Culturama January 2015 by Rohini Manian

culturama your cultural gateway to india

Painted Prayers

The drawing of kolam and rangoli is an act infused with cultural significance

Thought Leaders

Begin the New Year with inspiration from former Indian President Dr. A.P.J. Abdul Kalam

January 2015 Volume 5, Issue 10

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January 2015

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Dear Readers, Some days back, I left a message on Facebook for a few friends, asking them about how they were doing. Work and personal life took over and I forgot to visit Facebook for a while. When I went back to my page, it was inundated with news both good and bad. A lovely expatriate couple (who had formerly lived in India), with even lovelier children, were filing for divorce as love had apparently run out. Another's teenage daughter was suffering from a series of mini strokes. A third had lost his wife to cancer. A fourth had lost his job. A fifth had had a nephew onboard the MH370 Malaysian airlines flight that disappeared.

January 2015

It was overwhelming to see how life had happened while they were making other plans. It brought home the point that NOW is the only time that matters. Engrossed in today, let's not carry burdens of past regrets or worries about the future. I am delighted to also share the good news that came in alongside those mentioned. A dear friend’s daughter, a doctor, is getting married to an entrepreneur and they are going to start a hospital to serve rural India. The news of an expat couple who had met while in India, and are going to team up to settle down in Greece, just came in. A returning diplomat told me she had chosen an India posting a second time, and will be bringing along her recently born baby girl. Life is indeed what happens while we make ot her plans. So let's start 2015 dedicating ourselves to now, going towards one big vision. For Global Adjustments, 2015 is special, as the company that brings you Culturama, turns 20. Joanne Grady Huskey and I started with the aim of helping expats settle into India. (Joanne Huskey was awarded the Purpose Prize in 2014 – turn to Page 22 for more.) Our two-member team is now a 60-member family across India. A singlepage newsletter is now this 80-page full-colour magazine. All throughout, our aim has remained unchanged – to serve in t he understanding of India. We turn for inspiration in this special first issue of the new year to an icon who has done it best. Please meet scientist, mentor, former President of India – Dr. A.P.J. Abdul Kalam, as our Thought Leader for this month (Page 14). Wishing you a wonderful year ahead, starting NOW. Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief globalindian@globaladjustments.com

culturama – Subscribe Now! Get your copy of Culturama as a hard copy or as an e-magazine visit www.culturama.in to subscribe For other enquiries, email us at culturama@globaladjustments.com or call us at +91-44-2461 7902

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Credits For the festival of Pongal (January 14 and 15), people paint pots, in which rice and milk is boiled, a sign of bounty. This young lady was making a special Pongal pot. Photo: Prem Kumar

Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Associate Editor Yamini Vasudevan Business Head Sheeba Radhamohan

Letters to the editor

Sub-Editor Shefali Ganesh

Dear Editor,

Senior Designer Prem Kumar

“Every time I read Culturama, I have an ‘Aha!’ moment. I would have just wondered about something Indians do, and the answers would come to me in the magazine!”

Finance Controller V Ramkumar Circulation S Raghu Advertising Bengaluru Meera Roy Chennai Amritha Suresh Delhi/NCR Neha Verma Mumbai/Pune Tasneem Sastry To subscribe to this magazine, write to circulation@globaladjustments.com or access it online at www.culturama.in Chennai (Headquarters) 5, 3rd Main Road, R A Puram, Chennai – 600028 Telefax +91-44-24617902 Email culturama@globaladjustments.com Bengaluru 17/16, Ali Asker Road, Off. Cunningham Road, Bengaluru – 560 052 Mobile +91 99869 60316 Email culturamablr@globaladjustments.com Delhi-NCR 1414, DLF Galleria Tower, DLF Phase IV, Gurgaon, Haryana – 122009 Mobile +91-124-4389488 Email del@globaladjustments.com Mumbai #1102, 11th floor, Peninsula Business Park, Tower B, SB Road, Lower Parel, Mumbai – 400013 Tel +91-22-66879366 Email mum@globaladjustments.com Published and owned by Ranjini Manian at #5, 3rd Main Road, Raja Annamalai Puram, Chennai – 600028, and printed by K Srinivasan of Srikals Graphics Pvt Ltd at #5, Balaji Nagar, 1st Street, Ekkattuthangal, Chennai – 600032 Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian Disclaimer Views and opinions expressed by writers do not necessarily reflect the publisher’s or the magazine’s.

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Dear Editor,

“I have been receiving my online issue of Culturama for more than a year now. I love the ‘Seeing India’ column, and save them so we can visit those places in future.” Humera Rizwan, UK

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“I came across Culturama on my recent visit to India. I like the insights to India that the magazine gives, and I am now an online subscriber.” Shanawaz K., USA

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Culturama’s contributors 01 Susan Philip is a freelance writer based in Chennai, and the editorial coordinator of Culturama’s various coffee table books. 02 Devdutt Pattanaik is the Chief Belief Officer of the Future Group, and a writer and illustrator of several books on Indian mythology. Visit www.devdutt.com

04 Dr. Mariazeena Johnson is the Managing Director of Sathyabama University. Her aim is to impart value-based education to the students of her university.

03 Peter Dixon is an Australian software architect, who is based in Chennai. He loves eating Indian food, but is nursing an RSI in his hand, from over enthusiastically tearing dosas every day.

05 Preeti Verma Lal is a New Delhi-based freelance writer/ photographer. If God had asked her what she wanted to be, she’d tell Him to turn her into a farmer who also writes lyrically; her fingers stained with wet clay and deep blue ink. www.deepblueink.com

Advisory Board members 06 N. Ram is an award-winning journalist and former Editorin-Chief of The Hindu. He is Director of Kasturi & Sons Limited, publishers of The Hindu. 07 Suzanne McNeill lived in India for seven years, first in Chennai and then in Delhi. She has now returned to Scotland, where she works as a freelance writer and graphic designer.

08 Babette Verbeek is a correspondent for BNR Nieuwsradio who previously worked in Amsterdam and Milan. Now she joyfully explores the beauty of South Indian culture. 09 Marina Marangos is a lawyer by profession but enjoys travel and writing. She lived in India for four years before moving to Australia. She blogs at www.mezzemoments.blogspot.com

10 G. Venket Ram is an acclaimed photographer and the creative mind behind many a Culturama issue. To know more about his work, log on to www.gvenketram.com 11 Kathelijne van Eldik, from Holland, has been in Mumbai since 2004. Her employment with an airline is not a surprise, considering she has been raised in different countries and has it in her DNA to travel.

12 Marcel Van Mourik is a Dutch photographer living in New Delhi for the past three years. Together with his cameras, he is passionate about discovering Indian culture.

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Contents Regulars 14 Thought Leaders Former Indian President Dr. A.P.J. Abdul Kalam talks about the requirements to create a culture of excellence.

India Now

A recap of events, people and places that made news in the past month.

32 Feature

India Writes

A space for discussing the best from India’s world of literature.

Kolam and rangoli – pattterns drawn with white and coloured flour – are an aesthetic and spiritual aspect of daily ilfe in India.

India’s Culture 10

Short Message Service

Short, engaging snippets of Indian culture.

In your Kitchen

Three states, three delicacies – all celebrating a bountiful harvest.

Festival of the Month

Ring in Christmas cheer by participating in the festivities.

We talk to Joanne Grady Huskey, co-founder of Global Adjustments and winner of the Purpose Prize in 2014.

Myth & Mythology

Stories from India’s mythology, reinterpreted for practical living.

Journeys Into India

In Focus Ten for the Road

Trivia about an Indian state – featuring Jharkhana this month.

Look Who’s In Town

Expats in India share their stories on a practical theme for everyday survival in this country.

At Global Adjustments

We pay tribute to our sponsors and supporters, especially those who were part of the 17th Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition.

Calendar of Events

See what’s going on in the main metros and suburbs.

The Lighter Side

Contrary to expectations, parties held during the winter months in Delhi are not a good time for showing off your clothes or accessories.

66 50

Seeing India

Take a ride on a Royal Enfield from Chennai to Mangalore, or walk through the old lanes of Bhopal in Madhya Pradesh.

Holistic Living

Realising that we are all children of God, and acting upon that awareness, can bring about a much needed spiritual revolution.

Give to India

Featuring worthy NGOs and charitable organisations across the country.

Relocations and Property 72

Space and the City

Property listings across the metros.

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SMS 10

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by Suzanne McNeill Short cultural snippets for an easily digestible India

Art, Textile and Craft Parsi Gara Embroidery

yst

: Ameth Photo

Intricate and exquisite, gara hand embroidery adorns the borders of the unique saris worn by India’s Parsi women. The origins of gara embroidery are to be found in China – as Parsi merchants traded with the Chinese during the 19th century, they brought back embroidered silk brocades, which were copied and reinterpreted by local craftsmen.The motifs, stitched in singlethread satin stitch, include exotic flowers such as lilies, chrysanthemums and peonies, trees including weeping willows and bamboo, and peacocks and swans. Some designs still carry pagodas and pavilions. For Parsi girls, the ceremony of the sari perawanu, when a girl wears a gara sari for the first time, is a rite of passage.

Food and Drink

Words

Rice is the main crop of the central Indian state of Chhattisgarh, and constitutes part of the staple diet. Fried rice dumplings are a festive dessert that is usually prepared at Diwali. The rice is soaked for several hours and then ground to a coarse paste. Curd is added to form a dough, which is kneaded and left to ferment overnight. The dough is divided into small balls, flattened to a round shape, and deep-fried in ghee. The dumplings are always served with sugar syrup, made by dissolving sugar in water, adding cardamom and ground cloves and boiling the syrup until it is thick. This is poured onto the fried dehrori and garnished with dried fruits.

The Hindu goddess Kali is the fierce form of the mother goddess, Durga. The name comes from the word kāla, which means eternal time. It is also the feminine form of kālam, meaning ‘black’ or ‘dark’. Kali is worshipped most widely in Kolkata as the goddess who destroys evil. Khali entered the Indian languages from Persian, where it means ‘empty’. It is often used as slang with body language – so tapping the forehead and saying khali means ‘dumb’, whilst gesturing with one’s wallet and saying khali means ‘broke’.

Dehrori from Chhattisgarh

Kali vs Khali

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Photo: Ben Bowling, USA

Urban Adventure

Interpretations

The bazaars of Jaipur’s old town are both orderly and vibrant, and are renowned for textiles, jewellery and precious and semi-precious stones. Jaipur is a famous production centre for traditional kundan jewellery (where multi-coloured gemstones are set in gold foils within a gold framework), often backed by Rajasthani meenakari (enamelled) work. These are the most sought-after items, but the bazaar also offers tribal and silver jewellery, and traditional and contemporary bracelets, pendants, rings and earrings. Johari bazaar attracts many Indian shoppers as well as tourists, creating a lively atmosphere. The traders are notoriously pushy, so bargain hard and be prepared to walk away!

At the heart of the Hindu festival of Raksha Bandhan, which celebrates the relationship between a brother and a sister, are these sacred bracelets, made of brightly coloured threads and decorated with beads and amulets. The word raksha means ‘protection’, whilst bandhan is the verb ‘to tie’. During the ceremony, in the presence of family members, the sister ties the rakhi bracelet around her brother’s wrist, offering a prayer for his happiness and prosperity as she does so. In turn, her brother pledges to love and protect her. Raksha Bandhan typically takes place in August, and can extend to celebrate any brother-sister-like relationship, so it is quite common to hear someone calling someone else a ‘rakhi brother’ or ‘sister’ and treating him or her as real family.

