Culturama December 2014 by Rohini Manian

culturama your cultural gateway to india

December 2014 Volume 5, Issue 10 Rs 40

Smile India, You're on Camera!

Pick of the best images from the 17th Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition

Culturama Festive Gift Catalogue

Put a smile on your loved onesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; faces â&#x20AC;&#x201D; pick from our curated list of exclusive products

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December 2014

Dear Readers, Before the days of ‘selfies’, there was something precious and rare about photographs. Those were the days of tripods, large cameras and steady hands. Film was expensive, equipment was bulky, and setting up the camera to shoot a single photo could easily take thirty minutes. Then, lens of all shapes and styles to capture 180-degree views emerged. Not long after, point-and-shoot cameras found their way into our hands. Even so, there were only 18 or 36 photos that could be shot on a roll of film – and the wait for the pictures to be printed was charged with excitement. Today, iPads and iPhones create instant images with very little effort, as do the many digital cameras that are light to carry and easy to use. Photos are now shot and ‘shared’ within seconds. Gone are the days of bulky photo albums – everything is now stored on a digital ‘cloud’. Yet, the final product is defined by the moment in which it was formed. A painted camel, dozens of overhanging people on transportations, gorgeous colours of nature and the unforgettable faces of mankind – it is to celebrate these perspectives of India that we organise the Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition each year. Join us in celebrating this special event – we have put together the best of this year’s entries in a special spread (Page 38). This year’s special category was ‘Global Children’ – keeping in mind the little ones who are able to extend a hand and build a bridge, regardless of the other’s race, religion or language. Talking about building bridges, we have featured a special Thought Leader this month – a man who grew up in a tiny village in South India, and went on to become a Professor at Kellogg School of Management in the United States. Turn to Page 14 to read about Dr. Bala V. Balachandran – a true global citizen.

At the 17th Photo Competition awards ceremony

I must touch on the fact that December means the countdown to Christmas and New Year’s – a time when goodwill and cheer is in the air. We have curated a special list of things to do and places to go to for Christmas in our Festival of the Month (Page 62). To make the gifting part easier, we have a special catalogue (Pages 48) – there is something for everyone. Wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief globalindian@globaladjustments.com

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Letters to the editor

Credits This little girl was feeding the pigeons at Jama Masjid in New Delhi when she was photographed by Anne Daugherty (USA). The photo was selected as the Overall Best Photo in the 17th Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition. Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Associate Editor Yamini Vasudevan Business Head Sheeba Radhamohan Sub-Editor Shefali Ganesh Senior Designer Prem Kumar Finance Controller V Ramkumar Circulation S Raghu Advertising Bengaluru Meera Roy Chennai Amritha Suresh Delhi/NCR Neha Verma Mumbai/Pune Deepa Navani To subscribe to this magazine, write to circulation@globaladjustments.com or access it online at www.culturama.in Chennai (Headquarters) 5, 3rd Main Road, R A Puram, Chennai – 600028 Telefax +91-44-24617902 Email culturama@globaladjustments.com Bengaluru 17/16, Ali Asker Road, Off. Cunningham Road, Bengaluru – 560 052 Mobile +91 99869 60316 Email culturamablr@globaladjustments.com Delhi-NCR 1414, DLF Galleria Tower, DLF Phase IV, Gurgaon, Haryana – 122009 Mobile +91-124-4389488 Email del@globaladjustments.com Mumbai #1102, 11th floor, Peninsula Business Park, Tower B, SB Road, Lower Parel, Mumbai – 400013 Tel +91-22-66879366 Email mum@globaladjustments.com Published and owned by Ranjini Manian at #5, 3rd Main Road, Raja Annamalai Puram, Chennai – 600028, and printed by K Srinivasan of Srikals Graphics Pvt Ltd at #5, Balaji Nagar, 1st Street, Ekkattuthangal, Chennai – 600032 Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Disclaimer Views and opinions expressed by writers do not necessarily reflect the publisher’s or the magazine’s.

Dear Editor,

“How wonderful Culturama looks! It seems a million miles away from the few-pages issue, when I saw it sometime back. Most importantly, the magazine still holds true to the ethos and its mission from the beginning.” - Sejal Wasani, UK

Dear Editor,

“I happened to chance upon a copy of Culturama at a friend’s place. I find it amazing and have subscribed to it.” - Avinash Jella, India

Dear Editor,

“I look forward eagerly to each issue of Culturama. It is vibrant, full of colour and life. The photos are exquisite and the articles are well chosen, so the residual impression is very powerful.” - V. Chandrasekhar, India

Dear Editor,

“The articles in each issue of Culturama are very informative and interesting. Your editorial sets the tone for each issue – your call in the October issue to educate a girl in each family was particularly inspirational.” - K.R. Ganapathy, India

Dear Editor,

“It is always very refreshing to see your foreword in Culturama. The articles are amazing too. I have been an admirer of your vision.” - Hema Narayanan, India

Dear Editor,

“My wife and I had I have had the pleasure of reading Culturama for over a decade – we vie with each other to be the first to read it, and look forward it month after month. Of all sections, your Editorial takes the cake! It is not easy to come up with a gripping editorial month after month – you do it with panache, focusing on current happenings, be it a festival or sporting event, and your choice of phrases and words are exquisite. Keep up the good work.” - Kumar Mudaliar, India

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Culturama’s contributors 01 Susan Philip is a freelance writer based in Chennai, and the editorial coordinator of Culturama’s various coffee table books. 02 Devdutt Pattanaik is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group, and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology. Visit www.devdutt.com

05 Anita Krishnaswamy is President of Global Adjustments and a relocation expert. She has several years of experience working with expat clients across the country.

04 Harini Sankaranarayanan is an ardent foodie and a professional chocolatier. She has a degree in Hotel Management, English Literature and Theatre.

03 Devanshi Mody studied Physics, French and Philosophy at Oxford, then fortuitously stumbled into travel writing. Vagabond urges notwithstanding, she’s ever lured back to Chennai for masala dosas!

Advisory Board members 06 N. Ram is an award-winning journalist and former Editorin-Chief of The Hindu. He is Director of Kasturi & Sons Limited, publishers of The Hindu. 07 Suzanne McNeill lived in India for seven years, first in Chennai and then in Delhi. She has now returned to Scotland, where she works as a freelance writer and graphic designer.

08 Babette Verbeek is a correspondent for BNR Nieuwsradio who previously worked in Amsterdam and Milan. Now she joyfully explores the beauty of South Indian culture. 09 Marina Marangos is a lawyer by profession but enjoys travel and writing. She lived in India for four years before moving to Australia. She blogs at www.mezzemoments.blogspot.com

10 G. Venket Ram is an acclaimed photographer and the creative mind behind many a Culturama issue. To know more about his work, log on to www.gvenketram.com 11 Kathelijne van Eldik, from Holland, has been in Mumbai since 2004. Her employment with an airline is not a surprise, considering she has been raised in different countries and has it in her DNA to travel.

12 Marcel Van Mourik is a Dutch photographer living in New Delhi for the past three years. Together with his cameras, he is passionate about discovering Indian culture.

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Contents Regulars 14

Thought Leaders

Management guru, Dr. Bala V. Balachandran talks about B-schools, post-retirement options and more.

28 Feature India’ music tradition, one of the oldest in the world, is a fascinating blend of historic and local influences.

India’s Culture 10

Short Message Service

India Now

A recap of events, people and places that made news in the past month.

India Writes

A space for discussing the best from India’s world of literature.

Ten for the Road

Trivia about an Indian state – featuring Jammu and Kashmir this month.

Short, engaging snippets of Indian culture.

Expats in India share their stories on a practical theme for everyday survival in this country.

In your Kitchen

Nothing says ‘Christmas’ more than a rich plum cake from Kerala.

Festival of the Month

Look Who’s In Town At Global Adjustments

Ring in Christmas cheer by participating in the festivities.

We take a look at awards ceremony for the 17th Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition, with a display of the winning entries.

Myth & Mythology

Stories from India’s mythology, reinterpreted for practical living.

Journeys Into India 42

India Impressions

A stroll through the ancient South Indian temples can reveal much about the region’s history and cultural underpinnings.

Calendar of Events

See what’s going on in the main metros and suburbs.

The Lighter Side

The journey is as important as the destination when you take a ride on India’s roads.

Relocations and Property 70

Realty Bytes

Practical advice from Global Adjustments’ relocation expert.

Space and the City

Property listings across the metros.

Seeing India

Relax in the small town pleasures of picturesque Fort Kochi, or admire the intricate temple carvings in Bhubaneswar.

Holistic Living

Once we remember that our time here is limited, we can focus on making the most of it.

48 Festive Catalogue Charm your loves ones – Culturama has put together an exclusive selection of gifts in different categories for this festive season.

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by Suzanne McNeill Short cultural snippets for an easily digestible India

Art, Textile and Craft: Gambhira Masks West Bengal

Mask making is one of India’s most ancient art forms, and is closely related to folk dance and drama, where masks are integral to the ritual. Gambhira dance dramas are popular in West Bengal, and combine narrative, song and music. Gambhir was once a form of worship associated with Lord Shiva. It has now evolved into a drama that is magical, animistic and shamanistic in nature but enables the performers to express concerns about social and economic issues, highlighting the problems of the poor. The masks that are worn by gambhir performers are carved out of soft wood, and painted in bright colours. Prayers are offered before the ritual dance begins to summon the vital life force called prana into the masks.

Words

Urban Adventure

The word thali serves a double function. It is the name given to a round metal plate as well as the name of the meal that is traditionally presented on this plate. A thali meal is made up of a selection of dishes, served in small bowls, which include vegetarian or meat curries, daal, yoghurt and pickles, with a mound of rice or breads depending on the region, and provides the opportunity to taste many Indian dishes at one sitting. A Hindi expression, thali lagao, means ‘lay the table’. In southern India, thali is the local word for the sacred necklace that a Hindu groom ties around his bride’s neck during the wedding ceremony.

For Lucknowites, no air-conditioned shopping mall can beat the ambiance of ‘the Ganj’, as this historic market is known locally. Situated in the heart of the city, Hazratganj Market underwent a retro-style makeover two years ago, and now boasts of Victorian-style street lights and benches, and themed shop signs. The market offers everything from high-end showrooms to flea market shopping, and is known for its quality chikan textiles, the embroidery style unique to Lucknow. The atmosphere is best in the evenings, when locals go to hang out and eat kulfi at Moti Mahal, chaat at Jain, or to feast on the excellent Awadhi cuisine.

‘Thali’ (plate) vs ‘Thali’ (meal)

Hazratganj Market, Lucknow

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Photo: Christele Gauthier, France

Interpretations Food and Drink Kozhakattai

Kozhakattai are popular sweet dumplings that are a favourite in Tamil Nadu and Maharashtra (where they are called modak). They are commonly made for the Hindu festival of Ganesh Chaturthi, as it is said to be a favourite snack of the elephant-headed God. The dough is made from rice flour, oil and water, which is shaped like a small cup then stuffed with a filling of grated coconut, jaggery and cardamom. The kozhakattai are moulded into dumplings and then steamed.

In temples across India, food is offered to the gods as a ritual form of thanksgiving. The food, which can be sweet or spicy, and is made with rice, fruit and condiments, is made specially in kitchens housed within the temples or in devotees’ homes. Having been offered to the deity, the food is believed to be sanctified, and is called prasad. The prasad is then shared among devotees as a gift and a blessing from god. Underlying this centuries-old tradition is the belief that we must accept whatever life doles out to us. Devotees entreat the Lord’s blessing, or prasad, as He knows best why we need a particular experience at a specific time. The philosophy of prasad explains why Indians remain smiling despite all odds, and it is a representation of their deep faith.

He/She Lives On Dhirubhai Ambani

Dhirubhai Ambani was an ambitious and energetic business tycoon who founded Reliance Industries, now one of the world’s biggest conglomerates and the first Indian company to feature in the Forbes 500 list. He was born in Gujurat in 1932 and raised in a frugal environment. After a formative spell working in Yemen, Ambani began his entrepreneurial career in Mumbai in 1958, exporting spices to the Gulf States and importing polyester yarns. Soon Reliance began producing nylon textiles at a mill in Ahmedabad under the brand name ‘Vimal’, and by 1972 the textiles business was a well-established household brand across India. During the 1980s, Reliance expanded into petrochemicals, and oil and gas exploration, and then diversified further into telecommunications, IT and logistics. Dhirubhai Ambani died in 2002.

