Eat, drink and sleep like Clooney
WILD THING HOW TO FORAGE FOR EDIBLE PLANTS
LUCKY
LAKE COMO
OUR PICK OF I TA LY ’ S B E S T ARTISAN GINS
7
MEET THE MAKERS We chat with RIVO Gin
SAY CHEERS TO MASTERING THE NEGRONI
Torno, Lake Como, Italy
RIVO Gin forages its botanicals from the mountains that surround Lake Como, a picture-postcard setting in northern Italy.
Editor’s
WELCOME We love a good gin. It’s what inspired us to establish the Gin Society. We wanted to create a space where we could curate and share some of the world’s finest artisan gins with a community of like-minded gin enthusiasts.
THIS MONTH’S SPECIALLY SELECTED GIN, RIVO, COMES FROM THE SHORES OF LAKE COMO, ITALY.
We’re excited to launch the Gin Society with RIVO Gin. Made by a small-batch producer in Italy’s stunning Lake Como, RIVO Gin combines Italian grain alcohol and hand-foraged botanicals, such as thyme and lemon balm, from the meadows surrounding the lake. We really like this full-bodied, fresh and versatile gin, and hope you do, too. In this, the inaugural edition of Gin Journal, we take you to magical Lake Como. We meet the makers of RIVO Gin, give you tips on how best to experience all this holiday destination has to offer and share a shortlist of other stand-out gins from across Italy. Enjoy!
Andrew Burge Founder, Gin Society
VISIT US AT WWW.GINSOCIETY.COM
MEET THE MAKERS
Gianna Percassi and Marco Rivolta are the mother and son co-founders of RIVO Gin. The pair established the Lake Comobased family business in 2016. We spoke to Marco to learn more about what makes RIVO Gin unique.
Images credit: RIVO Gin
RIVO Gin is very much inspired by – and a product of – Lake como. Early one spring morning in 2014, looking out across the lake (as he often did), Marco said to his mother, “There has to be a way to distil this beauty and bottle it forever!” The duo set out to make it happen, spending two years conducting research with a particular focus on identifying what botanicals they could forage locally to use in their gin.
Gianna’s keen interest in foraging and cultivating herbs made laying this groundwork an easier and more gratifying undertaking. Marco and his mum got started with 50 botanicals, eventually narrowing that number down to 30. After microdistilling and testing different combinations, they found the perfect blend of 12 botanicals, which they now use in their RIVO Gin.
Three times a year, expert botanists walk miles along the lake’s mountainous slopes to forage for the botanicals used in rivo gin. Thyme, lemon balm, summer savory and anise are among the local herbs that Gianna and local botanists handpick from the meadows surrounding Lake Como. The gin makers then add these foraged botanicals to juniper, coriander, cardamom and angelica. “Three times a year, expert botanists walk miles along the lake’s mountainous slopes to harvest them,” says Marco.
Local women have for centuries foraged the mountainside meadows for herbs and flowers to prepare traditional medicines and remedies.
RIVO is distilLed at one of italy’s oldest distilleries.
“Once they’ve found the right spots, they pick only the best botanicals by hand. It takes lots of time and skill but is also a deeply satisfying labour of love.” This pursuit is not new to Lake Como, Marco adds. Local women have for centuries foraged the mountainside meadows for herbs and flowers to prepare traditional medicines and remedies. RIVO distils its gin at one of Italy’s oldest distilleries, Antica Distilleria Quaglia, using Italian pure grain alcohol. The makers macerate each of RIVO Gin’s 12 botanicals separately, distil them
individually and then gradually assemble them. The process involves no additives, sugars or artificial ingredients. And RIVO produces a maximum of 2,500 bottles from each batch. The result is a fresh, full-bodied and versatile gin. Marco describes it as a complex, floral and robust spirit with 43 per cent alcohol. “The finish is long with a fade of herbs,” he says. It’s a winning combination that has seen RIVO receive international accolades, including a gold medal at the World Spirits Award 2017 and silver at the Los Angeles International Spirits Competition 2017. These are impressive accomplishments for a small family business that’s just three years old. www.rivogin.com
RIVO HAND-PICKS ONLY THE BEST BOTANICALS.