Johari Bazaar, Jaipur

He Lives On

Mandolin U. Srinivas Uppalapu Srinivas (February 28, 1969 to September 19, 2014) was a prodigiously gifted maestro of the mandolin. He first heard the instrument being played when he was five, and was so thrilled by the sound that his father immediately bought him one. He gave his first performance at the age of 10. Srinivas recognised the scope of this Western instrument, and adapted the number of strings to suit, and moved from acoustic mandolin to electric for the clarity of the long notes it produced, creating a highly personalised style within the rigorous strictures of Indian Classical music. A modest, softspoken man who played with consummate ease, Srinivas gained worldwide fame through his collaboration with musicians from all genres beyond India, and toured the world. Popularly known as ‘Mandolin’ U. Srinivas, he was awarded the Padma Shri at the age of just 29. Music lovers around the world were devastated by the news of his untimely death at only 45 years old. Here he is in concert in 2013: http://tinyurl.com/Srinivas-in-concert.

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Thought Leader by Mariazeena Johnson

Culture of Excellence

During a recent visit to the Sathyabama University, Dr. A.P.J. Kalam shared his thoughts on the need to strive for excellence in word and deed with the students – his message, however, is not to be limited to the education sector. all Culturama readers can benefit from these thoughts, which are the essence of experience and wisdom It was a big day for the faculty and the management of Sathyabama University to welcome former President Dr. A.P.J. Abdul Kalam to inaugurate the Centre for Excellence in Energy Research. His mere presence was enough to inspire the young minds to strive for higher goals and excellence in all they do. If there was any doubt about the message reaching home, Dr. Kalam’s speech made sure it did. What will I be remembered for? His talk, based on the theme of “What will I be remembered for?” focused on key points from Empires of the Mind by Denis Wailtey. He stressed on the principles of working with integrity, and made it clear that innovation was the key to moving forward – after all, “what worked yesterday won’t work today”. A highlight of the discussion was his sharing that innovation stems from creativity – and “creativity comes from beautiful minds”. As Dr. Kalam says, “It can be anywhere and any part of the world. It may start from a fisherman’s hamlet or a farmer’s household or a dairy farm or cattle breeding centre or it could emanate from classrooms or labs or industries or R&D centres…A creative mind has the ability to imagine or invent something new by combining, changing or reapplying existing ideas. A creative person has the following – an attitude to accept change and newness, a

Dr. Mariazeena Johnson, MD of Sathyabama University, shares with readers thoughts by Dr. A.P.J. Abdul Kalam Photos: Courtesy Sathyabama University

willingness to play with ideas and possibilities, a flexibility of outlook, the habit of enjoying the good, while looking for ways to improve it…Innovation and creativity ultimately result in a culture of excellence.” A story that inspires – Dr. Kalam, as a student, spent three days working on a project, without sleep, to make sure it met the Professor’s expectations. The reason behind the frenzy of work was the threat of his scholarship being terminated if the project was not completed on time. The experience taught him the value of time, and that “if something is at stake, the human mind gets ignited and the working capacity gets enhanced manifold”. Mario Capecchi, who was awarded the prestigious Nobel Prize for his work in genetics in 2007, is another inspiration, says Dr. Kalam. Capecchi had suffered several setbacks in life – including an economically deprived childhood, but did not allow them to stand in the way of achieving his life’s aim. The story helped establish in our minds that, no matter “who you are”, if you make up your mind to achieve great things, you can do so.

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10-POINT GUIDE FOR EXCELLENCE So long as the goal is excellence, organisations willl always work towards bettering themselves. The following points by Dr. Kalam act as timely reminders for all. 1. Institutions should empower themselves with knowledge.

This letter was sent 10 years back to At A Glance, as Culturama was earlier called. Dr. Kalam′s words were, and still are, a reminder that good work is its own ambassador to the world

“Excellence is a process, where an individual or organisation or nation continuously strives to better oneself.” The Path to Greatness The way to go about achieving big things in life? By inculcating “excellence in thinking and action”. In explaining this concept, Dr. Kalam says, “…excellence is not by accident. It is a process where an individual or organisation or nation continuously strives to better oneself…While striving to work to potential, in the process, performance is increased, thereby further multiplying the potential; and this is an unending life cycle phenomenon. Individuals are not in competition with anyone else, but themselves. That is the culture of excellence.” This speech could not have come at a better time – as we enter a new year, we have his words to guide us to greater heights at a professional and personal level. In doing so, we hope to serve our nation better and aspire to raise its standing on the global stage.

2. They should act as enablers for intersection of multiple talents to achieve common goals. 3. They should enrich themselves through constant awareness of sustainable development. 4. They should inculcate sensitivity to the needs of all the stakeholders. 5. They should promote team spirit. 6. They will be judged by their innovation and ways of promoting creativity. 7. They should constantly try to evolve and become more competitive with knowledge, management and technology. 8. They should prioritise the inculcation of value addition at every level. 9. They should value feedback and take action based on the feedback. 10. Institutions have to imbibe the concept of �work with integrity� and �success with integrity�.

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India now by Susan Philip

The month that was

As we enter a new month, we take a quick recap of events, people and places that made news in the past month

Politics and Polity Scientifically Speaking

Putin in India

Another High Five for ISRO

India and Russia signed deals worth billions of dollars in the fields of nuclear power, oil and defence, during the visit by Russian President Vladimr Putin to India. Prime Minister Narendra Modi assured the visiting President during the first formal summit between the two leaders after Mr. Modi took office, that Russia would remain India’s top defence supplier. In reply, Mr. Putin reiterated Russia’s appreciation of the long history of trust and friendship between the two nations.

Time magazine has named India’s Mars Spacecraft Mangalyaan among the best inventions of 2014. Developed by the Indian Space Research Organisation (ISRO), the spacecraft is optimally equipped and extremely cost-effective. It also, said Time, “allows India to flex its interplanetary muscles, which portends great things for the country’s space programme and for science in general”. The list, selected by the magazine, comprises inventions that are “making the world better, smarter and – in some cases – a little more fun”. Did you know that two other inventions on the Time list have India connections: Nalini Nadkarni helped develop an exercise space for prisoners in solitary confinement with Snake River Correctional Institution in Oregon, and Pramod Sharma, formerly with Google, developed ‘Osmo’ – a unique gaming accessory for the iPad, which fosters social intelligence and creative thinking by opening up the endless possibilities of physical play for children.

Q. The new year will bring another important guest to India. Can you name him? Ans: United States President Barack Obama, who will be the Chief Guest at the Republic Day celebrations on January 26. With Indo–US relations set to soar, watch out for ‘Make (It) in India: Global CEOs, Indo-US Insights’, a new book by Global Adjustments founders Ranjini Manian and Joanne Grady Huskey, in which they interview top global CEOs on real-life bicultural tips to build business bridges. The book is published by Tata Westland.

Sports Spots A Striking Honour Baichung Bhutia, former captain of the Indian Football Team, became the first footballer from the country to be inducted into the Hall of Fame of the Asian Football Club (AFC). He was conferred the honour at Manila on the occasion of the AFC’s 60th anniversary. Receiving the award, Baichung said it was not only for him, but for Indian football and “for all Indian footballers who have to struggle against all odds to prove themselves every single day.” (The AFC is the governing body for football for the whole of Asia.) Q: Baichung’s shooting skills are legendary. Do you know his nickname? Ans: Sikkim Sniper!

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January 2015

From India, to the world The United Nations has declared June 21 as the International Day of Yoga. The world body adopted a resolution led by India in this regard. The resolution, adopted under ‘Global Health and Foreign Policy’, acknowledges that “Yoga provides a holistic approach to health and well-being”. The date was chosen on the suggestion of India’s Prime Minister Narendra Modi, who, in an earlier address to the UN General Assembly, had made a strong case for such a recognition for Yoga, and said that, as the summer solstice, June 21 was the longest in the Northern Hemisphere, and considered significant in many countries. The resolution created history on two counts – it was co-sponsored by a record 175 countries. It was also the first time that such a recommendation was proposed and implemented in less than 90 days by any country in the United Nations.

End of an Era Legends don’t die Justice V.R. Krishna Iyer, a former judge of the Supreme Court of India, passed away on December 4, bringing down the curtain on an illustrious judicial career. He had celebrated his 99th birthday on November 15. Justice Krishna Iyer was responsible for many landmark judgements, especially on human rights, civil liberties and environmental issues. His interpretations of the Constitution are regarded as benchmarks by the judiciary and will live on. Admired for his command over the English language, Justice Krishna Iyer has written about 70 books. Most of them are on subjects relating to law, but four are travelogues. Q: Justice Iyer was awarded the Padma Vibhushan, one of the highest civilian honours given by the Government of India. He was also conferred ‘The Order of Friendship’, the highest civilian award for a foreigner, by another country. Can you name that country? A: Russia

Business Matters Welcome to India! The Government of India has extended online visa facilities to 43 countries. The electronic travel authorisation (ETA), which will be made available within 72 hours of application, will be valid for 30 days. The countries that are covered include the United States, Australia, Japan, Germany, Russia, United Arab Emirates, Korea and Singapore. Visitors can use the e-visas at airports in the capital city New Delhi, as well as at Mumbai, Chennai, Kolkata, Bangalore, Hyderabad, Goa, Kochi and Thiruvananthapuram. The move is expected to give a big boost to the tourism industry.

Arty Happenings Getting it Write Ramachandra Guha’s book Gandhi Before India has been named among the ‘100 Notable Books of 2014’ by the editors of the New York Times Book Review. Five other authors of Indian origin also figure in the list: Akhil Sharma for Family Life in the Fiction and Poetry section; Atul Gawande for Being Mortal: Medicine and What Matters in the End in nonfiction; Vikram Chanda for The Greek Sublime: The Beauty of Code, the Code of Beauty; Anand Gopal for No Good Men Among The Living: America, the Taliban, and the War Through Afghan Eyes; and Anand Gopal for The True American: Murder and Mercy in Texas. For those with a literary bent of mind, Chennai’s The Hindu Literary Festival, titled ‘Lit for Life’, is the place to be during January. To learn more, and reserve passes, see http://www.thehindulfl.com/

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India writes

iREAD

Gifted: Inspiring Stories of People with Disabilities by Sudha Menon and V.R. Ferose

Reviewed by Yamini Vasudevan

The royalty from the sale of this book will go to Enable India, an organisation that works for people with disabilities. For more information, please visit www.giftedthebook.com

If leadership is about courage and the ability to overcome unsurmountable challenges, the stories of these individuals will be the best lesson. Who are the ‘individuals’ referred to? Children, young adults, adults. They come from different religions, economic strata and linguistic backgrounds. Each of them was also affected by, and is living with, one (or more) debilitating physical problem(s). The common thread running through their lives is their ability to overcome these limitations – ranging from loss of sight to cerebral palsy to the loss of limbs – and live life to the fullest. These stories are more than just tear-jerkers. From the lack of clothes with roomy sleeves to fit prosthetic arms to unsympathetic peers who shun a sick classmate for coughing through the night, they all touch on practical difficulties faced by people with physical disabilities. Many things ‘normal’ people take for granted are hurdles in the daily lives of the differently abled – such as the lack of ramps in buildings for those who use wheelchairs. One thing becomes clear – these people have had to muster up determination not just to study or work despite their disability, but also to overcome the roadblocks that arise because of lack of understanding and opportunity. In many cases, they become trailblazers – forging new paths and taking advantage of lesser known options to make a living. While condescension or pity is unwelcome, so is insensitivity or social exclusion. For example, when a woman, who, as a young girl, had lost both arms in a grenade explosion, told people that she was going to get married, the first question was about the disability that her partner had. Her partner was not specially abled, but it was assumed he had to be in order to marry her. Many parents of physically challenged children have faced problems in finding a school that would take in their son or daughter – let alone treat them with dignity and compassion. One wonders how much easier it would be for the person in question, and for his/her family, if more avenues of support were made available. A second and more sobering thought is that for every one of these success stories, there might be many more that speak of a completelydifferent experience. It is precisely to turn this situation around that such books and initiatives are necessary – hopefully, this small step will, one day, become that giant leap for mankind.