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Thought Leaders by Yamini Vasudevan

true | blue

success story What does it take to start a top B-school at the age of 64? We talk to Dr. Bala V. Balachandran – Founder and Dean of the 10-year-old Great Lakes Institute of Management (Chennai) – who turned edupreneur in his second innings, after setting the bar really high with a string of academic successes in the UNited States

Dr. Bala V. Balachandran does not like it when people approach him and say, “We have a problem.” He immediately turns around and says, “You are not here to tell me about problems – you are here to find solutions. If you cannot do that, you should not be here.” And this is a principle he follows stringently – as is illustrated by his achievements. Born in a small village near Pudukottai district in Tamil Nadu in South India, to a family that could not even afford two square meals a day (“Sometimes, I didn’t even have one full meal”), he worked his way to a Masters Degree from Annamalai University in South India, and went on to get a Masters Degree in Engineering from the University of Dayton and an MBA from Carnegie Mellon University. He continued at Carnegie to get a PhD in Industrial Administration. He began his teaching career in 1960 as a graduate student at Annamalai University, then continued it when he moved to the United States. In 1973, he joined the Kellogg School of Management’s faculty, and was appointed Chairman of the Department of Accounting Information and Management from 1979 to 1983. He was Director of the Accounting Research Center from 1985 to 2006. He was also awarded the Padma Shri, the fourth most prestigious civilian award in India, by the Indian Government. In 2004, at the age of 64, he founded the Great Lakes Institute of Management (GLIM) in Chennai. The institute, regarded as one of the top B-schools in India, has a platinumrated ‘green’ campus. Today, he is 77 years old, but talks

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and acts with the energy of a man half his age. A true global citizen, Dr. Bala shuttles between the United States and India, juggling his responsibilities as Founder-Dean of GLIM and J.L. Kellogg Distinguished Professor in Accounting, Information & Management and Decisions Sciences, advisory responsibilities towards top business and government leaders (including Barrack Obama and Narendra Modi), co-authoring several books, and, occasionally, indulging in his favourite hobby – watching a movie or two. Culturama had the opportunity to catch up with Dr. Bala while he was in Chennai recently. Here are some excerpts from the conversation. Looking back, you have had an amazing journey. For those who are aspiring to be the next Bala Balachandran, what advice do you have? You may not be endowed with riches or extreme intelligence, but if you believe that anything is possible, you can achieve what you set out for yourself. Remember this: the alphabet ‘A’ is only seen when you reach a ‘thousand’. Until then, the ‘a’ cannot be seen in any of the other numbers. Until you reach that stage, and are awarded that ‘A’, you may face several obstacles, but nothing should deter you. My mother was only a third-grader, but she once told me something that I still abide by. I was seven years old, and my birthday and the region’s king’s birthday fell on the same day. There was a grand procession in which the king would come out on the royal elephant, and we had gone to see the procession. Three beautifully decked elephants were leading the way, and the most grandly decorated elephant was carrying the king. Some dogs at the side of the street were barking at the elephant. My mother pointed to the dogs and said, ‘Those dogs are trying to irritate the elephant by barking at him. That elephant could easily crush the dogs, but if he does that, he will end up jolting the king. The elephant understands that he has a bigger responsibility and will not bother about the dogs. Same way, when you bear a big position on your shoulders, you should ignore those who criticise and abuse you – don’t use your power to crush them just to satisfy your ego. Instead, remember that you have bigger things to worry about.’ We are seeing a huge wave of students coming out of B-schools – and many of them have a chip on their shoulders when it comes to their degrees. Is an MBA a ‘must’ to be a good leader? No. Leaders can come from anywhere. In business leadership, an MBA is a useful vehicle, but it is not something that should make you arrogant. To ensure that our students

at GLIM don’t end up treating the degree as a badge of pride alone, we have a programme in which they have to spend the Thursday of each week in a village we have adopted, where they will each work with a family. About two-thirds of our students are non-South Indians and have no working knowledge of Tamil, so this is an added challenge. This is to ensure that they don’t get arrogant about being an MBA – they have to see and experience poverty firsthand so that they don’t live and work in a world far removed from reality. What is your view about the role of women in business? There is a reason why God chose women, and not men, to bear a child. If it had been the other way around, it would have been a disaster. Women are very patient – and their patience is the most important weapon they have when it comes to achieving big things in every walk of life. I always say that if there is a task force, I would like to appoint a lady as the chairperson – she will make sure the job gets done. I am an ‘amma pillai’ (‘mother’s boy’ in Tamil), so I have tremendous respect for women. You turned edupreneur and started GLIM at the age of 64. What advice do you have for people who want to start a ‘second innings’ after retirement? Any day, any time, under any circumstances, you can do anything – if you make up your mind. And you don’t have to decide and do things at 20 or 25. A good wine takes time to age, to become special – same way, there is nothing wrong in waiting for your turn. In the meantime, learn – learn from mistakes, from success stories, from role models. From 30 to 39 is when you settle into family and raising children.

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“Any day, any time, under any circumstances, you can do anything – if you make up your mind. And you don’t have to decide and do things at 20 or 25. A good wine takes time to age, to become special – same way, there is nothing wrong in waiting for your turn.”

At 40 or in the mid-40s, look back and identify your ‘trump card’ or core competency – and use it. Assuming there is a need from the customer for this competency of yours, you will find success. If you don’t have a core competency, find a woman or man who has one and marry that person. If both are not possible, find a partner who has it and join him/her to create and run the business. You have said that you like to watch movies – are there any examples in movies that are applicable to business? Of course! I have used the case of a movie called The Untouchables (starring Kevin Costner, Sean Connery and Robert de Niro), wherein a gang leader is convicted not on the basis of the murders he has committed but for a minor tax evasion – when he is convicted, he ends up shouting about the people he has killed. In one scene, Sean Connery shoots a dead body to scare a man into confessing the truth – the man doesn’t know the other is dead, and is terrified that he might be shot if he doesn’t talk. I use it to show how there are several situations in business where you might have to turn to new means to get what you want. I also use examples from Indian mythology – from epics like the Mahabharata to illustrate how, because of association

with the wrong person, all of your life’s work may end up going to waste. Even if you are a wonderful person, being on the wrong side will mean you are never free – even in the field of business. You have been a success in America and India. What are some things both countries can learn from each other? Indians, in my opinion, use their left brain 120 percent – analytics, problems, mental maths. But they are lacking when it comes to communication, understanding the other person’s point of view, and listening. Americans will not push themselves onto you, and they will listen carefully. A ‘plus’ factor in the ‘new India’ (after 1991) is that Indians feel that they can compete with anyone in the whole world. Americans feel they have reached the top floor – there is only one arrow, and that is pointing downwards. For Indians today, the way is up – they are eager to climb the ladder of success and they are willing to work for it. There is a lot of talk about India and America working together – especially after Mr. Narendra Modi’s recent visit to the United States. What are your thoughts on this? America and India are the world’s two great democracies – the world’s greatest democracy and the world’s largest democracy. Between them, a lot of great values can be synergistically created, which in turn can help the whole world.

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India now by Susan Philip

The month that was

The month that went by held much that made Indians everywhere hold up their heads with pride, but The country had its share of tragedy too

Business Matters The Trade Winds Are Blowing Strong Trade relations between India and the United States are set to get a boost with the two countries agreeing to resolve their differences on the food security issue under the World Trade Organization (WTO). The consensus reached will pave the way for wide-ranging reforms of customs rules under the Trade Facilitation Agreement (FTA), which will promote unhindered trade. Acche din (good times) are surely in the offing!

Open Sesame! Amazon has proposed a makeover for the Indian postal system, using high-end technology to develop a delivery mechanism based on smart logistics – much the same thing as e-commerce giant Alibaba did for the Chinese postal system. Amazon, which tied up with India Post last year to use the latter’s considerable network as a delivery channel, has submitted a plan in this regard to the Union Government. Amazon is aiming at 24-hour delivery across the country. Info-byte: India Post, with more than 1.6 lakh post offices across the country, is reportedly the largest postal network in the world.

Scientifically Speaking Science of Life, Way of Life Ayurveda, a traditional Indian system of medicine, can be roughly translated as ‘the science of life’. Prime Minister Narendra Modi says it should be projected as a way of life. Inaugurating the sixth World Ayurveda Congress (WAC) and Arogya Expo, he said ayurveda should not be seen as a competitor to allopathy but as a means of living a healthy life. The Expo was organised in New Delhi with the aim of integrating ayurveda with the mainstream public health system and propagating it globally as a safe and cost-efficient health care alternative. Q. Ayurveda is the best known Indian system of traditional medicine. Can you name three other fairly wide-spread ones? A. Unani, Siddha and Sowa-Rigpa.

Awards and Accolades The President and the Poet

Kedarnath Singh, a poet writing in Hindi, has won the country’s highest literary prize – the Jnanpith Award. Conferring the award on him, President Pranab Mukherjee described Singh as a poet of unique stature. “His approach is not only sensitive to modern aesthetics but also to traditional rural communities while at all times being committed to the celebration called life,” the President said.

Keeping Mental Health in Mind New Delhi–based psychiatrist Vikram Patel has been awarded the Rhoda and Bernard Sarnat International Prize in Mental Health, a top US award. “Through his research, Vikram Patel not only brought a largely unacknowledged problem – mental health disorders in developing nations – into the view of the world’s policymakers and healthcare organisations but he has also identified and advanced practical solutions to help those who are suffering,” said Victor Dzau, president of the Institute of Medicine.

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Harmony Awards The Harmony Foundation announced 10 winners of its prestigious Mother Teresa Memorial International Award for Social Justice, 2014. Among them were Anuradha Koirala of Nepal, who has rescued over 12,000 women from human trafficking; Prakash Amte, who, with his wife Mandakini, provides medical help to tribals; IAS officer Ujjwal Uke, for initiating reforms to protect sexually exploited children; and renowned social worker Medha Patkar. Q. Former Indian Prime Minister Dr. Manmohan Singh has been named for one of Japan’s top national honours. He is the first Indian to win the award. Can you name the prize? A. The Grand Cordon of the Order of the Paulownia Flowers. He has been given the award for his ‘significant contribution’ towards boosting bilateral ties.

Sports Spots Howzzat? Indian international cricketer Rohit Sharma created history when his 264 runs off just 173 balls made him the highest individual run scorer in a single oneday international (ODI) encounter as well as the only player to hit a double century in the 50-over format of the game. His feat also made India the only country to score over 400 runs in an ODI five times. Sharma’s blistering stint with the bat came against Sri Lanka. India went on to win the series 5-nil. Cricket buffs should read ‘Playing it My Way’, the autobiography of Sachin Tendulkar, the demi-God of cricket.

He Bagged It! Pankaj Advani beat Peter Gilchrist 6-2 in the final of the World billiards championship, to win his third title of the year. He had earlier won the World 6-Red Snooker and the World Team Billiards titles.

On the Victory Stand Ace badminton players K. Srinath and Saina Nehwal picked up the men’s and women’s singles championship titles at the China Open Super Series tournament. Saina got the better of

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Japan’s Akana Yagamuchi, while Srikanth downed Chinese world champion Lan Din, whom many consider the world’s greatest player of the game, to become the first Indian man to win the event.

They Got It Down to a Tee! S.S.P. Chowrasia won the Panasonic Open Golf Tournament at Delhi, and, just a week later, Rashid Khan picked up the title at the Chiangmai Golf Classic Tournament in Thailand, while another Indian, Jyothi Randhwa, came a joint second. Both events are part of the Asian Tour.

This and That Charming Chennai Lonely Planet has named Chennai among the top 10 cities to visit in its ‘Best in Travel 2015’ list. The global travel guide cites the city’s many temples, the long beach, museum, Colonial-era architecture and the thriving film industry among its attractions, but what has lifted the city to another plane is the soonto-be-launched metro rail network. Q. The Lonely Planet Travel Guide also lists bests in other categories, including countries and regions. In last year’s list, an Indian region topped. Do you know which one it was? A: Sikkim.

Banking on Banks Kerala and Goa became the first Indian states where every family has a bank account. Several lakhs of new accounts were opened in the two states under the Pradhan Mantri Jan Dhan Yojna (PMJDY), an initiative launched by Prime Minister Narendra Modi to achieve universal bank coverage. The PMJDY seeks to bring 7.5 crore households across the country, which do not have bank accounts, under the banking umbrella. Q. Three Union Territories also achieved 100 percent saturation under the scheme. Can you name them? A. Chandigarh, Puducherry and Lakshadweep.

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India writes

iREAD The Lowland by Jhumpa Lahiri

Reviewed by Babette Verbeek Close in age but far apart in character, brothers Subhash and Udayan grow up in the 1960s, sheltered by their parents in the green and humid lowlands of Kolkata (then Calcutta). In the backdrop, Calcutta is sweltering with social unrest and discontent – a time when the Naxalite movement is born. Subhash, the older one, is careful with a strong sense of responsibility towards his family. The younger brother, Udayan, is vivacious, carefree and full of idealistic opinions as to how society should function. After finishing high school, both of them are admitted to two of the city’s best colleges – exceptional for the simple neighbourhood where they grow up and making their parents proud. As the brothers grow older, their lives drift apart in distance and ideals. Subhash moves to Rhode Island in the United States to pursue a Ph.D. in Oceanography; Udayan shows up married at his parent’s doorstep, moves back in with his wife, Gauri, and gets deeply involved in the Naxalite movement. Udayan dies a violent death fighting for his beliefs. Shot in the backyard of his house by the Central Reserve Police after a raid is conducted at his house. Subhash returns home to mourn his brother and to support his family. Besides grief, he finds that Udayan has left behind an unborn child. Going against the wishes of his parents, he decides to marry Gauri, and bring the pregnant woman to Rhode Island. Subhash decides to make Rhode Island his new home, and to raise, Bela, Udayan’s and Gauri’s daughter, as his own. Throughout Bela’s youth, Subhash convulsively tries to shield her from Udayan’s existence. Gauri successfully pursues an academic career but, haunted by the past, finds it difficult to settle into family life – causing her to leave Subhash and Bela rather abruptly. Only years later, when Subhash overcomes his fear of losing Bela, is he able to tell her who her real father is. The family does comes back together in a reunion of sorts, but the moment is coloured by deep emotions and the guilt of relationships past. Udayan’s death permanently changes the lives of all his family members. It takes them years to regain balance from the violent event – most painful hurdle of all being the discovery that society remains unmarked by his death. Who is it by? Jhumpa Lahiri (1967) is an Indian American author. Lahiri’s parents came from West Bengal but she was born in London. The family moved to the East Coast of the United States when she was very young. Visit her website at: https://www.facebook.com/JhumpaLahiriAuthor.

