Georgina Davies
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
CONTENTS JODHPUR DEVELOPMENT
JODHPUR PATTERN DEVELOPMENT.................................................................................2 FIRST TROUSER TOILE................................................................................................2 PATTERN AMENDMENTS..............................................................................................3 SECOND TROUSER TOILE.............................................................................................3 FINAL STYLING CHOICE..............................................................................................4 PLEATED DETAIL EXPERIMENTATION................................................................................4 PATTERN AMENDMENTS..............................................................................................5 THIRD TOILE...........................................................................................................5 TOILE CRITIQUE.......................................................................................................6 PATTERN AMENDMENTS..............................................................................................6 FINAL PATTERN PIECES...............................................................................................7
MANUFACTURING SPECIFICATION.................................................................................28 SAMPLE SIZE SPECIFICATION.......................................................................................29 COSTING..............................................................................................................30
SLEEVELESS SHIRT DEVELOPMENT
PATTERN DEVELOPMENT............................................................................................31 INITIAL TOILE........................................................................................................31 PATTERN AMENDMENTS.............................................................................................32 SECOND TOILE.......................................................................................................32 REFITTING INITIAL TOILE...........................................................................................33 PATTERN AMENDMENTS.............................................................................................33 THIRD TOILE..........................................................................................................34 PATTERN AMENDMENTS.............................................................................................34 TOILE CRITIQUE......................................................................................................35 JODHPUR SPECIFICATIONS DESIGN SPECIFICATION...............................................................................................8 PATTERN AMENDMENTS.............................................................................................35 MANUFACTURING SPECIFICATION...................................................................................9 MANUFACTURING SAMPLES.........................................................................................36 SAMPLE SIZE SPECIFICATION.......................................................................................10 FABRIC DYEING.......................................................................................................37 COSTING..............................................................................................................11 FINAL PATTERN PIECES..............................................................................................38
CAPE DEVELOPMENT
SLEEVELESS SHIRT SPECIFICATIONS
PATTERN DEVELOPMENT............................................................................................12 INITIALTOILE.........................................................................................................12 PATTERN ADJUSTMENTS............................................................................................13 SECOND TOILE.......................................................................................................14 TOILE CRITIQUE......................................................................................................14 INTERNAL BINDING..................................................................................................14 FUSING................................................................................................................15 PRICK STITCHING....................................................................................................15 HEM FINISHING.......................................................................................................16 FINAL PATTERN PIECES..............................................................................................17
DESIGN SPECIFICATION.............................................................................................39 MANUFACTURING SPECIFICATION.................................................................................40 SAMPLE SIZE SPECIFICATION.......................................................................................41 GRADED SIZE SPECIFICATION......................................................................................42 COSTING..............................................................................................................43
SHIRT DEVELOPMENT
SHORTS SPECIFICATIONS
SHORTS DEVELOPMENT
PATTERN DEVELOPMENT............................................................................................44 FIRSTTOILE...........................................................................................................44 DEVELOPING POCKETS..............................................................................................45 SECOND TOILE.......................................................................................................45 FACINGS...............................................................................................................46 CAPE SPECIFICATIONS DESIGN SPECIFICATION.............................................................................................18 TOILE CRITIQUE......................................................................................................46 MANUFACTURING SPECIFICATION.................................................................................19 MANUFACTURING SAMPLES.........................................................................................47 SAMPLE SIZE SPECIFICATION.......................................................................................20 JETTED POCKET......................................................................................................48 COSTING..............................................................................................................21 FINAL PATTERN PIECES..............................................................................................49
BLOCK DEVELOPMENT...............................................................................................22 INITIALTOILE.........................................................................................................22 PATTERN AMENDMENTS.............................................................................................23 SECOND TOILE.......................................................................................................24 TOILE CRITIQUE......................................................................................................24 MANUFACTURING SAMPLES.........................................................................................25 FINAL PATTERN PIECES..............................................................................................26
SHIRT SPECIFICATIONS
DESIGN SPECIFICATION.............................................................................................27
DESIGN SPECIFICATION.............................................................................................50 MANUFACTURING SPECIFICATION.................................................................................51 SAMPLE SIZE SPECIFICATION.......................................................................................52 COSTING..............................................................................................................53 ESTIMATED COSTINGS FOR FULL RANGE.........................................................................54 PRODUCT EVALUATIONS............................................................................................64
JODHPUR DEVELOPMENT
JODHPUR PATTERN DEVELOPMENT
The pattern for the slim fit jodhpurs was started using the college Slim Fit Trouser block. This was traced and then the legs were slimmed down from the knee through to the ankle. The front ankle was slimmed down by 5cm and the back ankle was slimmed by 7cm this was tapered up to the knee.
FIRST TROUSER TOILE
Adjustments on toile .....
