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Welcome to Vietnam...... 20 Top Experiences ....... Need to Know ................. What’s New ..................... If You Like... ..................... Month by Month ............. Itineraries ........................ Vietnam Outdoors ......... Regions at a Glance .......

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Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

2 6 18 20 21 23 26 30 36

Vietnam

Vietnam is a nation going places. Fast. Its people are energetic, direct, sharp in commerce and resilient by nature. This is an outrageously fun country to explore, the locals love a laugh (and a drink) and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to socialise with them and hear their tales. The American War is over, and yet its impact endures – you’ll Ànd reminders of that cataclysmic conÁict everywhere you travel. That said, the country was never broken and emerged with its pride intact. Poor in parts but never squalid, Vietnam is developing at Currency Language an astonishing pace. For travellers, there » Dong Vietnameseminor are (d) issues to consider» (including

Need to Know

ice of the Vietnam e peaks e-flat river e-riddled ntral ainforest er with some oductive riceat’s just the hern half ces a much cuisine, of the you head more of a nut trees o plants and y sauce on n provinces and sticky, , aromatic

Hanoi Food 333 History 33 Culture 33

Food Discover – meal by tasty meal – that Hanoi is one of the planet’s great food cities. Dine in restored colonial villas or contemporary cafes, or pull up a stool and chow down on street food classics like pho bo (beef noodle soup) or bun cha (barbecued pork and rice vermicelli).

by Month Major religious festivals in Vietnam have lunar dates; check against any Vietnamese calendar for the Gregorian dates. If you know when Tet kicks oՖ, simply count from there. Special prayers are held at Vietnamese and Chinese pagodas when the moon is full or a thin sliver. Many Buddhists eat only vegetarian food on these days, which according to the Chinese lunar calendar, fall on the 14th and 15th days of the month and from the last day of the month to the Àrst day of the next month.

US$40 #

» Cheap hotel: US$10– 15 a night, dorms less

Hanoi GO Mar-May & Sep-Nov

» Eat in local, not Western-style places »

Danang Fireworks Fest April Buddha’s Birth, Enlightenment and Dea

February North of Danang, chilly ‘Chinese winds’ usually mean grey, overcast conditions. Conversely, sunny hot days are the norm in the southern provinces.

(Tet Nguyen z Tet Dan) The Big One! Falling in late

Midrange

Danang GO Mar-Sep

US$40– 100 » Comfortable double room: US$20–50

Buon Ma z Coffee Fe

CaՖeine cravers sho make for the Centr lands during March High Season Buon Ma Thuot pla (Jul–Aug) to an annual coՖ»ee Prices increase by up to 50% by the Growers, grinders, coast; book hotels and addicts rub sho well in advance. in the city’s main» All p Vietnam, except and local entertain the far north, is hot and humid with the provided.

Get a taste for bia hoi

» Can survive on as little as US$15 a day #

» Eat and drink almost anywhere

Ho Chi Minh City GO Nov-Feb

» Indulge in the odd spa treatment

Shoulder (Dec–Mar) During the Tet festival, the whole country is on the move and prices rise.

» North of Nha Trang

can get cool weather. Expect cold conditions

Low Season (Apr–Jun, Sep–Nov) Perhaps the best time to tour the whole nation.

Typhoons can lash the central and northern coastline

» Travel by taxi when necessary

SHOESTRING • Big trips, small budgets • Multicountry

Top End over

US$100 » Luxury hotel room: from US$70

» Shop in smart boutiques

Saigon Cy 2 Race

On your marks…get dling. Ho Chi Minh fastest rickshaw dri battle it out in their wheeled chariots to

History Explore the centuries-old commercial labyrinth of the Old Quarter, before moving on to understand the tumultuous events of the 20th century, recounted in fascinating detail at Hanoi’s excellent museums.

UNDERSTAND 425 VIETNAM 426 429 447 457

GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of what you see

belief systems

if Vietna 100 peop

(% of population)

have been searching for their own MIAs in

Other Foreign Involvemen

Australia, New Zealand, South Korea, the P sent military personnel to South Vietnam a

37.4

31.9

Buddhist

Protestant

20.7

1976

467 477 485 492

Catholic

The Socialist Republic of Vietnam is proclaimed as Saigon is re-named Ho Chi Minh City. Hundreds of housands Áee abroad, including many boat people.

