Culturama July 2011 by Rohini Manian

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India's only Cultural Magazine for Expatriates

VOLUME 2, iSSUE 5 July 2011

art-tribute revisiting the artistic genius of m.f. hussain

stone age

D e a r

R e a d e r s

He never wore footwear. He believed in acupressure on the soles as a great tool to his health. With feet planted firmly on earth, M.F. Hussain affected eternity. When I met Hussain in 2005, it was a special day. Our dear friend Madhu, an entrepreneur, from Lakshana Arts, called to say I should chat with him. We have carried the interview again in this issue for Culturama readers in memory of a magician artist; it was one I conducted with great joy. (Turn to Page 30). Hussain took out a sheet of white paper, and said if you ask a child in India to draw a house, he draws four straight lines, one inverted V over it and then proceeds to draw a chimney. Where in India are homes with chimneys? This is the colonising of our minds and indeed of our art by the West, where they had chimneys. Let children’s imagination run riot, don’t put them in boxes. And I came away inspired, I gave Hussain our calendar made of the best entries of the photo competition expatriate images of beautiful India, which he admired and autographing one for me, said, “Don’t forget to continue to promote Bharat Mata.” I met him one more time, the day after M.S. Subbalakshmi had passed away; inspired by her life he did a large portrait of hers. Madhu called me again to come buy this piece. But we turned it down as MS without her soulful eyes drawn out didn’t seem to do justice to her personality. I regret this decision today. I regret M.F. Hussain’s exile, like many in India too. And we offer this issue of Culturama to his memory. In this issue of our magazine, Parvathy Baul brings alive the ancient Indian tradition of Baul as we engage in a Coffee and Conversation session with her. We also look at Shimla’s unique cuisine and locales in our India on a Platter and India and I columns. Ian Watkinson busts the ‘Curry Myth’ and don’t forget to listen to the inspiring story of the young singing sensation, Naresh Iyer. Ranjini Manian Editor-in-Chief To contact me directly, e-mail globalindian@globaladjustments.com

Catch the e-version of this magazine! Log on to www.globaladjustments.com/culturama.html

culturama | July 2011

contents 24

12 Coffee & Conversation

Soul Full

16 A-Z of INdia

Textile Twists

The cover image of this month's Culturama is of artist M.F. Hussain and was shot in March 2005, when he visited Chennai following the passing away of legendary singer M.S. Subbulakshmi. Art is inextricably woven into Indian culture and in this issue we look at its many facets as we pay tribute to one of India's finest artists.

20 india on a platter

The Dham Effect 24 Feature

The American Dream 28 Look who's in town

Chennai, Bengaluru and Delhi

30 star struck

Art and Soul

Better Tomorrow

Chennai, Bengaluru, Mumbai and Delhi

40 Photo feature

Khajuraho - The Forgotten Kingdom

42 Rising india

Starry-eyed Surprise

culturama | july 2011

52 Holisitic living

Don't Crowd Your Day

54 bursting the bubble

The Great Curry Myth 56 PORTRAIT OF INDIA 57 INTERPRETATIONS

Flower Power

57 INTERPRETATIONS

Handy Art Mantra

58 inner space

Delhi-NCR Level 4, Augusta Point, DLF Golf Course Road, Sector-53, Gurgaon - 122 002. Haryana. Tel.+91-124-435 4236. E-mail: del@globaladjustments.com

Published and owned by Ranjini Manian at #5, 3rd Main Road, Raja Annamalai Puram, Chennai â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 600028 and printed by K Srinivasan of Srikals Graphics Pvt Ltd at #5, Balaji Nagar, 1st Street, Ekkattuthangal, Chennai â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 600032. Editor: Ranjini Manian

48 India snapshots

58 name sake

Bengaluru 216, Prestige Center Point, Off Cunningham Road, 7, Edward Road, Bengaluru 560052. Tel.+91-80-41267152/41148540. E-mail: blr@globaladjustments.com

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Shimla Special 50 India immersion centre

34 Calendars

Chennai 5, 3rd Main Road, R. A. Puram, Chennai 600028, India. Telefax. +91-44-24617902 E-mail: designstore@globaladjustments.com

Leading the Way

46 India & I

32 CAUSE AND EFFECT

Editor-in-Chief Ranjini Manian business head susanna kurian Associate Editor Lakshmi Krupa Assistant editor Amreetha Janardhan creative head JayaKrishna Behera Associate Designer Prem Kumar Advertising Chennai Anupama Raj, trishla jain Bengaluru mukundan T Delhi-NCR Preeti Bindra, Ruchika Srivastava Mumbai & Pune Farah Bakhshay, Ashish Chaulkar Advisory Committee Timeri N Murari, N Ram, Elaine Wood, James J Williams, G Venket Ram, Carmen HUTHOEFER-HEINRICH

44 view from the top

Windows to the World

59 festivals of india 60 tales of india

61 OFFICE YOGA 62 iSeries

iRead, iSee, iLike and iAsk

66 space & the city

N e w s w o r t h y

Season of the witch

Letters to the Editor Dear Editor, The first time I visited India, I found Culturama (At a Glance at that time) on top of the coffee table in my hotel room. While reading the magazine, I discovered many interesting things about India and found many friends offering their help to ease my relocation to the city. That happened more than two years ago and since then, Culturama has been sharing interesting articles about Indian culture.

Followers of witchcraft celebrate the festival of Lugnasadh (pronounced loo-nah-sah) on July 31. Also denoting the beginning of the first of three Harvest festivals, Lugnasadh or Lammas literally translates to the funeral games of Lugh, the Irish sun god. It symbolises the funeral that Lugh throws for his foster mother, Tailte. Some wiccans bake and consume corn bread — shaped in the God’s figures — symbolising sacrifice. Pagans often share a feast with their coven members as the season wears on, to remember the warmth and bounty of the summer. The seeds from the fruits eaten are also saved and planted. Although the festival shares the name with its Celtic counterpart, the celebrations are not based on it and in earlier times the festival was just called “August Eve”.

— Alfonso de Braganza Dear Editor, I managed to get my hands on your June issue of Culturama and this was the first time I was seeing it. And needless to say, it blew me off. What a wonderful magazine and in time with the past, present and future. Your article on how we have done things, are doing things & plan to do in an alphabetical order was a wonderfully presented one. — Vidya Prakash, CEO, Way2Holidays Planners & Consultants Dear Editor, With busy schedules, we Indians ignore the essence and the cultural fragrance of our country however, Culturama has made us get to know things that we have missed. — Karthik

culturama | july 2011

The Potter portal Don’t be surprised if you walk into the cinemas in India on July 15 to find fans dressed in witch costumes and pointing wands at each other saying, “Expecto Patronum!” for the final film in the international superhit phenomenon Harry Potter series hits the screens. Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows Part 2 in 3D is among the most highly-anticipated films of the year, as fans await watching Harry, Ron and Hermoine go on a mission to put an end to Lord Voldemort’s atrocities, including a final face-off between the two leading characters. At the heart of the plot lies a prophecy predicted by a soothsayer that “Only one shall live”. India too has its own 3D magic. Catch Chota Chetan on DVD for a taste of our own little genie!

tion

ffee

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PARVATHY BAUL WITH HER GURU SHRI SASANKO GOSAI

culturama | july 2011

soul full Clad in saffron, with her long locks swaying, the ektara (one-stringed musical instrument), duggi (a clay drum) and nupur (anklets) for company, Parvathy Baul is among India's most well-known Baul singers. Baul is not just a form of folk music or spirituality but a way of life for this story-teller. Performing across the world including at the Festival de l'imaginaire (Paris), Festival international du Conte et du Monodrame (Beirut, Lebanon), and Ethnomad (Geneva, Switzerland) and in India, she is indeed a musical phenomenon. Lakshmi Krupa in a one-on-one with her...

Parvathy Baul is a name that is readily recognisable in the Baul tradition of Sufi music. A typical performance of the singer features a silent audience falling under the spell of her voice as she taps her drum and her feet — as her anklets and drum form the rhythm — the ektara adding to the melody as she sings in Bengali and dances as her mind bids her to; her long locks moving in synchrony. It does not matter that not everyone in the audience understands the language of her songs; the message, that of bhakti (devotion), love and divinity, reaches out to anyone with a passion for the Sufi form irrespective of their own cultural leanings. The Baul form of music has been a tradition and a way of life for centuries. But is there more to it than meets the eye, beyond just music? The Baul is an undercurrent of Indian thought and spirituality. It is not just a state of mind but also something we practice every minute of our life. When we say philosophy, we always assume it has nothing to do with the way we actually live, but Baul is a life practice, where one lives the song of life, truthful to whatever is sung. The Bauls’ life is their

sadhana (practice). Baul is based on the belief that music brings one closer to god. Baul practitioners have the concept of a Moner Manush — meaning the man of my heart, a golden man or essential man, an idealised state of being. Can you tell us about your tryst with Baul music? I was born in Assam and went to school there before moving on to Kala Bhavan as a student of Visual Art. I have always had a great love for music and loved the Baul form that I would listen to on the radio. I had, however, no direct contact with the form until I went to Shantiniketan. It is there that I first met Baul singers. It was very close to my own nature. Bauls live their music. It is an art not just for entertainment but also a form of meditation. I had been training in classical music and dance and was in the habit of performing locally, so stage fright was never an issue as I took this tradition up. How did your family react to your choice of lifestyle? In the beginning, they did not think it was such a good idea. They did not think it was a great career choice either. And a woman singing songs of love for a living was, indeed, hard for everyone to fathom.

culturama | July 2011

A guru (teacher) is someone who shows you the path to become one with the higher power. They say everyone has a guru and a sishya (student) within themselves.

They thought I would live a lonely life. I did not think that way, of course. But now even they have come to think differently. They now agree that this is the life for me and they are happy that I have found happiness. Everything — money, home, fame — is temporary. What we need to find is happiness. What do the Bauls sing about? What is the underlying meaning of their sadhana? The Bauls sing about the body as a vehicle. They say it is a tool for one to reach the essence. And it is based on the concept of gurutattva — where one moves from ignorance to self-realisation with the help of a guru (teacher). A guru is someone who shows you the path to become one with the higher power. They say everyone has a guru and a sishya (student) within themselves. It is also based on Prematattva, which says if one doesn't have love, it is difficult to expand one's horizons. Next, it is based on Bhaktitattva, which is bhakti (devotion) based not on fanaticism but on one that is empowered with gnana (knowledge). Leelatattva, these are about small, beautiful stories of Krishna, where one forgets their earthly bondages and dedicates oneself to God. It talks about how a simple love story can take us to a high spiritual state.

culturama | july 2011

What are your songs like and what do you like to sing about? Are some of them spontaneous? There are gurus who have been living the Baul tradition for decades and I learn from them. But I don't sing them all. It is a combination of practice, composing and learning. I love learning. It is like a travel through the mystic tradition. Ours is not a static tradition; it is an organic one because it is based on knowledge, and it can never be said that one has found everything. It keeps changing, and we move on along with the process of finding and learning. I meet many interesting people through my life and find meaning through them

as well. At first, I learned from a lady Baul, Phoolmala Dasi, and then from Sanatana Baul. That's when I learned to play the ektara too. For the first five years I did not perform, I only learned. My guru said, “First you practice and perfect, then you can perform”. What is a Baul's typical day like? Does it involve a lot of practice? It is rigorous just like every other form of art. It keeps changing these days as I travel extensively to perform. But it is about finding a balance everyday; our song is our meditation. When you perform you cannot hide yourself, you have to be connected. It's like a thousand meditations put together.

