March 2022 Global Traveler

Page 21

WINE & SPIRITS

Sipping in Seattle Uncork and unwind at the region’s wineries and tasting rooms. BY KELLY MAGYARICS

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ashington wine is somewhat of an anomaly. Much of the industry is centered in the Columbia Valley, where the rain shadow that falls east of the Cascade Mountains blesses the region with a warm, sunny, dry climate where Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Riesling thrive. Yet many of the state’s wineries and tasting rooms lie closer to the coast — good news for oenophiles visiting Seattle. Thompson Seattle makes a smart base from which to plot your swirling and sipping. Across from Pike Place Market, the boutique hotel offers jaw-dropping views of Puget Sound, especially from the rooftop bar The Nest. The closest wine region to the Emerald City is in Woodinville, a 30-minute drive north — perfect for a daytrip. Chateau Ste. Michelle first planted its flag here; it’s joined today by 130-plus wineries and tasting rooms across four districts: Downtown, Hollywood, Warehouse and West Valley. If you linger overnight, rooms at the luxury Willows Lodge feature gas fireplaces, soaking tubs and private patios overlooking lush gardens. Next door is Sparkman Cellars, launched in 2004 by Chris and Kelly Sparkman. Right before the pandemic they relocated to this site, the former home of Red Hook Brewery, allowing them to expand production and visitors to spread out over bites and flights. Top expressions include the citrusy, mineral-driven 2021 Pearl Sauvignon Blanc; the bright and fresh 2021 This Old Porch rosé; and the 2019 Wonderland Grenache, described as Washington’s Pinot Noir for its Burgundian funk. Winemaker Linn Scott also has fun with Portuguese varietals including Touriga Nacional and a Port-style dessert wine. Nearby, Matthews Winery gleans inspiration from Bordeaux, apparent in the easy-drinking, Merlot-dominant 2018 Cuvée and the structured 2019 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, with whiffs of dried strawberries and winter spices. Visitors to the airy tasting room can enjoy a seated-style tasting of any four wines, and staff may invite guests to pick produce and flowers from the organic farm in season. In the industrial Warehouse District, affable owner Lisa

Warr-King Parker, who pursued her second act after 20 years in the high-tech marketing world, oversees the Warr-King Wines’ cozy tasting room. While her winery focuses on terroir-driven offerings, her philosophy is far from serious or esoteric. Just like a mischievous kid, she believes, wine has life. Crisp green apple and kiwi shine through in the unoaked 2020 Leilani Chardonnay; the 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon hails from Red Mountain, a vineyard boasting acid-setting cool nights; and the 2018 Tenacity presents a lively, fruity Bordeaux blend with a purpose, donating some proceeds to a STEM program for girls. Don’t miss the vending machine that doles out cheese and charcuterie instead of candy. Back in Seattle, overlooking Elliott Bay, marvel at the local producers you now recognize on the wine list at AQUA by El Gaucho. Sip a flute of Yellowhawk Rosé Sparkling while perusing the menu of Niman Ranch-raised beef and Pacific Northwest seafood prepared by executive chef Maggie Trujillo. Fire & Vine Rosé from Walla Walla matches the pomegranate saké mignonette with local raw oysters, while fragrant Thai mussels and clams complement the aromatic Long Shadows Poet’s Leap Riesling. And alongside tender grilled sea bass, the restrained DeLille Cellars D2 offers delicious proof you should always bet on Washington red.

Sparkling Style: Champagne by the fire at AQUA by El Gaucho PHOTO: © VISIT SEATTLE

MARCH 2022 globaltravelerusa.com

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