LITTLE JUNIPER GIN by ginsociety

THE LITTLE JUNIPER EDITION

HAHNDORF, SOUTH AUSTRALIA

MAN PLAYING ACCORDION ON THE STREET NEAR A GERMAN VILLAGE SHOP IN HAHNDORF, ADELAIDE HILLS

FOUNDER’S

WELCOME

Welcome to the latest edition of the Gin Journal – no matter where you are around the country, we hope you’ve been enjoying a tipple or two despite the challenges of the pandemic. For this issue, we’re continuing our epic journey to unearth some of Australia’s finest craft gins. So welcome to the beautiful foothills of Adelaide, home of Little Juniper Distilling. This hidden gem won’t remain a secret for much longer. After collecting huge gongs at both London and San Francisco this year, it won’t be long before

LITTLE JUNIPER SIGNATURE GIN IS A 42% STRENGTH SPIRIT, CERTIFIED ORGANIC, VEGAN AND GLUTEN FREE.

Stuart Mackenzie is a household name among gin admirers. Not bad for a selftaught distiller! We also hear from a legend in the spirts world: Marcel Thompson. An awardwinning distiller in his own right, Marcel made waves at United Distillers before turning his attention to the written word. His first book, Still Magic, is essential reading for anyone looking to dive into the wild world of gin-making. Marcel also brings gin’s centuries-long history to life in his effortlessly listenable podcast. There’s our regular edition of the Ginsider, as well as a detailed review of Little Juniper Signature Gin. Plus, there’s a handful of classic yet divine cocktails for you to mix and enjoy at home. As always, you can drop us a line at hello@ginsociety.com. We hope you enjoy this immaculate South Australian gin as much as we do! Cheers!

Andrew Burge Founder, Gin Society

VISIT US AT WWW.GINSOCIETY.COM

Con

4 LITTLE JUNIPER SIGNATURE GIN

24 THE GIN LIST

a solo distiller’s dream

16 COCKTAIL HOUR 4 Little Juniper Signature Gin cocktails

21 MARCEL THOMPSON

5 must-try South Australian gins

28 THERE IS NO NEGRONI WITHOUT CAMPARI

Campari: the red heart of every negroni

the life and times of gingenius Marcel Thompson

The Gin Society team

Founder: Andrew Burge Director: Jagdev Singh Creative Director: Annah Lansdown Head of IT: Chris Richardson Membership Relations: Emily Prunty Designer: Tori Gibson Editor: Simon Jones

LITTLE JUNIPER GIN

ntents 33 PASSIONATE ABOUT SOURCING LOCAL Ambleside Distillers

34 THE GINSIDER with Marcel Thompson

42 THE REVIEW

38 THE NEGRONI

our NEW Italian classic

with the Martini Whisperer

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A Solo Distiller’s Dream S U STA I N A B L E, O RG AN I C , A WA RD - WI N N I N G : THE STORY OF LITTLE JUNIPER The pandemic turned Stuart Mackenzie’s future on its head - in the best way possible. Here’s how this gin genius spun a one-man distilling operation into an international award-winner.

A QUIET G&T AT HOM E Everyone remembers their first. First kiss. First house. First child. For Stuart, the mastermind behind Little Juniper Distilling, his first was an old-school cocktail under his parents roof. He was just 14 years old when he first took a sip of his mother’s gin and tonic. That was all it took – Stuart was hooked.

STUART’S SUGGESTED SERVES: BOTH CAPI DRY AND FEVERTREE MEDITERRANEAN WILL BRING OUT SOME OF THOSE PUNCHIER FLORALS AND FRUITS IN LITTLE JUNIPER SIGNATURE GIN.

LITTLE JUNIPER G&T

LITTLE JUNIPER G&T • 45mL Little Juniper • 90mL CAPI Dry Tonic or Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic • Garnish with either of the following: • A sprig of rosemary • Dehydrated grapefruit • Dehydrated blood orange Tip: Depending on how strong you like your gin you may prefer to go with a 3:1 ratio of tonic to gin, but we like to taste the botanicals in our gin.

G I N

One night, his godfather filled up an empty port barrel

M E M B E R

“My godfather worked for Penfolds and Hardys in the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s, so I remember hearing stories about how he and Dad would head to the warehouse on weekends when it was closed to bottle their own wine,” he says. “As a teenager, those stories always fascinated me.”