9.4 Cao Dai

0.4 Other

86 would be Kinh (V 3 would be Thai and 2 would be Tay 2 would be Khmer K 1 would be Hoa (ethn 6 would be others

LONELYPLANET.COM For travel information, advice, tips & digital chapters

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» Ho Chi Minh portrait in the central post o՗ce, H

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vietnam-11-cover.indd 2

PHRASEBOOK

Looking for other travel resources?

Culture There’s a lot more to Hanoi’s l l h b l

PAGE

Vietnam Today................ History ............................. People & Culture ............ Hill Tribes of Vietnam ..... Architecture in Vietnam ........................... Regional Specialities...... Food & Drink ................... Environment ...................

Budget less than

Sapa # GO Mar-May & Sep-Nov

Wandering Souls Day, A

town involved. Increasingly it’s become an international event, with music and fashion shows and a wine festival.

A Cultural Smorgasbord This is a country of myriad inÁuences and reference points. In the south, Indian and Hindu culture had a lasting inÁuence in the Cham temples and spicy regional cuisine, spiked with chilli and tempered with coconut. Head north and Chinese connections are far more apparent. Between these two competing cultures, you’ll Ànd a quintessential Vietnam in the central provinces: the graceful historic old port of Hoi An, and the royal tombs, pagodas and imperial cuisine of Hue. Oh, and there’s

Set Your Budget

Warm to hot summers, mild winters Tropical climate, wet & dry seasons

Hue Festival, June (bien

COUNTRY COUNTRY COUN • The original Comprehensive nsive • Comprehen Adventurous us • Adventurou

scams), but little real danger – on the whole it’s a safe, wonderfully rewarding and incredibly varied country to explore.

The Vietnamese Experience 8

When to Go

Blessed with a ravishing coastline, emerald-green mountains, breathtaking national parks, dynamic cities, outstanding cultural interest and one of the world’s best cuisines, Vietnam has it all.

Welcome to

AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011 %03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111

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3/11/2011 11:04:48 AM

PAGE

ON THE ROAD

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

Northwest Vietnam p116

Northeast Vietnam p87 Hanoi p42

North-Central Vietnam p141

Central Vietnam p156 Siem Reap and the Temples of Angkor p410

Central Highlands p270 South-Central Coast p214

Mekong Delta p352

Ho Chi Minh City p297

Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor

SURVIVAL 499 GUIDE PAGE

Directory A–Z ................. Transport ........................ Health .............................. Language ........................ Index ................................ Map Legend ....................

500 511 523 528 542 551

p410

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

Transport GETTING THERE & AWAY

Most travellers enter Vietnam by plane or bus, but there are also train links from China and boat connections from Cambodia via the Mekong River.

Entering Vietnam Formalities at Vietnam’s nternational airports are erally smoother than at orders, as the volume s greater. That said, land from Camnow rela-

(%3832 0320); HCMC (%3832 0320) The state-owned Áag carrier has Áights to 28 international destinations, mainly in east Asia, but new routes were announced to the UK and Australia in 2011. The airline has a modern Áeet of Airbuses and Boeings, and has a good recent safety record.

Airports

p fal and

Land Vietnam with Cam Laos and border cr eigners w a big imp ade ago. it is still Vietnam any of t

Bord Exa ar

There are three established international airports in Vietnam. A fourth major international airport, in P Quoc, should becom operational in 2

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Iain Stewart, Brett Atkinson, Peter Dragicevich, Nick Ray

MYANMAR (BURMA)

Tay Trang

Dien Bien Phu

VIENTIANE

Mai Chau

Tuyen

Ba Be National Park Hoang Lien National Park Lang Son

Ba Be Lakes

Haiphong

Pingxiang

Cao Bang

Nanning

C H I N A

Nong Haet

kon g r

Tha Khaek

Cau Treo

Tam Coc

Cha Lo

Ha Tinh

Vinh

Dansavanh

Khe Sanh

Hue

Dong Ha

Hainan Island (China)

Halong Bay Thousands of amazing limestone islands (p94)

