Culturama February 2015 by Rohini Manian

culturama your cultural gateway to india

February 2015 Volume 5, Issue 12

Rs 40

February 2015

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Dear Readers, It is getting excitingly close to Global Adjustments’s 20th ‘birthday’ – a milestone that will be upon us next month. As we bring you this 228th issue of Culturama, I am reminded of an early inspiration: ‘Do what you love to do and do it so well that the world can’t take its eyes off you’. The team that brings this magazine to you was delighted when one reader picked up Culturama and felt compelled enough to compliment us during his oneday visit to India. He said, “Picked up your magazine at Raintree Hotel. Nicely put together. The article on Ramachandra Guha’s book caught my attention; the other articles such as ‘Indian Harvest Festivals’ shows quality curation.” His signature led us to scurry off to discover

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on the Internet that he was the founder of a top class advertising agency in New York, who represents brands such as Bulgari and Tag. We felt truly validated. What we love to do is promote Indian cultural understanding and also support women’s causes. This comes together in our annual charity concert, Aikya, which will take place this year on March 7, in Chennai (http://www.globaladjustments.com/aikya/). When we began the series six years ago, people asked us why we were trying to reinvent yet another show in Chennai, the capital of classical music and dance in the country. Our idea was to bring stalwarts together in a themed concert. Aikya has a goal – weaving genres into a 90-minute programme, linking generations and leaving a lasting thought for anyone who appreciates music A tear in the eye and an upliftment of the mind at each year’s performance has led to halls becoming packed to capacity. Now in its sixth year, Aikya is poised for a historic union of unusually talented artistes coming together on stage for a first time world premiere. Ganesh and Kumaresh, the world famous violin maestros, are known to thrill audiences with the speed of their flying fingers, and their music will be enriched by the lilting vocals of renowned vocalists Sudha Ragunathan and Bombay Jayashri. Come, watch us infuse values into violins and voices in this year’s concert. (For more on this, turn to ‘In Focus’ – Page 14.) The photos for the special cover of this Culturama was shot by nationally acclaimed photographer and our advisory board member Venket Ram, and we are most grateful to him. The AIKYA logo, which captures our appreciation for music and our ‘oneness’ was created by Padma Shri Thotta Tharani, the wonderful artist, in 2010. We rededicate ourselves to doing, super well, what we love to do. So please don’t take your eyes off us. Thank you. Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief globalindian@globaladjustments.com

culturama – Subscribe Now! Get your copy of Culturama as a hard copy or as an e-magazine visit www.culturama.in to subscribe For other enquiries, e-mail us at culturama@globaladjustments.com or call us on +91-44-2461 7902

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Credits

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Violinist-duo Ganesh and Kumaresh will be joined by vocalists Sudha Ragunathan and Bombay Jayashri for AIKYA 2015 (details on Pg 14). Cover picture by G. Venket Ram, a member of Culturama's Advisory Board.

Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Associate Editor Yamini Vasudevan Business Head Sheeba Radhamohan Sub-Editor Shefali Ganesh Senior Designer Prem Kumar Finance Controller V Ramkumar Circulation S Raghu Advertising Bengaluru Meera Roy Chennai Amritha Suresh Delhi/NCR Neha Verma Mumbai/Pune Tasneem Sastry To subscribe to this magazine, write to circulation@globaladjustments.com or access it online at www.culturama.in Chennai (Headquarters) 5, 3rd Main Road, R A Puram, Chennai – 600028 Telefax +91-44-24617902 Email culturama@globaladjustments.com Bengaluru 17/16, Ali Asker Road, Off. Cunningham Road, Bengaluru – 560 052 Mobile +91 99869 60316 Email culturamablr@globaladjustments.com Delhi-NCR 1414, DLF Galleria Tower, DLF Phase IV, Gurgaon, Haryana – 122009 Mobile +91-124-4389488 Email del@globaladjustments.com Mumbai #1102, 11th floor, Peninsula Business Park, Tower B, SB Road, Lower Parel, Mumbai – 400013 Tel +91-22-66879366 Email mum@globaladjustments.com Published and owned by Ranjini Manian at #5, 3rd Main Road, Raja Annamalai Puram, Chennai – 600028, and printed by K Srinivasan of Srikals Graphics Pvt Ltd at #5, Balaji Nagar, 1st Street, Ekkattuthangal, Chennai – 600032 Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Disclaimer Views and opinions expressed by writers do not necessarily reflect the publisher’s or the magazine’s.

Letters to the editor Dear Editor,

“I happened to read the January 2015 issue of Culturama recently – I was reading the magazine for the first time. The magazine is very nicely put together. The articles are well done, and the column ‘Indian Harvest Festivals’ shows some level of quality curation.” Dilip Keshu, USA

Dear Editor,

“I find the magazine very interesting. The layout is eyecatching, and the photographs are very nice. Even though I am an Indian (albeit one living in the United States), Culturama opened my eyes to a lot of things I did not know.” Sandhya, USA

Dear Editor,

“The Jaypore advertisement (in the January 2015 issue) is most attractive and their website didn’t disappoint either. Bravo on the recommendations you make through Culturama.” Phil Brown, UK

Dear Editor,

“It is nice to see the (former) President of India’s comment that Culturama was doing service to the nation. What he said all those years ago is true even now. Culturama is even better and most unique.” Martha Staton, UK

Dear Editor,

“I am a longtime reader of Culturama. It occurred to me recently that over the years the magazine has acquired a strong and robust character. Your team excels in ferreting out minute details about India, researching it well, and turning it into a story that is interesting to both Indian and overseas readers. It's a tough balancing act and Culturama does it very well. The features are almost always appended with practical and useful information. That and the beautiful photographs on rich paper make your magazine almost a collectible.” Suguna Swamy, India

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Culturama’s contributors 01 Susan Philip is a freelance writer based in Chennai, and the editorial coordinator of Culturama’s various coffee table books. 02 Prerna Uppal is a Londonbased freelance writer who also lends her prose to help raise funds for charity. A new mother, she is also taking a crash-course in learning to love and live each day as it comes.

03 Harini Sankaranarayanan is an ardent foodie and a professional chocolatier. She has a degree in Hotel Management, English Literature and Theatre. 04 Preeti Verma Lal is a New Delhi-based freelance writer/ photographer. If God had asked her what she wanted to be, she’d tell Him to turn her into a farmer who also writes lyrically; her fingers stained with wet clay and deep blue ink. www.deepblueink.com

06 Devdutt Pattanaik is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group, and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology. Visit www.devdutt.com

05 Eknath Easwaran (1910–1999) was a spiritual teacher, an author, and a translator and interpreter of Indian literature. In 1961,. he founded the Blue Mountain Center of Meditation and Nilgiri Press in northern California. Easwaran developed a method of meditation – silent repetition of memorised inspirational passages – which came to be known as ‘Passage Meditation’.

05 02

Advisory Board members 07 N. Ram is an award-winning journalist and former Editorin-Chief of The Hindu. He is Director of Kasturi & Sons Limited, publishers of The Hindu. 08 Suzanne McNeill lived in India for seven years, first in Chennai and then in Delhi. She has now returned to Scotland, where she works as a freelance writer and graphic designer.

09 Babette Verbeek is a correspondent for BNR Nieuwsradio who previously worked in Amsterdam and Milan. Now she joyfully explores the beauty of South Indian culture. 10 Marina Marangos is a lawyer by profession but enjoys travel and writing. She lived in India for four years before moving to Australia. She blogs at www.mezzemoments.blogspot.com

11 G. Venket Ram is an acclaimed photographer and the creative mind behind many a Culturama issue. To know more about his work, log on to www.gvenketram.com 12 Kathelijne van Eldik, from Holland, has been in Mumbai since 2004. Her employment with an airline is not a surprise, considering she has been raised in different countries and has it in her DNA to travel.

13 Marcel Van Mourik is a Dutch photographer living in New Delhi for the past three years. Together with his cameras, he is passionate about discovering Indian culture.

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Contents Regulars 16 In Focus Violinist-duo Ganesh and Kumaresh, along with vocalists Sudha Raghunathan and Bombay Jaysahri, talk about their experiences in the music circuit, and their expectations for AIKYA 2015.

India Now

A recap of events, people and places that made news in the past month.

32 Feature Cricket may be the national favourite, but there are several indoor and outdoor sports that originated in India to choose from as well.

India’s Culture 12

Short Message Service

Short, engaging snippets of Indian culture.

In your Kitchen

Try your hand at ‘mande’ – a Madhwa Brahmin favourite.

Festival of the Month

Join in the festivities for Maha Shivaratri.

Myth & Mythology

India Writes

A space for discussing the best from India’s world of literature.

Curtain Raiser

Ranjini Manian and Joanne Grady Huskey, founders of Global Adjustments, are all set to release a new book on cross-cultural links between India and the United States.

Ten for the Road

Trivia about an Indian state – featuring Karnataka this month.

Look Who’s In Town

Expats in India share their stories on a practical theme for everyday survival in this country.

Calendar of Events

See what’s going on in the main metros and suburbs.

Stories from India’s mythology, reinterpreted for practical living.

Journeys Into India

Whoever told you that India is hot and hotter did not tell you about the deadly fog that envelopes it every now and then.

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Seeing India

Take a ride across Pune in a hot air balloon or head to Vagamon – a hidden jewel in Kerala.

Picture Story

The Lighter Side

Give to India

Featuring worthy NGOs and charitable organisations across the country.

At Global Adjustments

Poornashakti – a programme for silver citizens takes off with gusto.

Take a picturesque walk – literally – through some lesser known parts of India.

Relocations and Property

Holistic Living

Even in our day-to-day lives, there are plenty of opportunities to return the favours that are bestowed on us.

Space and the City

Property listings across the metros.

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by Suzanne McNeill Short cultural snippets for an easily digestible India

Art, Textile and Craft

Usta Kaam–Gesso Painting from Bikaner Usta Kaam is decorative gold lacquer work that ornaments the walls, pillars and ceilings of the palaces of the Mughal emperors, most famously at the Junagadh Fort in the Rajasthan city of Bikaner. The Usta were a community of craftsman from Multan, now in Pakistan, who specialised in painting on gesso, the dense, chalk-white base that was coated onto wood as a ground for artwork and decoration. The intricate designs were traced onto the gesso and then a raised effect was created through repeated applications of clay to produce an embossed appearance. This was painted gold, whilst the background was painted in radiant, contrasting colours. The technique is also applied to leather goods.

Food and Drink

Words

Puran poli is shallow-fried bread with sweet filling. It is a classic Marathi dish made for dessert and for festive occasions such as Holi, but it is also popular across southern India. The filling is made from chana dal, soaked overnight then boiled for 20 minutes and ground to a paste, which is mixed with jaggery, ground cardamom and nutmeg. The paste is shared between rolled out portions of soft, springy dough made from whole wheat flour and oil, which are then folded and fried in ghee until golden brown. Watch popular cook VahChef make Puran poli: http://tinyurl.com/GA-PuranPoli.

A Sikh, pronounced ‘sic’, is a follower of Sikhism – the faith that originated in the Punjab region during the 16th century and was revealed through the teachings of Guru Nanak and the nine gurus who followed him. ‘Sikh’ comes from a Sanskrit word that means ‘disciple’ or ‘student’. ‘Seekh’, which is pronounced ‘sheek’ or ‘seek’, is the Urdu word for a metal skewer that is used to hold pieces of food together, usually meat, while grilling or roasting them. The most famous dish cooked on a seekh is the kebab, which is prepared with ground meat mixed with spices and served with naan bread and yoghurt. Both words are useful for visitors travelling around India!