Foraging in Australia Food foraging has really taken off in Australia in recent years. Flowers, herbs, plants, weeds and fruit are just some of the ingredients you can find in parks and gardens, in the bush, at the beach and even in your own backyard.
B
ig-name chefs, such as Noma’s René Redzepi, Ben Shewry of Attica in Melbourne and Biota’s James Viles in Bowral, are leading this culinary scavenger-hunt-like trend, which stems from a desire to take a more sustainable and informed approach to what we eat. The key to successful foraging is knowing not only what’s safe and edible, but also where you can legally forage. For example, laws often differ between states and territories, and can vary depending on the items for which you’re foraging. With private property, of course – even with something as simple as fruit overhanging a fence – it’s best to ask the owner. In general, it’s important to be sensitive to Foraging stems from the environment in which you’re a desire to take a more foraging and considerate of how sustainable and informed much you take. approach to what we eat. For those new to this movement, learning from a professional is a great way to get your feet wet.
Chefs, botanists, indigenous guides and educators are conducting all manner of foraging workshops, tours and even specialty trips across Australia. For instance, Josh Whiteland of Koomal Dreaming Cultural Experiences in southwest Australia hosts tours that introduce visitors to the native foods and bush medicine of the area’s traditional owners, the Wadandi and Bibbulman people. Italian-born wild-foods advocate Diego Bonetto runs urban foraging workshops across Sydney, and in Victoria’s Yarra Valley, Doris Pozzi, author Get Involved of Edible Weeds WA: Koomal Dreaming Cultural Experiences, and Garden Plants www.koomaldreaming.com.au of Melbourne, also NSW: Diego Bonetto, www.diegobonetto.com guides foraging VIC: Edible Weeds and Garden Plants of walks and workMelbourne, www.edibleweeds.com.au shops.
The Negroni A N
I T A L I A N
C L A S S I C
Internationally, the Negroni has enjoyed a steady rise in popularity in recent years, but this classic cocktail has long been an Italian favourite. Legend has it that Count Camillo Negroni invented the Negroni in 1919. A frequent traveller to London, the nobleman developed a taste for gin. Upon his return to Italy, he asked his local bartender to swap the soda in his Americano for gin. Other patrons then began to ask for the drink, and soon after, it became known as the Negroni in honour of the count who originated it.
Traditionally enjoyed as an aperitif, this bittersweet rubyred cocktail comprises equal parts Campari, gin and sweet vermouth. Pour one part (30ml) of each into a short, ice-filled tumbler. Stir. Garnish with a slice of orange or a twist of orange peel. Now, all you need to do is find yourself a place in the sun with a view, sit back and enjoy.
TWIST OF ORANGE PEEL
1 PART CAMPARI
1 PART GIN
1 PART SWEET VERMOUTH
The tranquillity and natural beauty of Lake Como in Italy’s Lombardy region have long enchanted holiday-makers seeking a luxury escape. An approximately 90-minute drive from Milan, Lake Como (or Lago di Como, as it’s known locally) is Italy’s third largest lake. Surrounded by towering mountains, the lake is dotted with picturesque historic towns and villages, each with their own appeal. The cities of Como and Lecco and the towns of Bellagio, Tremezzo, Menaggio and Varenna are among the must-visits.
Here, pastel-coloured houses sit beside palatial lakeside villas, the cobbled streets of each town and village revealing to visitors a rich history of churches, galleries, gardens and monuments. Just beyond these towns and villages lay farms, olive groves and wineries – home to the local producers who shape the tastes of this region. Read our guide on where to eat, drink, stay and play in Lake Como – a truly idyllic Italian escape.
