M O R O C C O P A S S I O N YVES SAINT LAURENT GIORGIO CESARI
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C O N T E N T Executive Summary............................... 5 History.................................................... 7 The Founder...................................... 7 Yves Saint Laurent Era..................... 9 Post Saint Laurent .............................. 13 Luxury Goods Market.......................... 17 Marketing Strategy............................... 19 Conclusion........................................... 23 References.......................................... 25
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EXECUTIVE SUMMARY Founded in 1961, Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) is one of the most influent fashion luxury brands since the 20th century. Thanks to its brilliant French founder, from which the House took the name, YSL has always been recognized as a milestone of the fashion industry. He has been considered the promoter of modernity by re-establishing the women’s canons in the modern era thanks to his visionary vision and audacity. Saint Laurent has been leading the market for the last 60 years with woman and men’s ready-to-wear collections, leather goods, as well as accessories such as shoes, handbags, cosmetics and fragrances. The report aims to examine in detail Saint Laurent, the French luxury brand. The following paragraphs will give an overall analysis starting from its history, its current position in the luxury global market, and the marketing strategy that should be followed to give a tribute to Yves Saint Laurent and his Morocco Passion.
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“Fashion Fades, Style is Eternal” Yves Saint Laurent
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THE FOUNDER Yves Henri Donat Mathieu Saint Laurent was a young fashion designer born in Oran, Algeria, who, at the young age of 21, was thrown into the fashion industry. Unfortunately for him, since he was a kid, he had always been bulled due to his homosexuality. On the other side, this allowed him to express himself and to create his vision of fashion based on freedom and diversity. Yves had always dreamed to become a couturier, so at the tender age of 17, he moved to Paris to chase his ambitions. The then French Vogue’s editor-inchief, Michel De Brunhoff, got impressed by Saint Laurent’s talent and decided to introduce him to Christian Dior who hired him as an assistant. Throughout the “Dior Years”, he was awarded with International Prizes. The most recognized dress he made was the “Dovima with Elephants”, immortalized by Richard Avedon (Debut at Dior, s.d.). In 1957, once Dior sadly passed away, Yves was appointed as Dior’s Artistic Director. On January 1958, at his first debut, he was crowned as “The Little Prince of Fashion” and the Youngest Couturier in the World (The Dior Years, s.d.). Unfortunately, his experience at the haute couture house ended soon due to military duty.
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YVES SAINT LAURENT ERA A turning-point in the Saint Laurent’s career came during 1961: with his life partner Pierre Bergè, Saint Laurent founded what will then be one of the most prestigious haute couture houses in the fashion history. The house’s logo was minimalist and aesthetic, and it was drawn by the graphic designer Cassandre, under Berge’s guidance. Over the years, Yves continued working for renowned artists in the world of theatre and cinema, producing clothes that were increasingly appreciated by experts. The garments tended to re-adapt the masculine style to feminine lines and shapes, purely using monochromatic and heavy fabrics. Among the most famous garments, one of the most celebrated was the “Pea Coat” (presented in 1962 at the first YSL fashion show), and another emblematic classic of the Saint Laurent’s house: the women's tuxedo. At that time, a woman wearing an exclusively male garment was a paradox, but thanks to his unscrupulousness and the continuous desire to promote inclusion, the couturier was able to enjoy tremendous success (Bibliography, s.d.). In 1966, the trip to Marrakech represented a crucial moment in Saint Laurent's career. He got impressed by the vitality of the city and the variety of lights and colours: this new spirit remarkably inspired Saint Laurent and convinced him and his partner to buy a house in the area.