Puran poli

Sikh vs Seekh

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Photo: Bart Bradley, USA

Urban Adventure

Mutton Street – Mumbai Vintage clocks, antique gramophones, Bollywood memorabilia, coins, furniture and metal artefacts – these are some of the treasures to be found in the Chor Bazaar on Mumbai’s Mutton Street. It was known to previous generations of Mumbaikars as the place to go for old-style spare parts for radios, motorbikes and cars, and the street market, which takes over the bazaar on Fridays, was once rumoured to live up to its name as the ‘thief market’. It is a vibrant experience, with streets crowded with shoppers examining goods and bargaining loudly with vendors. Dress conservatively, do not pay more than half the initial asking price, and sample the street-side lamb biryani!

Photo: J.D. Lenoir, France

Interpretations Trisula

The trisula, or trident, is the weapon associated with Lord Shiva, and is always present in Shiva iconography. The trident represents the three powers of knowledge, desire and implementation, and it is the weapon with which Lord Shiva destroys evil and restores order, symbolising his control of the world. Limes and turmeric-soaked fabric are offerings to the Divine.

He Lives On P.C. Sorcar

The ‘Maharaja of Magic’ was born in Bengal in 1913, the seventh generation of a family of magicians. He graduated as a mathematician, but magic was the passion of his life and he devoted his career single-mindedly to it. P.C. Sorcar created a colourful magic show of opulent sets, mysteries and illusions called ‘Indrajal’ that he performed around the world during the 1950s and 1960s, which both mystified and delighted audiences, reinventing illusions from previous ages such as rope tricks and flying carpets and performing with precision and showmanship new illusions of vanishing motor cars and flying rockets. P.C. Sorcar founded the All India Magic Circle and authored many books on magic. He died in 1971. In 2010, India Post issued a five-rupee stamp in his honour.

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In Focus by Yamini Vasudevan

Connecting Chords Aikya 2015 will present a first time ever concert of violinists Ganesh and Kumeresh. Indian audiences will be enthralled by the duo, who are hard to catch as they roam around among world audiences. our favorite other duo, bombay Jayashri and Sudha ragunathan, have magical moments in store for the audience

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Watch Ganesh and Kumaresh peform at the Ethno Port Poznan Festival, 2014: http://tinyurl.com/pejg4rt

Kumaresh Rajagopalan (left) and Ganesh Rajagopalan. Photo: G. Venket Ram

“Do you know that our soul is composed of harmony?” So said Leonardo da Vinci. And Ganesh and Kumaresh, the famed violinist-duo, would agree with him. Regarded as eminent violinists in India and overseas, they are best known for the prowess in Carnatic (South Indian classical) music, but their strings have also been tuned to notable collaborations with artistes from the Hindustani music genre (such as Zakir Hussain) and with western musicians (including John McLaughlin). Their music will resound through the Music Academy on March 7 for AIKYA – the annual CSR concert organised

by Global Adjustments. This year’s concert will be based on the theme of ‘Violins, Values and Voices’ and will touch on the need for a conscious appreciation of the greater good in all that we do. Fashioned as a musical monologue, based on three prominent characters from the Mahabharat – Karna, Drona and Bhishma, the 90-minute concert will serve as a delight for the senses and tonic for the soul. In what is a first-time collaboration, they will be joined by eminent vocalists Bombay Jayashri and Sudha Raghunathan, who will share the stage as special guests. “It is an amazing opportunity, and we have a special treat in

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store for the audience,” Ganesh says with a smile. Kumaresh adds that the “challenge would be to compress all we want to do into just 90 minutes!” Padma Bhushan awardee Sudha Ragunathan and Oscar nominee Bombay Jayashri performed for AIKYA in 2011 and 2012 respectively, and have fond memories of the experience. Sudha, who collaborated with famed vocalist T.M. Krishna, recalls, “It was fun, but it was also a challenge. Singing with Krishna was a wonderful experience. We had to create a format based on the theme of ‘duality’, whereby it was lighter than a hardcore classical concert, but retained the tenets of Carnatic music.” The following year, Jayashri presented a ‘Kaleidoscope’ of songs. “Three or four years before Aikya, I had the desire to share all my learning from different genres in some form with the audience. Aikya 2012 was based on the idea of how melody can be a friend at different moments in our lives. It was a fascinating experience!”

Ganesh Rajagopalan. Photo: G. Venket Ram

Winds of Change This may be the first time they are performing on the AIKYA stage, but Ganesh and Kumaresh are veterans when it comes to performing for Indian and international audiences. Their musical journey began when they were less than five years old. Their first public appearance was in 1972 at the All India Radio pavilion of ASIA ‘72 at the Pragati Maidan in New Delhi – a rare achievement as performances were usually reserved for older, more ‘experienced’ artistes. Ganesh was 7 years old and Kumaresh was 5 at that time. Needless to say, they soon joined the music circuit in their own right and were asked to perform in various concerts in the cities as well as in smaller towns and villages as well. Today, they split their time between cities that span the globe – Delhi one day and Denmark the next, so to speak. With over three decades of experience behind them, they have been active participants in, and observers of, the music scene in India and around the world. Classical South Indian music, they say, has retained its stronghold in the Indian and global

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scene over the years. In fact, in recent years, there has been a surge in interest – not just in Chennai (the ‘culture capital’ of India), but also in other countries. A common sentiment echoed by musicians across the board is that there has been a parallel growth in the opportunities for performances as well. “Twenty to 30 years ago, when I was just entering the performing space, there were fewer sabhas (concert halls), fewer vocalists and instrumentalists, and fewer opportunities for performing. You could literally count the number of performers and events on your fingers. Today, it is countless,” says Jayashri. Notably, while the famed December music season in Chennai draws crowds from countries across the world, musicians are being invited to perform in different countries all year-round. “Over the years, there seems to be a general shift towards a preferance for vocals. When we started out, music was seen as all-encompassing. We must remember that Carnatic music cannot be restricted to one form alone. It is as contemporary as any music globally, and can compete with any form of music from anywhere in the world. It allows for collaboration with different forms of music and to create a listening experience for any audience,” says Ganesh. Sudha draws on her own experience and adds to that comment. “People ask me, ‘When you go to France and sing for an entirely French group, how do they understand?’ Their applause and appreciation is testimony to that. Music is like a broad canvas, and I feel that everything can fit in within the saptaswaras (seven notes).” However, while there is a surge in interest, there is a growing tendency for concerts to be confined to major cities and metros. This, in turn, says Kumaresh, results in some invisible lines being drawn. “Twenty years back, we used to have full-fledged concerts in small towns and villages and hundreds of people would come to hear us play – and even request for pieces in specific raagas. They were the true connoisseurs. Today, these places hardly see any concerts.” Ganesh wholeheartedly agrees with the sentiment and recalls an incident from their early days. “We were once playing in a small town in southern Tamil Nadu, around 25 years back,” he says. “The concert was in the evening, and we were practising in the morning. Some village folk were walking around near the guest house where we were staying. An elderly

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Kumaresh Rajagopalan. Photo: G. Venket Ram

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gentleman was peeping over the wall and listening to us. We told him, ‘Ayya (Tamil for ‘sir’), we will be performing this evening, so please come then.’ He nodded and said, ‘You played the Kannada Gowla raaga so well! I heard Madhurai Mani Iyer (a famed vocalist) sing this long back – and now I am hearing you both play it.’ We were shocked to hear that! We asked him to come inside and played the raagas of his choice for halfan-hour. Even now, when I remember that incident, I get goosebumps!” What is the reason behind this change? “The level of cultural literacy, so to speak, seems to have declined over the years. Over the last decade or so, we have observed a growing misperception, whereby some people feel that only those who can identify raagas or taalas best appreciate Carnatic music. People who were hitherto enjoying music were intimidated by the jargon associated with it,” says Kumaresh. The ‘Real’ Picture There is hope, though, especially since there are several youngsters who are entering the field of Carnatic music in recent years. A notable channel of entry has been instituted with the music-based reality shows that feature participants from the age of three years onwards. With boys and girls from across India and other countries (notably the United States, Canada and Southeast Asia) to participate in them, there is a sharp rise in the number of people who aim to establish themselves in this art form. “I welcome reality shows,” says Ganesh, who has been a judge on ‘Carnatic Idol’. “It completely depends upon the ability of that musician or young student to perform without any backing. He/she is getting a platform and an audience as well. Is he/she is good, they are taken up, and there are a lot of young singers who have come up over the past five or six years. And that is really good, because you are immediately raising the bar.” He adds that his brother and he have both recommended that there be an effort to Sudha Ragunathan. Photo: G. Venket Ram Make-up for Sudha Ragunathan by Limelite

Watch Sudha Ragunathan and T.M. Krishna at AIKYA 2011: http://tinyurl.com/m6yqz4p

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Watch Bombay Jayashri at AIKYA 2012: http://tinyurl.com/lnhscq7

organise reality show that encourages instrumentalists as well. Contrary to what this may imply, it is not all a numbers game. Sudha, who has been a judge on some of these shows, adds, “Each artiste goes through a journey before he/she becomes established as a musician. It is not just about talent, but also whether the audience is able to accept and resonate with your music. You have to be excellent – and that comes with pursuit and perseverance.” Jayashri touches on the fact that this ‘journey’ cannot be rushed. “You also need to give that child the time to grow under a teacher, to practice, to observe the seniors in the field. Rather than say ‘What next?’, we should cultivate patience and observe their progress.” No matter how strong the winds of change, Carnatic music is strong enough to weather them – and flourish. No matter how diverse the influences that prevail upon it, the genre will embrace them, but maintain its core tenets. This flexibility does not apply to musicians alone, but to the audience as well. “We tell this to even the biggest rasika (connoisseur) of carnatic music – have an open mind. Only then can you appreciate the music fully,” says Kumaresh.

Bombay Jayashri.

STRUNG THROUGH THE AGES

Nataraja temple at Chidambaram has figures of musicians,

The violin, regarded by many as a ‘western’ instrument,

one of which plays a bowed instrument resembling the

has some strong Indian parallels too. Sonnerat (1782), a

violin. The Mallikarjuna temple at Vijayawada carries a

French scholar, said that a bowed instrument by name

sculpture portraying an instrument played with a bow

‘ravanastron’ existed in India about 5,000 years ago. The

amidst other musicians playing flutes, drums and cymbals

ravanastron, in its simplest form, consisted of a long

as they accompany a dance by a group of women. Despite

cylindrical block of wood covered with a skin. It had two

the presence of this instrument through India’s musical

strings and was played with a curved bow. Those familiar

history, it was only during colonial rule that the violin first

with Hindu mythology may recognise that the name

made its entry into the annals of Carnatic music. It was

is derived from Ravana – the anti-protagonist of the

made popular in this genre by four people – Varahappa

Ramayana. Ravana is said to have been a very talented

Iyer, Balaswami Dikshitar, Vadivelu and Krishnaswami

musician, and the ravanastron is considered his invention.

Bhagavatar. Gradually, the violin became the main melodic

Evidence of instruments similar to violins being played in

accompanying instrument to vocal music and even

India is found in temples as well. The oldest part of the

established its own right in solo performances.

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India now by Susan Philip

The month that was

As we enter a new month, we take a quick recap of events, people and places that made news in the past month

Business Matters Opportunities Unlimited

Vibrant Gujarat, a biennial investment summit held in Gujarat, brought a galaxy of world leaders to the state in January, including United Nations Secretary General Ban ki Moon and United States Secretary of State John Kerry. Ban ki Moon was all praise for Prime Minister Narendra Modi’s ‘Make in India’ policy. Addressing the august gathering, Mr. Modi called for joint efforts towards progress, prosperity and peace. Describing India as the land of opportunities, he promised that his government would take active steps to make it easier to do business with India. To get a broad understanding of the business roadmap in India, read ‘Doing Business in India for Dummies’ by Ranjini Manian. And look out for the new book she has co-authored with Joanne Grady Huskey – ‘Make It in India’ – a collective wisdom of the trail from 12 CEOs, ranging from Ford to Facebook, Microsoft to Biocon, and more, which works as a powerful instrument for Indians and Americans to achieve a productive and smooth working relationship.

