April Issue 2012 by Rohini Manian

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India's Only Cultural Magazine for Global Citizens

Brought to you by Global Adjustments

Crown & Country

VOLUME 3, iSSUE 2 april 2012

culturama | april 2012

D e a r

R e a d e r s

Eight international women participated to honour of the Outstanding Woman of Culture

"Men often become what they believe themselves to be. If I believe I cannot do something, it makes me incapable of doing it. But when I believe I can, then I acquire the ability to do it even if I didn't have it in the beginning." Mahatma Gandhi A SIMPLE truth from a simple man, but it is this simplicity that brings about a profound change in our lives. Last month for me was about meeting such individuals, who inspire so naturally that you wonder if, perhaps, greatness is not something you acquire by virtue of your success, but by virtue of your being. Bombay Jayashri, HH Maharaja Gaj Singh II of Jodhpur, and Priya Ravichandran – each of them so different in the essence of their personalities, but similar in the essence of their spirit. And they all came together for Aikya 2012, our annual musical event for a cause. (full report on page 52). If Bombay Jayashri spoke to our hearts in the lilting vocabulary of her music, then His Highness Maharaj Gaj Singhji of Jodhpur, was the epitome of that rare combination of sovereignty and humility. As for Priya, that brave fire fighter who saved one of Chennai’s heritage buildings from ruin, and the first recipient of our Outstanding Woman Defending Culture Award, it was her actions that spoke the loudest, even if her injuries didn’t allow her to make it to the event. Somehow, at Culturama, we felt that these three individuals represented the sentiments of a bygone era of kindoms and palaces – a celebrated musician, a just king and a brave soldier. And so this issue, we bring to you that era, that forgotten history, through our Coffee and Conversation with HH Maharaja Gaj Singhji, a comprehensive Feature on the Palaces of India, and a personal journey of a historian in Notes from a Diary. New beginnings are also in order in the southern part of India as Tamil and Kerala New Years are celebrated in April. Do take a look at our Interpretations column that gives you a glimpse of this festival. The country too goes into its new fiscal year! And finally, new beginnings remind me of where we are today with this magazine. Did you know that you are holding the 198th issue of Culturama in your hands? Stay tuned for our very special 200th issue this June that will celebrate India like never before. Till then, happy reading! And do visit us online at www. globaladjustments.com for past issues of our magazine. Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief To contact me directly, e-mail globalindian@globaladjustments.com

Follow us on YouTube! We are at http://www.youtube.com/user/globaladjustments and bring to you exciting videos about the happenings at Global Adjustments.

culturama | april 2012

contents 8 Coffee & Conversation

Living Life, King size

12 A-Z of INdia

Gods All Mighty

Perfectly capturing the power and panache of sovereign India, we couldn’t have chosen a better cover image for our special issue on the Palaces of India. This portrait, of His Highness Maharaja Sardar Singh of Jodhpur, “was painted when he granted a customary darshan (glimpse) to his people in royal attire, complete with all that an Indian Maharaja is expected to wear, as well as his proud British decorations”.

16 curry country

Royal Well Fare

20 notes from a diary

His Story 22 Feature

Avant Grande 28 Look who's in town

Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru and Chennai

42 Calendars Editor-in-Chief

Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru and Chennai

Ranjini Manian

business head tiia vaataja Consultant Editor praveena shivram

46 Bursting the bubble

Assistant Editor

vatsalya janani

creative head

JayaKrishna Behera

Associate Designer

Prem Kumar

Priced Possessions

Chennai trishla jain Delhi-NCR

Preeti Bindra, Ruchika Srivastava

Mumbai & Pune

Farah Bakhshay, Ashish Chaulkar

Advisory Committee

Timeri N Murari, N Ram, Elaine Wood, James J Williams, G Venket Ram, Carmen HUTHOEFER-HEINRICH

A Heritage to Remember 50 India & I

The Silent Valley

53 TALES OF INDIA

The Rupee Tree

56 GLOBAL CITIZEN

Advertising Bengaluru mukundan T

48 Cause And Effect

Eyes Wide Shut

58 Holistic living

The War Within

60 MYTH AND MYTHOLOGY

Life in the Balance

61 Festivals

Cover Courtesy The Maharaja of Jodhpur, Umaid Bhawan – “The Maharaja of Palaces” India Book House Publishing ISBN: 81-7508-424-3

Easter, Vishu, Baisakhi, Akshaya Tritiya

Chennai 5, 3rd Main Road, R. A. Puram, Chennai 600028, India. Telefax. +91-44-24617902 E-mail: culturama@globaladjustments.com

62 PHOTO FEATURE

Bengaluru 216, Prestige Center Point, Off Cunningham Road, 7, Edward Road, Bengaluru 560052. Tel.+91-80-41267152/41148540. E-mail: culturamablr@globaladjustments.com

64 Tell us your story

Delhi-NCR Level 4, Augusta Point, DLF Golf Course Road, Sector-53, Gurgaon - 122 002. Haryana. Tel.+91-124-435 4236. E-mail: del@globaladjustments.com

66 space and the city

The House Whisperer

Mumbai/Pune Rustom Court, 2nd Floor, Dr. Annie Besant Road, Worli, Mumbai 400030. Tel.+91-22-66104191/2 E-mail: mum@globaladjustments.com Published and owned by Ranjini Manian at #5, 3rd Main Road, Raja Annamalai Puram, Chennai – 600028 and printed by K Srinivasan of Srikals Graphics Pvt Ltd at #5, Balaji Nagar, 1st Street, Ekkattuthangal, Chennai – 600032. Editor: Ranjini Manian

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india on your fingertips

Letters to the Editor RAJASTHAN Also Called: The Land of Kings

Dear Editor, “I got bitten by the travel bug after seeing the Nilgiri Mountain train picture on the back cover of the last issue! We will travel in May.” -— Jaana Pajula, Chennai Dear Editor, “Kudos to Culturama! Your beautiful and beneficial cultural magazine that lands in my postbox promptly, month after month. I am always excited to open the sealed flap of the cover, because it feels like I am unwrapping an organza gift bag that has a bunch of goodies inside for me!” — Suchitra S, Chennai Dear Editor, “The March issue of Culturama was very colourful, of excellent quality with interesting articles. Congratulations!” -— Lata Ghosh, Mumbai

Despite giving most of itself away to dry desert sands, Rajasthan exudes a unique charm that continues to lure one and all. Sand dunes, wooded hills and mirror-like lakes, palaces and rugged forts, men and women in colourful turbans and skirts, bustling towns and quiet villages, camels, elephants and tigers, the relentless sun and magical evenings, it is no wonder then that Rajasthan rightly carries the sobriquet of The Land of Kings. Official Language: Hindi and Rajasthani State Flower: Rohida that flowers on the desert teak, is an indigenous tree of this region. Just like Rajasthan, it is dry and deciduous to look at, but when in a full bloom, it is a treat for the eyes. State Capital: Jaipur Literally meaning ‘the city of victory’, Jaipur is a city that is steeped in history and beauty. With lakes, palaces, forts and temples, Jaipur is an architectural splendour. Ruled by the kings from the Rajput clan, Jaipur has bustling markets filled with traditional arts and crafts. This city was decorated with pink terracotta to welcome Prince Albert after which it got the nickname ‘The Pink City’. Other famous Jaisalmer, Udaipur

cities:

Bikaner,

Jodhpur,

Famous Landmark: Jantar Mantar Constructed with local stone and marble, Jantar Mantar is a planetarium that is larger than life. It is modeled after the one in Delhi.The observatory has a collection of architectural astronomical instruments to predict eclipses, measure time, celestial altitudes and related ephemeris. Delicacy: Bajre ki roti, Bikaneri bhujia A bread made out of millets, bajre ki roti is Rajasthan’s staple food. An all-time favourite is Bikaneri bhujia, a snack made out of gram flour. This delicacy is now available off the shelf in most cities in India, sold by Haldirams.

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Sensitivity to our heritage must be inculcated from childhood. It must be a part of the education system. It is up to us to conserve and restore, reuse and enjoy for posterity

Living life King Size A PART of every childhood is spent in imaginary palaces and castles. Battles are fought, dragons are attacked, princes and princesses are saved, kings and queens are created and in this fairyland we leave a little of ourselves, in the hope that we will come back again someday. Meeting His Highness Maharaj Gaj Singh II of Jodhpur was akin to bringing that aspect of childhood alive. Except that this was real life. The charisma remains but with it comes the truth that royalty is not a tag to play around with, but a responsibility to shoulder. A pioneer of the Heritage Hotel industry in India, and part of the Governing Council of the Indian National Trust for Art And Cultural Heritage (INTACH), HH Maharaj Gaj Singh II of Jodhpur talks to Culturama about what it truly means to be living life king size. You were anointed the King of Marwar at a very young age. Looking back, do you feel the responsibility that came so early and unexpectedly took away a part of your childhood? I ascended the throne after my father’s tragic demise in a plane crash, at the tender age of four. Although I do not recall much of my coronation, I knew that something very important was happening, which would have a bearing on my future. But I don’t think it detracted any part of my childhood, which I spent like any other child, in the loving care of my mother, grandmother and sisters, except that I missed my father. I was rather pampered and spoilt till I left for Eton at the age of eight. Of course, I have

enjoyed some of the benefits of regal life, although my upbringing wasn’t all luxury and comfort. When I was studying abroad in Eton and Oxford, I was not allowed any special treatment and had to live like the rest with very limited pocket money! But somewhere at the back of my mind, I always knew that I had an important role to play, and once I grew up there would be lots of responsibilities to shoulder. What have you preserved as part of your Eton upbringing? Everything that I learnt while I was there, particularly cultural conservation. I have great respect for my Marwari culture, traditions, customs and rituals, which are observed in our family even today. Eton, and the friends, I made there has made me appreciate my heritage. Could you share with us one of the toughest times you have had to face and how you overcame it? It was 1971. I had just graduated from Oxford and returned home when the Privileges and Privy purses were withdrawn. by the government The red carpet had been swept away from under our feet. It was a very trying time. I knew I had a responsibility towards my people and my heritage; I had to take important decisions and face challenges and above all keep myself on top of the situation, as everything, at that point of time, had turned against us. I set about converting my home Umaid Bhawan Palace into a hotel so that by the revenue generated, it could be maintained and our old staff retained. That was a very difficult period.

culturama | april 2012

India’s youth should be Indian and think global. They should stay in touch with their roots wherever they may go. It is this distinctiveness that should make them proud Indians.

Was it a difficult choice to make, converting your own home into a heritage hotel, or was it a natural transition into the future of tourism? It had already been done in Jaipur and Udaipur and seemed the need of the times; after the abolition of privy purses it was becoming virtually impossible for all erstwhile rulers to maintain their palaces or their rich traditional past. So tourism became their succour. A few palaces, forts & havelis became founder members, including myself, and together we started the Indian Heritage Hotels Association (IHHA), which today has 174 members under its umbrella. By pioneering the Heritage Hotels movement, we were able to connect with the new age entrepreneurial spirit and convert financially draining assets into earning propositions. What do you think are some of the everyday things we can do to retain India’s cultural heritage? Sensitivity to our heritage must be inculcated from childhood. It must be a part of the education system. Children must be taught the importance and relevance of respecting and preserving our heritage, as it is not something that can be recreated. So it is up to us to conserve and restore, reuse and enjoy for posterity. What do you think is at the core of India and her culture? India, as we all know, is a land of diversity – in castes, culture, religion, and language. Each state has its own native dialect, its distinct culture, customs, festivals, mode of dress, etc. Yet it is seen that all important festivals are celebrated on the same dates all over – what differs is only the name or maybe the way of

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celebrating it. The thoughts and sentiments are the same, as we belong to one civilisational entity, evolved over centuries, long before we became one nation after independence. Where do you draw your identity from – The title of King, Marwar-Jodhpur or India? All are part of me and my identity. India is my country and I am proud to be an Indian citizen, but MarwarJodhpur was a large principality of this country. It was where I was born, and that’s where my heritage lies. What would your advice be to young India? My advice to India’s youth is that they should be Indian and think global. Today our own country lacks nothing and everything is available here. There are job opportunities in every field, the economy is looking up, and there is growth and development all around. The youth should stay in touch with their roots wherever they may go. It is this distinctiveness that should make them proud Indians. What’s your advice to expatriates coming to do business with India? That they should think long term. India has opened its doors to foreign investors in many sectors. There are lots of business opportunities here and there is good scope for expansion and development. Ultimately, India’s vast educated youth bank will be the workforce of the world. Finally, as a leader, what do you think are the three golden rules of success? A long-term vision, building and carrying your team with you and to strike the right balance between the past and present while keeping the future in mind. .

