Culturama February 2014 by Rohini Manian

culturama February 2014 Volume 4, Issue 12

your cultural gateway to india

Call of the dunes

Explore the fascinating Thar Desert through the lens of myth, history and culture.

In conversation with Mr. Kyungsoo Kim, Korean Consul General to India, about the traits that make a global citizen.

Rumi's quotes lend life to a selection of images that express love in its myriad forms in this month's Picture Story.

Seoul Talk

Say It With Love

Rs 40

February 2014

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February 2014

Dear readers, Appa and Amma — Tamil for ‘mom’ and ‘dad’ — are the same in Korean too. I discovered this when we chatted with the new Consul General of South Korea, Kyongsoo Kim, who has established the first diplomatic mission in Chennai — the city where over 4,000 South Koreans live, thanks to the presence of Hyundai. With over 10,000 Koreans having adopted India as their temporary home nation-wide, and trade flourishing between our two countries, it is time to focus on similarities even as we leverage the differences to work towards the betterment of both countries. This is what we set out to do in the eye-opener interview with the Korean Thought Leader in this issue of Culturama. This interview was perfectly timed to coincide with the official visit of Park Geun-hye, South Korea's first woman President, to India in mid-January. Her visit sets off a trend for a lasting love affair between both nations. Love is in the air — after all, with Valentine’s Day round the corner, what else would be on our minds? In our Picture Story, we have put together a mosaic of some entries from the Annual Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition, along with quotes on love by famed Persian poet Rumi. This beautiful emotion is also embodied in the tales and fables that originated in the deserts of our land. Speaking of which, did you know that the Thar Desert is a land of contrasts? Read about it in our Feature. For those bitten by the travel bug, this is a perfect place to plan your next holiday to. There is also Karadi Malai Camp — a wildlife haven some 60 km away from Chennai — where you can get away from it all, or even satisfy your love for adventure by going on a trek with local Irula snake catchers.

For those who prefer adventures of the culinary kind, we have included a couple of recipes from the Telugu Brahmin community to whet your appetite, and remind you as to why chilli is truly the must-have spice for a tasty meal. Good food, mind-enriching conversation and eyeopening travel — all these are but some elements that go a long way to adding happiness to our lives. And, all said and done, be happy. After all, it is our own inner happiness that manifests as love, isn’t it? Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief globalindian@globaladjustments.com

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Credits

Letters to the editor Cover image Thorsten Vieth

Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Associate Editor Yamini Vasudevan

Dear Editor,

“I received your January (2014) issue of Culturama, which had Viswanathan Anand as Guest Editor. You really do a great job! Congrats!” – Ravi Venkatesan, former Chairman, Microsoft India

Business Head Sheeba Radhamohan Editorial Coordinator Shefali Ganesh

Dear Editor,

Senior Designer Prem Kumar

“Thank you for your interview with author John Gray in the December (2013) issue. I had heard of his book, Men Are From Mars, Women Are From Venus, but it was intriguing to learnof his spiritual connection to India. His perspectives on gender differences are interesting, but it was his message of non-judgement and acceptance of differences that really made an impression.”

Circulation Manager Jaya Banala Advertising Bengaluru Subha Seetharam Delhi/NCR Ruchika Srivastava Mumbai/Pune Farah Bakshay, Rachana Sinha To subscribe to this magazine, write to circulation@globaladjustments.com or access it online at www.culturama.in Chennai (Headquarters) 5, 3rd Main Road, R A Puram, Chennai – 600028 Telefax +91-44-24617902 Email culturama@globaladjustments.com Bengaluru 17/16,“Brown Nugget”, Ali Asker Road, Off. Cunningham Road, Bengaluru – 560 052 Mobile +91 99869 60316 Email culturamablr@globaladjustments.com Delhi-NCR Level 4, Augusta Point, DLF Golf Course Road, Sector-53, Gurgaon – 122002 Tel +91-124-4354236 Email del@globaladjustments.com Mumbai Rustom Court, 2nd Floor, Dr. Annie Besant Road, Worli, Mumbai – 400030 Tel +91-22-66104191/92 Email mum@globaladjustments.com Pune CTS No. 37/1, Bund Garden Road, Next to Jehangir Hospital, Pune – 411001 Mobile +91-9545453023 Email pune@globaladjustments.com Published and owned by Ranjini Manian at #5, 3rd Main Road, Raja Annamalai Puram, Chennai – 600028, and printed by K Srinivasan of Srikals Graphics Pvt Ltd at #5, Balaji Nagar, 1st Street, Ekkattuthangal, Chennai – 600032 Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Disclaimer Views and opinions expressed by writers do not necessarily reflect the publisher’s or the magazine’s.

ERRATA In our December (2014) issue, in 'The Year That Was' column on page 17, we erroneously stated that the advance amount received by author Amish Tripathi was $50 million. It should have been Rs. 5 crore or $1 million. We regret the error.

– Erin Golsen, USA

Dear Editor,

“Lovely to see the cover of the December (2013) issue of Culturama featuring the photo of a child sitting in a basket. It was a great issue! The basket was one of many made by the self-help group of Chennai Cheshire Home to help women affected by the tsunami. The initiative helped support over 100 fishing families along the ECR.” – Maureen Hudson Murari, India

Dear Editor,

“In the January (2014) issue, the article 'Tuning our mind' under the Holistic Living section was really a nice one.” – Vidya, India

Look out for icons On our website and in our magazine we are now using the five icons below to help guide you through the contents. They are based on the five areas where Culturama can really help — giving you an insight into India, its life and culture; finding you great places to shop and fun things to do to enrich your Indian experience; helping you find a home; and connecting you to new friends.

1 Read 4 Locate

2 Shop 5 Connect

3 Do

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Culturama’s contributors 01 Susan Philip is a freelance writer based in Chennai, and the editorial coordinator of Culturama’s various coffee-table books. 02 Harini Sankaranarayanan is an ardent foodie and a professional chocolatier. She has a degree in Hotel Management, English Literature and Theatre.

05 Devdutt Pattanaik is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group, and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology. Visit www.devdutt.com 06 Anita Krishnaswamy is President of Global Adjustments and a relocation expert. She has several years of experience working with expat clients across the country.

03 Ian Watkinson is a wrestler of words, a cooker of curries, a dabbler with the tabla, a persistent photographer and haphazard historian. 04 Neil Miller is Content Strategist at Culturama.in. He is an American and has been living in Chennai for the past two years.

Advisory Board members 07 N. Ram is an award-winning journalist and former Editorin-Chief of The Hindu. He is Director of Kasturi & Sons Limited, publishers of The Hindu. 08 Suzanne McNeill lived in India for seven years, first in Chennai and then in Delhi. She has now returned to Scotland, where she works as a freelance writer and graphic designer.

09 Babette Verbeek is a correspondent for BNR Nieuwsradio who previously worked in Amsterdam and Milan. Now she joyfully explores the beauty of South Indian culture. 10 Marina Marangos is a lawyer by profession but enjoys travel and writing. She lived in India for four years before moving to Australia. She blogs at www.mezzemoments.blogspot.com

11 G. Venket Ram is an acclaimed photographer and the creative mind behind many a Culturama issue. To know more about his work, log on to www.gvenketram.com 12 Beth Chapman is an American business management consultant living in Bengaluru. Former President of the city’s Overseas Women’s Club, Beth is an Indian culture aficionado.

13 Diane Chatterjee is a Scottish insurance professional who has lived in Mumbai for the past seven years. Besides indulging her passion for Indian travel, craft and cuisine, she has been on the Board of Mumbai Connexions, a society for expats. 14 Marcel Van Mourik is a Dutch photographer living in New Delhi for the past three years. Together with his cameras, he is passionate about discovering Indian culture.

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Contents Regulars

30 Feature Travel the length and breadth of the Thar Desert, and learn about its fascinating historic and mythological legacies.

India’s Culture 10

Short Message Service

Short, engaging snippets of Indian culture.

In your Kitchen

Spice up your meal with recipes from a Telugu-speaking Vaitiki Brahmin household.

Festival of the Month

A night-long prayer session dedicated to Lord Shiva, and a celebration to mark the beginning of Spring.

In Focus

Kyungsoo Kim, the Korean Consul General to India, talks about his experiences abroad, lessons learnt, and the traits that go into making a global citizen.

India Now

A recap of events, people and places that made news in the past month.

Global Citizen

A cross-cultural perspective to living and working in India.

India Writes

A space for discussing the best from India’s world of literature.

Look Who’s In Town

Expats in India share their stories on a practical theme for everyday survival in this country.

Picture Story

Love in all its glorious forms, expressed in the words of the Persian poet Rumi.

Calendar of Events

See what’s going on in the main metros and suburbs.

53 & 66 Postcards from India A ride on a carousel at Marina Beach in Chennai, and terracotta animals on a roof in Bhopal.

62 60

Myth & Mythology

Stories from India’s mythology reinterpreted for practical living.

Journeys Into India 44

Seeing India

Explore wildlife at Karadi Malai, and relive history at Aurangabad.

Holistic Living

Spiritual guru and teacher Eknath Easwaran tells us why kindness is the best response even to those who are unkind to us.

At Global Adjustments

Gearing up for AIKYA 2014 — Global Adjustments' annual charity initiative.

Give to India

Featuring worthy causes across the country.

Relocations and Property 68

Realty Bytes

Practical advice from Global Adjustments' relocation expert

Space and the City

Property listings across the metros.

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by Suzanne McNeill Short cultural snippets for an easily digestible India

Crafts of India Lac Ware from Vizag The eastern port city of Visakhapatnam, or Vizag, is a thriving centre for heavy industry and steel production, and is an Indian Navy base. It is also the hub for a number of collectives in the surrounding district who maintain the ancient craft of lac turnery — creating traditional wooden articles from the soft wood of the Hale tree, which are given a distinctive glossy finish with lac. Lac is a sticky deposit that is secreted by tiny, crimson-red insects that colonise certain trees. The coated branches are harvested, and the lac is then crushed and sieved to remove impurities and then mixed with natural dye. This mixture is used to decorate wooden objects while they are turned on a motor-driven lathe. The entire process, from shaping the wood to applying lac, is completed on a lathe — hence the products are mostly circular or symmetrical in shape. PHOTO www.itokri.com

Language Pahari

Words Dil versus Til

Pahari — from pahar, meaning ‘mountain’ — is the name of the group of languages spoken in the lower ranges of the Himalayas. Within India, this includes the states of Uttarakhand, northern Uttar Pradesh, Himachal Pradesh, and Jammu and Kashmir. Many of the basic words of the language are taken from Sanskrit, but Pahari is said to have originated with the spread of Buddhism in the region as an alternative to Sanskrit, which was considered the language of Hinduism. As a language of preaching and scripture, Pahari enjoyed a Golden Age around 400 BCE. However, it was mutated as the region absorbed different peoples over succeeding centuries, and much of the original literature and scripts are lost. It is now written in the Devanagari script. The Indian census of 2001 recorded close to three million people who claim Pahari as their mother tongue. If the subdivisions and dialects are included, this number rises to well over 12 million.

Central to the title of many a Bollywood film, as well as the opening lines of numerous ‘filmi’ songs written and performed for Indian cinema, dil is the Hindi word for heart. It is pronounced ‘the-ill’. Til, pronounced ‘th-ill’ (to rhyme with ‘chill’) is sesame. Sesame seeds are often roasted gently before use, or added to hot oil, to release their flavour. They are a proven source of calcium and believed to possess ‘heat-giving’ properties. North Indian cooking includes til in paste form to thicken sauces, whilst til oil has long been used as cooking oil in many recipes. Black or white til seeds are one of the five grains or panchashasha offered during the Durga Puja ceremony.

Til laid out as dil

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n source.i www.d PHOTO

Textile Kamdhani and Fardi ka kaam fromLucknow Kamdhani and Fardi ka kaam are both forms of Mukaish, an ancient style of embroidery using metal thread, which is unique to the city of Lucknow. Copper, silver and gold are beaten into very fine strips of wire, which are used by the karigar or craftsmen to adorn dupattas (long scarves) and saris, and to create exquisite borders on lehengas (long skirts). Fardi, meaning ‘dots’, is the basic type of Mukaish work where the wire thread itself is used as a needle to stitch silver and gold dots in different sizes and patterns, including the hazarabutti or the ‘thousand dots’ design characteristic of Lucknow. Kamdhani is used to create more sophisticated ornamentation, whereby the wire is attached to a small length of thread that is pulled through the fabric with a needle and twisted into motifs. The embroidered fabric is finished by rubbing it with a cowrie shell to flatten and burnish the wire. Sadly, the craft is becoming a rarity as the karigar are mostly elderly men and their work is often not carried forth by their children.