Zhanjiang

18ºN

20ºN

Paracel Islands

Top Experiences ›

Hue Majestic former imperial capital (p163)

Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP Caves, rivers and outstanding mountainous scenery (p151)

Gulf of Tonkin

Dong Hoi

Lao Bao

Thanh Hoa

Ninh Binh

Cat Ba Halong Bay Thai Binh Island

Hai Duong

Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park

Na Phao

Nam Phao

Na Meo

Nam Can

Nam Xoi

Cuc Phuong National Park

Quang o ua n Yen Bai Thai n g L Tuan Nguyen Mong Cai ta i Dongxing Giao e i n n Viet Tri Bac Ninh Son La s Halong Ba Vi HANOI Bai Tu City National Long Bay Park Hoa Binh

Phonsavan

LAOS

Sapa

Ha Giang

Lao Cai Bac Ha

Fansipan (3143m) H o M

Lai Chau (Tam Duong)

Muong Lay (Lai Chau)

Hanoi Captivating capital steeped in history (p42)

Sapa Atmospheric old French hill station (p125)

› Vietnam

0 0

200m

500m

102ºE

Mekong Delta Tradition-rich watery world (p352)

200 km 120 miles

104ºE

Rach Gia

Tinh Bien

Ca Mau

Ha Tien

Phu Quoc Island

Duong Dong

Kampot

Takeo Cao Lanh

Bac Lieu

Soc Trang

My Tho Ben Tre Vung Tau Tra Vinh

Long Hai

Bien Hoa

Con Dao Con Dao National Islands Park 106ºE

Mekong Delta

Vinh Can Tho Long

Long Xuyen

Chau Doc

Cu Chi

HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON)

Tay Ninh

108ºE

110ºE

Phan Rang & Thap Cham

Nha Trang

Tuy Hoa

14ºN

10ºN

Mui Ne Cosmopolitan beach and watersport resort (p247)

12ºN

Nha Trang Hedonistic beach party capital (p227)

SOUTH CHINA SEA

Hoi An A delightful ancient port (p190)

Quy Nhon

Quang Ngai

Ho Chi Minh City Vietnam at its liveliest, buzzing best (p297)

Mui Ne

Dalat

Kon Tum

Phan Thiet

Cat Tien National Park

Buon Ma Thuot

Yok Don National Park

Pleiku

Bo Y

1000m

Kaam Samnor Vinh Xuong

PHNOM PENH

Cat Tien National Park Wildlife-spotting, hiking and biking (p283)

Mekong River

1500m

Tonlé Sap

Attapeu

Cham Islands

Hoi An Tam Ky My Son

Danang

H i g h l an

ELEVATION

Battambang

Angkor Wat Siem Reap

CAMBODIA

Pakse

Bach Ma National Park

tral

Gulf of Thailand

BANGKOK

Angkor Wat One of the wonders of the world (p418)

THAILAND

Savannakhet

Cen

Itineraries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com /thorntree to chat with other travellers.

CHINA VIETNAM

BURMA

LAOS

_ HANOI #

÷# # •

Cuc Phuong National Park

# Ninh Binh •

Tam Coc

É É

Hue # •

# Hoi An •

THAILAND

SOUTH CHINA SEA

CAMBODIA

• Nha Trang #

É • Mui Ne Beach #

• #

Ho Chi Minh City

Two Weeks

The Great Ocean Road Acclimatise in the capital, Hanoi; see the sights, wine and dine, take in a temple or two and experience the Old Quarter’s street life. Then head to nearby Ninh Binh for a couple of days. It’s the gateway to the striking scenery of Tam Coc and the primates and trails of Cuc Phuong National Park. Next it’s a long train or bus journey south to experience Hue, imperial and irresistible capital of old. Then head up and over (or under) the mighty Hai Van Pass before hitting charming Hoi An, the perfect place for some time out – sightseeing, shopping and sunning yourself on the beach. Enter Nha Trang, the biggest and brashest beach resort in Vietnam, and try a hedonistic boat trip to nearby islands. If that’s all too much, carry on south to Mui Ne Beach, a tropical idyll with smart resorts, blissed-out budget options, towering dunes and crazy kitesurfing. Finish up in Ho Chi Minh City, where you can indulge in sophisticated shopping, delectable dining and the liveliest nightlife in the country.