A to Z of India

Susan Philip

Textile twists In India, there are myriad ways to dress up your dreams. Here’s an A-Z sampling of what the country has to offer the world of textiles

Appliqué is a distinctive style of stitching cloth motifs onto background fabrics of clothing and furnishings. Furnishings —Haryana and Madhya Pradesh are known for dhurries and carpet weaving, introduced to India by the Moghuls.

Ikkat — otherwise called Pattola — this style of textile refers to the dyeing and weaving of both silk and cotton yarn.

Khadi — inextricably linked with the freedom movement, this hand-spun, handwoven and handprinted fabric, has now become fashionable fabric.

culturama | july 2011

Batik, a fabric-based craft, involves resistance dyeing using wax, with the cracks in the wax producing a final effect.

Dyes - Indigo blue and the Madder dye which produces a vibrant red, have both been used from ancient times in India.

Cotton has long been among India’s prized products. Look out for examples further along in this piece.

Embroidery styles — Bengal’s Kantha work, UP’s Chikankari, Karnataka’s Kasauti and Punjab’s Phulkari have all found world fame.

Gadhwal sarees take their name from Gadhwal in Andhra Pradesh and are made of cotton, with silk borders woven separately and attached.

Jamawar shawls — woven in wool, with a touch of cotton, and silk brocade borders, this Kashmiri fabric is mainly patterned in paisley.

Hand-knitted socks from Himachal Pradesh are a novelty. As are gloves and mittens in bright colours and beautiful patterns!

Lace-making — Jamnagar in Gujarat, Narsapur in Andhra Pradesh and various places in Kerala and Tamil Nadu have earned themselves worldwide repute for lace.

Muslin — once called ‘woven air’, Jamdhani sarees are perhaps the most famous of muslin weaves today.

North eastern India — local tribes bring their unique cultures to bear on the cloth their women weave mostly in white, black, red and blue.

Quilts — Jaipur Razais, as they’re known, are made by womenfolk in traditional patterns.

Pashmina shawls — Made from yarn spun from the underbelly fur of the Pashmina goat, these shawls are lightweight, and beautiful.

Silks are synonymous with South India. The Kancheevarams from Tamil Nadu and the Dharmavarams from Andhra, each has its own USP.

Venkatagiri sarees from Andhra Pradesh are embellished with pure silver thread, and have traditional floral, avian and geometric motifs.

Tie-anddye fabric is made using the resistance dyeing technique. The bandhini of Rajasthan is the most popular.

Words added to the English dictionary include calico, khaki, chintz, seersucker and shawl.

Yarns are the warp and weft of textiles, so to speak, and India is the world’s biggest supplier of this commodity.

culturama | july 2011

Orissa’s tribals — The dyeing process is long and tedious, but the scarves and sarees are snapped up by buyers everywhere.

Roghan — Special oil-based, hand-painted designs that have the sheen of lac. Exclusively found in Gujarat’s Nirona village.

Uppada sarees — made of cotton or silk, delicately patterned and woven exclusively by the Andhra locals using the Jamdhani technique.

X-clusive! Custom-made ‘designer’ wear sequinned and beaded to within an inch of its life, each can lay claim to this term.

Zari gives the finishing touch of richness to Indian textiles.

India on a Platter

TEA M C ULTURA M A

The Dham Effect Rice, madra (curd-based dish), curry (cooked with beaten curd), raita (made of dry fruits with mustard base), one or two pulses (lentils) and sweet rice.

THAT’S IT. This will be the standard meal served at the end of each festival in Himachal Pradesh. Also called the dham, it may sound unusual or uninteresting to many; but when you’re there, amidst the exquisite beauty, heritage and peaceful ambience, the simplicity in the menu is almost a fading memory. It’s the pure innocence that makes the dham divine! The dham is one meal that has to be cooked by a group of Brahmins called the botis. They are a particular sect of Brahmins who are hereditary chefs. The cooking is long and elaborate, beginning a day in advance. As guests and relatives assemble at home for the festivities, the sharp aroma of spices takes centre stage. It must be mentioned here that Himachalis prefer non-vegetarian cuisine. With a vast array of natural lakes and fast flowing rivers, fishing contributes to their livelihood. For anglers, Himachal Pradesh is the destination to fly your net and catch. a hefty 3.5 kg trout. Although Himachali cuisine is light and simple, a lot of spices are used. Cinnamon and cardamom are common ingredients. Hence, even when the dham is vegetarian, it’s these spices that add flavour. The cooking style and recipes have been handed down through generations, but it’s not a surprise to hear that Himachal cuisine is influenced by its neighbouring states — Punjab, Haryana, Jammu and Kashmir and Uttar Pradesh. Some even trace a Greek influence! The botis also have to be in charge of serving the meals to the guests on pattals (leaf plates). Seated on the floor with unexotic food served may make the dham sound unsophisticated and very subtle to call it a festive meal, but it’s the effort and elaborate process involved that makes the dham so unique. Keeping the culture intact with no invasion or modification, is the primary reason the dham is still close to the heart of many Himachalis and an intrigue to many food bloggers.

culturama | july 2011

Recipe Shimla Capsicum Rice (portions for two) Rice – 1 cup Capsicum – 4 Turmeric - ¼ tsp Oil – 1 tbsp Juice of 1 lemon Salt to taste Black gram – 2 tsp Bengal gram – 3 tsp Red chillies – 6 1 inch cinnamon bark Coriander seeds – 2 tsp Cashewnuts – 10 Peanuts – 1 tbsp Few curry leaves Grated coconut – 1½ tbsp

Method - Cook the rice till three-fourth is done and spread it on a platter. Add a teaspoon of oil to it and let it cool. - Add one teaspoon oil in a frying pan. When it’s hot, add the chillies and let it crackle. Add the cinnamon stick, coriander seeds, cumin seeds, Bengal gram and black gram. Sauté till all the ingredients turn golden brown. Turn off the flame and allow to cool. Blend to a fine powder. - Temper some mustard seeds and let it crackle. Add red chillies, black gram, Bengal gram, peanuts, cashew nuts, curry leaves and grated coconut. Sauté till golden brown. Add the cut capsicum and cook till done.

Quick Bytes ▪ Kullu Trout, Grilled Fishes, Chicken Anaardana are some of the best non-vegetarian dishes you can sample in Himachal Pradesh.

▪ The staple diet of Himachalis includes rice, paddy and maize.

▪ A must-try while in Himachal Pradesh is Makki, fresh corn flour ground in a water propelled-mill and eaten with milk at breakfast.

culturama | july 2011

- Add the turmeric, salt and the rice. Mix well. Sauté for a few minutes. - Remove the rice mixture from the flame. Add the lemon juice and the powder. - Mix it well and serve with coriander and fried onion slices.

In the Kitchen Add a tablespoon of boiling water to a packet of your favourite salad dressing. Mix, cover and allow to cool. The flavour is released immediately. Add other ingredients as usual. To make thick asparagus stalks tender, peel the lower parts up to the tender part with a potato peeler. Stalks taste as good as the tips this way. A tablespoon of vinegar added to water while poaching eggs lets whites set without spreading.

Seasonal Fruits Jambul Fruit (Jamun) Where: Found widely in North India and Tamil Nadu, between May and June. What: The fruit is a rich source of vitamins A and C and is particularly beneficial to diabetic patients. When: The fruit turns a purple-black upon ripening. How: It is most often eaten by hand or with honey.

Feature

t e a m c u lt u r a m a

the american

dream As the land where dreams come true celebrates its 235th independence day this July 4, we take a look at some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous Indo-Americans.

culturama | july 2011

Amartya Sen Nobel Laureate Amartya Sen, known for his contributions to welfare economics and social choice theory, was born and brought up in present-day Dhaka, Bangladesh. His family moved to India post the partition from Bangladesh, settling down in West Bengal. Sen is known across the globe for his work on the causes of famine. On the Nobel website, Sen is quoted as saying, “The educational excellence of Presidency College (in Calcutta) was captivating. My interest in economics was amply rewarded by quite outstanding teaching... I was at Presidency College during 1951 to 1953. The memory of the Bengal famine of 1943, in which between two and three million people had died, and which I had watched from Shantiniketan, was still quite fresh in my mind”. It is indeed this instance that would go on to impact Sen and form the foundation for his groundbreaking work in the field. Sen is currently a Professor at the Thomas W. Lamont University and a Professor of Economics and Philosophy at Harvard University.

Jhumpa Lahiri Although born in Britain to Indian parents, the Pulitzer winning author who currently calls America her home, is known worldwide for stories that deal with identities, stemming from her own need to balance worlds. Her fist novel Namesake, made into a film of the same name, dealt with the story of a family that moves from India to America and the challenges of immigrant Indians in the country—their struggle to belong. Her books reflect varied themes surrounding the life of immigrants, cultural clashes, generation gap, identity crisis and more, in their lives. Jhumpa’s long-running relationship with the New Yorker magazine, to which she has regularly contributed through the years, including as recently as June, is also noteworthy. Her first book was a collection of short stories titled Interpreter of Maladies and her last book, The Unaccustomed Earth was also a similar collection.

M Night Shyamalan His very first full-length film made the world sit up and notice. Born Manoj Nelliyattu Shyamalan, in Puducherry, M Night Shyamalan’s supernatural thrillers have been instant hits with audiences. The Sixth Sense, his first commercial film starring Bruce Willis was a highly succesful box office hit that managed to please critics as well. It’s a little-known fact that Shyamalan’s first-ever film Praying with Anger that opened at the Toronto International Film Festival and played in only one theatre in the United States, was shot in Chennai. Shyamalan was also awarded the Padmashree by the Indian government, one of the highest civilian honours of the country.

culturama | July 2011

Pt Ravi Shankar This sitar maestro needs little introduction to anyone who knows their music. From his very first musical project (The Apu Trilogy by Satyajit Ray) to his association with The Beatles, Ravi Shankar took Indian music to shores afar. Born in Varanasi, the Pandit (as he is referred to) taught George Harrison of The Beatles the art of playing sitar and performed at the Woodstock Festival, even though he went on to distance himself from the flower power movement later. He is also the father of two musically gifted daughters, Norah Jones and Anoushka Shankar.

Padma Lakshmi Padma Lakshmi, born in Chennai, is a very famous author, actor and model who has made the United States her home now. The Emmynominated Top Chef show host was also one of India’s biggest models who toured Paris, Milan and modelled for top international designers. She is also the winner of the Best First Book at the 1999 World Cookbook Awards for her maiden cookbook venture titled Easy Exotic. Formerly married to another Indian-born genius Salman Rushdie, Padma has acted in a comic role in a film titled Glitter and appeared alongside Aishwarya Rai in the film, Mistress of Spices.

