4 minute read
Back to basics Improving plant survivability with proper planting
Back to basics
Improving plant survivability with proper planting procedures
by Timothy Daly
Many factors need consideration when installing trees and shrubs to ensure that they will grow and prosper. With inflation, plant costs have increased, so increasing their ability to survive in the landscape is essential.
Landscape professionals are well versed in proper planting, selection and installation methods, but it never hurts to be reminded of the basics, or to educate homeowners on proper procedures.
Make good choices
When choosing plant material, make sure it can tolerate site conditions. Take into consideration sunlight and water requirements. Azaleas prefer part shade, whereas junipers need full sun. Are the plants adapted to our climate? Alberta spruces decline and perish in our weather because they cannot tolerate our heat. They thrive in Alberta, but not Georgia. Check the drainage. Does the soil stay waterlogged? Most landscape plants are unable to grow in soils that stay wet continually but some plants, such as willows and red maples, do well in wet soils.
Before purchasing, check the plant material’s quality and buy fresh and high-quality plants. Most landscape plants are sold in containers, although some are field grown and balled-and-burlapped. Container plants should have healthy, vigorously growing stems and leaves and have white feeder roots on the outer edge. Also, avoid plants whose roots have grown tightly around the rootball and are compacted. The plants should not be wilting, have insect or disease infestations or weeds growing out of the medium.
Some plants, by their nature, are problematic. For instance, Bradford pears (soon to be banned in South Carolina) grow rapidly and have weak wood, making them more susceptible to branches and sections of the trees breaking and falling. Scale insects heavily infest certain euonymus shrubs. Avoid planting these since they will eventually have to be removed.
Plant it right
If your plant material cannot be installed immediately, place it in a shaded area and keep it moist. For balledand-burlapped or bare-root plants, add some sawdust, pine bark, or pine straw to conserve moisture. Avoid placing the roots in water for long periods, which will cause them to suffocate.
An old saying goes, “never put a $10 tree into a $2 hole.” Research at the University of Georgia has shown that the planting hole needs to be two to three times the diameter of the rootball and no deeper than the rootball’s top, keeping the top level with the soil surface. Sometimes having the top of the rootball an inch above the grade is beneficial since, in many cases, the soil will settle. Research has shown adding organic amendments, such as peat moss, topsoil, or compost, to the planting hole is not required. It can act like a sponge, absorbing excess water and drowning the roots. Just fill in the hole with the soil that has been removed. Tap it in thoroughly to remove air pockets and apply water. Keeping the roots adequately moist but not soggy is essential. Avoid placing any fertilizers in the planting holes since they can cause burn to the roots. Wait until the plants have been established before fertilizing. Remove any wires, string, or twine wrapped around the base of the trunk to prevent girdling. Although trees and shrubs can be planted any time of the year, the fall and winter months are the best. As the weather gets colder, the top parts of the plants will slow their growth but the roots, being insulated by the soil, will continue to grow. Thus, the plant is better established by the following summer and is more resistant to hot weather and dry conditions.
Many years ago, a common practice in plant installation was forming a small ring two to three inches high along the perimeter of the planting hole to direct the water to the roots. However, research has indicated that building the small berm is unnecessary since thoroughly applying water to the planting is just as effective.
Finishing touches
After planting, apply a two-to-four-inch layer of a finetextured organic mulch such as pine straw, pine bark, or cypress mulch. Doing so will help keep the soil from drying out, reduces weeds, and increases the aesthetics of the planting. Pull the mulch back a couple of inches from the trunk. Do not apply excessive amounts of it around the plants, which could smother the roots and lead to rot. Staking may be necessary for young trees. Trees with a diameter of one inch and a height of four feet or more require staking or guy wires to hold them in place to decrease the likelihood of the tree being blown over and uprooted in windstorms. Place three stakes in the ground around the tree at three equidistant points and hammer in until three inches of the stake remain above ground. Secure the tree to the stakes with 12-gauge guying wire. Attached it above the lowest branches and place the wire in a piece of an old garden hose or rubber tube to prevent bark injury. Allow for some slack so the tree can move in the wind. Research has shown some movement helps grow a more robust root system. Remove the wires a few months after planting when the roots have taken hold to prevent the girdling of the branches.
Ensuring success
Properly installing plants will improve their ability to survive and flourish and save money in the long run. Doing so will allow them to remain healthy and attractive in the landscape.
About the author
Timothy Daly is an Agricultural and Natural Resources Extension Agent with the University of Georgia in Henry County.
P: 770.288.8421 C: 470.656.8651 E: tdaly@uga.edu