Policy Planning Gets a Makeover A new government organisation has taken shape in India – the National Institution for Transforming India (NITI) Ayog. The policy think tank will replace the Planning Commission,

which was hitherto the nodal body at the Union Government level for planning for future developmental needs. The new entity, which has the Prime Minister as Chairperson, offers greater involvement to states in the planning process. One of the stated aims of the new body is to seek to provide a critical directional and strategic input into the development process. Indications are that the focus of planning could be the market, going forward.

Arty Happenings Celebrating Art The Indian art community has been growing and finding international recognition. The Kochi-Muziris Biennale at Kochi, Kerala, has become a talking point, nationally and internationally. This international exhibition of contemporary art features artists and their works across a variety of mediums, including painting, sculpture, new media and performance art. The Biennale has grown into a platform for cultural and artistic engagement. A series of informative seminars, talks, screenings, music programmes and workshops are also being held. The inaugural edition of the Kochi-Muziris Biennale opened on December 12, 2012. It became the country’s first event of this nature and scale. The second opened on December 12, 2014, and will be on till March 29, 2015. To get an idea of what’s on show, look up http:// kochimuzirisbiennale.org/

Sports Spots Captain Cool bows out from Tests M.S. Dhoni, one of the greatest captains of the Indian cricket team to date, shocked fans all over the world by announcing his retirement from the Test format of the game. For the uninitiated, the game of cricket has many avatars, the longest of which is the Test match, which spans five days. Dhoni, who made his announcement during a series in Australia, will, however, continue to lead the ‘men in blue’ in the one-day and 20–20 versions of the game.

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Different Strokes Twenty-five-year-old Bhakti Sharma has set a world record by swimming 2.5 km in the Antarctic Ocean in 52 minutes, with the water at a freezing one degree. She is the youngest swimmer in the world and the only Asian girl to achieve such a feat. Bhakti started to learn swimming when she was just two-and-a-half years old. Despite many constraints, she took to open water swimming, and has conquered all the five oceans of the world. She has already been awarded the Tenzing Norgay National Adventure Award by the Government of India in recognition of her earlier achievements, which include crossing the English Channel in 13 hrs and 55 mins in 2006, and swimming 1.8 km in the Arctic Ocean in 2010. Q. Can you name another prominent woman swimmer from India, who was the first woman to swim across seven seas in five continents?

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Journalism for him is zestful, yet his sense of public duty is strong.” For interesting insights into India’s ancient heritage, dip into B.G. Verghese’s ‘Post Haste: Quintessential India’, and for a vicarious front-row view of modern Indian history, read his autobiography, ‘First Draft: Witness to Making of Modern India’.

This and That Coin of Honour The Government of India has released a commemorative coin to mark the 175th birth anniversary of Jamsetji Nusserwanji Tata, acknowledged as the father of modern Indian industry. Two coins were released by Prime Minister Narendra Modi on the occasion – one with the denomination of Rs. 100, which is a limited edition, and the other with a value of

A. Bula Choudhury

End of an Era B.G. Verghese, RIP One of the doyens of Indian journalism, Boobli George Verghese, is no more. At various times during the eventful 87 years of his life, Verghese edited three of the best-known newspapers in the country – the Hindustan Times, Times of India and Indian Express – served as Information Advisor to the late Prime Minister Indira Gandhi, was part of several fact-finding missions set up by the Editors’ Guild of India, and authored a number of books. A gentleman among journalists and an untiring activist on developmental as well as civil rights issues, he was a stickler not only for quality journalism but for journalistic ethics as well. He was a recipient of the prestigious Ramon Magsaysay Award. The citation serves as the best description of the man and his achievements. Excerpts: “An optimist with critical integrity…professionally and personally, Verghese has few peers among a generation of Asian journalists…

Rs. 5, to be used as currency. Both coins carry the image of the industrialist on the reverse side. This is the first time the Government of India is honouring an industrialist in this manner. Jamsetji founded the Tata Group, which is India’s largest business conglomerate today. The group has diverse interests, including science, health care, automobiles and power. It also makes steel! Q. Lord Chelmsford, Viceroy of India, named a city after Jamsetji, way back in 1919. It is today a thriving industrial centre, known for its steel plant. What is this city, and which state does it belong to? A. Jamshedpur, in Jharkhand. While on the subject of coins, India is a veritable treasure trove for numismatists. Those wanting to know more about the field will find http://www.bharatcoins.com/indiancoins.html an interesting site.

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India writes

iREAD

Madras, Chennai and the Self by Tulsi Badrinath

Reviewed by Yamini Vasudevan Once regarded as the conservative cousin of the other major metros, Chennai has, in recent times, come into its own. The city’s historic legacy, its reputation as a cultural stronghold and the fact that it has maintained its traditions while embracing modernity have given the city a unique character – one that is now garnering respect and appreciation. This change in outlook, and the fact that Chennai celebrated its 375th year of founding in 2014, has led to the publication of several books on the city – with many of them penned by longstanding residents of the city, who add a personal touch through their memories and impressions. Why then, one would rightly wonder, should we have yet another book on Chennai? I started reading the book with the same question in mind – and ended up realising how mistaken I was in believing that a couple of books could tell me all there was to his enchanting city. This book is a set of stories – of those who have made a deep mark on the city. Some, I had heard of (such as actor Vikram and IAS officer P. Sivakami); some names were new to me (such as Prince of Arcot and karate expert Seshadri). All of their stories had me spellbound. I was seeing the city as being defined not by its characteristics alone, but as a living, breathing entity that gained its identity from the collective stories of its residents. The brahmin lad who defied his tradition to learn karate, the woman who rose from poverty and social discrimination to become a high-ranking government official, the man who established the landmark Woodlands Drive-in restaurant, a man who combined his dual passions for cricket and carnatic music – their lives were acted out in the city we call home. Peppered with personal instances and historic facts, the book makes for an easy yet interesting read. Tulsi literally takes the reader along with her on a journey of rediscovery through the lanes of Chennai to meet the different people. By the end of it, you will fall in love with Chennai, for the first time, or all over again – all the more reason for you to add this book to your collection. About the Author Tulsi Badrinath was born in Chennai in 1967. A classical dancer who trained under the eminent Dhananjayans, she graduated with an MBA from Ohio University in the United States. Her works of fiction were long-listed twice for the Man Asian Literary Prize (in 2007 and 2008). ‘Master of Arts’, her first non-fiction work, was named as one of the Top 10 books of 2013 by Hindustan Times. Visit her website at www.tulsibadrinath.com

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February 2015

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Curtain Raiser by Team Culturama

Ranjini Manian (left) and Joanne Grady Huskey, founders of Global Adjustments, have compiled the collective wisdom of CEOs worldwide in this handy guide to better relations between people in the United States and India.

The

Eagle

has Landed

In India

As the United states and India forge closer relations, a book that aims to iron out the seemingly small cultural speed-breakers comes as a timely read and handy guide As the India–United States business relationship deepens, the opportunities available to business executives from both countries are many – as are the challenges that confront them. Both groups have their grouses. The need of the hour is to develop a more nuanced and deeper understanding of each other’s cultures, working styles and professional concerns. Ranjini Manian of India and Joanne Grady Huskey from the United States, who

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together founded Global Adjustments – India’s premier relocations firm, believe that today, more than ever, the merger of the best from both India and the United States makes good business sense. To commemorate the 20th anniversary of their firm, they have taken the initiative to iron out the cultural speed-breakers that significantly affect work success on both sides. In their book, aptly titled Make it in India, they present the wisdom of leaders, both of the East and the West, of men and women who have led global teams successfully in India and United States.

What the book is about Ranjini and Joanne asked 11 CEOs who have led corporations from IBM to Facebook, from Ford to Microsoft and more, questions about coping with behavioural differences that have frequently rankled on both sides of the business divide. And the twelfth man, N.R. Narayana Murthy, founder of Infosys, shares snippets from his own experiences in an insightful Foreword. The authors also share tips and pointers they picked up along the way – as individuals who adapted and bonded in the other’s culture, and as the experts they have become in cross-cultural relations by interacting with 76 nationalities through Global Adjustments. This wisdom of the trail prepares the reader from India, the United States or anywhere in the world, to work on multi-cultural teams with renewed sensitivity. Given the recent meeting between United States President Barrack Obama and Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi, this book is most timely.

Make It in India is unique because • It is a treasure trove of collective wisdom about doing business successfully in India and abroad. • Rarely, if ever, have such questions been asked of such high-level business personalities. • All questions are authentic ones asked by Americans and Indians, and all answers are genuine, anecdotal advice given by the CEOs with honesty and even humour. • The book addresses questions on a variety of subjects from both sides in one place. • It gives both sides an idea of how the other side perceives/ misunderstands it.

February 2015

Here’s a sneak peek into the book. What have you found to be the most challenging Human Resource issues in building a bi-cultural team of employees? There were quite a few things to learn about human relationships particular to India. While interviewing people, we learned that if we were interviewing a single person in an Indian joint family, there was reluctance to relocate due to family obligations. While they may move initially, they would want to return to their home because ties and responsibilities to siblings were prominent in their lives. We adjusted our interviewing techniques and asked about family matters upfront; that way we could adjust our HR packages to the family needs of the person. How can I be a good team member or team lead without losing my Indian culture and style? If you are a good team member or a team lead – you are just universally good, you lose no part of your ‘Indianness’. For example, time adaption is good to do whether you are American or Indian. Indians, when asked to come on time for a meeting, may see it as adapting to the American work style, but frankly, it is good overall for any organisation to build this into the culture of their work style, isn’t it? So, lead your team fairly, don’t do the ‘them vs. us’ thing. I find it useless to think this way. There is no ‘us’ and ‘them’. Why don’t expats involve us in the bigger picture? I think you earn your way to be involved in the bigger picture, by going to them with your thoughts on where the company should be going. It’s asking questions at the right junctures, it’s often not what you know but what you share. It’s often the questions you ask that make the difference. Have your own ideas and ask and share. Don’t go in there passively and say, ‘I want to be in the bigger picture!’ How can we help Indian team members if they don’t ask questions at meetings and later during implementation, we find they didn’t understand instructions? In a one-room meeting scenario, it’s hard to get people to speak up in India. People will leave the meeting without getting their questions answered, thinking they will figure them out later, while it is much easier to get the answers

Topics covered include

right there. I find it effective, when there is someone who

• • • • • •

understands that and asks, ‘What questions do we have

Making a good first impression Getting the most mileage out of meetings Managing human resources and human relations Negotiating to advantage Gender augmentation Succinct takeaways to springboard the reader into a ‘global business citizen’

that have not been asked, let’s put them out now.’ This helps to understand the cultural biases. The book is priced at Rs. 250 per copy. For advance booking or bulk orders , contact Krishna Kumar at +91-99400 58774 or krishnakumar@westland-tata.com

February 2015

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Ten for the Road by Susan Philip

Karnataka Explore the 29 states of this fascinating subcontinent. This segment will set out a collection of interesting, bite-size facts from each state – this month, we look at Karnataka

How the Land Lies: The seventh largest state in terms

Political Pressures: Originally home to several powerful

Past Glories: The area now called Karnataka has always

of area, Karnataka, in the south of India, has a long coastline, verdant hills, dense forests, breathtaking waterfalls, ancient palaces and temples, and also a thriving software industry. Bengaluru (formerly Bangalore) is the capital, and goes by the sobriquet of the ‘Silicon Valley of India’. empires and princely states, the region was once known as the State of Mysore. It was renamed Karnataka in 1973.

been rich, not only in minerals and precious metals, but also in culture and philosophy. Gold found in the ruins of the Indus Valley Civilisation has been traced to this part of the country, while literary and spiritual movements which originated here sustain to this day.

4. Ethnic Fingerprint: The majority of the people in

Karnataka are Kannadigas. The state also has a significant population of tribes, such as the Tuluvas, Kodavas and Konkanis, and minor ones like the Soligas, Yeravas and Todas. It also has the largest Tibetan settlement in southern India.