“

MY GODFATHER WORKED FOR PENFOLDS AND HARDYS IN THE ’60S, ’70S AND ’80S, SO I REMEMBER HEARING STORIES ABOUT HOW HE AND DAD WOULD HEAD TO THE WAREHOUSE ON WEEKENDS WHEN IT WAS CLOSED TO BOTTLE THEIR OWN WINE,” HE SAYS. “AS A TEENAGER, THOSE STORIES ALWAYS FASCINATED ME.”

“

Before finding a career in distilling, Stuart took a lengthy – and successful – detour into the world of visual effects, but when you hear about his childhood it’s hard to imagine he could be born for anything else.

with all sorts of concoctions, only to be forgotten about entirely until many years later. When Stuart finally got around to pouring himself a sneaky drop, his spark for alchemy took flight. “It was the most delicious port I’ve ever tasted. God knows what he put in there, but it was fantastic.” 7

B I L D I N G

L I F E

A R O U N D

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STUART MACKENZIE

FINDING TIME F O R T H E PA S S I O N

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With a non-compete clause forcing Stuart to sit on his hands for the next few months, he figured it was high time he focused on that hobby of his. It was time to start planning his future distillery. Little did Stuart know that COVID would throw even his most conservative plans out the window.

G I N

Then, in October 2019, just months before anyone would hear about a global pandemic that would wipe out countless startups, Stuart made a decision.

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I QUIT FULL-TIME WORK, CREATED MY LITTLE MEDIA AGENCY AND HAD A FIVE TO 10-YEAR GOAL TO START UP LITTLE JUNIPER.

M E M B E R

Working 80-plus hours a week in the VFX industry meant Stuart’s teenage fancies didn’t immediately translate into a career in the drinks sector. He continued to build his well of knowledge for distilling in his spare time - incredibly, the award-winning distiller is entirely self-taught - but there were never enough hours in the day to commit himself to such a time-consuming hobby.

B U I L D I N G

L I F E

A R O U N D

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FALLING INTO PLACE As tends to happen with small passions, Stuart found himself spending far more time developing the Little Juniper brand than his own media agency. He perfected his business plan, acquired the necessary licences, and worked with the council to approve a distilling operation in his own garage. “I’d built my house five years prior with the whole idea being to build it around my garage,“ Stuart laughs. “It was always intended to be my distillery, so I could start off small depending on my finances.” Of course, he hadn’t told council about that idea at the time. Instead, he said he

needed so much space and such high ceilings in his garage for photography projects. They ummed and ahhed for 12 months before it was approved, but when Stuart got back in touch with them about opening his distillery in that very space, the penny dropped. They had a bit of a chuckle and asked if it was always in the back of my mind. “It literally took a year, including arbitration to get the house approved because of the garage. And then when I spoke to them about approval for the distillery they said yes over the phone!”

“

WE LOVE TO GARNISH WITH FRESH BLOOD ORANGE. LET IT SIT FOR A MINUTE AND WATCH THE COLOURS BLEED INTO THE DRINK.

M E M B E R G I N

THE MAGIC OF GIN-MAKING Perhaps it was a harbinger

of things to come, but that excitement to see Little Juniper succeed has followed Stuart throughout this entire journey. He’s currently looking to shift operations to a larger warehouse and there’s no shortage of local councillors who want him to set up shop in their area. After hearing about Little Juniper’s recent gongs at both London and San Francisco (picking up a Gold Medal at the SF World Spirits Competition), that attention will only grow.

“The day I turned it on, I ran a batch through and it came out the other end only needing one tiny a d j u s t m e n t ,” Stuart muses. “So I adjusted it and the recipe The transition from his first hasn’t changed since. garage batch to becoming an internationally “I just sat there that morning awarded gin has been and went, ‘Holy shit. I’ve swift. And like so many just distilled a gin that tastes genius concoctions, the pretty good and I’ve never magic happened almost even done this before.’” immediately.

“

combination. All the usual players are there – juniper, coriander, angelica, cassia, orris, ginger and cardamom. But there are also warming spices like liquorice root, fennel and star anise. Then there’s the kaffir lime and blood orange, the locally picked pink peppercorns, the rosemary and bay leaves, and even a beautiful hint of lavender.

G I N

With 21 botanicals, you’ll be able to find a different note with each sip and with every cocktail

“HANS” - STUART’S COMMERCIAL ROTARY EVAPORATOR USED FOR TESTING THE BOTANICALS ONLY

M E M B E R

Whether it was the hours of self-education or the influence of his parents and godfather, Stuart has crafted a gin that people adore for its unique flavours and versatility. “I call it a bit of a gateway gin because even people who haven’t drunk gin for a long time or say they hate it, they sip it neat and say it’s fantastic. Then when you mix it with a tonic like a CAPI Dry or a FeverTree Mediterranean, it really brings out some of those punchier florals and fruits.”