Past Influencer Homai Vyarawalla Homai Vyarawalla was India’s first female photo-journalist. Her portfolio of over 10,000 images captured the final days of the British Empire and the events and personalities that shaped the newly emergent India. Many of her images now form part of India’s national archives. Vyarawalla was born in 1913 to a Parsi family, and learnt photography from her husband. She studied at Mumbai’s J. J. School of Arts, and then worked at the British Information Services — wherein she plunged into the world of national politics. Thereafter, she photographed many political and national leaders, including M. K. Gandhi and Jawaharlal Nehru. She captured the swearing-in of Lord Mountbatten as Governor General of India, the Dalai Lama’s first visit to India, and the young Nehru-Gandhi family. Of utmost importance to Vyarawalla was that her images maintained the dignity of the subject. She retired from photography in 1970, dismayed by the paparazzi-style of the new generation of photographers, and lived in near anonymity until her death in 2012.

Art Jadupatua Paintings from Jharkhand Jadupatua paintings are vertical scroll paintings consisting of several (sometimes 20 or more) panels of images. The Jadupatua, or ‘magical painters’, were an itinerant caste of minstrel-painters, part of the Santhal tribal group from northeast India. The panels depicted tales from Santhal founding myths, Hindu stories and the lives of the Bengali saints. They were unrolled to the accompaniment of songs or chants performed by the Jadupatua to mark births and marriages, and, in particular, deaths, as they often dealt with the rewards and punishments bestowed on the departed souls by Yama, the God of Death. The paintings depicted clear-cut figures on a single flat plane. There was little realism to their style; instead, the figures were exaggerated or distorted to enhance their expressions, and painted with bright, natural mineral colours such as yellows, blues and reds for dramatic effect.

PHOTO www.cohands.com

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PHOTO www.pavan.blogspot.com

Tribes of India The Agaria Tribe The Agaria are said to be a Dravidian offshoot of the Gond tribe, which is central India’s largest tribal community. The Agaria reside in the country’s central regions, primarily in Madhya Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh, and there are an estimated 72,000 speakers of the Agariya language. The Agaria are said to have descended from Agni, the Hindu God of fire. They are differentiated from the Gond by their traditional profession of iron-smelting — working with the dark red ore from Madhya Pradesh’s Maikal hills, they produce agricultural implements. Agaria families are patrilineal, although men and women traditionally work together in the furnaces. They observe Hinduism and celebrate Hindu festivals, but the Agaria’s ancestral gods include Dulha Deo — the Gond’s deity of the family and hearth, the forest deity Bura Deo, and the demon Lohasur — who, they believe, dwells in the smelting kilns.

PHOTO Olya Morvan, Ukraine

Interpretations The woman’s red and gold sari, the styling of her hair, and the fact that both individuals are garlanded suggest that this image captures a couple that have just celebrated their marriage. Hindu wedding ceremonies include a rite called abhishek, in which the couple are sprinkled with water and meditate on the sun and the pole star. Abhishek is also a bathing ceremony. Water is always significant in Hindu rituals, and the two may be seeking purification and blessing from the elements on the most important day of their lives.

PHOTO puneheritage.blogspot.in.

Urban Adventure Mahatma Phule Mandai in Pune Rising above the heart of Pune’s Old City is the Mahatma Phule Mandai, Pune’s biggest fruit and vegetable market. Built by the British 125 years ago, the Mandai has eight wings radiating off a central neo-Gothic circular tower, and is filled with over 500 stalls — each wing dedicated to specific types of fruit or vegetable. The stallholders set up shop as early as 4 a.m, and the market is a hive of activity, offering opportunities to shop, take photographs or admire the architecture. The market hosts its own Ganesh Mandal or statue during the Ganesh Chaturthi festival. A variety of wares are sold by vendors in the lanes around the market, which are named after each day of the week — and are closed on the day of the week after which they were named!

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In focus by Ranjini Manian

Seoul Talk 1 Kyungsoo Kim, Korean Consul General to India, talks to Culturama about the wisdom gained from living as a global citizen across different countries for over 30 years Mr. Kyungsoo Kim, Korean Consul General to India, is down-to-earth, respectful and interested in learning about the nuances of different cultures. A conversation with him is a relaxed, engaging affair — he touches on various topics, and draws upon instances from his own life. Speaking on topics such as business and economy, he talks about how Koreans have the “can do” spirit — a factor that has helped in bringing the country to the level of prosperity it enjoys today. “Many people think Koreans are very wealthy,” he says. “But we have experienced poverty and famine in our daily lives for many years. It is only in recent years that we have attained this level of wealth and prosperity.” His comment touches on two elements — a reminder that hard work does reap rewards; and that, even in times of fortune, it is good to stay grounded and aware of hardships that people have faced. Central to Mr. Kim’s life and work is the realisation that regardless of race, language, colour or nationality, people are the same. This is the bedrock of his values, and has held him in good stead when it comes to forging relationships with people around the world. A valuable lesson for all of us to keep in mind, given how we too have an increasingly important part to play in our global village. What are some of the similarities between India and Korea? The similarities I found between Koreans and Indians are that they are both clever and very hardworking people. Also, we and the Indian people, I believe, highly value family ties. I also found that Indians and Koreans can be very charming. Can you share the top three driving forces that dictate the Korean way of life, especially in business? There is a Mahindra—SsangYong Motors joint venture in Korea that produces an SUV named ‘Korando’. It means, ‘Koreans can do’. We have what you call a ‘can do spirit’. We are used to saying that even if you cannot do it, you will make it happen, you can do it. So, there is a strong sense of challenge. That’s the first driving force. The second one, I think, is working together. We have a very long tradition of group culture. When we are working, we work as

Quick bytes: One useful word in Korean? Mashisoyo — it means ‘delicious’. A gesture not to be used in Korea? Recently, when Microsoft founder Bill Gates shook hands with President Park, his other hand was in his pocket. It became a big issue in the newspapers — so that’s one thing to avoid. An Indian you admire? Shah Rukh Khan. He has helped boost the business of Korean cars and cell phones. Another person I admire is economist Amartya Sen, especially for his work on poverty and famine. Your favourite vegetarian Korean dish? A salad made with crumbled tofu, carrot andcucumber — it is my mother’s specialty, now made by my wife. We didn’t name it! We also like spinach, and use it a lot in our recipes.

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a team — not individually. This all-important team spirit is also, I think, in a sense unique to our society. The last one, which many people, especially foreigners, must know very well when working in Korea is palli-palli — which means, ‘quick, quick’ in Korean. When we are working, we do it instantly, in a very short time. What do you like about India? I admire the democracy here in India. This is the world’s biggest democratic society — not in theory, but in reality, in practice, it is really happening. What is the best tool to have in hand as you move from country to country, and culture to culture? I think it is to be humble, humbler and humblest. The attitude to learn, to respect other cultures, people’s way of thinking, way of life. Whenever, wherever I am, as a foreigner, as a stranger, I try to learn and respect the existing social institutions, people’s philosophy … that sort of approach

helps me to overcome certain difficulties when it is contrary to my old way of thinking, of life in my own country. You have lived all over the world. How do you adapt to the local way of thinking — especially when the belief of a new society is in conflict with your own? There is no society or culture, including my own, which is perfect. So, always, there are some differences — there is nothing wrong or right. If you are in Rome, the old saying goes, you have to follow their rules there. You can’t totally forget your own emotions or reactions to something … but still, in a new place, in a new culture, you have to be ready to learn to respect the people’s way of thinking and way of life there. Can you share a memorable experience in a foreign land? Almost 27 years ago, when I was a trainee diplomat in London, I met an English gentleman, who fought in the Korean War, and his wife. They loved Korea very much — to

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Mr. Kyungsoo Kim with his wife Chungmee, and sons Youngmin (left) and Jungmin

some extent, they were more patriotic to Korea than some Koreans even! And they took care of me and my wife like their own children. Even now, during Christmas, we call and talk to them. We call them ‛mum’ and ‛dad’. What are the top two life lessons that you and your family have learnt through your travels? I started moving to different countries over 30 years ago — and, over that time, one thing I found is that regardless of race, language, colour, or sex, in every country, people are the same. That is the first, most important, lesson I learnt. Second, when you are in a new country or culture, you should not simply follow the view of other people as it is. You go and see with your own eyes, and experience in your own way, before forming your own view or judgement of things. What is your best advice for someone who is aspiring to be a global citizen? I think a global citizen’s task is to share his/her talent with others for prosperity. Here, in Chennai, for example, you have a sizeable number of Korean companies. They produce new goods or services, mobilising Indian domestic resources, including manpower. Basically, they are following their own practices as a company, but at the same time, they are making

a direct contribution to the development of economy and society. So, as global citizens, they are bringing prosperity to families in the new country. What are the countries you have lived in? The United Kingdom, Pakistan, Japan, New Zealand, Belgium, China, and now India. My older son was born in Seoul, Korea; when he was 100 days old, we took him to Pakistan. My second son was born in Brussels. As your children have travelled so much and lived all over the world, will they automatically become global citizens? Yes — all through their lives they have been living in different corners of the world, speaking different languages. This way, I think they will train to become global citizens. I wanted my children to meet people from all different countries, nationalities, languages. Regardless of certain prejudices or stereotypes you may have formed about certain people, a country or a culture, you have to have your own experience with those people to form your own judgement. This is what my wife Chungmee and I have tried to inculcate in our boys. Youngmin is a student of Economics in Yonsei University, Seoul, Korea and Jungmin is studying in the University of IOWA, in the United States.

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Photo: G. Venket Ram

Of all the countries you have lived in, which one was the most challenging to adapt to? Seoul, Korea! Korea as a society is very fast-changing. Whenever we go back home, after a two- or three-year interval, something has changed — we have to learn something new again, and sometimes you feel like you are an alien! Which was the easiest country to live in? We didn’t find any great difficulties in most countries, but, if I have to pick one, it is New Zealand — it was one of the easiest countries to live in. There, you see what an egalitarian society is like, how it really works — equality not as an ideological theory, but really put into practice. What can an Indian do to make a good first impression on Korean people? I think the condition is the same all over the world — to be trustworthy. In Korea, we highly regard those people who are trustworthy, and display it by speaking authentically. In business or when making friends, the consistency between word and deed is the highest standard. On the social side, it is important to be friendly. I think Indians and Koreans are both very friendly people. To treat people with friendliness is important, to speak nicely even if you don’t know our language. We don’t expect Indians to speak our language, but being nice is valued. You now have a female President, Park Geun-hye, in Korea. What is the role women play in Korean government and business? Today, women’s participation in Korea, especially social participation, is not as high as in some other countries. Still, I strongly believe that Korean women are more competitive than Korean men. They are very clever, and, in some sense, very tough. It is only a matter of time before the top positions in business and government are filled by women. I believe that women have full capacity to carry out the responsibilities of these roles. 1

WHEN IN SOUTH KOREA...

1. In South Korea, Valentine’s Day has a little twist — women give chocolates and gifts to their husbands or boyfriends! The reverse happens on March 14, known as ‘White Day’, when men buy gifts for the women. On November 11, lovers and friends exchange a snack called pepero (chocolate-covered biscuit sticks). 2. South Koreans love sweet potato! Every possible dish and delicacy is flavoured with sweet potato — main courses, desserts, chips, coffee, bread and salads. They even put it on pizzas! 3. Koreans have a superstition about writing their names in red ink. When a Korean dies, his/ her name is written in a family register and on funeral banners with red ink. Some believe this drives away demons and protects the dead, but if you write the name of a living person in red, you get the reverse effect. So if you are ever signing a contract, writing a letter or grading a paper, use a black pen. 4. Taxis in South Korea are colour-coded according to the level of service offered. If you hire a grey or white taxi, it would be a basic car with a fully qualified but not so experienced driver; if you hire a black cab, you will get a luxury car with a more experienced driver. 5. It is very common for South Koreans to ask you for your blood type — similar to asking what your sun sign is. Apparently, there is scientific backing to the fact that your personality is influenced by your blood type. 6. The South Korean flag — with a white background, a yin-yang symbol in the centre and four trigrams in the corners — has a special meaning. The yin-yang, in blue and red, represents the cosmic forces acting against each other to bring about balance. The trigrams symbolise the elements of heaven, earth, fire and water. 7. Tipping is not a requirement in South Korea. In fact, if you leave tips behind, you may find yourself being chased by a waiter bringing you back the change! 8. South Korea’s emigration rate is one of the highest in the world, with a huge portion of Koreans finding their way to nearby nations such as India, China and Japan. A significant number also migrate to the United States. 9. South Koreans love their newspapers — the country has 63 daily editions in print. This is similar to India, where there are about 3,000 paid-for newspaper titles. 10. Traditional Korean houses have roofs that are curved at the ends, shaped like smiles.

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India now by Susan Philip

The month that was 1 A quick recap of events, people and places that made news in the past month

Polity and Politics

Scientifically Speaking

The King of Bhutan, Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuk, and his wife, Jetsun Pema, were on a five-day official visit to India from January 6. The royal couple stayed at the Rashtrapathi Bhavan, official residence of the President of India, in New Delhi. The Bhutanese king and his delegation held talks with the Indian President, Mr. Pranab Mukherjee, Prime Minister, Dr. Manmohan Singh, and other top leaders and officials on bilateral issues. India takes a strong interest in the socioeconomic development of its tiny neighbour. King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuk was the Chief Guest at India’s Republic Day Parade at New Delhi in 2013. Do you know who the Chief Guest was at this year’s ceremony? Japanese Prime Minister Shinzo Abe.