Materia’s chef Davide Caranchini
EAT
Materia
You’ll find a diverse dining scene in Lake Como, where Michelin-starred fine dining and romantic lakeside restaurants neighbour rustic family-run trattorias and enticing eateries led by a new wave of inventive chefs bringing their modern take to traditional Como fare. From freshly caught fish and local wines to artisan alpine produce, the best dining experiences in Lake Como offer a taste of the region on a plate. Not sure where to dine? Don’t worry; it’s hard to go wrong. Ask your host or a local in the know for the best places to eat in town, or try one of our three top picks.
Via Cinque Giornate 32, Cernobbio
Materia is a modern, understated restaurant in Cernobbio, with innovative chef Davide Caranchini – who trained at Denmark’s famed Noma restaurant, among other European culinary hotspots – at its helm. The focus here is on highquality, seasonal ingredients (some of which grow on-site in the restaurant’s own greenhouse) paired with a carefully curated wine list of boutique Italian and international wines by sommelier Luca Sberna.
Veranda
Feel Como
Via Armando Diaz 54, Como
Feel Como is a small and contemporary Italian restaurant in the historic centre of Como overseen by husband and wife Federico Beretta and Elisa Forlanelli. Chef Beretta’s food philosophy is simple: to showcase the local ingredients of the region’s artisan producers, farmers and fishermen. Villa d’Este
Cardinal House, Villa d’Este, Via Regina 40, Cernobbio
Veranda is the main restaurant of celebrated five-star luxury hotel Villa d’Este, whose history dates back to 1873. The restaurant overlooks the resort’s sprawling manicured gardens. Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, Veranda offers refined, traditional Italian fine dining using the best local ingredients. Villa d’Este’s executive chef Michele Zambanini oversees the restaurant, whose sophisticated fare accompanies a comprehensive wine list.
Cantina Follie
Via Alessandro Volta, 14/16, Tremezzina
T Bar
Image credit: Grand Hotel Tremezzo
T Bar
Grand Hotel Tremezzo, Via Regina 8, Tremezzina
You don’t have to be a guest to enjoy the luxurious T Bar at the Grand Hotel Tremezzo. This chic terrace bar offers amazing views across the lake and is the perfect place to enjoy a cocktail day or night. Open until midnight, T Bar offers an extensive drinks menu, including cocktails, spirits, wine and more, as well as light meals.
Cantina Follie
Fresco Cocktail Shop
DRINK
Cantina Follie is what you’ve always imagined a classic Italian wine bar to be. Located in Tremezzo, this charming bar and shop consists of a cellar and outdoor terrace. On a warm day, enjoy wine in the sun under the shade of the terrace grapevines along with a platter of local antipasti. You can also buy bottles to go of your favourite drop from the retail shop.
Lake Como offers countless spots to enjoy a drink, from sophisticated cocktail bars and centuryold enotecas to open-air aperitivo bars and humble local establishments. Here are three we fancy for imbibing Italianstyle.
Viale Lecco 23, Como
With its cosy stone and wood interior and shelves lined with bottles of spirits, Fresco is an intimate cocktail bar in Como with a buzzing and friendly atmosphere. Here, knowledgeable, waistcoat-wearing bartenders serve up delicious classic and innovative cocktails, often with a small side of tasty Italian antipasti.
VILLA LÀRIO
Via Giacomo Matteotti 25, Pognana Lario
Nestled in a cliff face and surrounded by gardens and lake views, Villa Làrio is a small luxury hotel offering a tranquil Lake Como stay. Located on the eastern side of the lake in the village of Pognana Lario, it includes a lakeside infinity pool, a private pontoon, and a restaurant and bar.
Grand Hotel Tremezzo
GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO
STAY
From small, charming guesthouses to sophisticated suites in sprawling lakeside villas and designer hotels, Lake Como has accommodation to suit your style and your particular brand of lakeside holiday. This trio of special places to rest your head top our list.
