10 minute read
17 PONTE DI LEGNO > LAVARONE Me 25/05/22
PONTE DI LEGNO - LAVARONE
A two-part mountain stage. At first, it starts uphill to the Tonale Pass and then runs downhill toward the Adige River. Then, the course climbs up Palù di Giovo, reaches Pergine Valsugana and features a tough final section that includes the Vetriolo Pass, the Menador ascent, the Mounte Vetere categorised climb. Finally, a few undulating kilometres lead to the finish.
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START
PONTE DI LEGNO>BRESCIA >LOMBARDY
The seventeenth stage starts in Ponte di Legno, a jewel set among imposing mountains. In 1912, the Italian Touring Club described Ponte di Legno as the «first Italian winter sports and tourism resort». Its name is now linked to that of the Tonale Pass, which connects it to Trentino. The 100 kilometres of slopes in the Pontedilegno-Tonale ski area stretch from 1121 metres in Temù to the 3000 metres of the Presena glacier and attract skiers from all over Europe. In summer Ponte di Legno is popular for sports activities such as trekking and biking. Here, we are in the Stelvio National Park and the Adamello Park, with their inestimable wealth of flora and fauna. Ponte di Legno has managed to retain the charm of a mountain village. The silence and magic of the place are an irresistible attraction for those seeking true contact with nature. But there is also a pedestrian district lined with shops and nice restaurants. Among the historic buildings, the 17th-century church of the Holy Trinity stands out. The encounter between Lombardy and Trentino gives rise to a gastronomic richness that well expresses the strong character of this territory. Authentic and genuine flavours, which come from locally available products, characterise the menus of the many restaurants, mountain huts, and holiday farms. The “gnoc de la cua” (De.Co.) is the typical dish
Oglio River.
of the Alta Valle Camonica – gnocchi made with wild spinach, eggs, flour and bread softened in milk. They are boiled and then seasoned with “sfrisida”, a mixture of onion, sage and butter. “Calsù” is the name of the local variant of casoncelli (large stuffed ravioli) from Valle Camonica. Silter is a locally produced hard, cooked, semi-fat cheese, with DOP designation and made from the milk of cows of the Bruna breed. Case di Viso (De.Co. label) is a cheese produced during the summer from the milk of cows in the mountain pastures. Elixir Noreas became the iconic liqueur of the Upper Valle Camonica a century ago. The recipe includes fifteen rare herbs, selected from the mountain pastures and woods of the Adamello Park.
Ponte di Legno hosts a stage start for the 4th time. Last time the flag was dropped here was in 2014. That stage finished in Val Martello, and Nairo Quintana won his first stage, grabbed his first Pink jersey and retained it up to Trieste, the final stage of that edition.
KM 20
VERMIGLIO > TRENTO > TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE
The race route heads up up to the Tonale Pass, at 1883 metres. On the border between Lombardy and Trentino and surrounded by the Adamello-Presanella, Ortles-Cevedale and Brenta mountain groups, the Tonale Pass is an open, panoramic natural amphitheatre stretching from 1883 to 3100 metres above sea level. In winter it is distinguished by its lively nightlife. The descent leads into the province of Trento. Vermiglio is the the westernmost municipality of the Val di Sole: a typical alpine village in a panoramic and sunny position facing the highest peaks of the Adamello-Presanella range. The historical importance of this small village is testified by numerous remains, including the Strino Fort. Continuing into Val di Sole, the course passes through Fucine (forges, in Italian) a hamlet of Ossana at the entrance to Val di Pejo: the name derives from the historical presence of numerous iron workshops. The next village is Dìmaro, an ancient transit point in a strategic position, now a tourist centre (Folgarida is a popular ski resort), not far from the even more famous Madonna di Campiglio. The next town is Malè, capital of the Valle di Sole Community, at the centre of the triangle formed by the Brenta Dolomites, Madonna di Campiglio and the Stelvio National Park. In the shepherd’s huts and small dairies the typical dairy products of the Val di Sole come to light: yoghurt, butter and above all cheeses such as Casolét, a soft mountain cheese, and Trentingrana. In the artisan butchers’ shops, tasty cold meats and sausages are prepared according to ancient recipes, including luganega, speck and bacon. In the Lower Val di Sole, like in the neighbouring Val di Non, the world-famous apples with the Melinda PDO label are grown. In addition to apples, berries such as currants, strawberries, blueberries and raspberries are also cultivated. By the way, the mountain honey is worth tasting.
View of Vermiglio.
KM 54
CLES > TRENTO > TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE
The Mostizzolo bridge connects Val di Sole and Val di Non. There, the race course leads to Cles, the main town in the valley. Since Roman times, Cles has been an important commercial hub, a crossroads between the valleys. The late Gothic Palazzo Assessorile stands out in the old town; further up, on a rocky promontory, Cles Castle overlooks Lake Santa Giustina. Val di Non has an important gastronomic
tradition. Its geographical conformation favours the cultivation of potatoes (famous are the ‘potato cakes’). It is also, par excellence, the land of apples, protected with the already mentioned Melinda apples PDO mark. The “mortandela” is a meatball-shaped sausage. Groppello is a vine with an ancient history, which is grown on the shores of Lake Santa Giustina. Continuing south towards Trento, the course reaches the flat area known as the Piana Rotaliana, where it passes through two important towns, Mezzolombardo and San Michele all’Adige.