India is all set to be declared a polio-free nation. No cases of the dreaded disease have been reported for the last three years in the country, which makes it eligible to be dropped from the list of nations where polio is endemic. Despite the poverty, overcrowding, and sanitation problems that India has to battle with, the goal was achieved, thanks to what Health Minister Ghulam Nabi Azad described as “a massive and sustained immunisation programme”. The approach was multi-pronged, and included a strong awareness campaign. Millions of social mobilisers, community health workers and others participated in the initiative, which saw several million children being protected in each round of vaccination. Besides the Government, the WHO, the UNICEF and Rotary International were involved in the effort. “India’s achievement is one of the most impressive accomplishments in global health ever.” Who said it? Bill Gates — the charity he runs with his wife, made a massive donation to Rotary International for the polio eradication effort.

Business Matters Bengaluru-based startup Little Eye Labs has become the first Indian firm to be acquired by Facebook. Little Eye Labs, which was founded about a year ago, will help the social media giant leverage the scope of mobile phones. The company’s technology will help develop more efficient mobile phones, which are being increasingly used by Facebook subscribers. The development is certainly a big feather in India’s cap.

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Come to Chennai

Arty Happenings January is a busy month for book lovers in India. The Jaipur Literature Festival, billed as the world’s largest free literary event, was held from January 17–21. Nobel Laureates Amartya Sen and Harold Marmus were among the speakers. Earlier, the fourth edition of the Hindu Lit for Life festival was held at Chennai from January 10–13. It offered a feast of literature, arts and cinema to the culture-oriented city. Lectures, panel discussions and workshops had participants of national and international fame, such as Man Booker Prize winner Aravind Adiga, best-selling authors Ravi Subramanian and Ashwin Sanghi, literary agent David Godwin, dancer Anita Ratnam, journalist Barkha Dutt, Tamil poets Salma and Sukhirtharani, Carnatic musician T. M. Krishna and actor Kamal Hassan. 3 See Yaadhum — A Tamil Muslim’s Journey in Search of His Roots and His Identity, a documentary by filmmaker Kombai S. Anwar 1 Read Cutting for Stone by Dr. Abraham Verghese

This and That The country-wide, year-long celebration of Swami Vivekananda’s 150th birth anniversary came to an end on January 12. The date is celebrated as National Youth Day in India. The main functions were held at his birthplace, Kolkata; at the Belur Math, Karnataka, headquarters of the Ramakrishna Mission he founded; and at New Delhi. Defence Minister A. K. Antony pointed out that Swami Vivekananda was probably the first sage to appreciate the value of youth in nation building. The President, Mr. Pranab Mukherjee, released a set of commemorative stamps and coins to mark the occasion. In 1893, Swami Vivekananda brought Hinduism to the world’s attention through his address to the Parliament of World Religions at Chicago, as India’s representative. 1 For more on the ‘Orange Monk,’ see http://culturama.in/ swami-vivekananda/?bysection=1 1 For a transcript of his speech at Chicago, go to http://tinyurl.com/ltf7owc

The New York Times has listed Chennai among the 52 must-visit places in 2014. Coming at Number 26, it is the only place in India to figure in the list. It shares the honour of being on the list with places such as Cape Town, South Africa, Dubai, The Vatican, Seychelles and Athens. 2 Shop for glass bangles in the by-lanes around the Kapaleeswarar Temple. 3 Visit the Government Museum and while you’re in the area, pick up textiles of every texture and colour at throwaway prices from evening stalls nearby. 3 Wander around Moore Market, adjacent to the Central Station, and browse for bargains at stalls selling old books and antiques (but keep your wits about you). 3 Climb the St. Thomas Mount where the apostle Thomas is believed to have been murdered, take a panoramic look at the city, and spend a moment in prayer at the church there.

A long walk Ghorakpur, a little-known town tucked away in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh has chugged into the limelight — it has entered the Limca Book of World Records for having the longest railway platform in the world. The newly built platform, inaugurated in October last year, is a whopping 1,355.40 metres long! Ghorakpur has ousted a town with a similar sounding name to win this distinction. The earlier record was held by Kharagpur in West Bengal. The expansion of the railway system in India under British rule provided material for a literary classic. Can you name the book and its author? ‛Around the World in Eighty Days’ by Jules Verne. The fact that it was possible to travel directly from Bombay to Calcutta is an important point in the book’s plot.

February 2014

culturama

Global citizen by Neil Miller

On the right footing If you are in the business of selling to Indians, there is one question you must have the correct answer to: Are you offering a luxury product/service, or a commodity? The answer makes a world of difference, and sets you on two very different paths. When someone buys a commodity, he is buying a product — be it toothpaste, software, consulting, wine or jewellery — that is used as a part of daily life. However, when he buys a luxury item, he is buying that same product along with the status that the brand bestows on the owner. If you are selling/marketing a luxury item: You have come to the right place. Indians love luxury itemsand services as they show status, the indication of how much respect they should be given. Most people think twice before pulling out in front of the BMW. The man with the flashy Rolex watch might get seated at a nicer table at the restaurant. When it comes to price, the sky is the limit. The only rule is that you cannot give a large discount (if any). If you are selling Prada bags at 50% off, you’ve robbed your customer of the status that comes with paying full price. A simple haircut might seem like a commodity, but if your salon styles Kareena Kapoor’s hair, then people will be willing to pay a lot for the right to be associated with it. No one brags about getting a huge discount on a luxury item because it defeats the underlying purpose. Luxury items can be a speaker at a convention like Vijay Govindarajan, tickets to a sporting event like the F1 Race in Delhi or a live performance by Priyanka Chopra. Just attending these events increases status — and, therefore, is seen as worth the cost. If you are selling a commodity: You have also come to the right place, as there are a billion people living here. However, you need a different strategy. The Indian market is full of commodities and, unless you find an untapped niche, you will likely find yourself in a race to the bottom. Remember, a commodity is simply a product. For commodity items, the buyers will likely want a good deal.

1 Before setting out to selling to Indians, you need to figure out what you are selling and how your customers perceive you And after they get the deal, they are likely to want a discount. To see this in action, go to the local vegetable vendor and watch the negotiations. Your advantage in selling a commodity is that the market is so huge that the scaling potential is almost unlimited. As long as your pricing model stays strong (and resilient to discounts), you will likely find yourself in a great position. There are two main challenges many companies in India face around this topic: 1. They do not know if they are selling luxury or commodity (a strategy problem). 2. They do not know if the buyer perceives them as a luxury or commodity (an image problem). If you can figure out the right answer to both of these, then you are set up for great success in India. 1

PHOTO Cathy Maljournal, France

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February 2014

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In your kitchen by Harini Sankaranarayanan

Red alert! 1 The fiery crimson chilli occupies pride of place in the delicious fare served at Telugu-speaking Vaitiki Brahmin households Photo: Courtesy chef Malgudi Kavitha, The Savera, Chennai

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Panda Pachadi 2 medium onions, finely chopped 6 to 8 green chillies ½ tsp tamarind paste ½ tsp jaggery Salt to taste To temper: ¼ tsp whole mustard seeds 2 red chillies whole A pinch of turmeric powder Method Grind the chillies with the tamarind, jaggery and salt. Add to the finely chopped onions. Heat a little oil and add mustard seed and red chillies and wait till the mustard seeds splutter. Add a pinch of turmeric and add at once to the ground mixture. Peanut Chutney 1 cup roasted peanuts 10 to 12 dried red chillies ½ tsp tamarind paste ½ tsp jaggery Salt to taste Method Grind all the ingredients together to form a somewhat coarse paste. (It is almost like a spicy peanut butter.)

Lakshmi Kumaraswami remembers her childhood spent at home in Cuddapah, Andhra Pradesh. “I can recall my grandmother and mother bent over the stove, cooking. The smells permeating the house making the children wait for their mealtime.” As a Telugu-speaking Vaitiki Brahmin, Lakshmi’s family rarely used garlic and onions. The food was simple, tasty and filling. As natives of this south-central district, if one was to point to a spice that dominates this cuisine, it would be the chilli. The fiery red spice is a must in almost all dishes — either tempered in oil and added whole, pounded and added as a powder, or crushed and used to flavour and colour the food. To tone down the chilli’s burning sensation, copious quantities of ghee (clarified butter) and oil are added to the dishes. As is the case with most natives of south India, rice forms the staple cereal of their meals. Morning usually begins with a breakfast of upma, a thick porridge made from semolina; idly or dosa; or the famous pesarettu, a pancake made mainly from moong beans. These are accompanied by chutneys of different types. “The wonderful thing about these chutneys is that they can be eaten through the day — first with breakfast, then with lunch and then again with dinner.” It is a versatile accompaniment that can be had as a dip, or mixed with rice. Lunch follows with pappu mudda or lentils cooked and mashed with vegetables, which is a must on every luncheon menu. You could add spinach, eggplant or almost any other vegetable. Sambar, unlike the version from Tamil Nadu, does not contain any dhal or lentils. Mixed vegetables are blended with tamarind water and chilli, and cooked down. Vegetables are a must at the meal. “One of the most delicious vegetables we make is the stuffed eggplant,” claims Lakshmi. Whole

February 2014

baby eggplants are slit and stuffed with a mixture of roasted coconut, sesame, chilli and coriander, and then shallow-fried till soft and tender. Chutneys or thuvayal add another element to the meal. The most sought-after being the concoction made using gonkura, the slightly sour sorrel leaves that lend themselves beautifully to the addition of the spice. The kandhi podi is a popular powder mix made from four different lentils, chilli and cumin. These taste best with hot steamed rice served with a generous dollop of ghee. “Another podi I miss,” Lakshmi says longingly, “is one made from the dried leaves of the tamarind tree. Now I do not even get the fresh leaves, let alone the dry ones. So I have to be content if someone from my hometown sends me some once in a while.” While dinner is usually the same as lunch, more pachadis may be added. The alam pachadi or the ginger relish is equally popular as the panda pachadi, which is made of onions, tamarind and jaggery. Lakshmi is also quick to add that millets were used more frequently than the polished rice that we see on the table today. Sangati is a case in point, where ragi (finger millet) is cooked with rice to make a wholesome meal. No meal in Andhra would be complete without talking about the pickles, which glisten with chilli and oil — aavakai being the most talked-about mango pickle. To any true-blooded person from Andhra, the pickle was not just an accompaniment to be had with yogurt and rice, but mixed directly into the rice and relished for the fiery spice of the chilli and the sour tanginess of the mango. To get a taste of the spread in a Telugu Brahmin home, try making their pachadi and chutney and have them with hot, steaming rice topped with a generous dollop of ghee. Tone down the spice factor if the chilli gives you too much of a burn. 1

February 2014

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India writes

iREAD

The Good, the Bad and the Ridiculous – Profiles by Khushwant Singh

Reviewed by Babette Verbeek What is it about? The book offers 35 profiles of Indians, mostly in the political or cultural arena, who have made an impact on this country. All of them are personalities Khushwant Singh has personally met, and the majority of those written about is no longer alive. Going by his experiences with Mahatma Gandhi as a schoolboy, the three days he spent with Mother Teresa in Kolkata, his friendship with Sanjay Gandhi, his contempt for Louis Mountbatten, and a reconstruction of Phoolan Devi’s past, Khushwant Singh is clearly older than India and happened to be in all the right places. Luckily for the reader, he kept a diary.

Who is it by? Khushwant Singh was born in 1915 in present-day Pakistan. Much to the despair of his father, he cut short his career as a diplomat to become a journalist and writer. He worked

for several newspapers and magazines. His literary oeuvre is enormous — novels, short stories, fiction and non-fiction. In the 1980s, he was also a member of the Rajya Sabha, the Indian senate. Throughout his life, Khushwant Singh has received numerous awards. However, he returned one of the most prestigious felicitations, the Padma Bhushan, in 1984 as a gesture of protest against the Indian army storming the Sikhs’ Golden Temple in Amritsar.

Why should I read it? In this book, Khushwant Singh shines a unique, personal light on famous and infamous Indians, while at the same time introducing you to others you may have never heard of before. The author is not afraid to step on his subjects’ toes — he announces in the introduction that he wants to give a truthful account. In short, we get to read about the good, the bad and the ridiculous sides of a bunch of prominent personalities — enough to whet anyone’s literary appetite. 1

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February 2014

Feature by Suzanne McNeill

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Call of the dunes

Photo: Aurelie Marsan, France

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February 2014

1 Behind the never-ending line of sand dunes, the Thar desert hides a rich heritage. explore this fascinating land through the prisms of myth, history and culture India’s great Thar Desert is a land of contrasts. To outsiders, it is a mysterious and romantic place of golden silence. Its expanse of scorched sands, whipped up by the winds, is one the harshest places on earth. Yet, the Thar sustains more people than any other desert in the world. It is a land of pastoral nomads and tribal peoples who have brought to it their colourful and rich traditions. The name ‘Thar’ is derived from t’hul, which, in the dialect of the region, means sand ridges. These dunes are in continual motion, undulating between sandy plains and low barren hills. The Thar is the world’s eighteenth largest desert, covering 77,000 square miles across four Indian states and beyond into Pakistan. It provides a natural boundary with Pakistan at the Indus River Plain to the west, and is bordered by the Punjab Plain to the north, the hills of the Aravalli Range to the southeast, and the salt plains of India’s second desert, the Rann of Kutch, to the south. Burnt by the sun, the Thar is one of the driest places on earth, holding less than one percent of India’s fresh water resources — an anomaly in a subcontinent that enjoys several monsoons each year.