Extra fabric was pinned out of side seams and front and back of the leg to achieve the slim look which is wanted Ankle had to be slit to be able for model to get her foot through the trousers so an extra 3cm will be added to the circumference of the ankle Nothing was taken off the hip to achieve the slight jodphur shaping which is desired
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PATTERN AMENDMENTS
A
SECOND TROUSER TOILE
B
Following on from the first trouser toile the changes were made. The main change was to slim down the leg further. This toile therefore features two different legs which have both been slimmed down but in different ways. For both variations the front leg has been slimmed down in at the side seam but the back legs are different. In leg A half of the amount which needs to be lost as been taken out at the side seam and the other half has been taken out in a dart which runs down the back of the leg. In leg B the amount has been taken completely out of the side seams.
A
B
Adjustments on toile .....
A
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B
A
The fit of each leg was assessed while on the model and it was decided that both aesthetically and fit wise leg A is the one which will be moved forward. During the fitting it was found that more needs to be taken out of the legs specifically around the knee area. This will be taken out both at the side seams and in the dart.
FINAL STYLING CHOICE
PLEATED DETAIL EXPERIMENTATION
The initial pattern development for this style has focused on creating the basic silhouette rather than focusing on details. Now that the basic silhouette has been decided the details can be worked upon. These are the knee panels, ankle button detail and pleated waistband detail.
Large Box Pleats
Gathered
Small Box Pleats In order to decide on the style of pleat to be used on the trousers, three examples have been pinned on the stand.
Small Box Pleats..... Pattern cutting these details.....
The knee panel detail will be drafted onto the correctly fitted patterns. This will be traced off and made into a panel In order to incorporate the button detail into the trouser leg it will drafted onto the side seam of the back trouser. This means that it will fasten onto the front leg The pleated detail will intially be mocked up on the stand in order to decide the size of the pleats. This will then be transferred to paper
Box pleats are the most successful way of creating the detail although these smaller ones are too small once translated into a heavier fabric such as the velvet.
Large Box Pleats.....
These box pleats are the most successful. This larger size would translate really well into velvet and create the effect which is wanted.
Gathered.....
This is the least successful method of creating the waistband detail. The gathers create a look which is too fussy and would be bulky when in velvet.
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PATTERN AMENDMENTS
THIRD TOILE This toile has been made in a cotton velvet which is very similar to the fabric which will be used for the final piece. This means that a true fit can be ascertained for the toile. This toile is very successful and the fit is perfect for the style . The knee panels, which have only been drafted onto this toile, are in the correct place and are the correct size.
Adjustments on toile ..... The pattern amendments following the second toile can be seen on the diagram above. The heavy line is the previous pattern with amendments shown in a dashed line. The main amendment is adding the knee panels . These were drafted onto the leg and then traced off, the slight shaping in the centre of the panel was taken off of the other side of the trouser leg at the knee. A little extra shaping was also added to the hips to create a more jodhpur shape. Following the decision to use the back leg dart shaping it has been amalgamated into the back waist dart creating one long dart running to the knee.
The only adjustment which will be made from this toile is to make the pleated detail at the waistband shorter. It is currently 8cm tall and it will be reduced by half. At 8cm it is too large and does not sit properly at a shorter length it will be less over the top.
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TOILE CRITIQUE
PATTERN AMENDMENTS
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Adjustments following toile critique.....
Add more into the hip area in order to create a more stylised jodhpur shape Understitch facing to make the pleating detail stand up Check waist measurement isn’t too small by measuring stand and model and adjusting accordingly
In order to get a better jodhpur shape on the hip a refit has been done. The third toile has had some extra fabric added at the hip and the new shape has been pinned while on the model. 2cm has been added at the back at the widest point and 2.5cm has been added at the front. This should give a better shape without being to full. While this fitting was carried out the waist measurement was assessed. This size fits the model well, being tight but not uncomfortable.
FINAL PATTERN PIECES
Actual final patterns available in Appendix 1
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JODHPUR SPECIFICATIONS
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isle
BRITISH TO THE CORE
MAIN FABRIC 100% COTTON CONTRAST FABRIC 100% COTTON
MADE IN THE UK
MACHINE WASHABLE AT 40 DEGREES COOL IRON ON REVERSE
TR/021/011 AW11
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COSTING LAYPLAN FOR COTTON VELVET Full length - 5m 46cm Usage Percentage - 69.54% Layplan for four pairs of Jodhpurs
Using the layplans for accurate fabric ratings and taking trim ratings from the finished sample an accurate materials cost price has been achieved. This has then been added to an estimated labour cost working on a sample machinists average charge of ÂŁ17/hr. This total make cost has the been multiplied by 2 to get the wholesale price which has been in turn multiplied by 2.7 to achieve the RRP.
...11 LAYPLAN FOR ENGRAVED COTTON VELVET Full length - 0m 50cm Usage Percentage - 59.79% Layplan for eight pairs of Jodphurs
CAPE DEVELOPMENT
PATTERN DEVELOPMENT
INITIAL TOILE
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The basic cape pattern was made up into a toile and fitted on the model. The basic shape fits nicely but there are a few changes which will be made.