Culture Quotient: Musicians from here have risen to world fame in the Carnatic and Hindustani schools of classical music. Yakshagana is a vibrant form of native traditional folk theatre, while the modern Indian literary scene has been enriched by stalwarts such as Girish Karnad (pictured on extreme left), U.R. Ananthmurthy and K.V. Puttappa (‘Kuvempu’).

Personality Plus: Among the men and women from

Sights to See: Explore the rolling hills of Coorg, the

Tasty Treats: The Dharwad pedha (a sumptuous sweet of

Crafted with Care: Mysore paintings embellished with

Karnataka who have left their mark, Tipu Sultan (sketch on left) tops the list for flamboyant courage. Known as ‘Sher-e-Mysore’ (Tiger of Mysore), he halted the march of British colonialism in South India, managing to emerge victorious in two wars. The Mysorean Missiles, a rocket developed by his father, Hyder Ali, and improved by him, form the basis of the famous Congreve rockets devised by the Royal Arsenal in England.

stunning fingerprints of the erstwhile Vijayanagar Empire at Hampi, the majestic Mysore Palace, the beautiful Brindavan Gardens, the Renigunta and Bannerghatta wildlife sanctuaries, and, of course, the shops on Bengaluru’s Brigade Road. thickened milk and sugar) has a geographical indication (GI) tag, while others like the Mysore pak (a decadent, ghee-soaked dessert made of gram flour and sugar), and the crispy savoury maddhur vada are identified by their places of origin. But Karnataka’s signature dish has to be bisi bele bath – a spicy, one-pot comfort meal of rice, daal and vegetables.

gold leaf, intricately worked Bidri artifacts in metal and sandalwood handicrafts are all unique to Karnataka. There’s even a ‘Toy Town’ – Channapatna. The lacquered wooden toys made here have been awarded the GI tag. There is not a whiff of lead in the bright vegetable dyes used to paint them.

10. Worshipfully Yours: The towering statue

Photo: Ran Levy, UK

of Gomateshwara Bahubali (left), a Jain saint, at Shravanabelagolais said to be the world’s tallest sculpted monolith. It attracts lakhs of pilgrims, particularly during the most important festival of Mahamastakabhisheka.

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February 2015

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Photo: www.holycowvegan.net

In Your Kitchen by Harini Sankaranarayan

Unbroken Traditions

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February 2015

Ingredients: For the dough: 1 cup all-purpose flour 1/2 tsp salt 1 tbsp vegetable shortening Water (as needed) For the stuffing: 1/2 cup powdered sugar 1 tsp powdered cardamom 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds 2 tbsp shredded coconut

Directions For the dough: Add enough water to the ingredients and knead into a pliable, soft, elastic dough that is not too hard but does not stick to your fingers either. If you are kneading this in a food processor, pour the water in with the blades running until a dough ball forms. Cover the dough in a plastic wrap and set aside for at least 15 minutes. For the stuffing: Place all the ingredients in a bowl and mix well. Making the mande: Heat enough oil in a pan to deep fry the mande. (You want your oil to be at 350 degrees F, which is a perfect temperature for frying so that the mande does not get soggy.) Divide the dough into 10 pieces. Roll each piece into a smooth ball and, using just as much flour as you absolutely need, roll into a really thin disc, around 5–6 inches in diameter. Put the disc into the hot oil and fry either side for about 15 seconds or until the disc is all bubbly and begins to stiffen ever so slightly. You need to get a good feel for this – if you take out the disc too fast it will not be cooked enough; if you leave it in the oil for too long, it will stiffen up before you have a chance to fold it. Place the disc on a plate covered with a kitchen towel to absorb excess oil. Working fast, sprinkle about a tablespoon of the sugar mixture over one half of the mande, then fold over the other half to form a semi-circle. Sprinkle a couple more teaspoons of the sugar mixture over half the semi-circle and fold over once more. Set aside to cool, preferably on a rack. You have to let the mande cool thoroughly for the crispy, crackly texture. Heat a cup or two of milk. Add some crushed almonds and saffron for flavour. Add sugar to taste. Place the mande in a cup and top with some of the fragrant thickened milk. Enjoy.

The Madhwa Brahmins of Maharashtra migrated to the southern state of Tamil Nadu a couple of centuries ago, but have kept alive elements of their culture – especially in their food habits Pramodh can trace his family’s origins all the way back to Chatrapathi Shivaji (a well-known king who ruled an area around present-day Maharashtra from 1674 to 1680). The story goes that Shivaji’s half-brother was put in charge of certain parts of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu – and with him moved a whole lot of Marathi-speaking people who settled in these parts. Pramodh’s ancestors settled in Thanjavur in South India (in the state of Tamil Nadu). It is interesting to note that many Tamilians also migrated to Maharashtra around the same time. Pramodh’s family were Madhwa Brahmins, who brought with them the customs and rituals from their native region, and of course their language – Marathi. “Today, we have integrated so well into the Tamil culture that it is difficult to separate the two,” says Pramodh. “We still speak Marathi, but with a generous amount of Tamil thrown in.” As Madhwa Brahmins, they follow the teachings of Sri Madhvacharyar (a religious Guru) and, as Brahmins, they have an elaborate number of prayers and rituals. “We are expected to start the day with prayers and this is to be done on an empty stomach.” By the time the morning prayers are done, it is quite late into the morning, so most Brahmin houses prefer to have brunch. It is a given that the food they eat has already been offered to the Gods. It is usually a simple meal of rice accompanied by sambar, rasam, buttermilk and a vegetable. Traditionally, Madhwa Brahmins were allowed only one meal a day. So after the brunch, if you got hungry, it was usually a glass of milk, some buttermilk or fruit. “Our life was supposed to be spent in prayer,” says Pramodh with a half-smile and confesses that very few follow that rule these days. “But we are strict vegetarians and prefer to avoid onions and garlic,” he adds. There is more – the restrictions also apply to most roots and tubers that grow underground. Despite the dietary restrictions, their food is delicious. Simple and fresh, they are usually based on locally available produce. Lest one thinks that all food is influenced by the local cuisine, there are still a lot of the Maharashtrian traditions to be seen. Poha (beaten rice) is a firm favourite as is the use of certain spices. Like every self-respecting Indian, sweets are an integral part of the cuisine. The mande is a crisp fried sweetmeat made as part of a celebratory meal. “At weddings, this is usually one of the sweets served,” says Pramodh. “One can have it plain (it tastes delicious!), or experience a richer version, which is served with saffron and almond flavoured milk.” Try the recipe and see which one you prefer.

February 2015

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Feature by Suzanne McNeill

Games

Indians

Play Cricket is often regarded as the ‘national’ game of India because of its immense popularity, but it is definitely not the only choice – there are several indigenous indoor and outdoor options. And some of these games have been around since ancient times A list of the sports most popular in India starts, unsurprisingly, with cricket, includes soccer, field hockey, badminton and tennis, and concludes with Formula One motor sport, table tennis and basketball. Only 2 of the 10 have indigenous roots: chess and wrestling. Older generations of Indians grew up playing a variety of indoor and outdoor games and sports that were part of the country’s rich cultural heritage. Many appear to have been side-lined or forgotten in recent years, whilst others continue to thrive at the local and national level. Here is an introduction to the home-grown games and sports of India.

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February 2015

Pallankuzhi, a game from the South, uses dried tamarind seeds as chips. Photo: www.desinema.com

INDOOR GAMES India gave the game of chess to the world. Chess grew out of a sixthcentury tactical board game called chaturanga, a Sanskrit word that describes the four divisions of an army – elephants, chariots, cavalry and infantry. The pieces thus represented would evolve into the modern bishop, rook, knight and pawn. Different pieces had different powers, and victory depended on the fate of one piece – as it does to this day. The creator was said to be a mathematician called Sessa, who presented his king with a board divided into 64 squares and two sets of pieces, one set to represent the king’s army, the other his enemy. He taught the king the lesson that he needed to sacrifice valuable pieces to win the end game. (There is an interesting story associated with chess – given in the box on the right.) From India, chess moved to Persia and then to Europe. The game beloved of emperors (it is said that Akbar played live chess in the courtyard of his palace in Fatehpur Sikri where, seated at a high vantage point, he directed real animals and soldiers around a giant board) has grown in popularity at all levels of Indian society because of the success of grandmaster and world chess champion Vishwanathan Anand and the rising number of Indian men and women who hold top world rankings. Mughal Emperor Akbar is also associated with the board game pachisi, the first descriptions of which were written at his court in the 16th century, although it dates from 1,000 years earlier. An enthusiast of the game, Akbar laid out a huge ‘board’ on the flagstones of his courtyard where he and his courtiers could play (using, it is said, slaves as the ‘pieces’). The game is a

The Chessboard Conundrum

The king was so impressed by chess that he granted Sessa whatever he desired. Sessa’s clever answer was to request one grain of wheat for the first square on his board, two grains of wheat for the second square, four grains of wheat for the third, eight grains of wheat for the fourth, and so on right up to the sixtyfourth square, numbering an extraordinary 18,446,744,073,709,551,615 grains in total – far more than intuition would suggest (and far, far more than the king was able to give). This fable is known as the ‘Wheat and Chessboard Problem’, and presents an example of geometric progression that highlights ancient India’s prodigious aptitude for mathematics.

Ganjifa cards Photo: www.cohands.com

February 2015

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somewhat similar to draughts. The board is shaped as a symmetrical cross, usually embroidered on cloth, and each player has four wooden pieces, which move around the board based on a throw of six cowrie shells – the number that fall with their openings upwards indicates how many spaces the player may move. The objective is to move all four pieces around the board before an opponent does. More than one piece may occupy a single square, but a piece may not move onto a ‘castle’ square if it is already occupied by an opponent’s piece. Pieces may be captured according to where they land, and players learn strategies that allow them to conclude a game with the exact throws required. Chaupar (or chausar) is a similar game, with stick-like dice instead of cowrie shells. A 17th century watercolour held by the Metropolitan Museum of Art shows Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati playing chaupar. India is the last country to produce ganjifa playing cards. These mini, but lavish, works of art came to India from Persia, and were enthusiastically adopted by the Mughals. Circular or rectangular in shape, the cards were hand-painted and made from materials such as ivory or tortoise shell. Cheaper sets were made from wood or palm leaf. The suits are crowns, gold and silver coins, swords, servants, harps, documents and stores. Each suit has two court cards – a King and a Vizier. The objective of ganjifa is to win the most cards by taking tricks. At its simplest, on every turn each player discards a card, and the player who plays the highestranking card takes the trick – with one rule: the player holding the highest-outstanding card in any suit is obliged to lead with it. This was just one of a number of games played with ganjifa cards, but many of them have vanished as the rules were never written down.

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February 2015

A game of kho-kho in progress. Photo: www.desinema.com

OUTDOOR GAMES Kho kho is one of the most popular games in India and demands speed, strength and stamina. Played on a rectangular pitch outdoors, it is essentially a game of tag that has evolved into a tactical team game of nine players each. Eight players from the ‘chasing’ team kneel in a row across the centre of the pitch, each player facing the opposite direction from the player next to them. The ninth is the ‘chaser’, and they take position at the end of the row, ready to pursue the ‘defender’, who must last the seven-minute innings without being tagged. The defender can run anywhere around the pitch and through the central row of kneeling chasers. The chaser, though, can only run in one direction around the row, cannot change direction or cut through the row. Instead, the chaser changes position with a kneeling team-mate by touching them on the back and shouting ‘kho’ – the attack is built up through a relay of ‘khos’, the chasers changing position fast and furiously as they pursue the defender. The game is won by the team that tags all their opponents in the shortest possible time. Kho kho is played by boys and girls, and inter-school and national championships are now held.