February 2014

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Legend and Lore Legend overlays history in the Thar as much as it does elsewhere in India. The epics describe the desert as lavana sagara — the salt ocean, and fossil records show that the Thar was indeed once covered by a sea. In the Ramayana, the main protagonist Rama threatens to annihilate Varuna, the God of the ocean, who has ignored his pleas for help: “… I [will] make vapour of his waters with my astra, and all his fish [will] lie heaving on an arid bed of sand.” Rama’s blazing arrows, described as “shafts of light and flames”, are directed at the waters that separate him from his beloved wife Sita, who has been abducted and taken to Lanka. Varuna begs Rama to redirect his ire to the oceans of the north, which have been corrupted by the sins committed by the Abhira tribe. The astra is released, and the Thar Desert comes into being. (Clockwise from top left) Regional kingdoms flourished due to the lucrative trans-Thar trade routes between India, China, Persia and Asia Minor. Photo: Naomi Sonnenberg; Camels are central to desert life as they can withstand heat and scarcity of water. Photo: Janet Bolitho; tera tali, a devotional folk dance that has been passed down through generations of families. Photo: Marlon Pieris Canada; Bright colours permeate every aspect of life in the desert — from decoration on houses to clothing. Photo: Jennifer C. Steele.

In Jain cosmology, the salt ocean surrounds the middle part of the universe, where mortal beings reside. According to the Mahabharata, the Kamyaka Forest on the Thar’s western boundary is where the Pandavas lived in ascetic asylum. Rajasthani legend tells that the ill-fated lovers of the famed Persian poem Layla and Majnun found refuge in a village to the west of the Thar, and eventually died there. Newlyweds from India still flock to the tomb where the lovers’ graves are believed to be located. Vedic scriptures mention the Saraswati — a mighty river that once flowed through the Thar to the ocean. It is praised lavishly in the Rig Veda as the “best river, best mother” and was one of the seven sacred rivers, the Sapta Sindhu, around which the Indus Valley civilisation flowered from ancient times. Two great cities grew — Harappa to the north of the Thar and Mohenjo-daro to the south — and Harappan settlements dating to the period between 3000 and 1750 BCE have been found throughout this region of north-west India, including the desert. The region was overrun by the seminomadic Aryan tribes, who crossed the Indus from the west during the Vedic Age (1500–600 BCE), then Alexander the Great 300 years later, and such was the pattern for centuries thereafter as waves of invasions swept through the flat terrain. The wide open spaces of Rajasthan, however, also allowed regional kingdoms to flourish as successive rulers prospered through controlling the lucrative trans-Thar trade routes between India, China, Persia and Asia Minor and taxing the movement of silk, spices and precious stones. Medieval Hindu Rajputs and their Mughal overlords alike acquired vast fortunes, which they spent on the extravagant palaces, forts and temples of the cities that circle the desert.

Life in the Desert Caravans of desert travellers still move through this land of nomadic and semi-nomadic tribes in search of fodder or water for their livestock, and the region has long been associated with the Romany peoples, many of whom travelled west out of Rajasthan in the wake of defeat in war. Many have settled in simple villages of jhungi or circular dwellings of straw and wood, covered in mud and cow dung, and capped with a thatch roof. Fences made of dry thorn bushes define lanes and streets whilst keeping animals out and children in, and the village may be surrounded by a mud or stone wall to protect it from sandstorms. The villages so merge into their surroundings that they could almost be a part of the desert

February 2014

Photo Deepak Raval, UK

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1 Houses apart, dazzling colour and ornate decoration prevail in the dress and jewellery of the Thar people. Women wear a traditional ghaghra-choli or skirt and blouse, while Men wear white dhoti or pyjamas, and brightly coloured turbans itself, but for their colourful decoration. Twice a year — to mark Diwali, the Festival of Lights, in early winter; and Holi, the Festival of Colour, in Spring — the women decorate their dwellings with paints made from natural minerals. Houses apart, dazzling colour and ornate decoration prevail in the dress, jewellery, and craftsmanship of the Thar people, contributing to a culture that is vibrant and full of life. Women wear the traditional ghaghra choli, a two-piece costume made of a long, swirling skirt and a matching blouse. Cotton ghaghras are the most popular — they are dyed in brilliant colours, and the women cover their heads with an odhani or veil to protect their faces from the harsh sun and sand. Typical of the Thar is a form of embroidery called mirrorwork, where fabric is embellished with beads, shells and tassels, as well as metallic pieces and small glass mirrors. Men wear white dhoti or pyjamas, and their brightly coloured

February 2014

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Photo Marlon Pieris, Canada

turbans are synonymous with the region. As well as protecting the head from the scorching sun, the turban denotes the wearer’s social status and his community. Traditionally, nomadic people invested their wealth in jewellery; the ornaments worn by a woman also signal her marital status. One example is the madaliya — a flat silver amulet worn around the neck that bears the image of a Hindu deity. Married women wear ivory bangles (although these may well be plastic bangles these days) on their upper and lower arms to protect against the ‘evil eye’, and adorn themselves further with silver torques called hansuli, nose rings (in shapes that represent the sun and moon), silver toe rings, and anklets with bells. The women of the Bhil tribe wear bangles decorated with animal heads.

Natural Harmony A reverence for nature, and the environment in which humans and animals co-exist, sets apart the Bishnoi tribe of the Thar. The

Bishnoi are fierce environmentalists who live in accordance with principles espoused by their prophet, which forbid them to kill or eat animals, to cut down trees or to drink alcohol. Each village digs a water hole in its fields for wild animals, and villagers share their crops of millet with them. They venerate the antelope in the belief that the animal is the reincarnation of their dead ancestors, and have created in the desert a haven for the Black Buck, which is virtually extinct in the rest of India. The Bishnoi are particularly famous for an event that took place in 1847, when the Maharaja of Jodhpur sent his army into a Bishnoi forest to cut wood. A Bishnoi woman stepped forward to protect a tree, but she was promptly beheaded. She was followed by another 366 Bishnoi as they each stepped forward one by one with the same intent. The Maharaja, impressed by their courage, called off the logging and declared the Bishnoi land a reserve. The Taj Mahal — one of India’s best known monuments — was built

Photo Martijn Kleverlaan

Typical of this region is a form of embroidery called mirror-work, where fabric is embellished with beads and small glass mirrors; (right) accessories sold at a camel fair.

Desert Tales 3 A 50-minute documentary on the spiritual relationship between the people and animals of the Thar Desert: http://tinyurl.com/thar-naturalworld 3 Watch panchkuta being made: http://tinyurl.com/panchkuta 3 Listen to a doro song: http://tinyurl.com/dorosong 3 Watch pabuji bhopa: http://tinyurl.com/ pabutheatre 3 Watch a tera tali dance: http://tinyurl.com/ teratalidance 3 Watch a bhavai dance: http://tinyurl.com/ bhavaidance 3 Watch a ghoomar dance: http://tinyurl.com/ ghoomardance

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February 2014

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Photo Roopak Verma, USA

with white marble mined from the town of Makrana, on the eastern edge of the Thar Desert. Stone quarrying and the mining of copper, gypsum and salt has long been an alternative to the state’s agricultural sector. Now, the desert has begun to yield oil, thanks to the discovery of India’s largest onshore hydrocarbon find in the past two decades. Farming and animal husbandry, however, remain the main occupations here. Cattle are bred for milk and sheep for wool, whilst camels, used for transport and agricultural purposes, are central to desert life as they can withstand heat and the scarcity of water that would destroy other livestock. The lack of water also means that no rice is grown, but millet, wheat, pulses, sesame and cumin seed are farmed, and form the basis of the people’s diet along with wild produce that can be gathered locally and dried. Panchkuta is a curry dish that has been the mainstay of travellers across the desert for centuries, and contains a kind of pulse called ghoondha, sangri beans from the pods of a tree found in the Thar, and a sour green berry from thorny bushes of the region called ker. The dish does not require refrigeration, and has a long shelf life. Coarse wheat flour, pulses and spices are the main ingredients in dal-baati-churma, the baati being unleavened round breads that are baked over fires stoked with firewood or kanda (cow dung cakes).

A passion for music and dance is part of the rich tradition of the Thar Desert and it is the source of some of the state’s bestknown folk culture. Women have always played an important role in both composing and performing song and dance. Song-forms such as doro tell of the hardship of daily life, describing chores (often centred around water and wells), whilst celebrating tales of heroism and romance. Villagers would gather to watch musical theatre performances of legends from history, such as the medieval story of Pabu, performed over three nights before a painted panel backdrop. Tera tali is a devotional folk dance from the desert state of Rajasthan that has been passed down through generations of families. Two or more women set up a fast rhythmic pattern as they dance — often seated — to the beat of cymbals tied to their arms and legs. Bhavai, performed to thank the Gods for their mediation, is almost acrobatic as the performer balances vessels on his/her head when dancing, whilst the graceful ghoomar, meaning pirouette, is a dance that moved from the villages of the Thar to the city courts. The desert’s famous camel fairs and festivals, to this day, provide an opportunity for villagers and nomadic peoples to meet, to strike deals over livestock, and participate in a spectacle of dance and music, snake charmers and puppeteers. 1

1 The desert’s famous camel fairs and festivals to this day provide an opportunity for villagers and nomadic peoples to meet, to strike deals over livestock, and participate in a spectacle of dance and music, snake charmers and puppeteers

• Temperatures in May and June rise to 50 °C (122 °F), and dust storms are common. In January the temperature drops to 5 to 10 °C (41 to 50 °F). • The Pushkar Camel Fair is a massive annual spectacle, and will be held from October 30 to November 6, 2014. Alternatives are the Nagaur Fair, February 6—9, 2014, and the Bikaner Camel Festival in January 2015. • The three-day Jaisalmer Desert Festival takes place from February 12—14, 2014 against the backdrop of the sand dunes.

culturama

February 2014

Advertiser's feature

Elite Style 1 Satin Skin introduces its exclusive laser centre, a first of its kind in India, in Chennai

Satinskin introduces Cynosure’s ELITE for the first time in India, for the treatment of unwanted hair removal, in Chennai. Satinskin’s ELITE is unique with a dual wavelength that treats unwanted hair effectively. Listed below are some of the advantages of this treatment style, answers to some frequently asked questions. Why choose the Elite treatment? No preparation time. Air cooling, which makes the treatment more comfortable Dual wavelength to achieve long-term results No messy feeling as gels are not used Faster treatments with larger spot size Results seen in just a few sessions Less time taken for treatment — the entire face can treated within 15-20 minutes How many sessions do you need? Everyone’s hair and skin is different, but clinical studies suggest that or most people, maximum results are achieved in just 3–5 sessions, spaced at three to six weeks apart. Does the treatment hurt? The treatment is delivered together with air cooling to provide superior comfort. What are the areas that can be treated? Men: Chest, back, neck, chin, lower back, happy trail, abdomen, arms, under-arms, legs, beard, sideburns, jaw line, ear lobes, hands, toes, and shoulders. Women: Under-arms, bikini line, legs, arms, upper-lip, chin, sideburns, jaw line, ear lobes, abdomen, toes, buttocks and full body. Precautions to be taken after the treatment Protect yourself by applying a sunscreen with spf of 30 or above. You have to apply the sunscreen at least 20 minutes before going out in the sun. 1

February 2014

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Look who’s in town New Delhi

Labyrinth of Contrasts 1 With a mix of American, British and German roots, Lara Zilberkweit is no stranger to new cultures. She shares her stories of settling into Delhi and invaluable tips on home maintenance

Lara Zilberkweit’s first New Year in Delhi was a very different experience from Bhutan, where she lived before. “After the remote Himalayas, it took time to acclimatise to an extremely crowded city life, crazy traffic, as well as free roaming wildlife on the roads.” That was around seven years ago. Lara now runs her own travel agency, Monkfoot Travels, which is based in the NCR region. Her best friends include her Bengali and Bihari neighbours. “It was the beginning of a long friendship,” she says. Lara has worked her way through the “fascinating labyrinth of controversies that is India” and tells us that “India has the power to amaze, awe and to get people to reflect upon life at the same time. Given a chance, India can truly be paradise.” Here are her words of wisdom for newcomers who are in the process of settling in to the city. Home maintenance There is a walla (person) for everything — so check with neighbours for your own dhobi (ironing), kachara walla (garbage) and kabari walla (recycling). Maids can be hired to assist with household chores such as sweeping, mopping, dusting and cleaning bathrooms. Believe it or not, you would never have seen as much dust as in India! Your locality/society will provide you with a maintenance crew for all the rest. However, be patient — few of the so-called ‘specialists’ have undergone formal training; cowboys and greenhorns abound.