In order to develop the cape a basic cape shape was made to fit on the model to assess fit. The cape shape was developed using the basic bodice an sleeve blocks. The front bodice was traced around and the shoulder dart was half pivoted into the arm hole and half into the waist dart. This was so there is a clean should to work with. Once the dart had been moved the centre of the sleeve was placed against the corner point and swung out until the angle wanted was got to. The half sleeve was then traced around. The neckline was also lowered by 1.2cm at the centre front neck and by 1cm at the neck point. This so that the neck is not too tight. The back cape development was very similar. The small shoulder dart was pivoted into the armhole to match the front and then the sleeve was grown on at a similar angle to the front bodice. The neckline was lowered at the neck point by 1cm to match the front but not lowered at the centre back. The collar was developed by measuring the neck from centre back to centre front and then squaring up by 14cm for the height. In order for the collar to sit close to the neck at the front it was slashed into and curved to add some shaping.
Adjustments on toile.....
One of the main changes is to slim the silhouette down slightly to create a more tailored and less full look. The collar also needs to shortened considerably in order to fit underneath the wearers chin. The cape has been designed as outerwear to be worn over tops and dresses and so can’t be too tight around the neck. Therefore the neckline is going to be lowered and loosened so that it can easily be worn over other garments.
PATTERN ADJUSTMENTS
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The pattern adjustments were done using the toile as reference. As can be seen here the new neckline, panel shapes and amount of flare taken out were drawn on. This was then transferred to the pattern. The first adjustment to be made was shortening the front of the cape to match the back because it was too long. This was carried out by matching the neck point of the front and back panels and tracing the length and shaping from the back piece to the front. The length was also redrawn around the side panels so that an even length is carried around the cape. The flare which needed to be taken out was transferred to the pattern by taking measurements at 4cm increments and then taking that amount off the side seam. The new style lines for the panels have also been drawn onto the toile. This has been transferred to the pattern by measuring the size of the panels and drawing them on.
SECOND TOILE
TOILE CRITIQUE
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Adjustments following toile critique.....
Investigate and sample seam binding to see if it will work in the Marrakech silk or if it needs to be done in cotton The button fastening is also going to be made concealed so that it does not detract from the metal embroidery on the neck Remove the side seam on the collar so that it is all cut in one piece Sample prick stitching the seams to see if this would work well
INTERNAL BINDING All the internal seams of the cape are to be bound. This is because the cape is unlined and overlocked edges would not be appropriate for the market level the cape is being aimed at. The initial idea was to bind the seams in the Marrakech silk but following the sample below it was decided this would make the seams too stiff. Therefore the striped cotton will be used and different widths of binding have been sampled.
1cm wide binding.....
This binding is too wide for the purpose. This would stiffen the seam allowance too much and would cause the shape of the cape to change and become less draped.
0.5cm wide binding..... Following the adjustments which have been made a second toile has been constructed. Instead of being made in calico this has been made in a medium weight wool which is similar in properties to the final fabric. This means that the shape can be better assessed. The shape in this toile is just the right amount of flare because quite a fitted shape is wanted. Facings have also been added in order to see how these would work. In the final piece fusing will be applied to these in order to get a crisp edge. Fusing will also be added to the collar in order to give it some support once the metal embroidery is added.
This binding has the opposite problem it is slightly too thin. This would only bind half of the exposed seam allowance which would not show enough of the red fabric as is wanted.
0.7cm wide binding.....
This width is in between the other two and is perfect for the binding of the seams. This width covers just enough of the seam allowance to make the coloured cotton a big feature without stiffening the seams
FUSING Two types of fusing are to be used within the cape. One for the collar to support the embroidery and another in order to give some support to the button stand and facings.
PRICK STITCHING
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In order to give a level of subtle embellishment to the rest of the cape away from the collar embroidery it has been decided that the seams will be prick stitched. This detailing will also link to some of the more classic British tailored garments which have been used as inspiration. The prick stitching will be done in a tonal thread which matches the main fabric meaning that it is a subtle detail. The main choice is to decided what size prick stitching to use.
Long prick stitching..... Lightweight fusing for button stand and facings.....
The prick stitching on this sample is too long and looks more like a running stitch which would be used a tacking stitch in construction of a garment.
This is a lightweight knitted fusing which is to be used for the button stand and facings. Only a lightweight fusing is needed here because only a small amount of support is needed. This fusing keeps the suppleness of the base cloth intact while providing a little bit of stability.
Medium prick stitching.....
This sample is the most successful of the prick stitch samples. This medium length is large enough to be seen but not too large to be obvious.
Mediumweight fusing for collar.....
A heavier fusing is needed for the collar so that the metal embroidery is supported and the collar doesn’t flop with the weight. This cotton woven fusing is perfect for this because it gives stability but does not make the wool too stiff.
Short prick stitching.....
This prick stitching sample has been sewn onto a sample using the final seam allowance binding width. This part of the sample is successful but the prick stitching is slightly too small and is therefore too subtle.
HEM FINISHING
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The hem for the cape was initially going to be finished with a facing which would create a clean hem edge. This was carried out on the final piece but was not successful. This can be seen in the photograph. The facing stopped the cape from haing any drape and made the shape too stiff. New hem finished were therefore investigated.
Cotton binding and 1cm hem.....
Although this creates a really neat edge with would match the internal binding the addition of a layer of cotton makes the edge really stiff. This would not help with keeping the draped element fo the cape.
Wide self binding.....