About the Authors Sudha Menon, a former journalist and current newspaper columnist, is the author of Legacy and Leading Ladies: Women Who Inspire India. She is also the founder of ‘Get Writing!’ and ‘Writing In the Park’ – workshops that help budding writers to kickstart their creative work. V.R. Ferose is Senior Vice President and Head of Globalisation Service for SAP AG. He is also the founder of the ‘India Inclusion Summit’ – a platform that champions inclusion in daily life.

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In Focus by Susan Philip

A Purpose Well Served Nothing can limit the human mind from achieving – certainly not age. Each A committed educator, year adds to the wealth of experience. The dawn of each year brings new diplomat and overall inspiration, Joanne Grady opportunities to tap this wealth to make life better for someone. That’s what the Encore Foundation proclaims and celebrates, through its Purpose Prizes. Huskey is more than Culturama raises three cheers for Global Adjustments’ co-founder Joanne just the co-founder of Grady Huskey, who is among this year’s Purpose Prize winners. She was Global Adjustments. awarded for her work with iLive2Lead, which she co-founded in 2010. We speak to the winner What is iL2L all about, Joanne? of the Purpose Prize, We are a non-profit organisation based in Washington D.C., reaching out awarded by the Encore to young women across the globe. iLive2Lead aims to provide teenage girls Foundation for her throughout the world with personal encouragement and leadership skills, work helping young and inspire them to think of themselves as global citizens who can make a women across the globe difference and lead change.

What prompted you to start such an organisation? Over the past 25 years, I have lived and worked in China, India, Kenya and Taiwan, where I saw first-hand, the degraded status and hopelessness of women. But I also saw in these places that empowered women are the best agents for changing entire societies. The turning point was the bombing of the US Embassy in Nairobi in 1998. I was a victim of the violence, and after that experience, I committed to promoting global understanding as a crosscultural trainer and educator. I co-founded iLIVE2LEAD (www.iL2L.org) in 2010 with two other women as a part of this commitment. I drew on my experience of various cultures to help formulate the unique curriculum of iLive2Lead that trains women in skills important to successful leadership – having a vision, planning, communicating, connecting, and stepping forward to lead. I cannot think of a more rewarding way to give back to the nations where I have lived, to provide women with a global perspective, and to continue to contribute to the world as an educator, diplomat and woman, than by inspiring women, young and old, to be all that they can be.

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Joanne Grady Huskey, co-founder of Global Adjustments and winner of the Purpose Prize in 2014

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document their projects in the media, online, and at leading international women’s conferences, providing inspiration for youth worldwide.

Is it an ongoing effort? Are there opportunities for eligible young women to participate in such programmes, going forward? Visit the website at www.iL2L.org or follow iL2L on Facebook at iLIVE2LEAD Young Women’s Leadership Summits. Interested eligible young women can apply to be part of events. This year, iLIVE2LEAD will host the fourth programme held in China to promote leadership in the environment. This year’s iL2L International Youth Leadership Summit on Environment will be held in Guizhou, China, in August.

How do you feel, receiving the Purpose Prize?

Joanne Huskey (right) with Ranjini Manian

What are some of iL2L’s significant milestones so far? In five years, iL2L has held 12 international training summits in Europe, Asia, Latin America and Africa and reached out to over 700 young people from over 50 nations.

Was such a programme held in India? Indeed it was. The India Immersion Centre at Chennai was the venue. Twenty-one young girls attended the programme, and were mentored by the likes of Kate Sweetman, former Harvard Business Review Editor, financial expert Asha Mathen and politician Poongothai Balaji. They received inputs on subjects as varied as etiquette, grooming, handling personal finances and maintaining work–life balance. They participated in a round table discussion with US diplomats. Anuradha Rao, the most promising of the young leaders, was selected to attend the iLIVE2LEAD international summit in Washington DC the following year.

How have the girls grown and developed? Each iL2L participant, aged between 15 and 23 years, gives back to her community in the form of an I Commit to Act Now (iCAN) project. These outstanding iL2L graduates have developed community projects in health, education, the environment, micro-business and social work in their home countries. iLIVE2LEAD continues to follow and mentor the girls after the summits to help them achieve and

It was an honor to receive the Purpose Prize fellowship, most especially because I was among a group of other Purpose Prize fellows, all of whom are doing fascinating work in various fields and giving back to their communities across the United States and the world.

Tell us something about the Purpose Prize Well, briefly, The Purpose Prize is the pre-eminent award given in the United States to people over the age of 60, who are combining their life skills and talents for the social good. A programme of Encore.org (formerly Civic Ventures), a nonprofit organisation that is building a movement to tap the skills and experience of those in midlife and beyond, to improve communities and the world, it recognises social innovators over 60 years of age who are dedicated to finding solutions to challenging social problems. To quote Eunice Lin Nichols, director of The Purpose Prize, those conferred the award are considered “powerful examples for the millions of Americans who believe that using their life experience to make a difference – big or small, across communities, continents and generations – is a vital responsibility.” The Prize is significant, I think, because it acknowledges the value of age and experience, against the background of the current emphasis on the power and potential of youth. So far, the Prize, which was created in 2005 by Encore. org with major investments from the Atlantic Philanthropies and the John Templeton Foundation, has honored over 430 people in the past nine years. There were 38 winners in 2014.

What are the plans for the future? As a mentor, role model and trainer of women worldwide, I draw on my life experience as an actress, public speaker and cross-cultural trainer to inspire new generations of women to

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January 2015

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Joanne uses her global experience to help in a variety of causes; (Right) Joanne training girls for a iLIVE2LEAD Summit at Washington DC

be change makers and contribute to their societies. In the past year, we have initiated a new programme to work with women over 50. iLIVE2LEAD plans to start the Institute for Women in Transition, who seek fulfillment and meaning in this stage of their lives. We will use our leadership curriculum to aid women achieve their dreams.

Tell us about another Purpose Prize awardee who impressed you. It is difficult to name just one. But perhaps Ray Umashankar, who hails from India, will be of special interest to you. Inspired by his American-born daughter Nita’s desire to do something for the marginalised children of sex workers and victims of trafficking in his native country, he and his wife created the Achieving Sustainable Social Equality through Technology (ASSET) India Foundation, which partners with reputable NGOs in India to provide English and computer literacy to survivors of sex trafficking and children of sex workers, and to find them remunerative employment. He told me that ASSET India Foundation is currently working with Nobel Laureate Kailash Satyarthi’s ‘Bachpan Bachao Andolan’ to rescue 129 girls trafficked from the tea estates in Assam. The Foundation has a very practical approach. For instance, it has provided interest-free loans to 500 erstwhile devadasis in Karnataka to start businesses so that their daughters and granddaughters can stay in school and not be forced to enter the sex trade.

Apart for iLive2Lead, you have also co-founded Global Adjustments. How do you view the 20-year journey? Working with Ranjini Manian to co-found Global Adjustments has been a profound experience. We both feel humbled to have been able to play a role in the development of Chennai as a major international business hub and to bring our two cultures closer together. Global Adjustments has contributed not only to the economic development of Chennai but also created a warm, welcoming community and services for expatriates coming to India. It has grown to be the premier relocation company in India, helping many to learn to love the Indian culture and adjust to living here. We also have played a major role in preparing Indian executives for business with Western companies. It has been an honour and privilege to be part of this growing, thriving company. We celebrate our 20th anniversary this coming March, and in conjunction with that milestone, we are coming out with a book on easing business passage between India and America, fittingly titled Make (It) In India: Global CEOs, Indo-US Insights. The book is a compilation of insights and business advice from several of the major corporate CEOs working in India, both Indian and American, and is a must-read for Americans and Indians thinking of, or already, doing business with each other.

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January 2015

culturama

Ten for the Road by Susan Philip

Jharkhand Explore the 29 states of this fascinating subcontinent. This segment will set out a collection of interesting, bite-size facts from each state – this month, we look at Jharkhand 1.

How the Land Lies: The land of jungles, this eastern Indian state is a land-locked area once almost totally clothed in dense forest. The heavily industrialised cities of Jamshedpur, home of India’s first private iron and steel plant, and Bokharo, comprise the other side of its face now. Ranchi is the capital.

Political Pressures: This is a relatively ‘young’ state – just about 14 years

Past Glories: The language of the tribals of the region is said to bear

old. Originally part of the Bihar, it was largely undeveloped. It is well on the road to progress now, with better transport connectivity and educational facilities. close similarity to the language used by the people of the ancient Harappan civilization. Obviously, the area is of great interest to archeologists, anthropologists and historians.

4. Ethnic Fingerprint: The Santhals and Oraons are among the largest tribes

in this state. The Santhals are the largest Austro-Asiatic group in India. Each tribe has distinct practices – the dhumkuria or youth dormitories of the Oraons, for instance, are a sort of finishing school for boys. However, many of these practices are dying out.

Culture Quotient: Many tribal villages have an akhra, a meeting groundcum-dance floor, where people gather without caste, gender or economic barriers, at times of celebration and sorrow, to express their emotions through music and movement.

Personality Plus: On October 3, 1978, a team of doctors led by one Dr.

Sights to See: The Nakshatra Van in Ranchi is unique. The park is laid out

Tasty Treats: The rugda, a type of mushroom, start springing up in the

Crafted with Care: Wood and bamboo are the preferred raw materials used by the predominantly tribal population of Jharkhand to produce handicrafts. Demand for the state’s bamboo baskets, carved wooden spoons, decorative door panels, paitkar or scroll paintings and distinctive, puppet-like toys painted in canary yellow is picking up.

Subhas Mukherjee made an astonishing announcement – the birth of Durga, a test-tube baby in India! It came just 67 days after the world’s first such birth was made public in the United Kingdom. The techniques used by Dr. Mukherjee, who was born in what is now Jharkhand, were different from those used by the UK doctors, and his method is widely used even today.

in symbolic representation of the divisions of the sky as per astrology. Each division is dominated by a celestial body and associated with a zodiac sign. Each constellation has a representative tree of medicinal, economic or aesthetic value in Hindu tradition. shelter of the sal trees of Jharkhand’s jungles when the monsoon sets in, and are harvested by tribal women. Considered a delicacy, they command premium prices. However, they are becoming rare, and are available only during the first few days of the rainy season.

10. Worshipfully Yours: Traditional tribal lifestyles are closely linked

with nature. Trees and plants, rain and rivers are the sustainers of life. Sacred groves, where spirits are believed to manifest, and natural wealth is revered, are common features of the Jharkhand landscape. The custom helps to preserve the rich biodiversity of the forests.

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January 2015

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Photo: www.theflavornook.com

In Your Kitchen by Shefali Ganesh

Cream of the Crop The harvest festivals of India celebrate the bounty of a good crop by using jaggery (a form of unrefined sugar) to bring out the best of the seasonal produce The cold nip in the air, the mild warmth of the gentle January sun and bountiful harvest the season brings in are more than reason enough for festive cheer to envelope the country. In this traditionally agrarian country, mid-January is the time when the Sun God’s bounty is realised and a ‘thanksgiving’ in the form of a harvest festival is held. Referred to by different names (see our ‘Festivals of the Month’ on Page 64 for more details), the celebrations are, however, marked by one commonality – the preparation of dishes that bring out the best of the seasonal produce. We have included here some popular Indian recipes from across the subcontinent.