‘Adopted’ in Delhi On my arrival in Noida, I was ‘adopted’ by my Bengali and Bihari neighbours, who delighted in serving me their home ‘specialties’ (sometimes leaving me gasping for water!). In return, they fully enjoyed the new ‘Western’ bakery next door! It was the beginning of a life-long friendship. The Bengali neighbour’s son amazed me no end, as he spoke German better than English — wow! We conversed in German over the next four years, and my reputation as a German teacher flourished, bringing me many eager students. Evening invitations were an eye-opener — hours of chatting, drinks and endless supplies of hot/cold snacks, followed by a sumptuous dinner at a very late hour. As soon as the main meal is finished, guests get up and leave. Unusual traditions! Settling in When in India, do as the Indians do. Try to blend in with Indian life and enjoy yourself. Outstanding, perfect construction, punctuality and similar traits are out. ‘Pretty okay’ and IST are the norm. IST is ‘Indian Standard Time’, which is half an hour more than the said time! Maids learn fast and are a great help, even if you do not speak their language. Keep those cravings for your hometown ‘specialties’ at bay, and enjoy the local produce at great prices. Take the initiative and meet your local neighbours. They will rarely make the first step with foreigners; but once the ice is broken, they are warm, welcoming and make for amazing friends. 1

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February 2014

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Look who’s in town Chennai

Chennai Spice Trail 1 Britisher Beth Caldwell gives us a round-up of the most interesting eat out places in Chennai There is no place like Chennai, says Beth Caldwell — in fact, she is as comfortable here as she is back home in the UK. She has travelled extensively, and came to the south Indian metro “after living in the hustle and bustle of Cairo for five years, so I thought it was much calmer and greener; people here always seem surprised to hear that.” Beth, who has worked as Acting Head — Teaching Centres for the British Council, says that Chennai reminds her of home, even though both places are separated by quite a distance. “Some of the architecture, and the very English-sounding street names give it touches of home. I’ve lived in other countries for nearly 15 years … Chennai truly feels like home — and it is home to some of my favourite people.” We follow Beth as she takes us on a tour of gastronomic delights in her adopted hometown. Takeaway Traditions In the United Kingdom, I used to find eating out pretty expensive and reserved it for special occasions. An Indian or Chinese takeaway, and a night in with a movie would be more common. In India, there’s delicious food available such as dosa that doesn’t burn a hole in the pocket. I must say that, having grown up ordering Indian takeaway, I was inordinately excited at ordering my very first takeway in India. I stuck to the UK favourite of Chicken Tikka Masala from Zaitoon, and I certainly wasn’t disappointed! It’s still a weekend tradition — takeaway and a movie. Some habits clearly die hard!

Exploring Chennai's gastronomic options with friends; (top) Britisher Beth Caldwell, who moved from Egypt to Chennai

Local Food Haunts • Sunday brunch at a posh hotel like the Hyatt Regency is a fabulous way to while away an afternoon, if you can afford it. • There aren’t too many open-air places here; I like the rooftop restaurant at the Hotel Ranjith in Nungambakkam. • One of Chennai’s oldest hangouts is Ajnabi in Fountain Plaza. It’s got an amazing variety of tasty chaat, sweets and snacks. Don’t worry if you don’t know the name — pick anything, and you can have a culinary adventure. • Sandy’s has the best European-style food you’re likely to get in Chennai — plus they have desserts to die for! Foodie Tips • Websites like Zomato.com or Chennai.burrp offer informative user-generated reviews. • If you want to make something from your native cuisine, be prepared to hunt around for ingredients. My top spots are Mercado, Amma Naana, Nilgiris in Besant Nagar, or Tryst at Neelankarai, Star Bazaar at Skywalk Mall, and Nuts & Spices. • Join Groupon and other daily deals — this way you can try new places at a bargain. When in the United Kingdom Have deep pockets! Expense aside, you can’t leave the country without trying fish and chips — best eaten out of the wrapping paper, even better at the seaside. In London, do visit the incredibly goodvalue Vietnamese cafes on Kingsland Road. And even small villages have an Indian restaurant. 1

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February 2014

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Look who’s in town Bengaluru

The Party Comes to Town! 1 Canadian entrepreneur Brett Younge tells us about the best places to grab a drink and swing a tune in Bengaluru To Brett Younge, Bengaluru reminds him of something Ayn Rand said: “Contradictions do not exist. Whenever you think that you are facing a contradiction, check your premises. You will find that one of them is wrong.” When he landed in Bengaluru, Brett’s impression was one of “straight-up bewilderment, all my perceptions seemed to contradict!” After three years in the city, he admits to still being confused! But Bengaluru has, he says, given him “a sense of intrigue, an appetite to stick around”. The Canadian is busy with his newest venture, IndoStep, which helps overseas companies settle in to India. He is also exploring Bengaluru’s nightlife, and has a lot of tips for party animals who are new to the city. Party in Toronto Back home in Toronto, Canada, the party scene is really diverse. Beneath our great friendly Canadian exterior, however, there is a sense of shyness that can be misinterpreted as being reserved or overly exclusive. Bengaluru is the destination of ambitious internationals and Indians alike. If you are one of those who’s here to build something great, have success in your professional life, experience a new culture and enjoy letting your hair down, you will love the scene here. Just don’t expect Ibiza or even Goa — which, incidentally, is just a short overnight drive to the coast. Where’s the party tonight? Go-to pubs include Monkey Bar, Plan B and Hard Rock Café. Upscale options include the Dublin Pub and Polo Club. For the young, stylish, high-energy expat, there is no one better than Viren Khanna (Bangalore Expat Club, VKP) for connecting with the party

scene. For the more serious business networker, Ema Trinidad (Spas by Ema, Expat Entrepreneur Circle) is the person. Rafiushan Pasha (Plugg Fashion) runs a party scene that is distinctly more Indian and glamorous. For heavy drinkers, Sunday is the day of the week — every place in town puts on a smashing Sunday brunch. Great spots for chilling out, live music and nice atmosphere: Humming Tree, Om Café, Yoga House, Tao Terraces, Opus (on Sunday nights) and Pebbles. Party tips Partying in Bengaluru is trickier than in other places because of the curfew and laws. You will often need to pay ‘cover’ if you are a single male; it is almost always 100% redeemable at the bar, and just used by the organisers for screening purposes and cash control. Get a driver for about Rs 1,000 for eight hours from a local taxi service — you can split this four ways with friends if you like. Avoid auto-rickshaws late at night, for obvious reasons. Bengaluru is pretty lax in terms of dress code. Anything goes pretty much anywhere, so just use your common sense. Ladies, avoid wearing your most scandalous party clothes in public. When in Canada Ice hockey (we just call it ‛hockey’) is the word in Canada. Learn it. Love it. Become a fan. Aside from that: just be passionate about something — anything! — and pursue it like crazy.We embrace individuality in Canada and we're drawn to people who follow their dreams. Try to avoid asking a million questions about a person’s job when you first meet; we are a little bit bristly about our privacy and it is a mark of good manners if you respect that about us. 1

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February 2014

Advertiser's feature

Eat, Pray, LOVE 1 This Valentine’s Day, rekindle romance by going on a special holiday with your partner. Ramji Natarajan head of TMIC, the preferred partners of Abercombie & Kent (A&K) world’s leading luxury travel company, gives his pick of exotic locations for a romantic holiday There are many ways to express your love — and many places for that perfect date. Escape to sandy beaches, tranquil blue waters and luxurious resorts, indulge in couple massages, champagne dinners at the beach, sunset cruises, or picnic at a secluded lagoon. And why not renew your nuptial vows at one of these scenic destinations and fall in love all over again? Our Recommendations: Mauritius: Once seen as the point at the crossroads of African and Arabian trade routes, this beautiful island is a melting pot of cultures. Explore the stretches of sandy coast, or delve into its historic sights and diverse culture. Sri Lanka: This tear-shaped island, which is like a pearl in the Indian Ocean, has woken up to the world of tourism. Known as Ceylon and as Serendib in the past, the country is a fascinating blend of Portuguese, Dutch and English influences. Luxurious stays at some of the finest hotels will make for an enchanting holiday. Maldives: At Maldives, time comes to a standstill. Unwind at the white sand beaches and sparkling blue lagoons that are so serene and stunning that the archipelago has been described as 'the Last Paradise on Earth'.

Indonesia: A tonic for the body, mind and soul. From Ubud’s rice terraces, ravines and arts, to the southern beaches of Sanur, Legian and Kuta, to the East's royal culture, Indonesian is natural and cultural extravagance at its best. Myanmar: Sitting pretty in the Asian landscape, Myanmar is a land of mystery and excitement. Marvel at the crisscross of hills, valleys, temples and thick jungles — you could even imagine yourself to be on an Indiana Jones’ style adventure! Abercrombie & Kent’s extensive on-the ground connections, handpicked local guides and expert Tour Directors are your best partners in discovering these exotic locations. Enjoy their incredible diversity, delectable cuisines, dramatic histories and natural beauty. All journeys are designed by our destination experts, and individually tailored to suit needs, budget and duration. Contact TMIC (Preferred Sales Agent for Abercrombie & Kent in India) for more details and to book your next Holiday. 1 Travel Masters India Corporation (TMIC) New #9, Visweswarapuram, Mylapore, Chennai – 600 004 Tel: +91 44-42899900 | +91 9884830042 | +91 9004229075 Email: ramji@tmic.in | irinam@tmic.in | luxury.maa@tmic.in

February 2014

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Seeing India by Ian Watkinson

Into the wilderness 1 At Karadi Malai camp in south India, the effects of human encroachment are being reversed and nature is slowly extending its green touch across arid lands once again

The arid landscape unfolding southwards from Chennai has seen many changes in recent decades. The drastic reduction of the original forest canopy of tall tropical dry deciduous forest on the coastal plains has seriously affected wildlife habitat. Around 17% of Tamil Nadu is still forested, most of it conserved in wildlife sanctuaries and protected forest reserves on the flanks of the Eastern and Western Ghats. The coastal plains are now dominated by scrub vegetation with short, thorny trees such as acacia, cassia and euphorbia. Fifteen hundred years ago, the Pallavas of Kanchi were the guardians of these plains, which had tall dense forests growing above the thorny scrub, and were populated with tigers, leopards, elephants, monkeys and deer. Sadly, the tall forests and the animals have almost vanished now. However, 50 km from Chennai, near Chengalpattu, is a place where nature is resolutely being restored to its former state — Karadi Malai camp. Owners Rom Whitaker and his wife, author and film-maker Janaki Lenin, have spent years planting original forest species over the 12-acre camp and restoring the area to its forested state. Living in India for over four decades, Rom is well known internationally for his conservation work with reptiles — indeed, he is known as ‘The snake man’. He has also made huge inroads in promoting greater understanding of the negative effects of the loss of habitat on the reptile world. The Crocodile Bank and the Snake Park in Chennai are important breeding and research centres that have resulted directly from his vision and dedication. Recently, he has made a film investigating how big cats and humans can, and do, live amicably in the same landscape. Karadi Malai is a micro-cosmic work in progress that shows how that can be achieved, in addition to regenerating natural habitats. A red dirt track from the tarmac road leads to a green avenue where birdsong sweetens the air and multi-coloured butterflies float through yellow flowering cassia on one side and a tall canopy of deciduous trees on the other. Rising in the south-west is the steep rocky hill of Vallam. Pathways under the leafy trees lead to three discrete yet sturdy cabins with balconies, built on stilts centered in water traps to prevent the migration of rows of black ants into the cabins. Comfortable beds with soft pillows, clean and crisp cotton sheets, mosquito nets, a writing table, a chair, a desk fan, a wardrobe with a lock and electric lights with rice paper lanterns are provided in the cabins. A full bathroom suite is

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attached. A fire extinguisher is provided — for these are truly eco-cabins, carefully constructed from split bamboo panels. Two cane chairs on the balconies look over the wooded camp. Fresh food is cooked in an outdoor restaurant. Behind is an array of solar panels, 24-volt batteries and an inverter to provide low-current electricity for the cabin lights and fans to enable electrical self-sufficiency. A swimming pool nestles unobtrusively in the trees. In the restaurant are wildlife books and plaster casts of leopards’ paws — the cat is an occasional yet long-standing visitor. Some of Rom’s extremely interesting wildlife films can be viewed in the evenings. Jagdeesh, the guide at the camp, is an enthusiastic source of information on flora and fauna, and an invaluable companion as we wander through the tall trees and the dense hedgerows. His love of wildlife inspired a life change — previously an IT developer working in Bengaluru, he now lives in, and with, nature. A multitude of dragonflies dance in the greenery — sturdy brown ones that migrate to South Africa, an elusive grey damascene species, and others a glorious cherry red. Grasshoppers spring between quivering grass blades, vivid green stick insects defy detection, and swallowtail butterflies float by languidly. Red bugs, and electric-blue and metallicgreen beetles the size of bottle tops flash like polished gems in the sunlight. As evening draws in, and the light diminishes, the volume of birdsong increases. Here the ears will hear and the keen eye will see pitta birds, paradise flycatchers, coucal, woodpeckers, bats, and maybe owls. As darkness falls, we walk around the camp to set up the many infra-red cameras. Tonight may catch the passing of the elusive leopard, or porcupines, or a jackal. Only the morning’s examination of the cameras’ images will tell. An ultraviolet torch turns the sides of the pathways into fluorescent blue-green illuminated avenues — a chemical in the scorpions’ shells is reactive to UV light, so the creatures glow with alien intensity. And there are a lot of them. The night silence is punctuated only by an orchestra of frogs. 3