THE ROAD AHEAD Stuart is quietly confident about the future, but understands that coronavirus doesn’t play by anyone’s rulebook. “Who could have predicted COVID? And what’s the next thing: a plague of locusts? At the moment, I’m focused on finding a new space and expanding our range.” Mum’s the word when it comes to the recipes Stuart’s been hiding in his back pocket, but lovers of Little Juniper will have a few more spirits to try – and a fantastic cellar door to visit – in the near future.

SUSTAINABILITY DRIVES LITTLE JUNIPER

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Having two children of my own and looking at what’s going on in the world, I always said to myself: ‘If I’m ever going to do anything that will use any type of resource, it’s got to be sustainable,” he says. “If I’m creating a business and profiting off of something, then it can’t be anything that’s going to negatively affect the environment.

“

From the moment Little Juniper Distilling transformed from a dream into a reality, it’s been rooted in sustainability. This eco - conscious outlook is something that Stuart’s mother instilled in him, and it’s been a central figure in his business decision making.

So it’s perhaps unsurprising that you won’t find anything non organic in Little Juniper spirits – from the botanicals to the ethanol to the Portuguese timber bottle stoppers, and even the recycled glass from France. “It was always factored in,” he says. “It’s not like we’ve gone from being non-organic to organic, because if you did that you would be gobsmacked at what some of the costs can be. “I had a local coriander supplier ring me and offer $6 per kilogram. I thought that was really good, super cheap, and he told me he deals a lot with big distilleries. But when I asked if he was organic he said, ‘No,

I have enough trouble just growing the stuff, let alone being organic.” The coriander in Little Juniper Signature Gin ended up costing almost five times as much, but for Stuart it’s a no-brainer. “For me, it’s all about that sustainability. It’s about knowing that these things are grown on farms that don’t use pesticides, and without using slave labour like in certain countries.“I know that what I’m creating isn’t having a negative effect on the environment.” https://littlejuniper.com.au 15

L I L

M U L E Even the classics can be reborn when using the right gin. Here, distiller Stuart Mackenzie shares four delicious cocktail recipes to try with your own bottle of Little Juniper Signature Gin.

IN THE MOOD FOR SOMETHING DELICIOUSLY DIFFERENT? THIS RIFF ON THE CLASSIC MOSCOW MULE COCKTAIL WILL HAVE YOUR MOUTH WATERING.

INGREDIENTS

60mL Little Juniper Signature Gin 30mL simple syrup 30mL freshly squeezed lime juice 120mL ginger beer (not ginger ale) 5 mint leaves, to garnish Lime wedge, to garnish

Add ice to a large glass or copper mug. Pour gin, then stir in the syrup and lime juice. Top up with ginger beer. Garnish with lime wedge and mint leaves. (Feel free to adjust lime and syrup ratios depending on your preferred sweetness level.)

L I T T L E

J U N I P E R

N E G R O N I

ONE OF STUART’S FAVOURITE DRINKS, THIS LITTLE JUNIPER-LED NEGRONI IS AN EXCEPTIONAL PLAY ON A CLASSIC COCKTAIL AND PACKED WITH FLAVOUR.

INGREDIENTS

1 part Little Juniper Signature Gin 1 part Okar Island Bitter 1 part sweet vermouth

Fill large mixing glass with ice. Add all three ingredients and gently stir with a cocktail spoon until icy cold. Strain while pouring into a pre-chilled glass filled with fresh ice. 17

C L O V E R

C L U B

A GREAT COCKTAIL FOR THOSE WHO LOVE THE SWEETNESS OF FRESH RASPBERRIES.

INGREDIENTS

45 mL Little Juniper Signature Gin 30 mL lemon Juice 30 mL of fresh/frozen raspberries or raspberry syrup 15 mL simple syrup (not needed if raspberry syrup is used) Egg white

Add all ingredients except the egg white into an empty cocktail shaker. Fill the shaker with ice and shake vigorously. Double-strain and discard the ice. Add 1 egg white to the mix and shake vigorously for a further 10 seconds. Pour your cocktail into a chilled cocktail glass and garnish with a raspberry or two...or three.

T O M

C O L L I N S

A SIMPLE BUT REFRESHING ALTERNATIVE TO A G&T, THE LITTLE JUNIPER TOM COLLINS IS A GREAT SUMMER DRINK.