It works really well having a self binding on this cape because it would create a cohesive look. This wide binding though makes the edge too stiff which would make the cape shaping strange.
Slim self binding......
Like the wide self binding this slimmer binding creates a cohesive look with the main body of the cape but it also stiffens the edge too much because of the added layers.
Overlocked and turned edge.....
This the only hem finish which doesn’t significantly stiffen the edge of the cape and will therefore be the one which will be used. The overlocking will be in a grey which matches the fabric and the turn up will 1cm. It will only be 1cm because the smaller the turn up is the less bulk will be created.
FINAL PATTERN PIECES
Actual final patterns available in Appendix 1
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CAPE SPECIFICATIONS
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isle
BRITISH TO THE CORE
MAIN FABRIC 100% WOOL BINDING 100% COTTON
MADE IN THE UK
DRY CLEAN ONLY MEDIUM HEAT IRON ON REVERSE OW/002/002 AW11
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COSTING LAYPLAN FOR WOOLLEN FLANNEL Full length - 4m 8cm Usage Percentage - 60.41% Layplan for four capes
Using the layplans for accurate fabric ratings and taking trim ratings from the finished sample an accurate materials cost price has been achieved. This has then been added to an estimated labour cost working on a sample machinists average charge of ÂŁ17/hr. This total make cost has the been multiplied by 2 to get the wholesale price which has been in turn multiplied by 2.7 to achieve the RRP.
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SHIRT DEVELOPMENT
BLOCK DEVELOPMENT
INITIAL TOILE
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An initial toile was made up using the drafted pattern. This has been fitted on the model in order to assess the fit.
Adjustments on toile.....
The starting point for the shirt was to draft a loose fitting bodice block from scratch. This is because it was easier than using the tight fitting college bodice blocks. Loose fitting waist shaping was added to the block in order to give the shirt some shape but not too much. A basic sleeve with an underarm seam was also drafted in order to assess the length and how it fits into the arm hole. The style lines for a front and back yoke were also drawn which will then be traced off into panels.
Overall the initial toile fits really nicely but a few changes will be made. A more relaxed fit is needed for the shirt so the darts will be let out slightly at the waist and the side seams will be filled in slightly. These changes will not be too drastic but just enough to give a more oversized look to the shirt. The sleeve will also be changed in order to be a more traditional shirt sleeve with the seam up the back. This will meet the back yoke seam. Other minor changes include reshaping the back hem and possibly the back yoke.
PATTERN AMENDMENTS
One of the main adjustments is to modify the straight sleeve with an underarm seam into a shirt sleeve with a seam at the back. In order to do this a style line was initially planned one the toile. This style line lines up with the back yoke seam so that a clean line is created. The new style line was then drafted onto the pattern in order to create the new seam. A new tracing was taken of the sleeve in which the old side seams were butted against each other leaving the new style line as the edge of the pattern. The new shape of the shirt was therefore made and then the length was extended by 4cm because when the sleeve was fitted it wasn’t long enough. In order for the sleeve to function as a shirt sleeve a under wrap placket was added to the right side of the pattern and an extra 1cm for turn under was added to the left. A new cuff was also drafted to fit the new sleeve measurements.
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The adjustments to be made on the front and back panels can be seen on the drawing above. The hard line shows the pattern which was used to make the initial toile and the dashed lines the changes which have been made. Not many changes have been made from the initial toile because the fit was good overall. The centre back shaping has been changed slightly so that it is not quite as pointed and the fit has been relaxed. The darts have been released by 0.5cm at the centre and the side seams of both the front and back have been in filled by 0.5cm. This adds an extra 2cm through the waist of the shirt.
SECOND TOILE
TOILE CRITIQUE Adjustments following toile critique.....
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Reshape dart on the front and back because it is currently too high at the bust point and the fit needs relaxing The fit also needs relaxing on the hips so extra will be added here. The side seam will therefore be swung out from 5cm below the waist. This should give a less fitted shape
This toile has been made up out of the amended pattern with a relaxed fit and the shirt sleeve. The fit of this toile has been assessed on the model in order to look at the changes which were made from the last toile. The more relaxed fit of this toile is the correct fit for the style and the shirt sleeve works really well. The collar shape has also been assessed and the styling of it works really well. The shirt is to be worn with an open neck so this size and shape of collar works really well. Overall the fit of this toile is correct for the styling of the final piece.
MANUFACTURING SAMPLES WASHING The silk which is to be used for the shirt is quite a structured woven fabric. The fabric comes from the mill unfinished which means that it is slightly too stiff for the end use. Therefore the silk will be washed in order to soften the weave.
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FUSING The silk which is being used for the shirt is quite structured and heavy. Although the look for the shirt is to be quite tailored it still wants a slightly used and floppy look rather than being too crisp and new. Therefore it needs to be decided whether to fuse areas or not.
Unwashed silk.....
This sample shows the unwashed silk as it comes from the mill. The stiff structured qualities can be seen in this sample and although a degree of structure is wanted for the shirt, this is too much.
Lightweight knitted fusing.....
The washed silk has been fused with a lightweight knitted fusing to see how it effects it properties. This fusing, although light, immediately stiffens the silk too much. It has therefore been decided to not use fusing within the shirt.