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Nolen Gurer Payesh

Ellu Bella

West Bengal

Karnataka

Photo: www.mellownspicy.com

Jaggery, milk and rice come together in a rich, mouthwatering dish.

Ingredients

January 2015

Sweet balls made with sesame (a source of protein) and jaggery (a source of iron), is one of the harvest specialities of Karnataka.

Ingredients:

Milk: 3 cups

Sesame: 1½ cups

Short-grained rice: 3 tbsp

Jaggery: 1½ cups

Sugar: 6 tbsp

Ghee: 6 tbsp

Melted date palm jaggery: 6 tbsp

Powdered cardamom: 1 tbsp

Cashews and raisins: 1 tbsp each, soaked in water

Water: ¾ cup

Method: Wash the rice and soak in water for half an hour. Place the milk on medium heat and bring it to a boil – stir the milk continuously while heating it so that it does not stick to the vessel or burn. Allow the milk to bubble for about 5 minutes, then add the soaked rice (minus the water) to the boiling milk and let the mixture cook. Continue to stir the mixture while it is being cooked. As the rice is being cooked, keep a close watch to ensure that the grains become soft, but are not overcooked. By the time the rice is cooked, the milk should have become thick and reduced in quantity. Turn off the heat, and add the sugar, date palm jaggery and nuts and raisins (minus the water it was soaked in). Boil this mixture for 5 minutes and then take it off the heat. Serve at room temperature. Garnish with chopped nuts and a sprinkling of crushed palm jaggery.

Method: Roast sesame seeds till they brown and start popping. Set aside the roasted seeds to cool. Dissolve the jaggery in 3/4 cup of water and cook on low heat till it melts. Pour the liquid through a strainer to remove any sediments. Put this syrup on heat and keep stirring till it becomes thick and slightly sticky. Add powdered cardamom, ghee and roasted sesame to the jaggery syrup and mix well. Pour the hot mixture on a greased plate. When the mixture has cooled down, divide into segments and roll the parts into balls. This sweet dish can be stored in airtight containers for up to a month.

Sakkarai Pongal

Ingredients:

Tamil Nadu

Raw rice: 1 cup

Among the sweet and savoury versions of Pongal, we have given here the (slightly) more popular sweet version, which is made with jaggery.

Green gram lentils: 3 tbsp

Milk: 1 cup Powdered jaggery: 1 cup Cashews and raisins: 2 tbsp each, roasted in ghee Cardamom and cloves: 2 each Nutmeg powder: a pinch

Method: Dry roast the green gram lentils till it turns golden. Mix the milk with 2½ cups of water and cook the roasted lentils and rice in this mixture. Set aside the cooked mixture. Dissolve the jaggery in 3/4 cup of water and cook the mixture on low heat till the jaggery melts completely. Pour the liquid through a strainer to remove any sediments. Put this syrup on heat and keep stirring till it becomes thick and slightly sticky. Add the cooked rice and lentils to the jaggery syrup and stir well. Add powdered cardamom, cloves, nutmeg powder, roasted cashews and raisins to the mixture and mix well. Serve it hot. Photo: Nitya Prakash

January 2015

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Feature by Suzanne McNeill

Pa i nt e d

P R AY E R S Kolam and rangoli â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the colourful patterns made with white and coloured flours are a regular feature of Indian homes. However, their significance is not merely as an aesthetic tool but as a symbol of a deeper spiritual philosophy

culturama

January 2015

Photo: Thomas Valero, France Finely-ground rice flour is a common medium used for drawing kolam and rangoli - the terracotta floor acts as a beautiful background. The patterns are erased daily, as a reminder of the transience of all life

In southern India, graceful white kolams, patterned like openwork lace, adorn the entrances to homes and household shrines, whilst, across the North, brightly coloured powders fill the outlines of rangoli designs in courtyards and sacred places. Called India’s ‘painted prayers’, these forms of decorative floor art use simple materials to create exquisite but temporary adornment. They are an essential part of any celebration in India, when particularly elaborate designs are used to mark special occasions and festivals. The creation of kolam and rangoli also form part of the daily ritual of a household, a tradition that is both simple and layered with meaning. Compared with other forms of folk art in India, this is not an ageless custom – it dates back about 500 years – but the patterns and symbols used in creating kolam and rangoli are ancient, and are laden with specific meaning and spiritual undertones.

Kolams are drawn using pinches of finely ground powder held between the thumb and forefinger, released in a steady and continuous flow. As the lines swirl and intersect, small focused patterns emerge, which are repeated and elaborated over an expanding space, building to a large circle or a hexagon. Rice flour is most commonly used to create the kolam – its white colour symbolises peace and purity. The pattern is sometimes filled with yellow turmeric powder, long associated with purification rituals, and with red vermillion powder, protective and auspicious. A red line may be used to ‘bind’ the kolam, which is to define the sacred space within it. The ground before the entrance of a home is first swept to prepare it for the kolam. In rural areas, a ‘canvas’ is prepared by coating the ground with a mixture of water and cow dung; in cities, the kolam is created directly on the cement or tiled entrance path. Line kolam are drawn freehand, but

January 2015

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The annual Mylapore Festival in Chennai is a time when nimble fingers and creative minds compete to create a winning design in the much-awaited kolam competition Photo: Chris Scales, USA

culturama

January 2015

By Different Names

Whilst the materials used, and the patterns created from them, may differ across India, the designs are always symmetrical in nature, pleasingly balanced and in proportion.Their purpose is not simply ornamental, for kolam and rangoli represent order, and seek to attract the divine

Kolam and rangoli are known by different names in different parts of India – hase in Karnataka, muggulu in Andhra Pradesh and chowkpurana in Uttar Pradesh. Styles of floor art also differ. Rajasthan’s open-air floor paintings, called mandana, are created in homes and village courtyards. They are drawn free-hand using a Photo: Sophie Fontant, France

more common is the pulli kolam, which is based on a grid of dots arranged symmetrically in a specific sequence to provide a framework for the design. The dots, or pulli, serve as aids to facilitate the learning of the pattern, as well as its reproduction. The women of the household learn the art of drawing kolam patterns from childhood through observation and practice, and can acquire an astonishingly large repertoire of designs, which they can draw readily from memory. The patterns are drawn with remarkable ease. The rice flour runs smoothly between the thumb and forefingers, creating a continuous line that twists and turns around the grid, sometimes joining the dots, or twisting around them in harmonious loops and curves. In contrast, the rangoli designs of northern India are densely filled with lavish applications of coloured rice or powder, and sometimes petals. Rangoli range from simple geometric patterns, often based on flower and petal shapes, through to elaborate designs crafted by several people. Lotus flowers and leaves, mangoes, fish, peacocks and foliage are favoured symbols that adorn rangoli. The outer pattern is often drawn free hand in a white flour paste before being filled with the coloured powders, and as a finishing touch, oil lamps or diyas may be placed inside the rangoli. In Kerala, the petals of flowers such as orange marigolds, white jasmine and pink asters are shredded and used in place of powders to create the distinct pookkalam motifs. Whilst the materials used, and the patterns created from them, may differ across India, the designs are always symmetrical in nature, pleasingly balanced and in proportion. Their purpose is not simply ornamental, for kolam and rangoli represent order, and seek to attract the divine. Consequently, they are drawn to inaugurate the beginning of an activity, to mark an auspicious occasion, and to adorn a place of worship. They are an essential part of festive celebrations. Rangoli are integral to the colourful decoration of Diwali (the word is said to derive from Sanskrit ‘rang’ and ‘aavalli’ meaning a row of colours) and, when drawn during Diwali, they usually follow a certain theme. The central design or motif is symbolic and represents a deity or the main concept of the theme, such as the unity of man and nature represented by natural elements. Or they may be celestial in theme, and include the sun, moon, and the zodiac signs. Their geometric shape denotes the infinity of time, and the lotus border represents the goddess Lakshmi. The ultimate purpose is to attract and welcome the deity. Rangoli are displayed as a welcoming sign for the goddess Lakshmi, thus inviting wealth, prosperity and happiness into a home. Pookkalam are made on the occasion of Onam, the harvest festival of the state of Kerala.

small piece of cotton rolled into a ball and soaked in a liquid paste made from red and white powders mixed with water. The alpana floor art of Bengal also depicts flowing motifs and more pictorial images using a smooth and runny liquid paste made from rice flour and water. The liquid is gently squeezed with an even pressure from a cotton swab to draw the design. Typically, alpana will include tiny stylised footprints inviting Lakshmi to cross the threshold. A figurative form of floor art is to be found in the kalam tradition of Kerala. Here, as part of their ceremonial worship, ritual painters create anthropomorphic representations of the gods on the ground with natural vegetable powders. The five colours used – white, yellow, black, green and red – create vivid representations that will remind viewers of the characters in a Kathakali or Yakshagana performance.

January 2015

culturama

Photo: Armando Bruck

On a domestic level, the kolam is a mark of good housekeeping and order, and shows dedication to the family. The ritual also represents an act of devotion They are created to greet the legendary King Mahabali, whose soul visits the homes of devotees during the ten-day festival, bestowing good fortune and contentment. Kolam are equally celebratory in nature, marking South Indian festivals such as the holy month of Margazhi, and the harvest festival, Pongal. However, their creation also forms a daily ritual across millions of households in the small towns and villages of southern India. Drawn at the threshold of a home, where they will be erased during the course of the day by passers-by, visitors and household members, they will be re-created anew the following morning. The creation of the kolam every morning is layered with meaning. On a domestic level, the kolam is a mark of good housekeeping and order, and shows dedication to the family. The spaces where they are drawn are wiped clean and purified by the adornment of the kolam. The ritual also represents an act of devotion. Kolam are auspicious, a kind of painted prayer that turns ordinary space into sacred space. Most importantly, they are a welcome to Lakshmi, goddess of wealth and prosperity, and a rejection of her antithesis, Jyestha, who is associated with inauspicious places, thus protecting the householdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s morality. By drawing attention to itself, the kolam

Photo: Sophie Fontant, France

DRAW YOUR OWN KOLAM Step 1 Draw 9 dots in a pattern of 3 rows and 3 columns â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the shape should be that of a cube.

Step 2 Draw a circle around the dot in the centre. Draw similar circles around the dots in the four outer corners

Step 3

Step 4

Beginning at any one point, draw a curve that runs around the dots in the middle of the outer lines. Do not draw the curve over the circles that have already been drawn.

Fill in the gaps inside the curves and circles with different coloured powders. Be careful to keep the colours within the lines.

