THE LONDON TO LIMA EDITION
CORDILLERA BLANCA, PERU
THE MAKERS OF LONDON TO LIMA WERE ON THE HUNT FOR THE PUREST WATER FOR THEIR GIN. THEIR SEARCH LED THEM TO A GLACIAL SPRING IN PERU’S CORDILLERA BLANCA.
FOUNDER’S
WELCOME
Hello, 2020! With the new year – and a new decade – well underway, we’re excited to kick things off with a delightful new gin, London to Lima. And what a way to do it! This exceptional spirit is only available in Australia through the Gin Society, and it’s our first foray into South American gins. London to Lima is the creation of British distiller Alex James and his Peruvian wife Karena, both of whom made the move – along with their two 20-litre copper pot stills – from London to Lima back in 2012. The gin is made with pisco, an iconic Peruvian grape spirit, 50% glacial water sourced from the Cordillera Blanca, and botanicals including Peruvian groundcherry and limón sutil. The end
OUR FEBRUARY GIN COMBINES PERUVIAN AND BRITISH SPIRIT TRADITIONS - A LONDON DRY STYLE MADE WITH LOCAL QUEBRANTA GRAPES.
result is a unique citrus-forward gin with notes of floral grape, mountain herbs and pink pepper spice. Keeping with our South American theme, we take you on a passage through Peru, from the mountainous majesty of Cordillera Blanca to the world-famous Machu Picchu and the startling desert drawings that are the Nazca Lines. We also round up some gins of note from South America in The Gin List and explore where to dine and drink Peruvian-style right here in Australia. Following what is often considered the season of excess, we learn about the growing zero and low-alcohol segment of the gin market. Plus, Gin Society member Joel Holt talks to us about his passion for gin and what tipples he’s currently enjoying. We hope you enjoy your first Gin Society drop of 2020. We always love hearing from our members, so drop us a line and let us know what you think on hello@ginsociety. com. Cheers,
Andrew Burge Founder, Gin Society
VISIT US AT WWW.GINSOCIETY.COM
Co
7 4 THE TIPPLE gin news
LONDON TO LIMA
the spirit of adventure
16 SOBER SPIRITS
febfast for gin lovers
22 THE GINSIDER
The Gin Society team
Founders: Andrew Burge and Craig Hodges Director: Jagdev Singh General manager: Edwina Lawry Creative director: Annah Lansdown Editors: Lisa Cugnetto and Helen Alexander Sub-editor: Simon Jones
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26 PASSAGE THROUGH PERU
history, hiking and the perfect G&T
43 THE GIN LIST
36 DINE LIKE A PERUVIAN
5 must-try South American gins
48 IN THE MIX with Carlos Montoya Arango
how to get your South American fix right here in Australia
LONDON TO LIMA ISSUE
ontents
52 THE REVIEW
Get in touch Gin Journal is the bi-monthly members’ magazine of the Gin Society. Members Got a question or query about your membership? We’re here to help. Drop us a line – hello@ginsociety.com
Events Hosting an event? Looking for unique gins or an organised tasting? Let’s talk – events@ginsociety.com
Advertising We welcome enquiries about advertising and brand collaborations. Please contact sales – sales@ginsociety.com
Partnerships Launching a new gin? Opening a new venue or distillery? Let us know – partnerships@ginsociety.com
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THE
TIPPLE Gin news to keep you in the know.
EARP DISTILLING CO. OPENS IN NEWCASTLE
Earp Distilling Co. is a new name on the Australian gin scene. The Earp family company, which was established in 1883 in Newcastle, recently opened a distillery, bar and spirits school in the inner-city p o r t s i d e suburb of Carrington.
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Visitors can pop in and enjoy a range of Earp spirits made on-site – including their wellrounded No 8. Dry Gin, their navy-strength Portside Gin,
limoncello, vodka and absinthe – as well as a curated selection of spirits, cocktails and tapas. Ginmaking classes are also available. 41a Darling Street, Carrington https://earpdistillingco.com
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JUST THE TONIC A coffee-table book that’s bound to impress G&T lovers, Just the Tonic (2019, Kew Publishing) is a beautifully illustrated and thoroughly researched book on the natural history of tonic water. Written by Kim Walker and Mark Nesbitt, the book looks at how the humble tonic has evolved over the years. It explores everything from the use of quinine as an antimalarial treatment to the origins of the G&T and the rise and fall of gin through time. It also features striking botanical posters, botanical art and cocktail recipes. Just the Tonic will give you a new appreciation for the artisan tonics https://shop.kew.org/justthetonic of today.
GIN PALOOZA COMING TO THE CAPITAL IN 2020
Among them, the ACT’s Big River Distilling Co and Underground Spirits, New Zealand’s Broken Hearts Spirits, The Dam Fine Distilling Co and distillers from across the country, including Never Never, Cape Byron Distillery, Natural Distilling Co and more. Presented by the Australian Gin Distillers Association, Canberra Palooza will be held on April 5 at Pialligo Estate. Tickets are $60 each
Gin Palooza
Get excited, Canberra folks, because Gin Palooza is hosting its very first gin festival in the Australian Capital Territory this April. Following in the footsteps of the highly successful Sydney Gin Palooza, this one-day festival will bring together 30 craft distilleries from across Australia and New Zealand.
and will give attendees access to tastings of 150 craft gins and Artisan Drinks tonic waters. Pialligo smokehouse foods will also be available on the day. 5 April, 11am–6pm Pialligo Estate, 18 Kallaroo Road, Pialligo https://australianginawards.com.au/gin-palooza-2020
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NEW DISTILLERY FOR NOOSA
20 20 is a craft distillery set to open in the Noosa hinterland town of Cooroy later this year. The distillery’s focus is on creating premium small-batch spirits made from high-quality ingredients that are handbottled and labelled. A malt whisky and an East London Dry Gin are among the first releases planned when they launch, but 20 20 plans to grow its gin range to upwards of 16 different types in coming years. www.2020distillery.com.au
20 20 Distillery
FLAVOURED GINS ARE IN While flavoured gins may not be for everyone, their popularity is on the rise with the category appealing to a new wave of gin drinkers looking for something a little 6 different.