Likewise, strength and agility are required to play kabaddi, which includes elements of wrestling and rugby tackles in this team contact sport. It is said that a military operation that takes place in the Mahabharata is based on kabaddi, and the modern-day objective is still to raid the enemy’s territory. Two teams compete, with seven players on the court, and five held in reserve. They occupy separate halves of the court. One team sends a ‘raider’ into the other team’s half, chanting ‘kabaddi-kabaddi’ and he must tag any of his opponents and return to his half before he runs out of breath. The referee keeps close to ensure he doesn’t take an extra breath. His opponents, meanwhile, unite to try and capture the raider, and prevent him from returning, by tackling and wrestling him to the ground. Each team alternates in sending a raider to their opponents’ half. Players are declared out if they run out of breath, are tagged, or step over the court boundary, although there are regional variations to the rules. Kabaddi has undergone a major revival in recent years, and international tournaments have sprung up with teams competing from Pakistan, Canada, the United States and the

February 2015

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Kabbadi and polo (below) are among indigenous Indian games.

United Kingdom. (Here’s a match being played in Canada: http:// tinyurl.com/GA-sports01.) Gilli danda can be played by any number of participants. One team bats and the other fields. Two wooden sticks are required: one is short, about four inches long and tapers at each end. This is the gilli. The other, the danda, is longer, around two feet. The rules aren’t necessarily the same around the country, but here is one version: The batter places the gilli in a small hole, then, using the danda, in two quick moves flicks the gilli up and then strikes it hard out towards the fielders, who try to catch it before it hits the ground. If caught, the batsman is out. If the gilli isn’t caught, then the batsman drops the danda, and the nearest fielder tosses the gilli back to the batsman, aiming for the danda. The game is scored by measuring the distance from the batter to where the gilli has fallen with the danda (each length of danda equals one point). (This is a popular game amongst children in India, and their older siblings cannot resist it either: http://tinyurl.com/GA-sports02.)

OUTDOOR SPORTS Think of canoe racing, and you will no doubt envisage a fast sprint in a one- or two-man kayak. Now re-imagine that sprint conducted between traditional war canoes that hold 110 oarsmen each, pounding along the usually tranquil backwaters of Kerala, and you have the Vallam kali, or Snake Boat Race, part of the annual Onam festivities in the state. There are four main Snake Boat races, along courses up to 40km in length, which are the highlight of the competitive events that take place on the waters. The most fiercely contested is the Nehru Trophy Boat Race, held on Punnamada

Lake in Alleppey. The oarsmen are urged along by crashing drums and cymbals on board each gorgeously decorated boat, and watched by thousands of locals and visitors. Malla-yuddh is a Sanskrit word that translates as ‘wrestling combat’. Competitive wrestling has existed in India for at least 5,000 years, and professional wrestlers, who represented their kings in matches between rival kingdoms, were held in high esteem. Hanuman, the Monkey God, is worshipped as the patron saint of wrestlers, and there are literary descriptions of wrestling matches in the Ramayana and Mahabharata. These fights would have been extreme versions of the modern sport, encompassing grappling, the breaking of joints, biting, choking and striking pressure points. During the colonial period, malla-yuddh, and its northern derivation, kushti, were regulated. Traditionally, wrestlers lived and trained together, followed strict rules

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February 2015

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THE LITTLE BLACK BOOK OF SPORTS

• The official tournament calendar of the All India Chess Federation lists national competitions at http://www.aicf.in/ calendar. • Visit the website of the eight-city Pro Kabaddi league at http://prokabaddi.com for details. • Look out for The Nehru Trophy Snake Boat Race, which is always held on the second Saturday of August. Visit http:// nehrutrophy.nic.in for details. • View the fixtures list 2014–2015 of the Indian Polo Association at http://ipa. co.in/Fix.htm. • Visit www.kreedagames.com for a wide range of traditional Indian board games.

Photo: Basia Kruszewska

Snake boat race (top) and malla-yudh.

of diet and lifestyle, and devoted their lives to the cause. Matches took place in a clay or dirt pit. The sport has since become marginalised, with tournaments remaining in a few strongholds such as the Punjab, yet these attract competitors from all round the world. (A blog devoted to preserving and promoting traditional Indian wrestling can be found at http:// tinyurl.com/GA-sports04. Through photos and postings, it presents an insight into the modern-day version of this indigenous sport.) India has its own home-grown style of gymnastics, called mallakhamb. The main type of mallakhamb is performed on a vertical wooden pole, but variations include hanging mallakhamb where the performer is suspended, and rope mallakhamb, where the performer strikes various yogic poses without knotting the rope. It was devised by a master wrestler during the 17th century, who responded to the challenge of two unbeaten wrestlers from a neighbouring state by introducing the wooden pole into his training regimen in order to learn from the agility of wild monkeys. The exercises

are complex, requiring the performer to turn, twist, stretch and balance, and tournaments are held across the country. Mallakambh has so increased in popularity in recent years that it has been performed on television talent shows and in a Bollywood movie. (Watch Rajesh Apparao Mudki, considered one of the finest mallakambh performers in India: http://tinyurl. com/GA-sports05.) Let us conclude this brief overview of India’s indigenous sports with the game of kings – polo. A team sport played at speed on horseback, polo was introduced into India from Persia in the 13th century, where it had developed as a training game for cavalry units. Called sagol kangjei in India (literally ‘horse and stick’), polo was enthusiastically adopted by the British tea planters who discovered the game being played in the north-eastern state of Manipur on the region’s indigenous ponies. The Calcutta Polo Club was established in 1862, from where polo spread across northern India – it enjoyed particular patronage from the royal house of Jaipur – to Britain and across the world. The Club created the first rulebook for the sport, and to this day runs the oldest polo competition in the world, the Ezra Cup. Not only did the British endorse the game, they adopted the traditional style of Indian trouser called the churidor in which to play it. Tight around the calf and baggy at the hips, this design was worn and perfected by a younger son of the Maharaja of Jodhpur, himself an avid and successful polo player. To this day the modern form of ‘jodhpurs’ are worn for horse riding.

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February 2015

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Look Who’s In Town Pune

The Pune Foodie Sarah Vasterling-Tulsani from the Netherlands believes that food is the best cure for homesickness, and takes us around her favourite cure-spots in Pune When Sarah is not to be found at her favourite chaat corner in Pune, the Dutch woman is at her computer – updating her blog (www.dutchndesi.com) with her latest discoveries in India. Her move from hometown Maastricht to Pune happened a year ago, when she married Deepak, an Indian. She reminisces, “In the beginning, the chaos of traffic and the enormity of the city got to me. Now, after one year, I can confidently say that I made Pune my home. I’m starting to know my way around the city using all the known eateries and restaurants as my point of reference.” Sarah enjoys cooking as much as she enjoys eating out, “In India, dinners are not so much different in comparison to the Netherlands – a major difference is eating with the hands (right hand). It was hard to get used to in the beginning, leaving a trail of dirty napkins on the table. Practice made me improve this.”

Pune Favourites Here are my favourite restaurants in Pune (not listed in any particular order). •

Copa Cabana – The menu has everything you can wish for. Both vegetarian and non-vegetarian. The kosha murgh is mouth watering!

•

Sukanta – The thali you get here is to die for! The menu changes every day, you never know what you will get, but satisfaction is absolutely guaranteed.

•

Little Italy – Whenever I am in the mood for Italian, this is the place I go to. Most of the pasta is freshly made. The tiramisu is their best offering and is not to be shared!

•

German Bakery – The sachertorte served is the perfect medicine for homesickness – with just the right amount of chocolate (and calories!) to take my mind of things.

Pick the Right Place When I am looking to try out a new restaurant, my approach in India is no different than anywhere else. •

Is the restaurant busy? That usually means that the food is good and freshly made.

•

If you cannot handle spices, ask for a less spicy version of the dish you’re after.

•

Do not shy away from the local food. Try the chaats (snacks) stands serving pani puri, sev puri, ragda patties, dabheli and missal pav on the streets as well.

When in Maastricht In Maastricht, I love going out for dinner to one of the many restaurants or pubs and watch the people walk by. Summer is a lovely time to sit outside. Must-try restaurants include •

La Bodega – My all-time favourite! The place is really tiny, so reservations are a must. Everything is Spanish, including the handsome waiter!

•

Ristorante Quattro Mori – The best Italian restaurant in the city centre, with the best pizza outside of Italy.

•

Coffee lovers - Without my daily dose(s) of caffeine I don’t function. The Dominicaner Church had a make-over and serves now as a coffee shop and a bookstore.

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February 2015

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February Calendar of events

Presenting the best of India’s events in different categories across Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai and nearby suburbs

Art & Exhibitions

Indo-Korean Ceramic Exhibition Chennai

Exhibition of Terracotta sculptures Delhi

‘Ceramic Connect’ is an Indo-Korean ceramic exhibition showcasing the work of Indian and Korean ceramic artists. Indian artists who have either trained, or are living, in Auroville, and Korean artists will be participating in this exhibition. The event will be a precursor to the Auroville Festival in Chennai in the month of March.

‘Postponed Poems’ is a solo show of terracotta sculptures and drawings by Delhi-based artist Manjunath Kamath. The artist’s distinctive imagery is rich with the narratives of everyday life, interwoven with mythologies and stories. Visit www.galleryespace.com for more details.

Date: February 23 to March 5 Venue: Lalit Kala Akademi

Date: January 16 to February 28 Venue: Gallery Espace, 16, Community Centre, New Friends Colony Time: 1100h to 1900h

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February 2015

Events

Kala Ghoda Arts Festival Mumbai

Music and Dance show Bengaluru

The Kala Ghoda Arts Festival, in its 16th edition, will herald vibrancy, drama and colours of Mumbai’s historic precincts – the Kala Ghoda art district. The festival will feature a kaleidoscope of music, dance, theatre, literature, street stalls, films, heritage walks and workshops for adults and children. The festival is open to all and is free of charge. Funds raised from the festival go towards the restoration and upkeep of the area. Several heritage buildings and institutions in the area have benefited from this.

Bhoomija Trust presents a jugalbandhi of two veterans from the music and dance fields. Carnatic singer Aruna Sairam and Bharatanatyam dancer Malavika Sarukkai will come together for a unique concert. The show, titled ‘Sammohanam’, is a rare event combining two eminent talents and a treat for the senses. Book your tickets on www. bookmyshow.com

Date: February 7 to 15 Venue: across Mumbai’s Kala Ghoda district

Sale of Limited-edition Art prints Chennai Tara Books, an independent publisher of picture books for adults and children, will host a sale of limited-edition art prints. The publishing house is known for pioneering work with the folk and tribal traditions of India. The themes covered in these limited-edition prints include nature and scenes from everyday life of the artists. The sale will provide an additional source of income for the artists. Visit www.tarabooks.com for more details or call +91 44 42601033 for more details. Date: Till February 28 Venue: Tara Books, Book Building, Plot no: 9, CGE Colony, Thiruvanmiyur Time: Monday to Saturday, 1000h to 1930h

Date: March 6 and 8 Venue: MLR Convention Centre, JP Nagar, South Bengaluru/Chowdiah Memorial Hall Time: 1900h

February 2015

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Dance Theatre Chennai

Theatre for Children Chennai

Eminent dancer Vani Ganapathy will present her new production, Dwaaram – a musical dance theatre, with artist Sathyanarayana Raju. The name translates to ‘door’ in Sanskrit and the production tells the autobiography of a door and its fascinating impressions and reminiscences. All are welcome.

Helios Theatre from Germany will present a theatre programme for children above two years of age. The show, directed by Barbara Kolling, is called ‘Ha zwei ohh/ H2O’ and will be about water and the surprises that remain to this day a mystery to scientists. The duration of the show is 30 minutes. All are welcome.