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Explore the 29 states of this fascinating subcontinent. This segment will set out a collection of interesting, bite-size facts from each state – this month, we look at Jammu and Kashmir

Ten for the Road by Susan Philip

Jammu and Kashmir

How the Land Lies: This Himalayan state is made up of three regions – Jammu, the Kashmir Valley and Ladakh. It has two capitals – Srinagar in summer, and Jammu in winter.

Political Pressures: At the time of the partition of India

Uniquely J&K: It is the only Indian state to have its own

Ethnic Fingerprint: The region was predominantly

Culture Quotient: The Masked Dance in the Hemis Monastery of Ladakh is a not-to-be-missed experience. Monks clad in rich costumes and wearing masks to represent mythological characters put up this ceremonial performance. Wanawun music is distinctly Kashmiri, performed during wedding ceremonies. The Rouff, Dumhal, Nagma and Dogri are famous folk dances, while ghazals and Sufi songs are popular genres of music.

Personality Plus: In the world of entertainment, the

Sights to See: The breathtakingly beautiful Dal Lake,

Tasty Treats: The wazwan, a multi-course, meat-focused

and Pakistan, princely states were given the option of joining one country or the other. Maharaja Hari Singh, ruler of Kashmir, sought time to decide. Before he could make up his mind, Pakistan invaded his territory, which made him join the Indian Union. flag. It is one of the few places in the world where saffron grows. Houseboats are an integral part of the ‘real estate’ scene, and are taken for granted as dwelling places. The Kashmiri chilli gives a fiery red colour to food, but is surprisingly mild.

populated by nomadic herdsmen who moved across the mountain slopes in search of pasture for their flocks of sheep and goats. The Dogras are the largest ethnic group, the Gujjars and Gaddis are two others. The Changpas are a prominent tribe in the Ladakh region.

name of Kundan Lal Saigal stands out. The actor-singer was perhaps the first superstar of Hindi cinema. His title role as the drunken Devdas, unsuccessful in love, is considered iconic even today.

Shalimar Bagh, Gulmarg, Pahalgam and Sonamarg are much frequented tourist spots. For a thrilling encounter with the wild, take a Snow Leopard Trek in Ladakh – November to March is the ideal time. banquet, is the zenith of Muslim cuisine in Kashmir. Even the more plebian food of the region can be termed exotic. Take green tea, for example – traditionally made in special kettles called samovars, it is flavoured with spices and saffron.

10. Crafted with Care: Think Kashmir, and pashmina shawls

come to mind. The genuine article is made exclusively of wool from the undercoat of a breed of goat that lives in highaltitude areas, and is eye-poppingly expensive. When mixed with ordinary wool, though, they are more affordable. Carpets, distinctive embroidery in floral designs, and papier mâche artifacts are other specialties.

11. Worshipfully Yours: The cave shrine of Mata Vaishno

Devi, 5,200 feet above sea level, in the triple-peaked Trikuta Mountain draws hundreds of thousands of devotees from all over India and abroad. The arduous 12-km trek from the Katra base camp does not deter the pilgrims, who visit the cave for a glimpse of the sacred natural rock formations.

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of carols and Cake

Photo: www.grit.com

In Your Kitchen by Harini Sankaranarayanan

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Ingredients Butter 500 gm Sugar 500 gm Eggs 10 to 12 Flour 500 gm Mixed dry fruits and fruit peel 1½ kg (raisins, sultanas, currants, orange peel, candied ginger, figs and apricots) Chopped nuts 400 gm Mixed spice powder 2 tsp (a mix of cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg and caraway seeds) Rum 1 ½ cups + ¼ cup Directions Clean the fruits and nuts, put them into a glass jar and soak them in 1½ cups of rum for at least 6 months. When you are ready to make the cake, cream the butter and sugar. (Either use brown sugar or caramelise the regular sugar prior to mixing to get a lovely brown colour.) Add eggs and beat well. Dredge the fruits with flour so that they do not sink to the bottom while baking. Add the flour, spices and fruit to the creamed mixture and mix well. Prepare your cake tin by double lining it with baking paper at the bottom and sides. Pour the prepared batter into the tin and level the batter using a wet spoon. Bake the cake in a low-heat oven at 150 deg C for 1½ to 2 hours. If the cake starts to turn brown too quickly, cover the tin loosely with foil and continue to bake. When the cake is done, take it out of the oven and remove the foil (if using). While the cake is still hot, pour the ¼ cup of rum over the cake and wrap tightly with a foil. When it is completely cool, peel away the foil and brush the cake with more rum. Store the cake, tightly wrapped, in a box. Use a good cake knife to cut thin slices of the rich fruit cake.

Christmas is a grand affair in the state of Kerala – preparations for the festival begin months in advance, especially for the fruit cake, which forms the centrepiece of the lunch table For many, December is the month of fruit cake and Christmas trees. For those who make their own fruit cake, the process starts almost six to nine months before the festive season actually begins. While the process might be considered tedious to many, there are still a few who religiously bake their own Christmas cake. One must say, however, after tasting a slice of the homemade cake, it is hard to reconcile oneself with the overly sweet brick that parades commercially as ‘Fruit Cake’ or ‘Plum Cake’ as it is more commonly called. Rebecca Matthew has been baking her own fruit cakes for more than 45 years. As Syrian Christians living in Kerala, Christmas was always time for the families to get together and celebrate the spirit of the season. “Most from my community were land owners and had huge paddy fields or estates. Everyone who worked on these estates was a part of the celebration. This was besides the numerous siblings and cousins who always got together at the family home.” The goodie bags always had to be full. Salty tubes of kuzalappams and ‘diamond cuts’ filled the baskets, mounds of different halwas and sweets of all kinds were packed to be distributed to all. However, as the lands were sold and people moved away in search of other professions and to the call of education, Rebecca’s family now meets every Christmas and they re-live the excitement that was once marked the festive season.

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“The day always starts at my home,” says Rebecca. “Mutton stew with aapams and a wheat dish slow cooked with cow’s milk, ghee and sugar gets things going.” Then there is either the traditional black halwa or the carrot halwa (that Rebecca’s family prefers) and, of course, the cake – a chocolate cake, a plain cake and the traditional Christmas cake. Kerala has always been famous for the ‘plum cake’ and Rebecca’s cake is no different. “I pulled the recipe from an old English magazine,” she confesses. For the past four decades, she has made subtle changes to the recipe to make it her own. “I add caramelised sugar instead of brown sugar, and add just enough spices so it stays in the background.” Rum goes in, instead of brandy, to give you a dark, moist and rich fruit cake. Lunch is at another relative’s house where, on the table, is a chicken roast, mutton biryani, fish moilee and pudding, and, of course, more cake. If one is still hungry and can manage another morsel, dinner is light and simple and the family polishes off the leftovers of the heavy lunch. The fruit cake itself can be tightly wrapped and put away, only to be taken out weeks later when you are ready to cut yourself a sliver of the cake and reminisce about the Christmas gone by. Rebecca insists that a good fruit cake must be moist and filled with fruit. “I would never permit tutti-frutti and glace cherries in my cake. The spices used must be subtle and the fruits of a good quality. Never compromise on the quality of the ingredients you use,” she says. “And, if kept tightly wrapped, the cake could easily last you till next Christmas. These days I don’t bake as much,” she adds, “so there is not much left over.” All this, as Rebecca bakes about three batches of her famous fruit cake.

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Feature by Team Culturama

In Sound Company In a country where art is regarded as having originated from the Gods, it is but little wonder that music is celebrated as a reflection of divine grace

illustration: Maniam Selven

December 2014

In a country where art is regarded as having originated from the Gods, it is but little wonder that music is celebrated as a reflection of divine grace as well as a means to propitiate the heavenly beings. India’s music tradition, said to be one of the oldest in the world, is based on raaga (a sequence of notes or keys) and taala (beat, which indicates the rhythm). Essentially a ‘serial’ musical format where the notes follow each other, one sound at a time, Indian music is based on melody, as against the harmonybased music of the West. Just like the seven-note major scale of the Western system, the Indian musical scale also has seven notes or saptaswara, which relate to each other in exactly the same way as their Western counterparts, pitch for pitch. Their longer names are shortened to Sa Re Ga Ma Pa Dha Ni. Some believe that Indian music originated from the Gods, with each of the seven notes having a presiding deity (Sa presided over by God Brahma, Re held by the fire God Agni, and so on). Others expound the theory of natural origin, holding that each note was inspired by the sound of a particular animal or bird (Sa from the peacock, Re from the bull, and so on). However, the most widely accepted theory is that the Indian system of music – both Carnatic (South India) and Hindustani (North India) – originated from the Vedas, the Indian holy scriptures, where the hymns were chanted using three to seven musical notes. Interestingly, Carnatic and Hindustani music are defined by markedly different raagas and taalas. This is most probably a result of the impact of historic interactions between the indigenous and migrating races, as well as the flourishing of certain styles under the reign of benevolent kings. Royal patronage, of course, had a big part to play in the development of dance forms as well – and Indian music and dance, although highly refined art forms in their own right, are also often seen as synergistic components. Folk music is another distinct genre of Indian music, and it too varies from region to region – the structure of the language in which the songs are written and performed plays a big part in the style of music, while themes are generally oriented towards war and heroism, devotion and romance.

Carnatic Music Part of the rich cultural heritage of South India, the Carnatic music is said to have originated in the state of Karnataka. The present form of this tradition of music is said to have been influenced by historic developments of the 15th and 16th centuries. The genre includes songs in all South Indian languages – Kannada, Sanskrit, Tamil and Telugu. The raagas consist of five, six or seven notes in ascending and descending scales. There are 72 melodic combinations or melakarta raagas, and many variations of these, called janya raagas. As with Hindustani music, Carnatic music is melodic, with improvised variations, but tends to have more fixed compositions. Taala (rythm) and pallavi (imaginations) are two important aspects of Carnatic music. Out of the 108 possible taalams (beats), only a few are commonly used. Recitals have their own governing principles. The opening piece is a brisk varnam, followed by an incantation to the Gods; short kritis (songs) are woven into a pattern of raagams and taalams. The main composition will include a raagam, taalam and pallavi, and together they test the performer. During the last part of the recital, the accompanists (the violinist and Photo: Douglas Vanherpe, Belgium

illustration S. Rajam, as featured in Art Heritage of India.

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is the composed form – comprising words, rhythm and refrain. Accompanying the main vocalist(s) at concerts are musicians who play string instruments such as the violin or veena, and percussionists who play the mridangam or ghatam. Instruments such as the veena and mridangam are seen as synonymous with Carnatic music, and exponents of these instruments are regarded as masters in their own right – on par with renowned vocalists themselves.

Hindustani Music

illustration: Maniam Selven

The system of classical music practised in the northern parts of India, known as Hindustani music, is said to have diverged from Carnatic music around the 13th and 14th centuries. This genre mingles traditional Hindu musical concepts with performance techniques favoured in the Persia of yore, which were adopted as a result of the Mughal influence. Like Carnatic music, Hindustani music is based on a system of raagas. Improvisation and elaboration play a major role in this type of music. Hindustani music includes some distinct styles of singing: the ghazal (a lyrical poem with a repeated rhythm set to music, usually on the theme of love), for instance,

percussionists) exhibit their improvisation skills as the music takes on a lighter form. In Carnatic music, there is a central pièce de résistance that showcases the creativity of the performer. It is a sort of three-piece suite, called raagam-thaanam-pallavi. Raagam is the part where the musician chooses a certain scale or raaga, and improvises on it without words, but with free-flowing vowels, without rhythm. It is abstract music; it portrays a certain mood of the raaga. The second component, thaanam, is quasirhythmical. It is not completely free-flowing, but it is not like a song either, confined by rhythm, words, and so on. It is something in between, and has a rhythm-like cadence. The vocalist keeps repeating the syllables like taa, nam, tom and aa in different, highly creative combinations, and puts the listener into a trance-like state. The final component, pallavi,

Masterful Maestros

- There are several contemporary singers who have made their mark on the Indian and global stage for their prowess in Carnatic and Hindustani music. With a burgeoning Indian population overseas, several concerts featuring these musicians are held in the United States, United Kingdom and Europe round the year. - For those looking to get a flavour of Carnatic music, head to Chennai in the months of December and January. Each year, the city comes alive during this month to celebrate the Madras Music Season – a time when large and small concerts, featuring well-known names and upcoming artistes, are organised in the concert halls and temples. Audiences and artistes come from across India and from the international Indian diaspora to be part of the event. - The Tansen Sangeeth Sammelan, held in Gwalior in December each year, is looked forward to by aficionados of Hindustani music. The event is held in memory of Tansen, a renowned musician in the court of Mughal Emperor Akbar. The five-nightlong event will see the coming together of well-known classical singers from across the country.