Via Regina 8, Tremezzina
The opulent Grand Hotel Tremezzo sits on the edge of the lake with stunning views of Bellagio and the Grigne mountains. Established in 1910, this historic Art Nouveau hotel houses 90 lavish rooms and suites, and features a beach, three swimming pools, a day spa, three bars and two restaurants. The hotel and its adjoining property, Villa Emilia, sit among a tranquil, century-old 20,000-square-metre park.
IL SERENO
Via Torrazza 10, Torno
Il Sereno. Image credit: Patricia Parinejad
Villa Làrio. Image credit: villalario.com
Boasting a scenic lakefront location on Lake Como’s eastern shore in Torno, this intimate luxury hotel is the work of renowned Milan-based designer and architect Patricia Urquiola. Modern and elegantly understated, Il Sereno features 30 spacious suites; an infinity pool and bar; a day spa; a private beach; and its own Michelin-starred restaurant, Berton Al Lago, helmed by reputed chef Andrea Berton.
Experience the local food and wine in a different way by taking a cooking class. Local restaurants, cooking schools and hotels offer a variety of options. Villa Làrio’s resident chef, for example, runs weekly cooking classes for its guests. Alternatively, take a wine tour of the nearby Valtellina Valley. Ask your concierge for recommendations and help with bookings. http://villalario.com
Take in the natural beauty of the area with a hike or a bike ride. In the warmer months, water ferries also frequently run between the villages and towns, or you can hire a private boat to explore the lake at your leisure. Up-market hotels often have boats available for guests’ use.
Fancy yourself a pilot? Take a flying lesson in a seaplane with Aero Club Como. Alternatively, book a private flight to enjoy spectacular bird’s-eye views of the lake and surrounds. www.aeroclubcomo.com
PLAY For those craving more from their holiday than simply lounging by the lake or the lido (though these are certainly lovely ways to spend your getaway), Lake Como offers plenty to see and do.
Play a round of golf at one of Lake Como’s local courses, such as the Villa d’Este Golf Club or Menaggio & Cadenabbia Golf Club.
www.villadeste.com/en/ sport/golf-club-villa-d-este and www.menaggio.org/en
Get active on the water. Lake Como is the ultimate water-sports playground. In addition to swimming, you can go waterskiing, kayaking, windsurfing, rowing, diving and more.
Relax and rejuvenate at one of the lake region’s luxe day spas, such as The Beauty Farm at the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni or the CastaDiva Spa and Wellness Centre. www.beautyfarm-spa.com/eng/ and www.castadivaresort.com/ luxury-spa-lake-como.aspx
Shop the local stores, designer boutiques and department stores in Como, Bellagio and some of the other larger towns. The region is renowned for its silk production, so indulge in a bit of retail therapy for silk clothing and accessories at some of the area’s many silk outlets.
Villa del Balbianello
Immerse yourself in heritage and culture. Many of Lake Como’s villages and towns are home to ancient villas, museums, galleries, churches and monuments, which offer you unique opportunities to glimpse its rich history. Don’t miss Villa del Balbianello, a glorious 18th-century mansion that featured in the James Bond film Casino Royale and boasts some of the most glorious views in the area. The magnificent Villa Carlotta, which includes botanical gardens and a museum, is another mustsee attraction. www.villacarlotta.it and www.fondoambiente.it/villa-delbalbianello-eng
Di st ill er ie Im
ag e
cr ed it:
Po li
Marconi 46 Marconi 46 is produced by Poli, an artisan distillery in Venuto reputed for its grappa and brandies, which the Poli family has run since its establishment in 1898. Marconi 46 is an aromatic, smooth gin made with botanicals from juniper berries, muscat grapes, mountain pine, cembra pine, mint, coriander and cardamom.
