WESTERN WALL

Journey to Jerusalem

People from around the world gather to pray at the Western Wall.

BY RINA NEHDAR

Prayer Plaza:

(Left to right) Western Wall panorama, and placing a note in the Wall

PHOTOS: © JASMINA | DREAMSTIME.COM, © SHOTSMAKER | DREAMSTIME.COM T he day we visited, we each brought our biggest worry, written on a scrap of paper, meticulously folded into the smallest possible contortion, ready to slip into a crack of the Western Wall. Feeling giddy, we descended a limestone staircase into the rectangular Prayer Plaza.

On this afternoon before Shabbat, which began at sundown, a stream of people churned through the men’s and women’s areas. As directed by Jewish Orthodox tradition, genders are separated by a wooden mechitza partition to obscure the view of the opposite sex.

On their side, the men faced the Wall, praying. Some held books, others held Torah scrolls. A spinning circle of dancing men — most with payot (sidelocks) and wearing a skullcap, fedora or fur-lined hat (shtreimel) — filled the plaza with song and celebration, commemorating a 13-year-old boy’s bar mitzvah. While his mother and other female relations stood on chairs peeking over the mechitza, their beloved boy was called to the Torah as a man.

On the women’s side, I stood with old and new friends with whom I had traveled on a pilgrimage tour of Israel called Momentum. We slowly advanced toward the rocks stacked in rectangles and squares, sized according to the era they were added to the wall. Some women, once their turn at the Wall arrived, practically collapsed with emotional relief at being heard by the One who could finally bring them peace. Some cried. Some scanned the limestone for enough space to fit a piece of their hearts into a crack along the Wall, which already held pieces of millions of other hearts.

Known in Hebrew as Ha-Kotel Ha-Maʿ aravi, the Western Wall is such a rock star that just saying “Kotel” is enough for everyone to know what you’re talking about. It came from humbler beginnings, though, as one of the support walls King Herod added during an expansion of the Second Temple around 15 B.C.

But let’s back up. King Solomon built the First Temple on Temple Mount around 960 B.C. The Jewish people thrived for almost 400 years until the

Babylonians destroyed the temple in 586 B.C. and exiled them from Jerusalem.

When Persian ruler Cyrus the Great beat back the Babylonians 47 years later, the Jewish people returned and quickly constructed the less opulent Second Temple in 516 B.C. About 480 years later, Herod the Great extended the platform of Temple Mount to hold the buildings he added to the courtyard and built four retaining walls to hold everything in place. After the Romans destroyed Jerusalem and the temple in A.D. 70 as retribution for a Jewish uprising, only the Kotel remained.

“The Kotel is the holiest, most important and most misunderstood place in the world,” said Patrick Amar, guide, Israel Executive Touring Center. “To truly understand the Kotel, you have to do the tunnel tour.”

The Kotel once rose almost 200 feet. Today it stands about 62 feet above the courtyard, but underground spaces extend another 43 feet deep. An entrance on the northern side of Prayer Plaza leads to the tunnel, which heads north along the 1,600-foot-long wall.

We descended into the lit-up tunnel at night, past layers of stone marking centuries of construction and passing under the Muslim Quarter above. My fingers absently traced the cool rock wall, smoothed from the touch of centuries of other explorers. Water flowed down walls into ancient cisterns. Stacks of rocks stood in piles in various stages of archaeological discovery.

We saw men, many in Orthodox dress, praying at the Wall in an underground synagogue beneath Wilson’s Arch, the mood somber. The women’s section is on a raised platform, and chairs and prayer books are available.

This underground section lies close to the location of the Holy of Holies, the innermost sanctuary of the First Temple, thought to be the intersection of Heaven and Earth. It contained the Foundation Stone, which Torah scholars believe to be the rock from which the world was created and the rock upon which Abraham almost sacrificed his son, Isaac. The Ark of the Covenant rested on the Foundation Stone and contained the stone scrolls of The Ten Commandments, Aaron’s rod and a jar of manna. Upon the solid gold cover of the Ark rested two cherubim, between which, the Torah says, God dwelled.

The Ark and its contents disappeared before the Babylonians sacked the First Temple. However, the Second Temple still held the Foundation Stone. For Muslims, the Foundation Stone marks where Mohammed ascended to Heaven, and its significance caused centuries of religious conflict over Temple Mount, which the Muslims call Haram al-Sharif.

The gilded Dome of the Rock, behind the Western Wall, has covered the Foundation Stone since an Umayyad caliph built it in A.D. 691. Only Muslims may enter the dome and see the Foundation Stone. However, everyone may visit Temple Mount; they just can’t pray there.

The Western Wall and tunnel remain the location closest to the Holy of Holies where Jews are allowed to pray. But there’s hope. “In the Old City, the Christians have the Church of the Sepulchre, the Muslims have the Al Aqsa Mosque, and the Jews have a broken wall that’s waiting to be rebuilt,” said Amar, referring to a Third Temple prophesied to be constructed during the coming Messianic Age, when peace will reign over the world and humanity will finally come together as one. Maybe that’s the prayer we should be tucking into God’s ear.