INGREDIENTS

45 mL Little Juniper Signature Gin 30 mL lemon Juice 22.5 mL simple syrup Soda water

Stir the ingredients then top up with soda. Squeeze a lemon wedge over the top, then drop it in as a garnish.

Why Marcel Thompson is ‘Still Magic’ in the gin scene He’s distilled some of the biggest gin brands in the world, but today Marcel Thompson is more interested in sharing his gin knowledge with the next generation. WORKING BACKWARDS TO THE STILL

To say Marcel has been around the gin block a few times does a disservice to not just the man himself, but the impact he’s had on the industry across Asia-Pacific. From humble beginnings as a graduate in New Zealand to building new markets in places like Fiji and Papua New Guinea, Marcel has seen and done more than many of us could hope to achieve in a lifetime.

Marcel Thompson’s leg “

I was fortunate enough to receive three job offers; one was making pharmaceuticals, another one was making explosives, and the third one was making gin. I thought gin looked the best because it didn’t involve anything to do with life or death.” It probably helped that the gig was just a five-minute train ride from home, and although he started off in dispatching and then worked his way back into the still house, Marcel says the whole experience was what set him up for future success in the industry. “Interestingly, it was the job that paid the least amount of money, but it gave me the start I needed. I learned a lot about gin and the spirits industry in general. That was a highlight because it set the tone for an outstanding experience and an amazing journey thereafter.”

By the time he finally ended up at an actual still, Marcel had already learnt most of what he needed to become a distiller. “My induction started with the end in mind. By the time I’d finished this, I knew where the products went, who wanted them, how they were made, what the qualitycontrol measures were, how to

apply filtration, how to run pipes, valves and pumps, and vat gallery works – I learnt all of these things long before entering the gin stillhouse.”

A DARK-AND-STORMY CONCOCTION

During that first stage of his career, Marcel was entrusted to distil some of the biggest gin brands in existence – Tanqueray, Gordon’s, Booth’s High & Dry, Boodles. “As a 21-year-old, I didn’t realise how privileged I was at being in that situation.” After his early foray into gin, Marcel jumped at the chance to join United Distillers’ Australian operation in the early ’90s. It was here, in the R&D department, that Marcel really found his rhythm. Looking back on his career today, with a multitude of works including books and podcasts all focused on gin, it’s remarkable that one of Marcel’s biggest contributions to the drinks space had nothing to do with gin at all. Instead, rum was the leading character. “The R&D work was predominantly around premix products, which were very popular in the ‘90s,” Marcel says. “As luck would have it, the first project I worked on in 1993 was Bundaberg Dark & Stormy.

“

But finding his place in the spirits world wasn’t always so clear-cut. After completing his Bachelor of Science (Mathematics, Chemistry) at the University of Auckland in 1987, Marcel found himself with three job offers.

“It was really a case of putting all the elements together. You’ve got a rum specialist, you’ve got a soft drink specialist, and you’ve got a

gacy to gin-thusiasts sugar production specialist. It was really about trying to merge those skill sets together to come up with a product which I’m still very proud of today.” That simple marketing concept resulted into 10,000 cases in May of 1993 – and the Bundy Dark & Stormy never looked back .

STILL MAGIC: A BY-PRODUCT OF HAPPENSTANCE

Marcel considers himself immensely lucky to have experienced so much over the life of his career, so it’s perhaps unsurprising that he’s chosen to continue that knowledge sharing in his own way. First was the release of his book, Still Magic: A Gin Distiller’s Guide for Beginners. “In 2014, an actor, a banker and a business owner walked into a bar,” Marcel quips. “We started talking about starting a gin distillery, and then came the question: ‘If you’re a beginner and you want to learn how to make gin, is there a book for that?’ I paused for a moment and said, ‘I don’t think so. And if there is, it must be very, very difficult to find.’” That meeting sparked a kernel of an idea that quickly snowballed into Marcel’s first published work. His second book, which is set for release later this year, will guide

readers on the next steps as a ginmaker. In all things, Marcel’s unique and storied career should convince any would-be gin-thusiast that there are plenty of opportunities out there to make your mark on the industry.

