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Swiss paradise Scenic Lake Geneva a place of staggering beauty, memorable adventures STORY BY JOANNE DIBONA • PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANNE AND TONY DIBONA
W
alking along with my guide, Gundela, through what was undoubtedly one of the most spectacular wine trails I have ever experienced, I had to wonder how, nearly a thousand years ago, the Lavaux terraced vineyards were planted on these dizzyingly steep slopes along Switzerland’s Lake Geneva.
“We are pretty certain the Romans planted the first grapes in this area, but our documentation only goes back to the 12th century, when monks settled here and began to cultivate the vineyards,” Gundela explained as we trekked along the 3-mile walking path through this UNESCO world heritage site. And it was no easy task for those enterprising monks. Because of the steep slopes, fortifying walls had to be laboriously constructed of stone, and they are still in exist-
ence — and doing their job — to this day. This was the first of many a magical moment experienced during a week’s visit to the Lake Geneva region of Switzerland. Getting there was a breeze, thanks to the efficient Swiss rail connections and a Swiss Travel Pass (available online for pre-purchase), which allows the bearer unlimited use of the country’s trains, buses and excursion boats, as well as entry to select museums. Within 30 minutes after my plane SEE LAKE GENEVA • E11
Astonishing natural beauty (below) surrounds the Lake Geneva Region of Switzerland. The painted sculptures in the southern portal of the Notre Dame Cathedral in Lausanne (top left) are a magnificent example of medieval art. The castle of Chillon (top right), built in the 12th century on a rocky island in Lake Geneva, is the most visited historic monument in Switzerland.
KINDERDIJK WINDMILLS A MUST-SEE IN NETHERLANDS For centuries, these landmarks have staved off lowland flooding BY JOHN MARSHALL KINDERDIJK, Netherlands
The windmills at Kinderdijk were built in the mid-1700s as a way to clear water from the low-lying landscape of the western Netherlands. Sometime in the 1950s, the millers and water board members started seeing visitors in sneakers carrying cameras. The Dutch embraced the visitors, and the Kinderdijk windmills have since become one of the country’s most popular tourist destinations while continuing to help manage the Netherlands’ ongoing fight to stay above water. There are some windmills north of Amsterdam that “were built for the tourists, but we’re a historical site where tourists come, so it’s the other way around,” said Kinderdijk communications manager Peter Paul Klapwijk. “Tourism is a means to uphold our site.” Kinderdijk, which translates to children’s dike, lies in the Alblasserwaard polder (land that’s been reclaimed from the sea, marshes or river flood plains) at the confluence of the Lek and Noord rivers. The village is in the
PETER DEJONG AP
A boat tour traverses Hooge Boezem van de Nederwaard canal and the windmills at the Unesco World Heritage site in Kinderdijk, Netherlands. western portion of the Netherlands, much of which is near or even below sea level. The lowlands have been prone to flooding through the ages despite the building of
canals and dikes, including the 1421 Saint Elisabeth’s flood that killed thousands after the dikes broke in several places. To stem the flooding, the Kinderdijk
windmills were built in 1738 and 1740 — two earlier than that — to move water from the lower areas to higher spots and into the river. Nineteen of the original 20 Kinderdijk windmills remain and were named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997. And what a sight they are. Lining the canals that zigzag between the two rivers, the windmills are a striking and iconic glimpse into Dutch history with a modern-day functionality. The windmills work in conjunction with pumping stations to move water from the lower-lying areas to higher ground and into the river. Of the 19 mills, 16 still have millers who live inside and maneuver the massive sails in the wind. For tourists, walkways lead from the visitor center to the mills, and boat tours are offered along the canals. Two mills serve as museums, filled with vintage millers’ items and photos with ladders to climb through and see the inner works. The mills also are functional, so be prepared to feel the entire building shake when the sails are whipping around in the wind. About 300,000 people buy tickets to visit the Kinderdijk windmills each year. About 500,000 more walk through the area without taking the tours.
Marshall writes for The Associated Press.
THE SAN DIEGO UNION-TRIBUNE
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SUNDAY • AUGUST 27, 2017
Baja calendar Tijuana: Feria de las Californias 2017: Through Sept. 17. The annual Tijuana Fair, at Morelo Park, features 24 days of food and drink, rides and games, concerts and dancing, numerous vendors and much more. More information: dondehayferia.com/feria-tijuana-2017 Rosarito: Baja Sand: Aug. 27. Ending today, the annual family friendly sand art festival also features live music, food and merchandise vendors, sports activities and a surf contest. Admission is free. More information: bajasand.org or facebook.com/Rosaritobajasand Rosarito: Sabor de Baja: 6 p.m. Aug. 30. The fifth annual culinary competition returns to the beachside gardens of the Rosarito Beach Hotel with creations by 25 Baja chefs, paired with Mexican wines and artisanal beers. Tickets $20-$85. More information: sabordebaja.com
Contented cows feast on fresh grass throughout the summer season, giving their milk (and resulting cheese) a distinctive and sublime flavor.