27 Bac Ha • VIETNAM •# Sapa #

CHINA

BURMA

‚ Halong Bay

• Cat Ba Island # Cuc Phuong # • ÷# Ninh Binh National Park

É É

Phong Nha-Ke Bang ÷ # • Vinh Moc Tunnels National Park # Hue # Khe Sanh Combat Base • # • • Danang # # • • Hoi An My Son # THAILAND • My Khe Beach # É

SOUTH CHINA SEA

Dalat

# •

Tay Ninh

# • • Cu Chi Tunnels #

• Can Tho #

Doc Let Beach &

‚ Whale Island • # Nha Trang

• Ho Chi Minh #

City (Saigon)

One Month

The Works Run this one in reverse, and start out in the cauldron of commerce that is Ho Chi Minh City. Spend three days hitting the markets, browsing museums and eating some of the globe’s best cuisine. Take a day trip to discover wartime history at the Cu Chi Tunnels and then carry on to Tay Ninh, headquarters of the Cao Dai religion, and its fairy-tale temple. Dip into the Mekong Delta for a day or two. Stay at Can Tho, the social and commercial heart of the region, and take to the water to cruise through the floating markets. Head up into the central highlands to the romantic hill station of Dalat to tour its quirky sights. Back down on the coast, the beach resort of Nha Trang has some serious partying, boat trips, scuba diving and snorkelling. Ease you way up the stunning central coastline stopping at beaches like Doc Let or My Khe when you fancy, visiting Whale Island and taking in Cham ruins including My Son. Cultured charmer and culinary mecca Hoi An is the next essential stop, before a quick look at booming Danang and on to the old imperial capital of Hue and its citadel, tombs and pagodas. Take a day trip to the former Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) where you’ll find famous sites from the American War, including Khe Sanh Combat Base and the Vinh Moc Tunnels. Then head into the hills to the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, a World Heritage site where the world’s largest cave has been discovered. From here, follow the stunning Ho Chi Minh Highway to the capital, stopping to see Cuc Phuong National Park and the surreal landscapes around Ninh Binh. To the east lies Halong Bay, with more than 2000 limestone outcrops dotting the scenic bay. Stop for a couple of days on rugged Cat Ba Island, an important adventuresports centre, before looping back to the capital. Arrive in time to catch the night train to Sapa, unoﬃcial capital of the northwest hill-tribe region and a beautiful base for hiking and biking. Be sure to take a side trip to Bac Ha to catch its famous markets and tribal villages before the return journey to Vietnam’s intoxicating capital, Hanoi, and its evocative Old Quarter.

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

LAOS

HANOI

_É #

» (above) Street vendors selling vegetables, Hanoi » (left) Tourist junks glide past a floating village near Cat Ba Island, Halong Bay

29 Tram Ton Lao Cai Pass # • • Sapa # É VIETNAM • Muong Lay # HANOI

_ #

• Halong Bay #

Hue

• #

THAILAND

# Danang • • Hoi An #

SOUTH CHINA SEA

CAMBODIA É

Northwest Loop by Motorbike Vietnam in a Week

# Ho Chi Minh City •

Seven Days

10 Days

Vietnam in a Week

Northwest Loop by Bike

Vietnam is a large, densely-populated developing country where journeys are slow. To get an overview of the nation in a week you’re going to have to take a couple of internal flights (or overnight train journeys). Begin in Hanoi, basing yourself in the Old Quarter, for a fullon introduction. Hit the ground running, spend a day touring the capital’s sights and a night munching street food and sampling bia hoi. Then take a day-trip to Halong Bay for magnificent scenery and revitalising sea air. Day three takes in a morning flight to Hue and an afternoon exploring the imperial citadel (with a good guide to make the most of your time). On day four bus, train or automobile down to Hoi An, making sure you have dinner at one of the town’s sublime Vietnamese restaurants. The following morning, soak up Hoi An’s unique atmosphere and explore its pagodas and temples on foot. If the sun’s out, hit nearby An Bang Beach for a swim later on. On day six it’s up to Danang airport and a flight to Ho Chi Minh City, for a brief taste of Vietnam’s most dynamic city: its fabled restaurants, nightlife and sights.