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A to Z of India v a t s a l y a ja n a n i

GODS all mighty

Photo: Wikipedia

Vayu The masterofsoft,caressing breeze as well as furious gales, Vayu is the God of Wind. He rides a stunning chariot drawn by a thousand purple and white horses. It is believed that in a test of strength, Vayu blew the top of a mountain and it fell into the ocean to form Sri Lanka!

Varuna The God of Rains and Oceans, Varuna is dressed in an armour of gold and rides a sea monster. His pleasure is expressed by seasonal showers and displeasure by droughts and floods. Photo: Wikipedia

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Photo: aghorpir.blogspot.com

Indra The king of heaven and the leader of all the gods, Indra is often depicted riding a white elephant called Airavat, and is armed with a thunderbolt.

Photo: chitradirgha.blogspot.in

When you enter the realm of gods in India, you are literally entering the sanctum sanctorum of 330 million gods! While it is impossible for us to give you a definitive guide, we introduce you to some of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lesser known gods who adorn the court of Lord Indra

Agni It means fire in Sanskrit and so, Agni is the Vedic God of Fire. In Hinduism, many rituals involve a holy fire that is used to invoke the gods. Agni acts as the divine connection between the mortal and the immortal world, ferrying offerings and gifts across. He wears a red sarong and carries a flame over his crown.

Kubera He enjoys the post of Treasurer of the Gods. This pot-bellied god is typically adorned with a lot of jewellery. In fact, legend has it that Lord Vishnu, who is believed to have taken a hefty sum as a loan for his sisterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; marriage, is still paying it back through his devotees who throng the famous temple in Tirupati. And rumour has it that Lord Vishnu is only still paying the interest!

Kama An Indian version of Cupid, Kama literally means passion or desire. He is extraordinarily handsome and has a parrot for a mount. His weapons of love are a bow made of sugarcane with a string of honeybees, and his arrows decorated with five kinds of fragrant flowers. The Kama Sutra, literally meaning the story of passion, is named after him.

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Urvashi She is one of the celestial angels who entertain Indra and his courtiers. With unparalleled beauty and grace, she is also the Spirit of the Clouds.

Photo:boostdam.net

Surya This proud Sun God is one of the most important gods in India. He wears an orange or yellow sarong and rides a golden chariot pulled by seven horses representing the seven days of the week.

Photo: Wikipedia

Rambha The Queen of all Angels, Rambha is said to have no rivals in the art of dance, music and passion. She is often sent to Earth by Indra to seduce meditating rishis as a test of their devotion.

Photo: vedadhrishti.com

Yama The Lord of Death, he presides over the Judgement Day and decides what every creature deserves. This dark lord rides a buffalo and carries a noose in his hand. As much as he is feared, he is also supposed to be the wisest of all the gods.

Photo: Wikipedia

Chandra The Moon God with a pearly complexion, he presides over the night sky. He is also believed to be the God of Fertility and is worshipped by couples who yearn for a child.

Menaka Another celestial angel who fell in love with a mortal and mothered the beautiful Shakuntala, the heroine of one of Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best-known epic love story, Abhignyana Shakuntalam, written by renowned poet-saint, Kalidasa.

Photo: V Chandra Photo: Wikipedia

Photo: brihaspati.tripod.com

Brihaspati A Sanskrit word meaning teacher, Brihaspati is the divine advisor and guru of the Gods. He is the personification of piety and is depicted as a goldencomplexioned person, bearing his signature stick, a lotus and a chain of holy beads.

Tilottama Her name means the one with the highest qualities, and Tilottama, who was quite an enchantress, lived up to it. Legend has it that Indra was so charmed by her that he grew a thousand eyes, just to watch her and melt in her beauty!

Photo: Wikipedia

culturama | april 2012

curry country p o o n am M G a n g l a n i

Royal Well Fare Characterised by elegant spreads, full flavours and perfect attention to detail, Uttar Pradesh’s cuisine contains whispers of a bygone, royal era

IF YOU ever have the good fortune of being invited for a simple meal at Uttar Pradesh, do not be deceived by the modest invitation. In a state that once played host to royalty, simplicity on the plate is, understandably, quite inconceivable. The central region of Awadh in Uttar Pradesh is recognised as the unrivalled ambassador of the state’s culinary identity. Historically governed by the Mughal Empire and by Nawabs of Persian descent, Awadh has had a culinary lineage of exquisite flavours, fastidious preparation techniques and aristocratic presentation. These qualities have been preserved in the region’s modernday cuisine, making each meal, quite literally, fit for a king. Every meticulous detail is covered in a traditional Awadhi feast. To begin with, nimbu sharbat, a spiced lemon beverage, is served as a welcome drink, preparing the palate for the yakhni shorba or mutton stock soup that follows. Featuring next is the fare’s pièce de résistance: a sinful, voluptuous spread of kebabs. The popular galawati kebab, originally developed as a recipe for aging, toothless Nawabs, consists of minced lamb tenderised by raw papaya. True to its intention, the silky delicacy glides effortlessly down the throat, leaving little labour for the jaws. Equally interesting in origin is the kakori kebab, christened after its birthplace in Uttar Pradesh. The story goes that an

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exacting Nawab, determined to please his British guests, commanded his royal cook known as the ‘khansama’ to develop a thingrain, near-deliquescent kebab. Using kidney fat as a binder for the meat, the khansama successfully created what would become one of the region’s culinary classics. These indulgences however, are merely meant to tease the appetite, for the lavish main course that follows merits equal gastronomic appreciation. Nehari, a lamb-based gravy cooked in turmeric paste, or korma, a mixture of meat or vegetables braised in yoghurt, are relished with a variety of breads. Among them is the sensuously textured sheermal made from white flour, clarified butter and milk, delicately flavoured with saffron and baked in a clay oven. Also part of the fare is the aromatic pulao, a mixed rice preparation that seduces the palate with its full, yet gentle flavours of saffron and cloves. But the best, as they say, is always saved for last. With the saffron-laced rice pudding, zafrani kheer, or the sweet vermicelli delight, muzaffar, the Awadhi feast is brought to a satiating close. Despite the elaborate courses, the symphonic blend of spices and the regal presentation, the state’s cuisine remains unpretentious in its equanimous flavours and spices. Herein lies the unfailing culinary charm of Uttar Pradesh – the same one that has taken its courtly cuisine all across the nation and the globe.

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Dhal Shammi (green lentil kebabs) Ingredients Green lentils — 1 kg Refined oil — 100 gm Turmeric powder — 10 gm Ginger paste — 50 gm Garlic paste — 50 gm Mace powder — 3 gm Attar (aromatic syrup) — 2 drops Cardamom powder — 5 gm Saffron — 1 gm Red chilly powder — 30 gm Salt to taste Sandalwood powder — 5 gm Bay leaf — 5 gm Roasted chickpeas —100 gm

Special Thanks to Chef M. Rehman, Kitchenett-E-Awadh, Lucknow, for sharing some intriguing facts about Awadhi cuisine. Chef Rehman was part of the Lucknow Food Festival at Minar in Hotel Savera, Chennai, earlier this year.

In the Kitchen To keep cauliflower a bright white, add a little milk while boiling.

Photo & Recipe Courtesy Minar, Hotel Savera, Chennai

Keep yolks centered in eggs by stirring the water while cooking hard-boiled eggs. To prevent soggy salads, place an inverted saucer at the bottom of the salad bowl. The excess liquid drains off under the saucer, keeping the salad fresh and crisp.

Method 1. Lightly fry green lentils in refined oil. 2. At normal temperature, boil the lentils with chickpeas, bay leaf, ginger paste, garlic paste, turmeric powder, saffron, red chilly powder and salt for 30 minutes.

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5. Add drops of attar and roll the mixture into round or oval-shaped patties.

3. Drain the vessel of water and put all the ingredients into a blender. Process to a fine lentil paste.

Quick Bytes ▪ The hundred-year-old ‘Tunde ke Kebab’ in Lucknow, the modern-day capital of Uttar Pradesh, is one of the city’s most-visited food stalls thanks to its unsurpassed offering of succulent kebabs. • Uttar Pradesh’s cuisine is said to comprise one of the heaviest diets in the world. Almonds, sunflower seeds and cashews, often used as garnishing in other cuisines, are principal ingredients in many dishes. • The state is also famous for its variety of chaat, a popular snack in India. Chowk ki tikki, a potatobased chaat savoured with a raw mango and jaggery sauce, is a coveted specialty in Chowk Market, Lucknow.

Liked this recipe? Buzz her on mykitchenantics@gmail.com

4. Knead the mixture and add the remaining spices: mace powder, cardamom powder and sandalwood powder.

In Season Mangosteen Where: Nilgiris, Kanyakumari and Kerala, between August and October. What: Rich in xanthone, it is known to fight against cancer and arthritis. When: Although fibrous and tough to open at first, it softens and is easy to open upon ripening. How: Peel the shell and cut the fruit into four segments, and then eat the white flesh inside.

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notes from a diary A M A N N A TH

His Story 20

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Historian, architect, writer and poet, Aman Nath takes us on a personal journey through the pages of history

MY EARLIEST memories of my tryst with history are picnics in the historical monuments of Delhi. And then, from age eight, when we moved to Nizamuddin, my favoutire was Humayun’s Tomb, where I often wandered in all its surrounding ruins. I loved going down to the crypt, where the real grave is, and would sometimes even take my canvas bed for a siesta and homework in the gateway that leads to the Arab-ke-Sarai. It was here that I began to appreciate our culture and civilisation, that it differentiates us from the others. I also realised that history is a lesson, so the historian becomes a teacher, often cautioning the present. But no one seems to learn from the mistakes of others – so they must make their own, to burn themselves before they know the dangers of fire. Record, publish or perish is at the core of that wellspring of history within. It is what I did in college, and that taught me to value time and be hyper-aware of its passage. Today, as an architect working at restoring heritage hotels, I touch historical buildings with this awareness. Although I look at it more as ‘revitalisation’,

giving a new lease of life, in which a building must look after its own viability and sustainability into the future. To me, that’s very similar to poetry. Poetry too is building. A great line remains physically on the skyline of the mind – like Pablo Neruda writing to his love, ‘Your smile is my bread’. From a historian to architectural restoration has been a continuous and naturally linked process. Architectural restoration is physical heritage and history is the thread through which all the past building activity can actually be strung. I think the connect came when I saw that many of the tales of history seemed to lead only to heaps of rubble! These needed to be brought up to their original nobility. Treasures can more easily change hands or be destroyed while architecture is more likely to sit around. To think that Shah Jahan’s heirs fought over the ‘chadar’ (blanket) of a million Basra pearls at the Taj Mahal, which covered the graves of Mumtaz Mahal and Shah Jahan, when the real treasure was the Taj itself. As laymen, we don’t consciously anticipate change, and yet it is inevitable. It happens unseen every day, till it finally comes as a visual surprise or shock. As a city modernises, the juxtapositions of the past become even more radically contrasted. But then, if we overdo nostalgia, then action in the present is sure to suffer. We need to relate to history by a hyper-awareness of Time, with a capital T. That is our only asset. History sat as precariously on time, just as we sit today, losing it minute by minute. It is better to act full time so that its results show up when one looks back in hindsight. And so, every day I live out my dreams with my eyes open. Even though there is no end to dreaming, they must relate to action, with the right balance of enthusiasm, which is wise and moderated. In the Law of Diminishing Returns we learnt at school in Economics, there was a lesson: “The more you have of something, the less you want to have the more of it”.