Date: February 6 Venue: Narada Gana Sabha, TTK Road Time: 1900h

Date: February 14 Venue: Spaces, 1, Elliot’s Beach Road, Besant Nagar Time: 0430h

Music Festival Delhi The Shriram Bharatiya Kala Kendra is hosting the 68th edition of its annual Shriram Shankarlal Music Festival. The festival features artistes from the Indian classical performing arts, mythological, contemporary and folk productions too. This year’s line-up includes a santoor concert by Pandit Shiv Kumar Sharma and a flute concert by Hari Prasad Chaurasia. Passes for the concert will be available at the Shriram Bharatiya Kala Kendra, Delhi from February 15 onwards. Call +91 11 43503333 for more details. Date: February 20 to 22 Venue: Kamani Auditorium, 1, Copernicus Marg

Attakalari India Dance Biennial Bengaluru Attakalari India Biennial is South Asia’s largest contemporary dance festival and acts as an international hub for encounters and exchanges between artistes, organisations and ideas. The seventh edition of this event is centred on the theme ‘Dance Connect’, with cutting-edge works from across the world. Visit www.attakkalari.org for more details. Date: February 6 to 15 Venue: Across Bengaluru city

French Film Festival Bengaluru Alliance Francaise de Bangalore will organise a screening of selected French films as part of ‘My French Film Festival’. The festival is an innovative concept, with the goal of showcasing young generation of French filmmakers and enabling Internet users all over to share their love of French cinema. In its fifth edition this year, the festival will include 10 French features and 10 French short films. Date: February 2 and 16 Venue: Alliance Francaise Auditorium

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February 2015

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Spotlight by Team Culturama

Khajuraho Dance Festival

February 20 to 26

Photo: Avehi Menon

Photo: Bart Pagoda

The Khajuraho Festival of Dance is an annual celebration of the most beautiful dance forms of India. The weeklong extravaganza will showcase the rich cultural heritage of India through dance performances. Khajuraho was the capital of one of the most powerful Rajput dynasties of Central India. The temple town has groups of temples that are made in sandstone and have enchanting sculptures. The dance festival is held in an open air auditorium, usually with the Surya temple (dedicated to the Sun God) in the backdrop. Indian mythology is full of stories of Gods who are versatile in different forms of dancer. Lord Krishna is for his graceful moves, while Lord Shiva expresses all emotions, including anger, through this medium. Indian dance forms have been inspired by all aspects of these mythological stories, and every style of Indian dance is represented at the Khajuraho dance festival. Leading artistes from different genres such as bharatanatyam, kuchipudi, odissi, kathak and even contemporary dance forms stage their performances here. Along with the performances, there is also an open air market selling local crafts, so there is truly something for everyone.

While in Khajuraho... -

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Catch the sound and light show that narrates the history of the Khajaraho group of temples to classical Indian soundtracks. Shilpagram at Khajuraho is a place to visit for cultural performances and shop for tribal handicrafts. The Panna National Park is just 25 km away from Khajuraho and is a must visit from here.

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February 2015

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Seeing India by Preeti Verma Lal

somewhere over the rainbow Take a balloon ride over the Sahaydri mountain range, chew on chiki and watch the clouds go by. Oh, and look out for angels!

Will you fly if I tell you that your flying machine is made of fabric and not hardened metal? That engineers do not hunch over it in a Boeing factory hangar. Instead, 6,500 metres of fabric is stitched by a seamstress – on a sewing machine, the kind on which your pyjamas are sewn! This flying machine has no seat belts. No seats either. You stand in it. Unharnessed. Wait – no toilet either. No cabin crew to serve munchies and tomato juice. Only a pilot. And two colossal LPG cylinders. That’s jet fuel – not in a hidden-in-thebelly tank, but right by your feet. And yes, the runway is not macadamised. You take off from a barren patch of land and do not know exactly where you will land. The wind could take you (the flying machine) miles away from the scheduled landing point. I had all this and much more hot air balloon ‘fear factor’ running in my head as the car burnt tyres on the Old Pune road in Lonavala, a hill station that sits almost equidistant between Pune and Mumbai. It was 4.30 in the morning and I had rubbed sleep off for a hot air balloon ride – the only one of its kind in southern/western India. The world was still asleep, so was the sun behind the Sahaydri mountain range. Generally, that is how early one steps out for a hot air balloon ride. The balloon takes off with the early morning sun. On the way to the takeoff point, I noticed a million ‘Maganlal chiki’ (peanut and jaggery brittle) signboards that lure many sweet-toothed into Lonavala. But all that was on my mind was a gigantic balloon. Sangram Pawar, Maharashtra partner of Skywaltz, the only fully licensed commercial hot air ballooning company in India, was prepping novices and spewing facts about the first hot air balloon ride – conducted in 1783, which had a duck, a

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February 2015

Photos: Preeti Verma Lal

February 2015

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rooster and a sheep as passengers. The animals landed safely in Paris. So would we. Sangram was drilling courage into firsttimers. This certainly was not my first balloon ride – a first in the Western Ghats, surely. The car screeched to a halt in the middle of nowhere. Literally. It was barren patch of land in Kamshet. All I could see was a careened LPG cylinder spitting fire into the balloon fabric that lay horizontal. Next to it was a massive fan to help inflate the balloon. While the balloon bloated gradually, a Skywaltz employee served tea and coffee and cookies from a makeshift table. Minutes later, the blue balloon looked gargantuan against the pink rays of the near-dawn sky. Skywaltz men were holding down the balloon, which was still tethered to the ground. But, where was the pilot? We wouldn’t fly on our own, would be? Before that question heralded the return of fear, a silhouette emerged out of thin air. He was Hatem Shoheb, the Egyptian hot air balloon pilot – a trained aircraft engineer, he has flown hot air balloons in several countries. This is not his first season in India; he has flown in Jaipur, and during the cattle fair in Pushkar. “Please pay attention,” his voice tore through the silence of Kamshet. “It is a balloon, not a car. There is no manoeuvring wheel. I cannot steer it left/right at will. It all depends on the wind. During landing, bend your knees. Hold on to the ropes. The landing could be bumpy, so pay heed to my instructions during landing.” I bravely hopped into the wicker basket. Hatem cranked the LPG burner to pump in more hot air and I could feel the ground missing beneath my feet. The ascent was so smooth that I forgot I was unfastened. Just standing in a wicker basket made of willow and cane. The balloon was sailing with the wind and we had already touched roughly a 1,000 ft. The world below me was getting smaller, the sun bigger and the air more rarefied. At 3,000 ft, I was not bothered about the no-oxygen-mask fact and a battered lung. Instead, I felt like an eagle flapping over the Indrayani River. The balloon was sailing at a speed of 70 kmph, but it was incredibly efficient. As the balloon glided over villages, children waved excitedly, startled dogs barked raucously, men still in their pjyamas

photographed with their phones and two dark horses in a stud farm galloped randomly. In an hour, we had done 10 km away from the take-off point. Now was the tricky bit – the descent. When Hatem started the descent, I recapped my knee-bending lesson and held on to the basket loop. The closer the balloon got to the ground, the more excited children from the village cheered. They waved and screamed and clapped as if aliens had come home. We landed with a thud, but the balloon dragged on a little on the dewy ground. I held on to the loop tight. The wicker basket had turned turtle. If all the nine passengers alighted at the same time, the semi-deflated balloon would have flown away. We took turns to slide off the basket. Without a disaster. Without a bruise. I hopped out and looked up at the sky where I was sailing a few minutes ago. It felt like heaven, just that I did not catch any angels up there. On a hot air balloon, I had waltzed in the sky. I will do it again. Only if the angels promise to waltz with me.

WHAT TO DO IN LONAVALA

PRICE FOR A BALLOON RIDE

Visit the Celebrity Wax Museum, Tiger’s Point. Aamby

Hot air balloon rides are available at Jaipur, Pushkar,

Valley, Duke’s Nose, and Karla Caves. Have a vegetarian

Ranthambore and Lonavala. For details and discounts, go

meal at Kumar’s. Pick up Maganlal chikis.

to www.skywaltz.com. Couple/group/corporate discounts

Where to stay:

are available. You can also book on bookmyshow.com

Sahil Sarovar is a very good option. High-end

(sports section).

accommodations include Fariyas and Machan.

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February 2015

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Photo: www.teambhp.com

Travelling with an infant limits your choice of holiday destinations – it should be child friendly, easy to reach, close enough to civilisation but not so much that all you get is a vacation in name. Maybe things change when you gain confidence as a mum, but, for now, I wanted to play it safe. We wanted a break from the stifling heat, so my family of three headed to the hills…something not too far, convenient – well, you get the gist. When you think of vacationing in Kerala, the picture that comes to mind is one of lounging in one of the many houseboats that dot the clear backwaters lined by lush greenery. There is more to this picturesque state – the beautiful Western Ghats that offer a cool respite from

the muggy heat and chaotic city life. One such idyllic spot is Vagamon. This small tea plantation town in Kerala’s Idduki district is good for a laidback holiday. A fresh green crisp bite of green replete with rolling meadows, an undulating landscape punctuated by slivers of gushing waterfalls. It was even dubbed ‘Scotland of the East’ (which is, admittedly, a bit of a stretch). Located on the Western Ghats at an altitude of 1,100 metres above sea level, it gives you comfortable temperatures of no more than 23 degrees C during summer and it is much cooler otherwise. If you are travelling by car, the road up hill is scenic as it is curvy. Thankfully, the road has been laid

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February 2015

Seeing India by Prerna Uppal

Kerala's hidden jewel

Vagamon is a closely guarded secret when it comes to favourite holiday destinations – where nature and urban luxuries come together in a comfortable combination

well and the drive is comfortable. A word of caution – though the road may be fine, the people plying on it may not be so. Proceed with caution. One of the first things we did as we entered the town was hire a local guide. While you can always plan ahead by looking up things to do and places to stay in, a local guide, especially in a smaller place like Vagamon, helps, as there may not be enough information available online; and the guide will have a plan prepared for your visit, cover a large area in optimal time, allow you to decide whether you want to see to see a certain destination/activity, will know the best routes possible and, my personal favourite; regale you with the local legends.

En route to the pine forests in Kolahalamedu, we stopped to see a beautiful waterfall – the Shiva-Ganga waterfall, or so our guide informed us (which, I suspect, is known as the Vagamon falls). While I am sketchy on the nomenclature, what I can confirm is that it is a beautiful sight, with water gushing down nine steps before ending up in a pool. Given that I had a little one squirming in my arms, we could only see this natural phenomenon from a distance. I am told the fun thing to do is visit the more well-known Marmala falls – seven kilometres from the Teekoy rubber estate; the falls can be reached after a trek through the estate. The falls are called the enchantress of the jungle, where water gushes down from a height of 200 feet.

February 2015

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Anyway, back to our itinerary – we were headed to the pine forests after passing the Vagamon meadows, which are an assembly of 11 hillocks bereft of any vegetation except for light green grass. A great picnic spot, it is also a popular site for film-making – of the commercial kind. Vagamon, in general, is a popular location with the southern film industry, offering an array of location for shooting – hills, greenery, barren land, forests, waterfalls and the rest. Before I digress yet again, let us steer our attention back to where we were headed – the pine forest. These trees were planted by the British in the 18th century. Wood from here was used for both domestic and commercial purposes, heating and to fuel the tea plantations. The forest is quiet, contrary to the name of its location (kolahal in some Indian languages means ‘noise’), and, unlike a forest, trees are set in straight lines, making it more of a plantation than a forest. Strapping the kid on, we wandered for a while around the slopes. Sure-footedness is recommended as the slopes are covered in fallen pine needles, making it slippery. As the sunrays filter through the leaves, the light at the bottom is mellow and diffused, giving the place a slightly eerie feel. The mood is compounded when the mist creeps in silently. Unfortunately, the mood does not linger for long. As the mists clear, evidence of human arrogance (read waste) is made apparent. The forest floor is littered with plastic and waste – a shame, as otherwise the sylvan retreat is a great place to wander, sit or have a quiet read. Our guide did, however, inform us that plans were afoot to make the pine forest a protected area, which would, hopefully, mean cleaner forest floors and probably an admission charge. Outside the entrance, there is a row of shops selling tea leaves, chocolates and knick-knacks. The tea is said to be from nearby plantations and the chocolates are home-made. The cardamom tea is excellent and the chocolates lovely. There is not much to say about the local cuisine; there is nothing special on offer that is not available elsewhere in southern Kerala. Our final stop was Suicide Point – a V-shaped gorge offering a bird’s eye view of acres of green land below. It is also the venue for paragliding. It has played host to the International Paragliding Festival since 2006. Every year in April, paragliders from India and abroad gather here for a spot of flying. On our visit, it was quiet, with just a few people pottering around. We could just about enjoy the spectacle as the mist was threatening to close in again. Speaking of the mist – very beautiful when you see it arranging itself over valleys and gorges; very scary when you are caught driving through it. As we were nearing our resort, the mist caught up with us, rendering us more or less blind. Thankfully, we were less than a kilometre away from our abode and luckily saw a couple of familiar faces on the way down. They guided us to the resort – something we may not have been able to manage on our own. We headed back home to the foothills the next day, although we would have loved to stay another day to visit more places. Then again, the lovely hill town is just a short car ride away. We will be back. Soon.