The Great Khali Born under the name Dilip Singh Raina from the state of Himachal Pradesh in North India, The Great Khali, formerly served as a police officer with the Punjab state police in India. Winning himself the title of Mr. India two years in a row, this 7’1” Goliath went on to take part in Japanese pro-wrestling in 2001–2002 until he found his true calling with the WWE (World Wrestling Entertainment), previously known as WWF, in 2006 becoming the first ever Indian to be signed on to the show! In 2007, he bagged his first World Heavyweight Championship defeating a formidable 19 other wrestlers in a 20-man Battle Royal. He is also remembered for his memorable performance in the 2005 Hollywood blockbuster ‘The Longest Yard’ alongside wrestling-gods Bill Goldberg, Steve Austin, Kevin Nash and comedians Adam Sandler and Chris Rock, as well as films such as Get Smart starring Anne Hathway and Steve Carell. Other noteworthy Indians who have made the United States their home Venkatraman Ramakrishnan, Nobel Laureate - Chemistry for the year 2009; Ajay Bhatt, co-invented the USB Sunita Williams, NASA astronaut; Zubin Mehta, Former conductor of the New York Philharmonic Orchestra Ashok Amritraj, Producer in Hollywood; Kiran Desai, Author and Man Booker Prize winner Amitav Ghosh, Author and Man Booker Prize winner 26

culturama | july 2011

Look who’s in Town germany

Dominique Lopez

Consultant Specialised in Public Health My India, My Country Living in India is mainly a question of being able to adjust and accommodate to a different culture, codes and way of life — something not easy every day. Some would say that there is no similarity between India and France. Well, I found a few. In both countries we love and enjoy good food, and bureaucracies are functioning (or not) in similar ways! My Favourite Indian Besides my husband, who is of course on top of the list, Dr Sreedharan for the way he is managing the Delhi Metro project and refusing corruption, Aamir Khan for his movies, Madhuri Dixit for her dance performances, JMS Mani for his paintings and Jhumpa Lahiri for her books. My Indian Cuisine I had the opportunity to discover different types of regional food ranging from Tamil Nadu to Bengal. I really enjoy chaat (street food), with bhel puri and dahi puri being my favourites. I would also never say no to mangoes! My India Insight What I love about India is the solidarity and family support. It seems like we have lost these values in France. The number of plastics bags you see on the streets of villages and cities, not to mention the beaches, of India is alarming! So, I always refuse plastics and use my own cotton shopping bags. It may be a small gesture at an individual level, but it would make an impact if more people were doing it. My Tip to India Being French doesn’t mean that you know a lot about wine, or that you drink wine only.

culturama | july 2011

delhi

chennai

france

Michael, Katja and Jule Simmangk

My India, My Country Moving to India, we found that Indians are very welcoming and hospitable. Being German and having lived in Switzerland for five years, we admire the Indian patience and serenity. We also appreciate living in a democratic country, with freedom of speech and a working legal system. My Favourite Indian Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of India, who fought, as Gandhi did, against the Indian caste system and for legal rights and social freedom for women. Nehru wanted freedom and change through knowledge, understanding and the welfare of society. My Indian Cuisine We have tasted and love North Indian Food — butter chicken, black lentil dal and all kinds of naan. For our next holiday, we will go to south India and taste the food there. We have not yet cooked Indian food, but wish to buy a cookbook and learn the Indian way of cooking. My India Insight We admire the diversity of Indian cultures and the continuing living tradition. On the other hand, we are fascinated by the rapid departure of India into a modern Indian society with political and social reforms. We also like how Indian family ties are maintained and respected. However, we still have difficulty in understanding the system of human welfare and environmental protection. For instance, littering seems to be common practice. My Tip to India We need to remember and appreciate the differences in our behaviours and we would like to learn from Indians’ diversity, cultural tradition and of course Indian patience!

bengaluru

england

India’s only cultural magazine for expatriates.

Nichola Vickers

Full-time mother and wife, part-time accountant My India, My Country Totally different way of from life in England; everything is much more laidback and slower, but on the negative side trying to get things done quickly can become rather frustrating. On a positive note, it is great to be surrounded by so much colour and culture. My Favourite Indian No contest; really has to be our maid Kala, who has been with us for three years and become a huge part of our family. She’s become a second mother and playmate for our little girl and an absolute lifeline for the whole family; we truly would be lost without her! My Indian Cuisine Not being a huge fan of spicy food, many people ask why I live in India? But now I am becoming more adventurous and trying a bit more. Kala does a fantastic biryani and chapattis but I think my overall favourite would be simply butter naan! My India Insight Not exactly cultural but I love the friendly interest people show us. One part of the culture I really don’t like is the caste system. I already am trying to change it in a small way, by showing that nothing is beneath me and that I’m willing to ‘muck in’ with everyone to get things done. My Tip to India We like honesty,don’t be afraid to say ‘no’ to us. We’d far rather you did than lead us on in false hope. Time keeping is fairly important to the ‘Brits’!

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Star Struck

M.F. hussain

art and soul ASK CHILDREN TO OBSERVE A LEAF — THE TEXTURE, SHAPE, UNIFORM EDGES, SYMMETRY AND PATTERNS. OBSERVING NATURE IS SPIRITUALITY. THAT IS WHY TRIBALS MAKE SUCH WONDERFUL ARTEFACTS. THEIR OBSERVATION IS UNDILUTED.

He is perhaps India’s best selling and best-known painter. He is Maqbool Fida Hussain, the grand old man of Indian art. Global Adjustments caught up with him at an exhibition of prints dedicated to the late classical music singer, M. S. Subbulakshmi, in March 2005. She was a giant on the music scene, and Mr. Hussain’s painting of her stood six feet tall, glowing in red, black and gold. As visitors streamed past, Mr. Hussain shared his thoughts with us. “What does it take to become an artiste?” “Start early,” he says. Art appreciation as a subject needs to be added at the kindergarten level. “Let children go outside the box. When you ask a child in India to draw a house he puts down a square first, then an inverted V as a roof and finally a chimney with smoke coming out. Where in India do we have homes with chimneys?” Mr. Husain asked. “Many a child, when asked to draw a tree, draws a Christmas tree,” he added. “Do encourage them to observe their own culture.” “In our country, right from school, creative thinking is destroyed. If a child colours the sky red, he should be allowed to do so and not be told it should be blue. Please don’t kill independent thinking.” “Aspiration, philosophy, music, dance, painting — the essence of all this in our country is spirituality,” he continued. “Spirituality needs to be taught young. Ask children to observe a leaf — the texture, shape, uniform edges, symmetry and patterns. Observing nature is spirituality. That is why tribals make such wonderful artefacts. Their observation is undiluted.” The Global Adjustments 2005 Calendar we presented him, with photos of India taken by expats, set him off in a ruminative vein. “Do you know, just as you explain Indian culture and tradition to foreigners, we had an artistic movement triggered by the Gandhian movement around Independence? We wanted to maintain Indian roots, revive our own culture and a group of artists dedicated our lives to this cause in 1947–48.”

“We are proud of who we are. Long before Michelangelo sculpted David, our forefathers depicted the human form in the Chola Nataraja — a cosmic and a highly evolved form.” “Let not the Western world know us as jugglers, rope trick experts or for paintings of Indian miniatures alone. Creating an awareness of the totality and richness of Indian art is the need.” We couldn’t resist slipping in one last question about his famous trait of going barefoot. The answer is his belief in acupressure. “Unless it is biting cold, I believe in walking barefoot. That is why I have no knee pain even at my age,” he tosses back as he heads off to the crowds waiting for him. This issue of Culturama is dedicated to Maqbool Fida Hussain, whose brief time with us, continues to influence. We re-dedicate ourselves to his instructional and inspirational leadership style as we do our bit to preserve India’s culture.

culturama | July 2011

Cause and Effect

L a k s hm i K r u p a

Better Tomorrow Come July, NalandaWay Foundation’s Art Arattai and Arpattam will give children across Tamil Nadu a chance to experience art in a unique context… The Chennai-based NalandaWay Foundation works with children from the most marginalised sections of society, rehabilitating them, helping them build life skills and livelihood skills, using art as a medium. Says, Sriram V Ayer, an Ashoka Fellow and Founder, NalandaWay Foundation, “Art makes one calmer and socially accessible, and at NalandaWay we use art to make learning relevant.” Over 6,000 disadvantaged children and young people from Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh, Delhi, Bihar and Jammu and Kashmir have participated in NaladndaWay’s workshops. “We work in tandem with organisations that rescue children and our main focus is in bringing significant changes to their capabilities and future,” Sriram adds. Art as a Tool NalandaWay’s training approach uses participatory drama as its core content. “We use a variety of applied theatre forms such as advanced role-play, improvisation, creative games and exercises, storytelling and other participatory training techniques,” he adds, “In all our projects we use theatre and drama techniques as the core platform. Theatre, we believe, helps us un-learn and think ‘out-of-the-box’. Theatre is also an experiential way to learn complex concepts.” Accomplished people with rich experience from different walks of life are recruited and

trained to become mentors for children aged between 8 and 14. Art Arattai and Arpattam In its fourth year, Art Arattai and Arpattam is a combination of artistic events that will allow over 2,00,000 children from diverse socioeconomic backgrounds to experience art in over 2,000 locations and also act as a fundraising activity for NalandaWay. Check out the events from July 17 to July 30 ranging from film festivals, lecdems, art contests, storytelling workshops and puppet shows. Finally, do not miss NalandaWay’s signature production Paati Vadai Kaaka Nari, a hilarious musical adaptation of the classical Panchatantra tale on July 30 at the Museum Theatre, Chennai at 6.30 p.m.

Be the change! • Volunteer at the Art Arattai and Arpattam event. • Sponsor a child. • Be a mentor.