The writer is founder of Neemrana ‘non-hotel’ Hotels, along with former French diplomat, Francis Wacziarg, an organisation dedicated to restoring ruins and converting them into heritage hotels. As told to Culturama’s Vatsalya Janani over an email interview. culturama | april 2012

feature Sar i t h a R a o

Avant Grand THERE is something indescribable about the allure of palaces, something about its antiquity that guarantees a transcendental experience. Hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a glimpse into some famous and lesser known royal residences that are yet to tread the path of luxury hotels. Some palaces have been converted to museums and some continue to be used partially as the residences of royal descendants. These are palaces whose halls and pavilions echo with the legends of romance, valour and sacrifice. 14th CENTURY, RANI PADMINI PALACE, CHITTAURGARH, RAJASTHAN Indian history is replete with legends of queens who showed great valour when faced with the threat of invading enemy forces. One such story is that of Rani Padmini, also called Padmavati, the second wife of the Rajput King, Rawal Ratan Singh. In 1303, when Allahuddin Khilji caught a glimpse of the Rani, he wanted to take her by force and attacked the kingdom. Seeing no other honourable way to escape, the Queen and the women of the kingdom performed a mass immolation called Jauhar, in what is today Rana Kumbha's Palace, so that their men could unflinchingly martyr themselves in battle. A reconstructed water palace of the Rani still stands today.

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North, South, East or West, Indiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s palaces are rich in architectural splendour and historical significance, and through the ages, continue to stand as symbols of antiquity.

The Mysore palace

Photo : Magali REYNAUD

16TH CENTURY, CITY PALACE COMPLEX, UDAIPUR, RAJASTHAN If there is one place that will dominate your visit to Udaipur, it would be this. Originally built by Maharana Udai Singh in 1553, the complex has lofty archways, ornate balconies and resplendent halls built in both Mughal and Rajput architectural styles. The museum houses a fine collection of miniature paintings, royal clothing, accessories and armour. Do visit the Mor Chowk with its intricate mosaic work featuring India's national bird, the peacock. BAAZ BAHADUR'S PALACE AND RUPMATI'S PAVILION, MANDU, MADHYA PRADESH While Mandu has a history that far pre-dates the legend of Rani Rupmati and Baaz Bahadur, it is this romantic story that has seeped into the folk songs of the region. Baaz Bahadur's love for music was rivalled only by his love for Rupmati. When Emperor Akbar's general, Adham Khan, invaded the region in 1561, the defeated Baaz Bahadur fled, but Rupmati killed herself before being captured. Ahmad-ul-Umri's culturama | april 2012

OrchhaPalace, Photo Courtesy: Wikipedia

structures, built in Mughal style 'The Lady of the Lotus – Rupmati, to commemorate the victory of Queen of Mandu' contains poems Mughal Emperor Jehangir over of love and longing attributed to Vir Singh Deo. There are various Rupmati as well as a brief recounting Kevin Schaffter : Agra Fort Son et Lumiere shows at Orccha of the legend. Rupmati's Pavilion and including the Jehangir Mahal, Baaz Bahadur's Palace in the complex overlook each other, the Raj Mahal and the Cenotaphs – do check the timing as separated only by the Rewa Kund reservoir. Mandu is at it differs by season of the year. its romantic best in the monsoon. Also explore the other palaces in the complex, such as Jahaz Mahal and the Hindola 17TH CENTURY Mahal, not linked to the legend. LEH PALACE, LADAKH, JAMMU & KASHMIR AGRA FORT PALACE, AGRA, If you feel breathless when you look UTTAR PRADESH up at the imposing facade of the Leh While the Taj Mahal garners eyeballs Palace and the Victory Tower, it may at dusk, a more romantic view can be not necessarily be altitude sickness, it had from the palace inside the Agra Fort. could be awe. The palace nestled atop The fort was built by Emperor Akbar, a hill was built by King Semgge Namgyal completed in 1573, but the palaces on similar lines to the Potala Palace of Lhasa, Tibet. The inside have been razed and rebuilt nine-storeyed palace is in ruins and currently undergoing depending on who occupied it. Akbar's restoration, but there are some spectacular views to be had grandson, Shah Jahan, was imprisoned here by his own son, from the top. Aurangzeb. From the exquisite white marble Musamman Burj, a splendid view of the Taj Mahal can be had. This balcony THIRUMALAI NAYAKAR MAHAL, is rumoured to have been where Shah Jahan died, gazing MADURAI, TAMIL NADU at the Taj Mahal. Do visit the Jahangiri Mahal and the Khas Built in 1636 by King Thirumalai Mahal too. The structures are an interesting mix of Hindu Nayak and presumably designed by an and Islamic architecture. Italian architect, what remains today of this once-magnificent palace is only a FORT PALACE COMPLEX, courtyard and a few pavilions. But this ORCHHA, MADHYA PRADESH is enough to give an insight into the Orchha is the land of the Bundelas, a amalgam of the two styles incorporated here – Islamic community of Rajput warriors renowned and Dravidian. The most striking feature of the palace are for their great sense of aesthetics. It the 13-metre tall pillars, plastered with shell lime and egg is a region rich with the heritage of white for a smooth finish. The pavilions are exquisite in their numerous temple towers, pavilions, stucco work depicting celestial beings and winged beasts. If cenotaphs and palaces. Admire the you stay for the Son-et-Lumiere at 18.30h, do take along a intricate trellises and the fine wall art in mosquito repellent. the Raj Mahal. The Sunder Mahal is now an Islamic pilgrimage spot. The Jehangir Mahal is by far the most imposing of the

culturama | april 2012

pHOTO cOURTESY: wIKIPEDIA

Marble Palace, Kolkatta

photo: Kerstin Vieth

19TH CENTURY MARBLE PALACE, KOLKATA A permit is required in advance from the West Bengal Tourism office to see this neo-classical residential building. A walk through the Marble Palace, built by Raja Rajendra Mullick Bahadur, is a fascinating way of acquainting oneself with the ways of the opulent Bengalis of the 1800s. It has a wonderful collection of art, sculpture, furniture and bric-a-bracs and the name seems to have come from the profusion and variety of marble used in its construction. As this is also a private residence, some areas may be off-limits. 20TH CENTURY MAHARAJAH'S PALACE, MYSORE, KARNATAKA Being a more recently built palace compared to the ones above, the Mysore Palace is perhaps the best preserved of the lot. The Mysore Palace, completed in 1912, was designed by British architect, Henry Irwin, and built in the IndoSaracenic style. It is the seat of the Wodeyar dynasty of Mysore. During the spectacular 10day Dussehra festival in September/October, the palace and the city come vibrantly alive. Pick up an audio-guide and saunter through the various rooms with their exhibits. Absorb the grandeur of the Courtyard, the Private Audience Room, the Public Durbar Hall and the Marriage Hall. On weekends and festival days, the Mysore Palace is illuminated in the evenings. Do drop in at the Jaganmohana Palace and Art Gallery also in Mysore, whose structure predates the Maharaja's Palace. It now houses a wonderful collection of exhibits collected by the Mysore royal family including art by Raja Ravi Varma and Svetoslav Roerich.

culturama | april 2012

City Palace, Udaipur

culturama | april 2012

Look who is in town

Delhi

Megumi Urakami Bolger Homemaker

My India, My Country

japan

Both India and Japan are countries with a long history. However, Japan is a homogeneous nation, whereas India is not. We donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t need to express ourselves much to each other, as for us, silence is beautiful and customers are gods, while people in India are very articulate and straightforward.

My Favourite Indian

Although I do not know many famous Indians, there was one whom I admired. His name is Suraj and he was a former colleague of mine. I was impressed by his hard work and he was very responsible and understanding.

My Indian Cuisine

Murg makhani (butter chicken) is always a treat, even for my three-year-old daughter. I also enjoy saag gosht (spinach mutton curry). Right now, I am impressed by an Indian herbal juice, made from Brahmi, which is supposed to make you sharper!

My India Insight

I like the friendly nature of Indians. Also, I love taking part in Indian cultural celebrations like Diwali, Holi, etc. But I do not understand why people feed their children while they are playing in public parks. And I am yet to get used to the idea of roadside vendors on sidewalks.

My Tip to India

The Japanese are rather shy and humble; it may take time to get along, but once it happens, we can become really good friends. Also, many Japanese love to drink, which changes our personality from shy and humble to really talkative and friendly (like Indians!). So, a sure way to get along with the Japanese is to have dinner with cocktails!.

culturama | april 2012

Look who is in town

mumbai

Robert Stephens Architect

My India, My Country

What strikes me is the concept of community, and just how extensive the implications of community are. In my native country, the extent of one's community is generally immediate family members, maybe including a few cousins as well, who fill the fringes of familial gatherings (but maybe this is just my family!). However, I have observed that the extent of one's community in India often moves far beyond immediate blood relations, and the dedication and commitment towards this very extended family is admirable.

My Favourite Indian

Ihavetwo: Civichospitaldoctorsandnurses, and unskilled migrant labourers. Although highly underpaid and underappreciated, these two groups of individuals keep India moving forward.

My Indian Cuisine

No question: Dal Masoor (black dal). Simple yet sophisticated.

My India Insight

usa

I love the depth of the past which lives in India. I find it inspiring when people enrich that which they are doing in the present in light of something they learned from the past. I do not love the â&#x20AC;&#x153;Chalta Haiâ&#x20AC;? attitude, or the mindset that mediocrity is acceptable. Although I often fail, I try and change it by raising the standard in my own life, and then allowing that to speak into the lives of those around me.

My Tip to India

It is most important to remember that we are not all the same, and the stereotypes that define some of us do not certainly define all. It is imperative to ask questions to get to know someone, rather than rely on assumptions. This is also something I have learned in my own interactions with others!

culturama | april 2012

Look who is in town

bengaluru

Heidi Wald Byerly Finance Manager, LSI India Research & Development

usa My India, My Country

The biggest difference for me so far is the perception of time. For us Americans, time is more like a tool – it is something that we strive to manage and use. But in India, it is more like an entity, a force that flows around you.

My Favorite Indian

Mira Nair, the film director. The highlight of her films is that they serve to bridge the gap between the Eastern and Western sensibilities. Also, I admire her charitable work with Salaam Baalak and Maisha.

My Indian Cuisine

Generally, I am fond of most Indian dishes. The only glitch is that, the South Indian cuisine is very spicy. But I have discovered a magic potion – after all the spice you eat, take a little yoghurt. You will be as right as rain!

My India Insight

One thing that is hard to miss is that people here are just as warm as this weather. They are very friendly. Everyone is willing to help, but I do wish that they do not give wrong directions in their enthusiasm to help!

My Tip to India

People from the United States are friendly but direct. For us, it is a sign of respect to say precisely what we mean, even if the news is unpleasant. This doesn’t mean that we think less of you. In fact, we only tell the 'whole truth' to those that we really like and trust..

culturama | april 2012

Chennai

Photo Zippora Madhukar Photograhy

Look who is in town

Stefania Scardigi Teacher and translator

italy

My India, My Country

Every time I see South Indians, I am strongly reminded of Southern Italians. The most important similarity is that, Italians, as well as Indians, are very warm and friendly people. They are always ready to help you. Also, they are open to new people, their cultures and views.

My Favourite Indian

I would say that I am impressed by my driver. He is always prompt, on time and thoughtful. He is reliable and for now, he is my favourite Indian!

My Indian Cuisine

My favourite dish is Chicken 65! I would love to learn the recipe and make it myself, one day. But what I am most curious about is; where does the name Chicken 65 come from?

My India Insight

What I like about Indians is that they are very calm. But there are always two sides to a coin, so being this calm might also lead to procrastination. We also need to consider that there are a lot of times when things have to get done immediately and if you are slow, it will result in delays.

My Tip to India

I know that Indians, as a rule, use only their right hand to eat. But back in Italy, we show no such favouritism towards the right or the left. So, please donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get offended if we extend our left hand to eat or reach out to something!

culturama | april 2012

kerala

break for high tea

Culturama@globaladjustments.com

milesworth holidays india • srilanka • maldives • and beyond

visit: www.milesworth.com Milesworth Travels & Tours Pvt. Ltd., 39 R M Towers, 108 Chamiers Road, Chennai. Tel: +91-44-24320522 / 24359554 Fax: +91-44-24342668 E-mail: holidays@milesworth.com culturama | april 2012

Advertiser's Feature

Roll your way to become an

Itamae Vivanta by Taj – Connemara celebrates Hip Asia’s 8th anniversary through the month of April by introducing a new Japanese specialty Chef and the art of Sushi Rolling Hip Asia, the pan-Asian restaurant at Vivanta by Taj - Connemara, Chennai is known for its varied dining experiences. The finest ingredients and the most authentic recipes come together over here, giving way to the real tastes of Asia. Adding a twist to your meal, Hip Asia celebrates its anniversary through April, introducing a Japanese specialty chef, Chef Juancho Miday, who will host a sushi making session… A chance for you to become an Itamea (Chef)! Chef Juancho will work his magic at the Teppen counter and give you a Sushi rolling experience. Dine in a group of 8-10 and learn the art of rolling different kinds of sushi! This session will be followed by a three-course Japanese meal at the Teppenyaki counter, where Chef will showcase his talent of juggling and creating musical beats with his cutlery, dishing out some of the best recipes for you. Everything you need to know about Sushis The Chef will talk about sushi, its origin and the kinds available today.