Washed silk.....
The silk was machine washed on a cold wash and spun in order to soften the weave. As can be seen this has made the silk more pliable and although structured it is not as stiff. This wiill suit the nature of the hsirt, keeping the look tailored but not too unsupple.
FINAL PATTERN PIECES
Actual final patterns available in Appendix 1
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SHIRT SPECIFICATIONS
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isle
BRITISH TO THE CORE
MAIN FABRIC 100% SILK CONTRAST FABRIC 100% COTTON
MADE IN THE UK
DRY CLEAN ONLY COOL IRON ON REVERSE
SH/010/009 AW11
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COSTING LAYPLAN FOR MOROCCAN SILK Full length - 4m 95cm Usage Percentage - 75.44% Layplan for four shirts
Using the layplans for accurate fabric ratings and taking trim ratings from the finished sample an accurate materials cost price has been achieved. This has then been added to an estimated labour cost working on a sample machinists average charge of ÂŁ17/hr. This total make cost has the been multiplied by 2 to get the wholesale price which has been in turn multiplied by 2.7 to achieve the RRP.
...30 LAYPLAN FOR STRIPED COTTON Full length - 0m 79cm Usage Percentage - 70.26% Layplan for four shirts
SLEEVELESS SHIRT DEVELOPMENT
PATTERN DEVELOPMENT
INITIAL TOILE
The sleeveless shirt pattern was begun using the same block as the basic shirt. This is because the basic shirt has a good fit and so it would be a good starting point. In order to make this block a sleeveless shirt the arm hole was lowered, the shoulder dart was pivoted into the waist and the shoulder was shortened by a 1.5cm on the back and front. This changed block was then made up as a toile in order to assess the fit on a model.
The initial toile was fitted on the model to assess the way that it fits.
Adjustments on toile.....
Various alterations were made while the model was wearing to make the shape more fitted. The side seams were pinned in order to give the shape more of a waist, the distance between should and bust point was shortened and the arm hole was made smaller by pinning a dart from there to the bust point. A small amount was also taken out of the back to shorten the back armhole and top of the back. The neckline is also going to be brought up by 1.5cm so that it is not too plunged.
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PATTERN AMENDMENTS
SECOND TOILE
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The second toile has been constructed using the adjusted patterns from the initial toile. The fit of this toile is not correct though. Too much has been taken out of the bust and the front armhole and not enough has been taken out of the back. Also the side seam is twisting strangely. The back side seam is fitted but the front one is too straight. The whole fit needs reassessing.
Adjustments on toile..... Following the fitting of the first toile the patterns have been amended. A lot of extra fabric was pinned out of the first toile which has been translated to the pattern through folding out and slashing. The fold lines which were created can be seen using the large dashed line on the diagram above. This folding out and slashing has created a large swung shape to the front panel. The side seam has been redrawn (light dashed line) loosing the extra length which was added into the hem by slashing. The dart has also been redrafted. The changes to the back panel are easier because only 1.5cm has been pinched out through the back armhole and centre back. This shortens the armhole and back length.
Instead of adjusting this toile the initial will be refitted and adjustments will be made off of that refit. This toile has too many issues and actually fits worse than the initial toile.
REFITTING INITIAL TOILE
PATTERN AMENDMENTS
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The refitting of the initial toile was needed because the first fitting was not successful. The initial fitting can be seen on these images drawn in blue and the refitting has been pinned.
Adjustments on toile.....
Length will still be taken out of the back shoulder although a very small amount will be taken out of the front armhole because last time to much shortened the armhole too much. Much more will be taken out of the front side seam in order to create a more fitted shape and some will be taken out of the back. The neckline will also be brought up slightly so that it is not too plunging.
This diagram shows the amendments made following the refitting of the initial toile. The only element which has remained the same from the first fitting is the 1.5cm which has been taken out of the back armhole and centre back. The front has been fitted very differently though. The top of the dart has been dropped by 1.5cm and the side seam has been reshaped. 2cm has been taken out of the armhole which tapers to 1cm at the hem. The side seam of the back has also been reshaped, with 1.5cm being removed from the armhole tapering to nothing just below the waist.
THIRD TOILE
PATTERN AMENDMENTS
Adjustments on toile.....
This third toile has been made in a shirting fabric which is more similar to the final fabric than calico in order to see how it fits. The pattern which has been used is the one following the second fitting of the initial toile. The main problem with this toile is that it has now become too fitted. The overall shape which is wanted is a semi fitted straight waisted shirt and so the fit of this toile will be relaxed. The depth of the neckline is now at the right length though so this has been achieved on this toile.
The changes made after the third toile can be seen above. The hard line shows the previous pattern and the dashed line shows the changes which have been made. The darts have both been relaxed by 0.5cm at the centre which will create a more relaxed look. The back has been lengthened by 2cm at the hem and the side seam has been swung out by 1,5cm in order to stop the hips being to tight. The front has been straightened at the side seam to stop the twisting which had happened. The front has also been lengthened by 2cm at the hem. The collar has also been drafted by measuring the neckline and drawing a rectangle this length and 3cm high. It was then slashed and curved from the shoulder through to the front. The facing has been drafted by tracing a style off of the front pattern.