NalandaWay Foundation, AH-129, 1st Floor, 4th Street, Anna Nagar. www.nalandaway.org 32

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CALENDAR CHENNAI THEATRE & MUSIC Atita: Outta this world July 1, 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. July 2–3, 6 p.m. The Little Festival brings you a play revolving around two men who stumble upon a mysterious object near a meteorite crash site releasing strange and alien creatures. Museum Theatre, Pantheon Road, Egmore. Contact 9677125738

* Event details are correct at the time of printing. However, we encourage readers to call and reconfirm at the venues concerned. Numbers beside each event indicate the date. Events are divided into categories like film, music, etc. Addresses and phone numbers of venues and places mentioned are listed under Venues.

aRT & EXHIBITION Between one shore and several other July 1–16, 10.30 a.m. – 6 p.m. A solo exhibition by Vivek Vilasin; The concept that all cultures are connected with, and influenced by one, and another forms the core of the expression. Gallery Sumukha, 187, St. Mary’s Road Alwarpet. Contact 044 42112545 NalandaWay’s Children‘s Festival Art Arattai Aarpattam July 17–31 Inaugural Programme, Arts Carnival, Children’s Film festival, Art competitions, ArtSpeak, Storytelling, Paati Vadai Kaka Nari, Sing Along Museum Theatre, Pantheon Road, Egmore. Contact 8870692733. Photo India 2011 July 22–24, 10 a.m.–7 p.m. International Exhibition for Photo & Video Industry. YMCA Grounds, Anna Salai, Nandanam.

wORKSHOPs & EVENTs Heungbu Nolbu July 7, 7 p.m. July 8, 11 a.m. The Little Festival brings to you an Indo-Korean Children’s Theatre collaboration with InKo Centre and Korea-based Theatre Seoul a play about two brothers based on a Korean folk tale, which echoes in every culture. Museum Theatre, Pantheon Road, Egmore. Contact 9677125738 TROI July 9, 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. The Little Festival brings you Theater Werkstatt Hannover’s musical about Troi, the son of a painter who leaves his father to explore the world. For children aged 3-6 years. Museum Theatre, Pantheon Road, Egmore. Contact 9677125738 The 4th Samsung Women’s International Film Festival July 15–23 InKo Centre brings you the 4th Samsung Women’s International Film with 139 films from 52 countries screened over 8 days. Russian Centre of Science & Culture, 74 Kasturi Ranga Road, Alwarpet Contact 044 24361224

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Gerry Martin’s Reptile Biology Workshop July 4–8 The Gerry Martin Project will be running a 5-daylong workshop here with the objective of inspiring, enabling and training potential herpetologists and conservationists. Madras Crocodile Bank Trust, Post Bag No 4, Mamallapuram 603104 Contact 9972068300 Naturalist Skills and Scrub Jungle Ecology July 14–17 The Gerry Martin Project will be taking a group over to Rom Whitaker’s campsite to run them through the basics in field biology. Contact 9972068300

FOOD & SHOPPING Tuscan Italian cuisine July 1–20, 11 a.m. Indulge in true Tuscan lifestyle at Rhapsody and the art of creating fine Italian cuisine with Chef Dev. Courtyard by Marriot, Anna Salai, Teynampet. Contact 044 66764499 Anupama Bose at Shilpi July All month, 11 a.m.–7 p.m. Jaipur based designer, Anupama Bose presents her flamboyant yet femine collection of anarkalis and leheria saris in kota tussar, silk & chanderi katan. Shilpi, 29, C.P.Ramaswamy Road, Alwarpet Contact 044 24997526

Summer Camp July 10 a.m.–1 p.m. Story time, sing-along, drama and puzzles for 3-to 7-year-olds; Creative writing, chess and arts and crafts for 8-year-olds and above. Includes snacks, certificates and gifts. Hansel & Gretel, 11 Jagadambal Street,T. Nagar. Contact 9840431549 Bollywood Dance and Zumba Classes July–All month Learn a variety of dance styles like Bollywood, Jive, Jazz, Pandemonium, Contemporary, Hip-hop and Freestyle or opt for the fitness Dancercise or Zumba classes. Wired Dance Studio, #8/20, Rutland Gate, 4th Street, Nungambakkam. Contact 9841373663 Chennai Hash House Harriers Run #284, #285 and #286 July 3, 17, 31, 4.30 p.m. Take part in a family hash run every fortnight for an hour, followed by an evening of beer and relaxation. The group meets at 4:30 p.m. for a 5 p.m. start. Contact 9789842220

wORKSHOPs & EVENTs

Payal Jain’s Collection July 6–13 Inspired by all the elements of rich cultural heritage and its age old techniques and style Amethyst, Whites Road, Royapettah. Contact 044 45991630 Palmyra Home July–All month Showcase of simple and elegant furniture and home accessories. Palmyra Home, 25, Kotturpuram Main Road, Kotturpuram. Contact 044 24470438

CALENDAR BENGALURU THEATRE & MUSIC

aRT & EXHIBITION

After-School Workshops July 1–31, 3 p.m.–5 p.m. Chrysalis Hub offers workshops in Taekwondo, Contemporary dance, Spoken English, Chess, Yoga for Kids, Sculpture, Keyboards, Guitar and much more. Chrysalis Hub, 21/5, 2nd Cross, Spencer Road, Frazer Town. Contact 080 41170750

Solo Kuchipudi Recital July 15, 6.30 p.m. Watch unfolding stories, emotions and the techniques of Kuchipudi with Ms. Prateeksha Kashi. Indiranagar Sangeeta Sabha, Purandara Bhavan, 8th Main Road, HAL Second Stage. Contact 080 25215525 Classical Concert July 10, 6 p.m.– 10 p.m. S.Nithyashri is an eminent Carnatic musician and playback singer who has sung film songs in many Indian languages. Tickets priced at Rs. 1000, Rs. 750, Rs. 500 and Rs. 300. Bangalore Gayana Samaja, KR Road, Basavanagudi. Contact 9986984878 “Alwhaa” Play July 2, 7 p.m. – 10 p.m. Sattanathapuram Venkataraman Shekhar is a Tamil playwright and film actor known best for his slapstick humour. Tickets priced at Rs. 1500, Rs. 1000, Rs. 750, Rs. 500, Rs. 300. Chowdiah Memorial Hall, Gayatri Devi Park Extension, 16th Cross, Malleshwaram. Contact 9986984878 EVERGREEN BURMANS in our series ‘Yesterday, Once more’... concerts. July 9, 6.30 p.m.–8.30 p.m. Paying tribute to the 75th Anniversary Year of Sachin Dev Burman’s First Recording as a Music Director (Rajgee - 1936). Tickets at Rs. 1500, Rs. 1000, Rs. 600, Rs. 300. Chowdiah Memorial Hall, Gayatri Devi Park Extension, 16th Cross, Malleshwaram . Contact 9986984878 Light Music (Sugama Sangeet) July 15, All day Light Music (Sugama Sangeet) by Smt. Vimala Srinivasamurthy. Indian Council for Cultural Events, Palace Road, Vasanth Nagar. Contact 080 23462714

wORKSHOPs & EVENTs

Photography by Homai Vyarawalla July 1-8, 10 a.m.–5 p.m. Photography exhibition by the first woman photojournalist of independent India. The exhibition captures the years before and after India gained independence. National Gallery Of Modern Art, No 49, Manikyavel Mansion, Palace Road. Contact 080 22342338 Thinking about Photography Archives July 7, 6.30 p.m. Talk on Thinking about Photography Archives: Exhibitions from the Alkazi Foundation – Rahaab Allana National Gallery Of Modern Art, No 49, Manikyavel Mansion, Palace Road. Contact 080 22342338 Basuki 2011 July 1–2, All Day An exhibition of otherworldly murals that walks walks the razor’s edge between contemporary and folk, the here and now and the far-out. Kynkyny Art Gallery, 33/200, NS Iyengar Street, Nehrunagar, Kumara Park Contact 080 40926202 Cultural Connections July 1–31, 10 a.m.–6 p.m. An exhibition of contemporary Indian painting by Gallerie Third Eye curated by Jasmine Khanna. A group show of paintings from different artists, established and upcoming. Gallery Third Eye 2nd Floor Yemlur Main Road. Contact 080 41640471

wORKSHOPs & EVENTs Photo India July 8–10, All Day More than 100 exhibitors are expected to participate from all over the country and abroad in Photo India and around 6,000 trade visitors will be visiting Palace Grounds, Jayamahal Road.

Anchoring Training Classes July 29, 5.30 p.m.–6.30 p.m. (Every Wednesday) Anchoring Training Classes by Nrityadarpan for ages 7 years and above. Augusta Club, Brigade Gardenia, 7th Phase, J.P Nagar. Contact 9845695015

FOOD & SHOPPING Soup & Stir Fry’s Weekend Lunch July 1–31, All Day Enjoy Soup & Stir Fry’s Weekend Lunch at 24@43. Crowne Plaza, No.43, Phase 1, Electronic city. Contact 080 30030303 Wine Dinners July 25–30, All Day Enjoy romantic lunces and dinners with our fine selection of wines at Burgundy Grills. Crowne Plaza, No.43, Phase 1, Electronic City. Contact 080 30030303 Buffet Lunch July 1–15, All Day International Cuisine on Buffet and A La Carte with Fine Dining, priced at Rs 375 + taxes. Adarsh Hamilton, #2/4, Langford Garden Road, Richmond Town. Contact 080 43595700 City Bar – Evening Munchies July 1–19, 4 a.m.–7 p.m. Choose from a range of delectable sandwiches from cucumber and cheese to chicken tikka. City Bar, UB City, Vittal Mallya Road Contact 080 42773636

culturama | July 2011

CALENDAR DELHI THEATRE & MUSIC

aRT & EXHIBITION

wORKSHOPs & EVENTs

What I Saw July 1–8 A solo exhibition of photographs by Shome Basu combining what he saw and captured during curfew days in Kashmir at Visual Arts Gallery. India Habitat Centre, Lodi Colony, New Delhi. Contact 011 24682001 Myths, Legends and Surreality July 9–15 Visual Arts Gallery brings you a solo exhibition of paintings by Sabya Sachi Ghosh who explores the diversity of Hindu mythology and the amazing stories that each legend tells. India Habitat Centre, Lodi Colony, New Delhi. Contact 011 24682001

Nehru: His Inner Story (Eng/90 min) July 3, 7.30 p.m. Behind the roar of the masses we hear Nehru’s private story in his own words, revealing his own truth. Tickets at Rs. 350, Rs. 250 and Rs. 150 available at the venue Epicentre, Sector 44, Gurgaon. Contact 0124 2715000 Amrita July 9–10, 7.30 p.m. A poet, novelist and short story writer, Amrita Pritam lived life on her own terms and mocked the parochial tendencies of middle class India. Tickets at Rs. 350, Rs. 250 & Rs. 150 available at the venue. Epicentre, Sector 44, Gurgaon. Contact 0124 2715000 One Cool Cat July 24, 4 p.m. and 7 p.m. Ruchika Theatre brings you the hilarious tale of an escaped lioness in Delhi with a cast of 50 children. Tickets priced at Rs. 350, Rs. 250 and Rs. 150 available at the venue. Epicentre, Sector 44, Gurgaon. Contact 0124 2715000

Interdependence & Unity July 9–14 A solo exhibition of Paintings by Sushma Rishi Misra is a salutation to the unity and to the power of women. At the Palm Court Gallery. India Habitat Centre, Lodi Colony, New Delhi. Contact 011 24682001 Magic Flute July 15–19 Open Palm Court Gallery brings a solo exhibition of paintings by Kishore Roy, the theme’s inspiration behind the exhibition is ‘Essence of Love’. Acrylic on Canvas. India Habitat Centre, Lodi Colony, New Delhi.

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Contemporary interactive workshop July 2–31, Saturdays, 10.30 p.m.–1 p.m. Kavita Jaiswal will shape each individual’s work, beginning with sketching, drawing, textures and tonal variation, leading to composition and painting. Epicentre, Sector 44, Gurgaon. Contact 0124 2715000

FOOD & SHOPPING

Soulink July 25–31 Swati Pasari’s solo painting exhibition at the Open Palm Court Gallery explores the connection between human and divine in an attempt to connect with one’s soul and that of the Universe. India Habitat Centre, Lodi Colony, New Delhi Contact 011 24682001

wORKSHOPs & EVENTs Punjabi Food festival July 2 Enjoy the mouth watering spices and flavours of Punjabi cuisine at Axis. Galaxy Hotel, NH-8, Sector 15-II, Gurgaon.