“Sushi is a Japanese dish made of vinegared rice and ingredients like seafood or vegetables. It can be made in different ways, each with a distinctive characteristic. Visual appeal and the taste make this dish so popular ,” says Juancho. Some of the sushi you would roll are nigirizushi (a topping of raw or cooked fish is placed on a finger of vinegared rice smeared with wasabi paste), makizushi (a filling of fish or vegetables is enclosed by vinegared rice, and wrapped in toasted nori seaweed), gunkanmaki (a finger of vinegared rice is surrounded by a strip of nori, with toppings) and temakizushi (sushi rice is spread on a square of nori, fillings placed on top, and the whole thing rolled into a cone shape). “Temakizushi is a popular choice for dinner parties, as guests can make their own,” adds Juancho.

From: April 2012 Price: Rs 2000 nett (inclusive of taxes and a three-course meal for a minimum of 5 people) For reservations call 044-66000000

culturama | april 2012

About Chef Juancho Miday Chef Juancho Miday specialises in Sushi, Sashimi and the flamboyant Teppanyaki cuisine. Hailing from Philippines, his wit, flair and expert juggling skills have made him popular with the guests across the world. Chef has worked in different hotels across Asia and the Middle East before coming to India. So, come join us in this edge-of-the-plate celebration at Hip Asia and take back the perfect souvenir – sushi rolling skills!

culturama | april 2012

CALENDAR DELHI THEATRE & MUSIC

Family Jewels April 1, 1930h A one–hour, one–man show, Rasik Chopra entertains the audience with amusing and embarrassing stories from his life. Indian Habitat Center, IHC Complex, Lodhi Road, Lodhi Colony, New Delhi Tel: 011-24682001

* Event details are correct at the time of printing. However, we encourage readers to call and reconfirm at the venues concerned. Numbers beside each event indicate the date. Events are divided into categories like film, music, etc. Addresses and phone numbers of venues and places mentioned are listed under Venues.

Solo Exhibition April 1 to 7, 1000h to 1900h 'Zero Tolerance' solo exhibition by Zakkir Hussain, and 'Extra Ordinary' solo exhibition by Hema Upadhyay on display. Vadehra Art Gallery, D-53 Defence Colony, New Delhi Tel: 011-46594456 Art Shows April 1 to 14, 1100h to 1900h Art Heritage presents two shows titled “Black & White”, a group show of oils, acrylics, water colours, drawings, graphics, and “Urban Acrylics”, a solo show by Raj More. Art Heritage, Triveni Kala Sangam, 205, Tansen Marg, Mandi House, New Delhi Tel: 011-23718833

aRT & EXHIBITION Born free – Blessing? April 1 to 5, All Day Kajal Nalwa presents oil on canvas with a palette knife, curated by Naresh Kapuria, at the Open Palm Court Gallery. The Indian Habitat Center, IHC Complex, Lodhi Road, Lodhi Colony, New Delhi Tel: 011-24682001

culturama | april 2012

FOOD & SHOPPING Festival of Soups & Salads April 1 to 7, 1300h to 2200h Feast on mouth-watering soups like Mantra Special, Mulligatawny, Roasted Tomato and Spinach and Cream of Mushroom, along with salads like Mantra Amaltas’ special and various others. Mantra Amaltas, Friends Colony West, New Delhi Tel: 011-49664966, 9818928800

The Wizard of Oz April 7, 1930h The Puppet Studio brings alive this classic children’s story about friendship and love. Epicenter, Apparel House, Sector-44, Gurgaon Tel: 0124-2715000 Shankar Ehsaan Loy – Live Concert April 1, 1900h Shankar–Ehsaan–Loy are behind some of the most pulsating and popular hits in Bollywood and are back on stage to perform live for their fans. All their songs are in Hindi with occasional lyrics in English. Siri Fort Auditorium, Asian Games Village, Gautam Nagar, New Delhi Tel: 011-26493370, 2649939

German Springfest 2012 April 14, 1000h to 1900h The German Springfest is a one-day event with loads of shopping, fun and frolic. An exclusive array of interesting lifestyle products, designer home accessories, high-end fashion wear, children's goodies, garden accessories and delectable food items will be on sale. Indo-German Chamber of Commerce, German House, 2, Nyaya Marg, Chanakyapuri, New Delhi Tel: 011-47168888

wORKSHOPs & EVENTs Kindness Udartha April 1 to 5, 1000h The Australian High Commissioner to India and the Australia India Council cordially invite you to this Australia India Cultural Exchange programme at the Visual Art Gallery. The Indian Habitat Center, IHC Complex, Lodhi Road, Lodhi Colony, New Delhi Tel: 011 -24682001 Art of Living April 6, 1830h A workshop on practical knowledge to deal with the daily challenges of life, interactive exercises, Yoga, stretching, and relaxation exercises, meditation and powerful breathing techniques. The Epicenter, Apparel House, Sector-44, Gurgaon Tel: 0124-2715000

Spirit of Italy April 1 to 9, 1900h to 2330h The Royal Plaza is celebrating Spirit of Italy through a kaleidoscope of Italian cuisine – enjoy a tantalising combination of cooked vegetables, fish and sea foods, and chicken and meat with the best of Italian wines. Luteyen's is serving the most authentic repertoire of Crepes, Panini, Pastas, Risottos and more – all this with the choicest drinks and cocktails. The Royal Plaza, 19, Ashoka Road, Connaught Place, New Delhi Tel: 011-43555555

CALENDAR MUMBAI THEATRE & MUSIC

Stand-up Comedy April 14 and 15, 2030h and 2230h Watch Pierre Hollins, Mandy Knight and Rob Deering from the United Kingdom doing what they do best – making you laugh! Pheonix Mill, Lower Parel, Mumbai

Art Muslings, 1, Admirality Building, Colaba Cross Lane, Colaba, Mumbai Tel: 022-22163339/22186071

on creative writing, music, movement and puppetry. NCPA, NCPA Marg, Nariman Point, Mumbai Tel: 022-22824567

Photography Exhibition Pink is the Navy blue of India: Photography Exhibition by Norman Parkinson April 27 to May 05, 1100h to 1900h Titled ‘Pink is the Navy Blue of India’, this exhibition by Norman Parkinson showcases photographs shot all over India after he received a commission from British Vogue. This was in 1950, when post-war Europe showed a lot of interest in its former colonies. Fifty years later, his works are being displayed for the first time in India, by Seagull Arts and Media Resource Centre, and Tasveer. ICIA, ICIA Building, 22/26, K. Dubhash Marg, Kalaghoda, Mumbai Tel: 022-22048138/9

Indian Dance Festival April 26, 1900h Reserve your dates for the fourth Mudra Dance Festival! The line-up includes legendary artistes performing several classical Indian dance forms like Odissi, Bharatnatyam, Kathakali and Chhou. NCPA, NCPA Marg, Nariman Point, Mumbai Tel: 022-66223737

Boy with a Suitcase April 27, 1900h A moving and funny story of a boy who leaves his war-torn country to London where his sister stays, this play seamlessly blends two cultures with Indian and German actors. Experimental Theatre, NCPA, Nariman Point, Mumbai Tel: 022-66223737 Kodaly Quartet April 20 and 21, 1900h Continuing the Beethoven string quartet cycle, The Kodaly Quartet returns to the NCPA for this month’s Chamber Music Concert. Experimental Theatre, NCPA Marg, Nariman Point, Mumbai Tel: 022-66223737

aRT & EXHIBITION Mumbai in the Eyes of Khalid April 9 to 11, 1100h to 1900h At 13, Khalid left his village to work in the city of Mumbai. He had a hard life there and learnt block printing. Slowly, he also learnt to sketch with the guidance of Dr. Ismail. This is an exhibition of Khalid’s Mumbai. Artisans Gallery, 56, Dr. V.B. Gandhi Marg, Behind Rhythm House, Kalaghoda, Mumbai

wORKSHOPs & EVENTs Expressing through the Body April 14 to 19, 1400h to 1700h Get ready to explore how your unique body sense affects your understanding of the world. Learn all about physical self-expression through abstract theater, stylised gesture, free-association movement, breath-work, meditation and dance. Prithvi Theatre, 20, Janki Kutir, Juhu Church Road, Mumbai Tel: 022-2614 9546

FOOD & SHOPPING Sizzler Special April 1 to 25, 1900h to 2330h Indulge in delicious sizzlers like the Mexican Beef Sizzler, Chicken Santa Fe, Indiana Jones, Steak Royal and many more! Café Royal, 166, Opp. Regal Cinema, Colaba, Mumbai Tel: 022-22883984/22883982 Fishetarians April 1 to May 11, 1900h to 2330h Experience a new catch very Friday, starring Goan Gagalicious, Bengali Bounty, Malvani Magnificence, and Malbari Magic! The Lalit, Airport Road, Vile Parle, Mumbai Tel: 022-66992222 Sea Food Brunch April 1 to 28, 1400h to 1530h and 1730h to 0000h Sample a taste of Konkan food, Manglorean Seafood and Mughlai food every Sunday for lunch. Hotel Ankur, M.P. Shetty Marg, Fort, Mumbai Tel: 022-22654194/22630393

NCPA’s Summer Fiesta April 2 to May 31 The NCPA Summer Fiesta for children is back again – this time with 20 workshops and 7 plays. From dance workshops to theatre workshops, to sessions

Monochrome Till April 15, 1100h to 1900h The series of paintings by Nandan Purkayastha is based on the ancient custom of Durga Puja. The series takes one through the entire process from creation, devotion, celebration to immersion.

culturama | april 2012

CALENDAR BENGALURU THEATRE & MUSIC

wORKSHOPs & EVENTs Craft Boom April 1 to 17, 1000h to 1300h & 1500h to 1800h Learn paper quilling, international paper crafts, floral punch craft, calligraphy and many more creative activities for children and adults. R K Apartments, Block 1, GF, Ramamurthy Nagar, Hoysala Nagar, TC Paliya Main Road, Bengaluru Tel: 9739551652

Big B April 14, 1930h Based on a Hindi short story, this full-length play is one-of-a-kind, the first ever to be presented in ‘broken English’. A comedy that the makers promise will be “Hillaryious”! Chowdaiah Memorial Hall, Vyalikaval, Malleshwaram, Bengaluru Tel: 080-23445810 Opera in the Round April 13 and 14, 2000h Echo Opera dedicates itself to the traditional opera repertoire, presenting masterpieces we all know and love, but always approaching them with fresh vision and panache. Moevenpick Hotel & Spa, 115, Pipeline Road, Gokula Extension, HMT, Bengaluru Tel: 080-43001000

aRT & EXHIBITION Tamed Elements - By Deepak Rajbhar. Till April 14, 1100h Every stroke in the paintings of Deepak is a metaphor of the actual move of elements and the pictures are abstract representations of the resultant environments they bring about in the earth and the skies.They are an image of the different states of the earth in different environments.Deepak's work brings about an awareness of what normally escapes observation and consideration. His work compels the viewer to ponder and decipher the abstract element of the elements. 10/6, Lavelle Road Lavelle Road Bangaluru Tel: 22115718

culturama | april 2012

IFSEC South India April 1 to 30, All Day An international exhibition that deals with fire safety and security, this event will host a large number of exhibitors and visitors from different sectors such as Computer Security, Integrated Systems and Networked Security, IT Security, Physical Security, etc Palace Grounds, Jayamahal Road, Bengaluru Tel: 080-65960362 / 23611322 Summer Express 2012 April 9 to 30, All Day Ranga Shankara's signature summer workshop programme for children is all set to host 16 workshops for children aged 7 to 17 years, by 14 of India's well-known arts practitioners. Ranga Shankara, 36/2 8th Cross II Phase J P Nagar, J.P Nagar, Bengaluru Tel: 26592777, 26493982 Effective Business Communication Skills April 19, 0930h to 1730h One of the key requirements to become a successful leader and business manager is the ability to communicate, which is what this workshop is all about. Apart from providing visibility in an organization, effective communication skills serve to help influence an audience and are critical to the decision-making process. The Chancery, 10/6, Lavelle Road, Lavelle Road, Bengaluru Tel: 080-2276767, 9845022767 Times Education Boutique 2012 April 28 and 29, All Day Times Education Boutique has successfully interacted with thousands of students in major locations in the country to bring them closer to your organization for more than a decade. Palace Grounds, Jayamahal Road, Bengaluru Tel: 080-65960362/ 23611322