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TOILE CRITIQUE
PATTERN AMENDMENTS
The toile critique for this shirt threw up a few fit issues, mainly due to the fit being too tight in places and loose in others. The main issue is with the osition of the darts so these are going to be replaced in a fitting in order to get them at the right height and size.
Adjustments on toile.....
This toile was made up without darts so that it could be refitted on the stand. This is because at toile critique it was decided that the darts would be moved. New darts were pinned at the front and back. These are much shorter and not as high as the previous ones. 1.5cm has also been taken out of the centre front at the hem which has been graduated to nothing at the neck line. The side seam has also been realigned by taking some of the back panel away and adding it to the front panel. This has been drawn on the side view above.
Again the dashed line shows the changes on this diagram and the hard lines shows the previous pattern. The main chage here is that the new darts have been drafted onto the pattern. Also inorder to change the balance of the two pieces the front has had 1cm taken away at the centre front and the back has had 1cm added. This will hopefully make the shirt sit better and not twist on the body. The side seams have also been changed at the hip to shift the balance which was decided on the toile at toile critique.
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MANUFACTURING SAMPLES BINDING The armholes and neckline of the sleeveless shirt will be bound in order to finish the edges. This will create a neat edge as well as a design feature. The binding needs to be both functional and aesthetic. Therefore different widths were sampled.
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FUSING Fusing will be used in the collar of the sleeveless shirt and also at the neckline in order to support the embroidery. A lightweight fusing is all that is needed because otherwise it will make the cotton too stiff.
1.3cm binding.....
This binding is functional because it covers the edges and stops them fraying but it too wide to aesthetically pleasing on the shirt. This size binding would not be able to curved round the tight neckline curve neatly and so it will not be used.
Lightweight knitted fusing.....
This is the fusing which will be used on the sleeveless blouse. This knitted fusible adds slight stability to the cotton but not too much, This means it will not stiffen the neckline too much and the collar will have a soft nature to it rather than being hard.
0.5cm binding.....
This slimmer binding is much more successful. The tinner width means that it will fit round the neckline curve more easily and it finishes the edge quite unobtrusively. Even though it is thinner and therefore less obvious it will mean that the main focus of the shirt is on the neckline embroidery.
FABRIC DYEING
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The striped cotton for the Sleeveless Blouse has been ordered from Acorn Shirtings in white, therefore it needs to be dyed to the Medina Ceramic colour. The fabric is 100% cotton so it will take colour well. Dylon dyes will be used to dye the fabric but because none of their colours are right for the Medina Ceramic colour samples have been carried out using different dye recipes. 14 recipes were sampled and the evidence is documented below.
FINAL PATTERN PIECES
Actual final patterns available in Appendix 1
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SLEEVELESS SHIRT SPECIFICATIONS
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isle
BRITISH TO THE CORE
MAIN FABRIC 100% COTTON
MADE IN THE UK
MACHINE WASHABLE 4O DEGREES LINE DRY HIGH HEAT IRON ON REVERSE SH/009/008 AW11
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COSTING LAYPLAN FOR STRIPED COTTON Full length - 4m 47cm Usage Percentage - 66.23% Layplan for four shirts
Using the layplans for accurate fabric ratings and taking trim ratings from the finished sample an accurate materials cost price has been achieved. This has then been added to an estimated labour cost working on a sample machinists average charge of ÂŁ17/hr. This total make cost has the been multiplied by 2 to get the wholesale price which has been in turn multiplied by 2.7 to achieve the RRP.
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SHORTS DEVELOPMENT
PATTERN DEVELOPMENT
FIRST TOILE
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The starting point for the shorts was the college basic trouser block. The top of this was traced around until short length was drawn and then style lines were planned onto the tracing. The waist line was lowered by 2cm so that the shorts aren’t sitting right on the wearers waist. On both the front and back block there are two darts. These were amalgamated into one which then formed the edge of the panelling detail. This basic pattern was then made up into a toile to assess the fit of the pattern on a model.
The initial toile was very successful. The fit of the shorts is perfect and the only change which needs to be made is the length of the short. Within the initial toile the pocket and fastening detail has not been realised. A basic under short has been placed underneath top short. This is not how the final short will be because pockets are to be added into the curved detail.
DEVELOPING POCKETS
SECOND TOILE
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The fit of the shorts was assessed in the first toile and deemed good so no pattern changes had to made for fit. What did need to be developed was the pockets though. The back pocket was relatively straight forward because it is just a jetted pocket.
Front Pocket.....
Jetted Pocket.....
The style lines for the curved opening and pocket bag were drafted onto the fitted pattern which can be seen drawn in a dashed line above. These pieces were then traced off to form the panels which form the pocket. The panelled under short pieces now form part of the pocket bag sewing onto the pocket bag which has been drafted above.
In order to draft the jets a rectangle was drawn 1.5cm deep and 13cm long. This same pattern piece will also be used for the pocket facing on the lower pocket bag. The pocket bag was drawn onto the fitted pattern pieces so that it matches with the waistband. A 2cm seam allowance has been added to the pocket bag sides so that the jetted pocket construction can be fully hidden when the pocket edges are bound.