TOP SPOTS IN VAGAMON Kurisumala Ashram: The Kurisumala Ashram is a Catholic monastery sitting in 40 acres of land of spectacular greenery. The Cistercian Abbey here was built in 1958 by Abbot Francis Acharya of Belgium and Fr. Brede Griffiths of England. Visit a tea plantation: The major tea estates here are Pulikkanam Estate and MMJ Plantations. A visit to these can be arranged with prior permission. Vagamon is also great for adventure sports and outdoor activities such as mountaineering, trekking, paragliding and cycling. An Internet search will put you in touch with relevant operators. Three hills representing the Hindu, Muslim and Christian heritage of Kerala are located in Vagamon: Thangal Para: A pilgrimage for Muslims, the durgah here is the resting place of Husrath Sheikh Fariduddin Baba, a Sufi saint, who is believed to have come to Kerala from Afghanistan about 800 years ago. Kurisumala: Located about eight km from Vagamon, the hill bearing the Cross is a Christian pilgrimage spot. Especially popular during Easter, Kurisumala attracts thousands of devotees to the church. Murugan Para: To the east of Kurisumala is Murugan Para, a hill that houses a rock-cut temple dedicated to Lord Muruga. Hundreds of devotees visit the place every year.

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February 2015

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Picture Story by Team Culturama

The Road Less

Travelled Every year, Global Adjustments’ Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition throws up beautiful images of this multifaceted country – each of them tell a unique story from the eyes and views of the visitor. Some of these may be oft-seen places, people or things, but many are little known or even forgotten. We have curated some images that are from places off the beaten track – some of which will make you sit up and wonder how you never noticed these little gems. Explore, enjoy.

Shettihalli Hassan Karnataka

Photo: Bipin Khimasia, Canada

The Rosary Church in the town of Shettihalli Hassan rises each year like the Phoenix – not from ashes but from the waters of the Gorur Dam. This nearly 150-year-old church, built on the banks of the Hemavathy River, remains under water for most of the year, and rises every summer.

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February 2015

Kipling Gardens Mumbai

Photo: Jean Denis Lenoir, France

In one of the oldest areas of Mumbai is the first museum for Rudyard Kipling of The Jungle Book fame. Inside the JJ School of Art lies a 150-year-old bungalow where the writer spent his childhood. The rundown place also has some curious sights to see – like the one in this picture.

Rameswaram

Bibi Ka Maqbara

Tamil Nadu

Aurangabad

Photo: Prashanth Mangal

The Pamban Bridge, India’s first bridge on the sea, was built a century ago. It connects the island of Rameswaram with the mainland. Rameswaram plays an important part in the epic Ramayana, and includes ‘land’s end’ or Dhanushkodi, where the Indian Ocean and the Bay of Bengal meet.

Photo: Culturama archives

While the Taj was built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan for his wife, this monument was commissioned by his son, Aurangazeb, for his wife. Regarded as a ‘poor cousin’ of the Taj, the Bibi Ka Maqbara, located in Aurangabad, Maharashtra, is only partially made of marble.

Tranquebar Tamil Nadu

Photo: Rod Hudson

Tranquebar or Tarangambadi was an active international trading point. The quaint seaside town boasts of many heritage buildings from the time of Danish settlements. It also is the place where the first copy of the New Testament in the Tamil language was printed in the early 18th century.

February 2015

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The Lighter Side by Marina Marangos

The Fog

Wars

Photo: Brian Jolley

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In the United Kingdom, column inches are devoted to the weather. People bridge any divide at the bus stop moaning about how wet it is or how dry it has become. The weather is the national past time – and perhaps deservedly so, as there isn’t much good weather around so people resort to a good outpouring of emotion on it. Painters depict scenes of winter blues and fog shrouding the town. You see it and definitely feel it, so perhaps I was expecting that I would have a similar reaction to the weather in India. Half expecting, perhaps, that I would engage my vegetable seller in some banter about the forecast or my driver about how wet the roads were. This simply does not happen though. I don’t know any Indian painters who have painted wintry desultory scenes of cold and mist. In fact, if anything, I could say the painters set out to paint a very different picture – water gardens, sitting under the shade of the Bodhi tree, wearing scant clothes. You get my drift. So, let me quickly disabuse you of a myth. India is hot – yes, sometimes. Quite a lot of the time, in fact, but there are seasons that somehow don’t feature on the calendar at all. One is the cold season I spoke about in a recent article but the other one, which no one prepares you for, is the soup that descends on Delhi round about January/February. You throw open the curtains or draw up the blinds, and there it is a whole lot of soup staring at you, provocatively, thickly and menacingly. You stare back – if only looks could kill – but, sadly, it is too opaque, too thick, too menacing to be effective. What happens on the road is what I can happily or eerily regale you with, which is that setting off anywhere on anything is like taking your life into your hands and throwing it down one of the unsuspecting open sewers

February 2015

The popular myth is that India is hot, yes, but there are seasons that somehow don’t feature on the calendar. And no one prepares you for the expanse of grey that descends on Delhi round about January/February you will inevitably come across. Dark, damp and a little disconcerting. Forget the Hunger Games or The Texan Chain Saw Massacre, this is far more frightening and you are completely at the mercy of the elements – or, should I say, element. The fog grounds most flights, disturbs trains too, although less so, is terrifying on a bus or vehicle of any description and is open to encounters of the third or even fourth kind. So, with the driver firmly gripping the wheel and lights full on, he confidently reassures me that we shall get to our destination in due course, albeit a little slowly. How slowly, of course, was not elaborated on nor were the frequent encounters with bikes, trikes and the occasional elephant. You see it is practically impossible to see an obstacle ahead in the soup before you are firmly upon it. The elephant didn’t take it too kindly and proceeded to trumpet its disapproval. Honking of course is all the rage in Delhi and I never thought I would say this but hooting was definitely the preferred option of survival on days when the fog descends on Delhi.

February 2015

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Photo: Ran Levy, UK

Festival of the month by Team Culturama

Maha Shivaratri February 17 Among many stories as to why Maha Shivaratri is celebrated (refer to Myth & Mythology on Page 66 for some of these), the most popular one is the marriage of Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. The marriage symbolises the union of passive and dynamic energy that the two represent. It is believed that fasting through the night and spending the time in prayer will release one from the karmic cycle of life. Hence, devotees stay awake and chant verses from the scriptures in praise of Lord Shiva. The Mahabharata, the world’s longest epic, also mentions the Shivaratri, thus making it a centuries-old ritual. Here is a glimpse of how India celebrates Maha Shivarathri. Himachal Pradesh: The town of Mandi in Himachal Pradesh is known for the annual week-long fair that begins with Shivaratri. Idols of gods and goddesses from more than 80 temples across Mandi are taken out in a procession as part of this event. The main deity of the festival is, of course, Lord Shiva, in the Bhoothnath Temple in Mandi.

Kerala: The bank of the river Periyar in Aluva is where the grand celebration takes place. The idol of Lord Shiva, made from sand on the river’s bank, is worshipped by thousands of pilgrims. The festival is attended by devotees and tourists alike, who partake of the rituals and patronise the makeshift shops that are set up along the beach. The Shivaratri procession at the Thrikkurati Temple is known for its spectacular display of sound and fireworks. Tamil Nadu: The Rameswaram Temple in the southern tip of the state is one of the venerated Shiva temples in the state. Another major event is the Isha Yoga Foundation’s celebration of the sacred night at the foothills of Velliangiri Mountains in Coimbatore. The celebrations begin with worship at the unique Dhyanalingam Yogic Temple at the foundation. More details can be found at www.ishafoundation.org. Karnataka: The Sri Sri Ravishankar Ashram in Bengaluru, Karnataka, holds a special meditation session called ‘Rudra Puja’. More details can be found at www.artofliving.org. Central India: Ujjain’s Mahakaleshwar Temple is one of Central India’s most significant Shiva temples where Mahashivaratri is celebrated with religious fervour. Some of the other famous temples where the festival is held are the Tilwara Ghar in Jabalpur and the Math Temple in Seoni.

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February 2015

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Give to India by Shefali Ganesh

The Firefly Fellowship

The Agastya International Foundation, based in Bengaluru, holds the key to transforming the education scene in rural India At the intersection of three southern states of India – Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka and Tamil Nadu – lies a serene campus of 172 acres in a place called Kuppam. The serenity belies the fact that the campus is the nerve centre of creativity and development. The green expanse holds one of the world’s most advanced yet indigenous science centre for children – the Agastya International Foundation runs this unique hands-on learning programme. Significantly named after Sage Agastya (who is said to be the ‘father’ of Tamil language), the foundation aims to provide a new dimension to grassroots learning for disadvantaged children.

The Agastya Foundation was founded in 1999 by social entrepreneur Ramji Raghavan in a bid to foster creativity and curiosity in children. This is now the core philosophy of the Foundation. Ramji’s ambition to mould future leaders from these children by igniting the creative spark in them and transforming their thinking is seen in action at the Centre. The chief beneficiaries of the programme are children from economically weak backgrounds, mostly from rural India. In the age group of 6 to 18, these children study in government schools and have no access to technology or science labs. The Kuppam Centre is one of the few ‘science museums’ in India that train children through science models, arts, ecology and astronomy. The Centre’s science models have been developed over the years by leading Indian scientists and are designed to complement the government schools’ curriculum. Initially a large piece of uninhabited land, the Foundation has created a natural eco-lab out of the Kuppam Centre, where children can study Nature and her miracles. The Kuppam Centre is accessible to children studying in government schools located within a 50 km radius. Children from urban private schools also visit the Centre for scientific learning and to get a glimpse of rural India. For those who may have discontinued their studies, or are living too far away, there are mobile science lab vans – there are 150 vans spread over 15 states, and they carry more than 100 low-cost

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science experiments to children in remote places. The Agastya Mobile night labs reach out to children as well as their parents, who are primarily labourers, carpenters and construction workers. The parents have to be convinced of the need for education outside the school. The Foundation also hit upon the idea of mini science labs-on-motorcycles – with ‘experiments in a box’ that are taken to schools or distributed among government school teachers. To help keep up this massive network of activities, Agastya relies on an uber-enthusiastic instructor force. Because they help these firefly-like children to sparkle, the instructors are called ‘igniters’. Ramji elaborates on the ‘qualifications’ they look for in these ‘igniters’: “They need to have a B.E.E degree – Bachelor of Energy and Enthusiasm! The igniters are people who are inspired and genuinely believe in spreading curiosity and learning, with joy.” The igniters are monitored and supported by a master training group of senior instructors. Agastya has pioneered an effective model of ‘Young Instructor Leader’ (YIL) – senior children who are handpicked to be trained as instructors and spread their learning to the juniors in their community/village. All experiments are low-cost, live demonstrations of aspects of science that children can easily connect to. The Agastya Foundation reaches more than one million children through 20,000 teachers each year. Many a budding scientist has been nurtured by the Agastya Foundation in rural India. A YIL today, Geetha, who is from a neighbouring village, discovered her talent for observation at the Agastya Centre – she found out that the ‘energy drink’ farmers carry to fields, a mixture of jowar and buttermilk, does not spoil for a week. Her experiments revealed that the mixture contained a natural souring agent that acts as a preservative! While Geetha may find her future in the food technology industry, there are many that, as Ramji would put it, are on the way to “discovering their ‘Ha! –Aha! – HaHa!’ moment”. The Agastya Foundation is rewriting the ‘3 Rs’ of education to the ‘3 Ha’s’ of igniting sparks. Visit www.agastya.org for more details.