JOANNE AND TONY DIBONA PHOTOS
The charming city of Vevey is located directly on Lake Geneva’s shores.
LAKE GENEVA • Train ride circumnavigates waterway FROM E10 landed in Zurich, I was comfortably seated on an express train headed to my first destination, the town of Vevey, a trip of just under two hours. Despite my jet lag, I couldn’t resist staring out of the train window to savor endless views of verdant, cow-studded countryside and medieval villages and castles situated high above pristine lakes. However, the view that will always remain in my mind is when the train made its final pass through a long tunnel — and Lake Geneva emerged in all its glory. In what was definitely a “jaw-dropping” moment, I marveled at the vista that spread out in front of me as the train began to circumnavigate the lake. The azure blue water of the crescentshaped lake, surrounded by cragged Alpine peaks, sparkled in the afternoon sun. The train rolled past colorful villages, medieval towers, grand chalets and wooden farmhouses. Miles of terraced vineyards cascaded down steep slopes to the lake’s shore. Some of the world’s greatest artists, Hollywood stars, musicians and royalty chose to make this glorious region their home, and it was now very easy to understand why. I arrived in the charming city of Vevey, located directly on Lake Geneva’s shores, just in time for dinner in one of the many openair restaurants lining the town’s promenade. I dined on delicate fresh perch, one of 30-plus fish varieties that thrive in the lake’s pristine waters, paired with an outstanding local white wine. The lakeside promenade, resplendent with flowering gardens, statues and picturesque squares, was bustling with activity as strollers took advantage of the summer skies that stayed bright well past 10 p.m. The next morning, a visit to Chaplin’s World, one of the town’s most famous attractions, was on the itinerary. Located high in the hills above Vevey, the museum is housed in the mansion Charlie Chaplin inhabited with his large family for 25 years. Scattered throughout the museum, visitors can marvel at the humanlike wax figures created by the Grevin wax museum in Paris, which bring Chaplin, his family and personal friends such as Sophia Loren and Albert Einstein to life. Interactive displays document his many contributions to the arts. That afternoon, I stepped on board a passenger ferry for a delightfully scenic cruise past famous towns, such as the fashionable city of Montreux, home of the renowned international jazz festival. My destination was the castle of Chillon, a formidable edifice built in the 12th century on a rocky island in the lake, which is the most visited historic monument in Switzerland. A detailed brochure (as well as an audio guide) is available to lead visitors through the castle’s many chambers, bringing to life the history contained within its walls. Costumed knaves
Lausanne’s Rue de Bourg is lined with luxury brand stores and a variety of boutiques.
Delicate fresh perch is one of 30-plus fish varieties that thrive in Lake Geneva’s pristine waters. and wenches stroll through the castle, adding to the historical ambiance, and they are always happy to pose with visitors for a souvenir photo. Since my heart was set on visiting the Alpine regions of Switzerland (owing in no small part to watching countless reruns of “The Sound of Music” in my youth), I planned to spend the next two days in the mountains of the Paysd’Enhaut region, just an hour away by train. Half the fun was getting there. Holders of the Swiss rail pass also have access to “Golden Pass” narrow gauge scenic trains that run from Montreux into this region, many of which offer large panoramic windows to best enjoy the spectacular scenery. The train stopped right in front of my hotel, in the picturesque, historic town of Rougemont, an unspoiled village famous for its manycenturies-old chalets. Some of the highlights of this Alpine adventure included a visit to the charming village of Château-d’Oex, where I had the opportunity to take a decoupage class with a local artist. Not everyone is a candidate for this highly skilled art form, which demands a cutting precision that is beyond imaginable, but I did come home with one of the artist’s intricate creations to frame on my wall. Visitors to this region can also enjoy a variety of eco-tour options. Since
A wax figure of Charlie Chaplin greets visitors to Chaplin’s World museum. Located in the hills above Vevey, it is housed in the mansion Chaplin inhabited with his large family for 25 years. cheese is a Swiss institution, tours of artisanal cheese farms are quite popular. One can opt for a unique tour that brings visitors up to the top of a mountain, where a young couple and their children carry on a centuries-old family tradition of making the prized L’Etivaz cheese of this region. Their contented cows feast on fresh grass throughout the summer season, giving their milk (and resulting cheese) a distinctive and sublime flavor. The next day included another trek to the top of a
mountain, a tour of the Jardin des Monts gardens that produce all the organic herbs for the company’s exclusive line of beauty products. While strolling through the flowering terraced beds, I was thrilled to come across an Edelweiss flower nestled near a rock at the edge of a cliff. This Alpine flower is the national flower of Switzerland and only grows in the highest altitudes of the Alps. Needless to say, I took this as a very good omen and captured its rare beauty in many a souvenir photo. It was time to leave this
bucolic countryside early the next day, and I headed off to the cosmopolitan city of Lausanne. I made haste to discover as much of this historic city as possible in a 12-hour window of time. First and foremost, the 12th Century Notre Dame Cathedral in Lausanne is a must-see, as it is one of Europe’s finest Gothic buildings. The painted sculptures in the southern portal, created in the 13th century, are a magnificent example of medieval art. Lausanne’s town center is a delightful combination of the ancient and the trendy, and the afternoon was spent discovering its charms. Bohemian cafes and original boutiques can be found in the Quartier du Rôtillon, one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods. The 19th century Palais de Rumine, which houses a host of art and science displays, is an architectural wonder in its own right. Lausanne’s Olympic Museum and Park is also one of the city’s main attractions, featuring three levels of interactive displays and an impressive lakeside park. A paradise for window shopping, the Rue de Bourg is lined with luxury brand stores and a variety of boutiques. The Flon district, which formerly housed industrial warehouses, has become Lausanne’s trendy new hot spot and boasts restaurants, bars, clubs, exhibition spaces and even a sandy beach during the summer months. As the sun set over Lake Geneva, I took the opportunity to ride Lausanne’s fully automated metro rail system for quick and comfortable transport from the city center to the end station on the lake at Ouchy. As I strolled down the promenade, past children playing in the fountain pools, families feeding the ever-attentive swans and diners enjoying a late dinner and drinks, I said my goodbyes to Lake Geneva, with the promise I would return soon to this unforgettable Swiss paradise.