Coming soon AIKYA 2010 Celebrating the oneness of India by Padma Shri Aruna Sairam.

2015

ONENESS OF INDIA THROUGH MUSIC

AIKYA 2011 Dualities by Padma Shri Sudha Raghunathan & T.M. Krishna.

AIKYA 2012 AIKYA is a series of unique concerts by stalwarts organised by Global Adjustments that promotes the coming together of people through the medium of music. This annual programme (held since 2010) has run to packed audiences, and featured stellar artistes like Aruna Sairam, Sudha Raghunathan, T.M. Krishna, Bombay Jayashri and sister duo Ranjani and Gayatri. Each concert is based on a special theme. The proceeds from the sale of tickets are channelled towards a fund to support retiring accompanying artistes, and to help support the education of young girls.

Best of Bombay Jayashri in a kaleidoscopic concert.

AIKYA 2013

AIKYA 2015, to be held on March 7, 2015, will be a grand affair, with a spectacular theme and song selection.

Resolving human conflict â&#x20AC;&#x201C; inspiration from the Bhagavad Gita by Ranjani & Gayatri.

Watch this space for more details. For sponsorship or other details, please contact Global Adjustments. E-mail Anupama Arvind at anupama@globaladjustments.com or call +91 98416 54816

AIKYA 2014 A Journey of love â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Sikkil Gurucharan & Shweta Mohan

December 2014

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PHOTO: Emma Horne, Britain

and the thumri (a semi-classical vocal style of Hindustani music, mainly expressing the various aspects of love), the dhrupad (an old style of singing, practised mainly in North India by male vocalists, to the accompaniment of instruments such as the tambura and pakhawaj) and the khyal (a form of Hindustani music based on improvisation and expression of emotion, and is now more often rendered than the dhrupad). Some instruments such as the sarod, the sitar and the sarangi are firmly associated with Hindustani music.

Baul singer Parvathy Baul

Folk music India’s folk music is often oriented towards movement and dance, and the boundaries between music and dance, and music and theatre can be blurred. Although it has many forms, India’s folk music is characterised by distinctive rhythmic cycles, the style of which has gone on to influence classical raagas. Lavani is a combination of traditional song and dance popular in Maharashtra, performed to the powerful beats of the dholak, a percussion instrument. The name is said to derive from the word ‘lavanya’, meaning beauty, and the songs are full of passionate sentiment. Lavani is always performed by women. Marathi films have played an important role

in making the genre accessible to mass audiences, and portraying it in a positive light. Light music combines with expressionist poetry on subjects such as love, nature and philosophy in a folk music form called Bhavageete. This is particularly popular in Karnataka, and is said to be related to the ghazals, an expressive form of poetry talking of love and separation. From Bengal comes the devotional music form sung by minstrels known as Bauls. The name is derived from a Sanskrit word meaning ‘divinely inspired insanity’. The minstrels play the ektara, a simple one-stringed instrument, as they sing of the search for spiritual liberation. Perhaps more expressive of the vast range of human emotion and trials are the songs of Rabindranath Tagore, collectively known as Rabindra Sangeet. The repertoire of over 2,000 songs, written and composed by the great Bengali poet who also penned the national anthems of both India and Bangladesh, are regarded as cultural treasures. For these, the Nobel laureate drew on both Indian classical music and traditional folk music as sources. As with all the performing folk traditions of India, folk music draws on the country’s epic narratives. Pandavani, from Orissa and Andhra Pradesh, narrates in song form tales from the Mahabharata. The Muslimdominated Malabar region of Kerala has its own ‘signature tunes’. The mappilapattu is sung in an intermingling of Malayalam and Arabic words, and the tunes too are a charming mixture of native traditions and those of West Asia. The themes are universal – love, God and heroism.

The main illustrations used in this article, by talented artist Maniam Selven, were originally used in ‘Song & Dance: India’ – a coffeetable book published by Global Adjustments.

Tabla: The tabla is an Indian percussion

instrument used in classical, popular and devotional music. The name tabla is derived from an Arabic word, tabl, which means ‘drum’. The tabla comprises two drums – a higher pitched wooden on and a bass one made of metal.

Tanpura: Tanpura (or tampura) is a longnecked plucked lute, a fourstringed unfretted instrument. The name is probably derived from ‘tana’, which means ‘complete’. The characteristic droning sound often heard in India music is from this instrument, which provides a constant reminder of the base pitch of the music.

Harmonium: The harmonium is a small, tabletop-sized organ with bellows pumped with one hand while the other hand plays the keyboard. The British introduced harmoniums to North India, but it is now widely used in all forms of Indian music.

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December 2014

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Look Who’s In Town New Delhi

Playtime in Delhi Caroline Pool from The Netherlands does A round-up of the capital’s child friendly spots

A mother of two small boys, Caroline Pool found Delhi to be exciting, yet daunting, when she landed there 10 months ago. Originally from the Netherlands, she remembers “the busy streets, people everywhere, the colours and the smells”. Today, Caroline is a proud Delhi-ite. “New Delhi, with all its green areas, beautiful architecture and historical sites, is now our home, although a temporary one.” The city has grown on her children as well. “When my mother was visiting, she found the avenues in Delhi to be nice and broad. My older son explained to her that they needed to be large enough to fit in cars, tuk-tuks, bicycles and the elephants!”

The Delhi Difference In the Netherlands, the primary entertainment option for children is playing outside – this is something we did a lot with our two boys. So, we were often in our garden or in the park in front of our house playing in the sandbox, riding bicycles and playing in the playground. I found New Delhi to be very different. It is not so easy for my boys to ride their bicycles in the streets. Also, the summer temperatures are so high that we did not go out much during those months.

In the Netherlands, it is totally the other way around – summer is the time of year to get outside as much as you can!

Child friendly spaces in Delhi • Bicycle riding in Lodhi Gardens is a great outdoor activity for children. It is best in the mornings, as it is not so busy then. • New Delhi Zoo is a must-visit option, but do remember that it is closed on Fridays. • Our children’s school has a good playground, which we can also use over the weekends. So, you could check if that option is available in other schools as well.

When in the Netherlands • Visit the Blijdorp zoo in Rotterdam. • Go to the beach in Scheveningen in the summer months • Visit a kinderboerderij (a children’s farm) where kids can get to meet and see all sorts of farm animals. They can also pet them and help the farmer feed the animals.

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December 2014

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Look Who’s In Town Mumbai

Mumbai Snapshots Canadian Megan Bond and her camera are inseparable companions in the bustling city of Mumbai

A photographer’s dream is what Megan Bond calls India, although the dream did come true along with “an assault on the senses” and “overwhelming chaos”. Over the year she has lived in Mumbai, the Canadian has found the city to be an intriguing mix of religions, rituals and routines – and one that surprises her with its diversity. She never leaves home without her camera. “I know I will capture something interesting among all the hustle and bustle. A photo eliminates the distractions so one can really focus on the story behind the shot.” Canada, she admits, “offers beautiful landscapes”, but India is more about its people. She remembers her first visit to a national park: “Some strangers asked me to take a photo, which wasn’t an unusual request. I reached out my hand to take the camera but, instead, he passed it to a friend. As he scooted over next to me, I realised he did not want me to take a photo but wanted to take a photo with me. I couldn’t help but feel odd about being surrounded by people I didn’t know – while someone quickly snapped a photo of us like we are lifelong friends!”

Photo Trails The Sanjay Gandhi National Park is a great place to photograph nature and people, especially during the monsoon season. The rains revive the lush and green surroundings and bring back the flowing waterfalls. A photo-walk in South Mumbai is essential. The old colonial buildings, cobbled sidewalks, and large banyan trees make this area ideal for photographing iconic Mumbai. Snap some photos while

strolling along the streets amongst the booksellers, cane juice wallahs. Some of my favourite shots were taken during the festive seasons in Mumbai. The colour and revelry cannot be missed, especially during Krishna Janmashtami and Ganesh Chaturthi in late August and early September.

Shutterbug Tips • Make it a habit to carry your camera with you. Mumbai is full of the unexpected and you will want to capture in a photo what you cannot explain in words. • Own a telephoto lens so that you can shoot a moment of ‘real Mumbai’ without intruding. • When taking photos of people, show them the shot – that always brings a smile to their faces. Do not be afraid to carry your camera in your hand when in public.

When in Canada Canada has extreme temperatures, so be sure to prepare for the condensation that will form on the lens. The mountains, lakes and wildlife make the West a prime place to visit. Another great place for photography is Quebec City. As one of Canada’s oldest cities, it has the architecture and charm of an old European city. Toronto’s neighbourhoods offer unique character and they hold interesting events throughout the year.

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December 2014

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At Global Adjustments Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition 2014

Smile India, you're on camera! It was a global children’s day indeed at the awards ceremony of the Beautiful India Expatriate Photo competition, which was held recently at the Hyatt Regency, Chennai. The event was centred on the theme of ‘Global Children’ (which was one of the categories in the photo competition) and included performances by a mix of expatriate and Indian children. When the judges for the competition, Bharat Joshi, the British Deputy High Commissioner, and actor Radikaa Sarathkumar were asked to choose their picks from the 600 photo entries, they both said that it was a very difficult task. The entries were classified according to the given categories of ‘Places’, ‘Faces’, ‘Culture & Festivals’, ‘Into India’ and ‘Global Children’. Awards were given to the top three winning entries from each category at the ceremony, while the specially commended photographs got special prizes. The display of photographs, shot by expatriates from 16 countries, presented a well-rounded perspective of the best sides of India’s beautiful places, people and culture. Celebrating sixteen years of the Photo Competition, Global Adjustments also launched a limited edition coffee table book - From India, With Love - that was unveiled by Radikaa Sarathkumar and Bharat Joshi.

The awards ceremony was enlivened by dance performances by children, who did a dandiya dance. For the grand finale, the audience was invited to shake a leg to a lively Hindi number – which they did with gusto.

What the audience said: “Thank you for a fantastic event! We had a great time! It can be seen that a lot of effort went into this worthwhile event. The gallery of photos was such a highlight, and a great insight into parts of India we have yet to explore.” - Karla Kivlehan, UK “We really enjoyed the event. It was great to meet so many other expats, from so many countries, and to see all the beautiful photos. We came away with some super prizes and some new friends!” - Helen Taylor, UK “We loved the event and the cultural programmes. Our son Niccolò danced in the event and enjoyed it very much. This event will be part of our beautiful India memories that we will take back home.” - Simona Matuonto and Sergio Diaz, Italy

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Snapshopts: 1. A look at the different facets of India; 2. Watching the programme in rapt attention; 3 & 4. Global children dance to lively tunes; 5, 6 & 7. Prizes being given away by Radikaa Sarathkumar (actor) and Bharat Joshi (British Deputy High Commissioner), Ajay Shankar (MD, Caterpillar Inc.), and Dr. Mariazeena Johnson (MD, Sathyabama University) respectively; 8. Launch of coffeetable book, From India, With Love.

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And the winners are... 'High court Chennai' Category : Places Photo: Armando Bruck, Brazil

'Riding the red auto' Category : Global Children Photo: Anna Bozzi, Italy

'It is written' Category : Into India Photo: J.F. Vial, France

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'A flower seller' Category : Faces Photo: Melissa Freitas, Brazil

'There is always room for more' Category : Humour Photo: Helle Stromholt, Denmark

'Mylapore Temple Festival' Category : Culture & Festivals Photo: Armando Bruck, Brazil

'Traditional house in Jaisalmer' Category : Crowd's Favourite Photo: Manfred Zink, Germany

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India Impressions by Pradeep Chakravarthy

Cultural Lifelines Temples in India are outstanding works of art and architecture – sadly, however, most books on temples tend to be scholarly or focus on their mythological origins. Very few help the visitor to understand the context of the temple as an institution and how it has served the community around it. The following extract, from Road Less Travelled by historian Pradeep Chakravarthy, addresses some of these aspects. Driving to Pudukottai from Madurai to attend a marriage recently, it was hard not to be captivated by the small but impressive fort on the side of the road above the village of Tirumeyyam. The wedding in Pudukottai would not wait and promising myself that we would come back the same way, I had a quick glance at the fort as we went on. The sumptuous food needed to be burned off and what better way to do it than climb the hill? Fortunately, as I came back, the sun was obscured by a few rain clouds and a cool breeze had sprung up. The azure sky was a lovely contrast to the dusty grey and brown of the rocky terrain and the three concentric fort walls. “Which way to the temple?” The answer to this was another question! “Siva or Perumal Koil? Both are famous.” It was the village elder resting on a huge block of stone that must have been a part of the fort’s wall. I had heard of the Perumal Koil. It was one of the 108 temples sung by the azhwars. But an equally famous Siva temple was news to me. I had to see both these temples and climb up the fort as well in a few hours. The village has only around 20,000 inhabitants and the two temples are adjacent to each other. The fort

Exquisite detailing is a hallmark of the temples At Thirumeyyam in Tamil Nadu. Photos: Bhushavali (http://travel.bhushavali.com)

called ‘Oomayan Kottai’ was, I had been told, built by the Ramanathapuram Sethupathi in the 1680s. The temples should be just as old, I thought as I entered the Sathiamoorthy or Perumal temple. We paused to admire the stern-looking sculptures frozen in formal poses but decorated with jewels in amazing detail that only the Nayaks could master. These were sculptures of warriors with fantastically sharp nails kidnapping a princess and a lady with a basket that looked like the real thing frozen in stone. The light from the courtyard glinted off the small pieces of mirror inset on the intricately carved Garuda Vahana that had been consigned to the corner presumably after the temple had got an uglier, newer version. Passing on to the main hall of the temple with rows of sculptures with beautiful bas-reliefs, I sat for a few minutes near the Dasavathara shrine under the shadow of a huge, very new looking and rather ferocious Hanuman. The Uyya Vandha Thayar shrine was framed with many bangles and cradles hung from the door lintel in fulfilment of vows, on the birth of a child or the performance of a long-awaited wedding. In the main shrine, Lord Sathiamoorthy stands between the life-size images of Garuda and a king with Sathya

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The temple is run by the Pudukottai Rajah’s trust with generous contribution from the Chettiar community.