This toile is the same fit as the first one but includes the pockets on the front sand back. The back pocket is just a simple jetted pocket. The placement for this was drawn on the first toile and transferred to the patterns. Only one jetted pocket has been included on the toile but in the final piece there would be one on the other side as well. The front pockets have been included in the front curved fastening. The new fastening works well and the pockets are the correct size to be functional. In the same way as the first toile the length of the shorts has been decided on the toile. This will be drafted onto the patterns and will be incorporated in a decorative turnup.
TOILE CRITIQUE
FACINGS
Front Opening Facing
Back Waistband Facing
The facings have been drafted by purely drawing them onto the pattern pieces they are facings for. This can be seen on the diagrams above shown with a dashed line. The depth of the back waistband and front waistband match at the side seams so that they can be sewn together. The side of the front opening facing and the edge of the front facing also match to be sewn together.
Front Waistband Facing
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Adjustments following toile critique..... The general fit of the shorts is good there are just a few minor changes which are needed to be made. The level at the top of the shorts needs changing so that it runs straight around the body. Therefore the shorts will be raised at the centre back my 1.5cm and this will be swept round to the side seam. This should create a straighter waistline. The overlap on the fastening will also be extended so that the shorts fasten more easily. The overlap will also be made straight instead of having a curved shape edge, this means that the fastening will sit better and is less likely to pull open.
MANUFACTURING SAMPLES FUSING A lightweight fusing is needed for a few places in the tailored shorts. The areas to be fused are the facings and the curved edge of the pocket. The facings will be fused in order to give stability to the edge of the shorts and the curved edge will be fused so that it does not stretch during making.
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PRICK STITCHING In order to tie the shorts into the range using details as well as the buttons it has been decided that the curved opening/pocket edge will be prick stitched to match the cape. This will also be a nod towards some of the tailored pieces which have inspired the range.
This sample shows the prick stitching which will be used on the shorts. This will be of a medium length and stitched in a tonal colour which blends with the navy of the shorts. The sample also shows how the internal seams of the shorts will be finished which is overlocked and pressed flat.
This lightweight knitted fusible is to be used because it keeps the suppleness of the fabric intact while giving enough support to buttonholes and garment edges. This means that the fabric does not become too stiff.
BINDING
The edges of the internal facings of these shorts will be bound using the Moroccan silk. Although this creates quite a stiff edge because these edges do not alter the fit of the garment it is ok. The striped cotton will be used to bind the pocket edges though because these edges do not want to be too stiff.
JETTED POCKET
The jetted pocket was sampled before producing the final piece in order to check that the patterns worked. The main issue with this pocket was ensuring that all the construction of the jets would be hidden. The shorts are unlined so a clean internal finish had to be maintained. Therefore the pocket bags were cut to cover all the construction and extend up to the waistband. On the final piece the edges of this pocket will also be bound ensuring that the final finish is neat.
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FINAL PATTERN PIECES
Actual final patterns available in Appendix 1
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SHORTS SPECIFICATIONS
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isle
BRITISH TO THE CORE
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isle
BRITISH TO THE CORE
MAIN FABRIC 97% WOOL 3% CASHMERE WAIST BINDING 100% SILK POCKET BINDING 100% SILK MADE IN THE UK
DRY CLEAN ONLY COOL IRON ON REVERSE
ST/016/011 AW11
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COSTING LAYPLAN FOR SHADOW HERRINGBONE Full length - 2m 79cm Usage Percentage - 82.21% Layplan for four pairs of shorts
Using the layplans for accurate fabric ratings and taking trim ratings from the finished sample an accurate materials cost price has been achieved. This has then been added to an estimated labour cost working on a sample machinists average charge of ÂŁ17/hr. This total make cost has the been multiplied by 2 to get the wholesale price which has been in turn multiplied by 2.7 to achieve the RRP.
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ESTIMATED COSTINGS FOR FULL RANGE
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The costing for this coat has been carried out slightly differently. This is because at a 2.7 markup from wholesale to RRP the price was too expensive for the range. The mark up has therefore been changed to 2x. This means the RRP fits into the range better.
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PRODUCT EVALUATION
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KENITRA SILK SHIRT This shirt was all about being a simple shape which would support the patterned fabric well. In such a bold pattern and colourway it did not want to be something which is too complicated. The weight of the fabric means that the shirt can either be worn as a shirt or also works really well as a lightweight jacket. This versatility is a key part of its appeal within a range which is all about layering. The fit and comfort of the shirt was tested on the model at the photoshoot. She was a size 10 which is the sample size the shirt was made for and it fitted her perfectly. The fit is supposed to be oversized to enable layering and this fitted well on her. The shirt wasn’t too big across the shoulders but had the extra size needed through the waist and across the hips. The shirt fastens with six buttons from the bust down to the hips which were tested when the model was wearing it. These buttons function well with the buttonholes being the correct size and the buttons being securely stitched on. The buttons on the shirt cuffs were also tested to see if they were functional and these are also the correct size and securely stitched. The sleeves were assessed on the model to check whether they were the correct length as well. The base of the sleeve hit the top of the models hand which because the shirt is an oversized fit is where it was supposed to. The overall styling of the shirt was also assessed while on the model, the yoke sizes work really well and the only thing that I would change is the back depth of the collar. This is because when worn folded down it has a tendency to roll up revealing the collar stand. Overall though the fit, styling and fabric of this shirt is really successful and looked good on the model.