Northern Vietnam is a world unto itself, a land of brooding mountains, a mosaic of ethnic minorities, a region of overwhelming beauty. It’s ideal terrain to cover on two wheels with light traﬃc, breathtaking views and pretty decent paved roads. Leaving Hanoi, head west to Mai Chau, home to the White Thai people, for your first two nights; it’s a perfect introduction to the life of the minorities. Northwest of here, where the road begins to climb into the Tonkinese Alps, a logical stop is Son La. Dien Bien Phu is a name that resonates with history; it was here that the French colonial story ended with defeat. Plan on two nights here. Tour the military sights then revel in the stunning alpine scenery to the north, breaking the journey with a night in Muong Lay. On day seven, climb over the mighty Tram Ton Pass to Sapa. This is the premier destination in the northwest, thanks to the infinite views (on a clear day!), an amazing array of minority peoples and some of the region’s most colourful markets. On your last day, head down to Lao Cai, then let the train take the strain – load your bike on a goods carriage while you slumber on a sleeper berth back to Hanoi.

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

Son La • # Mai Chau

LAOS

• #

• Dien Bien Phu #

BURMA

CHINA

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: authorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top A green or No payment oOur recommendation Ssustainable option Frequired

HANOI . . . . . . . . . . . . .42 AROUND HANOI . . . . . . . . . . 83 Ho Chi Minh Trail Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83 Perfume Pagoda . . . . . . . . . 84 Handicraft Villages . . . . . . . 84 Thay & Tay Phuong Pagodas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Ba Vi National Park . . . . . . .85 Co Loa Citadel . . . . . . . . . . .85 Tam Dao Hill Station . . . . . 86

NORTHEAST VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Ba Be National Park . . . . . 89 Con Son & Den Kiep Bac . . 91 Haiphong . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 HALONG BAY . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Halong City . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Cat Ba Island . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Bai Tu Long Bay . . . . . . . . .108 MONG CAI & THE CHINESE BORDER . . . . . . 110 Mong Cai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Lang Son . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Cao Bang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Hang Pac Bo (Water-Wheel Cave) . . . . . . 114 Ban Gioc Waterfall & Nguom Ngao Cave . . . . . . . 115

NORTHWEST VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 116 Hoa Binh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Mai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 Son La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119

Tuan Giao . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Pa Khoang Lake . . . . . . . . . 121 Dien Bien Phu . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Muong Lay . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 Lai Chau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124 Sapa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125 Lao Cai . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132 Bac Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133 Ha Giang Province . . . . . . . 137

NORTH-CENTRAL VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 141 Ninh Binh Province . . . . . .143 Vinh. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 Around Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 151 Dong Hoi & Around . . . . . .153

CENTRAL VIETNAM . . . . . . . . . . 156 Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) . . . . . . . . . . . . .158 Dong Ha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 Quang Tri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163 Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .163 Around Hue . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 Bach Ma National Park . . . 178 Suoi Voi (Elephant Springs). . . . . . . 179 Lang Co Beach . . . . . . . . . . 179 Hai Van Pass & Tunnel . . . .180 Ba Na Hill Station. . . . . . . .180 Danang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Around Danang. . . . . . . . . . 187 Hoi An . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road Around Hoi An . . . . . . . . . 207 My Son . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Tra Kieu (Simhapura) . . . .213 Chien Dan . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213

SOUTH-CENTRAL COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Quang Ngai . . . . . . . . . . . . .216 Around Quang Ngai . . . . . . 217 Sa Huynh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218 Quy Nhon. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219 Cha Ban Cham Area . . . . 223 Quang Trung Museum . . . 224 Ham Ho Nature Reserve. . 224 Song Cau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Tuy Hoa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225 Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang . . . 225 Nha Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227 Around Nha Trang . . . . . . 243 Phan Rang & Thap Cham 244 Ninh Chu Beach . . . . . . . . 246 Ca Na . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247 Mui Ne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247 Phan Thiet . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Ta Cu Mountain . . . . . . . . 256 Binh Chau Hot Springs . . 256 Phan Thiet to Long Hai . . .257 Long Hai. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Vung Tau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Con Dao Islands . . . . . . . . 263