One such gin that caught our attention recently was the Darby-Norris Distillery Blackberry Gin. Awarded ‘Best in Class’ in the Flavoured Gin category at the 2019 Australian Gin Awards in November, judges said it has “delightfully jammy fruit and lovely texture due to fine tannins”.
Darby-Norris Distillery is a family-run distillery in northern Tasmania. Their Blackberry Gin sees blueberry introduced to their Valley Gin, which has a crisp and slight nutty gin, to create a refreshing fruity-flavoured spirit. www.darbynorrisdistillery.com.au
SUPPORTING CRAFT SPIRITS Now in its fifth year, Indie Spirits Tasting is an event that aims to support craft spirits – including gin. Presented by Australian Bartender Magazine, the first event for the year will be held in Melbourne at Craft & Co on March 29, where some 25 exhibitors will be showcasing more than 100 craft spirits. Events in Brisbane, Perth and Sydney are scheduled for later in the year.
Indie Spirits Tasting
www.indiespiritstasting.com.au
SPIRITS AWARDS SEASON We love awards season and we’re heading into the thick of it in the coming months. So, if like us, you enjoy following which gins are wowing judges at competitions both here and abroad, these are the ones to watch.
Darby-Norris Distillery Blackberry Gin
There’s the World Gin Awards in February, the San Francisco World Spirits Competition in March and The Gin Guide Awards, London Spirits Competition, Australian Distilled Spirits Awards and the International Spirits Challenge in April.
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THE SPIRIT OF ADVENTURE
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TO MAKE GREAT GIN you need to find the purest water source possible. For Alex James, that search led him to a glacial spring in Peru’s rugged Cordillera Blanca. Not content with securing his water supply, he also installed a pipe to a local couple’s hut who, in return, presented him with 30
BORN OF A QUEST TO PERU THAT VENTURED DEEP INTO THE AMAZON JUNGLE, HIGH INTO THE ANDES MOUNTAINS AND ALONG THE PACIFIC COAST.
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kilograms of potatoes. It’s not your average transaction, but this is not your average gin. And trekking up mountains to find the very best ingredients is just one of the many adventures this British distiller and his Peruvian wife Karena have embarked on since moving from London to Lima.
A POT STILL CALLED ENDEAVOUR Combining Peruvian and British spirit traditions – and after plenty of experimentation – Alex created a London Dry gin made on a base of Quebranta grapes, which have been used to produce the iconic Peruvian spirit
pisco for centuries. In fact, one of the first recorded recipes for gin, which dates back to 1495, reveals it was originally made with grapes. “I started tinkering as a hobby and was initially using cachaça, a distilled spirit made with boiled down cane sugar juice,” says Alex. “Then I started working with grapes. I was helping out friends with a harvest and they gave me around 40 kilograms of grapes, so I made my own pisco.” Having adapted a 400-litre Portuguese copper pot still called Endeavour, Alex started working on different pisco, base spirit and gin distillations. “I knew I wanted to make a London Dry gin, but why would you make a really good pisco and then get rid of all those fruity, floral notes?”
Finally, he came up with a flavour profile he was happy with. By bringing forward the juniper and balancing the pisco with botanicals, London to Lima’s first spirit – Glacier Adventure – was born.
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JOURNEYS OF DISC “I have to import the juniper, as it doesn’t grow here and, because I’m a bit of a traditionalist, there are three other botanicals we source from overseas – angelica root, cassia and orris,” says Alex. True to the pair’s adventurous nature, they headed to Tuscany to find a source of orris. Karena’s language skills came in useful here as they approached locals asking where they might find the fragrant – and very rare – ingredient. It was the same story back in Lima, with Alex embarking on a hunt for coriander. “I knew it grew in Peru, but didn’t know how to find a reliable source. I went around the city’s curry houses and eventually met the owner of an Indian restaurant. Now, I buy from his provider. I use a smaller variety of seed than the one most people might be used to as it has a higher concentration of oil.” Then 12
there’s groundcherry, which is thought to be good for the immune system and is native to high-altitude, tropical Peru. As for the gin’s other spice, Alex and Karena didn’t need to travel far at all. “There’s a massive pink peppercorn tree behind the distillery and it grows on the surrounding farm. I drive up to a valley nearby where they are abundant, drop them onto a sheet in the Land Rover and the children help pick the peppercorns off the stalk – they can’t drink the gin, but at least they can play with the botanicals!” To achieve the gin’s citrusforward flavours, Alex looked for fruits that represented classic Peruvian flavours.
OVERY THREE TIMES DISTILLED IN A HYBRID COPPER POT STILL, THEN BLENDED WITH WATER
He ended up settling on two: limón sutíl, the key ingredient in ceviche, and Valencia oranges. The final ingredient, of course, is water. Demineralised, deionised and, most importantly, straight from the mountains. Drawing on his
army reconnaissance skills – Alex spent eight years as a captain in the Household Cavalry – he worked with a local guide to find glacial springs and test samples from each. You know the rest. Having identified a source, they laid a 200-metre pipe from the eye of the spring and, keen to support the local community, ensured they also supplied water to a couple living in a nearby hut. “They were in their 70s and would walk along the mountain track armed with buckets to collect water, so they were very grateful,” he says.
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AN
The featu disti
NEW PROJECTS IN PRODUCTION But back to gin, and the good news that more hyper-local inspiration has resulted in the recent launch of a second spirit, thanks to the abundance of mulberry trees growing behind the distillery. Combined with coca, sourced from the jungle region on the other side of the Andes, this rich purple liqueur is the result of two years of recipe tweaking and refining.
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“I first played around with the mulberry in around 2017,” says Alex. “Sitting down and blitzing a recipe doesn’t quite work, I need to mull it over. That’s why it’s taken so long to actually get it out there. Actually, that might be the advantage and the disadvantage of a small family business – you don’t need to be so rigid with your deadlines!”