GIN TALES FROM THE MASTER CRAFTERS

Marcel hasn’t just mastered the art of the written word. He’s also taken to the audio format with his very own podcast, also called Still Magic. With 40 episodes available right now, it’s the perfect way to get your daily dose of gin-tertainment. “Distillers, by and large, are interesting people,” Marcel says. “They also are reluctant to speak about what they do, and I realise this because I’m a distiller myself. “There are lots of interesting people who have very generously afforded time to speak with me. So if you listen to the episodes on The Distiller’s Voice, you’ll see why it’s called that. Once you get a distiller started, you can’t stop them.” From some of the finest distilleries overseas to our favourite gin crafters here in Australia, Marcel spends time exploring what really makes these spirits specialists tick. We recommend checking out Episode 33 from earlier this year where Marcel got to dive-deep with Stuart Mackenzie, crafter of Little Juniper Distilling. pod.co/still-magic stillmagic.net

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The Gin List Applewood Coral Gin

MUST-TRY SOUTH AUSTRALIAN GINS

South Australia is home to a host of top-notch craft gin makers. Here’s our pick of five you just have to try. APPLEWOOD CORAL GIN

Inspired by The Great Barrier Reef and it’s tropical surrounds, the aromatics of strawberry gum, fragrant spice of riberries and the salinity of Karkalla, Coral Gin speaks true to captivating Australian seascape. Mix with good-quality dry tonic and garnish with pink peppercorns and vanilla.

25 www.applewooddistillery.com.au

APPLEWOOD GIN A botanical-rich profile of rare desert limes, native wattleseed and aromatic peppermint gum leaf amongst 20 fresh and sustainably farmed ingredients, handcrafted to reflect the sites and soils of the land we belong to - for the lifestyle and culture we enjoy in Australia. Mix with good quality dry tonic and garnish with lemon peel and wild thyme or lemon thyme.

APPLEWOOD NAVY Crafted with the highest quantity of juniper they have ever used whilst doubling the volume of the ultra-rare desert limes and Asiatic yuzu elevates the intensity of Applewood gin to boundaries uncrossed. Mix with good-quality dry tonic and garnish with lemon peel.

26 www.applewooddistillery.com.au

SUNSET GIN This gin exhibits notes of fresh red berries, with subtle hints of pine and eucalyptus. Further botanical integration adds depth and complexity, to give the finish great balance and intensity, just like a sunset in some of the remote locations where they are harvested. Mix with Fever-Tree Mediterranean Tonic garnished with the Davidson plums or strawberries and thyme.

DESERT GIN A bold higher-proof gin distilled from a grape base, vapour-infused botanicals and three species of house-roasted native wattleseed. Well balanced, textural and citrus forward the warm palate shows rich underlying flavours of roasted coffee, cocoa and pepper. Mix with FeverTree Mediterranean Tonic garnished with dehydrated blood orange.

27 www.78degrees.com.au

There is no Negroni without Campari Campari and the Negroni are inextricably linked To celebrate Negroni Week (September 13– 19), we take a look into the colourful history of Campari – the first brand ever to be called out as an ingredient in the official Negroni recipe.

The red heart of every negroni

The core of a quality Negroni Ask any traditional gin drinker how to make a Negroni and you will invariably get the same response: equal parts gin, red vermouth and Campari. Not just any bitters. It has to be Campari. Even the International Bartending Association (IBA) recognises how fundamental Campari is to building the cocktail. It is the red heart of every Negroni. There is no Negroni without Campari. So let’s take a stroll down the history of this quintessential gin cocktail.

Negroni

It started with a Cowboy Count

At his favourite café in Florence, Count Camillo Negroni decided to change things up. He’d usually order an Americano, having become interested in cocktails during his time in the United States. While he was an Italian by birth, the Count spent years working as a cowboy in Wyoming before assimilating into the New York bar scene. On this day in 1919, he asked the Caffe Casoni bartender to swap out the soda water in his Americano for dry gin – something he’s acquired a tasted for after his most recent trip to London. All too happy to fulfil his request, the bartender, Fosco Scarselli, garnished his new cocktail creation with an orange rather than a typical lemon peel. One sip later and a timeless classic was born.

The secret remains safe

Whether or not Count Camillo was a cocktail prodigy – or simply lucked out with his inclusion of gin in an Americano – has been lost to the annals of time. What is undeniable, however, is that his unique request resulted in a benchmark cocktail that has remained a staple on cocktail lists around the world. Achieving the perfect balance of bitter, sweet and dry, the Negroni owes a huge debt to one ingredient in particular: the bold and bitter Campari. The genius behind which was Gaspare Campari. A talented liquorist in his own right, the Italian began crafting his magnum opus in 1860. His bittersweet aperitivo defied all that came before it, infusing natural herbs, aromatic plants and fruit in alcohol. Many have tried – and failed – to match Campari’s distinct yet alluring flavour profile, so it’s no wonder the recipe has remained unchanged since its creation. And a closely guarded secretly. 31