World Dance Day April 29, 1000h to 2200h In association with The Bangalore School of Music, the Alliance Francaise de Bangalore is proud to host a day full of dance activities, dance films, performances and the first-ever exhibition of the Mohan Khokar Dance Collection. Alliance Francaise de Bangalore, No. 108, Thimmaiah Road, Vasanthnagar, Bengaluru Tel: 9844743120

FOOD & SHOPPING

Sutra April 1 to 30, All Day Set in Lalit Ashok, Sutra has a lot to offer for the nightlife enthusiast. Featuring an open-air and an inside lounge, a long bar serving all types of cocktails and DJ Sean spinning alongside resident DJ Navin, the styling and ambience is great and unlike any club you've ever seen in Bengaluru. Lalit Ashok Kumara Krupa, High Grounds, Hotel Ashoka, Bengaluru Tel: 080-30527777 F Bar & Kitchen April 1 to 30, All Day F Bar & Kitchen is a classy bar and restaurant. The venue is known for its stylish décor, scrumptious food and gripping music. The restaurant serves Lebanese and Mediterranean cuisine and has a DJ playing some electrifying music. 18, Ali Askar Road, Cunningham Road, Bengaluru Tel: 9900045800 New Range of Flower Teas at Infinitea April 1 to 15, All Day This restaurant offers the finest quality of Darjeeling Teas that are characteristically grown during the season. Enter the spacious split-level environs and you will learn all you never knew about tea. 2 Shah Sultan Complex, Cunningham Road, Bengaluru Tel: 080-41148810/8428

culturama | april 2012

CALENDAR CHENNAI THEATRE & MUSIC

Evam's Standup Tamasha – This event is over Till April 29, 20 00 hrs Stories of urban dilemmas with a comic twist. The tales range from first time USA visit to anguish of VISA rejects, From Nepali Gurkhas to Coimbatore culture shocks, Finding apartments, Film shoots and Flimsy food, South Indian Arranged Marriages Syndrome and Pets that were Set to Take over the World ? this show promises to provide enough food for thought and more. Come, meet some very interesting people and watch them narrate their urban stories, thoughts, theories and peeves! Star Rock Kodambakkam High Road Nungambakkam Chennai Ph: 044 40509999 Benny Dayal live in Chennai April 21, 1900h SAGA Charitable Trust is an NGO committed to 'Training Lives to Save Lives’, which focuses on training non-medical persons on life saving skills. To support SAGA in this cause and raise funds for the same, a musical extravaganza has been organised, with popular singer, Benny Dayal. Several of Benny’s hit numbers have been composed by Oscarwinner, A R Rahman. Contact Raji at 9003072685 for ticket details. The Music Academy, New No. 168 (Old No. 306), T.T.K. Road, Chennai

aRT & EXHIBITION Screen & Textile Printing Expo April 20 to 22 Acclaimed as one of the exclusive exhibitions showcasing screen, textile and digital printing equipment, machinery, this event will feature products like drying equipment, adhesives, stencil development equipment, pad printing equipment, and more. No. 6a, 6b and 6c, Mount Poonamallee Road, Nandambakkam, Chennai Tel: 044-22315551, 22316033

culturama | april 2012

Indian Summer April 6 and 7, 1000h to 1900h The popular Vimonisha Private Collection brings yet another first to the city of Chennai – the Indian Summer collection, featuring the season’s best fashion wear, jewellery and accessories. Established, successful and popular designers have been especially chosen to showcase and exhibit their creations at this exhibition. Hotel Chola Sheraton, No. 10 Cathedral Road, Chennai To Let the World In April 1 to 10, 1100h to 2000h A major exhibition featuring the works of 25–30 contemporary Indian artists that seeks to understand modes of world-making and narratives in contemporary art. Lalith Kala Academy, No 4, Greams Road, Chennai Tel: 044-42696650, 9841485979

Coffee Morning 17th April 1000h to 1200h Celebrating Festivals of India- Baisakhi & Tamil New Year India Immersion Centre, No 5, III main road, RA Puram, Chennai Tel: 24617902 Taste of India 5th April & 23rd April, 1000h to 1300h & 1700h to 1900h A journey through the heart of India engaging all five senses leaving you with a sixth sense of wonder. India Immersion Centre, No 5, III main road, RA Puram, Chennai Tel: 24617902

FOOD & SHOPPING Jodhpur Food Festival April 1 to 30, 1900h Onwards ‘Olives’ in Deccan Plaza is hosting the Jodhpur Food Festival this month that celebrates the delicacies of Jodhpur for lunch and dinner every Saturday and Sunday, and only dinners on weekdays. Deccan Plaza, 36, Royapettah High Road, Chennai Tel: 044-66773333, 9500065623

wORKSHOPs & EVENTs Art Workshop April 20, 1400h to 1600h Learn to draw, sketch and paint portraits, landscapes, figure drawings, fruits, flowers, birds, animals, apart from charcoal painting, pencil shading, colour pencil shading, oil and plastic crayons. For details, contact Jashu Javeri at 9940658696. Block J -9 Anna Nagar East (Near K4 Police Station) 6th Avenue, Chennai First Rush April 28 and 29, 1000h Evam's fun theatre workshop is back! Learn the fine art of acting and putting up a theatrical performance over a two day intensive course, followed by a month long, one-hour-a-day rehearsal session that concludes with you getting on stage for your first ever performance. Vidyasagar, 1, Ranjith Road, Kotturpuram Tel: 9840612333

Vishu Sadya April 12 to 15, All Day Ente Keralam which specialises in authentic Kerala cuisine celebrates Vishu, the Malayalam New Year, with an elaborate Sadhya or feast of traditional recipes and authentic ingredients. Ente Keralam, No. 1, Kasturi Estate, 1st Street, Poes Garden, Alwarpet, Chennai Tel: 044-42328585, 32216591 Silver Fest April 1 to 30, 1000h to 1900h Beautifully embellished earrings, bangles, neck pieces and more, Shilpi’s Silver Fest is back again! Shilpi, 29, C.P.Ramaswamy Road, Alwarpet, Chennai Tel: 044-24997526

culturama | april 2012

A new year

a new Beginning THERE is a lot of festivity in the air and it’s certainly not for the new financial year! Across the country, families gather around to usher in the New Year, whether it is Baisakhi in Punjab, Vishu in Kerala (more about these festivals on page 68) or Tamil Puthandu in Tamil Nadu. The Hindu New Year commences on the first day of the month called Chaitra, usually the 13th or 14th of April. The occasion is said to be an auspicious one because at this time the sun enters the Aries sign of the zodiac. In Tamil Nadu, people rise early to view the kanni (auspicious sight) at dawn in the expectation that beginning the New Year by looking at favourable things will bring good fortune throughout the year. These auspicious things include gold and silver disks, betel leaves, nuts, fruits and vegetables, flowers, raw rice and coconuts. The entrance of the home is decorated with kolam (geometric patterns drawn with rice flour) and doorways are adorned with mango leaves to mark the occasion. After an early bath, the whole family prays together, following which the children take the blessings of their parents. Ganesha, the elephant-headed god, is offered fruits, sweets and flowers, and visiting the temple is a must. Each family begins their celebrations with the lighting of the kuthuvilakku (traditional lamp), which is placed next to the niraikudum (a brass bowl-like container with a short neck, filled to the brim with water and decorated with leaves of the mango tree). After prayer, elders give gifts of money to all the members of the family. The day is spent visiting relatives, friends and exchanging greetings. It is a time for celebrating new and prosperous beginnings. There are many legends behind the celebrations. It is said that the Chaitra Vishu, or the opening day of the first fortnight of the waxing moon, was the occasion chosen by Brahma to create this world. This festive day is said to have acquired further importance by the fact that Sri Rama, the hero of the epic Ramayana, had his triumphal entry into Ayodhya after the destruction of the rakshasas (demons) at this time. The excitement actually begins about two weeks before the New Year. Families go shopping for new clothes. Homes are thoroughly cleaned and even repainted. Mothers and grandmothers make sweets and snacks to give relatives and friends when they make their visits. The food prepared for the festival is very special, with particular emphasis on pulses and cereals. Schools are closed and many children fondly remember New Year as the time when their elders present them money as a token of prosperity. Reach out to your Tamilian friends and wish them “Puthandu Vazthukal!” (pronounced poothan doo varu-thekal). It will be seen as a nice gesture. Able Adminstrator and India’s cultural Amabassador, one of only 2 Women as Chief Minister, Tamil Nadu’s Dr. J Jayalalithaa is bringing back this tradition with fervour and enriching the experience for all in her State through celebrations on April 13. Translated in Tamil alongside – enjoy the script 44

culturama | april 2012

Bursting the bubble Ia n W a t k i n s o n

priced Possessions Shopping on Indian streets can be daunting, if you don’t hold the power of bargaining in your hands, as Culturama’s columnist discovers

AS INDIA opens up to trade and global outlets become household names in every city, the notion of ‘fixed price’ is spreading – the way we trade in the West. So for Westerners shopping in one of the new malls in India, the fixed price tag and bar code attached to the merchandise creates shopping environs we are familiar with – like being in a Wal-Mart with dosas rather than doughnuts. If we need assistance we ask for it, else we are left to browse. Indians, of course, also like shopping in such environments, as they are less demanding, more relaxing. But once we leave these anodyne ‘global village’ stores, hit the coloured, noisy streets and lose ourselves in the throng of the bazaars, we are faced with a different style of trading; one that has existed worldwide, before the advent of metal coins as ‘proxy’ merchandise and the notion of a fixed printed price tag in global retailers was conceived. Negotiating and bargaining face to face, a place where our ‘fixed price’ protocols have no say. In the streams of people interacting in bazaars, money exchanges and price are ever fluctuating items, and an unseen network of supply and demand is working behind the scenes. And pretty much all, except for food and fruit, are negotiable – for foreigners and Indians. In the bazaar scenario, many foreigners harbour the misconception that they are easily ‘cheatable’ while Indians are not.

culturama | april 2012

Sure, if a group of wealthy Westerners wandered into a street bazaar swinging $2000 cameras from one shoulder and Gucci leather handbags from the other, peering from behind Ray-Ban sunglasses, then they are going to flag up the idea of wealth. But so it is with Indians, who carry the same badges of prosperity. It’s like having a big, flashing neon sign on your head that says ‘Look, I have money’. There are rogues, pickpockets and hustlers here, of course, but so too in London, L.A, Paris and every other city in the world. No more, no less. Walking around looking like a Big Illuminated Dollar Bill is not a clever idea in any city, whether you are from India or Indiana – unless you are encapsulated in Wal-Mart-world. In the West, we have forgotten how to bargain – people negotiating to buy a used car usually fail miserably and fall at the first fence when trying to get a good price from a seasoned salesman. So once we arrive in the rest of the world that still DOES bargain, we feel a little like a small boat in a big sea without a paddle. But we have to find our way around it – it’s how things work. Often bargaining can become a time consuming exercise, especially when buying quality items. Kashmiri business people are exceptionally good at long drawn out negotiated deals – in Srinagar decades ago, I was advised by a scrupulously honest, yet ruthlessly determined silk carpet seller to ‘First make love, then make business’, as the first silver tray of Kahwah (green tea and spice) was ceremoniously offered at the beginning of discussions. It’s a game to be played, it’s played from Morocco to Hong Kong and back again, and if you don’t play it, the lack of compliance and involvement is viewed as rather eccentric – you are expected to. Once you are in the game and a deep layer of unfurled carpets or silks or bronzes bury you with a swirling variety of beautiful designs and workmanship, and the third or fourth tray of fine tea has been served, it is often hard to leave without opening your wallet and making a purchase, even just to escape. Therein lies the

true skill of the game – if you don’t want to buy, don’t buy. And if you DO want to buy an item you really like, don’t zone in on it immediately, ignore it and browse other things first. It’s another part of the game. If you are buying a painting in Udaipur, a carving in Mahabalipuram, or a piece of handloom silk in Kolkata – look at the work and consider how long it took to create, the skill involved, and how much it is worth to you. Consider what you would expect to be paid for creating it, if indeed you could. Buying several superb ‘Pattachitra’ paintings from an artist in Raghurajpur in Orissa involved hours sitting on his floor watching him work, drinking tea, and bartering. When the deal was finalised, he was very happy and I paid him the negotiated agreed amount, and then later gave him the balance to the amount he had originally asked for. He was an artist, his work stunning and I respected his skill and effort. But the protocols were adhered to, the game had still been played. And, trust me, you will never find them in any Wal-Mart..