I
n i G
S
Sh
or
e
Italy is fast developing a reputation for its artisan gin. For many of these spirits, their unique point of difference is that they source ingredients from the local region in which they’re produced. Here are seven Italian gins on the Gin Society’s radar.
tli
st
Th
n Gi n a i l t a o c i e ty s
Im
ag
e
cr ed it:
M
AL
FY
Gi
n
MALFY Gin Distilled at the Torino Distillati in Moncalieri, just outside Turin, the original MALFY Gin is a crisp and dry spirit. Made with Italian juniper and five other botanicals, including coriander, angelica and cassia bark, it is blended with spring water from the nearby Monviso mountain. The MALFY Gin range also includes gins made with lemon, Sicilian pink grapefruit and Sicilian blood orange.
Im
ag
e
cr ed
it:
Pi
lz
er
Di
st il
Im
ag e
cr ed it:
Gi
as s
Gi
n
GinPilz Established in 1956, Pilzer is a family-run distillery in the Cembra Valley near Trentino in northern Italy. Reputed for its grappas and fruit brandies, the company also makes an impressive gin product. Its GinPilz incorporates local pure mountain spring water and a mix of herbs, such as juniper, and fruit, including orange and lemon.
le r
ia
Im
ag
e
cr ed
it:
VI
IH
ill
s
VII Hills Italian Dry Gin In Moncalieri, just outside Turin, the Vergnano family of master distillers makes VII Hills using traditional Italian methods. This aromatic, fruity and juniper-led dry gin takes its name from the seven hills surrounding Rome, where the seven botanicals the company uses in its product naturally grow.
Giass Milano Dry Gin A Milanese take on a London dry gin, Giass is a complex spirit that features 18 botanicals. These include classic notes of juniper berry, coriander and angelica root rounded out with fruit, floral, mineral and citrate notes. Giass won silver at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2017 and World Spirits Awards 2018.
Gil Vecchio Magazzino Doganale, whose history dates back to 1871, produces Gil ‘The Authentic Rural Gin’ in Italy’s Calabria region. Made in small batches, this smooth spirit employs a distinct filtration process that sees it poured through a simple linen cloth. Locally sourced juniper and lemons are Gil’s dominant notes.
io
ch ec :V
M
o
zin
az
ag
le
na
ga
Do
it
a
ge
Im
ed cr
Fred Jerbis 43 Fred Jerbis handcrafts small-batch spirits in eastern Italy. The company’s gin offering, Fred Jerbis 43, is born of a secret recipe that traces back to 1946. This balanced and delicate gin comprises 43 herbs and features 43 per cent alcohol – hence, its name. Credit for its straw-yellow colour goes to a cold infusion of orange blossom and saffron.
e ag
Im it:
ed cr ed Fr is rb
Je
Each month, a Gin Society expert shares their review as well as a cocktail recipe featuring our gin of the month. First up is Timo van Hest’s take on RIVO Gin.
The Review RIVO Gin
w:
GIN REVIEW
4.4
5
Timo’s tasting notes RIVO’s nose delivers a big hit of juniper supported by fresh lemon balm and some piny resin, with a faint hint of cardamom in the background. The first sip is oily, with a slight prickling sensation that gives way to a mint-nettle freshness. Simultaneously bright and earthy, RIVO has a long, constantly developing palate. After a moment, a warming, orange-cardamom flavour develops into a creamy marzipan finish, with a hint of licorice root on the last breath. When you enjoy RIVO with a highquality, unflavoured tonic, loads of cooking-spice notes – cardamom, cinnamon and some nutmeg – replace the minty, citrusy notes. A refreshingly complex gin.
Flavour Profile Profiled by Timo van Hest exclusively for the Gin Society.