February 2014

6 a.m. Rom makes strong coffee before we all trek up the adjacent hill in Vallam. Our guides, Marcie and Vadivelu — Irula tribal snake catchers — accurately spot tracks and scat of porcupines, jackals and civet on our thorny climb. At every shrub, they describe the traditional use of the plants. This one is for headache, this for making beedi, this for cough, that for energy .... Their knowledge of the natural world is incredible, powerful. Later, they search for snakes; a Russell’s viper was spotted a few days ago, but it proves elusive today. Finding large scorpions, they handle them fearlessly and gently like pets; the scorpions lie docile on their hands. As the modern world encroaches on the lives of the Irula, their unique understanding of flora and fauna, handed down over generations, may be lost forever — just like the tall forest. Rom has initiated many projects to preserve the important cultural heritage of the Irula, such as collecting venom for antidote serum. Whether we spot a large cat or a bejewelled bug, we should be honoured by the beauty of nature, and understand how the preservation and understanding of their habitats, large or small, is crucial in these modern times. The Irula have lived in harmony with nature for centuries, and time spent at Karadi Malai will give a rare insight into a delicately balanced world we are all part of yet often fail to protect. 1 (Left page) Exploring the wild with Irula snake catchers. 1. Up close and personal with forest inhabitants; 2. Rom Whitaker and Janaki Lenin; 3. Eco-cabins at Karadi Malai camp. 1

February 2014

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Seeing India by Shefali Ganesh 'Bibi ka Maqbara' at Aurangabad; (Right) Lonar Crater Lake and Ajanta caves.

Deccan Detours 1 Aurangabad, in the historic Marathwada region, witnessed the battles of many an emperor who ruled the Deccan plateau The tall green fields of jowar (sorghum) seemed to sway to the rhythm of a welcome song. I was at Marathwada or Aurangabad, en route from Pune. The dusty, seemingly never-ending roads, were flanked by green lines of jowar and sugarcane on both sides, interspersed with puffs of fluffy cotton. The scene reminded me of the many archetypical, traditional rural scenes (possibly a throwback to the Indian movies I had seen?), until we chanced upon what seemed to be a stretch of peanut crop that was being irrigated by a modern sprinkler system. Millet and peanuts form most of Maharashtra’s staple diet. My perception of ‘rural’ India was further challenged when I saw a sizeably large vineyard that brought to mind stylish advertisements for vintage wines. Going past the green of the farms, we came by the industrial town of Waluch — home to the well-known Bajaj auto factory, which makes many of the two- and three-wheelers that populate India’s roads.

As we approached Aurangabad, I felt as if we were stepping away from the present-day, modern world into one where history still makes its presence felt. Also known as the ‘City of Gates’, Aurangabad once had around 50 gates or darwaza — most of them still standing, although some have fallen prey to neglect and ruin. These gates, I was told, were once used to monitor entry into the city, maybe even as a point for tax collection. It is tempting to regard the gates as a symbolic representation of the city’s chequered history. Aurangabad, owing to its strategic location in the Deccan plateau, saw an influx of rulers. The city had its humble origins in a small village named Khirki in the early 17th century. Its first ruler was Malik Ambar, a Prime Minister of the Nizam of Ahmednagar. Malik’s son, Fateh Khan, named the town Fatehpur; it later fell into the hands of the Mughal empire and was renamed Aurangabad. What followed was the longest

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rule by any Mughal ruler — Emperor Aurangazeb’s reign lasted for 40 years from the Deccan plateau. After Aurangzeb’s reign, the city was annexed by the Nizam of Hyderabad, and it became a part of the princely state of Hyderabad. After India became independent in 1947, all princely states were dismantled and integrated with the new republic. In 1960, the region encompassing Aurangabad and surrounding villages and towns was consolidated within the Maharashtra as ‘Marathwada’. When we started our tour of the city, I realised it was a lesson in architecture as well as history. Aurangabad owes much of its architectural splendour to the many kings who ruled these lands. We began with the ‘invincible’ Daulatabad Fort, which was built in the 13th century. It is a sobering thought that the towering ramparts have been silent witness to the many battles that were fought around it. The Daulatabad Fort houses the best in warfare implements of yesteryear — especially the Mendha cannon designed in Afghanistan, which is the second largest cannon in India. Further up, we visited the Chand Pillar — India’s second tallest pillar after the Qutub Minar in Delhi. The climb up the fort is sure to make you aware of how much more exercise you need, but the fantastic bird’s-eye view from the top makes for a worthy reward. The comparison to Delhi’s monuments is inevitable, thanks to the Mughal influence, as in the case of ‛Bibi ka Maqbara’ (‘wife’s mausoleum’ in Urdu). Also called the ‘Taj of the Deccan’, it is a replica of the Taj Mahal in Agra. The Bibi ka Maqbara was built by Azam Shah, Emperor Aurangazeb’s son, in memory of his mother Rabia al-Dorani. Although a poor cousin of the Taj, the scenic backdrop of the Deccan mountains makes up for the monument’s lack of grandeur. There are other landmark monuments in this area. The sculptures of the Ajanta and Ellora caves (both caves are located some distance apart from each other) are one such. So wondrous is the beauty of these rock-cut creations, that one needs to find a quiet moment — and a lonely corner away

February 2014

from the crowd — to take it in. A series of caves representing the Jain, Hindu and Buddhist faiths, the Ajanta is the more majestic of the two and is located atop the Waghora River. There are pockets in the caves where one can stand and look upon the river flowing below; if you are lucky, you might even see a mini waterfall. Sit on a rock, bask in the sun and watch the squirrels play hide-and-seek ... and a sense of peace descends on you. Lying well below the tourist radar is the magnificent Lonar Crater Lake, in the remote Buldhana district. Said to have been formed when a two-million-tonne meteorite crashed on the earth 50,000 years ago, Lonar is the world’s third largest crater. There is another, more interesting, mythological explanation: the town is named after a demon, Lavanasura, who angered the Gods by waging war against them. Lord Vishnu came in the form of Daityasudana, a young man, and buried the giant in the lake — with just a single touch of his toe! A narrow, steep track leads down to the lake — be warned that the climb upward will not be an easy one. At the edge of the lake is the Kamalaja Devi temple, which is frequented by locals. There are more than 10 temples located around the periphery of the lake, the most famous being the Daitya Sudan temple, which is famed for carvings that resemble those at Khajuraho. Even as the sun began its descent, I held a secret conversation with the orange-hued Hanuman who guards Goddess Kamalaja. As I rang the temple bell, the sun sank behind the mountains, bathing the Lonar Lake with its mellow warmth and a golden tinge. I reluctantly made my way back, but made a promise to return and continue my conversation with Hanuman. 1

February 2014

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"When you do things from your soul, you feel a river moving in you, a joy."

Photo Aurelie Marsan, France

Picture story by Team Culturama

Say it with love Come February, we all look forward to celebrating Valentineâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day, a day when we celebrate love. However, love comes in many forms â&#x20AC;&#x201C; each one unique to the person who shares it. And who has better described the many faces of love than Rumi, the renowned 13th-century Sufi poet? So, keeping in line with the celebration of love, we have put together a selection of images and Rumi's quotes that come together in a beautiful bouquet of tender emotions. The photographs have been picked from the entries sent to our Annual Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition. The photos were shot by expatriates from different nations, their subjects were Indian, the words that bring "Your task is not to seek for love, but merely to seek and find all the barriers within yourself that you have built against it." Photo Aurelie Marsan, France

out their essence are those of a Persian poet. What, if not this, can be a better example of the universal nature of an emotion that binds us all? 1

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"Lovers don't finally meet somewhere. They're in each other all along." Photo Carlo Sem, Italy

"Words are a pretext. It is the inner bond that draws one person to another, not words." Photo Aurelie Marsan, France

February 2014

"When I am with you, we stay up all night. When you're not here, I can't go to sleep. Praise God for those two insomnias! And the difference between them." Photo Marlon Pieris, Canada

"Be grateful for whoever comes, because each has been sent as a guide from beyond." Photo Thomas Brouns, USA Photo Carlo Sem, Italy

"Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t grieve. Anything you lose comes round in another form."

Photo Carlo Sem, Italy

February 2014

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February Calendar of events

Presenting the best of India’s events in different categories across Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai and nearby suburbs. Check out the 'Spotlight' section for the highlight of the month

Art & Exhibitions

Art Festival Chennai

Exhibition of Paintings Mumbai

South India’s premier art festival, Art Chennai, returns in its third edition. The festival will showcase paintings, sculptures and photography by well-known and emerging artists from India, Pakistan, Switzerland and Germany on the theme of environment, heritage and conservation. Art auctions and fairs are also part of the festival. Call +91-98400 91911 or visit www.artchennai.com for more details.

The Artisans Gallery will hold an exhibition of paintings of the late Ganesh Jogi. The artist was a musician from the nomadic Jogi community of Gujarat and was self-taught in the arts. Ganesh’s family, along with his wife Tejuben, has put together a collection of paintings that pay tribute to the talented artist. Call +91-22-2267 3040 for more details.

Date February 8—16 Venue Lalit Kala Akademi; Express Avenue Mall; DakshinaChitra; Elliots Beach

Date Ongoing till February 9 Time 1800—2000 hrs Venue Artisans, 52-56, Dr.V. B. Gandhi Marg, Kala Ghoda

Photo Exhibition Delhi The Hungarian Information and Cultural Centre will hold a photo exhibition titled ‘Gypsies in Transylvania’ by artist Bela Kasa. The artist, who was born in Pecs, Hungary, is a student of Art Photography, and has been researching folk music in Transylvania for more than two decades. His photographs of these musicians form the core of this exhibition. Call +91-11-2301 4992 for more details. Date Till February 14 Time 1000—1600 hrs Venue Hungarian Information and Cultural Centre, Janpath

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February 2014

Workshops & Events

Photography Exhibition Bengaluru

Charity Sports Event Chennai

See outstanding examples of photojournalism in this exhibition by leading photo-journalists Erich Salomon and Barbara Klemm. Salomon and Klemm have produced unique pictures with exceptional intensity. Their work is now regarded as a form of art as it sheds light on the political, social and psychological background of the events depicted. Call +91-80-252 05305 for more details.

Vidya Sagar, a school for special children, will hold its annual adventure challenge for corporates. The two-day event will have adventure activities such as wall rappelling, pitching of tents, shooting range tests, and more. This is an ideal event for corporates to give back to society, while helping to develop closer bonds developing closer bonds among team-mates. Call Madhulika at +91-9790 811630 or Ramah at +91-98401 34507, or visit www.sadya.org for more details.

Date Ongoing till February 13 Time 1830 hrs onwards Venue Goethe Institut, CMH Road, 1st Stage, Indiranagar

Date February 8—9 Venue Adventure Zone Campsite, Madurantakam

Storytelling for Children Bengaluru Ranga Shankara will conduct a folk tales session for kids on weekends through February. The stories will be told in English, Kannada and Hindi. Ranga Shankara also has many other programmes for children in the areas of theatre and storytelling. Call +91-80264 93982 for more details. Date February 1—28 Time 1000—1100 hrs Venue Ranga Shankara, JP Nagar

Sketching Workshop Bengaluru Venkatappa Gallery is hosting a creative sketching workshop, in which participants will learn to sketch across 10 different locations in Bengaluru. This is a great opportunity to discover different parts of the city and to perfect your sketching skills. Call +91-80-22863737 for more details. Date Ongoing till March 16 Time 1000—1230 hrs Venue Venkatappa Gallery, Kasturba Road

February 2014

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Photo Walk Chennai

Surajkund Crafts Mela Faridabad

The International Photography Society was set up by a group of photography enthusiasts in Chennai. Indians or expats in Chennai with a passion for photography and exploring the city are welcome. The group has planned a photo walk to Koyembedu Market and Alamparai Fort. Visit www.facebook.com/ events/225397297584040/ for more details.

The 28th annual Surajkund Crafts Mela is back with crafts, art, music, dance and food. Craftsmen from across the country will display their finest work, while folk dancers and musicians entertain crowds. The Mela grounds are spread over 40 acres, with more than 700 work-huts to house craftspeople. This year, Sri Lanka has been chosen as the partner nation, and the country’s best handlooms and handicrafts from the country will be showcased in the mela. Visit www.haryanatourism.gov.in for more details.