Happily, his approach has paid off and Andean Adventure represents the second chapter in London to Lima’s gin-making story. “I want to come back to a couple of other gins I’ve had in the pipeline for a long time now. I quite like to sit on them for a while to see how they handle over time. To find out how the colour and the flavour develops. Because we don’t use citric acid or other stabilisers, you’ll likely see some evolution of flavour the way you would with a fine wine.” And as we are talking about chapters, Alex credits author Willard Price with sparking the sense of adventure that’s led him on his gin-making journey. “His books might be one of the reasons why we are here now.”
DEAN ADVENTURE
luscious Mulberry & Coca Peruvian Liqueur ures mulberries, which grow next to the illery, and coca that’s grown across the Andes.
GLACIER ADVENTURE
London to Lima’s London Dry gin is a full-flavoured fusion of floral grape notes, mountain herbs, citrus and pink pepper spice. Made with water sourced from the Cordillera Blanca.
EXPLORATION BOTTLED If Alex is all about the liquid, Karena is in charge of everything around it. Not least her role in providing the inspiration for Glacier Adventure’s label. “When I was at university in Durham [in the UK], I was probably the only Peruvian the other students had ever met,” she says. “And so, a couple of people nicknamed me ‘Paddington’, which is one of the reasons we chose the bear for the label.”
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While we know the friendly bear has a penchant for marmalade sandwiches, the real-life spectacled bear’s herbivorous diet consists of mainly (and rather fittingly) botanicals. As for the Andean Adventure, another animal native to Peru graces the label – a spectacled caiman. From branding to bottle, Karena’s attention to detail led the pair to a local craftsman, who carved a mould from wood before casting it in metal and using recycled glass to make the bottle sitting in front of you today. “He has this antiquated machinery and what he does is a real art,” she says. “Working with him has been has been really incredible.” And, because every good explorer’s backpack should contain a hip flask, that’s exactly what London to Lima’s various-sized bottles look like. There’s also a map on the label, which was recorded by the German and Austrian Alpine 16
Association during their 1932 expedition. In a move that surely the great explorer Phileas Fogg would have approved of himself, each bottle is corked and handdipped in green or blue wax in order to seal it. As for distribution, Karena has been known to pedal gin around London on her bicycle. “Just as it’s important for us to build a relationship with the local community, it’s also important to make friends with the bar community, both in London and in Lima,” she says.
There’s a warm welcome waiting at the distillery too. Situated an hour south of Lima, Alex keeps himself busy leading tours – from gin and tonics on the terrace to the grape crusher and the still – so visitors can see how the liquid is made from scratch and get to grips with the different distillation processes. “It’s a hands-on experience, and everyone gets to add a handwritten label to their own bottle of gin,” he says. With plans to add in cocktail-making sessions, it’s just the beginning. “What drives us is our passion. I’m really proud of what we have created but it’s still early days. “The distillery is a lovely spot to work in. There are pomegranate trees all around it, so you can probably guess what might be coming next…”
Turn to In The Mix on page 50 for some London to Lima recipe inspiration. 17
SOBER SPIRITS
Mindful drinking doesn’t have to mean missing out on flavourful botanicals. Whether you’ve signed up to febfast or are simply contemplating cutting down your alcohol intake this month, we’re raising a glass of gin (yes, really) to the distillers who’ve been working their magic to create booze-free and low-ABV versions of everyone’s favourite juniper-based spirit.
ZERO-ALCOHOL DISTILLATES Not content with creating two award-winning 40% ABV gins – Hearts and Spades – Melbourne distiller Brunswick Aces has launched a new drinks category for those looking to moderate their alcohol consumption. Called Sapiir, their two non-alcoholic distillates are packed with Australian botanicals. “Our Spades blend Sapiir is inspired by savoury fresh gin, leading with notes of green cardamom and parsley, and is beautifully balanced by sweet citrus and Australian lemon myrtle,” says co-founder Stephen Lawrence. On the other hand, their Hearts blend Sapiir is like a spicy warm gin, which leads with notes of cassia bark and ginger, as well as featuring sweet citrus and native wattleseed. Located on Victoria Street, the startup distillery is the country’s first zero-alcohol spirits company and was established to meet the “growing demand for adultorientated alternatives that rival the taste and experience 18
of their alcoholic counterparts, but with none of the effects of alcohol”. It was a similar motivation that led Morten Sørensen to create GinISH from his Copenhagen distillery: “We are on a mission to change the social norms of drinking by providing a satisfying, alcohol-free alternative.” He explains how the aromas of coriander seeds harvested from Provence and juniper berries are extracted through steam and distilled to create the spirit. GinISH has proved so successful he has since launched RumISH, an alcohol-free alternative to (yes, you guessed it) rum.
Morten Sørensen, creator of GinISH
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CREATING FAUX COCKTAILS Not content with concocting their self-proclaimed ‘alt-gin’ Ceder’s, husband-and-wife team Craig Hutchison and Maria Sehlstrom have also designed a number of cocktails specifically for the distillate. Combining the pristine water of Maria’s Swedish homeland with wild botanicals from South Africa, where Craig was born, the pair’s three varieties of zero-alcohol gin include: Classic featuring geranium and Cape floral fynbos; Wild that’s made with ginger, clove and rooibos; and the cucumber and camomile-infused Crisp. Their mocktail recipes feature sparkling white grape juice, elderflower cordial and cranberry juice to make a Disarmed 75, Ceder’s Collins and Ceder’s on the Beach, respectively.
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Another strong contender on the mocktail scene is Seedlip, having recently released their NOgroni to celebrate the 100-year anniversary of the boozy version, which was reportedly created when Count Camillo Negroni asked his barman to swap the soda in his Americano for gin. Founder Ben Branson created the NOgroni a couple of years ago by blending Seedlip Spice 94 with two of their Æcorn aperitifs – bitters and aromatic. It tasted so good he ended up bottling it at the end of 2019 to sell as a pre-mixed drink.
MOCKTAIL BAR COWCH
BRISBANE
2/179 GREY ST, BRISBANE Home to decadent desserts and mouthwatering mocktails, Cowch has a couple of locations across Brisbane and the Gold Coast. Choose from a selection that includes the pink sherbet tang of the Strawberry Fizzer and a fruity Pearl Jam, which is made with cranberry, lime and blueberry pearls. 21
MOCKTAIL BAR
ADELAIDE
MAYBE MAE
15 PEEL ST, ADELAIDE One of the city’s most respected cocktail bars, the team at Maybe Mae are committed to always including four alcohol-free concoctions in their 24-strong cocktail menu. Swing by to see what’s being shaken or stirred when you’re next in town.