The writer is British and has been living in India for the past two years. culturama | april 2012

cause and effect Sar i t h a R a o

A Heritage to Remember A tradition revived, a heritage preserved, Culturama takes a look at The M. Rm. Rm. Cultural Foundation

THE Chettinad region in Tamil Nadu is considered the hometown of the Chettiar community, renowned for its business acumen and historical trade links across South East Asia. It is here that the seeds of a cultural revival have been sown by Visalakshi Ramaswamy and her M. Rm. Rm. Cultural Foundation. When Visalakshi Ramaswamy set out to co-author a book called ‘The Chettiar Heritage’ along with S. Muthiah and Meenakshi Meyappan, she found that the very heritage they were trying to document and photograph, was disappearing at a shocking rate. And so, in the year 2000, Visalakshi Ramaswamy began the M. Rm. Rm. Cultural Foundation to ensure that craftspersons from the Chettinad region were provided a steady income, hoping that this would, in turn, infuse new life into those languishing traditions. The Foundation hopes to preserve the past by extensively documenting these traditions and hopes to also create future demand by roping in professionals and design students to contemporise the colours and design of the products. In order to be a self-sustaining venture, the Foundation began work with the Kandanghi saree. The Kandanghi was traditionally woven as a thick drape, to be worn without a blouse or a petticoat, and pleated at the back. The Foundation sourced old sarees from friends and family and then began the

culturama | april 2012

process of creating a design directory. It worked closely with weavers, even putting them on a payroll, to produce a more urban version, considerably lighter, and lending itself well to the contemporary saree-wearing style. There is even a Kandanghi saree variety with a cotton body and a rich silk border, making it a comfortable alternative to silk sarees. The Foundation is now reviving the Kottan palm leaf baskets, traditionally used for ritualistic purposes, and now repositioned as elegant gift boxes for weddings and festivals. It coordinates with one local leader and about five groups of basket weavers. Every finished basket has a tag with the weaver's name on it, to ensure accountability and maintain quality. Today, at least 100 of the 150 families that are into Kottan basketry earn about Rs. 5000 a month. Visalakshi Ramaswamy believes that marketing these products is not as much a challenge as ensuring craftspersons receive enough orders month on month to sustain their families and provide for their children’s education. She hopes that through the Foundation, craftspersons will also gain the respect they truly deserve for their skills. The products created by the M. Rm. Rm. Foundation are retailed through its store in Chennai, ‘Manjal’ (in Chennai), named after the auspicious turmeric root.

Office

Yoga

OPEN CHEST

STRETCH

Women

woes

Dr. Uma Nambiar, Chief Executive Officer, Global Health City - Chennai

Sit near the edge of the chair. Hold the sides of the seat.. Gently stretch up and forward. Open your chest and tilt your head back. Relax and breathe into the stretch.

Courtesy: Darrin Zeer “America’s relaxation expert!” –CNN www.HappyYoga.ME

Women usually take responsibility for the healthcare of the entire family; but somewhere in the scene they forget about themselves. Ironic but true. For women who are not working, their health is usually ignored till an emergency comes up. Whereas, working women get so busy juggling home and careers that they give very little attention to their health, till problems escalate significantly. Most often when we talk of diseases of or in women, people tend to be very restrictive in their thought and consider only the reproductive health of women, implying thereby, the diseases that affect the uterus, cervix, vagina, fallopian tubes, and breasts - whether be it related to infection or growths or other conditions affecting these organs. Healthcare for women extends beyond mere reproductive health and is also inclusive of the health of the girl child and adolescents. It is important to note that most of the common killers of women are preventable. In following issues of Culturama we will be looking at some of the conditions that affect women. Next month we will be writing about the effects of smoking, since May 31st WHO celebrates World No Tobacco Day. Later on we will be talking about osteoporosis, diabetes, heart disease, strokes and polycystic ovarian diseases. Be a smart woman and remember that taking care of your body today will ensure that you live better tomorrow.

culturama | april 2012

india and I M ar i n a M ara n g o s

tHE sILENT VALLEY Rediscovering the magic of Kashmir through the sandbags and barricades WHEN the weather is hot and sticky in Delhi, we all look for escapes. A lot of us go back to our home countries to catch up with family and friends. Some of us look closer to the cities in which we live. And so, last summer, I headed out to Jammu and Kashmir. The state sits on the top of India, like an unfolding flower with each petal falling into a different country. When I visited and saw its immense beauty and charm, I could understand why everyone wants to claim it as their own. (Its history has been marred by conflict and protracted talks between India, Pakistan and China.) Its volatile history is one of the reasons foreigners are reluctant to go there, which, for me, is the saddest part of Jammu and Kashmir. I went because I was curious to see how much it had changed. I had visited in 1980, which seems like such a long time ago, but I was pleasantly surprised to see that it was still just as beautiful and just as friendly and charming as I remember it all those years ago. Even though the army is highly visible, I felt I could see through the sandbags and the barricades (the state has been calm for a fair while now) to enjoy its tranquillity and breathtaking scenery.

culturama | april 2012

No trip to Kashmir would be complete without a stay in a houseboat. The story goes that this tradition of houseboats was the result of the Maharaja Ranbir Singh’s reluctance to allow anyone to own land and the increasing desire of Britishers to spend time in this cool paradise. Doonga boats were introduced to house them and they eventually led to the elaborate and plush houseboats that you can now find on Nageen and Dal Lakes, which are almost exclusively used by tourists. They come complete with wood carved ceilings and ornate balconies facing the lake, electricity, Kashmiri carpets and flush toilets and a cook who prepares and serves aromatic Kashmiri food. In my case, I probably shared a bed (not at the same time!) with the Clintons and a number of other distinguished guests. Dal Lake is surrounded by stunning mountains, their reflections adding an ethereal aura, especially at sunrise and sunset. Reclining on comfortable cushions, our shikara-man (shikaras are small wooden boats), who was as old as the hills but bright eyed and charming, took us to the flower and vegetable markets and swished us in and out of the blooming lotus flowers and marigolds. We explored the inner canals to see the hanging vegetable gardens and to bird watch. On land, there were so many beautiful gardens to visit, thoughtfully created all those years ago for special begums and royals to while away the summer days. They are all open to the public Chashma Shahi (the royal fountains); Pari Mahal (the palace of the fairies); Nishat Bagh (the garden of spring); Shalimar Bag, Naseem Bagh, and the Tulip Gardens recently opened by Sonia Gandhi. A couple of miles away from Srinagar, the capital of Kashmir, is Gulmarg, a skiing and mountain resort. When we were there at the height of summer, it was full of horses and picnickers ambling along verdant mountains. There were so many beautiful treks that we did on a daily basis. We went horse-back riding over the longer distances, stopping at waterfalls and rivers and meadows full of wild flowers. In the evening, we ate the most delicious Kashmiri food – curries cooked with yoghurt and cream and we drank aromatic Kashmiri tea with cloves, rose petals and almond slithers.

The people are probably one of the handsomest people I have seen; a mixture of their Persian and tribal roots with enchanting green eyes, angular faces and great smiles they are genuinely welcoming; they want to see more foreigners visiting their state and rightly deserve to be supported in their efforts to get it back on the tourist map again.. Their welcome was something that really stood out for me. Nowhere else had I encountered a warmth and kindness as I experienced here. The passage of time has done nothing to diminish this. I felt it then and was so happy to see and feel it all over again now. I am already planning my next trip this time in the autumn to catch the autumn colours of the chinar trees that I am told is spectacular.

AIKYA 2012

Soul Symphony

THE heart of a miracle lies in the first cry of a newborn, the first note that defines a beginning. Often, as we hold on to that miracle, we forget to listen to the inconspicuous snip of that humble pair of scissors that severs the umbilical cord. For with it comes the essence of what this existence is all about – we are born free, literally, with no strings attached. And the relationships we make through our lives, that inadvertently become metaphorical strings, are simply tools of liberation. Every aspect of Aikya 2012, a musical journey for a cause, reflected this theme – from the cadence of Jayashri’s music, to the backdrop that showed unexplored depths of life, the puppets that reflected our perspectives of relationships, the rainbow colours of the artistes’ costumes that portrayed the multiple facets of life and the souvenir titled, ‘Indian Connections’, released by Dr. M Rajaram, IAS, Secretary, Department of Tamil Development, Religious Endowments and Information, Government of Tamil Nadu. If Aikya 2010 took you on a magical journey through India with Padmashri Aruna Sairam, and Aikya 2011, showcases the contrasting world of duality with Sudha Raghunathan and TM

culturama | January april 2012 2012

Krishna, then Aikya 2012, inaugurated by His Highness Maharaj Gaj Singh II of Jodhpur, brought together a fusion of different styles of Indian classical music. Through the expression of Jayashri’s music and the interpretation of that music in her own life, accompanied by a group of her students and renowned classical musicians, she acknowledged the Aikya or Oneness of the world, showing us that the only lasting relationship is with ourselves and the divinity within us. Perhaps, it was HH Maharaj Gaj Singh II of Jodhpur, who summed it up best: “I enjoyed it immensely. A programme like this is possible only in India, where there is a wealth of talent and so many artistes. Aikya was wonderfully presented, and I did not expect that it would be such an extravaganza. Every aspect of it was wonderfully done – the presentation, stage, lighting, sound. It was spectacular to see how each artiste, with unique talent could coordinate with each other and unite for the sake of a cause.” We thank our chief sponsors, Radiance, TTDC, Michelin, Grundfos; media partner, The Hindu; and radio partner, Radiomirchi, and every individual who made this event a success once again.

Catch a glimpse of Aikya 2012 on

tALES OF iNDIA Va s a n t i Sa n kara n ara y a n a n

The Rupee Tree The roots of true labour run deep, as this king learns the hard way in this old Indian folk-tale IN A small town in Maharashtra in Western India, there lived a poor Brahmin. One day, he went to the king to beg for alms. The king offered him a hundred rupees. But the Brahmin refused to take the money, saying, “I do not want one hundred rupees. Just give me anything, even one paisa, which you have earned on your own.” The king was very perplexed. What could he give the Brahmin that he had earned out of his own labour? He, a king, did not have what a beggar requested for. So he asked the Brahmin to come after two days. The next day, the king got up early and discarding his royal robes, put on an old, torn garment. He then went to a nearby village and came across a foreman with some labourers. He said, “Good Sir, can you give me some work?” The foreman asked, “What work can you do? Can you dig earth?” Without thinking much the king replied, “Yes, I can dig earth.” The king thought if all these workers, who did not have any education or training could do it, why couldn’t he? “All right, take this shovel and dig a pit and bring some earth to mend the road.” The king picked up the shovel and began to dig. As he was not used to doing any hard labour, in no time he began to perspire profusely. Very soon, he was unable to even hold the shovel because his palms had become sore. The foreman saw his plight and went up to him. “Look here, I can make out that you are not used to digging.” He threw a 25 paise coin towards him and said, “Take this and go away.” The king picked up the coin and went away. The next day, he appeared

in the court in all his regalia. He had the 25 paise coin safely in the pocket of his royal garments. The Brahmin came promptly on that day. He repeated his request for alms. The king was ready this time. He took out the 25 paise coin proudly from his pocket and gave it to the Brahmin, saying, “This I have really earned with the sweat of my brow.” The Brahmin thanked the king and blessed him. On reaching his home, he planted the coin in a bed of tulsi (basil) plants near the well in his backyard. Soon the coin sprouted and grew into a big tree. The tree was laden with rupee coins. One day, the king’s men, who were roaming around collecting flowers for the royal prayers, saw the rupee tree. They were amazed at the sight and promptly went and reported it to the king. The king was astonished! This man, who came begging for alms only the other day, had a rupee tree in his backyard? He ordered his army to uproot the tree and bring it to him. But the Brahmin would not let the king’s men go near the tree or touch it. He said, “Let the king himself come and take away the tree if he wants it.” When the king came to uproot the tree, the Brahmin asked him, “Oh, King! Do you remember what you had given me? Just a 25 paise coin. But, because you had earned it with the sweat of your brow, it has grown into a big tree. So the tree is yours. If you wish, you can take away whatever you gave me.” The king immediately recalled the whole incident and was astonished to see that an act of labour could yield so much fruit. Humbled, he asked the Brahmin’s forgiveness and went away. .

culturama | april 2012

News & Happenings A summary of cross-cultural events held at the India Immersion Centre in February and March, 2012

Brave Heart

What makes a woman outstanding? If you meet N Priya Ravichandran, Divisional Fire Officer, Chennai, Tamil Nadu Fire and Rescue Services, perhaps you will know. To mark the 101st International Women’s Day, Global Adjustments launched the Outstanding Woman Award, to honour women who go the extra mile for the betterment of their community’s culture and heritage. When the 244year-old KalasMahal, core of the Chepauk Palace and erstwhile home of the Nawabs of Arcot, caught fire,

Priya led her team from the front and managed to contain the damage to the building. She suffered 50 % burns in the process, and is currently recovering in hospital. HH Maharaj Gaj Singh II of Jodhpur presented the award, a medal and a cheque, to her daughters. This annual awards committee comprises Steve Borgia, who promotes the preservation of heritage through his INDeco Hotels, HH Maharaj Gaj Singh II of Jodhpur, Dr. M Rajaram, IAS, Secretary, Department of Tamil Development, Religious Endowments and Information, Government of Tamil Nadu, and Ranjini Manian, CEO, Global Adjustments.

