giulia squellati
portfolio 1
fashion design
2
contents About Me
5
Skin
6
knitwear collection
Lost In Translation
20
The Great Gatsby
34
Artica
50
Helmut Lang
60
�良
68
The Havana High-Life
76
Going Against The Grain
86
capsule collection
knitwear collection
sportswear collection
merchandising
denim collection
resort collection
draping
3
4
00
about me
I graduated in Fashion Design and attended courses at both Politecnico di Milano and Thomas Jefferson University in Philadelphia. I have a great passion for knitwear and graphic design. In my free time, the thing I prefer to do is visit museums: I appreciate any kind of exhibition as long as I can feel a connection when I look at a work of art. For my projects, I take inspiration from art, culture, design and above all from my personal experiences. I love to travel and I am fascinated by big cities and different cultures because I think they are extremely stimulating from a creative point of view. One of the most satisfying emotions I have ever experienced is to see a project finally completed after having believed in it and having worked hard for its realisation.
contact me
giulia.squellati@gmail.com +39 3495721468
5
/ SKILLS Concept development Knitwear design Sketching Flats drawing Yarns selection Knitting Shooting
01
The inspiration for my bachelor degree thesis in knitwear, Skin, comes from the exhibition “Where I Want To Go” by Tracey Emin and Egon Schiele, held at the Leopold Museum in Vienna in 2015. In “Where I Want To Go” Tracey Emin, a controversial contemporary artist, embarks on a fascinating artistic dialogue, displaying not only her works but also a personal selection of drawings by Egon Schiele, the famous painter of the first Viennese expressionism. What emerges is a satisfying mix of emotions, dominated by the omnipresence of the body shaped by love, sex, suffering and loneliness. A dominant and fundamental theme that can be perceived throughout the exhibition, but also in the production of both artists, is the personal reading of the theme of nudity. The body gets rid of its erotic charge and is merely interpreted for what it is: a container of feelings made of skin, bones, joints, muscles and veins. These thoughts are developed into a knitwear collection that is halfway between clothing and lingerie, characterized by a palette of nude colours, with a few hints of cooler tones. The romantic setting hides a strong need for introspection and abandonment to the emotional impulse present in each of us.
6
skin BACHELOR DEGREE THESIS
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
/ SKILLS Brand analysis Trend research Concept development Fashion design Draping Sketching Fabric research Flats drawing
02
Capsule collection created for the Milanese brand MSGM, which combines in a perfect match streetwear, tailoring and femininity, all characterized by an innovative use of the logo. The collection’s inspiration comes from the movie Lost In Translation, written and directed by Sofia Coppola. At the centre of the story is the feeling of solitude and alienation that can be felt when travelling in a country with culture, language and habits that are profoundly different from your own. The shapes and volumes of the garments are drawn from traditional Japanese clothes, such as the kimono and the yukata, and from the obi’s knotting techniques. On the other hand, the fabrics reflect the brand’s stylistic codes, such as denim (simple or shibori) and knitwear.
20
PHILADELPHIA UNIVERSITY
INDUSTRY PROJECT
IN TRASLATION
LOST
MSGM IS A FASHION BRAND BORN IN 2009 AND FOUNDED BY MASSIMO GIORGETTI IN PARTNERSHIP WITH THE PAOLONI GROUP. INTERPRETING THE LATEST TRENDS IN A KALEIDOSCOPIC AND ARTSY DIMENSION, MSGM IS A FREE SPIRIT, WITH A VOCATION FOR ALL THAT IS IMMEDIATE AND CUTTINGEDGE. ‘NEVER LOOK BACK, IT’S ALL AHEAD’ IS THE BRAND’S MISSION: THE ABILITY TO SPEAK TO THE PRESENT HAS MADE MSGM ONE OF THE MOST ACCLAIMED BRANDS OF TODAY’S FASHION SCENE. 22
WILD FOOLISH FOREVER
OVERSIZED SILHOUETTES, SWEATSHIRTS, DENIM, RUFFLES. 23
SOFT EDO
POP EDO
24
TREND
RESEARCH 25
26
27
28
29
32
oversized puffer with digital shibori print on denim
organic cotton t-shirt with screen printed logo / patent leather pants with 33 side stripes
/ SKILLS Concept development Knitwear design Flats drawing Yarns selection Knitting Shooting
03
The complex and exaggerated world described by Scott Fitzgerald in his greatest masterpiece, The Great Gatsby, is the starting point of a knitwear collection in collaboration with the brand Missoni. The nightly atmosphere and the enveloping lights of the shooting bring the garments to a by now distant and forgotten era, that never ceases to enchant with its charm and its contradictions. The shapes and volumes cite the past, but at the same time, they break away from it creating a new concept of modernity. Sparkles, fringes and geometric patterns are the main themes that, together with the juxtaposition of colours, weights and textures, express the passions and feelings contained in the pages of a timeless book. The result is a combination of strength and elegance, refinement and simplicity. The three final outfits, each for a different occasion of use, were made with domestic knitting machines.