End The Occupation (Hinglish/60mins) July 31 A one-man act by stand-up artist Sanjay Rajoura about the quirks and idiosyncrasies of ordinary people, aspects of our social lives and also a peep into the shady side. Tickets at Rs. 350, Rs. 250 and Rs. 150 available at the venue Epicentre, Sector A, Vasant Kunj, New Delhi. Contact 0124 2715000 Parampara Pravah July 27, 7 p.m. A two-day Kathak Dance Festival, the Parampara Group recital is choreographed by Rani Khanam. Kathak recital by Syed Sallauddin Pasha followed by Sunayana Hazarilal. India Habitat Centre, Lodi Colony, New Delhi. Contact 011 43662024

Zen of Photography by Achal Kumar July 2–31, Every second and fourth Saturday Capture the unnoticed, the unsaid, the untouched, and the unfelt through the lens of your camera, and make a difference! Palm Court Conference Room. India Habitat Centre, Lodi Colony, New Delhi. Contact 011 24682001

Art Workshop July 2–31, Saturday 2.30 p.m.–5 p.m. and Sunday 11.30 a.m.–2 p.m. Take part in Rohit Kumar Sharma’s threemonth workshop at the Palm Court Conference Room; Only for adult participants. India Habitat Centre, Lodi Colony, New Delhi Contact 011 24682001

European Burger Festival July 2 Chow down on a variety of burgers at the European Burger festival at Cocoa. Cocoa by Belgique, Select Citywalk Mall, 37-G, Ground Floor, Press Enclave Road, Saket. Football Mania July 2 Calling all sports addicts! Enjoy evenings of football along with your favourite food and drink. Bennigan’s Grill & Tavern, M-52, M-Block Market, Greater Kailash Part 2.

CALENDAR MUMBAI THEATRE & MUSIC Rebecca July 7, 7 p.m. and 9.30 p.m. Max de Winter returns home with a new young bride where his first wife Rebecca mysteriously passed away. Prithvi Theatre, 20, Janki Kutir, Juhu Church Road. Contact 022 26149546 All About Women July 10, 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. Through these diverse characters and their experiences with regards to love, friendship and even careers, the play tells us all about women. Prithvi Theatre, 20, Janki Kutir, Juhu Church Road. Contact 022 26149546 Classic Milds Season 2 July 20–21, 6 p.m. and 9 p.m. Eminent theatre personalities F. Scott Fitzgerald, Lucille Fletcher, Eugene O’Neill, Neil Simon and Alfred Sutro together bring you a wonderful evening of theatre that goes across the genres of comedy, romance, suspense and tragedy. Prithvi Theatre, 20, Janki Kutir, Juhu Church Road. Contact 022 26149546

aRT & EXHIBITION hardworking, compassionate and merciless, calm and fiery. Jamaat, National House, Tulloch road, Colaba Contact 022 22820718 Group Painting Exhibition July 1–15, 10 a.m.–6.30 p.m. An exhibition of paintings of monks and Buddhas by Rini Dhumal, Datta Bansode and Sujata Achrekar. Galleria Art Gallery, D/4, Poonam Apartment, Dr. Annie Besant Road, Worli. Contact 022 24942005 Fieldnotes: Tomorrow Was Here Yesterday July–All month, 10 a.m.–10:30 a.m. Jitish Kallat describes the politics of space both physically and metaphysically, challenging our perceptions of reality; and what appears to be banal acquires a disturbing hyper reality. Bhau Daji Lad, Museum, 1 A, Rani Baug, Veer Mata Jijbai Bhonsle Udyan, Dr Baba Saheb Ambedkar Marg, Byculla East. Contact 022 2373123

wORKSHOPs & EVENTs

The Feminine Form July 15, 11a.m. – 7p.m. A group exhibition that encapsulates all that makes the feminine form which has inspired artists down the ages. She is gentle and strong, pampered and 38

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known trainer at Women’s Graduates Union every Monday to Friday. Women’s Graduates Union, Sasoon Dock Cross Road, Colaba. Contact 98203 24162 Introduction Flamenco July, 11 a.m.–1 p.m. Flamenco is an art, dance, music, fusion, fashion, sport, therapy and a hobby that harnesses and directs energy into a powerful art. This workshop will study Sevillanas, the first step into Flamenco. The Art Loft, Mehboob Studio, Hill Road, Bandra West. Contact 98191 32958

FOOD & SHOPPING Three weeks of Sundae July 1–6 In every glass of Vikas Bagul’s specials, there is a scoop of history, a measure of technique and a sprinkle of trivia, all explaining the unique character and charm of the quintessential Sundae. 022, Trident, G-Block, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra East, Contact 022 6672 7777. Monsoon Menu July 1–17 Celebrate the rains with Shiro Flavour of the Month. The delicious and elaborate stir fried food is tempered with authentic spices and exotic flavours from Malay, Thai, Chinese and Korean cuisines. Shiro, Bombay Dyeing Mills Compound, Pandurang Bhudhkar Marg, Worli. Contact 022 66511207

Raindrops Festival of Indian Classical Dance July 8 –9, 7.30 p.m. Sam Ved Society dedicates the 21st Raindrops to the memory of Guru Smt. Reba Vidyarthi. Spread across two days, the festival will feature four classical styles and performances by six talented dancers. PL Deshpande Auditorium, Maharashtra Kala Academy, Prabhadevi. Contact 022 24365990

aRT & EXHIBITION

wORKSHOPs & EVENTs

Parasailing July, All month If you’re looking to get your adrenalin pumping, try parasailing this week! H20’s instructors have experience in over 5,000 flights. Cost Rs. 1090. H20, Netaji Subhashchandra Bose Road, Chowpatty. Contact 022 23677546 Capoeira Class July, Children: 6 p.m.–7 p.m., Beginners: 7 p.m.– 8.30 p.m. Monitor Baba and ‘Cordao De Ouro India’, India’s first Capoeira group brings to you a Brazilian form of dance and martial art. S. S. Sahani School, 18th Road, Khar (W). Contact 98690 55371 Aerobic Classes July, 7 a.m.– 8 a.m. and 7p.m.– 8 p.m. Shape up with aerobic classes conducted by well-

Italian Food Festival July 1–17, 4.30 p.m.– 5.30 p.m. The EAT(European Art of Taste) programme educates on the importance of country or region of origin, and the difference it makes to an olive oil, pasta, cheese or wine. With live cooking demos by Chef Angelo Franchini. Godrej Nature Basket, 133, Hill Road, Bandra West. Contact 022 26425050

Photo Feature

Ashok Viswanathan

Khajuraho A forgotten kingdom

Khajurahao is not the most easily accessible place in India. Located about an hour's flight from Varanasi in the state of Madhya Pradesh in central India, lies a hot, barren and dry land with a population of 6,000. The view from the aircraft makes you stop and wonder if it was a mistake to come hereâ&#x20AC;Ś quite the contrary in fact. The temples and the erotic carving unique to the world are some of the finest dating back to the reign of the Chandela emperors. Khajuraho has both Hindu and Jain temples and is a UNESCO world heritage site. The main temples are in the city centre and easily accessible. For the others you need some transportation. The village itself is quite different from what one expects. The streets are spotless, with mud houses neat and clean and painted in bright colours with local vegetable dyes. Doorways of carved wood, barely four feet high, require you to bow down to enter the home. Women shy away from being photographed and hide their faces behind their colourful sarees. The town lives on tourism and visitors are welcomed. The temples were built between 950 and 1050 AD in the Nagara style of architecture at the time of the Chandela dynasty and fell into ruins to be re-discovered in 1838 by an English army engineer and excavated many years later. By then only 22 of the 85 temples survived. The temples are split into three groups â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Western group, eastern group and southern group. The western and eastern groups are the most important. The eastern group belongs to the Jain faith unlike the others, which are Hindu temples. Strangely, no palaces or mansions were ever discovered in the area. Legend has it that the founders of Khajuraho claimed their descent from the moon. Hemavati, the beautiful young daughter of a Brahmin priest, was seduced by the moon god while bathing in the Rati one evening. The moon god told the mother that their son would grow up to found the great Chandela dynasty. Once established, he would build temples that would be the seat of learning for future generations. Chandravarman began the construction of the first of the temples to which successive rulers added more. When the first temple was completed and ready for opening, the ruler was weighed against gold, which was then distributed to the people. His architect was amply rewarded for his work. The underlying theme in Khajurahao is women in various moods, forms and activities. The detailed sculptures and carvings are intricate works of art. To this day, there remains a lot of unanswered questions on why these temples are located where they are and what purpose they serve. For a visitor to India, Khajurahao ranks among one of the must-visit places.

culturama | july 2011

photos: Ashok Viswanathan culturama | July 2011

RISING INDIA

Naresh Iyer

Starry-Eyed Surprise

ALMOST a decade into his crooning career now, Naresh Iyer shares his journey from being a simple boy in Mumbai to an award-winning performer. amreetha janardhan listens in

Although singing was always a big part of his life through his early years, Naresh Iyer never imagined that it would one day turn into his career. Blessed with a great family that spotted his potential and talent, this once a chemical engineer– aspirant and cricket-enthusiast realised his flair for music only at the age of 20. It was then that he started showing a personal interest in the field, enrolling in music classes and performing with a fusion band on his own accord. Naresh’s first big break happened when he took part in Channel V’s hit reality show, Super Singer in 2005. “At that time I was not interested in competitions, as I was busy with my own performances and was also attempting to write Chartered Accountancy examinations. Credit is due to my mother and sister, who pushed me to do this. It has now changed my life!” he avers. Naresh went on to make it into the Top 25 of more than 25,000 participants and it was at this stage that he was discovered by the Oscar-winning musical maestro A. R. Rahman. “When I didn’t make the final cut, Rahman sir told me that I would be getting a call from him over the next week. I thought that maybe this was his way of consoling me for not bagging the win; but true to his word, I got a call within four days.” Rahman gave Naresh a few projects to try out his voice and then opportunities unravelled before him. “It was a pleasant surprise when my debut vocals on Anbe Aaruyire’s Mayilirage and Rang De Basanti’s Roobaroo won me my first awards including the Hub Award, National Film award and the Filmfare award for best Male debut singer.” His collection of awards and accolades has since grown and he has toured the world with Rahman too. His advice to future musical aspirants? “When you really like something, just go with your gut feeling and do not give up. Devotion and dedication cannot be substituted, no matter the level of talent. Nowadays, with the advent of reality shows, people have a great platform to showcase their talent and make use of opportunities. It is imperative that you work for the love of the art and not the free goodies that come along the way. Art will always give its best back to you,” he adds before signing off.

culturama | july 2011

View from the Top

Rajeev Peshawaria

Rajeev Peshawaria, CEO, ICLIF Leadership & Governance Center in Kuala Lumpur and author of Too Many Bosses, Too Few Leaders in an exclusive interaction with Ranjini Manian for Culturama.