Rishi and his wife kneeling in front. I folded my hands in reverential worship, for Tirumangai Azhwar says: The deep ocean’s colour is his; so also the rain cloud, The lotus and the Kaya blossom, those are his colours too. The conch bearer resides in Tirumeyyam; Those who don’t worship him with folded arms, Have no arms and we know that for sure! (Peria Tirumozhi, 11.7.5) I expected to hear the usual story of penury but was pleasantly surprised. The temple is run by the Pudukottai Rajah’s trust with generous contribution from the Chettiar community. Given the wealth of sculptures and setting, the ASI too has boards, which do not say anything about why the temple is important, but warns vandals of dire consequences! On the steps was an old lady reciting verses of the Tevaram. The words ran into one another and she had to pause often to catch her breath, but the tune was captivating. The Tirumeyyam inscriptions had been translated as far back as in the 1880s. The important and longest one is dated May 7, 1245, in the reign of Sundara Pandya II. It records the agreement reached between Vishnu and Siva worshippers in a long-standing feud. Done in the presence of an erstwhile Hoysala army chief, the clauses rival those of a modern legal contract for their comprehensiveness. The two parties, in the presence of various officials from surrounding villages, agreed that two-fifths of the ‘Kadamai’ would go to the Siva temple and the rest to the Vishnu temple. The bulk of the inscription speaks of the mutual exchange of lands, sharing of tanks, habitation and the demarcation of boundaries and the construction of a compound wall. Not only was a referee appointed but an exact copy was engraved in the other temple as well with the names of all attendees. This contract

was considered so important that an earlier seventh century Pallava inscription (copied from Kudumiamalai) spoke of the ‘Parivadini’ musical instrument and of musical notations that were partially erased. Quickly going round the temple, I reached the steps that led up to the hill, paid a meagre entrance fee and climbed up. The hill is small but the rocks, the few trees and the fairly intact walls of the fort and the overcast sky made a striking picture. I took a detour and climbed the narrow iron ladder up to a cave with a lingam and then to the top of the hill that had an old British cannon at its summit. The view of the countryside was breathtaking, probably unchanged for the past few centuries. The rows of palm trees juxtaposed against the distant blue mountain were a balm to the tired traveller’s eyes. A light drizzle forced me to retreat to a sheltered spot. Eating a quick snack under the shade of an overhanging boulder, I waited for the drizzle to cease. I thought of the charged atmosphere that the rocks and walls would have been mute witness to when the freedom fighter Veerapandiya Kattabomman’ s brother Oomaithurai was put to death by the British forces. Today, the walls overlook the roads to Madurai and Pudukottai and acres of arid land. I lingered for a few more minutes until the keeper hurried me to come down, as the premises close by 5.30 p.m. The evening was well-spent – a glimpse into our history, of which archaeology and temples are important facets.

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December Calendar of events

Presenting the best of India’s events in different categories across Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai and nearby suburbs

Art & Exhibitions

Exhibition of Serigraphs Delhi

Art from the Himalayas Mumbai

Art Alive Gallery will host an exhibition of limited edition serigraphs, reproductions and lithographs of India’s most well-known artists. The artists include Jamini Roy, M.F. Husain, S.H. Raza, Manjit Bawa, Sakti Burman and more. Call +91 1141639000 for more details.

Renowned artist Roshan Sabavala will display his work ‘Art of the Himalayas’ from his vast collection. There will also be an illustrated lecture by Dr. Pratapaditya Pal, internationally known scholar of Himalayan Arts. Select pieces will be auctioned at Jamshed Bhabha Theatre, NCPA, Nariman Point, while others will be available for viewing. Call +91 9819691101 for more details.

Date: November 14 to December 20 Venue: Art Alive Gallery, S-221, Panchsheel Park, New Delhi Time: 1100h to 1900h

Date: December 11 to 16 Venue: Tanna House, Ground floor, 11/A, Nathalal Parekh Marg, Colaba, Mumbai Time: 1030h to 1930h

Exhibition of Contemporary Art Prakrit Arts presents ‘Tale of two cities – Varanasi & Venice’, an exhibition of contemporary art by artist Krishnendu Porel, who has also held shows in Singapore, California and New York. Date: November 27 to Dec 10 Venue: Prakrit Art Gallery, Greenways Road, Chennai Time: 1100h to 1900h

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December 2014

Events

Arpana: An exhibition of Photographs

Chinese Theatre Festival Mumbai and Delhi

The defining moments when the artiste and art merge into seamless mastery, captured through the eyes of a rasika or admirer. Arpana, a photo tribute by Bhargavii Mani, captures the many moods of the artist through a series of photographs. None of the subjects were made to pose â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with the end result being influenced by the mood of the artiste while rapt in their performance.

Bravia Capital Sadir Theatre Festival presents the Indian premier of the highly acclaimed Chinese Kungu opera, The Peony Pavilion. The play is the oldest and most refined styles of traditional Chinese theatre and is a renowned masterpiece of the Ming dynasty. It is a classic love story that traces the last days of the Southern Song Dynasty.

Date: December 22 to 28 Location: Lalit Kala Academy, Greams Road, Chennai Time: 1100h to 1900h

Date: December 9 (Mumbai) and December 12 (Delhi) Venue: NCPA, Nariman Point, Mumbai/Siri Fort Auditorium, Delhi Time: 1900h

German Christmas Market Delhi The German Christmas Market is an annual event that is in its 17th year this time. The highlights for this year are a gingerbread house, traditional German Christmas food, magic shows and a live band. Over 95 exhibitors will be showcasing Christmas decorations, home accessories and more. Date: December 6 and 7 Venue: German House, 2 Nyaya Marg, Chankyapuri, Delhi Time: 1100h

Fusion Music Concert Bengaluru Rock band Indian Ocean and classical singer Shubha Mudgal will present a fusion music concert in support of India Foundation for the Arts. While Indian Ocean integrates

December 2014

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classical rock, jazz and fusion, Shubha Mudgal is a trained classical singer. They will come together on the same stage to celebrate the Foundation’s 20th year. Date: December 11 Venue: Chowdiah Memorial Hall, Malleswaram, Bengaluru Time: 1930h

Christmas Pantomime Chennai The annual Christmas Pantomime of the Little Theatre will be based on the tale of Cinderella. The much-awaited event is a combination of songs, slapstick comedy and dancing by a combination of adults and child actors. The audience is encouraged to sing along certain parts of the songs and chat with performers. This year, the pantomime is in its 20th year. Date: Dec 4 to 10 Venue: Musuem Theatre, Egmore, Chennai Time: 1800h

Open Air Music Concerts Bengaluru ‘Alive India in Concerts’ is an initiative to revive open-air live music concerts, with artistes from different styles coming together on one platform. The third season is spread over four weekends, and will bring together 14 concerts, 14 artistes and musicians. Tickets will be available at the venue. Date: November 22 to January 20 Venue: Phoenix Market City, Whitefield Road, Bengaluru

Musical movie launch Chennai In the 20th century, the practice of art moved from temples and royal precints to the urban concert stage. Agazh films present a musical movie with Carnatic vocalist TM Krishna singing in the green hill of Nilgiris. The movie – ‘One’ – is an attempt to set the artiste and the listener free from the rigid concert format imposed by times. In this musical treat, the listener is transported to the world of the singer, who explores his music amidst nature. Visit www.onewithmusic.in for more details. Date: December 5 Venue: Sathyam Cinemas, Chennai

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December 2014

Spotlight by Team Culturama

Music and Dance season In the months of December and January, the southern ‘culture capital’, Chennai, plays host to a series of music and dance festivals. Cultural clubs, known as sabhas, vie with one another to put up performance schedules that feature the most number of leading artistes. We give you the insider’s guide on where to go to get a glimpse of the best.

Chennai’s leading concert locations: • Kalakshetra Foundation: An acclaimed residential centre for music and dance that provides holistic education too, the Foundation hosts an annual December music, dance and drama festival. Call +91 44 24524057 for more details. • The Music Academy: A landmark institution in the field of music and dance, the Music Academy’s annual concerts set the bar really high for the rest. Leading names and up-coming artistes are picked to be part of the packed schedule of concerts here. Call +91 44 28112231 for more details. • Mylapore Fine Arts Club: The 65-year-old club is the go-to name for music, dance and drama lovers of the city. The Club has played a key role in promoting tradition art and culture through the years, and continues to be a much sought after performance arena for artistes. Call +91 44 24997755 for more details. • Narada Gana Sabha: Located in the heart of the city, this sabha is well frequented for the ample parking space it provides and the delicious food that is served in its canteens during the concert. For more details of the sabhas and their schedules, visit www.kutcheribuzz.com.

Editor’s Note: The music season is a more relaxed experience than Western formal classical music, so here are a few dos and don’ts: • Do book your tickets in advance – in some cases, tickets are sold at the venue. • Do stay as long as you can and take a side seat if you need to slip out as performances can last up to three hours. • Do catch a few end-pieces of performances as they often have the best numbers. Don’t hesitate to keep ‘taalam’ or rhythm by beating your palms on your thighs rhythmically to show appreciation. (Visit http://tinyurl.com/cfxqvl4 to watch how one form of the taalam is done.) • Don’t expect too many English explanations – savour the experience as it unfolds. • Do eat lunch at one of the sabhas on traditional banana leaves.

Brush up on your December Season lingo! Sabha:

An assembly or gathering, in this case of music lovers, promoting music, dance or art

Kutcheri: Vocal performance or concert of classical music Ragam:

The scale or set of notes that form the musical composition

Alapanai: Explanation of the notes used in the song that is to be sung Mudras:

Hand symbols used to convey some expressions

Abhinayas: Facial expressions that show emotions Saapadu: The traditional South Indian meal that is served on a banana leaf Tiffin:

A snack or an in-between meal like dosas or idlis, varieties of tiffin are served

December 2014

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CULTURAMA’s Festive Season

Gift Catalogue Culturama presents a guide to finding the perfect gift for the festive season. We bring together gifting ideas from across categories in this exclusive listing FO OD

Sunday Brunch Relax at the Moon and Sixpence, over an elaborate Irish brunch. The five-course meal, together with a live acoustic band, is bound to set the mood for a perfect day. At: Moon and Sixpence, No.19, Grand Southern Trunk Rd, Guindy, Chennai Tel: +91 44 2233 4000 www.hablis.com

From Europe, with Love Experience the best of European gastronomy at ‘Basil with a Twist’. From their signature Caesar salads that keep those midweek blues at bay, to the classic ‘Tapenade & goat cheese bruchetta’, this restaurant has it all – with a twist. At: Basil With a Twist, 58 Habibullah Road, T Nagar Tel: +91 44 42 613613 www.facebook.com/BASILWITHATWIST

Food for every Mood This festive season, gift your friends classic goody bags. Stuffed turkey’s, complete dinners, celebrate with L’amandier’s gift hampers. At: L’amandier, R A Puram, Chennai Tel: +91 44 42827882

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December 2014

J EWELLERY Silver Style Jazz up any outfit with these gorgeous earrings – nothing says grandeur more than these semiprecious stones are arranged in a beautiful floral pattern on a base of gold-plated silver.

Price: On Request At: Chamiers, No.106, Chamiers Road, Chennai – 600 028 Tel: +91 44 2431 1495 www.chamiershop.com

Pendant Magic Inspired by nature’s bounty, these stunning pendants been designed by master craftsmen with utmost attention to detail. Intricate craftsmanship and the finest diamonds come together in a dazzling symphony to create these exquisite masterpieces. Price: On Request At: Mehta Jewellery, Chennai www.mehtajewellery.com

Wired Art The art of twisting wire to make jewellery, indigenous to East India, gives strength to the pieces, but it is lightweight and easy on the ears. These stunning handcrafted hook type jhumkis in 18k gold are embellished with pear-cut emeralds. Price: On Request At: Gehna, 5/33, 13th Avenue, Harrington Road, Chetpet, Chennai - 600031. Tel: +91 44 28363602 / +91 9840702969

Bead it Up Fine Italian pumpkin coral beads are teamed with tumbled sapphire beads in the elegant earring. The beads are accentuated with 18k gold studded with diamond spacers to give it a sparkling look.