An annual tradition

Inspired by the quality of the cocktail and its appreciation in every corner of the globe, people have been participating in Negroni Week since its inception in 2013. Presented by Imbibe Magazine and Campari, the annual celebration has so far raised more than $3 million for various charitable causes around the world. In 2021, at a time when the hospitality industry, particularly bars and bartenders, have been so heavily impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, we hope you’ll make this Negroni Week a time to raise a glass and support those who are doing it particularly tough. negroniweek.com

The perfect Negroni Want to mix a Negroni that even Count Camillo would be proud of? It’s a quick, simple and incredibly imbibable cocktail that will keep you coming back for more. Ingredients 30mL Campari 30mL your favourite London Dry gin 30mL sweet vermouth

Negroni

Method Pour ingredients into a short glass over plenty of ice. Stir to combine and garnish with an orange wedge.

Passionate about sourcing local Ambleside Distillers: founded by a family passionate about creating an authentic local distillery – from the Australianmade copper still to the botanicals grown in their own distillery garden. Located in Hahndorf, Adelaide Hills.

SMALL ACRE GIN

“Small Acre, big flavour! 12 botanicals, some from the distillery’s own garden, make up this punchy gin. Rhubarb, bay leaf, apple and cloves give a savoury zing on the palate. Garnish with some fresh basil and quality floral tonic water.”

BIG DRY GIN

“Big, dry and peppery but not too spicy. Big Dry has notes of rosemary and thyme but what sets this gin apart is the jalapeno used to give the extra kick.”

NO 8 BOTANICAL GIN

“Showcasing zesty citrus flavours of South Australia’s very own organic Riverland oranges - for a botanical gin that is soft and smooth on the palate. Complemented by the distinct flavour of star anise and coriander seed.”

www.amblesidedistillers.com

THE GINSIDER

We sit down for a one-on-one with Marcel Thompson (Ngāti Whātua, Waikato, Ngāti Koata), international award-winning distiller, craft spirits industry advocate, educator, bestselling author and podcast host.

What was your first proper introduction to gin? I learnt to make gin at scale, before I started drinking gin for pleasure. A role as Assistant Distiller for United Distillers (NZ) Limited was my first job, so spirits has played a significant part in my narrative for well over 30 years. It was in this role that I learnt the right way for a distiller to make Tanqueray, Gordon’s, Booth’s High and Dry, Boords and Boodles. When it comes to gin introductions, there are fewer more intense or satisfying experiences. What do you love most about martinis?

“

MA R C EL T H OMPSON

THERE ARE SO MANY WONDERFUL GIN-MAKERS ALL OVER THE GLOBE, EACH WITH THEIR OWN NUANCES. I HAVE GINS FROM AFRICA, SCANDINAVIA AND THE AMERICAS, WHOSE MAKERS PRODUCE GINS THAT ARE THE EMBODIMENT OF THEIR ENVIRONMENT.

LAST WORD COCKTAIL RECIPE 1 part gin 1 part green Chartreuse 1 part maraschino liqueur 1 part lime juice, freshly squeezed Brandied cherry Add the gin, green Chartreuse, maraschino liqueur and lime juice into a shaker with ice and shake until well-chilled. Garnish with a brandied cherry.

What do you love about gin? It’s delicious, vibrant, and relevant with an unmatched range for expression. The imaginative use of botanicals yields so many products, from different areas, resonating with so many, yet created by so few. Most modern producers start from scratch without craft-spirits business experience. In my first book, Still Magic, one of its driving principles is that inexperience is no barrier to success. To me, inexperience is fast becoming a gin-making superpower for contemporary times. What’s not to like about gin as a great spirit, when coupled with the human spirit that goes into making great gin? C

Roku Gin image credit: Beam Suntory

MARCEL’S DESERT ISLAND GINS

T A N Q U E R AY LONDON DRY GIN England One I enjoy as much today as those heady gin-filled days in 1980s New Zealand. Understated class and simplicity. A 19th century giant that remains vibrant and relevant today.

POOR TOMS FOOL’S CUT GIN Australia Described by the International Wines and Spirits Competition (IWSC) judges as having ‘toothsome viscosity’ on the way to winning Gold in 2018. A complex, balanced gin with a great finish. Perfect for my favourite cocktails. Packs the flavour of a navystrength gin without the navy-strength price.

ROKU GIN SELECT EDITION Japan A remarkable expression where east meets west. Superb when neat, great with tonic and a slice of ginger, makes an excellent Martini and a delicious lemon-based Southside. The way this gin manages to deliver a great-tasting experience in so many different formats is what makes Roku a standout.