MOCKTAIL BAR PS40
SYDNEY
SKITTLE LANE, SYDNEY From the creators of PS Soda comes a sleek CBD bar that recently launched a festivalinspired drinks list. There’s a mezcal-spiked Day of the Dead and the Thanksgiving, which features rye whiskey, but the bartenders are still dedicated to helping drinkers keep a clear head. Their soda flight features some of their signature bottles, from wattle cola and smoked lemonade to bush tonic and blackstrap ginger. 22
REDUCING THOSE UNITS From zero alcohol to low alcohol, Bermondseybased distiller Nick Johnson launched Trinity25 in 2019, having been inspired by the neighbourhood’s ginmaking heritage. Combining a ‘trinity’ of spiced botanicals – cardamom for a smooth taste, coriander seeds to deliver a citrus bite and black pepper for a subtle kick – this juniper-infused spirit made with 100% English grain is a lighter alternative to gin at 25% ABV.
punch, so while it comes in at 43% ABV, you only need 5ml to make a delicious-tasting gin and tonic – the bottle even comes with a little thimble measure to ensure you get the right quantity. That means each G&T contains just 0.2 units of alcohol. Then, as one of the leading lights in London’s ginaissance, there’s Portobello Road and their 4.2% Temperance, which is perfect in a low-alcohol martini.
Meanwhile, Hayman’s Small Gin packs an extra flavourful
MOCKTAIL BAR LAFAYETTE
PERTH
LOWER GEORGES LANE, PERTH Sitting in a heritagelisted building with timber floors and antique decorative flourishes, this classic bar is bang up to date with its approach to alcoholfree alternatives. Faux cocktails include the Immaculate Mojito, made with fresh mint, lime and Granny Smith apple juice. 23
THE GINSIDER
Our latest Ginsider is Gin Society member Joel Holt. When the Sydney-based kitchen salesman isn’t spending time with his family, Joel likes to discover new and different gins while sharing the experience with like-minded individuals. Here, he talks to us about all things gin.
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What do you love about gin as a spirit? I love that no one gin is the same. It’s open to interpretation. It’s a bit like wine in that sense. One of the other things I love about gin is getting other people involved. I like referring gins to people and talking to them about the different ways to try them. What draws you to a gin? I look at the bottle and its design. I like it if it looks different. Like Monkey 47 Gin, which has a brown medicinal-style bottle and a cork top. I also try to stay away from mainstream gins. Those that are more difficult to get are what I am after. I don’t want to be drinking what everyone else is drinking.
JOEL H OLT
JOEL’S GIN LIST Monkey 47 Gin: https://monkey47.com/ 44 Degrees North: https://shop.comtedegrasse.com/ Green Ant Gin: https://www.adelaidehillsdistillery.com.au/shop/ green-ant-gin Pink Pepper Gin: https://www.audemus-spirits.com/spirits/ Brookie’s: https://www.capebyrondistillery.com/product-category/gin/ KOVAL Cranberry Gin Liqueur.: https://www.koval-distillery.com/ newsite/gin/cranberry-gin-liqueur Old Bakery Gin: https://www.oldbakerygin.com/ Sipsmith London Dry Gin: https://sipsmith.com
JOEL’S GO-TO GARNISH
Why not try this twist on a classic garnish by adding strawberry and lime to your next G&T? The trick is to use the perfect mixer to complement this sweet and sour garnish. Joel recommends Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic and Artisan Classic London Tonic.
Any particular gins you’re enjoying at the moment? Pink Pepper Gin would be up there and 44 Degrees North. I drink both of them with one ice cube, just to take the edge off. I also really enjoy sloe gins as well. What does your personal gin collection look like? At the moment I’ve probably got around 28 bottles. There’s some Green Ant Gin, Pink Pepper Gin, Hendrick’s, KI NO BI, Jinzu, Sipsmith – which is my everyday gin – Whitley Neill Gin, and a couple of bottles of Brookie’s including their Byron Slow Gin, Dry Gin and one of their limited-edition ones. A lot from Gin Society too, like Juno, Jensen’s,
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the Melbourne Gin Company’s Single Shot Gin and Le Tribute, which was delicate but delicious. Do you have a go-to garnish or mixer? My go-to garnish at the moment is strawberry and lime. I use a big chunk of lime – I call it
a dirty lime – you just squeeze it and dump it in. Then you muddle the strawberry up a little bit, so it’s all juicy, throw that in and stir it around with the ice. A Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic goes really well with it or even some of the Artisan ones, like the Classic London Tonic.
JOEL’S DESERT ISLAND GINS
SIPSMITH LONDON DRY GIN England “A cracking gin that’s great to have with tonic and lime.” This reputed juniperled classic London Dry gin is smooth, aromatic and perfect to drink neat or in a martini.
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https://sipsmith.com
AUDEMUS PINK PEPPER GIN
KOVAL CRANBERRY GIN LIQUEUR
France “It’s just phenomenal and one that you can sip on and savour all night.”
USA “For something different.”
Aromatic, bold and complex, this French gin, which is crafted in Cognac, is the signature spirit of Audemus Distillery. It is made with nine botanicals, led by bright and spicy notes of pink peppercorns and juniper.