/ CREDITS Barbara Pacchioni Claudia Raitè Silvia Romano Angelica Vandi 34
the
great
gatsby 35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
Barbara Pacchioni, Claudia Raitè, Silvia Romano, Giulia Squellati, Angelica Vandi
48
Some pages of the editorial made with the support of the software Kaledo Style for the digitization of the sketches and Kaledo Knit for the rendering of knitted fabrics. The book develops directly on the pages of Scott Fitzgerald’s book.
49
/ SKILLS Concept development Brand identity Graphic design Fashion design Fabric reseach Flats drawing Sewing Shooting
04
Artica is a collection of eight suits designed for a possible job of the future. The setting is the North Pole, where the first hotel will be built in 2038, thanks to the research conducted on the polar cap by a visionary team of architects and engineers. The result is a new concept of holiday based on being in contact with unexplored nature and being involved in extreme sports, without giving up comfort and luxury accommodations. The experiences vary between snow bike, snowkiting, shuttle tour, whale safari, ice climbing, ice diving, ice sculpting and northern lights photography. Every suit is designed to endure extreme weather conditions and guarantee functionality, visibility, safety, comfort and, at the same time, ensure the best performance for its specific task.
/ CREDITS Barbara Pacchioni Angelica Vandi 50
51
Gallery ▴ My Reservations ▴ Contact ▴ Blog ▴ News |
ROOMS ▴ EXPERIENCES ▴ EXCLUSIVE OFFERS
HEART OF THE
ARCTIC Artica Hotel represents the new era of travelling, joining the wild nature with the comfort of a luxury holiday spot. The complex is set above the 90th parallel, the so called “roof of the world”, an unexplored land until 2023. Be ready to take on a legendary experience in limitless and untouched spaces with their typical fauna. Polar bears, walruses, seals, whales, thousands of birds living free and proliferating in the white immensity. The North Pole: now with Artica is possible!
52
| English
RESERVATION
EXPERIENCES EXPERIENCES SNOWBIKE SNOWBIKE
SNOWKITING SNOWKITING
SHOUTTLE TOUR SHOUTTLE TOUR
WHALE SAFARI WHALE SAFARI
ICE CLIMBING ICE CLIMBING
ICE DIVING ICE DIVING
ICE SCULPTING ICE SCULPTING
NORTHERN LIGHTS NORTHERN LIGHTS
ICE ICE CLIMBING CLIMBING
ROOMS ROOMS Classic Room Classic Room Deluxe Room Deluxe Room Superior Room Superior Room Suite Suite Igloo Cabin Igloo Cabin
EXPERIENCES EXPERIENCES Snowbike Snowbike Snowkiting Snowkiting Shouttle Tour Shouttle Tour Whale Safari Whale Safari Ice Climbing Ice Climbing Ice Diving Ice Diving Ice Sculpting Ice Sculpting Northern Lights Northern Lights
Usually ice climbing refers Usually ice climbing refers to roped and protected to roped of and protected climbing freatures climbing of freatures such as icefalls, frozen such as icefalls, frozen waterfalls and iced cliffs waterfalls andNow, icedwith cliffs or rock slabs. our or rock tour slabs. our guided andNow, our with special guided tour can and our special gear you experience gear can experience this you extreme adventure this extreme climbing a properadventure iceberg climbing on top aofproper the iceberg world. on top of the world.
ABOUT US ABOUT US One Team One Team Work With Us Work With Us Hospitality Hospitality Offices Offices Press Press Partners Partners
GALLERY GALLERY BLOG BLOG GROUPS GROUPS CONCTACT CONCTACT NEWS NEWS
FOLLOW US FOLLOW US NEWSLETTER NEWSLETTER Subscribe Subscribe
53
54
From left to right: the suits of Artica guide, Expedition guide, Rescuer, Sleeping jacket, Cleaner, Shuttle driver, Receptionist and Baselayer.
55
The Solar Circuit is a special fabric designed for Artica in 100% aluminium covered polyethene that has the ability to retain heat coming from sun rays and bringing it to the whole jacket’s surface. In this way, it can be both light and warm, acting like a proper shield against the cold.
The fabrics Rubbed care, Thermo shell, Neoprene and Net.
56
57
58
59
/ SKILLS Brand analysis Collection analysis Fabric research Trend research Merchandising SKU analysis Sketching
05
This project was the final assignment the course Strategic Design & Merchandising at Philadelphia University. After choosing a collection to analyze, the first step was to identify the stories it was made of and make relative mood boards for each of them. For Helmut Lang SS18, I created Deconstructed Bondage, Nasty Princess and Sharp Minimalism. The next steps were the analysis of the colour palette, the fabrics used and the trends of the season. From here, with the help of the SKU analysis, my task was to understand what pieces the collection was laking and create some line additions to balance the overall proposal, still maintaining the same inspiration, silhouettes, cuts, colours and style.