JUNIPER
72
CITRUS FLORAL HEAT HERBAL
26
18
30
42
SPICE
84
Graded out of 100
GIN SOCIETY EXPERT
Name: TIMO VAN HEST Works at: SAVILE ROW, BRISBANE Timo has worked in a variety of bars and restaurants for more than five years. He’s found the most satisfaction in service-driven cocktail bars where consumers get more than just a tasty libation – they get an experience and an opportunity to learn about the history of a drink or information about the types of ingredients in it. He tries to stay abreast of drink trends but won’t pretend that he doesn’t enjoy a Malibu and pineapple or a cold shandy on a hot afternoon – or when he’s hungover. On days off, you’ll find him out on his motorbike, doing yoga or trying to make pickles.
Cocktail recipe designed for RIVO
The Lakeside Using RIVO Gin, this month’s resident expert, Timo van Hest, has concocted The Lakeside, a specialty cocktail exclusively for Gin Journal.
50ml RIVO Gin 15ml Oscar 697 Extra Dry Vermouth 30ml freshly squeezed lime juice 15ml sugar syrup 1 bar spoon of pastis (Ricard or similar) Lemon balm leaf, to garnish Combine all ingredients in a cocktail shaker. Shake robustly until chilled. Using a fine strainer, pour the drink into a cocktail coupe. Garnish with a single lemon balm leaf and serve immediately.
JOIN THE
The Gin Society strives to indulge its members with rare, premium gins that you won’t find at your average local bottle shop. Instead, we look to innovative Aussie makers and intriguing overseas distilleries. We at the Gin Society fell in love not only with the exquisite taste of gin, but also with the stories that surround the distilling and making of this delicious, versatile spirit. It’s what’s driven us to explore and learn more about the fascinating world of gin. Creating gin is both a science
and an art form, and we want to share the spirit and its stories with our membership. As keen gin-thusiasts ourselves, we’ve travelled the globe, learning, experiencing and, yes, tasting what’s available for keen gin lovers worldwide. We want to help cultivate gin’s rapidly growing market as well as showcase inventive ways for drinkers to enjoy it that extend well beyond the classic G&T. Whether you’re in it for the cocktails, the events or just the
relaxing release of a crisp, classic gin at the end of a long day, the Gin Society is here for you.
VISIT US AT GINSOCIETY.COM
HOW DOES IT WORK? The Gin Society aims to showcase gins from premium small distilleries – whether it be craft, local, international or something a little different – with a community of likeminded gin-thusiasts. As a member of the Gin Society, you’ll receive a full-sized bottle of gin every month. Our team of experts, who are always on the lookout for exclusive, rare, unique or simply delicious gins, will carefully select your bottle.
Every month, a copy of the Gin Journal will accompany our chosen spirit. This magazine is the ultimate guide to your gin, featuring botanical information, tasting notes, and more delicious details on its place of origin and production methods. To welcome you as a member, we’ve included a free gift with your first delivery. We hope it elevates you to a grand cocktail maker and shaker. As a Gin Society member, you’ll also receive invitations to attend exclusive events to celebrate our favourite tipple.
WANT TO BECOME A GIN SOCIETY MEMBER? Here’s what you need to know. A Gin Society membership costs AU$95 per month (including shipping). With your membership, you’ll receive: an exquisite, fullsized bottle of artisan gin; a little something special to complement the spirit: our custom magazine, Gin Journal. The Gin Society is currently exclusive to Australia.
FREE GIFT Spiegelau perfect serve large crystal mixing glass
RRP $161
Copper bell jigger
Copper bar spoon
Copper Hawthorne strainer
A SPECIAL WELCOME GIFT FOR OUR INAUGURAL SUBSCRIBERS To say thanks for joining the Gin Society, we’re giving our first 200 inaugural subscribers a special gift set – a Spiegelau perfect serve large crystal mixing glass, a copper bar spoon, a copper Hawthorne strainer and a copper bell jigger. It’s the perfect kit for making cocktails with each of the special gins heading your way every month!
Visit us now at GinSociety.com
The Gin Society proudly brings you the Gin Journal.
www.ginsociety.com