Tantalising Tastes

Coffee Morning

Marriage Mania

Indian cuisine is all about colours, spices and variety. And last month, a group of our Japanese and Korean friends discovered just that at IIC’s unique cookery session. They watched our star chef whip up Pulao rice, spinach and lentil gravy and completed the gastronomic tour with a lipsmacking caramel pudding.

Freshly brewed coffee with cakes and traditional Indian snacks and lots of shared experiences – our Coffee Mornings are probably the best way to start your day. At least, that’s what this group of expat spouses told us. On February 21, between sips of the strong brew, the ladies chit-chatted, caught up with each other and made new friends. They were also introduced to the traditional South Indian art of ‘Kolam’.

Get a feel of the big, fat Indian wedding at IIC! Learn to drape a saree, embellish your hands with mehendi, and understand the nuances of what makes an Indian wedding, the dos and don’ts. Or simply be a part of the festivities like this group of special guests from Indonesia. IIC hosted an entertainment that included parrot astrology, a small music concert and a special performance by an artist who sang and sketched at the same time.

culturama | april 2012

I See Colour

IIC EVENTS CALENDAR APRIL

EVENT Chennai Coffee Morning

Tamil New Year & 60th Anniversary celebrations for Japan- Indo bilateral trade

Astrology for Japanese

Yoga & Mediation Taste of India

Delhi

Festival

saaga WHEN you think of Holi, you think of colour, energy and that incredible feeling of togetherness that only unbridled fun can bring. A feeling captured at the Alliance Francaise Delhi, whereGlobal Adjustments and AGS Four Winds hosted its expat club, Dilli Saaga’s, first event. Our expat friends joined in the spirit of celebration, using colourful flower petals signifying rebirth and rejuvenation. This multinational expat group also savoured traditional snacks like ice-cold Thandai, a traditional drink made with milk, dry fruits, saffron, spices and rose petals. With this came a platter of Papri Chaat, fried wafers stuffed with boiled potatoes, chopped onions and tomatoes, and Gujiya, a crisp shell stuffed with a mixture of dried fruits. Dilli Saaga is a club that aims at benefiting global citizens in Delhi, helping them enjoy their stay, unraveling the nuances of Indian culture and their rationale, while the India Immersion Centre in the South is a hub for Indians and expats to link, learn and leave a legacy via culture.

DESCRIPTION

DATE & TIME

PRICE

Celebrating Festivals of India- Baisakhi & Tamil New Year

Wednesday 18th April 10am -12pm

Free, call for availabity and to register

Celebrating Tamil New Year with the Japanese community with traditional rituals ushering the new year and marking 60 years of bilateral trade with Japan

Friday 20th April 5:30 pm -8pm

By invitation only. Please call for further information

Glimpse into your future understanding Indian science of astrology

11th April 10 am-12pm 26th April 10am- 12pm

Call for invitation and avaibility

Introduction to Yoga & Meditation

Thursday, 5th April 10am – 1pm

Call for availabity and further information

A journey through the heart of India engaging all five senses leaving you with a sixth sense of wonder

Monday,23rd April 5pm – 7pm

Call for availability and prices

Celebrating Festivals of India- Baisakhi & Tamil New Year

Last week of April

For further details write to sunaina@ globaladjustments.com

culturama | april 2012

Global Citizen Ne i l M i l l er

Eyes Wide Shut

The world is truly a global village where we need to look beyond what we see. Whether it is the national or international arena or even your next-door neighbour, identities matter and how! Our writer tells us why.

Photo by Youngmi Kim

RECENTLY, President Obama was speaking with the President of Georgia about the economic development that has been going on in the country. However, at one point, he mistakenly referred to the former part of the Soviet Union as “Russia”. For an American who comes from a country where only 30% of people have a passport, this is an understandable mistake. But for the people of Georgia, it could have been a catastrophic blunder. In general, most nations are sensitive about their identity and there is always that one group of people that you don’t want to be mistaken for. Kiwis and Aussies, Finns and Russians, Brits and Irish – all over the world you find certain areas of heightened sensitivities if you confuse them. Never assume that a Canadian is an American, and don’t tell someone from Saudi Arabia they are from the “Persian” Gulf. As the secondmost populous continent with 56 independent countries, it’s a good idea to refer to Africa not as a country, but mention the specific nation you are speaking about. In our part of the world, probably the single biggest mistake you could make is to confuse an Indian for a Pakistani and vice versa. Recently, in our magazine, Culturama, we ran an interview of a man who we claimed was from Denmark, when he was actually from the Netherlands. While these countries are on cordial terms, we thought we would clear up any confusion that exists about that part of the world. People from the country of Denmark are called Danish or Danes and speak Danish. In general, they don’t have many negative feelings toward their neighbours, but are probably most proud of their defeat of Germany in football in the 1992 European Championship. They are known as a very peaceful country, and often work towards international reconciliation. People from The Netherlands are called Dutch, and their language is also Dutch (commonly mistaken for ‘Deutsch’, the language of Germany). Sometimes the word “Holland” is used informally to speak of the entire country, but technically, it is only a region within the Netherlands. There is a slight sensitivity with Germany, a combination of previous wars and their ongoing football woes against the Germans in major games. However, the deceased husband of the current Queen was a German aristocrat who became a much-loved figure. As we move towards becoming empowered Global Citizens, one of the most important things we can do is to get someone’s national identity right. After all, we are interacting with the world!

The writer is head of Business Strategy at Global Adjustments. He is American, and has lived in India for two years. For information on our training courses where we cover issues of finding middle ground in dealimg with hierarchy and cross-cultural issues, contact courses@globaladjustments.com.

culturama | april 2012

And the Award Goes To...

Rajan Iyer, CEO of Trimble, hands over the “I Make a Difference to Trimble” badge to Global Adjustments’ cross-cultural trainer, Shanti Puducheri.

IT’S always deeply satisfying to be appreciated and we, at Global Adjustments, are no exception to that rule. So when Trimble, a company that has today become synonymous with GPS, honoured our crosscultural trainer, Shanti Puducheri, with an excellence award, we felt that we were indeed moving in the right direction, GPS style! Our association with Trimble began four years ago, when we conducted training programmes for the company to bridge cultures within. Positioned in 21 odd countries, a culturally viable work ethic is an integral part of their vision. We soon discovered that there was so much more to Trimble than the GPS. Trimble integrates a wide range of positioning technologies including laser, optical and inertial technologies with application in software, wireless communications, and services to provide complete commercial solutions. With their indelible global presence and contribution, it is certainly a feather

in our cap that they appreciate our work and specially mention the difference our training programmes have made to Trimble. Comments from participants like “Best halfday anyone can spend in India”, “The content moves along at the right pace and the lessons can be fully absorbed”, and “I’m not just being nice – it couldn’t have been better” are not just encouraging, but hugely inspiring, lending credibility to our relationship with Trimble. It is with a deep sense of gratitude for their support that we accept this award. As Shanti says, “We focus on certain key aspects that every customer requires. We are flexible and come up with tailor-made modules for our clients. The focus is not just on the group as a whole, but each individual is given personal attention. All the positive energy is allowed to break boundaries and soar. Most importantly, the intent and passion we have to make a foreigner feel at home in India comes to the forefront to break the ice and let them enjoy the experience.”

culturama | april 2012

holistic living ek n a t h e s wara n

Photo: Darren Burnham

The War Within WE OPEN the Gita and are plunged into the confusion of war. Armies are about to clash, and the air echoes with the blare of conch horns and the trumpeting of elephants in full armor â&#x20AC;&#x201C; pandemonium that surely belongs more to the Iliad or even a war movie than to a scripture on yoga. Yet this drama is essentially stage-setting â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a bridge to the real beginning of the Bhagavad Gita in Chapter Two, when Sri Krishna begins to teach. Then we find ourselves in a different world, serene and detached, where verse after verse reveals that the battle referred to is one that takes place within: the struggle between right and wrong, selfishness and selflessness, anger and compassion that rage continuously in every human heart. The chaos of the opening chapter only mirrors the turmoil we feel within. Each of us can recognise Arjunaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crisis here, caught as he is between opposing forces in a struggle beyond his control. With reason and duty pleading for both sides, he is pulled in two, so unsure of what is right that he cannot act:

culturama | april 2012

ARJUNA

O Krishna, I see my own relations here anxious to fight and my limbs grow weak; my mouth is dry, my body shakes, and my hair is standing on end. My skin burns, and the bow Gandiva has slipped from my hand. I am unable to stand; my mind seems to be whirling. These signs bode evil for us. . . .(1:28–31) Much of this struggle is hidden from our conscious awareness. We may glimpse it in dreams or therapy sessions, but we have learned to close our eyes and pretend it does not exist. We see only its consequences, the painful wastage of conflict and indecision that litters our days: the skirmishes of daily life, quarrels at home and work, angry outbursts at those we love, absurd tensions that we can neither explain nor set aside. Turbulent thoughts urge us in opposing directions, undermining the will, leaving us doubtful and confused about what to do. This may not be Ypres or Stalingrad, but the fight is epic enough – and, like the Hundred Years War, it can last a lifetime. All the confusion in our daily lives, the Gita teaches, arises from this turmoil in the mind. Uncertain about what to do, we end up fighting on both sides. We are fighting ourselves, and the conflict lays waste our strength. Underlying this confusion, the Gita would say, is a kind of schizophrenia. We don’t know who we are. We don’t know what we are as human beings, so we are divided against ourselves. On the one hand, we behave like separate creatures engaged in a struggle for survival with the rest of life. Yet at some deep level, we also know that this image of ourselves is inaccurate: that we are not separate from nature but part of a much larger whole, motivated not merely by personal survival but even more by love, ideals, beauty, a sense of right and wrong – values that can’t be denied without losing something of our humanity. That is why Arjuna’s plea for help at the outset of the Gita – so immediate, so personal, so urgent – is met by a reply that is lofty, universal, and timeless: SRI KRISHNA You speak sincerely, but your sorrow has no cause. The wise grieve neither for the living nor for the dead. There has never been a time when you and I and the kings gathered here have not existed, nor will there be a time when we will cease to exist. . . . The

impermanent has no reality; reality lies in the eternal. Those who have seen the boundary between these two have attained the end of all knowledge. Realize that which pervades the universe and is indestructible; no power can affect this unchanging, imperishable reality. The body is mortal, but that which dwells in the body is immortal and immeasurable…. You were never born; you will never die. You have never changed; you can never change. Unborn, eternal, immutable, immemorial, you do not die when the body dies. (2:11-12, 16-20) Under the circumstances, this reply sounds hopelessly philosophical. Arjuna is in a crisis that is about to explode, with disastrous consequences; he wants to know what to do. We may feel similarly impatient facing our own crises. Yet instead of hacking at branches, the Gita is going to the root. If we don’t know who we are, we can’t know what we want and will go on seeking things that can’t satisfy us, ultimately at the expense of anyone who gets in the way. At first this leads merely to frustration, but frustration leads to anger and anger can build up to war. Only by understanding who we are and what can truly satisfy us can we find a basis for living together in peace and prosperity. To be continued...