60
SPRING 2018 RTW
PHILADELPHIA UNIVERSITY
STRATEGIC DESIGN & MERCHANDISING
61
62
SHARP MINIMALISM
NASTY PRINCESS
DECONSTRUCTED BONDAGE
BASIC COLORS
PITCH BLACK
OPTIC WHITE
NUDE IVORY
CORE COLORS
PERFECT PINK
SKY BLUE
HIGHLIGHT COLORS
LIPSTICK RED
BURNT ORANGE
63
FINE WOOL TWILL
GLITTER LOGO PRINT
100% WOOL Imported, of fabric from Italy Used for: coat, blazer, tie, bra, dress, skirt, pants.
LACQUERED SILK
FOIL PRINTING Used on: fine wool twill.
SILK NYLON GAZAAR
55% POLYAMIDE, 45% SILK Imported, of fabric from Italy Used for: top, dress, skirt, pants.
100% SILK Imported Used for: coat, top, bra, dress, skirt.
SPARKLE ORGANZA
HEAVY CORDURA
100% NYLON Imported, of fabric from Switzerland Used for: coat.
55% SILK, 45% LUREX Imported Used for: dress.
PATENT LAMBSKIN
METALLIC LEATHER
100% LAMB LEATHER Imported Used for: dress, skirt.
64
100% LAMB LEATHER Imported, of Italian leather Used for: coat.
OCCASIONS OF USE UNBALANCED
BALANCED Work informal Work21% informal 21%
Work informal Work informal 32% 32%
Special occasion 32%
Special occasion informal 32%
Special occasion 55% Special occasion informal 55%
Leisure Leisure casual casual 23% 23% Leisure casual Leisure casual 35% 35%
I decided to analyze the overall collection dividing it by occasions of use since it’s how I could better highlight the unbalances in it and have a general guideline on what to add in each category. I recognized three main occasions of use: special occasion informal, work informal and leisure causal. They are, however, very unbalanced, since the special occasion informal takes up 55% of the pie chart. My proposal is to balance them, giving more space to the leisure casual which is, most of the times, the category that sells the most, being it for everyday use and easier to merchandise.
65
66
LINE ADDITIONS
67
/ SKILLS Concept development Graphic design Fashion design Fabric research Flats drawing
06
The Japanese slang word “sukeban” means boss girl. Easily recognizable for their modified school uniforms and embroidered clothes related to their gangs, they were a symbol of rebellion among the youth and often created mayhem. Japanese pink films in the late ’70s featured “terrifying high school girls” who committed minor offences, taking on the nickname that means delinquent. The entirety of this denim collection is focused on the behaviour of the girl boss gang that is the Sukeban combined with the unexpected women Samurai, Onna-bugeisha. As well as pulling some inspiration from Yoko Ono’s writing “The Feminization of Society” (1972) and the bright colours of traditional prints. This collection explores the role of women in Japanese history, its often different from what society assumes. The final customer is a young woman that feels like a warrior in her everyday life, especially in how she goes against what is expected of her. She is her own tailor, often cutting, fixing, scruffing up her clothes to be different than the rest.
/ CREDITS Nanxi Guo Miriana Leccia Cassandra O’Toole 68
不良
DENIM COLLECTION
69
70
71
72
73
74
75
/ SKILLS Concept development Fashion design Fabric research Print design Sketching Flats drawing
07
The Havana High-Life is a project I realized when studying at Philadelphia University. The output is a Resort capsule collection, but the main focus is the research method used. The sketchbook’s pages are inspired by the island of Cuba and they are made with different techniques. In particular, I looked into the architecture of the capital, Havana, characterized by contrasts of art decò and modern buildings, but never abandoning the tropical feel of the place. The colour palette goes from the warm tones of orange and yellow to the pinks and the greens. The ideas for the silhouettes come from the collage technique. The fabric board is a contrast between smooth, silk-like materials and more natural and raw ones, that represent the same contrasts of the city.
76
havana
PHILADELPHIA UNIVERSITY
high-life
RESORT CAPSULE COLLECTION
77
78
79
80
81
82
Moodboard created taking inspiration from the sketchbook’s research.
83
84
85
/ SKILLS Concept development Fashion design Draping Sewing Shooting
08
Going Against The Grain is my first ever draping project. All I started with was a piece of black cady fabric and some grosgrain. The idea was to create a simple dress, one that anyone could feel confident wearing, but that at the same time maintained its elegance. During the creative process, I allowed myself to be inspired by how the fabric naturally folded and flowed on the mannequin. The main feature of the dress is its asymmetry. The final effect is a garment that hugs the body and frames the waist in two different points but still remaining loose. In the shooting, the striking elegance of the dress is juxtaposed with the underground setting, that features a metallic background and a dirty concrete floor.
/ CREDITS Cassandra O’Toole 86
G O I N G
A G A I N S T
T H E 87
G R A I N
88
The dress is inspired by the shape of the Heydar Aliyev Centre, designed by the worldfamous architect Zaha Hadid. The striking curves of the building create dark shadows that contrast with the light surface. Those effects were recreated by pleating the fabric but allowing it to flow naturally and to drape the body.
89
90
91
contacts
giulia.squellati@gmail.com +39 3495721468
92