How do you drink gin? Neat! Once a distiller, always a distiller. That said, I do like Martinis, Negronis, Southsides and Last Word cocktails made with strong, flavoursome gin. My summer quencher go-to is gin with tonic.

Have you tried any new gins lately?

You are a gin-based cocktail – what would you be? That is Gin Society in a nutshell; posing the tough questions! If I were to hazard a guess, perhaps a French 75. In essence, it’s a Southside – the traditional gangster’s tipple from Chicago’s prohibition years – supplemented with champagne. It’s an unlikely array of characteristics where the whole experience exceeds the sum of the parts.

Does a tiger shark bite? Is that a question? Yes! There are so many wonderful gin-makers all over the globe, each with their own nuances. I have gins from Africa, Scandinavia and the Americas, whose makers produce gins that are the embodiment of their environment. That’s what makes gin so remarkable – a simple idea, expressed in a multitude of different ways, all over the globe. A rich tapestry indeed. What is your most memorable gin experience? This is tough as there are so many highlights. But the most profound experience would be my first day as Assistant Distiller, where I experienced the aroma of a gin still charge; assessing the heads, heart and tails fractions, and the surprisingly delicious smell of spent botanicals. It’s sensory overload and one that I will never forget, nor ever want to.

FRENCH 75

What do you like about Gin Society? Gin Society gives gin-makers a voice in the crowd. You provide high-quality published resources for the gincurious, the gin-thusiast and even the gin-sceptic. The in-depth cover stories are excellent and demonstrate gin’s collegial sense of community. Bravo! Carry on, no one will tell you when to stop. MARCEL’S GIN LIST Tanqueray – www.tanqueray.com Poor Toms Fool’s Cut Gin - www.poortoms.com Roku Gin Select Edition - www. rokugin.suntory.com/ en/global

The Negroni A N

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C L A S S I C

Our famous Negroni at 28% ABV features the spectacular Gothic Gin, the exquisite Maidenii Sweet Vermouth and the iconic Campari.

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Legend has it that Count Camillo Negroni invented the Negroni in 1919. A frequent traveller to London, the nobleman developed a taste for gin. Upon his return to Italy, he asked his local bartender to swap the soda in his Americano for gin. Other patrons then began to ask for the drink, and soon after, it became known as the Negroni in honour of the count who originated it. Traditionally enjoyed as an

C L A S S I C aperitif, this bittersweet rubyred cocktail comprises equal parts Campari, gin and sweet vermouth. Pour one part (30ml) of each into a short, ice-filled tumbler. Stir. Garnish with a slice of orange or a twist of orange peel. Now, all you need to do is find yourself a place in the sun with a view, sit back and enjoy. Available now on our website. TWIST OF ORANGE PEEL

1 PART CAMPARI

1 PART GIN

1 PART SWEET VERMOUTH

THE REVIEW: LITTLE JUNIPER Each month, a Gin Society expert reviews our featured spirit of the month. This issue, the talented Phillip A. Jones (aka The Martini Whisperer) takes us on a journey of discovery as we examine the delightful intricacies of Little Juniper Signature Gin.

GIN REVIEW

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PHILLIPS’S TASTING NOTES

s the Martini Whisperer, I’m in the very fortunate position that lovely folks send me some very agreeable things to drink. Sometimes it’s for a review, sometimes for private feedback, and occasionally just to say hi. So it was very welcome day when I was sent one of the first bottles of Stuart Mackenzie’s Little Juniper Signature Gin just after it debuted. With it came a note, saying he wasn’t seeking any publicity, just that he hoped I’d enjoy it. It made my day. I like to joke sometimes that we’re living in the golden age of booze, but we really are. The quality and diversity of fine spirits, both here in Australia and around the world, is unparalleled. Locally, we’ve gone from a handful of gin distillers back in 2012 to over 415 and counting. I’ve been keeping a directory of them all on my website for over a decade and add more every month. As I’m sure you know, most are inspired by their location, local botanicals and offer an exciting and innovative drinking experience. 43

But what I always thought was missing in the spectrum of Australian gins was something along the lines of a super-premium, elegant, London Dry style that offered something of the finesse and complexity one sees in, say, the gins from Sweden. What I look for in a quality gin is that is has to stand up by itself, offering a complex, thoughtful palette of botanicals and the base spirit well integrated. Not one dominating – they should all have a role to play. Normally, a consumer will go straight to the mixer or cocktail for a spirit, but when we judge spirits it’s always the nose, then neat, and then with a little bit of water to open up the flavour profile. Here, the gin has nowhere to hide. What’s the spirit volatility? Is it balanced? How clean is the underlying spirit? Does the nose line up with the palette?