Date February 8 and 23 Venue Koyembedu Market and Alamparai Fort

International Film Festival Mumbai The 13th edition of the Mumbai International Film Festival is around the corner. One the most prestigious festivals in the documentary, short-film and animation genres, it is often compared to the film festival held at Berlin. This year, the festival offers the highest cash awards in its competition segment. Apart from which, there are also sections that offer workshops, master classes and seminars. Catch more than 6 films on each day of the festival. Visit www.miff.in for more details. Date February 3—9 Venue NCPA, Nariman Point, Mumbai

Date February 1—15 Venue Faridabad, Haryana

Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra Concert Chennai The Berlin Philharmonic Orchestra, one of the best orchestras in the world, will perform at Goethe Institut Chennai. Experience these exceptional musicians for yourself by means of the orchestra’s virtual concert venue and Goethe Institut’s state-of-the art-technology. Well-known classical pianist from Chennai, Anil Srinivasan, will give an introduction to every concert shown. Entry by invitation. Call +91-44-2833 1314 for more details. Date February 7 Time 1900 hrs Venue Digital Concert Hall, Goethe Institut Auditorium

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Postcard from India

rs e d n o W e d a m d n Ha ina

Mar ph was taken on This photogra ost gest and the m Beach, the lon is very ach in India. It magnificent be er, during kends. Howev crowded on wee and a tremely hot â&#x20AC;&#x201D; daytime, it is ex seen. The of the beach is different side ast with beautiful contr es ak m y sk blue ach. golden sand be errynd-operated m The colorful ha beach. rfectly on the go-round sits pe

a, Japan Photo Nana Oy

February 2014

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Spotlight by Team Culturama

Jonbeel Mela

Barter in progress at the Jonbeel Mela. PHOTO www.wikipedia.com; www.prokerala.com

1 The Jonbeel Mela is the only fair in India where the ancient barter system is still practiced — mark your calendars for this event, held in end January or early February in Assam

Just 30 km away from Guwahati, a historic tradition since the 15th century, is still in practice. The Jonbeel Mela, a three-day community fair, is held for the tribes of Assam to exchange their produce. Jon means the ‘moon’ and beel means ‘wetland’ — and the name of the mela is derived from the fact that the venue for the event is a wetland in the shape of a moon. Tribes such as the Karbi, Khasi, Tiwa and Jayantia come down from the hilly terrains to barter their products with the people from the plains. The community fishes in the wetlands of Jonbeel and the fish is bartered for rice and other grain. After the barter is over, a huge bazaar is held, where people can buy goods, such as country-made furniture. Traditional dance and music are also performed at the end of the mela. The mela stands for harmony and brotherhood between various tribes, and between the people of the hills and the plains. It is believed that the event was first organised by the Ahom kings of the North-East to discuss the political situations. The Assam government has approached the UNESCO with a request to declare the Jonbeel Mela as a heritage festival. 1

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February 2014

ADVERTISE

IN T HIS MAGAZINE

GLOBAL WELLNESS SERIES

Health is Wealth 1 Dr. K. Baraneedharan, Consultant Internal Medicine & Diabetologist, Global Hospitals, tells us why a regular health check-up is important.

There are different reasons why people go to the doctor — for checking on a symptom, or for monitoring specific health conditions such as diabetes or heart issues. Some go for an annual health check-up, but this is rare. A health check-up or routine examination involves a visit to a healthcare provider where the general condition of one’s health is assessed. Maintaining one’s health is a continuous process and involves personal effort to ensure that healthy practices are put into action. Benefits of Health Check-ups One of the most important benefits is the prevention of disease. Preventive health checks are important, especially for individuals with risk factors for different health conditions. A master health check-up can also aid in the early detection and treatment of a health problem such as cancer. The examinations and laboratory tests done during a

health check-up will vary, depending on the individual’s age, sex, family history and lifestyle. Health check-ups also promote better patientdoctor relationships and allow the doctor to promote healthy habits through patient education. What to Expect The doctor will ask about your health history — which includes family history, past immunisations, medical history, lifestyle and habits. A physical examination will also be conducted — the activities prescribed will depends on age, sex, and findings from the health history. Screening tests will also be done based on the family history, age and sex. A health check-up can help detect any existing health problems, so that they can be treated promptly. Each individual is different, and a personalised approach to check-ups can be valuable in maintaining one’s health. 1

February 2014

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Festival of the month Mahashivarathri February 27

Photo Johnny Baird, UK

Loosely translated, ‘Mahashivarathri’ means ‘the night of Lord Shiva’ and is observed in temples and homes across the country in a manner befitting the title. The important rituals include a fast that lasts for 24 hours, meditating on Lord Shiva through the night and worshipping the God with offerings of bilva or bael leaves. (Termed aegle marmelos, bilva leaves are referred to as Bengal quince, golden apple, stone apple or wood apple in other parts of the world.) There are several legends that explain the origins of this festival. When the world was facing pralaya or total destruction, Goddess Parvati — consort of Shiva — is said to have worshipped her husband to save the world — The Maha Puranas (a set of ancient Hindu texts) say that the day the world was saved was celebrated as Mahashivarathri. 3 Visit Ujjain, which Lord Shiva is believed to reside. Processions with idols of Lord Shiva are carried through the city. The chant to be recited is “Om Namah Shivaya”.

Vasant Panchami February 4

Photo Julie Chitty

Vasant, or the month of Spring, is heralded in Hindu mythology as the King of seasons. The fifth day of Spring is celebrated as Vasanth Panchami (panch means ‘five’ in Hindi). Celebrated more prominently in the northern parts of the country, the festival entails offering prayers to Saraswati, the Goddess of learning, to rid the worshipper of ignorance and lethargy. Vasant Panchami is also the time when preparations are begun for Holi, the Festival of Colour — a popular and much-anticipated occasion. 3 Vasant Panchami is commonly associated with the blooming of the yellow mustard flowers in the northern parts of India. When you take part in the celebrations, be sure to wear bright yellow ensembles, as the golden hue is the preferred colour of the day. Enjoy a repast of sweet yellow saffron rice, and have fun by participating in community dances.

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February 2014

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Holistic living by Eknath Easwaran

Touch of

kindness

1 Learning to be courteous even to those who treat us in a discourteous manner is the key to maintaining harmony in relationships Photo Carlo Sem, Italy

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Words leave lasting impressions. Dr. Wilder Penfield, the great Canadian neurosurgeon, described vividly the experiments that demonstrated how electric stimulation of the brain can revive experiences we thought were long forgotten. It’s all still there, recorded deep in consciousness – emotional depth charges ready to explode when they are triggered. Any little act or remark that fails the test of kindness — a joke, a wisecrack, thoughtless gossip, a judgmental opinion we pick up and pass on without consideration — can wreck a relationship, destroy trust, even cost a job. But the most glaring failure is the everyday quarrel. We just don’t seem to know how to disagree without being disagreeable. It starts simply enough: someone says something we disagree with, and for some reason we get angry. Or, of course, we say something they disagree with and they get angry. Either way, after just a few words, tempers fray and language starts deteriorating. How many times have I heard even educated people begin an emotionally charged dialogue with the best of intentions: “We won’t quarrel. Let us confine ourselves to the subject at hand.” Within five minutes one is saying, “That’s not what you told me last Saturday in front of the Wide World of Shoes!” And the other replies, “That wasn’t in front of the Wide World of Shoes. It was the Narrow World of Shoes.” Anything to quarrel, anything to contradict. After that, the argument has nothing to do with the subject. It is mostly “You must have done this even as a child” and “I’ve heard stories about the way you behaved in high school.” We may know we are being foolish, but by then we are caught; we can’t escape. All of us have been in arguments like this. Whenever I found myself caught in a foolish situation I used to ask my grandmother, “Granny, if you found yourself in a situation like this, what would you do?” It took years for me to understand her simple answer: “Son, I wouldn’t get into a situation like that.” This is very practical advice. Don’t get into quarrels in the first place. If you do find yourself getting caught in one, close your mouth, start your mantram, and take the closest exit. If you can, go for a fast walk — even five minutes will help to quiet your mind. You’ll be surprised at how effective this is. Even if somebody is being rude or unkind, it doesn’t help to be unkind in return. It doesn’t help the point you are trying to make, it doesn’t help them, and it doesn’t help you. The more unkind you are, the more angry the other person is going to be — and then the more angry you are going to be,

February 2014

5 Join Us Every Saturday India Immersion Centre in Chennai facilitates a weekly spiritual fellowship group following Easwaran’s Eight Point Programme of Meditation. E-mail us for more information at globalindian@globaladjustments.com. If you are in other cities, visit www.easwaran.org for e-satsangs.

until two people have ceased to be civilised human beings and have gone back to a previous stage of evolution. If we could see what happens in the mind at times like these, we would be embarrassed. The mind simply slips out of control, like a speeding car that careens all over the road. Only when we have some say in where our attention goes can we keep our hands on the wheel. That is where the mantram can help. When you see your mind beginning to speed up, step on the brake and stop the words that are about to burst forth. If necessary, put your hand over your mouth — or bite your tongue; it won’t hurt as much as words you’ll regret later. When you are sure your mind is under control again — and only then! — you can reply with words that are kind, constructive, and respectful. If we were to ask the Buddha why we lose control at times like these, he would point out that the mind never was really in our control in the first place. The very nature of the mind is to be fickle, distractable, constantly in motion — in a word, to do whatever it likes. It can’t bear not having its way. It can’t bear to be contradicted, so we get angry and lash out with hurtful words. Most of us would be chagrined to see the underlying message: “You aren’t worth my respect. My ideas are superior; you don’t count.” To break this cycle, we have to reverse the process and learn to be patient under provocation. That’s why the Buddha tells us to put up with hard words like an elephant shrugging off arrows. The Buddha, as a spiritual teacher, is telling us how to live in freedom instead of simply reacting to what others say and do. Shrug off the daily darts and arrows that life sends, he is telling us, but never shoot arrows at others. Never upset people with harsh words or actions. Never be unkind to them or treat them with lack of respect, however they might behave themselves. In other words, he is saying, we should be prepared for a certain amount of impoliteness and discourtesy in personal relationships, not because people are bad but because they can’t control their minds — just like us. 1 Reprinted with permission from ‘Strength in the Storm: Transform stress, live in balance & find peace of mind’ by Eknath Easwaran. Copyright The Blue Mountain Center of Meditation, P.O. Box 256, Tomales, CA 94971. Visit www.easwaran.org

February 2014

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Myth & Mythology by Devdutt Pattanaik

Who we dance for? 1 Dance in Indian tradition is not merely a form of entertainment — it is an art form by which even the Gods express ingrained wisdom With dance shows such a hit on television, I realised how much dance is a part of Indian tradition. We have connected with our gods through dance. Our gods dance! My friend, Mandakini Trivedi, the classical danseuse, once noted that dance is the only art form to exist both in time and space. Music does not occupy space, but it occupies time. Plastic arts do not occupy time but they do occupy space. Perhaps that is why dance is special: it cannot be captured. Every moment marks creation of one pose, one gesture, one expression and the destruction of another. There are different types of dance described in the Puranas. There is the dance of the apsaras, in Indra’s court. They are the nymphs who dance to the music of the gandharvas. They dance for the pleasure of the devas. They compete with each other. Often, kings are invited by Indra to judge the dance contest of the apsaras. They are the court dancers, those who exist for the entertainment of the king and his guests.

This is very different from Shiva’s dance. Popular mythology has it that Shiva danced when his wife, Sati, died. Thus dance was an expression of a mood: sorrow. The scriptures do not quite refer to this dance but it has become popular in retellings of Shiva’s lore. As a hermit, Shiva usually dances alone, in serene isolation, his eyes shut, blissfully unaware of anyone watching him. He dances for himself. To express his inner mood: peace, joy, sorrow. Those who watch him are spellbound. This is not dance for fun or entertainment. It is expression of an inner state. Occasionally, as in the Daruka forest, Shiva dances to symbolically communicate the secret of the Veda. This results in the spectacular form of Nataraja. Here, every gesture has a meaning. The idea of dance here is to communicate wisdom. If Shiva is Nataraj, then Krishna is Natwar. He dances too, but dances with eyes open, entertaining those around him, getting entertained by their amusement and joy. He dances on the hood of Kaliya to celebrate his victory over the serpent. More importantly, he plays the flute and dances with the milkmaids, the gopikas, in Madhuvan, at night, in secret, in the light of the full moon. He dances to communicate his love for Radha. He dances for her, and with her and because of her. And she dances to please him. This is mutuality at its best. Krishna, or Vishnu, as householder, always dances with a purpose, either to bind people together or even to defeat an enemy. As Mohini, he dances to kill the asura, Bhasma. Mohini insists that the asura, who has the power to reduce anything he touches to ash, match him in dancing step for step if he wishes to marry her. Bhasma agrees and in the course of the performance ends up touching his own head and turning into a heap of ash. Thus, dance has different manifestations. The apsara dances for someone else’s pleasure, Shiva dances for no one’s pleasure and Krishna dances for everyone’s pleasure as everyone dances for his. Three different forms of dance, three different expressions of human thought, manifesting simultaneously in space and time. 1 Published in Devlok, Sunday Midday, Nov. 12, 2012 Reprinted with permission from www.devdutt.com

PHOTO Deborah Miller, USA

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February 2014

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Every Drop Counts When Saint Francis of Assissi once walked along a beach that was strewn with heaps and heaps of stranded jelly fish, he kept throwing each fish back into the ocean. His companion asked, “There are so many millions more stranded — what difference does your act make?” “It makes a difference to THIS one” the Saint replied, smiling, as he threw one more back into the soothing waters. Thank you to AIKYA performers, family members and audiences for making this possible. Listen to their voices:

From the Beneficiaries E. M. Subramaniam — Ghatam exponent “I was a recipient of this award in the first year — 2010, and I have been receiving the pension every month. I cannot tell you the kind of security I have had after I started getting this amount. It has also proved lucky for me in some ways, with a revival of a few concerts for me. I am grateful to AIKYA, which raised funds for this lifetime pension.”