Leading the way HOW would you describe the 21st century leader? At the outset, I think it must be noted that leadership development is a 60–90 billion dollar business annually. Yet, in my experience, across the industry, one can hardly find good leaders. Clearly the industry is not delivering, and something is not right. Experts think leadership development is about psychometric tests or that it is learned by copying the behavior of others, or about gaining authority. Unfortunately, none of this is true. A leader is someone who has the habit of creating a better future. From the moment you say you want to create such a future everyone around you tells you how you are going to fail. So what differentiates a leader from others is the energy they bring to stay on the course for the long haul. From Mahatma Gandhi and Nelson Mandela to Martin Luther King, every great leader I am inspired by possessed these qualities. What are the three essential principles that you talk about in your book for leaders? The first task is to ask themselves

culturama | july 2011

what is their purpose and their values. Secondly, a better future cannot be built alone. So a leader must identify and create co-leaders who will help them in the process. And finally, you and your coleaders together energise large numbers of people to create the better future you have envisioned. You talk about the three main pillars of sustainable leadership in an organisation. Can you explain this to us? I call them BBN — the Brains, Bones and the Nerves of an organisation. The Brain is the vision and mission of the company, the Bones, the architecture of the organisation and Nerves, the culture — the unseen fabric which is perhaps the most important part of the organisation. Culture is what people do in an organisation when no one is looking. Who is your favourite business leader? My main inspiration, of course, is Mahatma Gandhi. He’s my standard. Howard Schultz is also one of my favourites, as he built the Starbucks empire based on just the principles

of respect and dignity. Kiran Bedi is a particular favourite — for what she has achieved and what she stands for! Jeff Bezos — because he left a million dollar job on Wall Street to go to the West Coast and start Amazon. His aim was to ensure every book ever published must be accessed by anyone in 60 seconds or less and he’s on his way to achieving this with Kindle. Finally, as a global Indian what is your advice to young Indians looking to become global citizens? What must they preserve and what must be changed? This is a very difficult question to answer, because it is not an answer people will want to listen to. I see a growing sense of arrogance, an attitude that says, ‘We know everything, our time has arrived’. We have been known for long, in world history, as a nation of strong but humble people. Look out for Rajeev’s book tour in multiple cities of India as he has a conversation with Kiran Bedi. Too Many Bosses, Too Few Leaders at www.flipkart.com. ISBN 978-14391-9774-5.

culturama | July 2011

India and I

Marina Marangos

Shimla Special Shimla is as much a reminder of India's colonial past as it is of its growing status as a tourist hub...

Lord Bentinck, in a letter, describes how “Shimla is only four days march from Ludhiana... and proves a very agreeable refuge from the burning plains of Hindoostaun”. Some of the ladies who travelled up there by “jampan,” a covered box slung on poles and carried by bearers, describe the experience as a “jolting back aching abomination”. And yet they endured the many hours and days of exhausting travel from Kolkata because they had discovered a small jewel in the mountains called Shimla. It was reputedly named after Shyamala Devi a reincarnation of the Hindu Goddess Kali, and it nestles in the Himalayan hills at a height of 7,234 ft. on no less than seven hills.

culturama | july 2011

Photo: Philip James Clegg, UK

Photo: Antony Walker

climate pleasing to all. Forest walks abound and for those wishing something more, the Mall offers a pedestrianised area of shops and eateries, with attractions to suit everyone’s tastes. Visitors flock to Shimla in the summer months and a lot of people watching goes on all the time, which is certainly one of my favourite pastimes. The Kalka-Shimla Railway, a UNESCO World Heritage site, which was completed in 1903 and which boasts of 103 tunnels (102 actually as No. 46 apparently is no longer there) is a wonderful reminder of past times. We boarded the train in Shimla on the day that the driver was celebrating his retirement after 31 years of continuous service, so our whole journey was a joyous affair of drums and dancing, commemorative pictures and money garlands at every station down the most scenic mountain sides. We stopped at picturesque stations with names like Summer Hill and Barog, where the cedars give way to the spruces and the pines, the oaks and then the euphorbia. This leisurely journey on what looks like a toy train should not be missed. As you wind your way down the mountain, you can appreciate what was achieved all those years ago and which still lovingly endures.

Lt. Kennedy built the first pukka house in Shimla, which can still be seen today, and, thereafter, in 1864, it became the Raj's summer capital with an abundance of summer private residences, a church, the Mall, the famous central promenade and even a race course. It became a hugely popular resort, and Rudyard Kipling said it had a reputation for “frivolity, gossip and intrigue” boasting of places like Scandal Point where it is rumoured that the Maharaja of Patiala walked with lady friends. Nowadays, it is quite congested but it is a sign of its enduring appeal that thousands flock here to take in the mountain air in the central square while statues of Indira Gandhi and the Mahatma loom over the corn and candy-floss-eating holiday makers. The importance of Shimla can be seen in the grandness of the Vice Regal Lodge, which is currently the Indian Institute of Advanced Study. It is a magnificent building in grey stone with wonderful wood panelling, ballrooms and The writer is Greek-Cypriot and has lived in Delhi for the last two even an indoor tennis court that has now been modified years. to suit the Institute’s needs. It also boasts of the thickest of cedar forests in the Far East and is an absolute haven for fauna and flora, with a

culturama | July 2011

Ind ia Snapshot t h r o u g h Pa s c a l Reynaud's lens

Is India a secular country?

culturama | july 2011

Yes, In India religion and cricket are equally important!

Culture is Refreshing! Find out why?

Offering you a glimpse into the mystical, yet practical culture of this unique country and its people who impact the 21st century, our range of culturally empowering programmes are fun and interactive! tarang An exciting, intriguing and fulfilling Indian experience. Visit the India Immersion Centre at Global Adjustments to sign up.

For details on the various courses and events at the India Immersion Centre. Call us at: +91-44-24617902, Email Aishwerya Narayan at: culturalcourses@globaladjustments.com Global Adjustments Services Pvt. Ltd, 5, 3rd Main Road, R A Puram, Chennai â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 600028 www.globaladjustments.com

Holistic Living

e k n at h e s w a r a n

don't crowd your day

photo: Yana Fetova, Ukraine

The desire to fit too much into a fixed span of time is pervasive, and technology merely adds to the pressure. We are expected to keep up with more and more information at work and at home, and the media obligingly drown us in it. I know people who feel duty bound to read it, too. After all, some of it must be important. We really ought to know whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in it ... 52

culturama | july 2011

Often we cope with this by trying to skim through everything that comes our way. It is a race — like so much else in our lives. But is it a race we want to participate in? When we feel robbed of time already, do we want to spend what little we have on activities that only add to the noise and clutter in the mind? To relieve this pressure, we simply have to stop trying to do everything possible. It is important to realise that we can’t read everything, can’t keep ourselves entertained every available moment, can’t absorb or even catch all the so-called information that is offered to us every day. We have to make choices — which requires an unhurried mind. Make wise choices about what you read. Read only what is necessary or worthwhile. And then take the time to read carefully. I have always loved to read. I grew up appreciating Carlyle’s statement that “a good book is the purest essence of a human soul.” Even as a student I would seek out something truly worth reading and read it slowly, with complete attention, so as to absorb all the author had poured into it. Even today I don’t like background music or a cup of coffee at my side. And when I reach the end of a chapter or a section, I close the book and reflect on what I have read. I would much rather read one good book with concentration and understanding than to skim through a list of best-sellers that will have no effect on my life or my understanding of life. One book read with concentration and reflected upon is worth a hundred flashed through without any absorption at all. Trying to read everything that comes our way is just another aspect of trying to do it all. With television, the equivalent is channel surfing. Once we have learned there is nothing worth watching, why not turn it off? Flitting through fifty or more channels just divides attention even more. And when we can’t get our mind to slow down enough to stay on the same focus, how can we expect to enjoy anything? How can we do a good job at anything we do? Because our lives are so fast, we take a short attention span for granted. A truly creative mind has a very long attention span. When a great painter, musician, or scientist turns to a subject, he or she stays with it not for minutes but for hours, days, and even years, going deeper and deeper. It’s not only with ourselves that we try to squeeze

more and more into our lives. We do so with the lives of those we love as well. Many parents I know spend hours each day ferrying children to after-school activities. I am all for giving children opportunities, but even here we need to be selective — perhaps especially here, because children have little control of their own time. Their time is in our hands. Parents today feel children are deprived if they do not have a variety of activities. But this simply isn’t so. Children are deprived if they don’t have their parents’ love and attention, they are deprived if they don’t have food and fresh air and a good education and time for play, but they really lose very little if they are not kept moving from scout meeting to soccer practice to piano lessons to karate. Even more than adults, children need to be protected from the pressure to hurry. When we fill their days like this, we are only teaching them to hurry, hurry, hurry as we do.

Join us every Saturday India Immersion Centre facilitates a weekly spiritual fellowship group following Easwaran’s Eight Point Programme of Meditation in Chennai. E-mail us for more information at easwaranindia@ gmail.com or call Reema Duseja at 9884127304.

Reprinted with permission from “The Goal of Meditation” (Blue Mountain, Spring 2009). Copyright 2009 by the Blue Mountain Center of Meditation, PO Box 256, Tomales, CA 94971, http://www.easwaran.org Eknath Easwaran (1910–1999) founded the Blue Mountain Center of Meditation in 1961. The Center offers books and retreats based on the eight-point program of passage meditation that Easwaran developed, taught, and practiced. To learn more, visit http://www.easwaran.org

culturama | July 2011

Bursting the Bubble

I a n W at k i n s o n

the great curry Myth From Kashmir to Kanyakumari, there’s something unique about the cuisine that is served in every region of India making use of spices and pulses local to each state. Here’s a sneak-peek at the astounding variety in fare…

PHOTOS: IAN WATKINSON

culturama | july 2011

Outside of India the oft-used generic description of Indian food as ‘curry’ conjures up a highly inaccurate, stereotypical image of red, over-spicy, over-cooked chicken or meat stew. But when we actually move around inside India and experience its vast culinary landscape, we quickly realise that Indian food isn’t that red gravy composed of nuclear grade chilli at all, and the real, wonderful diversity of India’s cuisine starts to unfold; each area of India having developed unique, creative ways of preparing the ingredients grown locally to maximise nutrition and taste. Maybe initially we will notice wheat bread in the north and rice-based ‘tiffin’ in the south and then consider how the tandoor oven and flat breads found their way to the Indian palate from the vast Naan bakeries of Qom. With bread alone the list goes on; naan, roti, puri, bhatura. All delicious accompaniments to a fresh Punjabi style bhindi bhajee (okra), baingan bharta (smoked pureed aubergine), mutter paneer (cheese and peas) or dhal tarkari. Indeed, it is quite possible that the modern pizza has nearly gone full circle; from the same source in the western Asian plains, but heading West maybe via travellers like Marco Polo, to the pizza ovens of Florence and back to the tandoorwallahs of Delhi or the dosa bhavans of Chennai. In fact, we need to add pizza to the bread list too, as that is now as firmly planted in urban Indian cuisine as the erstwhile chapatti. A cuisine that is still evolving, absorbing, expanding, and never static. And climate plays its part too — in the dry heat and humidity of South India, rice digests and metabolises faster than wheat. ‘Wheat is not for heat’ as the saying goes. So to the South and Southeast we find textured layers, green wavy terraced layers not of wheat, as in the Punjab, but mile after mile of rice paddy. The ingenuity of cooks in utilising wheat in the North is equally mirrored using rice in the South, with understanding its varieties, textures and subtle flavours a science in itself; long, short, fat, thin… rice for different uses, to create different dishes, for flour, batter, to steam, fry, ghee roast or just as a plain grain canvas that perfectly soaks up the sour spice of a rasam or the hint of tartness in curd with lime pickle and salt. From two basic ingredients — black or green gram dhal, and rice — the ingenious vegetarian cooks of the south created a whole range of tasty vegetarian dishes such as idli, dosa, upma, pongal, uttapam and vada. Couple these staples with light vegetable dishes, chutneys and sauces made with fresh coconut, green chilli, lime, roasted dhal, tamarind and curry leaf and a whole world of taste opens up on the tongue. Absolutely ingenious. Not to forget that for maybe millennia the Tamils have pre-cooked unhusked rice prior to drying and only then husking the grain, to force the B vitamins into the kernel. That takes some beating in understanding food science even by contemporary thinking.