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January 2015

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PRACTICAL INFORMATION • Here’s a short video showing how different pulli kolam are drawn: http://tinyurl.com/pullikolam • This one explains the significance of the nalvaravu kolam: http:// tinyurl.com/nalvaravuNovices can buy these small, inexpensive moulds to draw uniform patterns

kolam Photo: Thomas Brouns

absorbs the ill effects of the evil eye; more practically, it provides food for insects and birds – the thousand souls that Hindu households are charged to feed – and keeps the ants outside! Commentators on this form of folk art have noted the simple mathematical properties of the patterns, particularly the grids on which they are formed. The kolam, for example, is produced in units of sub-patterns that can fill any given size of space. These symbols build into an infinite number of patterns, a visual language that is read by the viewer. These include, at their most abstract, the mandala, the sacred circle that represents the cosmos; mystic geometrical configurations called yantras that are the visual equivalent of the sacred prayers or mantras; and the complex symbolic cosmology of signs that evolved from Tantra, handwritten doctrines of faith that were laid down to achieve control over natural forces and the self. The designs vary depending on what is being celebrated. The nalvaravu, or ‘welcome’ kolam, is drawn on the threshold and used to invite wedding guests into the home. It will include symbols of lotus petals, deemed sacred, perhaps the conch shell, which represents the life force of water, and the lamp, symbolising the removal of darkness and overcoming ignorance. Thottil or ‘cradle’ kolam are created for the naming ceremony of a newborn child. Circular rangoli are associated with the abode of the gods, and are created to draw Lakshmi’s abundance to the home, whilst ‘snake’ kolam are used to protect the house from evil spirits, and to purify the household members in mind and thought. Traditionally, pookkalam were formed day by day in a series of 10 rings – each representing a deity from the Hindu pantheon. There is, across India, a rich heritage of decorative art that by its nature – the material used to create it, the place it is created and the purpose for which it is created – temporary. For example, we see this every year at Ganesh Chaturthi where terracotta models of Ganesha are returned to the sea. Likewise, kolam and rangoli are transitory works of art, gradually disappearing as people walk over the designs. Visitors to India may be puzzled by this, by the ‘vandalism’ of something so lovely, and made with such care. However, the fleeting nature of these works speaks directly to a philosophy that underlies Indian culture – the Buddhist notion of impermanence. Existence is transient, in a permanent state of fluctuation, as represented by the cycle of birth and rebirth. This applies to all beings and to their environs, and attachment to worldly phenomena can lead only to suffering. Beautiful but ephemeral, the kolam and the rangoli are created, and then re-created, in recognition of the mutability of all things.

• This lovely family video shows the time-lapse creation of a stunning rangoli design: http:// tinyurl.com/time-lapserangoli, and here is the same for a pookkalam: http://tinyurl.com/timelapse-pookalam • Rangoli competitions take place around the time of Diwali: http:// tinyurl.com/rangolicomp, whilst Chennai’s annual Mylapore Kolam Competition is open to up to 100 people each evening, with prizes given to the 15 best designs on each day: http://tinyurl.com/kolamcomp • Chantal Jumel is a freelance researcher and writer, who specialises in India’s visual arts. Her website about kolam, kalam and the decorative floor art of India contains many stunning photographs and videos: http://tinyurl. com/chantal-jumel

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January 2015

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Look Who’s In Town Mumbai

The Good Samaritan American Debra Feinberg gives us tips on doing the maximum good while in Maximum City Mumbai Debra Feinberg’s India story is best told in her own words. A JDC Entwine Fellow working with the Gabriel Project in Mumbai (http://gabrielprojectmumbai.org), Debra came to India to fulfill her passions – teaching and travel. She describes herself as a “born storyteller” and her dream classroom is a place “where kids from the toughest of upbringings could believe that anything is possible”. India was a dream come true for her: “The stars aligned when an opportunity presented to come to India and join The Gabriel Project Mumbai, a grassroots initiative that tackles malnutrition, illiteracy and child labour in the slums by providing students who attend class with the meals they would otherwise have to earn by working. I jumped at the opportunity!”

The Mumbai Experience I landed in Mumbai with a burst of Diwali fireworks exploding in the night sky – an incredible and beautiful welcome to my new home for the next few months. At first, Mumbai simply felt like chaos, a mass of humanity trying to pull me into its hot, sweaty grasp. What I’ve learned is that you can’t fight the flow of Mumbai. It is like a wave – you just have to go with it or else it will crush you. With that in mind, I’ve learned to love and appreciate the madness of this city. There’s something special about the pandemonium of Mumbai, which makes it the perfect place for innovative social entrepreneurship. While strict rules and bureaucracy within

school systems limit the creativity of US educators, the lack of infrastructure within the slums of Mumbai demand ingenuity, and for an out-of-the-box thinker, this is a city that inspires change.

Be the change • For expats seeking to volunteer or contribute to Indian society, do so responsibly. Think of the skills you have to offer and align your talents with an organisation that will benefit from them. • Google is your best friend when researching opportunities, but you should also leverage connections from professionals in the private sector of your area of expertise; if an organisation is doing good work and has a successful track record of making an impact, word gets around. • Any organisation whose mission aligns with the skills you have to offer will be eager to welcome your expertise. At the same time, do not come with a savior-complex, just have the willingness to share your skills and learn from others. If your mindset is right, and your intentions are pure, you’ll gain more from the experience than you can imagine.

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January 2015

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Look Who’s In Town Chennai

From House to Home British-Australian Jennifer Mullen braves the dust and heat of the Chennai streets to get the best bargains while setting up her home Jennifer Mullen is at her dramatic best when she is in the markets of Chennai – she knows it will get her the best bargains. “I find that Tamil people tend to chuckle when you speak their language. I usually ask for the price, then throw my hands dramatically in the air and exclaim, ‘Romba jaasti!’ (‘far too much!’). The flip side is that my children now try to shout this in every shop – which doesn’t go down too well in our local department store!” Jen is elated at the “painless transition for her children, who have new Indian friends”. She herself has taken up intense Tamil lessons with the final goal in mind: “To go into a South Indian curry house when we move to London and watch the look on the staff’s faces when I order my mutton biryani in perfect, respectful Tamil!”

The Chennai difference Shopping for your home in Sydney is largely centred around vast, air-conditioned shopping malls. The cost of living has risen dramatically in Australia over the past few years, so people are very focused on keeping living expenses down. India, of course, has malls, but you need to shop around a lot more.

Best Buys Online retailers such as Pepperfry have good quality furniture, and they will deliver and assemble the furniture in your home. I also looked spontaneously at small furniture shops on the ECR and OMR and bought some fairly inexpensive items, such as a coffee table. My personal favourite retailer for accessories is The Elephant

Company (www.thelephantcompany.com), from whom I bought some slightly kitsch, but very cool cushion covers, with iconic designs – like an auto!

Tips to settle in • Be patient! Sometimes your furniture will have to come from Mumbai, so expect to wait a while – even with the large retailers. • Be a little adventurous – places such as Tambaram, a little out of town, seem to have a lot of large furniture shops. Parry’s Corner is the commercial pulse of Chennai. • Facebook has expat pages where people sell good quality stuff when they relocate.

When in Australia If you are shipping furniture to Australia, do check which wooden items will be allowed in, as Australia has extremely strict quarantine laws. Shops such as Kmart and larger stores like Ikea sell most of the home equipment you will need, for very low prices. Also check out sites (such as www.gumtree.com.au) to pick up secondhand goods at good bargains. If you are moving with a family of young children, join Facebook sites where parents will be selling using goods. The final piece of advice is to get a good gas barbecue – Australians love to have people over.

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January 2015

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At Global Adjustments by Team Culturama

THANK YOU!

As we welcome a new year, it is time to look back at the months gone by – and express our gratitude for all that has gone well. Topping the list is our 17th Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition, which was held on November 20, 2014, at the Hyatt Regency Chennai. The immense success of the event was due in large part to your generous sponsors, who came forward to help put our plans in action. Hyatt Regency Chennai, our Hospitality Partner, won the hearts of guests and with their elaborate spread for brunch and warm smiles – their staff truly defined the meaning of ‘hospitality’. Equally popular was Ibaco, who gave away ice-cream bars and tubs to visitors and participants – especially the children, who milled about their stall the whole time! And what is brunch without a dose of good coffee? Lavazza added flavour to the event with their special flavoured coffees – and their much-beloved coffee machines were given away as prizes to some lucky participants. The European International School and Canapo: Illuminating Tiny Minds took on the responsibility of handling the children who had come for the event – while the adults were enjoying themselves

at the awards ceremony, the children were entertained by the staff from both schools, who kept them occupied with games and activities. Print partner Fuji Film enriched the display with their beautiful reproduction of the photographs that were submitted to the competition. The amazing prints would prove to be a wonderful memory for the years to come as well, and participants regarded the photographs as one of the best takeaways from the event. Jaypore and Toran added to the aesthetic beauty of the event. Jaypore, a true cultural representative, and one of the event sponsors, also graciously extended a substantial discount to the participants. Toran’s display of eclectic furniture was much appreciated by guests, who made it their go-to store for decor ideas. Adding a touch of glamour to the event was Limelite , our Makeup partner. They helped make the young ones look even prettier, especially those who performed on stage to peppy Bollywood numbers.

EUROPEAN INT ERNA TI ONAL SCH O O L

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Cultural Ambassador of India Awards Culturama takes pride in paying a special tribute to its

January 2015

kerala backwater bliss

longstanding supporters with a Loyalist and Cultural Ambassador Award. This was in appreciation of the support lent to the magazine over the years.

Kiran Rao Amethyst Before returning to India, Kiran Rao worked for 12 years in the arts and ran a retail business in London promoting Asian Arts. Amethyst, the first of its kind in Chennai, is a café-cum-boutique store that offers a green getaway in the hub of the city. She also co-founded Chamiers.

Mathangi Srinivasamurti Chamiers Mathangi, partner of lifestyle boutique Chamiers, started her career in advertising. In 2000, she entered the retail sector with her maiden initiative, Crafts & Weaves – which, in 2004, led to high-end boutique Chamiers.

Ashish Gupta Milesworth Milesworth’s Managing Director, Ashish Gupta, is co-founder and director of the Barefoot Group – a 35-crore hospitality and travel venture based in the Andaman Islands. He is also Director of Footprint Bed and Breakfast in Chennai. Milesworth

milesworth holidays india • srilanka • maldives • and beyond

Travel is a 20-year old tailor-made leisure travel company specialising in learning and immersive journeys in India and Greater Asia.

Cream Centre A prominent name in the food scene for over 50 years, vegetarian restaurant Cream Centre has been a longstanding supporter of Culturama and its efforts to promote India on a global stage.

visit: www.milesworth.com Milesworth Travels & Tours Pvt. Ltd., 39 R M Towers, 108 Chamiers Road, Chennai. Tel: +91-44-24320522 / 24359554 Fax: +91-44-24342668 E-mail: holidays@milesworth.com

January 2015

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January Calendar of events

Presenting the best of India’s events in different categories across Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, Chennai and nearby suburbs

Art & Exhibitions

Photography Exhibition Chennai

Art Show Delhi

Apparao Galleries presents a photography exhibition featuring Deidi Von Schaewen and George K., titled ‘Urban Story’. Deidi, an architectural photographer, explores the hidden agenda of politics through a series of scaffoldings. George K. is a painterphotographer whose works talk about the political aspect of social outcasts as he captures an abandoned furniture factory.

The National Gallery of Modern Art will host ‘Asamayavalli – Untimely Calendar’, a solo art show. The show takes the form of an extended conversation around the concepts of time and untimely. There will be more than 50 works presented across a range of different forms of media – video, installations, mixed media assemblages, photography and sculpture.

Date: December 8 to January 25 Venue: No.7, Wallace Gardens, 3rd Street, Nungambakkam

Date: December 18 to February 8 Venue: Jaipur House, National Gallery of Modern Art, Delhi Time: 1000h to 1700h

Art Exhibition Mumbai The Loft art gallery presents ‘Poetics of Space’, a solo exhibition by artist Sachin Tekade. The exhibition comprises a series of art works that deal the emotional quotient of space. The show borrows its title from a book with the same name written by philosopher Gaston Bachelard. Date: December 2 to January 30 Venue: The Loft, New Mahalakshi Silk Mills, Lower Parel, Mumbai Time: 1800h

culturama

January 2015

Events

International Photography Contest Mumbai Alliance Francaise – Mumbai launches the fifth edition of the international photography contest titled ‘Climat Etat d’urgence’ (‘Climate, State of Emergency’) under the patronage of Yann ArthusBertrand. The contest invites pictures that depict the dynamic climate and man’s activities that create these changes. The contest is open to amateur and semiprofessional photographers above 18 years of age. Visit www.fondation-alliancefr.org for details. Date: December 16 to February 14 Venue: Alliance Francaise Auditorium, Churchgate, Mumbai.