Sulochana — Self-help woman entrepreneur “When my husband died suddenly of tuberculosis a couple of years ago, my life came tumbling down. With two children to support, I was at a crossroad. That’s when AIKYA’s donation came, in 2012, handholding me by giving me a cow and teaching me via a marketing tie-up with a dairy to become independent. I became a breadwinner for my family and have regained selfconfidence in life.”

Sushmita — Medical student “I am very grateful to AIKYA for supporting my medical education in 2013. My father is a daily wage labourer, and my dream of becoming a doctor would never have come true if Global Adjustments had not supported me. Studying in the city has also made a big difference to my life.”

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February 2014

From the Artists

“I am very proud to have partnered with Global Adjustments for the very first AIKYA in 2010. The collaboration enriched musical ideas with so many little nuances! Thota Tharani’s artistic touch was spectacular. Bringing us together was fantastic. And everything was planned with such attention to detail. The show was unique and the audience was extremely elegant and appreciative.” — Aruna Sairam

“It was a memorable programme — to plan and perform AIKYA 2011 along with T. M. Krishna. The attention to detail of each aspect of the show made it a 3-D experience for the audience which is etched in my mind. The cause of retiring musicians and women's empowerment is worthy and AIKYA truly inspires even as it unites.” — Sudha Raghunathan “Being part of AIKYA was, for me, an extension of the aesthetic energy of life. Everybody at Global Adjustments came together with great intensity to create through AIKYA, not a show, an event or a performance, but a coming together of two artistes who shared their respective journeys — and, in this sharing, took everybody with them. Sharing artistic space with Vidushi Sudha Raghunathan was made possible only because of AIKYA — an evening that I treasure. The whole concert, from ideation to the actual musical evening, was precious.” — T. M. Krishna

“Performing at Global Adjustments’ AIKYA 2012 was a lovely experience. It gave me an opportunity to give much thought to an idea which I had nested for long. The concept that AIKYA gave me merged very well with my thought to be able to give a whole picture to the journey of a musician. Rarely is a concert presented with such dignity, aplomb and finesse.” — Bombay Jayashri

“Working with the Global Adjustments team for AIKYA 2013 on a thought-provoking theme of ‘Resolving Conflicts’ based on the Bhagvad Geeta, we experienced true aikya (convergence) of music, ideas, organisation and promotion. It was exhilarating to collaborate with such a team of passionate art promoters. The Global Adjustments team showed what meticulous preparation means in their management of the event. It gave us the opportunity to think out of the box and to also work with artistes across genres.” — Ranjani and Gayatri

February 2014

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Give to India by Shefali Ganesh

Picture of life 1 The Indian arm of the Mouth and Foot Painting Artists (IMFPA), based in Mumbai, is run by members who may be handicapped in body but not in spirit In November 2012, groups of artists gathered in different parts of the world to celebrate the 100th birth anniversary of Erich Stegmann, an artist. What was unique about the occasion was that the artists, and Stegmann himself, were all specially abled persons. Stegmann, a German, had lost the use of his hands due to polio, but he didn’t allow the tragedy to get in his way. He painted with his mouth. He created a revolution in the 1950s by inspiring specially abled artists like himself to become independent through creative pursuits. He also began an organisation, known as ‘Mouth and Foot Painting Artists’ (MFPA), in 1956. The organisation, which has spread its wings across the world, has also left its imprint on India. The principles of the society established by Stegmann remain the same to date: “To enable disabled artists to make

a living and provide them a platform to express their artistic talent”. Over the past five decades, it has grown from an eightmember team to a 700-member, 74-country, international organisation. In India, 18 artists who have lost the use of their hands or legs and paint with their toes/mouth are part of the MFPA (IMFPA in India). Paresh Padia, Institutional Sales Manager at IMFPA, says, “The association is run like a cooperative, and is owned wholly by its specially abled members, thus engaging their creative interests and giving them financial security.” The IMFPA artists’ creativity knows no bounds. They portray everything from scenes from the countryside, cheerful little children chasing butterflies, or Gods and Goddesses. All of this is reproduced in the form of greeting cards, calendars, coffee mugs, T-shirts and bags. Some

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February 2014

Paintings by the IMFPA artists, which are embossed on different products.

artists, like 22-year-old Janarthanan Kesavan have even won national- and state-level awards for their talent. Jana, who resides in Tamil Nadu, lost his arms in an accident when he was eight years old, and began to paint by holding a brush in his mouth. His efforts won recognition from former President Dr. A. P. J. Abdul Kalam. The IMFPA artists focus on painting; they are assured that the business of marketing these products is taken care of by able-bodied professionals employed by the Association. The Association gives the artist a monthly income for life, even if the artist suffers from ill-health. In addition, the IMFPA creates a platform for members to draw inspiration from each other. Conferences and exhibitions of artwork are organised, and association with key events like the Godrej Tour de India, a cycling event across various cities, also helps to highlight IMFPA’s cause. In all its initiatives, the motto of ‘self-help and not charity’ is maintained. The Association is run as a cooperative and does not qualify itself for charitable assistance. The members take pride in the work they do. Hope and independence are the legacy Erich Stegmann left behind for these special artists, and he lives on through their work. 1 3 Give to the artists: Your contribution will be added to a common fund that will be used to buy painting supplies for the artists. 3 Become a volunteer: IMFPA welcomes volunteers who can spread awareness about the handicapped artists or help through photography or graphic design. 3 Become a distributor: Established business persons with relevant experience can become a distributor for the products carrying the artists' work. 2 Buy the products: Visit www.imfpa.co.in for a full catalogue and to order the products. IMFPA is based at Andheri (East) in Mumbai. Call them at +91 22 40098877 or e-mail contact@imfpa.co.in for more details.

india • srilanka • maldives • and beyond

February 2014

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Postcard from India

of o r e h t n o s o a h C l and it

pa as taken in Bho The picture w bit the to signed exhi de e ag ll vi a of is part y and the making potter of s ay w s ou ri va ound the that are built ar types of houses 'Museum eve it is called country. I beli of tile was his piece of ro of Mankind'. T entative s and is repres al ib tr by e ad m t this Indian life â&#x20AC;&#x201D; bu of the chaos of ythical of! There are m time on your ro l looking fish, animals al , gs do , rs te ac char terested in rections all in di t en er ff di in doing. what they are Photo Marina

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February 2014

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Who’s There? Realty Bytes by Anita Krishnaswamy

Photo: Valade Christine, France

For all those niggling questions you might have on housing and realty in India, write to anita@globaladjustments.com My landlord thinks he has free access to our apartment. Whenever he has a relative from out of town, he brings them in to have a look — he says that the apartment is new and his extended family has not seen it! How do I put an end to these impromptu visits? Indian landlords are normally from a rich socio-economic background. As you might know, India has a noticeable rich–poor divide. Those who own property usually belong to the richer segment — real estate is an asset that appreciates in value, and most people from the richer classes tend to invest in property. When they construct a house of international standards, it is a symbol of high social standing. Also, a house that caters to expatriates’ living needs tends to include more amenities and is built using more expensive materials. So, let’s say someone builds such a house. When his family members or friends, especially those who live abroad, come to visit, he would be keen to show off his new house. This tendency to ‘share’ is very common in India. This is also applicable to Indians who live abroad but build a house back in the home country. Having said all this, there are landlords who understand what it means to lease out their property to expats — they realise that the house is now inaccessible for personal visits

or for showing it off to their family and friends. Even if a repair complaint has been made by the tenant, the landlord understands that he/she needs the tenant’s permission to visit the house. This need to fix an appointment beforehand is new in India. Anyone, from the milkman to electrician to landlord, would just walk in. Even up to 10 or 15 years ago, this was the case. In recent times, as we see more expats coming in to the country, people have understood that once their property has been leased out, access is restricted. There is a minimal fraction of landlords who believe that ownership gives them unlimited access to the property — your landlord is probably one of them, and I can say this is one of the rarer cases. Importantly, please understand that this arises due to lack of knowledge and exposure, and it is not an indicator of irresponsibility of any sort. To address this, you can put it across to your agent during the negotiation process that if the owner wants to visit, he should do so only after making an appointment. You don’t have to put it in the contract, but please have an email sent to the owner and agreed upon so that it is sorted out before you move in. If you have already moved in, talk to your landlord or agent to sort this out. Once they give their word, the landlord/manager will not go back on it. 1

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February 2014

4 Chennai Property ECR Exotic villa by the beach for rent • 6,600 sq.ft.; 5 bedrooms; 6 bathrooms • Architect-designed • 100% power back-up • 100% stabiliser • Covered car park

Injambakkam Extravagant bungalow for rent • Gated community • 9 bedrooms, luxury villa • 12,500 sq. ft. • Swimming pool, garden, lift • 100% power back-up

Besant Nagar Lovely house in the city for rent • 5 Bedrooms, 5,000 sq.ft. house in the city • Architect-designed • Bright and spacious • Covered car park • Street lined with beautiful tress • Quiet street; close to shops and amenities

Nungambakkam Centrally located apartment for rent • 2500 sqft • 3 bedrooms • Servants quarters & car park • Fully air-conditioned • Central area

“Thank you very much for finding the 'dream' house. I really appreciate all the effort you and the team put into this search. I know it was not easy but the success speaks for itself.” Michael Schmidt Managing Director, SUSPA Pneumatics “We are very comfortable in interacting with executives of Global Adjustments as they are very professional and transparent in their approach to both the tenants and landlords. Hats off to your team!” Poongodi and Viravan Landlord

“The entire team at Global Adjustments were very professional. It has been a pleasant experience working with all of you.” Mrs Geetha Raja Landlord and friend "I enjoyed working with the people from Global Adjustments to find a tenant for my beach house. They went about it very professionally and I look forward to working with them again." Kapila Avinash Landlord

For more properties, call Global Adjustments at 91 44 24617902/91 72999 12605 (Chennai), or e-mail: realty@globaladjustments.com Please note that any changes to the information above are done at the property owner’s sole discretion. Global Adjustments assumes no responsibility for such changes.

February 2014

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4 Bengaluru Property South Bengaluru House for Rent

North Bengaluru Apartment for rent

• 4 bedrooms • Independent house • Fully furnished • Quiet neighbourhood

• 3 bedrooms • Partially furnished • Gated community • Excellent interiors

Central Bengaluru

South Bengaluru

• 3 bedrooms • Semi-furnished • Apartment complex • Club amenities

• 2 bedrooms • Fully furnished • Apartment complex • Gated community

For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 80 41267152 /9986960315 or email: blr@globaladjustments.com

4 Delhi Property Gurgaon Magnolias – New Apartment for Rent

Gurgaon Pinnacle – Spacious Property for Rent

• 4 bedrooms, fully furnished • Air-conditioned • 100% power back-up, security, and club house • Tennis, squash, swimming pool, spa, restaurant and bar

• 4 bedrooms, air-conditioned • 100% power back-up, security, club house • Tennis court, swimming pool and restaurant

Delhi Vasant Vihar, Duplex Apartment for Rent

Rajokri farmhouse

• 4 bedrooms • Aesthetically designed, with character • Air-conditioned, 100% power back-up • With terrace

• 4 bedrooms, lounge • Swimming pool, well-maintained garden • Air-conditioned with power back-up • Nice location

For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 124 435 4236/ 981551070 or email: del@globaladjustments.com

4 Mumbai Property Bandra West Fully Furnished Apartment for Rent

Powai Large Apartment for Rent

• 4,200 sq.ft., 4 bedrooms • Open terrace, marble flooring • Modular kitchen, car parking • Gym, servant’s quarters

• 1,500 sq.ft., 3 bedrooms • Modular kitchen, two car parking spaces • Gym, garden, swimming pool

Powai Spacious Apartment for Rent

Powai Furnished Apartment for Rent

• 1,377 sq.ft., 2 bedrooms and study • Furnished, modular kitchen, marble flooring • Car parking space, swimming pool, gym

• 1,050 sq.ft., 2 bedrooms • Modular kitchen, garden • Car parking space, servant’s quarters

For the above sample and many more such properties call 91 22 66104191/ 9769001515 or email: mum@globaladjustments.

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February 2014

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