In Karnataka, the staple in much of the state is ragi and jowar, forms of millet that are highly nutritious and again form the basis for a whole panoply of tasty dishes. The list goes on, and on. The Portuguese brought the chilli to India from South America in the 16th century, alongside potatoes, tomatoes, maize and cashew during the great Columbian Exchange. So if you do feel the food here is too chilli hot and your mouth is on fire, perhaps it is better to silently curse Vasco Da Gama than the poor waiter who served you. In reality, most Indian dishes are delicately balanced spice-wise, and in the South indigenous black pepper is often used for a more subtle heat rather than incendiary chilli. It is actually untrue that Indian people like overspicy food, subtlety is the key. Northern sauces are the assimilation of Turkish, Persian and Mughul cuisine, rich with cream, paneer and aromatic spice. South east, in Bengal, we find a delicious but an utterly different, less fussy style of cooking; often with fish, but always in some way utilising mustard seed and its aromatic oil, a definitive ingredient of Bengali cooking. Maybe a little green chilli is used, often simply eaten in its green waxiness on a side plate, with a squeeze of lime, some salt and a slice of sweet onion. Or simple sag, cooked with Bengal bay leaf, then tempered with ‘panch phoran’ - a mix of fenugreek, mustard, fennel, nigella seed and cumin, spluttered to release the flavours in hot mustard oil. Delicious, nutritious and so simple to make. If you want more heat in the South, more spicy rich sauces, then try Chettinad cuisine — a rival from the south to compare with the northern Mughlai style dishes. We could move on to sweets and fruits… but there lies a whole different thread. So let’s dive in, soak up those flavours whether with bread or with rice, dig a little deeper into the nature of the ingredients, then maybe we can find more refined and respectful ways to describe the infinitely ingenious and varied cuisines of India than the ubiquitous word ‘curry’. Believe me, it’s long overdue.

The writer is British and lives in Chennai. culturama | July 2011

Portrait of India Saraswati — Veena Vahini is said to be the goddess of knowledge, music and arts. In this painting, Goddess Saraswati is portrayed with the Veena, a musical instrument that represents her perfection of the arts and sciences. Her love for the rhythm of music is symbolic of emotions and feelings expressed through speech or music. Turn to Page 59 for more on the Indian way of learning.

Courtesy: ‘Art Heritage of India: A Collector’s Special’, published by ‘L&T - ECC & ECC Recreation Club’. 56

culturama | july 2011

Interpretations

t e a m c u lt u r a m a

Flower handy Power art

Though most henna designs are drawn freehand, beginners should use a sample design as reference. Try to find skin scribes (a marker which, when pasted on the skin, leaves a purple design) that you can trace upon. Lightly squeeze your mehendi tube and apply the henna paste. If the opening at the end of your applicator is small, the lines will be thinner. Even if is not a smooth line or it breaks, do not worry, just repeat over the empty spaces. Once you’ve applied your design, allow the paste to dry. This can take around 30 minutes. As the paste dries, it will shrink and might fall off leaving gaps in your design. Simply reapply the henna to fill in any gaps and allow it to dry again. To intensify the colour, you should cure your henna. Make a mixture of sugar and lemon juice. Swab a piece of cotton in the liquid and dab over your dried henna design. Once completely coated, let it dry for a minimum of 5 hours. This helps better colour absorption. Once well dried, scrape the dried paste using a butter knife. After you have scraped off most of it, take a wet cloth and wipe off the rest. You will find a pale orange design on your body and the colour will darken over the next 24 hours. Washing with water doesn’t fix the colour. So stay dry for 2 hours minimum post scraping off.

What You Need THE lotus is one of the most ancient and popular icons of Indian culture. In Hindu mythology it is regarded as a symbol of purity and ultimate beauty. Accordingly, anything pretty and chaste is compared to this flower. Lotus motifs are often found in temple carvings, old palaces and ancient architecture as it is regarded as a sign of royalty. No wonder, it is regarded as the country’s national flower. LOTUS TRUTHS The lotus grows in the slushy muddy waters of ponds and rises above the surface to bloom into a beautiful flower. Drawing from this characteristic, it is said that untouched by the impurity, man must also rise above his miseries and remain pure whatever the circumstances are. Lotus petals are so even that when water falls on them it simply rolls off. Hindu scriptures preach that sorrow and misfortune too must roll off our backs as water rolls off the lotus. Prime Hindu Gods are in some way associated with the lotus. For instance, Laksmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity, is depicted as seated on a lotus. Again, Lord Brahma, the creator of the universe, is said to have emerged from a lotus. Perhaps it is from here that one of the basic positions of Yoga — the seated pose Padmasana (Padma meaning lotus and asana meaning position) originated.

2 mehendi cones/tubes 2 tsp sugar Juice of one lemon A piece of cotton

FYI: What Indians can read when they see mehendi – if the design is on your palms, you attended a wedding or ceremony; if it is elbow deep, then you are the bride!

culturama | July 2011

Name Sake

S Nair

mantra The Sanskrit word mantra comes from the root manas (mind) and the suffix –trai (to cross over or to free from). According to the Vedas, everything comes into being through the power of speech. “In the beginning was The Word….” starts The New Testament Gospel of John. Similarly, Buddhist techniques see the mantra as necessary for spiritual advancement. Faith based or not, it is a tool to free one from the vagaries of the mind, and with repetition, gives the mind something to hold on to when nervous or agitated. Most mantras follow the written slokas (verses), taking the form of phrases or single words. Hinduism’s basic mantra – Aum, which forms the prefix and suffix in prayers, is based on the philosophy that all things have a name and form. Being energy-based sounds, mantras expand the mind, dominating smaller vibrations to produce a state where the vibration is in tune with the energy and spiritual – the mantra goes on in the mind without one even realising it. Indian tradition has a spiritual rite of passage called guru deeksha or master’s initiation of the disciple. Knowing the student’s penchant for a particular name and form, the master is able to pick one in sync with his psyche. Using a rudraksha (Indian rosary with special beads), the spiritual seeker repeats the mantra till the tool digs into the consciousness, and no more beads or counting is needed. When waiting for the computer to boot up, waiting in a queue or travelling (not when driving), the use of the mental mantra brings the mind back to behave in a quiet way. Yet another of India’s gifts to the world!

culturama | july 2011

Windows to the world

photo: Roseli, Brazil

photo: Darren Burnham, UK

Inner Space

Jali or jaali is a term for a perforated stone or latticed screen that filters light. Used in Islamic and Indian architecture, it consisted of ornamental patterns constructed using calligraphy and geometry. Early work carved into stone gave way to more elegant work by the Mughals, with inlay work on marble and use of semiprecious stones. Jali patterns were created using a code, the repetition mirroring Islamic architecture’s geometric structure. Interestingly, jalis create a visual barrier between the inside and the outside, a reason for their use in women’s chambers. Perforated walls as room enclosures are found in traditional architecture in the Indian subcontinent, from Kerala in the south to Nepal in the Himalayas, and are seen in Indian temples too. When glass windows were not even a figment of the voyeuristic imagination, these walls, built by placing bricks with gaps either horizontally or vertically, reduced the glare inside. They saved cost, with less bricks and quantity of mortar used. The way a jali wall lets in air is unparalleled in construction options, controlling air movement by positioning openings in opposite directions. With time, it made way for operable shuttered windows. Mushrooming of compact city residential neighbourhoods and fears about security led to jalis falling out of favour. The credit for popularising jali walls in modern architecture, especially in Kerala, goes to the late Laurie Baker, a world-renowned architect.

Festivals of India

July

Celebrating Diversity

Rath Yatra This car show with a twist may not showcase German-makes packed with hi-torque engines, but the 45-foot tall majestic chariots in Puri sure do steal the show! Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims gather to witness the annual journey of Lord Jagannath, Lord Balarama and their sister Subhadra to their aunt Gundicha’s temple 2 km away. The three towering, temple-like chariots are pulled through the streets of Puri by pilgrims and priests, symbolising the journey from dark to light. The festival, which lasts nine days, was unique to the town of Puri until 1968 since when it has been replicated in other countries with significant Indian populations. The English word juggernaut, meaning an unstoppable force, owes its origins to this festival.

Guru Purnima Guru means the remover of darkness. Guru also means “heavy”, so a guru is one who is so weighty in his own ideals that he is unshakable. He is also one who removes the darkness of ignorance. Personal relationships are of great significance to Indians and often relationships at home are considered the most important ones with the mother, father and family. This is further carried on to another place where we spend most of the first two decades of our lives — school or the ashram as it is called in Sanskrit. Gurus (teachers) help inspire and guide us in choosing the right paths for our lives and have been held in great esteem for centuries in India. 'Vyas Purnima' honours the great sage Vyasa, who edited the four vedas (sacred text) and wrote the 18 puranas (epics). This festival honours all teachers and gurus. On this day, disciples worship and pay respect to their Guru or spiritual teacher, making an offering of fruits and flowers and performing a puja. Some devout disciples even fast on this day.

culturama | July 2011

Tales of India

s u m at h i s u d h a k a r

The Light of Faith

Three devotees bound by their common love for the Lord

Illustration: M R Rajan

Poigai, Pey and Bhutam were three saintly devotees of Lord Vishnu. Although they lived in towns that were close to one another, they neither knew nor had heard of each other. Rapt in their devotion and love for the Lord, they lived a simple, austere life of worship and prayer. One year, during a festival at Thirukovilur (thiru-ko-vill-oor), a temple town in Tamil Nadu, Pey, Poigai and Bhutam set out from their respective towns to participate in the festival and witness the grand spectacle at the temple. They travelled, each separately, engrossed in thoughts of the Lord. It was late at night. Dark clouds gathered in the sky and hid the moon and stars from view. Soon it began raining heavily. Poigai went to a dark, lonely hut nearby and knocked. The door opened to reveal the householder standing in a narrow dark passage that led to the living space of the hut. 60

culturama | july 2011

“It is raining heavily. Can you please give me shelter?” asked Poigai. “You are welcome,” said the man. “This passage is small, but enough for one man to lie down.” Poigai entered and the man went back into the hut. As Poigai lay on the cold floor, he heard a knock on the door. It was Bhutam, but Poigai did not know him. “I seek shelter from the rain,” said Bhutam to Poigai. “There is no other house around.” Poigai ushered him in, saying, “There is only enough room for one man to lie down but two can sit. Come in and sit with me.” So Bhutam joined Poigai and the two sat in the dark, singing praises of the Lord. A little later, there was another knock on the door. Bhutam opened the door and found another young saint standing outside. It was Pey. “Is there a place for me in this hut?” he asked. “You are welcome,” said Bhutam, letting him in. “There is room for two to sit but three to stand.” Pey, Bhutam and Poigai stood shoulder-to-shoulder in the little dark passageway, perfectly happy and content, immersed in their thoughts of the Lord. In a little while, they felt another presence that seemed to jostle for space with the three of them. “Who could it be?” asked Poigai. “Let me light a lamp with my love for the Lord,” said Bhutam. “Let me light a fire with my knowledge of the Supreme,” said Poigai. A flame seared out of their intense prayer, and in its flickering light, Pey saw the four-armed, dark-complexioned resplendent Lord Vishnu. “It is our Lord,” he cried, tears coursing down his cheeks. The devotees bowed in humility and love. The Lord could not stay away from the company of his three selfless devotees. Poigai, Pey and Bhutam are names of spirits in the Tamil language. As many mythological stories teach us, true devotion is inclusive of other seekers treating all as kindred spirits. We are meant to accomodate and carry all to the goal of a common good in spirituality in India.This is why Hinduism is probably so accepting of all other faiths.