Handloom and Craft Sale Chennai Thirteen top-ranked patachitra artists from the state of Odisha will exhibit their crafts at Vinnyasa Art Gallery. In the crafts and handloom marketing scenario, where middlemen skim the cream of profits, this exhibition provides a forum of encouragement for artists. All the artists are award winners and their works are not just mythological but also temporal. Call +91 44 24982515 for more details. Date: January 2 to 12 Venue: Vinnyasa Art Gallery, Mylapore, Chennai

Photo Exhibition Bengaluru The three-day International Photo Exhibition on UNESCO World Heritage Sites will be held at Alliance Francaise, Bengaluru. The exhibition will showcase an array of more than 130 images on World Heritage Sites of 20 countries. Date: January 9 to 11 Venue: Alliance Francaise Atrium, Bengaluru Time: 1800h

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Saarang 2015 Chennai

Street Art Festival Delhi

The much-attended annual social and cultural event of IIT Madras is back. The event brings together classical dance, contemporary and classical music, headlining Electronic Dance and Music (EDM) acts and more. Tickets to the event are available on www. bookmyshow.com

The street art festival 2015 edition will have scores of graffiti artists from across the world coming together at the capital city. They will change the bleak landscape of Delhi into a walk through art gallery. The festival is in its second edition and was curated last year by Delhi based typographer Hanif Kureshi. Mumbai already has had its share of transformation in the month of November. Visit http://www.st-artmumbai.org/ for more details of the festival.

Date: January 7 to 11 Venue: Open Air Theatre, IIT Madras, Adyar, Chennai

The Hindu Lit for Life Festival Chennai The Hindu Lit for Life 2015 edition is spread across three days and is a celebration of writing and writers. The highlight of the fest will be the announcement of The Hindu Prize on January 17, chosen from a shortlist handful. Some of the shortlisted novels will also be dramatised by college students. Catch noteworthy historic-book writers like Rajmohan Gandhi, Charles Allen and more; leading publishers will also speak at the festival. There will be panel discussions, talks, live demos and workshops. Date: January 16 to 18 Venue: Across Chennai. Visit www.thehindulfl. com or www.thehindu.com/features/lit-for-life/ for more details.

Date: January 20 to February 20 Venue: Across Delhi

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January 2015

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Seeing India by Peter Dixon

Motorcycle Diaries For a motorcycle enthusiast, the Holy Grail is to get onboard a Royal Enfield and set off on a classic India adventure – one such enthusiast began his adventures with a ride from Chennai to Mangalore Ever since I bought my first motorbike at the age of 16 and used to pull my 14-year-old brother around our backyard in Sydney, using a rope and rollerskates (a bit like water skiing, but with more grazes to the knees), I have always dreamt of seeing foreign lands on a motorbike. The Holy Grail for motorcyclists is, of course, to get onboard a Royal Enfield, armed with a map and a backpack, and set off on a classic India adventure. Due to practical matters, such as a mortgage and young children, this action adventure was put on a backburner – until I was sent on a work trip to Chennai, and was able to turn the dreams into a reality, using just four days to travel westwards from Chennai to Mangalore and back. I have to admit that the trip came about in a slightly impromptu manner. Originally, I was planning a relaxing hop down to Pondicherry, but when one of my Indian colleagues suggested joining him on a trip back to his hometown on the west coast, I could not resist. Not knowing much about Indian roads, I wasn’t fazed by the idea of riding 500 km a day, allowing for sightseeing detours, as I was used to large distances in Australia. I think it is important to explain why anyone would choose to risk life and limb on a motorbike in the first place. One answer is simply the nostalgia surrounding the Royal Enfield, whose motto is ‘Made like a gun, goes like a bullet’. This represents the company’s background in weapons and manufacturing. Granted, there are faster, lighter and more fuel-efficient bikes on the road today, but I liken riding a Royal Enfield to being on a hugely underpowered tractor. They are surprisingly stable on bad surfaces

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Peter Dixon with his family - all onboard the beloved Enfield Photo: All photos by the author

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A meeting with an elephant en route; taking the necessary precautions

and it is almost like you cannot be in a rush, which lends itself perfectly to a long, cross-country journey. I’ve heard some riders even say the mere ‘blaat-blaat-blaat’ sound of the engine will turn the head of Royal Enfield enthusiasts, even in heavy Indian traffic. I also have a huge admiration for the old, classic technology that goes into these bikes, and have huge respect for similar pieces of engineering from a bygone era, which still Indians use today, such as the machines to extract the juice from sugar cane, grind coffee or the mini blast furnaces to cook corn on beaches. The first part of the trip, from Chennai to Bengaluru at night, did feel a bit dangerous, even reckless, given that I had chosen to ignore the sensible advice about avoiding riding in the dark. The key lesson I learnt was that Indian highways can be treacherous after dark – with trucks driving at full speed with no headlights, on the wrong side of the road, and often overturning. Parts of the motorway were poorly lit, so hitting an unseen pothole at speed or suddenly coming face to face with a cow were also highly likely. To anyone planning a bike trip, I would strongly advise to not ride at night, unless it is absolutely essential. Having finally reached Bengaluru, unscathed, at 3 a.m., after seven hours in the saddle, I was touched by Indian

hospitality. My colleague and I stayed with a local friend of his, who not only gave up his bed to me but would not take any sort of payment for food and board. The next day was spent riding westwards from Bengaluru, through the state of Karnataka. Here, the roads suddenly seem to open up into great rolling highways, which later become meandering A-roads, as you cross the Western Ghats. I definitely recommend seeing this impressive mountain range, as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, because of its great biodiversity. It is home to an estimated 7,400 species of flowering plants, 508 species of birds and 139 species of mammals, including tigers. We saw coffee and tea plantations, and everywhere there were trees dotted with pepper vines. I think riding a Royal Enfield is the perfect way to see this part of India. Thanks to the heavy, slow-running engine, you power steadily through the hills and bends,

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Back home after soaking in nature's wonders

almost leisurely. If you are inside a car or a bus, you are less connected to the environment around you. Even stopping for a stretch every hour means you get to notice things, which you would otherwise miss out on – such as small paths down to tremendous, thundering waterfalls. One memorable part of the trip was taking a detour up Mullayanagiri Mountain, which is the highest in Karnataka. The fog had set in and some of the roads had very steep dropoffs. We came across one family, precariously close to the edge of a road, who were struggling to do a hill start in a manual car. Every attempt would have the family lurch forward half a metre, then the car would slide back in the mud, closer to the edge. It was quite challenging trying to explain how clutches and biting points work using sign language. The driver was sweating profusely with fear, but we eventually managed to get the car back on the road safely. Another thing that really struck me about India is how quickly the scenery can transform from a rural, serene wilderness, to the intense activity, noise and colour of a village street. Suddenly, there were people everywhere – shopping, gossiping or rushing around transporting goods. The locals do not seem to hide away in their houses like they do in the West.

I found the Chikamagalur people to be very curious and slightly amused to see me, the Westerner, pull up on a bike and then clumsily attempt to eat some saaru with my hand. I also recall eating more than my fair share of Mangalore buns, which were absolutely delicious. Another piece of advice I would give motorcyclists touring southern India is to look out for impromptu passengers. A couple of times at toll booths, people would just try to jump on the back of the bike to hitch a free ride. Unfortunately, our coast-to-coast dream was unexpectedly curtailed because of adverse weather caused by a cyclone on the east coast of India. The main road to the coast was closed after a landslide near Maladi, so we had to turn round and begin our journey back to Chennai. This definitely wasn’t a disappointment – being a mere 50 km short of Mangaluru, I felt I had seen and achieved so much in that short amount of time. Six months later, when I was offered an expat position in my company’s Chennai office, the decision for our family to move was very simple. The experience of seeing India by Royal Enfield had given me a genuine emotional connection with the country and I hope we can see some more of the open road – albeit not travelling at night!

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IN T HIS MAGAZINE

January 2015

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Seeing India by Preeti Verma Lal

Hidden Treasures It may not feature in the Golden Triangle of the North â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a route often taken by tourists, but Bhopal in Madhya Pradesh has plenty to offer to the history lover, luxury aficionado and committed gastronome. Come explore this city of lakes

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January 2015

A statue of Raja Bhoj in Bhojtal (Upper Lake) Photo: All photos by the author

“Breakfast? How about poha and jalebi with Suleimani chai? Or bhutte ki kees?” A near-dawn flight into Bhopal had left me zombied and famished. And there I was, trapped in royal food semantics by the Executive Chef at the hotel where I was staying. I could smell the syrupy sweetness of jalebi. Poha (flattened rice), I sure knew is the early morning love of Bhopalis. But bhutte ki kees? Suleimani chai? “That’s typical local breakfast? Grated corn cooked in milk. And salted tea?” I travelled back to the 10th century, when Bhopal was founded by the Parmar ruler, Raja Bhoj. Did Raja Bhoj dig into poha before puntering on his horse? Later, did the Begums muster that porcelain skin with salt in their tea? Did a foodie Nawab order a Chatori Gali (read: Greedy Lane) built overnight in Old Bhopal? The answers had to wait. I was eyeing the feast of a breakfast. Instead, I reined in temptation and paid heed to the chef’s farman. In Bhopal, I did what Bhopalis do. Eat poha/jalebi for breakfast.

Suleimani chai was miles away. In the waif-like lanes of Old Bhopal that is dotted with old mosques and havelis. I had barely stepped out in the sun when I noticed grime on my skin. Forget the cream-and-peaches skin of the Begums, I had acquired travel grunge. In the City of Lakes, I could jump into Bhojtal (Upper Lake) where Raja Bhoj stands like a hulk with a sword and moustache. I was not being batty. A thousand years ago, Raja Bhoj did just that. When a skin disease left the Raja rattled, the vaidyas offered a knotty panacea: build a tank to combine water from 365 tributaries. Bathe in it! Well, he was the Raja. He could do anything – he built the Upper Lake. However, jumping into a 30 sq km lake was a loony December idea. I dropped it. The grime had to go, though. “Get it washed off like the Begums in a hammam,” was a suggestion. I tiptoed to Hammam-e-Kadami, a 300-year-old hammam built by Dost Mohammad Khan. I first heard the bleat of two Godzilla-like