Price: On Request At: Sultan Gems, 57, TTK Road, Chennai – 600 018. Tel: +91 44 42107122 www.sultanjewels.com

Hand-Cuffed Emeralds and diamonds come together in this striking cuff from Amrapali. The uncut and rose-cut diamonds are set in 18k gold and silver, ideal to lend an understated dazzle to your evening.

Price: On Request At: Amethyst, Whites Road, Royapettah, Chennai – 600 014. Tel: +91 44 45991630 www.amethystchennai.com

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ACCESSORIES

Wrap it Up Brighten up your wardrobe with a vibrant array of stoles and scarves from Shilpi. The stoles come in a wide range of colours and textures – tussar, silk, crepe, wool and silk-wool – in the best of block prints, embroideries and weaves. Price: On Request At: Shilpi stores in Chennai (Alwarpet, Besant Nagar and Nungambakkam) Tel: +91 44 24997526

Charms Galore Handcrafted in sterling silver with semi-precious stones, the silver ‘Masala Charms’ from Fourseven are little handcrafted treasures. The charms, strung on bracelets and necklaces, encapsulate the unique beauty and culture of India. Price: Rs.500 onwards Tel: +91 8470014747 | www.fourseven.in

Bag It These exclusive bags from Ruze, a delightful mix of ethnic and contemporary elements, are a perfect gift for a fashionista. The Swarovski crystal souvenir bags are a subtle style statement in itself. Price: On Request At: Ruze, Taj Vivanta Connemara, Chennai. Tel: +91 44 6600 1651 www.ruze.in

Everyday Essentials These colourful wallets can brighten up the day. With their beautiful designs that serve to enhance the style quotient of any outfit, they are an ideal gift for that special friend.

Price: Rs.1,200 onwards www.indiacircus.com

Buttonwood Attaché Make your first impression the best one with this exquisite attaché case. Designed with genuine Buff Oscar leather, with soft cow nubuck lining on the inside, this sleek briefcase neatly packs in all your documents, iPad or tablet and a smart phone. Price: Rs. 9,500 At: Viari, No.1, Dr. Radhakrishnan Salai, 4th Street, Mylapore, Chennai 600004. www.viari.in

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December 2014

Art Beat Art buffs would love Sarala’s Art Centre – a leading name for paintings and sculptures from Indian artists. The gallery has a vast range of art pieces from established artists as well as upcoming young talent. The ideal place to pick up your next conversation piece.

Memories Forever The Fujifilm Instax-Mini 8 camera is the perfect companion for those special moments. With this special Polaroid camera, shooting and printing pictures is a cinch – and makes it easy to look back at that memorable moment with ease.

Price: On Request At: Art World, Teynampet, Chennai Tel: +91 44 2433 8691 www.artworldindia.com

Price: Rs. 6164 Tel: +91 8939828124 www.fujifilm.in

The Great Escape Rest, relax and rejuvenate body and soul – take a break from urban surrounds and head for that perfect escape at Anantya Resorts in Travancore. Spas, treks, swim, walks, there a lot to do – or not do at all! Gift a getaway to loved ones – or even yourself! Price: On Request At: Anantya Resorts & Hotels Pvt. Ltd. Tel: +91 44 28232013 E-mail: info@anantyaresorts.com

Top-to-Toe Wellness A couple of hours of indulgence is an ideal gift for your loved ones. Pick up gift voucher for a relaxing spa experience that uses Chinese foot reflexology method, based on the five elements of the human body, or a dpeppermint/lavender scalp soother. Price: On Request At: Oryza spa, Chennai & Bengaluru Tel: Chennai: +91 44 4211 0940 | Bengaluru: +91 80 41328321 www.oryzadayspa.com

December 2014

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Seeing India by Yamini Vasudevan

Old World Wonder

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December 2014

Kashi Art Cafe is one of the boutique cafes that dot the landscape of Fort Kochi; the clock tower of the Jew synagogue. Photos: All photos by the author.

If you are looking at a weekend getaway in a place that offers a mix of shopping, nature and history in a quaint, relaxed setting, Fort Kochi may be a good choice

Its first point of fame may be the Kochi Muziris Biennale Art Fest, which has drawn art aficionados since 2010, but Fort Kochi is also a popular choice for a getaway. There are some heritage sites, a smattering of hip cafes and stylish boutiques, quaint roads to take long walks on, and the option of a boat ride on the backwaters. When my friend and I firmed up plans for a three-day getaway, our focus was on shopping and sightseeing. We flew in to Cochin sin the late afternoon, and set off for the Tea Bungalow, our home for the long weekend. The broad roads and multitude of traffic gave way to narrow roads flanked by quaint houses and boutique hotels. Kochi has a chequered history – the Portuguese were ‘granted’ the fishing village in 1503 by the Rajah of Kochi; the Dutch captured the territory in 1683; and, in 1795, the British took control. The influences of all three periods are seen in the buildings that line the streets, and structures such as the St. Francis Church and Dutch Palace. The Chinese fishing nets, subject of many a picturesque postcard, are believed to have been introduced by Chinese traders in the early 14th century. In the afternoon, we headed out to see the fishing nets – and were told that it was “walking distance” from our hotel. Walking distance, yes, but not when faced with the first signs

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The Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica

Kochi has a chequered history – with the Portuguese, Dutch and British ruling over it at different points.The influences of all three periods are seen in the buildings that line the streets and structures such as the St. Francis Church

of a heavy downpour. With no umbrellas in hand, we had to duck into a shop selling handicrafts. We pretended to admire the embroidered letter holders and purses made from coconut shell, but found them cliché. We stepped out and waited under the awning of the shop until an auto came along, then set off for the nets. The trip proved futile – the rain continued to patter down, and the dark clouds made it difficult to see anything. So, we decided to go shopping. The heart of Fort Kochi – a set of parallel roads – is where all the worthy shops and restaurants are located. Weather and circumstances permitting, the best way to explore this part is on foot – you can drop in and out of stores, or stretch your legs at a café. Boutiques such as Anokhi, Playclan, Cinnamon and Neemrana Hotel’s in-house store offer a good range of clothes, accessories, décor items and pop art-inspired pieces. There is also Tribal Arts of India, a government-run initiative, which sells jewellery, paintings and décor items. A couple of hours of idyllic retail therapy, and we left with a few paper bags stuffed with handbags, scarves and a set of coffee mugs. By this time, it was pouring cats and dogs. We went to Teapot Café – a quaint, old-world restaurant that is a well-known fixture in this place, it offers Western food, desserts and, of course, tea. The main element of décor is – you guessed it – teapots of all sizes and colours. I longingly fingered a black metal teapot and a porcelain one with pink flowers on it, but was told that none of them were for sale. So, we had to settle for cinnamon tea, orange cake and vegetarian rarebit. At around 6.30 the next morning, we went to the see the Chinese fishing nets. The place was fairly deserted, and most of the makeshift shops in the vicinity were closed. The men who were working the cantilevered nets ignored us; a couple of men who were sitting nearby and reading newspapers shouted out suggestions of how we could get the perfect picture. We watched the rhythmic movement of the nets for a while, and then walked to the St. Francis Church. Originally built in 1503, the St. Francis Church is the oldest European church in India and has a special place in history – the body of Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama, who died in Kochi in 1524 when he was on his third visit to India, was originally buried in this church. After 14 years, his remains were removed to Lisbon. Unfortunately, the church was closed, and, after an hour of waiting around, we decided to leave. To make up for the disappointment, we stopped at the Santa Cruz Cathedral Basilica. The cathedral was open, but empty. A series of scenes from the life of Jesus, which was painted on the ceiling arrested my attention, but I was happier sitting at the wooden pews and revelling in the deep silence. I attempted a prayer, but words seemed superfluous.

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December 2014

The Chinese fishing nets - subject of many a picture postcard

Lunch was at Malabar House – a choice recommended by some travel bloggers (another pick was Kashi Art Café, which we reserved for our last day). Malabar House is an elegant hotel with a small but tastefully furnished restaurant. I chose the prawn biryani – a fitting choice for a coastal town – and lemonade. I was ravenous by the time the food arrived, and relished the mildly spiced rice and succulent prawns. The yoghurt and fried papad, served as accompaniments, made it a good meal. The next day, we went to neighbouring Mattanchery to see the Jew synagogue, Spice Street and Dutch Palace. The synagogue is a surviving representation of the community’s presence in these parts. A small room attached to the synagogue has a series of paintings (with accompanying captions) that depict the arrival of Jews from Israel and their settling down in Kochi. The main place of worship is a room with a pulpit, a special screen and chairs and benches all around. There was a forlorn air about the place, despite the caretaker’s assurance that services are conducted on a regular basis. At the Dutch Palace, we were greeted by another tale of decline. As palaces go, this is more of a large bungalow where the Rajah of Kochi lived. The few pieces of jewellery,

ceremonial turbans and relics on display were faded and tattered, and signalled that the ‘rajah’ was more a chieftain than a monarch. Several walls had been used as canvases for Kerala-style murals, but most of them had fallen prey to mildew and decay – a pity, as the surviving patches were excellent examples of the intricate art form. Later, in Jew Town, we picked up a postcard from a street-side seller who claimed it was a reprint of a mural in the Dutch Palace. At ten rupees, it was a worthy souvenir, although the veracity of the claim was in doubt. The road from the synagogue to the Dutch Palace is lined with shops. One had pinned crocheted doilies on the display window; Kashmiri salesmen tried to convince us to buy a pashmina shawl or silver jewellery; a mannequin wore the gold-and-white sari that is synonymous with this region. The overwhelming majority of shops sell antiques, furniture and decor items – brass lamps, carved bull heads, wooden boats and paintings. Many of the shops wore a deserted look, but I was told by my friend that export was the traders’ mainstay. Many of the shops, in their eagerness to prove that they dealt in ‘genuine’ antiques, kept a layer of dust on many pieces. A reproduction of a mural painting and a painted bull head were my souvenir picks.

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Spices can be bought in bulk or as assorted packages; antiques and wooden bull heads are some of the items on sale in Jew Street.

On seeing the large glass jars and gunny sacks overflowing with cinnamon, star anise, cardamom, pepper and nutmeg in Spice Street, I was reminded of how Kerala had played a major role in the maritime spice trade – after all, pepper was nicknamed ‘black gold’ and wars were fought over this innocent-looking but fiery spice. I picked up individual measures of nutmeg, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon, but there are assorted packs available for those who want a better mix. Our last meal in Fort Kochi was at Kashi Art Café – a restaurant where art installations, conversation and food come together. Sunlight and a bit of greenery peeked in through a skylight; a sculpture consisting of vertical line of heads was a silent observer; the clatter of forks and knives on china felt like a custom background score. We ate, talked and sat in companionable silence. We were to leave for the airport in an hour, but we weren’t saying goodbye. We were checking out of Fort Kochi, but we weren’t leaving just yet.

A Question of Artitude The Kochi-Muziris Biennale is an international exhibition of contemporary art held in Kochi, Kerala. The first Biennale was held in 2010. The shows were held in existing galleries and halls, and site-specific installations in public spaces, heritage buildings and disused structures. Indian and international artists exhibits artworks across a variety of mediums including film, installation, painting, sculpture, new media and performance art. Through the celebration of contemporary art from around the world, The Kochi-Muziris Biennale seeks to invoke the historic cosmopolitan legacy of the modern metropolis of Kochi, and its mythical predecessor, the ancient port of Muziris. The 2014 Biennale starts on December 12, 2014. Visit http://kochimuzirisbiennale.org/ for more details.