Tart, fruit-forward and bittersweet, this ruby red Cranberry Gin Liqueur by Chicagobased distiller KOVAL is made with 13 organic botanicals.
www.audemus-spirits.com
www.koval-distillery.com
Any other garnishes you’ve been experimenting with? I love garnishes with gin. I like experimenting and having a bit of a lolly at the end to chew on. I like pomegranate, lavender, rosemary, thyme, and raspberries. But it depends as I try to follow the flavours of the gin. So if it’s fruity, I try something fruity. If it’s spicy, I try something spicy. Listen to the experts but then just experiment. There’s no harm in trying different things. As a kitchen salesman, what do you think makes a great home gin bar? First up, plenty of storage. You need a good set of glasses. Ones where you can get your nose in there and smell and taste the gin. A good shot glass – the bigger, the better. A stirrer, a muddler and something that’s unique to you to personalise it. I have a bit of Collingwood memorabilia in mine. Any memorable gin experiences you’d like to share? There have been a few but probably one of the most memorable was when I went to the Archie Rose Distillery. I had already tried their general range but I said to the bartender, ‘Can you show me gins that are a little different and that I probably haven’t had?’ He started me off with the Green Ant Gin, which could be a bit polarising for some people as it has insects in and a quite unique flavour. I found it really interesting and refreshing. Then we tried Hemp Gin by Ginversity and a few others. I also went out with my wife recently in the city and we did a bar hop. We
just went to all these different bars and tried all these different gins. There were a few interesting places, like Christopher Hanna on Bridge Street in Sydney, which is a hair salon with a high-end lounge bar at the back. If you were stuck on a desert island, what three gins would you bring with you and why? I’d probably take a one-litre bottle of entry-level Sipsmith. Just because it is a cracking gin and is great to have with tonic and lime. I’d also take a bottle of Audemus Pink Pepper Gin. It’s just phenomenal and one that you can sip on and savour all night. And, just for something different, the KOVAL Cranberry Gin Liqueur. If you could travel anywhere in the world to sample gin, where would it be? I would probably head down to Tasmania. With the amount of highquality gin coming out of Tasmania right now I’d be hard-pressed to go anywhere else. I know the UK is traditionally considered the home of gin but I think that Tasmania is fast becoming the Australian home of gin. What do you like most about the Gin Society? I joined just after the Jensen release came out, around March 2019. My first delivery was Juno, which I loved. I really feel like I’m part of something with the Gin Society, especially after going to one of the VIP member events. I love the presentation of the box and how each gin is packaged and put together too.
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Passage throug
All images: PROMPERĂš
From hiking trails to historic drawings, Peru is packed with natural and manmade attractions. Its mountains and valleys are also home to some of the most essential ingredients that go into making the perfect gin and tonic.
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gh Peru
Machu Picchu
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Laguna 69
Mountainous majesty
CORDILLERA BLANCA For breathtaking mountain scenery, it has to be Cordillera Blanca and the multi-day Llanganuco to Santa Cruz trek. Passing snow-covered peaks and glacial meltwater lakes, it offers intrepid explorers the opportunity to see where the London to Lima team source the pure water that goes into their gin. With the help of a mountain guide, Alex found a spring 4,000m above sea level that was perfect – and installed a 30
pipe at the source to ensure the local community got to enjoy the sparkling-clean water too. Sitting higher still – in fact, just a few hundred metres below Everest’s base camp – is Laguna 69. One of more than 400 lakes that form part of the Huascarán National Park, the altitude makes for an exhausting trek but the dazzling blue water is well worth it.
Llanganuco to Santa Cruz trek in the Cordillera Blanca
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Sandboarding hot-spot
Paracas Peninsula
Paracas Peninsula
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HUACACHINA Swap snow for sand at another crystal-clear lagoon in Huacachina. This idyllic desert oasis is surrounded by palm trees and believed to have therapeutic properties. There’s no time for a dip, however, as the main attractions here are the red and yellow wind-sculpted sand dunes. Make your way to the top for a colourful panorama as the sun sets
and enjoy an adrenaline rush as you sand-board your way back to the bottom. If you prefer your thrills to be slightly more sedate, just over an hour’s drive away is Paracas Peninsula – a marine nature reserve that’s home to a colony of inquisitive sea lions and a host of indigenous bird species.
Paracas Peninsula
Huacachina
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MACHU PICCHU Built in the 15th century and later abandoned, the wellpreserved remains of Machu Picchu are perched high in the Andes Mountains above the Urubamba River valley. Named one of the New Seven Wonders
of the World, the archaeological site is accessible by train from Cusco (about a three-hour journey) or on foot – the worldfamous Inca Trail hiking route passes little villages, fluffy llamas and ancient terraces
Remains of an Inca citad
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ON THE TONIC TRAIL along the way. While it might be tempting to pack a gin-filled hip flask, the locals swear that coca tea is the only thing to help you acclimatise and keep the altitude sickness at bay.
del
We’ve all heard of quinine. Used to treat malaria, it’s what lends your ice-cold G&T that trademark hint of bitterness. But did you know quinine was actually discovered in Peru? Extracted from the bark of the cinchona tree, knowledge of this naturally occurring chemical compound soon spread around the world as Spanish colonists brought it back to Europe. By the 1800s, British officers stationed in India had come up with a way to make their daily dose of medicine more delicious – by mixing it with water, sugar, lime and gin – before the idea of creating a carbonated tonic water finally caught on later that century. Fast-forward to the present day and premium tonic water 1724 takes its name from the altitude where its key ingredient – quinine – is harvested. Handpicked near the Inca Trail, the result is a fresh, bright tonic water that’s slightly less bitter compared to other varieties.
Machu Picchu
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NAZCA LINES Take to the skies in a light aircraft to see hundreds of pre-Columbian geoglyphs etched into desert sands of the Rio Grande de Nazca river basin in southern Peru. Covering an area of nearly 1,000km2 there are about 300 different figures and geometric
designs, ranging from a cactus and a monkey to a huge hummingbird. Researchers are still widely divided as to the meaning of the 2,000-year-old drawings, so head to this designated UNESCO World Heritage Site and come up with your own theory.
Desert drawings
Nazca Lines
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Arequipa
Soaring condors Cóndor in Colca Canyon
COLCA CANYON Thought America’s Grand Canyon was impressive? Think again. Cotahuasi Canyon is almost twice as deep, but it is nearby Colca Canyon that attracts the most attention thanks to a flock of Andean condor who call the rugged cliffs home. Easily accessible from the pretty town of Arequipa, the canyon descends to around 3,400m at its deepest point. On the way, you might just spot pink peppercorn trees. One of the botanicals used in London to Lima Gin, Karena recommends crushing the spicy
fruit and blending it with sugar, then rolling the lip of a martini glass in the mixture for the ultimate dirty martini. Spend a night camping next to the Colca River (a popular rafting destination in its own right) before making your ascent to the Cruz del Cóndor lookout to see condors gliding majestically on thermal air currents. If you are feeling inspired, emulate the flight path of a condor on a terrifying 600m zip-line at Calera hot springs. 37
Dine like a Peruvian right here in Oz Hotfoot it to these Peruvian-inspired dining and drinking establishments right here in Australia for a local take on the Latin American experience.