DiBona is a San Diego-based travel writer and photographer. See more of her photos and articles at www.getthepicturetravel.com
San Felipe: Ceviche Fest 2017: noon to 9 p.m. Sept. 2. On this day, San Felipe’s avenue “The Malecon” is the spot for locals and visitors to enjoy live music and a variety of ceviche dished up by regional chefs. More information: sanfelipe.com.mx/ featured-events-in-san-felipe
BEBETO MATTHEWS AP
Maná performs Sept. 9 in Tijuana. Tijuana: Maná: 9 p.m. Sept. 9. The Grammy Award-winning band from Guadalajara, Jalisco, performs Latin rock, pop and reggae music, and released the best selling Spanishlanguage rock album of all time, “¿Dónde Jugarán Los Niños?” Estadio Caliente, Boulevard Agua Caliente, Tijuana. tijuanaeventos.com Tijuana: Corto Creativo: Sept. 21-23. The 14th edition of the Festival and International Short Film Exhibition, “Corto Creativo UDCI,” features audiovisual projects by professionals and students from different schools and universities throughout Mexico. More information: filmfreeway.com Mexicali: Fiestas del Sol 2017: Sept. 29-Oct. 15. This annual familyfriendly fair attracts thousands of visitors who enjoy concerts in all genres of music, food and drink, craft exhibitions, mechanical games and more. More information: fiestasdelsol.com.mx Rosarito-Ensenada Bike Ride: Sept. 30. A serious and competitive ride for some, and a fun ride for most, the biannual Paseo Ciclista RosaritoEnsenada is a 50-mile ride starting in Rosarito, traveling along the Pacific coast and rural inland roads before the big finish and street fest in Ensenada. More information: rosaritoensenada.org Tijuana: Entijuanarte 2017: Oct. 6-8. The largest annual arts festival in northwest Mexico, Entijuanarte, brings music, theater, dance, film, art and literature to Tijuana’s Cultural Center (CECUT) Friday through Sunday. All of the festival’s activities are free and open to the public. Brace for crowds as some 80,000 attendees are expected. More information: fundacionentijuanarte.org
Events are subject to change or cancellation. Please confirm information with event organizer before booking your trip. To submit Baja events information, email at least two weeks in advance to cynthia. zanone@sduniontribune.com
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his week I’m starting with a sailing that really covers the Southern Caribbean and is aboard the brand new ms Koningsdam – a ship Shelley and I enjoyed in June in Norway. This ship is certainly larger than her sisters, but is easy to find your way around and has more entertainment and dining options. $1849 US pp is for our 11 night package departing December 9th, and includes roundtrip San Diego air, 1 night (4 star) hotel in Florida, 10 nights in a balcony stateroom (with a $50 pp onboard credit) and taxes. The great news is that CruisePlus has some very special added booking benefits (like larger onboard credits) on over 50 other Caribbean sailings – including holiday departures. We’d love to help make your winter Caribbean getaway the best - and with better value too! Fort Lauderdale – Aruba – Curacao – Bonaire – Dominican Republic – Bahamas – Fort Lauderdale
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17 nights – ms Westerdam – November 7, 2017 – 1 night (4 star hotel) in Fort Lauderdale – 16 night cruise (balcony stateroom) ASK – $50 US per person onboard credit ABOUT – Air from San Diego OTHER SHIPS & DATES! to Fort Lauderdale $ – Taxes 2349 us*
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18 nights – ms Noordam – November 17, 2017 – 2 nights hotel Sydney SIMILAR – 15 night cruise (balcony stateroom) DEALS ON – $250 US per person onboard credit 2 OTHER – 1 night in Auckland DEPARTURES! – Roundtrip San Diego air $ 3899 us* – Taxes
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