DOVIMA WITH ELEPHANTS
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YVES SAINT LAURENT ERA According to Musee YSL Paris’ references (2019): “When he rediscovered North Africa thirty years later, he rediscovered the region’s particular light and the color it revealed. Morocco became an endless source of inspiration for Saint Laurent. He would go there twice a year—in December and June—to design his collections, which were subsequently dominated by color”. Starting from that point, Saint Laurent’s next collections were vivacious, excessive, and elegant. He intended to empower the figure of a revolutionary woman, revealing the curves of the female body through the African Collection, the Safari Jacket, and the Jumpsuit. Over the years, Saint Laurent had always dedicated himself to both projects related to haute couture house and ready-to-wear collections. In 2002, during a conference he officially declared the closure of the haute couture house by adding: “I tell myself that I have created the contemporary woman’s wardrobe, that I have contributed to changing my era” (Yves Saint Laurent, 2002). In 2008, at the age of 71, Yves Saint Laurent passed away; his remains are preserved in the Majorelle Jarden in Marrakech. Saint Laurence’s influence has been spreading all around the world: he has been the promoter of the woman figure in the contemporary era and the first couturier in the world to launch the “Pret-a-Porter”.
JUMPSUIT
SAFARI JACKET
AFRICAN STYLE
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POST SAINT LAURENT Nowadays, the core company is completely different. Affected by past acquisitions, Elf-Sanofi first and Gucci soon after, today YSL is part of the Kering Group, a French company that has been dominating the global luxury market for years. Thanks to the latest acquisition, and the careful strategic guidance of Kering, YSL is still considered one of the most influential luxury brands in the fashion industry. The brand is produced both in Italy and France; this company has stood out for years for the quality and durability of its luxury goods (Voyer, 2016), unmistakable and timeless style, and the innovation made day by day. The brand is synonymous with youth and freedom, the spirit behind the company's DNA, and identifies itself with a customer segment extremely passionate about fashion and art, with a wide range of ages. Collections are both for women and men, although the main focus is always on the woman figure, to which the man figure is then placed. YSL is a sophisticated brand composed mainly of clothing and reinforced by accessories such as cosmetics, fragrances, bags, shoes and glasses. The company has fully embraced the 3 pillars of Ethics and Sustainability issued by Kering: Care, Collaborate, Create (Sustainability, s.d.). It has everything it takes to compete internationally with the biggest high-end exclusive luxury brands.
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POST SAINT LAURENT Following the death of Saint Laurent, the other two successors came after him, Tom Ford and Stefano Pilati, but they did not perfectly embody the corporate vision. In 2012, Hedi Slimane was named as the new Creative and Image Director of the entire label to continue in the footsteps of the founder (Fury, 2017). He introduced a profound re-branding strategy, starting with the change of name becoming “Saint Laurent”. The creative office was moved to Los Angeles, where the director resided, while production was stable in Europe. During these years, the company grew exponentially. From 2013, under the managerial guidance of the CEO Francesca Bellettini, and the artistic direction of Anthony Vaccarello in 2016, the company managed to lift from the past financial problems that plagued it and to relaunch the brand into the market (Saint Laurent History, s.d.). The 36-yearold designer was under pressure from stakeholders due to his young age, but he has personified the company’s DNA and has been able to address the legacy of the founder and to bring the Haute Couture on the street.
ANTHONY VACCARELLO 15
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LUXURY GOODS MARKET According to Deloitte's latest analysis (Deloitte, 2019), in 2018 the luxury goods market generates revenue of 247 billion dollars with an annual growth rate of 10.8%. Italy remains in the first place as the number of companies specialized in the sector, followed by France with a sales growth rate of 18.7%. In terms of growth at the continental level, forecasts show, by 2025, Asia in the first place (25%), then, Africa (12%), Americas (5%), Europe (4%), and Middle East (3%). The HENRYs (High-Earners-Not-Rich-Yet) are the customer segment of the sector, with an average income of USD 136000 and an average age of 43 years. Much attention is paid to the new generations of the Millennials and Gen Z, which are forecast to be the future segment. Social media, sustainability and technologies are fundamental factors that guide customers to make a decision, together with the brand experience, authenticity and reliability offered by the brand. Storytelling is one of the most used marketing strategies to generate loyalty. One of the biggest challenges for the industry is to include the new generations (Millennials and Gen Z) interacting through social media, and at the same time remain exclusive. The Kering group, of which Saint Laurent is a member, ranks 4th in the top 10 list of luxury companies. With a sales volume of 12.168 USD million, it ranks behind only LVMH, EstÊe Lauder and Richemont. According to Statista.com (O'Connell, 2019), in 2018 the Saint Laurent’s Global Revenue was approximately around 1.74 Billion Euros. Surprisingly, in 2018, more than half of the revenue comes from Leather Goods, while ready-to-wear takes only 16%. Although the company is small compared with others such as Gucci, sales are growing fast across markets, especially Western Europe (Indvik, 2019).