KM 86
GIOVO > TRENTO > TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE
From here, the riders tackle the first categorized climb, up to 615 metres above sea level in the spread municipality of Giovo that include several hamlets on the mountain slope. The course runs through Palù, famous for being the birthplace of the great Francesco Moser, and Verla, the seat of the municipality and the church of Santa Maria Assunta. Built around 1770 in late Baroque style, it has a solemn façade with pilasters and stucco cornices.
Parish Church of Santa Maria Assunta.
KM 121
PERGINE VALSUGANA > TRENTO > TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE
Past Giovo, the route reaches Cembra, the major town of the valley bearing the same name, site of ancient human settlements (documented since the Mesolithic period). The medieval church of San Pietro, in late Gothic style, stands out. The route then passes Segonzano, known for the 18th-century sanctuary of the Madonna dell’Aiuto; Lases and Madrano, both overlooking a lake of the same name. The first intermediate sprint of the stage is set in Pergine Valsugana, that is the third biggest municipality of the province with more than 21,000 inhabitants, following Trento and Rovereto. The town occupies the vast basin at the foot of the Tegazzo hill and the valley floor of the Fersina stream, overlooking the northern offshoot of Lake Caldonazzo. On the Tegazzo hill, at about 650 metres above sea level, stands Pergine Castle, that has been attested since the 9th century. Pergine is also home to a lively cultural activity, with theatres and museums. It hosts linguistic minorities: the Mòcheno, Cimbro (both of Germanic origin) and Ladin.
Pergine Castle.
KM 134
PASSO DEL VETRIOLO > TRENTO > TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE
The 13-km-long climb with 900 metres of elevation gain winds up to Vetriolo Pass across the woods. The second KOM summit is set in Compet, at 1383 metres. The adjacent Vetriolo Terme owes its tourist vocation to the arsenical-ferruginous water that makes it “the highest spa resort in Europe” at 1500 metres above sea level. It is a hamlet of Levico Terme, reached by the peloton after quite a descent. We are at the furthest extremity of the Valsugana valley floor. Levico overlooks the lake of the same name, one of the two (together with Caldonazzo) from which the river Brenta springs. The church of Santissimo Redentore (19th century) is the second largest in the province of Trento after the Vetriolo Terme. Cathedral of San Vigilio in the provincial capital.
KM 149
CALDONAZZO > TRENTO > TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE
The second intermediate sprint is set in Caldonazzo, a town at the entrance to Valsugana, around 20 kilometres south-east of Trento. It gives its name to Lake Caldonazzo (divided between several municipalities), the largest lake in Trentino among those entirely within the province’s borders. Water skiing, canoeing and other water sports are practiced there. As already mentioned, it is one of the two lakes (together with Levico) from which the river Brenta springs. The church of San Valentino is worth a visit: it probably dates to the 13th century; the apse was built on the rock outcropping.
KM 160
MONTEROVERE > TRENTO > TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE
Past Caldonazzo, the course takes in the Menador climb. It was a military route during the 1915-1918 war and was originally named Kaiserjägerweg by the Austro-Hungarians who built the road. Today it is an unmissable scenic route for all cycling enthusiasts, with its hairpin bends and tunnels typical of rockcut roads. Much of the ascent is in the shade of the forest, although there are initially some sunny stretches. After about 8 kilometres and an almost 800-metre elevation gain, the riders clear the third and last KOM summit of the day, in Monterovere, at an altitude of 1261 metres above sea level.
Galleries carved into the rock, ascent of the Menador.
FINISH
LAVARONE>TRENTO > TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE
Past the categorised summit, a final short 8-kmlong stretch leads to the finish line in Lavarone. What immediately strikes you about Lavarone and the entire Alpe Cimbra is the landscape, which is pleasantly unusual compared to the stereotype of Trentino mountains: large openings and boundless horizons, amidst woodland, mountain pastures immersed in an almost Scandinavian landscape, with the Becco di Filadonna, the emblematic mountain of the area, as a constant backdrop. There are three symbols of Lavarone: its lake – one of the oldest in the Alps, at an altitude of 1079 metres, and labeled as ‘Blue Flag’ indicating clean waters; the Great War Fort Belvedere/ Gschwent – one of the seven mighty fortresses that the Austro-Hungarians built between 1908 and 1914 in these territories, in preparation for the conflict with Italy; and the Vaia Dragon – an internationally famous artwork created by Marco Martalar. The small villages scattered throughout the Alpe Cimbra (Folgaria, Lavarone, Luserna and Vigolana) have managed to preserve the secret of the ancient arts, crafts, and flavours of the Cimbrian tradition. There is a wide range of activities on offer for tourists: skiing and snowboarding, hiking and mountain biking, climbing and horse riding, golf and relaxation, as well as art and culture. On the Alpe Cimbra table you will find genuine, local products. In the land of alpine pastures and freshly milked milk, meat processed according to ancient methods, honey and honeydew, vegetables grown as they were a thousand years ago, traditional sweets and organic fruit, the secrets of the mountain storerooms come alive. The excellent products range from Vézzena cheese to fragrant speck, from goat’s cheese to strudel, from small fruits to Vigolana pears and chestnuts, from honey to Nosellari leeks, all the way to the magic of “rainbow eggs”. The authentic aroma of the Alpe Cimbra can also be enjoyed in a glass: from grappa to beers, from juices to fruit infusions, without forgetting wine and rum.
Lavarone lake, suitable for swimming and awarded with the Blue Flag in 2021.