INFO TO GO

Tel Aviv’s Ben Gurion International Airport lies less than an hour by car from Jerusalem. You do not need reservations to visit the Western Wall; however, tunnel tours book far in advance. Two multilingual tunnel tours are available. One visits the original tunnel, and the Arches Tour explores recently discovered sites. Dress modestly to visit holy sites; men should cover their heads, and women should wear long sleeves and pants or skirts that cover their knees.

A Warm Welcome

Florida is among the U.S. states promoting accessible activities for travelers of all abilities. BY BARBARA AND JIM TWARDOWSKI

Americans who have disabilities spent $58.7 billion on travel during 2018 and 2019. According to Eric Lipp, executive director, Open Doors Organization, this figure could potentially be doubled, considering many of these individuals travel with one or more companions.

One in four adults in the United States lives with a disability, with the most prevalent type affecting mobility. As the population ages, two out of five people 65 and older have a functional limitation.

A lucrative and loyal market, the disability community searches for activities and destinations that can accommodate their needs. Florida ranks as one of the most popular getaway destinations in the country and welcomes travelers with disabilities.

VISIT FLORIDA created a video series featuring locals who have disabilities engaging with nature — often in unexpected ways. A man paralyzed by a random act of violence discovers an incredible sense of freedom when he learns to scuba dive at Panama City Beach. Another wheelchair user who lives in Cedar Key finds the year-round warm climate ideal for boating and fishing. When he wants to cool off, he swims at Fanning Springs State Park.

The “Limitless Florida” videos run on visitflorida.com within an accessibility hub highlighting dozens of things visitors can do.

Potential visitors find state parks with wheelchair-accessible trails, museums with listening devices, accessible beaches, outings for children who have autism spectrum disorder, a Braille trail through a historic city, and so much more.

Florida destinations continually improve or add new accessible features. Silver Springs State Park added a wheelchair-accessible glass-bottom boat to its fleet last year. Since the 1870s, these boats have wowed visitors. J.N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge on Sanibel Island installed a spotting scope for colorblind visitors at the Wildlife Drive observation tower. Martin County offers lightweight, all-terrain beach wheelchairs at each guarded beach location — just ask the lifeguard for assistance.

“Access to information for travelers with disabilities can be challenging to find and misleading, which at times leads to a big gap between the plan and the experience,” said Staci Mellman, chief marketing officer, VISIT FLORIDA. “We hope that through our disability inclusion efforts we are able to inspire other destinations to build and promote accessible travel experiences, too, which will make the world a better place for travelers of all abilities.”

‘WE HOPE THAT THROUGH OUR DISABILITY INCLUSION EFFORTS WE ARE ABLE TO INSPIRE OTHER DESTINATIONS TO BUILD AND PROMOTE ACCESSIBLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES, TOO, WHICH WILL MAKE THE WORLD A BETTER PLACE FOR TRAVELERS OF ALL ABILITIES.’

— STACI MELLMAN, CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER, VISIT FLORIDA.

Out in Nature:

Wheelchairaccessible trail (left), and glassbottom boat (right)

PHOTOS: © VISIT FLORIDA

Prepare for Takeoff

U.S. airports welcome new and updated terminals. BY MARY MELNICK

With travel demands and technology constantly changing, airports strive to keep up by consistently updating and improving facilities. Some are building new terminals to serve the increasing numbers of travelers.

At Los Angeles International Airport, keep an eye on the progress of Delta Air Lines’ new terminal. The Delta Sky Way will open in phases throughout the rest of 2022 and into early 2023. The Sky Way features new facilities for Delta travelers, with premium amenities to include the largest Delta Sky Club anywhere. Travelers will also appreciate the new Delta One check-in experience, a consolidated security checkpoint and a connector inside security between terminals 2 and 3 and Tom Bradley International Terminal.

In New York, LaGuardia Airport gears up for its final 10 gates to open in the Western Concourse of the new Terminal B. The project includes a new pedestrian bridge to connect the main headhouse to the Western Concourse.

Set to debut in 2023, the new single terminal at Kansas City International Airport will feature 39 new gates, dining amenities, shops and much more. Travelers will no longer need to shuttle from one terminal to another to make connecting flights. The new amenities include a convenient customer service help desk, fast-casual and upscale dining and cocktail services, local and national retailers, airfield views, live music, inclusive play areas, rooms for nursing mothers, flexibility for future upgrades and more.

Newark’s Liberty International Airport recently added a new flagship, Terminal A, to replace the current terminal. At nearly 1 million square feet, the new facility will serve airlines including Air Canada, Alaska Airlines, American Airlines and JetBlue, plus select United Airlines flights. The terminal will house a total of 33 gates, with 21 already operating and the remaining 12 opening in the fall. Newark will also soon house the world’s largest American Express Centurion Lounge, located on the top floor of a three-story expansion in the new terminal.