RACHIDIA JODHPURS The fit of the jodhpurs is integral to their success, they need to be as slim as possible in the leg to contradict with the hip shaping. The shaping across the hip is exaggerated but doesn’t want to be too large and so it is a fine balance. This shaping was assessed on the model at the photoshoot. The legs were slim enough to have the correct shaping but the model still felt that they were comfortable. The hip shaping was just enough to look deliberate without becoming a costume. The waist of the jodhpurs is designed to be quite close fitting in order to create an hour glass shape in relation to the hip detail. The model felt that the waist although close fitting was comfortable and felt right for her size. The photoshoot fitting was also useful to assess the decorative elements of jodhpurs. The engraved waistband is just the right size to give enough of the pattern without it overwhelming the design. This is also true of the pleated detail. This could of been one detail too many but it actually looks quite subtle and softens the waist edge of the jodhpurs which could otherwise look too harsh. The knee panel detail is subtle but it is a nice reference to the initial inspiration. Another reference is the button detail on the ankle which is both functional and decorative. The model found that in order to put the trousers on the bottom button had to be undone otherwise the ankle was too tight to put over foot. Once on though all the buttons could be successfully fastened to create the slim ankle. For the shoot the bottom button was undone so that the trousers would fall over the boot. Overall the jodhpurs work really well. They fitted the model perfectly, being tight where need be and shaped over the hips nicely. The leg length was correct and all the decorative details looked good.
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IFRANE SLEEVELESS SHIRT The sleeveless shirt is a simple straight fit with a scoop neckline and mandarin collar. The fit of this on the model was good. It was not too fitted in any areas and was oversized enough to create a bit of volume. The worry with the scooped neckline was that it would be too low but after seeing it on the model it is the correct depth. The overall fit of the shirt is what was wanted, with it skimming the wearers body instead of being fitted to it. This works really well within the range because it will tuck well into the shorts, trousers and skirts in order to create the layered look which is desired. The embroidery was designed to be obvious but not too over the top. This is because a subtle look was wanted and also from a practical point it would of made the front of the shirt too heavy. Aesthetically once on the model the embroidery looks really good. The copper tones really well with the red coloured cotton and when the model was moving in the shirt it has a subtle shine. This adds an element of interest without being too obvious. The size of the mandarin collar is perfect with it being just the right size to sit slightly up the wearers neck without being too tall. The bound edges at the neckline and arm holes finish the exposed edges nicely, creating a slight interest but keeping the lines of the garment clean. The shirt is therefore successful both aesthetically and fit wise. The model commented that it was very comfortable to wear and it was easy for her to put on just by pulling it over her head.
KACEM TAILORED SHORTS These shorts are a classic tailored shape with turn ups and jetted pockets. The front has a curved fastening which also creates pockets. This curved frontage is inspired by the fastenings of traditional breeches and forms a good place to showcase the copper inlaid horn buttons. The fit of these shorts is really nice. They are fitted but not too tight ensuring that a more casual look is created. They sit high on the models hips instead of being high waisted which is perfect because it is the other pair of shorts in the range which have the high waisted styling. The fastening functioned correctly when tested on the model and it was easy for her to do up herself. All the pockets were also tested for ease of use and size by the model and she found that they were all large enough to get a hand in and that the pocket bags were deep enough to use. The model felt comfortable in these shorts commenting that they were not too short, meaning they were still smart, and that also the leg wasn’t too fitted making them appropriate for smarter occasions. Aesthetically the shorts are successful. The front fastening is a nice detail which makes the most of the bespoke buttons. Although the shorts are quite simple the buttons and prick stitching tie them into the range making them an easy basic for putting with more intricate pieces in the range.
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AZILAL CAPE The cape is a semi fitted style with slight flare within its panels to stop it being too fitted. The main detailing comes from the embellished high collar and also the curved panels. The cape fastens with press studs and buttons across the shoulder. The fit and ease of wear was tested on the model and she found the cape easy to put on and do up herself with the only comment being that maybe the neck would be easier to do up if it was a little less tight. The four buttons running across the shoulder were easy to fasten. The overall fit of this piece was good. The shape worked really well and the length was just right, hitting the arm just below the elbow. Aesthetically I am very happy with how the cape looks. I think the curved panels fall across the body well and that just prick stitching their edges makes them more of a feature. The most successful part of the cape though is the embroidered collar. The copper washers and chain tone well on the grey flannel and the shine of metal against matt of wool is a nice juxtaposition. The collar is just the right height and fits well under the models chin without being too high or uncomfortable. The inside of the cape also looks good, with the contrast red bound seams making a nice feature. Overall the cape is a successful garment with fit being good and it fulfilling the design aesthetically as well.