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goats and then the holler of a drenched, paan-chewing woman leaning by the parapet. Aa jao, aa jao (come in, come in), she aggressively gestured. I walked up the brick steps. Orange curtains hung on iron strings and a white board read: Steam & massage: Rs 450. Head massage: Rs 50. Ubtan (herbal pack): Rs 100. Total: Rs 600. I was loath. Near-naked women with turmeric on their bodies were perched on wooden stools. A fat woman with dinner rolls for her midriff lay on the cement floor of the domed steam room. She was being ‘oil beaten’ for better blood circulation. The floor was slippery. The masseuse shrill. The pumice stone coarse. I was chary. I thought I had walked into an oven. The steam here, however, is generated by burning logs in an arched basement and transmitted through copper pipes in the floor and wall of the chamber. Roll over. Sit straight. Neck up. Do not lean on the wall. The woman spewed instructions menacingly. I felt like a sacrificial lamb. Scrubbed, oiled, massaged and oil beaten violently… Did I pay Rs 600 for the torture? The steam was getting under my skin. Literally. In 90 minutes, the grime was gone. The torture worked miracles. I felt squeaky clean. The lightness of being was suddenly stratospheric! Now that I was scrubbed like a Begum, I wanted to see how the Nawabs lived and prayed. My first stop was a 24-door round building called Gulshan-e-Alam (commonly, Golghar). Embroidered blinds were neatly arranged in the verandah and silver tiffin boxes, bowls and spittoons stashed under thick glass panes. On the wall was a 1939 wedding card and a board narrated the story of how Nawab Shah Jahan Begum left real gold and silver threads in the room for the birds to weave their nests. In Taj-ul-Masajid (literally, Crown of Mosques), I removed my shoes to walk into what was once considered the largest mosque in Asia. Next morning, I regressed further into Paleolithic Age. The rock shelters and rock art of Bhimbetka depict the earliest traces of human life on the Indian subcontinent, marking the beginning of the South Asian Stone Age. A roughly hewn track leads to 15 rock shelters that have withstood the vagaries of time and nature. In a few shelters, there is hint of drawings, while in others the art looks so fresh as if there were painted yesterday by a deft artist. On way back, I stopped at the Shiva Temple in Bhojpur, which has one of the largest lingas (18 ft tall and 7.5 ft in circumference) in India. Legend will have us believe that the temple was never completed and the linga was crafted out of one colossal rock. As a woman I felt safe. Perhaps it stems from the fact that Bhopal was the only Indian princely state to be ruled by women for 107 years (1819–1926). Four consecutive female

1. A temple of Lord Shiva in Bhojpur 2. Sheermal – a sweet bread 3. The rock shelters of Bhimbetka

Must-see in Bhopal • Golghar – this museum has photographs, artifacts, documents and embroidered chiks (blinds) chronicling life in old Bhopal. • The National Museum of Mankind, perhaps the only museum in the world strewn with painted rock shelters. • The fish-shaped Machli Ghar (aquarium). • Tajul Masjid, once considered the largest mosque in Asia • Jain Temple (take the ropeway). • Gohar Mahal: Built in 1820, this one is a perfect fusion of Hindu and Mughal architecture. • Chowk (in old Bhopal) is lined with old mosques, havelis and shops.

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Did you know? • Between August 1947 and May 1949, Bhopal was a princely state. On April 30, 1949, Nawab Hamiddulah Khan signed Golghar, a museum that has an enviable collection of artifacts from a bygone era, is one of the must-visit places in Bhopal

rulers, who were all called ‘Nawabs’. The city still resonates with the bravery and munificence of the first female ruler, Nawab Qudsia Begum (also known as Gohar Begum) who had dinner only after she received news that all her subjects had their meals. At 18, she shunned the purdah tradition and wore the crown. That is not the only story that Bhopal puffs about. Old timers talk of poet Allama Mohammad Iqbal, who wrote Sare jahan se accha (one of India’s national songs) and visited Bhopal four times, the first for treatment of his vocal chords. It was in Sheesh Mahal that Iqbal penned Momin and talks of the city in perfect pentameters: Ye sehar jo kabhi farda hai kabhi hai amroz, Nahin maloom ke hoti hai kahan se paida, Woh sehar jis se larazta hai shabistan-e-wujood, Hoti hai banda-e-momin ki azan se paida (The morning that shifts so soon tomorrow new, Whence it comes is only known to few, The dark abode of being is shook by morn, Which by worshipers call to prayer is born). Bhopal has an Iqbal Maidan and an Iqbal Library. A large portion of the Sheesh Mahal has been demolished but memories of the poet still throb in the debris. A poet. A begum. A masseuse. A caveman. A God. I spun through the capital city

finding them all. As the car burnt tar past modern malls and ancient palaces, I was told stories about a clean, safe Bhopal. My mind, however, was in a time warp, my knees wobbly, my skin tanned and my hunger mimicking that of a Paleolithic Caveman. I wanted to return to a ritzy 21st century and stepped into Bay Leaf, the city’s first and only fine dining restaurant. One look at the menu and I knew I could span time zones. The old world Begum meets modern uber-chic here. The food is progressive Indian. A bay leaf is painted on a canvas, bespoke pickles peep from the wooden shelf and on the table lie gold-enamelled platters. This fare could tempt the Nawabs and Begums to hurry out of their graves. I yearned for the sheermal, a slightly sweet bread leavened with yeast. When warm sheermals were served, I held the round saffron-tinged bread in hand. That moment, a round burnished saffron sun dipped in Bhopal’s Bhojtal. In Bay Leaf, the sun and the sheermal shared the saffron. And partook in their glee.

the agreement to merge with the Union of India. Bhopal state was taken over by the Union of India on June 1, 1949. • During the British Raj, railway tickets and signboards spelt the city’s name as ‘Bhoopal’ in English.

Best in town: • Breakfast: Courtyard by Marriott’s Corner Bar has the city’s largest breakfast spread with several cuisines and live counters. • Fine dining: Bay Leaf, the city’s only fine dining restaurant. • Ice cream: Top n Town – all of Bhopal swears by this local ice cream brand. • Shopping: Bhopal Haat is the place to pick handicrafts. • Evening outing: A boat ride on the Upper Lake (Bada Talab).

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Photo: Helle Stromholt, Denmark

The Lighter Side by Marina Marangos

Where’s

y t r a P e Th

Tonight? The arrival of the cold weather has everyone in Delhi erupting in a frisson of entertaining fever – it is party time in the capital. Delhiites love the onset of the cooler winter months and view this time as the best time to dust off their wonderful sequin-encrusted saris and throw lavish and extravagant parties for all their friends. There is another phenomenon that accompanies this time of year and that is seasonal amnesia – Delhiites suddenly come out of the woodwork and you see them in the parks and the malls enjoying the cooler weather, completely forgetting what trying, mosquito-infested months just passed or that searing heat from before the monsoon broke. Believe me,

Ditch the fashion and the accessories. Go prepared – a polar outfit is the best for a night out at a Delhi Party

it is as if they live in two different worlds and this is the proverbial coming out of the cocoon time for Delhiites – which, we are told, not by one or two, but a large number of friends and acquaintances you meet, has the best climate in the whole of the subcontinent. So, it is a season, which, unlike in the Western Hemisphere, signals the gathering in of the family in the home. Here, it is almost the reverse – ‘silly season’ might be a good name for it. When I was first invited to parties this time of year, I dressed in my finery and confidently strode out thinking that the venue would be inside, not even giving a passing thought

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Photo: Marina Marangos, Greece

to heavy sheepskins coats and balaclavas, which might ruin the ensemble and therefore be unbecoming. So, with some emphasis on my general polished appearances, off I would go to find, astonishingly, that these parties were all held outside. Yes, outside – in near polar conditions, because, unless you have lived in Delhi, one thing you do not count on is the coldness of the winter months. Of course, it is ‘North’ in the subcontinent and perhaps you could put two and two together, but all the images of this place suggest languid summer evenings, scant clothing, punkah wallahs and cooling sherbet drinks. The truth is that for a short but memorable time, the temperatures of the day plummet to just a few degrees above zero and the cold is punishing. So imagine my complete and utter astonishment when I turned up to these brazier-filled parties (‘brazier’ not to be confused with ‘brassiere’ – two words easily confused but having very different purposes). Generally you come across two types of braziers. Some are of burning coals and the embers gleam in the darkness, others are hissing gas-filled

ones rather taller and rounder and generate a more radiating heat. However, the heat is dispensed, and rest assured that it is sought after as if it was gold – because it is perishing out there and, with nothing but a little pashmina to shield you from the cold (which can be quite penetrating), this little beacon of balmy warmth becomes hotly contested. The overall effect – one which had me expressing my shimmering shivering as if it was the latest dance craze, while trying to hold steady the contents of a drink and eating a chicken tikka that, mercifully, was piping hot. So, it might not come as too much of a surprise to hear that one of the first presents I gave my husband after my first winter in Delhi was a wool blanket that all the guards wear when they come for their night watch, hoping for something warming and homely by return. It is fine wool one bought from Pushkar when the cold made the purchase a no brainer. The moral of the story: Ditch the fashion and the accessories. Go prepared – a polar outfit is the best for a night out at a Delhi party. The only problem is, will you make the grade for next year’s party list?

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Festival of the month by Team Culturama

Indian Harvest Festivals Across the months of January, various Indian states celebrate the harvest festival. Traditionally, the festival in India is a time of thanksgiving, when the harvest has been plentiful. Apart from the common elements of food, music, dance and colour that define the occasion, each state has its own way of celebrating this festival. The harvest festival in many states is also celebrated well onto the months of March. Here we list the celebrations in January, starting from those in the North of the country.

LOHRI January 13

Photo: Silvia Ricanek, Germany

Popularly known as the harvest festival of Punjab, takes place typically in the months of March and April. The memory of the legendry Dulha Bhatti, who is often synonymous with the legend of Robin Hood in the West, is commemorated. Children continue the tradition of going from door-to-door and singing his songs of chivalry, and they are given gifts in return. The highlight of this festival is the bonfire that is lit at sundown, when the God of fire, Agni, is worshipped for continued prosperity. To Do: While in Punjab, do visit the Golden temple at Amritsar and participate in the feast at the communal kitchens.

MAKARA SANKRANTHI/SANKRANTHI January 14 Literally meaning ‛transition’, this festival traces the Sun’s journey as it moves northwards, thus ushering in spring. Celebrated as Sankranthi in Karnataka, this festival symbolises new hope. It is also a time when families discard old clothes and things as a sign to welcome the new in the coming year. To Do: Food plays a central role during this festival, especially the sweets made of sesame seeds and sugar cane– be sure to try some.

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BHOGALI BIHU January 15

Photo: Marlene Wiegreffe, Germany

One of the biggest festivals of Assam, comes from the word ‘bhoga’, which means ‘to eat’ or ‘to enjoy’. This two-day festival begins with the creation of the Meiji or Bhelaghar, or make-shift thatch and bamboo enclosures, under which the entire community comes together for a feast. The next day, these shacks are set ablaze to signify obeisance to Agni (God of fire), and to ward off the evil for the next harvest season. To Do: Visit the weaving villages of Assam, such as Sualkuchi, known for exquisite natural silk fabrics such as Muga and Eri.

UTTARAYANA January 15 Like Sankranthi, Uttarayana also signifies the movement of the Sun, as ‘uttar’ means north, while ‘ayan’ means movement. If you happen to be in Gujarat or Rajasthan during this harvest season, you will see that the sky is dotted with the most magnificent array of kites – from the ordinary to the spectacular. This is the people’s homage to the Sun God. Parts of Maharashtra also follow this tradition. To Do: Check out the kite flying festival in Gujarat for never-seen-before shapes of kites.

Photo: Anke Bollen, The Netherlands

PONGAL January 15

Photo: Tineke Sysmans

The harvest festival of Tamil Nadu, is a tribute to the God of rain and sun, and a time to worship cattle that are an intrinsic part of the agricultural scenario in India. The first day or ‘Bhogi’ is when the rain god is worshipped. A huge bonfire built to burn old things, such as clothes and other material possessions in the evening. The second day, ‘Surya Pongal’ or ‘Thai Pongal’, is when the Sun God is worshipped, with milk heated in a pot and allowed to boil over, so as to symbolise overflowing prosperity in the coming year. The third day, ‘Maatu Pongal’, is when farmers pay their respects to their cattle, by decorating them with colourful pieces of cloth and parading them around the village. The last day is known as ‘Kaanum Pongal’, which literally means ‘to view’ – in rural parts, this is the day when communities come together and acknowledge each other’s support in the successful harvest. To Do: Try out the sweet and savoury versions of Pongal, which are made from freshly harvested rice.