CENTRAL HIGHLANDS . . . . . . .270 Dalat & Around . . . . . . . . . .272 Bao Loc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283

Ngoan Muc Pass. . . . . . . . 283 Cat Tien National Park . . 283 Buon Ma Thuot . . . . . . . . . 285 Around Buon Ma Thuot . . 288 Pleiku . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .291 Kon Tum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293

HO CHI MINH CITY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297 AROUND HO CHI MINH CITY . . . . . . 342 Cu Chi. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343 Tay Ninh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 346 One Pillar Pagoda. . . . . . . 349 Can Gio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 349

MEKONG DELTA . . . .352 My Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 Around My Tho . . . . . . . . . .357 Ben Tre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 Tra Vinh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 360 Around Tra Vinh . . . . . . . . 363 Vinh Long. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 Can Tho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 366 Around Can Tho . . . . . . . . . 371 Soc Trang . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .373 Bac Lieu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .374 Around Bac Lieu . . . . . . . . .375 Ca Mau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .376 Around Ca Mau . . . . . . . . . .378 Rach Gia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .378 Phu Quoc Island . . . . . . . . .381 Ha Tien . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 392 Around Ha Tien. . . . . . . . . 395 Chau Doc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 Around Chau Doc . . . . . . . 400

Long Xuyen . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 Cao Lanh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404 Around Cao Lanh . . . . . . . 407 Sa Dec . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407

SIEM REAP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . . . . . . . .410 SIEM REAP . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411 AROUND SIEM REAP . . . . 417 Cambodia Landmine Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 417 Chong Kneas . . . . . . . . . . . . 417 Kompong Pluk . . . . . . . . . . 417 TEMPLES OF ANGKOR . . . 418 Angkor Wat . . . . . . . . . . . . .418 Angkor Thom . . . . . . . . . . .418 Around Angkor Thom . . . 423

OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has oﬃces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staﬀ and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Iain Stewart Coordinating Author, North-Central Vietnam, Central Vietnam Iain Stewart first visited and was captivated by Vietnam as a traveller in 1991 (armed with a trusty Lonely Planet). He’s now a Brighton-based writer, specialising in hot countries a long way from his English seaside abode. Iain has written over 30 guidebooks for destinations including Guatemala, Ibiza and Indonesia, for many publishers. This trip was quite a blast – motorbiking the Ho Chi Minh Highway, sailing to the Chams, partying in Saigon, exploring the heart of Phong Nha and eating the best food in the world. Read more about Iain at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/iainstewart

Brett Atkinson Hanoi, Northeast Vietnam, Northwest Vietnam Brett Atkinson first visited Vietnam in late 1993, a few months before the United States lifted their trade embargo. For this trip he dived headfirst into Hanoi’s brilliant street food scene, returned to Halong Bay, and explored northern Vietnam’s emerging destinations for intrepid travellers: Ha Giang province and Bai Tu Long. When he’s not home in Auckland, Brett’s exploring the planet as a food and travel writer. See www.brett-atkinson.net for what he’s been eating, and where he’s headed next. Peter Dragicevich Ho Chi Minh City, Mekong Delta Being a self-declared big-city junkie, Peter was thrilled to return to Vietnam to write about Ho Chi Minh City after a four-year hiatus. Things change quickly in Vietnam, but despite a few new skyscrapers and a fresh crop of international bars and restaurants, he was pleased to find Saigon just as crazy, chaotic and thrilling as ever. This is the 21st Lonely Planet guidebook that he’s contributed to, including a previous edition of this book. When he’s not slurping up noodle soup on motorcycle-clogged streets he’s based in his hometown of Auckland, New Zealand. Read more about Peter at:

lonelyplanet.com/members/peterdragicevich

Nick Ray Central Highlands, South-Central Coast, Siem Reap & the Temples of Angkor A Londoner of sorts, Nick comes from Watford, the sort of town that makes you want to travel. As he lives in Phnom Penh, Vietnam is Nick’s backyard. He has co-authored Cycling Vietnam, Laos & Cambodia, as well as the Cambodia book for Lonely Planet. Nick has been to almost every province from Ha Giang in the north to Ca Mau in the south. He was exploring in-between this time around and enjoyed motorbiking the Central Highlands and hanging out on Con Dao.

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