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MOROCCO PASSION JARDINE MAJORELLE 18
MARKETING STRATEGY In 2021 the company will celebrate its 60th anniversary, and for the occasion, we decided to organize an art event to pay tribute to one of the most brilliant fashion designers of the last century. The purpose of this event is to recall all the highlights of the couturier's life, characterized especially by his experience in Morocco. So far, black and white have become increasingly common in the latest collections, on social channels and on the website. The idea, therefore, is to bring to light the colours that have impressed Yves in his Morocco experience and that have marked a part of his career. The three pillars that will characterize the event will be: the image of the woman, the relationship between haute couture and art, and colours. What other location would be better than Marrakech for this occasion? The event will be held on 4 December 2021 at Majorelle Jarden, a place of inspiration and great emotional and professional significance for Yves. For the occasion, in agreement and under the supervision of our Creative Director, Anthony Vaccarello, and in collaboration with Giambattista Valli, we will design a haute couture collection in pure Moroccan style, focused on the colors that Yves loved so much: “pink, blue, green, and purple caftans ” (Le Maroc, s.d.). The choice to collaborate with Valli stems from the fact that he appears to be one of the greatest exponents in the world of contemporary haute couture. On some garments in the collection, references will be made to "Bill Willis", the trustworthy interior designer of the couple, who was entrusted with all the restoration work on the properties in Morocco. Obviously, in this project, it will not be missing the iconic revisited models: Tuxedo, Safari Jacket and Jumpsuit. The show will be enriched by the use of some art pieces preserved in the "Musées Yves Saint Laurent" founded by Bergè in 2017 in Marrakech. The event will be a bond of art and haute couture. The organization of the event will be personally managed by Vaccarello and his staff, together with the collaboration of local agencies. The PR staff will work on the project from October 2019 in Paris, then move to Marrakech 2 months before the event begins. The event will be promoted through social media, fashion magazines, local and international influencers, and press conferences in Paris and Los Angeles.
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BEYONCE
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MARKETING STRATEGY All the supporters who have proclaimed Saint Laurent as "the prince of haute couture" will be invited to the event, and everyone who is well-known in the fields of entertainment, fashion, art and cinema. The figure that most embodies Saint Laurent’s DNA is Beyonce. The decision of choosing this famous singer has specific reasons: she will be our Ambassador because she perfectly reflects the vision of women in modern society, with elegant traits but also masculine at times, promoter and voice of women's strength in the world. The presence of this character will highlight much more the event. The graphics that will be promoted for the entire event (social posts, invites, communication) will recall the "LOVE Cards" that Saint Laurent used to send to his friends, collaborators and clients annually (Naught des Love, s.d.). The event can become even more exclusive by introducing the new collection named “Morocco Passion” available for a limited time in the Musées Yves Saint Laurent in Marrakech and at 5th Avenue Marceau in Paris, where the then haute couture house resided which was later transformed into a museum. The campaign will aim to draw attention from industry experts and customers and to confirm the omnipresence of the fashion house within the luxury goods market even in the 21st century.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
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CONCLUSION In conclusion, after a careful analysis of the designer's history, the brand and its evolution, and the current situation of the luxury market, it turns out that the brand's communication has always remained flat. Since the last rebranding carried out by Slimane in 2012 to date, no events or particular collaborations with other companies have been realized. The company has remained more focused on collections and less on communication with its customer segment, both due to fiscal and managerial problems. Every luxury brand has to face the advent of new technologies and social media and, in order to arouse the interest of the new generations, it is essential for them to create an important communication on the history of the brand, giving customers a significant and exclusive brand experience. The PR, events and communication department plays a key role in terms of growth of brand image and awareness, and consequently of sales growth.