February 2015

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Myth and Mythology by Devdutt Pattanaik

The Eternal Balance Shivaratri is all about contemplating on how to achieve the balance between mortal desires and immortal bliss, material needs and spiritual demands

Photo: Cassia Reis, Brazil

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Why is Shivaratri one of the few Hindu festivals to be celebrated in the not-so-auspicious dark half of the lunar cycle? Why is it celebrated just as winter draws to a close? These are questions to which ‘real’ answers may never be known. However, one can always speculate. Speculation helps one explore sacred mysteries and thus gain insight into the Divine. The traditional story is that, on this night, a thief climbed a bilva tree, which is sacred to Shiva, to give his pursuers the slip. He spent the whole night on the tree, plucking leaves that – unknown to him – fell on a Shiva linga. This act of unintended piety earned the thief an eternal place in the lord’s heart. Stories running along these lines are narrated on Shivaratri as devotees hold an all-night-vigil in Shiva temples. But these narratives tell us why Shiva should be worshipped during Shivaratri. They do not tell us what makes Shivaratri sacred. One story, popular in some parts of South India, says that it was on this night that Shiva drank halahala, the cosmic poison churned by the gods and demons from the ocean of milk. The goddess Parvati did not want the poison to enter her husband’s body, so she caught hold of Shiva’s neck. The gods did not want Shiva to spit the poison out. So they began singing songs in praise of Shiva. With bated breath, the gods stayed awake wondering how Shiva could save the world without annoying his wife. Finally, at dawn, Shiva locked the poison in his throat for eternity until it turned his neck blue. The all-night vigil on Shivaratri commemorates Shiva’s benevolence. The unconventional tradition of worshipping Shiva in the dark half of the lunar cycle is not surprising considering there is nothing conventional about Shiva. He is the only god who does not adorn himself with flowers or jewels. He smears his body with ash, wraps himself with elephant hide and tiger skin and bedecks himself with serpents, wild dhatura flowers and rudraksha beads. He intoxicates himself with hemp, is surrounded by wild and fearsome Ganas and lives on icy barren mountains. The crescent moon on his head – the same moon that can be seen in the skies on Shivaratri – offers another possible reason why the 13th night of the waning moon is sacred to Shiva.

February 2015

The moon god Chandra was married to the 27 nakshatras, lunar asterisms, but he preferred only the company of Rohini. The neglected wives complained to their father, Prajapati Daksha, who ordered Chandra to change his ways. When the moon god did not, he was struck with the dreaded wasting disease. As the days passed, Chandra’s lustre waned. No one came to his rescue for fear of incurring Daksha’s wrath. In despair, Chandra turned to Shiva who placed the moon god on his forehead where Daksha’s curse had no effect. The crescent-moon on Shiva’s head is a reminder of how Shiva’s grace saved the moon god from oblivion. Those who fear death, those who cannot come to terms with the fleeting nature of existence therefore take refuge in the cosmic ascetic who has transcended the eternal cycle of birth and death. In Tantra, the moon represents the cooler, submissive and fleeting aspect of Nature. The sun represents the warmer, dominating and eternal aspect of Nature. Together they represent the totality of life, the union of opposites. While Shiva represents lunar energy, Vishnu represents the solar. Shiva transcends worldly life, Vishnu actively participates in it. Shiva did not want to marry but Vishnu coaxed him into the cycle of existence. In Shiva’s willingness to be Devi’s groom one finds the reason why Maha Shivaratri is celebrated just before the arrival of spring. It must be remembered that in the Hindu calendar, the festival that follows Shiva’s holy night is Holi, the festival of fertility, love and joy. Shiva’s marriage to Parvati is a major theme of Shaiva lore and is often narrated during Shivaratri. The union transforms the hermit into the householder and couples world-rejection with world-affirmation. With the Devi by his side, the yogi becomes a bhogi (loosely translated to mean ‘householder’). A balance is achieved between the spirit and the flesh, the ego and the infinite. Maybe that is what Shivaratri is all about. A time to stay awake through the night contemplating on the dualities of life – of mortal desires and immortal bliss, earthly obligations and heavenly aspirations, material needs and spiritual demands. When the balance is met, when Shiva is in the arms of Shakti, when the dance is in perfect harmony, there is truth, awareness and bliss – sat, chit, anand.

Published on February 15, 1999, in The Speaking Tree. Reprinted with permission from www.devdutt.com

February 2015

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Holistic living by Eknath Easwaran

When it comes to our relations with the guiding principle of the universe, God is kind enough to spell out to us, who tend to be forgetful of these things, just what we can do to return these magnificent favours

Photo: Carlo Sem, Italy

The Noble Path

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February 2015

5 Join Us Every Saturday

“At the time of creation,” the Bhagavad Gita says, “the Lord gave humanity the path of selfless service.” In other words, we are not given life for our own enjoyment. Our highest duty is to give back to life. Life is a trust, and each of us is a trustee whose job is to use the assets entrusted to us for the greatest benefit to all. It follows that the real mark of an educated man or woman is not university degrees but how much they contribute to the welfare of others, and the question to ask at graduation is not “What job will bring me the best salary or the most prestige?” but “How can I help to make the world a little better for my having lived?” In the Bhagavad Gita, Sri Krishna tells Arjuna, who represents you and me, “I have asked the sun to give you life, the sea to give you water, the clouds to give you rain, the winds to purify the air you breathe, and the trees and plants to give you food. I have asked all the forces of nature to give you everything to satisfy your needs. Therefore, if you try to live for yourself without returning this to me – drinking my water, eating my food, doing everything with my energy all the twenty-four hours – what is the difference between you and a thief?” When the Lord hits hard like this, I imagine Arjuna scratching his head self-consciously like Laurel of Laurel and Hardy used to do. It is as if he were thinking out loud, “I never thought of it like that before!” It is easy to identify with Arjuna’s embarrassment. Sri Krishna is appealing to our sense of dignity and self-respect in order to encourage us. Nobody likes being a parasite. Everybody likes to contribute something. When people do you a favour, you like to find a way of doing them a favour in return. And when it comes to our relations with the guiding principle of the universe, Sri Krishna is kind enough to spell out to us human beings, who tend to be forgetful of these things, just what we can do in order to return these magnificent favours. We can use the energy he gives us, he says, to live for all, thereby promoting the cause of unity among all creatures. This is far more than a subtle hint. In no uncertain terms the Lord is letting us know that this is his law, the underlying law of life. To the extent we live in accordance with this law,

India Immersion Centre in Chennai facilitates a weekly spiritual fellowship group following Easwaran’s Eight Point Programme of Meditation. E-mail us for more information at globalindian@globaladjustments.com. If you are in other cities, visit www.easwaran.org for e-satsangs.

everything will tend to work in our favour, and thus to favour the whole. All we have to do is live by the rule. In this sense, none of us is ever unemployed. We always have a job to do. We are sent into life for one task: to enrich the lives of others. First, Do No Harm The very first criterion for a good job in the Gita’s view, then, is that it not be at the expense of others. The Buddha considered this so important that he made Right Occupation part of his Eightfold Noble Path. It reminds me of the physician’s oath: “First, do no harm.” I think that is a very good oath for all of us to swear by. If we want to improve the quality of our lives, the very first step is to be sure that our livelihood is not gained at the expense of life. Any job that brings injury or suffering to any other creature should be shunned as unworthy of a human being. “All creatures love life,” the Buddha says. “All creatures fear death. Therefore do not kill, or cause another to kill.” Even if we only lend support to activities that bring harm to other people or other creatures, we are violating the most basic law of life. I am a vegetarian, for example, not merely because of age-old custom, but because I know that the divinity that is present in my heart and yours is present in every living thing. When we begin to look at life this way, we may well find that we have got ourselves involved unwittingly in work that the Buddha would call “wrong occupation”. This can be a distressing discovery with very awkward consequences. There is no point in blaming ourselves if we find that in ignorance of the unity of life, we have taken up a job that is at the expense of life. Yet once we realise this, it is incumbent on each of us to withdraw from such activities, even if that entails a cut in pay or a turbulent period of looking for work where we can use our skills in more beneficial ways.

Reprinted with permission from ‘Spiritual Revolution’, an article by Eknath Easwaran from The Blue Mountain Journal. Copyright The Blue Mountain Center of Meditation, P.O. Box 256, Tomales, CA 94971, www.easwaran.org. (Extract from http://www.easwaran.org/spiritual-revolution.html)

February 2015

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Poornashakti was inaugurated by visually-impaired motivational singerspeaker Ilango; members participate in a wide variety of activities.

At Global Adjustments by Team Culturama

The Silver Lining

The India Immersion Centre, the NGO arm of Global Adjustments recently initiated a special initiative in Chennai for senior citizens, called Poornashatki. This monthly forum will act as a club and platform for elderly citizens to meet and greet peers. Interacting with like-minded people, learning and inspiring each other alongside entertainment and listening to expert speakers have been set as the agenda for the first few months. The forum was launched by Ilango, a multi-faceted personality and achiever who is visually impaired. The second session included games and activities that brought out thought-provoking messages. Poornashakti, with its motto to ‘Link, Learn and Leave a legacy’ is set to make a difference to senior citizens and through them to the younger generations. The upcoming Poornashakti events will be held on February 13 and March 13. If you wish to join, please call Usha Ramakrishnan at 9840520394 or Brinda Iyer at 9840495367. Email queries can be sent to iic@globaladjustments.com.

WHAT THEY SAID “I have had the pleasure of coming to the two Poornashakthi sessions that have been held under the auspices of Global Adjustments. Both were enriching experiences for me. Not that we do not meet persons of our age in our day-today lives, but they are usually chance encounters where mere smiles or a few polite words are exchanged. These sessions, on the other hand, promote among the members of the group a sense of belonging and enable them to meet in a convivial atmosphere, taking part in guided activities conducted by interested and perhaps trained personnel and altogether spend time agreeably.” - C.G. Rishikesh

“Poornashakthi creates an opportunity to meet, observe, understand and gain the very valuable virtues of very great personalities from different walks of life. The sessions are interesting, informative and make us feel very comfortable and intimate with the participants and also with the organisers. Thanks to Global Adjustments for giving me this wonderful opportunity.” - Dr. Shyama Swaminathan

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February 2015

Global Wellness Series

Thyro â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Care The mention of thyroid conjures up images of a swollen neck and lifelong medication. However, thyroid problems are easy to diagnose and treat. The thyroid is a butterfly shaped gland in the front of our neck. The thyroid produces two important hormones-T4 and T3 (thyroid hormone) which circulate in the blood. The thyroid gland is controlled by the pituitary gland in the brain by producing a hormone called Thyroid Stimulating Hormone (TSH). The hormone controls our metabolism and has an impact on all our cells and body functions. It is necessary for memory, energy levels, bone marrow function, proper functioning of the heart and proper

Clearing the myths associated with Thyroid and the treatment to be taken

movement of our intestine. A common reason for hypothyroidism is autoimmune thyroid problem. Sometimes, the gland may not have formed well at birth or may have been removed surgically. Also, the pituitary gland may be under-active and produce insufficient TSH. Diagnosing thyroid problems usually requires a simple blood test. Women tend to have thyroid problems more often than men. If untreated, this can lead to difficulty with conception and miscarriages. Children can also develop thyroid problems â&#x20AC;&#x201C; they should be given thyroid supplements. A person with a thyroid problem can grow, marry, have children and lead a very normal productive and long life.

February 2015

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February 2015

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February 2015

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