Join us every Saturday India Immersion Centre in Chennai facilitates a weekly spiritual fellowship group following Easwaran’s Eight Point Programme of Meditation in Chennai. E-mail us for more information at contactiic@globaladjustments. com and Sharanya Govind at 9710947713. If you are in other cities visit www. easwaran.org for e-satsangs.

Reprinted with permission from “Essence of Bhagavad Gita” http://www.easwaran.org Eknath Easwaran (1910–1999) founded the Blue Mountain Center of Meditation in 1961. The Center offers books and retreats based on the eight-point program of passage meditation that Easwaran developed, taught, and practiced. To learn more, visit http://www.easwaran.org

culturama | april 2012

Myth & Mythology De v d u t t pa t t a n a i k

Life in the BALANCE

Lakshmi: Goddess of Wealth

Saraswathi: Goddess of Wisdom

The writer shares a lesser known story from Indian mythology to illustrate modern world’s understanding of wealth and wisdom BOTH Ganesha and Kubera are pot-bellied deities with short arms and legs. Both are Yaksha-murtis, and bring in prosperity. Kubera is the Treasurer of the Gods and a devotee of Shiva, the Hermit-God, while Ganesha is the son of Shiva. Despite many similarities, there is a fundamental difference between the two, which is why Kubera is a Gana while Ganesha is Lord of Ganas. Once, Kubera felt sorry for Ganesha who loved to eat. “Let me feed you,” said Kubera, “as clearly your father cannot afford to do so.” Ganesha accepted Kubera’s invitation, went to his house, and ate all that was offered. “I am still hungry,” said the Elephant-headed God. Kubera had to procure more food using the money in his treasury. Ganesha ate all that was served and kept asking for more. Finally, Kubera fell at his feet and begged him to stop eating. “You are draining me dry,” he cried. Ganesha then said with a smile, “Any attempt to satisfy

hunger with food will never be successful. If anything, food will amplify hunger. My father, Shiva, therefore seeks to outgrow the need for food.” This is the discourse of contentment rejected by the modern secular world we live in. The modern secular world today is dominated by two ideologies, both based on wealth and economics, broadly classified as Capitalism and Communism (or the latter’s more acceptable avatar, Socialism). Both seek to create a happy world, and both believe that happiness is a function of wealth. Capitalism believes that generation of more wealth will create happiness; Communism believes that better distribution of wealth will create happiness. Capitalism celebrates individual entrepreneurship while Communism seeks governmental interventions. India has flirted with both – Communism for the first few decades after independence

and now Capitalism. Neither has brought happiness to India. And neither seems to offer solutions to the near future. Both these theories are suspicious of the ‘discourse of contentment’. Capitalists fear that this will destroy the market and prevent the creation of new customers. They float advertisements where people are mocked at for being satisfied with their lot in life, and where mothers are advised to tackle scarcity not by celebrating sharing but by wishing for more wealth. Communists view the ‘discourse of contentment’ with suspicion. They are convinced it is the propaganda of the rich to ensure the poor stay poor and do not ask for their rights. Without discontentment, there will be no revolution. Modern management is obsessed with ‘growth’. But everyone refers to material growth alone. Traditional thought also celebrates growth. That is why symbols of growth like mountains of food, cone shaped sweets, and overflowing pots of milk are considered auspicious symbols. But growth in the religious and spiritual framework is not material alone. It is also intellectual and emotional growth. When a man evolves intellectually and grows emotionally, he becomes content with his wealth, and starts to share his wealth. He includes others in his prosperity. Growth then is not at the cost of others; it is for the benefit of all. When this happens, there is no need for socialist revolutions or corporate social responsibility. Wealth flows through the pyramid of society rather spontaneously. The writer is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group, and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology. This article was first published in the Speaking Tree series of The Times of India dated August 21, 2011. .

The writer is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group, and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology. This article was first published in the Speaking Tree series of The Times of India dated August 21, 2011. 60

culturama | april 2012

APRIL

Festivals of India

Easter

Vishu

Baisakhi

Akshaya Tritiya

The day when Jesus Christ was resurrected, this day signifies the joy of rebirth for Christians all around the world. On this day, Indian-Christians celebrate Easter in a grand manner, with exchange of gifts, church services and extravagant carnivals. Although decorating eggs is not a practice here, they are often bought to be given as presents to children. Easter in Goa deserves special mention when street plays, competitions and dances are staged.

For people in Kerala, Vishu is the first day of the Malayalam Calendar. The highlight of this occasion is being led blindfolded at the crack of dawn to gaze into a mirror. Cereals, rice, fruits, vegetables and coins are placed in front of the decorated mirror. Seeing images of wealth and prosperity first thing is believed to be lucky! This ritual is called Vishukani or the auspicious view. If you are in Kerala or are visiting a Malayalee home, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the sadhya or the feast. The star dish is Vishu Kanji, made of rice and coconut.

The major harvest festival celebrated in North India, especially in Punjab, Baisakhi is celebrated with much aplomb by Sikhs (the followers of Sikhism). It also is an astrological milestone as the Sun moves into Taurus. On this day, people offer thanksgiving prayers to God and then begin an elaborate process of cooking full five course meals. Concerts, fairs and games are organised and people have a blast!

This day is considered as the day of eternal luck. It is believed that any new venture started on this day would soar to great heights. Lord Ganesh is supposed to have written the Indian epic, Mahabharata, on this day. It is also the day when the most sacred river Ganga is supposed to have descended to the earth from the heavens. Today, however, the name Akshaya Tritiya is synonymous with the gold rush in Indian markets.

culturama | april 2012

Photo Feature

P ra v ee n a S h i v ram

facing Divinity

If you have ever wondered what God looked like, then simply turn to the streets of India for a dose of unexpected wisdom WHEN Alanis Morissette’s song, ‘What if God was One of Us’, hit the charts in America in 1995, it immediately catapulted to the number one position. It resonated with an entire population’s angst, the lyrics a mixture of overt hopelessness and underlying hope. But then, Morissette hadn’t been to India yet, because if she had, she would have witnessed more than just one God riding the bus or walking the streets on their way home. Painted faces, painted bodies, creative accessories, and imitative gestures, India’s street gods give you a different facet to divinity. From Lord Shiva of the Holy Trinity to Hanuman the Monkey God, the variety is there for you to see, and you cannot help but admire their resourcefulness. They can pray for you, bless you, or simply smile and pose for a photograph, but, there is a catch. It’s always in return for something. Considering they are largely representative of India’s homeless, who take to the streets to make a living, that something is money. If that sounds oddly smug or contemptuous, then it’s not meant to be. It is, instead, a very telling reflection of the deals we indulge in as well, however unconsciously, with whoever we consider the almighty. Now if this sounds didactic, then it is meant to be. Not so much as an uptight preacher moralising, but as a curious human being pleased as punch about a certain discovery. What set this thought process in motion was watching a precocious little boy, dressed quite ingeniously as Ganesha, the elephant-headed god, outside a local temple. He was all of four feet tall, was wearing a mask of the god, and had a few metres of cloth tied around his waist to give us the pot-belly effect. He was quite endearing with his toothy grin and charmed quite a few people into parting with a few precious coins. For this, he danced around a bit, sang a few devotional numbers and even play acted one of Ganesha’s stories. After about an hour, he promptly went into the temple and dropped some of his hard-earned money into the silver receptacle at the temple entrance, offering a quick prayer on his way out. A deal is a deal, even if you are playing God. Just makes one realise that this road to nirvana we are all on, is a hard one. Even with gods among us.

culturama | april 2012

Christine Liechti

Basia

Jon Moellebro

Yana Fetova

culturama | april 2012

tell us your story

The ouse Whisperer Your monthly dose of information to wish away your relocation and realty blues. Why do landlords take a deposit, apart from the rent? That seems a bit greedy. We don’t do that in Europe? – German tenant in Delhi The system of taking deposits evolved because of several tenants extending their lease period without paying their rent, or skipping rent for several months. It is a financial safeguard for the landlord, much the same way banks ask for a collateral security when issuing a home loan. The deposits vary from city to city and may be negotiable. The deposit norm is usually 6 to 10 months’ rent. Do remember to ask for the entire deposit amount when you move out at the end of your contract. It is fully refundable in every city. What exactly do expats mean by furnished homes in India? They seem to want much more than we usually do. – Landlord in Bengaluru Expatriates, especially from Europe, Australia and North America, are used to large houses and specific furniture styles. They usually do not sit on the floor and prefer adequate seating for themselves and their guests. Many expats prefer to have distinct formal and informal entertaining areas. Also, expats like both sheer and heavy drapes to let the sun in or block it out entirely. The kitchen is usually fully modular. The idea is to not let any personal item be visible. Hence, the need for adequate storage space as well. Finally, white goods and convenience items are almost necessary for expats, while it may

be a luxury here. For example, dryers. You may wonder why dryers are necessary in a place like India, but expats prefer to dry clothes in a machine, not on a clothesline. Here’s a tip – consult interior decoration magazines or an expert on how to do up your house. Keep your budget flexible, as sometimes you may have to provide additional items on request. Some items that are usually negotiable are the Annual Maintenance Contracts for upkeep, curtains and upholstery changes, and the actual cutlery. You say you are my broker, then why can’t you fix up the home I rent to my satisfaction? – Tenant in Chennai Brokers are actually negotiating experts who have to balance two sides of a scale. That calls for tact and diplomacy. Many brokers in India do not understand expat requirements and operate from the landlord side only. In other cases, brokers are expats and do not understand the Indian viewpoint. Some expertise is required by a Realty Expert to understand and balance both points of view, as in India, all deals are relationship driven. We recommend that you list your specifications in order of priority. Ensure that you communicate it with your broker. This would lead to at least your key requirements being fulfilled. Reputed brokers usually try their best to ensure that your requirements are fulfilled to the best possible quality and in time.

If you are relocating to India and have a question on relocation & housing, please visit us at www.globaladjustments.com/realty.html or email us realty@globaladjustments.com. Follow us on 64

culturama | april 2012

Space & The City

Global Adjustments

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Easing your passage to and from India

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For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 22 66104191/9833392620 or email: mum@globaladjustments.com

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For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 124 435 4236/9811111759 or email: del@globaladjustments.com Please note that any changes to the information above are done at the property owner’s sole discretion. Global Adjustments assumes no responsibility for such changes.

culturama | april 2012

Space & The City

Global Adjustments Easing your passage to and from India

Owners, list your property with us for MNC clients. Renters and buyers, we are your one-stop shop for all real estate needs.

Chennai

15 years of bringing the world to India

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Beautiful Beach house - Kovalam

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• 6000 sq ft • 4 bed rooms plus formal, informal living rooms and an entertainment room • Fully air conditioned with power back-up • Swimming pool • Close to the beach

Contemporary new house in an upcoming expatriate area, close to mall and factory area - Annanagar

Modern duplex house close to the American school on OMR

Contemporary house close to the beach – Neelangarai

• Western design, new house • 4000 sqft/ 5BR • Fully furnished with contemporary furniture • Fully air conditioned

• 2800 sq ft /4 bedrooms compliant to green building norms • Landscaped terrace, water bodies, art work • Fully furnished with straight-line premium furniture

• 6000 sqft/5BR • Modern and Fully furnished • Beautiful garden

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•2700/- sq. ft / 3 bedrooms + study • Servants room • Contemporary style • Power back-up

• 4000 sqsft/4 BR • Western style open kitchen , dining & living area with elegant kitchen cabinets • Full electricity backup with Generator • Sea view from the terrace with sit-outs • Open family lounge area on the first floor

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For more such properties, call Global Adjustments at 91 44 24617902/9551695968 (Chennai), or e-mail: realty@globaladjustments.com Please note that any changes to the information above are done at the property owner’s sole discretion. Global Adjustments assumes no responsibility for such changes.

culturama | april 2012

RNI NO.TNENG/2010/32752

REGISTERED No. TN/CC(S) Dn./396/10-12