such a short period of time. Each stage has been carefully thought through, but even he has been surprised at how well the gin’s been received from the beginning. The distilling and bar scene there make for a vibrant, passionate and supportive ecosystem. You go to any bar and the South Australian pride is palpable at the number of local brands on the shelves at the expense of other places in Australia! That said, during my visit I popped in to meet the owner of the famous Hains & Co bar in central Adelaide, and he told me how they had run out of Little Juniper one evening and he called Stuart to get some more pronto. He said the bar cheered when he turned up with a case – so clearly it’s hitting the gin nerve with the locals.

So I encourage you, when you’ve opened your latest delivery from Gin Society, to be a little brave and try the spirit neat. Get to know it, au naturel, before reaching for that tonic. Some gins offer an appealing viscosity on the palate and reveal the complexity of their botanicals. And over ice, they can be appreciated like a fine whisky. The skills of the distiller and their understanding of the relationship between the botanicals and base spirit make such an experience possible.

I was fortunate to spend some time with Stuart during a recent trip to Adelaide and it was fascinating hearing how he’s built up the brand in

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YOU GO TO ANY BAR AND THE SOUTH AUSTRALIAN PRIDE IS PALPABLE AT THE NUMBER OF LOCAL BRANDS ON THEIR SHELVES...

EXPLORING THE GIN

To debut the brand, Stuart wanted to start off with a classic: a contemporary take on the London Dry style. It’s important to know that for over six months he went about understanding the nature of each botanical using a rotovap device that gently extracts the flavours of the botanicals, at times at very low temperatures. This gave him lots of control and he was able to prototype many versions in small batches, before landing on the final recipe. He had originally thought the 21 botanicals was perhaps a bit much – the old classics from the UK often have just a handful. But on scaling up to his 200-litre copper still (a 12-hour distillation process using a mix of botanical baskets) and road testing on the locals, he realised he found what he was looking for. The gin is certified organic, and includes a lively mix of the classic London Dry botanicals such angelica root, star anise, liquorice root and some 60% juniper berry, along with some lavender and blood orange, native pink peppercorns and others. You’d think this would make for a busy gin, but on the contrary Stuart has intelligently crafted a gin with a generous mouthfeel, with the juniper in the foreground as it should be, and

WA NT TO L E ARN M ORE AB OUT MA RTINIS?

supported and layered by the other botanicals in a closely woven flavour profile. As you sip it, you can pick out the heat of the peppercorns, or the star anise and liquorice underneath, with a crisp finish that lingers. The gin is also rounded on the palate due to its refined base spirit made from sugar cane – one of the few distilleries in Australia to use this. It provides a generous mouthfeel for the botanicals to infuse. So, in this gin you’ll find a spirit that offers a very elegant experience, with finesse and complexity. It is beautifully realised. A brand to watch, for this is one impressive debut.

TO TRY

Well, this gin can certainly be appreciated over ice, with a garnish that accentuates one of its botanicals depending on your taste. But it sings to be in a crisp, cold Martini. With so much going on in the gin, there is no need to try to compete with your Vermouth – the drier the better. I recommend the French Dry Dolin, or if you want something more citrus-forward, the Regal Rogue Daring Dry. I suggest a single olive garnish. But it also works just fine in a Dirty Martini, where those spicier botanicals and the generous juniper stand up very well.

The Martini Whisperer runs a range of event formats ranging from intimate private or corporate experiences, to large scale corporate settings. https://martiniwhisperer.com/

FLAVOUR PROFILE JUNIPER

CITRUS

FLORAL

HEAT

HERBAL

SPICE

55 Profiled by The Martini Whisperer exclusively for Gin Society.

COCKTAIL RECIPE: LITTLE JUNIPER DRY MARTINI

Phillip A. Jones (aka The Martini Whisperer) shares his favourite cocktail recipe to make with Little Juniper Signature Gin.

75ML LITTLE JUNIPER GIN 15ML REGAL ROGUE DARING DRY VERMOUTH SINGLE OLIVE TO GARNISH Chill serving glass with ice. Pour Little Juniper Signature Gin and Regal Rogue Daring Dry Vermouth into mixing glass and stir. Single-strain into a chilled glass (dump the ice). Garnish with a single olive.

Hint: When using Vermouth with Little Juniper Signature Gin - the drier the better.

Crafted with only the best naturally sourced ingredients from around the world

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