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MELBOURNE | Pastuso
MELBOURNE Pastuso
Tucked away down AC/DC Lane in Melbourne’s CBD, this hip Peruvian restaurant is a buzzy and colourful affair. The Pastuso menu brings together culinary influences from the Peruvian coast, Andes and jungle. Think delicious calle (street) food, ceviche, smoked and charcoalgrilled meats, as well as mouth-watering desserts. The drinks menu is equally generous, with a broad range of pisco (a Peruvian grape spirit), cocktails, spirits and wines drawn from Latin America, Europe and Australia. Pastuso offers a modern Melburnian take on Peruvian cuisine that won’t disappoint. 19 AC/DC Lane, Melbourne www.pastuso.com.au
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MELBOURNE | Harley House
SYDNEY | Nikkei
Image Credit Bruno Stefani
Harley House
MELBOURNE
Melbourne’s Harley House on Collins Street is a cool bar, restaurant and art space serving up Latin American cocktails and cuisine with a strong Peruvian focus. Grab a cosy booth, table or seat at the bar at this basement-level venue and settle in for some first-class dining and drinks. Pisco and ceviche are the signature serves of Harley House, but there’s plenty that will please. Fancy a share menu of tasty grazing dishes or a drink from their massive list of wines, craft beers and spirits? You got it.
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71 Collins St, Melbourne https://harleyhouse.com.au
Nikkei
Nikkei is a term used to describe the cuisine of the Japanese-Peruvians, the origins of which date back to the late-1890s when the first Japanese immigrated to Peru. So it seems a fitting name for this Surry Hills-based restaurant and bar showcasing such a unique culinary fusion. Created by the team behind reputed Sydney bar/eateries Tokyo Bird and Bancho, Nikkei serves up beautiful food in a beautiful space. Enjoy tasty tapas made for sharing with a cocktail, wine, spirit, sake or pisco. 214-226 Commonwealth Street, Surry Hills https://nikkeibar.com.au
MELBOURNE | Harley House
SYDNEY | Nikkei
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SYDNEY | Tequila Mockingbird
Tequila Mockingbird
Housed in an unassuming converted heritage terrace in Paddington, Tequila Mockingbird has been serving up inventive Latin Americaninspired fare to Sydneysiders since 2016. While Peruvian food may not be the sole star of this elegant restaurant’s menu, it does feature in the form of Nikkei, their Japanese-Peruvian raw dishes, alongside street food, Argentinian-style flame-grilled dishes and a drinks menu big on mescal, tequila, spirits and wine. 6 Heeley Street, Paddington www.tequila-mockingbird.com.au
Image Credit Bruno Stefani
SYDNEY SYDNEY | Tequila Mockingbird
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What the pisco?
It’s inevitable that you’ll be offered a pisco – or a classic cocktail made with it, such as a Pisco Sour – when visiting a Peruvian-influenced eatery or bar. So what exactly is it? Pisco is a colourless grape brandy that is considered Peru’s national spirit. The production of pisco is regulated in Peru, which means it can only be made with one (or more) of eight specific grapes in five designated regions in Peru. After fermentation, the pisco is singledistilled with no further additions, such as water or flavouring, allowed. This is what differentiates it from Chilean pisco, which is often put through multiple distillations, cut with water and coloured.
BYRON B AY BYRON BAY | A Chef’s Pocket
Host your own Peruvian feast at home
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Heading Byron Bay way and fancy a Peruvian feast that comes to you? Andres Soldi and Franco Reverditto are the two Peruvian chefs behind A Chef’s Pocket. The two friends, who met while studying at renowned cooking school Le Cordon Bleu in Lima, created the food business as a way to share and promote their native food, culture and music with locals and tourists. The pair are as happy to cook for guests in their own homes as they are to cater for events, with menus spanning the casual through to the luxurious. A different way to enjoy a Peruvian dining experience. BYRON BAY | www.achefspocket.com
A Chef’s Pocket
BRISBANE
Mongrel
Locals love Mongrel, a bar and kitchen in Brisbane’s Milton, for its lowkey charm, friendly vibe and a great selection of boutique beers, wines, spirits and cocktails. Their menu of Peruvian-inspired street eats is also a big drawcard. Think salchipapas (Peruvian loaded fries), fish chicharrón (Ponzu-cured fried fish bites) and tequeños (Peruvian cheese pastries), not to mention Mongrel’s own twist on ceviche. It’s a laid-back Australian take on Peruvian food. 1/12 Park Road, Milton www.mongrelbrisbane.com
BRISBANE | Mongrel
Image Credit Robbie Lynch
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PERTH | Uma
Uma
PERTH
PERTH | Uma
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There’s a decisively West Australian feel to Uma, which opened in February 2019. This attractive hotel restaurant, located in the Pan Pacific in town, offers a modern spin on Peruvian cuisine made using fresh, local and sustainable ingredients. Their flavoursome menu draws flavours from the ocean, paddocks, valleys and streets of Peru, with their ‘feed me’ menu offering a taste of each. And, as you’d expect, the Pisco Sour is the cocktail of choice offered at the nearby Bar Uma. The Peruvian Plum Pisco, made with sloe gin, apricot, cinnamon and lime, is another libation highlight. Pan Pacific Perth, 207 Adelaide Terrace, Perth www.umaperth.com.au .
PERTH | Uma
The Gin List MUST-TRY
SOUTH AMERICAN GINS From botanicals that are sustainably sourced from the Amazon to altitudedefying distillation processes, globetrotting gin lovers should get acquainted with these South American sensations.