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REFERENCES Bibliography. (n.d.). Retrieved from Musee YSL Paris: https://museeyslparis.com/en/biography Buckle, C. (2019, April 1). The Luxury Market in 2019: What Brands Should Know. Retrieved from Global Web Index: https://blog.globalwebindex.com/chart-of-the-week/luxury-market-2019/ Cession du Groupe YSL a Elf-Sanofi. (n.d.). Retrieved from Musee YSL Paris: https://museeyslparis.com/en/biography/cession-du-groupe-ysl-a-elf-sanofi Debut at Dior. (n.d.). Retrieved from Musee YSL Paris: https://museeyslparis.com/en/biography/les-debuts-chez-dior Deloitte. (2019). Global Powers of Luxury Goods 2019.Deloitte. Fury, A. (2017, February 17). Inside the New Saint Laurent. Retrieved from The New York Time: https://www.nytimes.com/2017/02/17/t-magazine/saint-laurent-anthony-vaccarello.html Gosling, E. (2012). Yves Saint Laurent to launch new identity. Design Week (Online Edition). Indvik, L. (2019, April 18). Saint Laurent is growing nearly as fast as Gucci. Retrieved from Vogue Business: https://www.voguebusiness.com/companies/kering-first-quarter-earnings-gucci-saintlaurent Le Maroc. (n.d.). Retrieved from Musee YSL Paris: https://museeyslparis.com/en/stories/le-maroc Les Adieux. (n.d.). Retrieved from Musee YSL Paris: https://museeyslparis.com/en/biography/lesadieux Mcdowell, C. (2015, August 21). Education. Retrieved from Business of Fashion: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/education/yves-saint-laurent-1936-2008-2 Naissance des Love. (n.d.). Retrieved from Musee YSL Paris: https://museeyslparis.com/en/biography/naissance-des-love O'Connell, L. (2019, February 22). Global revenue share of Saint Laurent from 2015 to 2018, by product category. Retrieved from Statista: https://www.statista.com/statistics/442815/globalrevenue-share-of-saint-laurent-by-product-category/ Saint Laurent - Organizations. (n.d.). Retrieved from Business of Fashion: https://www.businessoffashion.com/organisations/saint-laurent Saint Laurent History. (n.d.). Retrieved from Kering: https://www.kering.com/en/houses/coutureand-leather-goods/saint-laurent/history/ Saint Laurent History. (n.d.). Retrieved from Kering: https://www.kering.com/en/houses/coutureand-leather-goods/saint-laurent/history/ Sustainability. (n.d.). Retrieved from Kering: https://www.kering.com/en/sustainability/ The Dior Years. (n.d.). Retrieved from Musee YSL Paris: https://museeyslparis.com/en/stories/les-annees-dior-1-1 Voyer, B. (2016, February 9). What every luxury brand can learn from the transformation of Yves Saint Laurent. Retrieved from The Conversation: http://theconversation.com/what-every-luxurybrand-can-learn-from-the-transformation-of-yves-saint-laurent-54357 Wiboon Kittilaksanawong, L. G. (2017). Yves Saint Laurent: Strategic Leadership of Creative Directors. Harvard Business Review. Yves Saint Laurent - Pierre BergĂŠ, A Moroccan Passion. (n.d.). Retrieved from Musee YSL Paris: https://museeyslparis.com/en/stories/le-maroc
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