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December 2014

Advertiser's Feature

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December 2014

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Seeing India by Devanshi Mody

Say a Little

Prayer

It may be best known for the Jagannath temple in Puri, but Bhubhaneshwar is a treasure trove of temples that exhibit a mastery of sculpture and architecture unmatched by others in the subcontinent Think Odisha, think Jagannath Puri. It would seem this one temple stands as a monolith of sanctity. Most Indians go to Bhubhaneshwar only to visit Jagannath Puri, to fulfill their vows. I must confess I am not much better – in the heat of the last Cricket World Cup final, I vowed to undertake multiple pilgrimages if India won the Cup. And these pilgrimages included a visit to Puri. Yet, little-known to most, the ‘temple town’ of Bubhaneshwar is a cultural treasure trove. Samir, my brother, and I arrived in Bhubhaneshwar. The mission was Puri. However, we had been intimated of the grandeur of Konark. It was certainly no ‘destination’ temple, such as the much-touted Khajuraho or the four great Chola temples of Tamil Nadu. It does not help that Oriya tour operators can be exasperatingly lackadaisical and apathetic about promoting their heritage. Luckily, a friend in Kolkata had tipped us off about a travel agent, who helped chart out an itinerary that included a series of sites that seemed un-missable. Perforce, the voyage would begin with Puri, but before that, we visit to the nearby ocean where salt-water dolphins stitched in and out of the water like long, fat needles. We were also meant to see the river empty itself into the ocean but the boatman deliberately stretched the tour, clearly seeking overtime, so we aborted the venture and headed to the

legendary Jagannath Puri, from whose sheer magnitude the word ‘juggernaut’ was derived. This colossus is a living temple and strictly for devotees, although its stratospheric tower sears the skies for all to see. Then to Konark. We had an inkling of what to expect. The preconceptions we had actually accentuated our ultimate reaction. Konark staggers. The 1,000-year-old UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of India’s only two edifices consecrated to the sun – the other being the extremely lovely but much humbler Sun Temple in Gujarat. Stupendously, spectacularly, in the form of a sun chariot, pulsating with pillars draped and facades dressed in the most intricate sculptures, carvings of bewildering, bewitching beauty and soaring sculptures whose dimensions overwhelm, Konark is amongst the most astounding structures. Stone acquires life as, chiselled with insuperable delicacy, damsels dance. Time has stopped at Konark. So too should the beholder stop, take time, imbibe, perambulate the site, scale its several stairs, cower below towering figures of beasts, linger at the myriad minuscule details of exquisiteness and finesse. I felt like weeping before such excruciating perfection, but the sublime sentiment came crashing down with the giggling of guides and tourists confronted with some naughty depictions from the Kama Sutra.

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Muktesvara temple in Bhubaneswar. Photos: All photos by Samir Mody

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Intricacate carvings are a hallmark of the temples in Odisha.

Konark consumes a half-day to absorb adequately. Then again, perhaps a lifetime is not adequate. Such architectural ingenuity demands it. Indeed, engineer pilgrimages to Puri and business in Bhubhaneshwar just to visit Konark. Otherwise, there is no excuse not to visit in December when, annually, the mighty temple hosts the Konark Festival. The temple, whose stones sing and dance all year as the graceful carvings of dancers and musicians seemingly lilt and swing and sway, becomes a spectator for five nights in the soft wintry eves of early December (1—5 of the month). The venue turns into a stage upon which the nation’s eminent classical dancers and musicians descend on Konark. The setting is dramatic, the enactments no less. Whilst Konark is insuperable in stature and architecture, Bhubhaneshwar abounds with other artistic gems – 150 (at least). What they lack in magnificence of scale, they wow with the subtlest of artistry. Lingaraj, an ancient architectural marvel infused with a medley of styles – Persian, Greek, Oriental and seemingly European flashes is another living temple and therefore inaccessible to tourists. They refuse to believe that my brother and I are of Indian origin and our foreign passports do not help. We resort to using the Overseas Citizen of India card. The effort is worthwhile – this 11th century architectural wonder is classed amongst the finest temples of India. With its advent, Oriya temple-building style attained its mature phase, and Lingaraj became the prototype for architects to follow. Originally a Siva temple, it metamorphosed into one devoted to both Siva and Vishnu. With an astonishing concentration of small constructions ranging from the 11th to 15th centuries, the temple enshrines the Saiva, Vaishnava and Sakta faiths and is said to have thereby harmonised the city’s religious life. Countless other delightful temples around the town entice. A must-visit is the beauteous little 10th century

Muktesvara Temple, which is hailed as a masterpiece of Oriya architecture. Stone curves and curls corrugate into flying sphinxes, slithering snake deities and mesmerising mermaids. Signalling the end of the first phase and anticipating the second, this west-facing temple is a significant landmark in Bhubhaneshwar’s architectural evolvement. The temple has been acclaimed as one of the most refined temples in Odisha for its elegant proportions and terrific surface treatment. Parsuramesware, Vaital and Brahmesvara, although petite, are ever so pretty, but 11th century Rajarani that occupies landscaped gardens blossoms with lazy crowds. Called the Khajuraho of Odisha, Rajarani gets its name from the red and gold sandstone, locally known as ‘Rajarani’, that it is crafted out of. Dedicated to Lord Brahma, its primary attractions comprise meticulously carved figurines. The temple is exceptional for its depiction of females in varietal postures, from maternally cradling a baby in her arms to seductively holding a mirror in her hand. Outside Bhubhaneshwar, teetering in remoteness, is the mystic 9th century shrine of the 64 yojinis – an encirclement of 64 sculpted female forms, each with an elaborate and extravagant coiffure enough to shame the French…Imbrued in mist and mystery, supposedly a tantric site, it is a charming place, for sure – one that would surely inspire many a tale and memory.

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December 2014

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Festival of the month

Photo: Yngve Andersson, Sweden

Christmas – December 25

India celebrates Christmas with joy and verve and there is a lot happening in your cities. We bring you places to go around to EAT or pick up Christmas goodies; PRAY at churches in the different metros; or spread some LOVE by contributing to a charity of your choice. EAT The typical Western fare of turkey and cranberry sauce with Yule logs are featured in many buffet spreads in India, too. We handpicked a few that other expatriates have tried and tested. Mumbai: •

Check out Theobroma patisserie for its baked goodies and sandwiches – their Christmas specials get booked in advance. They have branches at Bandra, Powai, Colaba and Peddar Road.

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Le Pain Quotidien, known for its Christmas treats, is located at Powai, Colaba and Bandra Kurla complex.

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For Christmas brunch or Christmas Eve dinner, book your tables at Indigo Fine Dining at Colaba or the Yauatcha at Bandra Kurla Complex.

Delhi •

Head to Imperial Hotel, Connaught Place for an exquisite selection of hors d’oeuvres and signature dishes such as Norwegian salmon and more.

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Shiro, the restaurant at Hotel Samrat, Kautilya Marg has ovenroasted Asian turkey as part of its Christmas spread, along with other goodies.

Bengaluru •

Soul City, UB City, Vittal Mallya Road offers a Christmas brunch with traditional and authentic dishes.

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Tango Calypso, Richmond Road has live music nights throughout December and a special Christmas five-course meal.

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Palette at Vivanta by Taj has an exclusive Christmas Celebration Table with all traditional Christmas delights.

Chennai •

Vivanta by Taj celebrates the spirit of Christmas with a traditional brunch that includes turkey, Yule logs and desserts.

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The cake shop at Hotel Leela Palace has alluring hand-crafted chocolates and pastry this festive season – order your Christmas goodies in advance.

LOVE India has an ocean of causes where you can extend your help, but people often do not know where to start. Here are charities for the young and old, known for the excellent work they do, with the assurance that your donation will go to the right person. Delhi •

The Delhi Council for Child Welfare, located at Yamuna Marg, gives a home for abandoned children. Tel: 011-23968907

•

Mobile Creches at DIZ Area, Raja Bazaar, Sector IV, Near Gole Market, facility cares for children of construction workers. Tel: 011-23347635 / 23363271.

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Mumbai •

Akanksha at Voltas House ‘C’, TB Kadam Marg, Chinchpokli, is an NGO with a mission to provide children from low-income communities with education. Tel: 022-23700253, 23729880

•

Mumbai Mobile Creches at Abbas Building, Colaba, provides a safe childcare option for women who work at construction sites. Tel: 022 22020869

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tamil nadu Let your spirituality soar

Bengaluru •

Navachaitanya Old Age Home, Horamavu Gandhi Circle, Banaswadi, provides comfortable boarding facilities with medical care for senior citizens. Tel: 080-65655555, 9448244695

•

Abilashrayam Trust at 373, 2nd Cross, Muniswamappa Layout, Kodigehalli, is a registered NGO working for child rights, senior citizen rights and rural development across India. Tel: 09880050186, 080-41226564

Chennai •

Pathway at 12th West Street, Kamaraj Nagar, Thiruvanmiyur, rehabilitates and educates children with special needs. Tel: 0449840121859.

•

Kaakkum Karangal at New No.89 (Old No.47), Santhome High Road, Santhome, is a home for the old and destitute, and orphaned children. Tel: 044-24617754

PRAY Participate in special midnight masses and day masses that are conducted in English. Delhi •

The Cathedral Church of Redemption, 1 Church Road, North Avenue. Tel: 011-23094229

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Sacred Heart Cathedral. 1 Ashoka Place. Tel: 011-23363593

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Church of Immaculate Conception, Kenhi Village, Sector 44, Gurgaon. Tel: 0124-2380506

Mumbai: •

Holy Name Cathedral or Wodehouse Church, Colaba. Tel: 02222020121

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Mount Mary’s Basilica, Bandra (West). Tel: 022-26423152

Bengaluru: •

St. Marks Cathedral, #1, M.G. Road. Tel: 080-22213633 / 22214201

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Infant Jesus Shrine, Bazaar Street, Vivek Nagar. Tel: 08025301206

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Ashraya, Lemontree Hotel, St. John’s Road, Ulsoor. Tel: 09663395276

Chennai: •

St. Luis Church, No.10, 3rd Canal Cross Road, Gandhi Nagar. Tel: 044-22484912

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St. George’s Cathedral, Cathedral Road. Tel: 044-28114261

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Santhome Cathedral Basilica, 19, Santhome High Road, Karneeswarapuram, Mylapore. Tel: 044-24985455.

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visit: www.milesworth.com Milesworth Travels & Tours Pvt. Ltd., 39 R M Towers, 108 Chamiers Road, Chennai. Tel: +91-44-24320522 / 24359554 Fax: +91-44-24342668 E-mail: holidays@milesworth.com

December 2014

The Lighter Side by Marina Marangos

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1 Even travelling on the road can be an adventure â&#x20AC;&#x201C; India would not be true to itself if it did not offer you this slightly paranoid, edgy time

Living on the Edge

Photo: Douglas Vanherpe, Belgium

Living on the edge of your seat, the edge of a precipice, the edge of a road. Living in India you find yourself experiencing so much. Some seem perfectly ordinary, whereas other experiences are wholly extraordinary. India would not be true to itself if it did not offer you this slightly paranoid, edgy time. None of us, even years after we have left, if we ever do, will forget those experiences. Experiences such as travelling down a road. How normal is that, how every day, but Indian road travel – ah! therein lies the bump. It is perfectly natural to feel a little edgy on a very steep road with no barriers between you and the abyss below, but India makes a game of this and indulges in sheer death-defying roads as if they might be a replacement for a roller-coaster or a white-knuckle ride. The last time I was on one, travelling from Dehradun to our little village in the Himalayas, my friend had to ask me not to squeeze her hand so tightly as she was in pain. So was I, as I looked down at the huge drop on a road famous for its landslides and where the edges were there by the grace of a god willing them up at that moment in time. Overtaking and crossing you would have thought would be a big no-no, but, in fact, the drivers engage in this sport happily. You try to defy gravity and slowly slant your body away from the drop, moving inwards towards the mountain in the hope that your weight will stop you from disappearing off the edge. Seconds later, the overtaking is complete, you are back onto the gravel road and you breathe out and readjust your position in the car but only for a few seconds before another mind-curling hairpin bend rears its ugly head. Natural self-preservation tactics, you will agree, but so often you are in the hands of others. That is when you have little control over what happens. I grip the edge of my seat and put on imaginary brakes because, the driver has suddenly decided that the only way to get though the traffic is driving on the hard shoulder. This is your driver taking things into his hands but what about all the rest out there who decide to drive down the motorway in the wrong direction or, alternatively, edging forward on the motorway at a snail’s pace in the fast lane? And that is just the human interaction. There is more to expect from the four-legged variety that

December 2014

Photos: Marina Marangos, Greece

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suddenly appear out of nowhere, be it on a railway line, a four-lane highway or a country road. Occasional gestures are made to preserve one’s mortal coil on this earth. We had ordered a car to take us to Agra. The car arrived early – a good sign – and I climbed into the back seat. I looked around for the seatbelt, pulled it towards me and then looked down to click it in. Although I looked hard and carefully, I could not see anywhere to click it in. So I tapped the driver on the shoulder and showed him my belt and asked, ‘Could you help me?’ in my best Hindi. His faced beamed and he leapt out of his seat and came to my side of the car, he took the seat belt from me, strapped it over my chest and tucked it firmly into the crack between the two seats. ‘Tikke,’ he said with a wide smile? Well you could have been knocked me down with a feather. ‘Tikke,’ I said, and off we went, this time not on the edge of my seat but clinging on to it in the hope that whatever encumbrance, hindrance or animal encountered would not dislodge me. Shubh Yatra (safe journey) to all of you out there.

December 2014

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Myth and Mythology by Devdutt Pattanaik

Tale of Three Marys 1 We all know Mary as the mother of Jesus Christ. But the New Testament of the Bible speaks of many Marys â&#x20AC;&#x201C; who were the others?