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Give to India by Shefali Ganesh

Uniquely Unlimited

Across Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu, Delhi and Hyderabad, ‘UnLtd India’ acts as a catalyst for social entrepreneurs to carry out their good work

Scene one: A village in rural Maharashtra is playing host to visitors from neighbouring Mumbai. These urban guests will live with the villagers for a day or more, and participate in their farming activities for a taste of rustic India. Village tourism is catching on as a fast growing means of decreasing the rural-urban divide and to provide an additional livelihood for villagers. Scene two: In a bustling marketplace in Mumbai, a human chain is being formed to tell shoppers to switch from plastic to cloth bags and recycle them. The dictionary defines a ‘social entrepreneur’ as one who sets up an enterprise that aims to solve social problems. In developing countries like India, this new way of working is seen as the key to unlocking issues that affect society, such as the lack of education, creation of employment opportunities and even climate change. Entrepreneurial ideas like the ones in the above-mentioned scenes are working well, lending a hand to enable and leverage social change in areas where the Government struggles. However, to become a well structure model, these entrepreneurs need professional help – and this is where ‘UnLtd India’ comes into the picture. UnLtd India was founded by Pooja Warier and Richard Alderson in 2007, inspired by the UK-based incubator model UnLtd. With the core belief that “individuals with ideas

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can be a powerful force of change”, this enterprise is a unique proposition that helps non-profit, for profit and hybrid ventures in putting their ideas to work. Support offered is at three levels, and includes mentoring, networking and training and seed funding. Level 1 of incubation helps those with an idea or a pilot project; Level 2 assists projects that have potential to go large scale after a pilot; and Level 3 aids established social ventures to achieve self sustenance and is called the ‘Growth Challenge’. A volunteer with UnLtd India, Sylvie Putker, who is based in Mumbai, tells us that the selection process for these projects is an elaborate one. “Applications are invited twice a year from social entrepreneurs across Maharashtra for our Level 1 and Level 2 programs. These are filtered based upon our eligibility criteria. For our last application cycle, we received 245 applications; around 80 were selected and narrowed down to 16.” The Level 3 or Growth Challenge is an India-wide program and its selection process takes place once a year. UnLtd India has hand-held many such applicants from the first to the third level. As a natural extension of their work in creating the ideal ecosystem for entrepreneurs, came ‘Bombay Connect’. Though it was co-founded by Pooja Warier, Bombay Connect is now its own separate, for-profit entity. It offers a shared space for startup social ventures, complete with computers and other business requisites at comfortable rentals. Unlike a commercial business centre that just offers space for a rent, Bombay Connect offers great networking opportunities for entrepreneurs. Over the last four years, it has been organising events for people to meet over a casual environment and exchange ideas. UnLtd India had its beginnings in Maharashtra but now has affiliates in Tamil Nadu, Hyderabad and Delhi. The basic model is followed by individuals who show interest in generating social change, in each of their states. From children in Mumbai, who benefit through a toy-bank startup, to women textile workers in rural West Bengal whose life has been lit up by a solar energy project, the causes that UnLtd India has supported are unlimited indeed. UnLtd India is more than just a launch pad for social change makers – it is bringing on lasting change in society, across causes with a revolutionary model, all of which spell success.

UnLtd India is headquartered in Mumbai at Block 7, Candelar Building, Bandra West. Call +91 22 32163287 or visit www.unltdindia.org for more details. 39

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Myth and Mythology by Devdutt Pattanaik

Wipe out my memories, please In the yogic tradition, our mind is like a big database. Every experience that we have gets captured, mapped and tagged in our chitta. Thus, we retain memories of everything we have experienced, not just in this life but also our previous lives Our perceptions about the past and expectations of the future all come down to memories, buried deep in our being, that shape our view of the world. Can we wipe it out? Yes, says yoga, when it recommends the eight-fold path. In a European court, a modern battle is raging: the right to be forgotten. With all the data about our existence being captured by digital technology, by Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Gmail, besides government-sponsored and privately owned CCTVs at every street corner, and satellite cameras zooming into our homes, citizens are now asking that they want the right to be forgotten. This conversation draws attention to Shiva who is called smara-harta, or one who destroys memories. His ability to wipe out memories is what makes him Yoga-eshwara, Lord of yoga. In the yogic tradition, our mind or chitta is like a big database. Every experience that we have, consciously or unconsciously, gets captured, mapped and tagged in our chitta. Thus, we retain memories of everything we have experienced, not just in this life but also our previous lives. This twists and knots our mind and distorts our understanding of reality. Makes us see the world in a particular way. As long as our chitta is twisted and knotted in this way, we will always be unhappy. So how can we be happy? The easy method is to take drugs just as Shiva does when he inhales from his pipe, but Shiva chuckles for such chemically induced happiness is unsustainable. Parties are a great place to see this form of happiness. So is shopping.

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Photo: Cara Louwman-de Bruin, The Netherlands

Another method is to distract our mind with repetitive meaningless activities that stop us from thinking and make us forget time, like videogames or rituals. This is like the damaru or rattle-drum that Shiva holds in a hand used to spellbind a monkey as a rattle spellbinds a baby. It works for some time but not for long. Bollywood and television shows are the fountainhead of this form of happiness. This twisting of chitta often makes us feel that we are victims and so we often engage with the world as victims do. Sometimes we engage with the world as martyrs. At other times, as heroes striving to create a better world. A twisted chitta prevents us from appreciating that in the world even the most certified of villain imagines himself or herself as a victim/martyr/hero. A law firm or a psychologist’s chair is a great place to see such justified and rationalised (mis) understandings of the world. It all comes down to memories, buried deep in our being, that shape our view of the world. Can we wipe it out? Yes,

says yoga, when it recommends the eight-fold path. Yoga is defined as ‘chitta vritti nirodha’, removing the twists and knots of our mind, using the eight-fold path. This includes revisiting our relationship with others (yama), revisiting our own behaviours (niyama), reorienting our postures (asana), reorienting our breath (pranayama), introspection without external distraction (pratyahara), awareness (dharana), attention (dhyana) and finally cleaning up of all those memories that create divisions, gaps and hierarchies in our mind, making us feel trapped, alone, isolated and abandoned (samadhi). This cleaning up makes us chaitanya, one whose mind has been purified of all kinds of old data. We see the world afresh, with a rebooted mind free of prejudice. Will the European court achieve that?

Published on 20th December, 2013, in ‛The Speaking Tree’. Reprinted with permission from www.devdutt.com

January 2015

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5 Join Us Every Saturday India Immersion Centre in Chennai facilitates a weekly spiritual fellowship group following Easwaranâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Eight Point Programme of Meditation. E-mail us for more information at globalindian@globaladjustments.com. If you are in other cities, visit www.easwaran.org for e-satsangs.

Holistic living by Eknath Easwaran

A New Awakening

Photo: J.F. Vial, France

We are all the children of God â&#x20AC;&#x201C; realising our unity through the practice of meditation, and acting upon that awareness in every aspect of daily life can bring about a spiritual revolution that the world badly needs

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In the uninterrupted Hindu tradition, extending over thousands of years, there have been many men and women who have made their lives luminous by discovering the Lord hidden in their hearts and fulfilling the highest purpose of life. It is a discovery which has been verified by mystics of all the great religions, who have undergone difficult disciplines to extinguish self-will, still the mind and go beyond thought. Among Western scientists with whom I am familiar, Albert Einstein came nearest to understanding the vast practical applications of the supreme goal. “A human being is part of the whole, called by us ‘universe’ a part limited in time and space,” Einstein said. “He experiences him-self, his thoughts and feelings, as something separate from the rest – a kind of optical delusion of consciousness. This delusion is a kind of prison for us, restricting us to our personal desires and to affection for a few persons nearest to us. Our task must be to free ourselves from this prison by widening our circle of compassion to embrace all living creatures and the whole of nature in its beauty.”

Our spiritual roots Although the Industrial Revolution has brought the developed nations many conveniences, its narrow emphasis on science and technology is in danger of becoming an end in itself and not the means to an end. The obsessive belief that we are our bodies and nothing more, that our problems have only physical or technological solutions, is robbing us of our humanity. Despite the vast explosion of information, we have almost lost our connection to the core of divine inspiration within us. We are fast becoming robots that can be programmed by the mass media, and any civilisation that loses the precious human capacity to cherish high ideals cannot endure for long. That is why I feel deeply that a spiritual revolution is necessary and urgent. While the impact of science is changing the face of the globe, I still have full faith that there will arise in the not distant future shining men and women who will remind us all of our deepest spiritual roots in accordance with the latent capacities and the current needs of the twenty-first century. Many more Gandhis, St. Francises and St. Teresas may have to appear to bring about a spiritual revolution which can correct the excesses of the Industrial Revolution. Such a revolution can never be brought about by machines that think, only by men and women who can go

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beyond thought, discover the supreme reality and release a river of love which spreads over the earth and finally reaches the Sea of God.

The role of meditation We can all play a part in this peaceful revolution by practising the spiritual disciplines which have come down the centuries in the great religions of the world. The heart of these disciplines is the regular practice of meditation. The method of meditation I have followed can be used in any great religion because it involves the silent repetition of memorised inspirational passages drawn from all the major spiritual traditions. Training the mind to develop sustained attention on these inspired words brings about a gradual transformation of character, conduct and consciousness. When we concentrate profoundly on the magnificent Prayer of St. Francis of Assisi, for example, we find his healing words – “It is in giving that we receive”– sinking into our hearts and changing our lives. We no longer see ourselves as physical, separate, finite creatures. As we begin to find fulfilment within ourselves, we lose our dependence upon manipulating the external world to cater to our greed and our lust for power over nature. This shift in priorities can lead to an artistic simplification of life which will keep the air pure, the water clean, the forests green, and fossil fuels abundant for our children. Finding fulfillment within rather than without enables us to move from the world of profit and power into the world of peace and love. We can enter this new world by making far-reaching changes in education, the upbringing of children, relationships between the sexes and our attitude toward other countries. Only then can we develop the full understanding that we are a global family of all nations, religions and races. In this global family the birds and the beasts, the seas and the mountains, the forests and the fields are each an integral part. We are all the children of God, who has given us this beautiful earth to nourish us. Realising our unity through the practice of meditation and the allied disciplines, and acting upon that awareness in every aspect of daily life, is what a spiritual revolution means.

Reprinted with permission from ‘Spiritual Revolution’, an article by Eknath Easwaran from The Blue Mountain Journal. Copyright The Blue Mountain Center of Meditation, P.O. Box 256, Tomales, CA 94971, www.easwaran.org. (Extract from http://www.easwaran.org/spiritual-revolution.html)

January 2015

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Global Wellness Series

Straighten Up!

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The Normal Spine is not in a straight line but is curved -the spine can be affected by abnormal curves, which can cause a cosmetic deformity and also affect the function of the individual. The three main types of Spinal Deformity include: A) Scoliosis, which is abnormal sideward bend when someone is viewed from the back. B) Kyphosis, which is abnormal backward convexity when someone is viewed from the side. C) Lordosis, which is abnormal forward convexity when someone is viewed from the side. Patients with Spinal Deformity should be assessed carefully by a surgeon who treats these conditions on a regular basis, as it requires knowledge and experience to decide on the type and timing of treatment. Early detection of these problems could avoid or minimize the extent of surgery and will also improve the result s of surgical treatment. Surgical treatment usually involves correction of deformity and fixation or fusion of the spine in the corrected position. Depending on the severity of the deformity the surgery may be done from the back alone or with an additional procedure through the chest or abdomen. When there is a compression or a congenital problem of the spinal cord, these should be treated first before correcting the deformity. Spinal Deformity correction surgeries can now be performed successfully and safely, giving these patients a more meaningful and productive life.

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