ECUADOR
CHILE ARGENTINA
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ECUADOR
ANDINA DRY GIN LA REPUBLICA
Brimming with botanicals from the mountainous Andes, including pink peppercorns, quirquiña (Bolivian coriander) and ulupica chilli peppers, Andina Dry Gin is distilled at 4,000m above sea level. It’s also (rather unusually) made on a base of grapes. Why? Because La Republica also produces its own version of singani – Bolivia’s national liquor that’s distilled from white Muscat of Alexandria grapes. Andina Dry Gin was launched in 2014 and the following year was joined by Amazónica Gin, which includes rainforest botanicals such as chuchuhuasi bark, cupuaçu pulp and cacao – all of which are sourced from indigenous cooperatives.
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ARGENTINA
A
LONDON DRY GIN C R E S P O Image on p45
Blend pure water from the Ecuadorian Andes with a neutral alcohol from sugarcane, add 11 spices sourced from across four continents – including orris from Morocco, dill from India and cardamom from Guatemala – distil it three times and you’ve got Crespo’s London Dry Gin. Having inherited his grandfather’s distillery in the rural Andean community of Uzhupud, Gustavo Crespo spent decades perfecting his recipes – and it shows. His hand-numbered bottles have won awards around the world.
MATE GIN PRÍNCIPE DE LOS APÓSTOLES
From Tato Giovannoni, owner of Argentina’s world-famous Florería Atlántico (number three on the World’s 50 Best Bars list in 2019), comes this tropical spirit that features pink grapefruit skins, eucalyptus, peppermint and indigenous yerba mate leaves. The product of two years of experimentation, Tato looked to the tea plantations farmed by Spanish missionaries in the 17th century to flavour his gin with fresh mate leaves. Each botanical is individually macerated before being distilled in 200-litre German copper stills.
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DRY GIN LAST HOPE DISTILLERY
It might be the end of the world, but at least there’s artisan gin. In fact, it was the remote beauty of Torres del Paine National Park that inspired Aussie couple Kiera Shiels and Matt Oberg to launch their small-batch distillery in Puerto Natales five years ago. Catering to hikers looking for something with a little heat, the citrus-forward Dry Gin is packed with warm spice, herbal notes and red-fruit undertones, thanks to the inclusion of local ECUADOR maqui berries, lemon verbena, yerba mate and winter’s bark pepper. They recently launched a purple-hued Calafate Gin featuring hand-foraged calafate berries, while their bar promises the perfect postadventure aperitif.
ARGE
CHILE
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ENTINA
TREASURE DICTADOR
Used oak barrels are put to good use in this South-America-meetsCaribbean creation from Colombian rum producers Dictador, who you might remember made an appearance in our Jensen’s Gin Journal – their Ortodoxy gin is a favourite of Dukes Bar’s head bartender Alessandro Palazzi. This zingy offering is the result of the addition of local limonmandarino fruit. Aged for 35 weeks in barrels that previously stored rum, the result is a slightly sweet, smooth-drinking gin that’s best savoured straight over a few ice cubes.
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In the Mix
AYA H U AS C A , LIMA
WITH CARLOS MONTOYA ARANGO With a star-studded bartending background, Carlos is the co-owner of Ayahuasca – a breathtaking bar in Lima’s bohemian Barranco neighbourhood.
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INSPIRED BY THE AMAZONIAN RITUAL OF THE SAME NAME, AYAHUASCA OPENED IN 2008 AND HAS BEEN SERVING UP ITS MYSTICAL TAKE ON A PISCO SOUR – AN AYAHUASCA SOUR – TO LIMA’S PARTY PEOPLE EVER SINCE.
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ur flagship cocktail is made from a pisco that has been macerated with coca leaves,” says Carlos. “We then add aguaymanto and tumbo juice, both of which are fruits that can be found in the Andes.” CHAMPIONING SMALL DISTILLERIES Inspired by his love of blending flavours, Carlos has been busy seeking out new spirits to create innovative cocktails and refreshed versions of old classics. “I particularly enjoy the challenge of AYA H UASC A , LIMA experimenting with lesserknown distillates,” he says, “thus extending the limits of the cocktail bar. Recently, we developed a new menu that’s centred around pisco and we have
been looking at various ways of using this distillate, with varying forms of sours, crushed fruits and Chilcanos – a cocktail made with pisco, lemon juice and refreshing ginger ale.” Carlos says London to Lima was the ideal fit for their menu, with the pisco-based gin adding a unique dimension to their gin-based offerings. And, with the recent release of their mulberry and coca gin liqueur, Carlos is looking forward to coming up with even more tempting creations. LOCAL FLAVOURS SHINE THROUGH “Lima is a great place to be a mixologist,” says Carlos, who started working behind the bar of the exclusive Costa Verde in 1996 before expanding his skill set at several five-star hotels in 51
Porfiado 30mL LONDON TO LIMA GIN 40mL LONDON TO LIMA MULBERRY & COCA GIN LIQUEUR 10mL LIME JUICE 30mL GRAPEFRUIT JUICE 7.5mL SUGAR SYRUP
PUT THE INGREDIENTS IN A SHAKER WITH ICE AND SHAKE WELL. STRAIN AND SERVE IN AN ICE-COLD COUPE GLASS. GARNISH WITH MULBERRIES AND (IF YOU CAN TRACK THEM DOWN) COCA LEAVES.
This is a modification of the Wibble, which was created by Dick Bradsell – the bartender who also invented the Bramble cocktail. Its name comes from the roly-poly toy manufactured by Weebles, whose advertising slogan ran: “Weebles wobble but they don’t fall down.” As for this cocktail, it might make you wobble but you’ll stay upright. As it is made with London to Lima Gin and Mulberry & Coca Gin Liqueur, we opted for ‘Porfiado’ as its name, which is what the roly-poly toy is referred to in Spanish.
the city and settling at Japanese restaurant Hanzo, where he had the opportunity to learn more about sake. Finally, the opportunity arose to run his own place and Ayahuasca was born. “We place special attention on the ingredients that we use, and our favourite fresh fruits can be found in the nearby countryside, like prickly 52 pear, camu camu and sweet granadilla.”