Photo: Photo Competition participant

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We all know Mary as the mother of Jesus Christ. But the New Testament of the Bible speaks of many Marys. Three of these witnessed the Passion, as Jesus carried the cross on which he was ultimately crucified. These three were also the first to witness the empty tomb guarded by an angel, indicative of the Christ’s resurrection. Who were these three Marys? There are many theories about their identity. The first Mary was in all probability Mary of Nazareth, wife of Joseph, who immaculately conceived Jesus and is described as the Mother of God. The second was probably Mary, wife of Clopas, cousin of the first Mary, mother of James. In some tales, she served as midwife when Jesus was born. The third Mary was probably Mary of Bethany, sister of Lazarus and Martha. Jesus had brought back Lazarus from the dead and Mary had become a close disciple, one who paid attention to all that Jesus said, unlike Martha who was more interested in household chores. But attention then turns to Mary of Magdala or Mary Magdalene, the most popular of Marys, after the Virgin Mary. Much has been speculated and written about her, making her at once mysterious and fascinating. In popular Christian lore, Mary was a harlot, or a woman of loose morals, who was cured of seven demons (sins?) by Jesus Christ, who wiped his feet with her tears and her hair, who stood by him when most of his male followers abandoned him when he was arrested, who watched him being crucified, who anointed his corpse that was put in a tomb and who was the first to see Jesus Christ after his resurrection three days later. Of course, scholars have now declared that this is a ‘composite’ Mary, created by merging the stories of different Marys. Yes, there was a prostitute who changed her ways and became the disciple of Jesus. Yes, there was a woman who wiped his feet with her hair. Yes, there was a disciple called Mary, cured of seven demons, who stood by him when he

December 2014

was crucified, anointed his body for burial and witnessed the resurrected Christ. But they were in all probability three different women. The last Mary became the companion of the Virgin Mary after the crucifixion. In some tales, after the Virgin ascends to heaven, she moves to the desert where the dry heat vaporized her clothes and she walked wearing nothing, her nakedness covered with nothing but her long hair, and was fed manna by angels until it was time for her to rise to heaven too. Then there are tales where she travels first to Rome then to Southern France to spread the word of Jesus. In Rome she meets the emperor Tiberius holding an egg in her hand. The emperor laughs that the story of resurrection is as improbable as the egg in her hand being red. As soon as he utters these words than the egg in Mary’s hand turns red. The first Easter egg! In art, she is often shown holding the red egg, the red colour sometimes attributed to the blood of Jesus that dripped as he hung from the crucifix. In the Gnostic tradition are stories of how many of the apostles were jealous of how close Mary Magdalene was to Jesus, leading to speculative theories that this Mary was probably the wife of Jesus and she was declared a prostitute and her name wiped out of all chronicles by an increasingly patriarchal Church that preferred visualizing Jesus as celibate thus enabling them to deny priesthood to women. It is interesting to contrast the Virgin Mary with Mary Magdalene. Mary is visualized as pure and unsullied, her head always covered with a scarf. Mary Magdalene is visualized as cleansed from a soiled state, her hair loose. Mother Mary is associated with Christmas, the birth of Jesus Christ. Mary Magdalene is associated with Easter, the resurrection of Jesus Christ. Mother Mary is shown as poor, gentle and humble while Mary Magdalene is visualized as rich, confident and intelligent. Both women are dear to Jesus, but only one is eventually celebrated, the other side-lined.

Published on 20th December, 2013, in ‛The Speaking Tree’. Reprinted with permission from www.devdutt.com

December 2014

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Holistic living by Eknath Easwaran

No End to New Beginnings

Photo: Carl Knudsen, Canada

5 Join Us Every Saturday India Immersion Centre in Chennai facilitates a weekly spiritual fellowship group following Easwaranâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eight Point Programme of Meditation. E-mail us for more information at globalindian@globaladjustments.com. If you are in other cities, visit www.easwaran.org for e-satsangs.

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At this very minute, the mystics remind us, the messengers of death are on their way with a letter for each of us. This letter was posted the day we were born, and we never know when it will arrive. For some the letter takes a long time to reach its destination; for others it comes by special delivery at midnight. It shocks us to hear about the sudden death of a friend in an auto accident, just as it shocks us to hear that someone has a terminal illness with only three or four years to live. But the truth is that the body is mortal, and whether it lasts five years or fifty is only a matter of degree. In other words, if I may put it a little grimly, this whole universe is a theater of death; everything that has been created is in the process of passing away. For the shalabha moth it is a matter of hours; towards the other end of the scale there is the sun, which has been blazing away in the sky in the same way for much longer than there has been life on our earth. It is difficult to imagine that the sun has not been around forever. Yet like us, our sun has a kind of birthday too. He was born some six billion years ago, probably out of contracting clouds of gas, and though he seems fit enough now – just right to sustain life – he has already entered into middle age. Gradually the vital fusion fires at his core are going to cool and then flare up erratically as he swells into a so-called red giant, a lethargic solar Falstaff with a middle-age bulge that engulfs the earth. After another ten billion years, when his temperature drops for the last time, he will explode in a final display of solar dramatics, or suddenly begin to contract and cool until he is no more than another cold cinder floating in space. Against this vast life cycle, only the universe could seem eternal. Yet even that may have an end, and according to one current theory in cosmology, just as the universe was born in an unimaginable explosion from a single point before there was either space or time, it will eventually collapse into a point again and disappear, pulling its grave in after it. The Hindu scriptures give us much the same picture when they say that there have been countless universes like this and will be countless more hereafter, in an endless cycle of creation, expansion, and destruction. In the language of the Buddha, the whole of creation is an endless process of birth and death.

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There is no superstition with more disastrous consequences than the universal belief that we are the body – this one fatal error is the source of all our suffering from birth to death. However, take comfort in the fact that we are not the body – and we cannot be diminished once and for all. My spiritual teacher, my grandmother, had her own ways of teaching me this when I was still quite small. I was always an enthusiastic student in school, and because I loved my Granny very much, I used to run home every day to tell her what we had learned. And every day she would be waiting for me right by the front gate. Once, however, I must have come home with gloom showing all over my face, because Granny immediately asked what was the matter. “Bad news, Granny,” I said. “Today in geography our teacher told us that compared to the universe, you and I are no more than insignificant specks of dust.” Granny was a simple village woman, but she was never one to be intimidated by book-learning. She laughed and took me by the hand. “Look,” she said, pointing up at the sky. “Even that sun is going to burn out someday and pass away. But you and I, because the Lord lives in us, can never die.” I don’t think there is any superstition with more disastrous consequences than this universal belief that we are the body. This one fatal error is the source of all our suffering from birth to death. Of course, the body must wear out and fall away someday; no one would deny it. But you and I are not the body. As the Sufi mystic Al-Ghazzali puts it in a little poem composed on his deathbed: When my friends weep over my dead body, Ask them, “Do you mistake him to be this?” Tell them I swear in the name of the Lord That this dead body is not I. It was My garment while I lived on earth; I wore it during my stay there.

The Self Can Never Die The miracle here, as all the world’s great religions testify, is that you and I can break out of this cycle of birth and death

Reprinted with permission from ‘Deepening Determination’, an article by Eknath Easwaran from The Blue Mountain Journal. Copyright The Blue Mountain Center of Meditation, P.O. Box 256, Tomales, CA 94971, www.easwaran.org. (Extract from http://www.easwaran.org/deepening-determination.html)

December 2014

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Photo: Thomas Brouns, USA

Realty bytes by Anita Krishnaswamy

You say you are my broker, then why can’t you fix up the home I rent to my satisfaction?

Great Expectations

Brokers are actually negotiating experts who have to balance two sides of a scale. That calls for tact and diplomacy. Many brokers in India do not understand expat requirements and operate from the landlord’s side only. Some expertise is required by a realty expert to understand and balance both points of view, as in India, all deals are relationship driven. We recommend that you list your specifications in order of priority. Ensure that you communicate it with your broker. This would lead to at least your key requirements being fulfilled. Reputed brokers usually try their best to ensure that your requirements are fulfilled to the best possible quality and in time.

For all those niggling questions you might have on housing and realty in India, write to anita@globaladjustments.com

Why do landlords take a deposit, apart from the rent? That seems a bit greedy. We don’t do that in Europe? The system of taking deposits evolved due to many tenants extending their lease period without paying their rent, or skipping rent for several months. It is a financial safeguard for the landlord, much the same way banks ask for a collateral security when issuing a home loan. The deposits vary from city to city and may be negotiable. The deposit norm is usually six to 10 months’ rent. Do remember to ask for the entire deposit amount when you move out at the end of your contract. It is fully refundable in all cities.

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December 2014

Global Wellness Series

The Right Start As diabetes affects about 400 million globally, Dr.K Baraneedharan, Consultant Diabetologist of Global Health City tells us how to reduce the risk.

Diabetes affects more than 70 million people in India, and 1 in 5 people are at a risk of getting the disease. Individuals can reduce their risk of type 2 Diabetes by • Choosing water or unsweetened coffee or tea instead of fruit juice , soda, etc • Eating at least three servings of vegetables such as spinach, lettuce or broccoli and fruits • Choosing nuts, a piece of fresh fruit or sugar –free yoghurt for a snack • Choosing lean cuts of white meat, poultry and seafood of processed meat or red meat. • Choosing peanut butter instead of chocolate spread or jam to spread on bread • Choosing whole grain bread instead of white bread, brown rice instead of white rice, whole grain pasta instead of refined pasta. • Choosing unsaturated fats (olive oil,canola oil,corn oil,or sunflower oil)instead of saturated fats (butter,ghee,animalfat,coconut oil or palm oil).

Why is a healthy breakfast important? Eating a healthy breakfast helps to control appetite and blood glucose concentrations in both adults and children. Skipping breakfast is associated with weight gain.

How can physical activity prevent Diabetes? Research showed that people can delay and possibly prevent the disease by losing a small amount of weight (5 to 7 percent of total body weight) through 30 minutes of physical activity 5 days a week.

December 2014

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4 Chennai Property Velachery Charming apartment to rent

Kottivakkam Upscale apartment to rent

• 4 Bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, 4th floor • Brand new, ACs fitted, • Fully equipped gym and club house • Close to Phoenix Mall • Power back-up, parking

• 4 bedrooms + Study, 4 bathrooms • 2,700 sq.ft, Architect designed • Large living rooms with an open kitchen • Parking, Power back-up

Anna Nagar Posh Aparment for Rent

Vandaloor Villa for Rent

• 3 Bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, 2nd floor • 2,500 sq.ft, 8 surveillence cameras • Unfurnished, Parking, • Garden, Power back-up

• 3 Bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, • 1,800 sq.ft, gated community • Unfurnished, Parking, • Garden, play area • Close to Tagore College

For more properties, call Global Adjustments at 91 44 24617902/91 72999 12605 (Chennai), or e-mail: realty@globaladjustments.com

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December 2014

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4 Bengaluru Property North Bangalore Apartment for Rent

Central Bengaluru Apartment for Rent

• 5,500 sq.ft. , 4 bedrooms plus entertainment room • Gated Community • Luxurious Club House facilities • Fully furnished with white goods

• 5,500 sq.ft. apartment • Elite apartment in Vittal Malya Road • Semi Furnished with air Conditioners and white goods

Whitefield Villa for Rent

Indira Nagar House for Rent

• 4 bedroom plus study • Villa in a gated community • Semi-furnished - white goods, basic furniture

• 4,800 sq.ft. • Independent house • Semi-furnished with white goods and basic furniture

For the above sample and many more such properties call +91-80-41267152 /+91-9986960315 or email: blr@globaladjustments.com

4 Delhi Property Gurgaon Magnolias Apartment for rent

Gurgaon Palm Springs Villa for rent

• 5 bedrooms • New , Fully air-conditioned • Large balcony and living room • 100% power back-up, security, clubhouse • Tennis, swimming pool, spa, restaurant, bakery, in house cinema, business centre.

• 5 bedrooms • Back garden, splash pool. • 100% security and power back-up • Clubhouse, gym, bowling alley and movie theater. • Children’s play area.

Delhi Vasant Vihar Duplex Apartment for rent

Delhi Maharani Bagh Apartment for rent

• 4 bedrooms • Aesthetically designed, with character • Air-conditioned, 100% power back-up • Terrace

• 4 bedrooms • Aesthetically designed, with character • Air-conditioned, 100% power back-up • Terrace garden

For the above sample and many more such properties call +91-124-4389488 /+91-981551070 or email: del@globaladjustments.com

4 Mumbai Property Juhu Furnished Apartment for Rent

Bandra West Apartment for Rent

• 3,000 sq.ft., 4 bedrooms • Modular kitchen, marble flooring • Car parking • Servant’s quarters

• 2,125 sq.ft., 3 bedrooms • Furnished, Modular kitchen • Gym, pool • Car parking space, servant’s quarters

Powai Large Apartment for Rent

Bandra West Fully furnished apartment for Rent

• 1,350 sq.ft, 2 bedrooms + study • Fully furnished apartments • Modular Kitchen, marble flooring • Car parking space, servant’s quarter

• 3 bedrooms, 2,550 sq.ft • Sea View • Modular kitchen, Car parking space • Gym, servants’ quarters

For the above sample and many more such properties call +91-22-66104191/+91-9769001515 or email: mum@globaladjustments.com

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December 2014

Registered with the Registrar of Newspapers for India RNI No.TNENG/2010/32752. Postal Reg.No.TN/CC(S)Dn./396/2013-15. Licensed to post without prepayment under WPP No. TN/PMG(CCR)/WPP-268/2013-15. Date of Publication:1st of every month.