Seattle-Tacoma International Airport also boasts major changes. As Port of Seattle wraps up finishing touches, the new International Arrivals Facility, set to open later this year, will nearly double the number of gates handling international flights, boost passenger capacity and increase the size and number of baggage claim carousels.

Up in the Air:

Chalchiutlicue sculptures by Marela Zacarías at Seattle-Tacoma International Airport’s International Arrivals Facility

PHOTO: © PORT OF SEATTLE

Gentle Journeys

Among a rush of return visitors, Iceland’s ecotourism practices take on vital significance. BY DEBRA BOKUR

Mystical Landscape:

Sunset over Kirkjufellsfoss waterfall and Kirkjufell mountain

PHOTO: © MIROSLAV LISKA | DREAMSTIME.COM I n 1937 poet W.H. Auden published Letters from Iceland, a booklength travel poem written with his traveling companion, Irish poet Louis MacNeice. The destination chronicled in this slim volume is both familiar and completely alien to today’s traveler to Iceland; yet, as in Auden’s day, the overwhelming experience of this enigmatic island nation remains indelibly linked to its powerful — and fragile — natural environment.

Reopened borders resulted in flocks of curious travelers booking trips to discover Iceland’s singular wonders. The largest transportation delivery system in and out of this island nation remains Icelandair. A sustainable journey begins with the airline’s ambitious commitment to carbon emissions reductions, with strong policies that include fleet renewal, operational efficiencies and carbon offsetting programs.

In addition to offering travel itineraries and insider information to help make the most of a journey, Visit Iceland’s website provides valuable guidance for protecting this singular environment. Conservation laws prohibit damaging delicate moss and lava formations which may take hundreds of years to recover.

The best way to see Iceland, according to Ryan Connolly, co-owner and marketing manager, Hidden Iceland (an environmentally responsible outfitter), is with a local guide.

“Our guides have grown up watching the environment change due to climate change,” said Connolly, “from the glaciers retreating, to the drop in puffin numbers, to the change in weather patterns. Gaining that understanding and seeing it for yourself will really change your outlook on how we treat nature. Aside from that, offsetting all your emissions — or using a guiding company like Hidden Iceland who will do it as part of your trip — is a good step to reducing your impact. They will understand the best places to visit without harming the environment and will add a whole extra level of insight into your trip.”

While there, quality and environmental labels to look for include the Vakinn label, the Icelandic Tourist Board’s official quality and environmental certification program identifying a product or service provider as having met sustainability, environmental or health standards. Other labels include International Organization for Standardization certifications, EarthCheck, Fairtrade, the EU Ecolabel and Green Key.

Weird and Wonderful

Plan your travel around the world’s most interesting sports festivals. BY JACK GUY

Uncommon Feats!:

Archery on horseback at the World Nomad Games (top), and Naadam Festival Mongolian wrestling match (bottom)

PHOTOS: © KAIRI AUN | DREAMSTIME .COM, © PIUS LEE | DREAMSTIME.COM I n late September the spectacular World Nomad Games comes to İznik in western Turkey, offering the chance to watch traditional nomad sports such as horseback archery, wrestling, and hunting with eagles. Shortly after, Oct. 5–9, mountain bike fans descend on Cairns, Australia, for the latest installment of Crankworx World Tour. After starting as an annual event in Whistler, Canada, the organizers took the show on the road in recent years, allowing people around the world to watch and compete in mountain bike races.

Argentina might be best known for tango and steak, but it also hosts the world’s most famous polo competition, the Argentine Open Polo Championship, welcoming top players to Buenos Aires to play in front of a glamorous crowd in November. Sports fans who want to travel in December can fly to Dubai for the Al Dhafra Festival to watch dromedaries controlled by robotic jockeys compete in races across the desert sands.

If you fancy getting away in the new year, you could find your sporting fix at the Australian Open tennis tournament in Melbourne in mid-January, but the National Penny Farthing Championship looks far more interesting. Not only will you travel to the island of Tasmania, off the south coast of mainland Australia, but you’ll also get to watch riders race Victorian-era bicycles with a large front wheel.

In April it’s time for Nakizumo Festival in Tokyo, Japan, in which sumo wrestlers compete to make babies cry; alternatively, catch the end of the European snow season at the Snowbombing sport and music festival in Austria. Then, in July, the Festival of San Fermín, also known as the Running of the Bulls, lets brave — or foolish — members of the public try to avoid the sharp horns of six Spanish fighting bulls on the streets of Pamplona. If audience participation doesn’t appeal, you might prefer Naadam Festival in Mongolia, where people travel from across the country to compete in the traditional sports of horse racing, archery and wrestling.

The Cruising Issue

Sail away with us in September as we present our 2022 Cruising Issue. We’ll explore the world’s newest cruise ships, around-the-world cruises, cruising the Amazon, sports-themed cruises and more. Find out how cruise lines offset carbon emissions and see what’s in store for cruising in 2023.

PHOTO: © HELENA BILKOVA | DREAMSTIME.COM