GRAND DESIGNS IN BARRANCO It’s not just the cocktails that take people’s breath away. Located in a stunning 19th-century house called Mansión Berninzon, every floor is uniquely decorated with colourful Peruvianinspired artwork while allowing the original features to shine through – like wooden floorboards and a sweeping marble staircase.
Inka Bramble 60mL LONDON TO LIMA GIN 30mL LIME JUICE 20mL SUGAR SYRUP 30mL LONDON TO LIMA MULBERRY & COCA GIN LIQUEUR
PUT THE FIRST THREE INGREDIENTS INTO A COCKTAIL SHAKER WITH ICE AND MIX. STRAIN THE MIXTURE AND SERVE IN A GLASS FILLED WITH CRUSHED ICE, THEN CAREFULLY ADD THE MULBERRY & COCA GIN LIQUEUR TO CREATE A RAIN-LIKE EFFECT. SERVE IN A TUMBLER AND GARNISH WITH BLACKBERRIES AND COCA LEAVES.
This is a version of the modern classic, the Bramble cocktail, which was created in the mid-1980s by Dick Bradsell of Fred’s Club in Soho, where London’s art and media elite used to socialise. While a Bramble is traditionally made with blackberry, ours uses Peruvian mulberry – hence the ‘Inka’ in its name.
“I believe Ayahuasca is one of the best bars in Peru, that’s in part thanks to its interesting colonial architecture,” says Carlos. “With its sky-high ceilings and multiple bars spread across several levels, it gives a sense of escaping reality and entering a unique place. Lima as a city and culinary capital is an exciting and fastmoving place to work. It’s the perfect place for people from all over the world who are keen to experience a taste of Peru.”
If you are lucky enough to have the opportunity to immerse yourself in the Peruvian spirit of things at Ayahuasca, then you’ll try Carlos’s creations firsthand. In the meantime, kickstart your cocktail adventure with two specially created drinks from Alex James and his mixologist neighbour Javier Laos, who enjoys spending time compiling his own personal book of cocktails. 53
THE REVIEW
Each issue, a Gin Society expert reviews our featured spirit. This month it’s Mika Ammunét from Bulletin Place Bar in Sydney.
4.5 5 JUNIPER
CITRUS
FLORAL
HEAT
HERBAL
SPICE
FRUIT
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65
70
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65
20
75
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“I
fell in love with hospitality in 2010 while I was holidaying in Australia, travelling up and down the east coast. After returning home to Finland, I got my Bachelor’s Degree in Restaurant Management and spent five years working in various cocktail bars in Helsinki before building up the courage to work abroad. I moved to Sydney and have been working at Bulletin Place Bar in Circular Quay for the past two years. Opened in December 2012, Bulletin Place is a cocktail-lover’s dream. The drinks menu changes every day and is written up on butcher’s paper behind the bar. We create five new original cocktails each day (Mon – Sat), collaborating directly with farmers and growers to champion seasonal and local produce.
overpowering alcohol burn, which I have found in another grape-based spirit, grappa, but was pleased to find the fruity notes accompanied by citrus and juniper aromas, customary to gins. I found this combination exciting and original. Surprisingly, I got a little whiff of chocolate notes and went back for another sniff or two, trying to catch it again. I haven’t come across grape-based gins too often, so London to Lima caught my tastebuds’ attention right away. The fruity undertone carried through the length of the sip. At first, the fruity taste tricked me into thinking I was tasting a pisco, but it quickly changed into spiciness, filling my mouth with adventurous black pepper, coriander seed and cinnamon seasonings. After the spice treatment, I was in for another ride. The spices exploded into a heat sensation, derived mainly from the pink peppercorn, and gently ignited my tastebuds towards the destination. The heat was then accompanied by the juniper, giving the palate a medium to long-lasting finish with juniper MIKA AMMUNÉT and citrus notes.
Reading about cocktails and spirits is essential for any bartender, but I’ve also put a lot of effort into studying human behaviour, psychology and leadership – it’s helped me better understand different types of people, whether they’re customers or co-workers. The Image Credit: Jeffry Santony hospitality industry, understanding customers London to Lima is a complex gin, offering a and being empathic to what they want is my round trip of flavours between said cities, and passion. is best enjoyed while researching flights for your next holiday! My visa runs out this year and my plan is to return to Finland – backpack full of knowledge Holidays or not on the horizon, try a classic – to open my own bar in Helsinki. Dry Gin Martini garnished with an orange twist and you already feel like you’re in Peru. Of course, I had to try a Pisco Sour-style drink with London to Lima and was not disappointed. London to Lima Gin truly took me on an Remember to use both lemon and lime juice adventure! The Peruvian native Quebranta when making the sour, and preferably use grapes used to create pisco, which is the aquafaba (chickpea water) instead of egg base spirit for this gin, allows for a complex whites. Finally, my signature cocktail is a subtle playground of flavours. I noticed some floral twist on the modern classic London Calling, and fruity notes with apples and grapes on the with the addition of caraway seed notes from nose and immediately connected them with aquavit and a hint of cinnamon derived from the pisco base. I expected to get a bit of that the Abbott’s Bitters. 55
TASTING NOTES
COCKTAIL RECIPE: LIMA CALLING
Image Credit: Jeffry Santony
Mika created a twist on the classic London Calling cocktail, to complement the adventurous flavours of this delicious gin.
40ML LONDON TO LIMA GIN 15mL FINO SHERRY 15mL LEMON JUICE 15mL SUGAR SYRUP B A R S P O O N O F A Q U AV I T 2 D AS H E S O F A B B OT T ’ S B I T T E R S ( C L AS S I C A N G O S T U R A B I T T E R S W O R K S A S A S U B S T I T U T E )
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Combine all ingredients with ice in a cocktail shaker. Shake vigorously and strain into a coupette. Garnish with two frozen red grapes on a toothpick.
Discover
Australian craft Gin
www.gintonica.com.au
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INTRODUCING GIFT SUBSCRIPTIONS Perfect for the gin lover in your life, a subscription to the Gin Society is a passport to the incredible world of craft gins. Available for 6 or 12 months, visit www.ginsociety.com
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