Office

Yoga

MONITOR YOUR

TENSION BELIEVE IT OR NOT, YOUR DESKTOP COMPUTER CAN ACTUALLY HELP YOU RELAX. TRY THIS

Version 1 Outstretch your arms and place both hands gently on top of your computer monitor. (Press very little weight on the monitor.) Remain sitting straight while slowly letting your body drop forward from the waist. Lower your head down but keep your back straight. Take your time to relax and breathe.

Version 2 Place your left hand on top of the computer monitor. Lift your right arm and stretch it back. Keep your head facing forward and maintain an upright posture. Feel the stretch in your right arm and shoulder blade. When ready, switch sides.

Courtesy: Darrin Zeer “America’s relaxation expert!” –CNNwww.HappyYoga.ME

culturama | July 2011

iseries

i read

Book A.R. Rahman: The Spirit of Music

Film Earth (Also called 1947 Earth)

Author Nasreen Munni Kabir

Director Deepa Mehta

Price ` 495

Language Hindi

This book records the musical journey of A.R. Rahman, one of the most rigorous composers within the romantic style of music in the world, through intimate conversations with Nasreen Munni Kabir, over a period of four years. In this short book, Rahman unconsciously unearths a storehouse of information on techniques of composing, on choices of musical genre, on the demands of the story, and on the rule of contrasting emotions. Giving illustrations and examples that speak volumes of the spirit behind his work, he illuminates how he is able to glorify the national origins and traditions, from which he takes inspiration, while still experimenting with and progressing from those traditions to create a new music with great richness and complexity. Western music provides him with the context and categories through which he explores all traditions of thought. He also speaks with passion about the KM Music Conservatory where he hopes to turn out complete musicians. While film helps us to experience this living music through imagery and figures of speech — of simile and metaphor — Rahman seeks to enrich that experience. In his own words, “A song must come to you like the breeze.” Rahman’s music does not by itself pick out images of the world that can stir the sensibility; a creative vision is at work in the selection of perspective, in the composition and articulation of the film, and in the rendering of a music that has striking affinity with the procedures of lyricism and poetry. While Rahman’s position is unassailable as world ‘numero uno,’ and is indeed a remarkable phenomenon, he acknowledges with gratitude and humility the presence of a great number of other inspirational musicians who have helped to lead the colossal spread of Indian ethos and sensibility around the globe. The conversations witness the beginnings of modern Indianology in music — a term to describe unprecedented scientific exploration and objectification of musical styles. The CD that comes with the book has several beautiful recordings too.

Find the book at www.flipkart.com

culturama | july 2011

i see

— By Jyoti Nair

The second film in Deepa Mehta's Elements trilogy, 1947 (the other two being Fire and Water), Earth is based on Bapsi Sidhwa's novel, Ice Candy Man. The movie vividly captures the bestial violence that erupted during the partition of India and Pakistan as witnessed by an eight year old polioafflicted Parsi girl who lives in Lahore, Pakistan. Lenny (Maia Sethna) is privy to the budding romance between her ayah, Shanta (Nandita Das) and a masseur, Hasan (Rahul Khanna). Lenny is also aware that Dil Nawaz (Aamir Khan), the smoothtalking Ice Candy Man, has a growing obsession for Shanta. Lenny and the Ice Candy Man become unwilling voyeurs to this unfolding love story. As the dark clouds of the partition gather, the animal in each man, like the lion that Lenny fears, is unleashed. Dil Nawaz proposes marriage to Shanta and says in a sombre foreshadowing, that it is only she who can keep his inner animal in check. In a scene that best captures the horrific violence during the partition, Dil Nawaz awaits the arrival of a train from Gurdaspur carrying his sisters. The train finally arrives 12 hours later laden with mutilated bodies of passengers. Dil Nawaz eavesdrops on a conversation between Shanta and Hasan, where the masseur shares his plans to flee to Amritsar in India. The next day, Hasan's body is found in a gunny sack. Lenny is deceived by Dil Nawaz into revealing Shanta's whereabouts and along with a group of marauders, he abducts Shanta. Unlike the novel, the movie offers no explanation about Shanta's fate and it is presumed Lenny lives with the guilt of having sealed the fate of her ayah. The end titles of the film capture the immensity of the partition — ‘Over one million people were killed in India's division. Seven million Muslims and five million Hindus and Sikhs were uprooted in the largest and most terrible exchange of population in history.’ — By Saritha Rao

Find the DVD at www.landmarkonthnet.com

iseries

i ask

Practical Magic Most superstitions in India stem from logical reasoning and an attempt to teach science to the community by incorporating fear in its minds. In those days, superstitions were not just about throwing salt over your shoulder but were precautions against avoiding accidents or mishaps that happen due to absentmindedness or carelessness. Don’t cut your nails at night! Why not? Cutting one's nails after sunset has been considered highly inauspicious, and many who have grown up in India have been subject to recurrent warnings from elders that trimming your nails at night invokes evil spirits. However, there is more logic to this than there is voodoo; this superstition probably originated in the days before electricity, when using nail cutters or other sharp objects was dangerous as the user could cut himself or herself in the process. Why should I pay heed to the cawing of a crow? Though in many countries the cawing of a crow is a bad omen, Indians often associate the crow with good fortune. On auspicious or festive days when puja is performed at home, crows are fed the delicious prasad first in the belief that they are connected to our forefathers and ancestral lineage. It is also believed that

the cawing of a crow at the entrance of one’s house is a sign that visitors can be expected soon. Don’t sweep your house at night! Why not? Another old wives’ tale that still has many followers today is that sweeping the house at night brings misfortune and fewer blessings to its residents. It is also said to indicate the sweeping away of Goddess Lakshmi out of the house. A literal interpretation of this situation again is that sweeping in the dark could result in valuables or money being swept away! What is the strange lime-chilli contraption hanging by your door? A common sight seen outside new business ventures, houses and sometimes even vehicles is a whole lime strung together with several green chillies. This nimboo-mirchi talisman is meant to ward off the dhrishti (evil eye) cast by onlookers, neighbours or enemies, and revokes any jealousy or ill wishes that come its way. Nimbu mirchi is a reminder that sweet moments are bound to follow sour moments in life. . - By Amreetha Janardhan

culturama | July 2011

iseries

i like

5 things I like about India Michael Carter

2 The people

I’ve found in the four-and-a-half years we’ve lived in India, people are very warm and generous with their time. The true values of building friendship I think pre-occupies a lot of cultural engagement. People do really want to get to know visitors and expats. In business, I’ve found people have this really passionate “can do” attitude, which is energising.

3 The food

The diversity of Indian cuisine makes this country truly a gourmet paradise with many tantalising epicurean delights — much to the worry of ones waistline ,though. I think the food of India reflects the richness, passion and creativity of India’s vast cultural fabric. I particularly love the masala dosas. What a great contribution to the world of fast food gourmet style!

4 Holiday destinations in India

1 Travelling in the car

Yes I know we often crib about traffic jams etc, however, when sitting in a car one can take in the many wonderful street sights which really do make time pass and are very interesting to an expat’s gaze. Whether it is watching cars jostle for a lane or watching the corner chaiwalla serve chai or a cow calmly negotiating the congested traffic. Back home, sitting in a car is a somewhat sterile, uneventful experience.

As diverse as the cuisine of India are,the many beautiful locations to holiday, from world class five star indulgence to old world charm of yesteryear, to suit all tastes and budgets in India has so many contrasting locations to experience, as the TV campaign says “Incredible India”.

5 Colours.

I reckon India is like a painter’s pallete, because there is a richness of colour and everything around us in India. Whether it is contemporary Indian oil paintings — women dressed in vibrant colourful sari’s or the colourful array of chutneys arranged at a dinner setting — colour is everywhere.

Michael Carter is the newly appointed Consul Commercial based in Chennai for the Australian Trade Commission (known as Austrade). He is responsible for promoting trade and investment activities between Australia and southern India.

culturama | july 2011

Space & The City

Global Adjustments

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• • • •

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culturama | july 2011

Space & The City

Global Adjustments Easing your passage to and from India

Owners, list your property with us for MNC clients. Renters and buyers, we are your one-stop shop for all real estate needs.

15 years of bringing the world to India

Chennai Brand New Apartment OMR • 1904 Sq.ft./ 3 Bedrooms • Fully furnished/ Air-conditioned/ Modular Kitchen • 100% power back-up • Swimming pool, Gym, Squash, Indoor games, Party hall & Mini Theatre • Close to IT companies

Beautiful House Nungambakkam

Beautiful House Chetpet

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• 5000 sqft, 4 bedrooms • Servant’s quarters • Fully furnished/ 100% power back up • Terrace with party unit

Mylapore First Floor of an Independent House for Rent • Fully furnished and air-conditioned, newly renovated 1st floor (includingTerrace) of an independent house for rent. • Built-up area: 3000 sq. ft. • Bedrooms: 3, Bathrooms: 3.5 • Flooring: marble and wood • 2 Kitchens (wet and dry) – wood and glass cabinetry • Space for 2 cars • House includes – home theater, large garden, indoor and outdoor bar units, 2 balconies

Brand New Apartment OMR • 2000 sqft, 3 bedrooms • Fully air-conditioned/Modular kitchen Power back-up • Swimming pool/gym/club facility and children play area • Close to Siruseri IP Park and other software companies • Padma Seshadri Bala Bhavan School within the campus • Suitable for walk to the office concept.

Client Speak

Integrated Township Brand New Apartment for Rent • 1750 sq ft/3BR • Fully airconditioned • Gym, parking and generator • Apartment on the 15th floor • Close to Mahindra City & Ford

Anke Meijer of Price Water House Coopers, whom we helped find a home in Chennai, has this to say about our services, “We are very happy with the house viewing and the apartments that were shown to us. The responsiveness of our consultant was excellent, which made it possible to find a home quite quickly.”

For more such properties, call Global Adjustments at 91 44 24617902/9551695968 (Chennai), or e-mail: realty@globaladjustments.com Please note that any changes to the information above are done at the property owner’s sole discretion. Global Adjustments assumes no responsibility for such changes.

culturama | july 2011

RNI NO.TNENG/2010/32752

REGISTERED No. TN/CC(S) Dn./396/10-12