July 2019 Global Traveler by Global Traveler

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July 2019

CALL OF THE DESERT

Immerse in the wonders of Wadi Rumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vast, dramatic landscape. p. 72

ANCHORAGE p. 62 BERLIN p. 68 CHICAGO p. 52 JEJU ISLAND p. 76 NAIROBI p. 69 SINGAPORE p. 66 TORONTO p. 64

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letter from the editor ®

EDITORIAL Editor in Chief KIMBERLY KROL kim.krol@globaltravelerusa.com

HERE’S TO SUMMER! I HAD TO CHUCKLE to myself as I read a section of Kelly Magyarics’s article on best U.S. beach towns. Turn to page 36. Spoiler alert: The article includes Wildwood, situated in the same area of New Jersey as the beaches I grew up visiting in the summertime. And her “Goin’ down the shore” and “Watch the tram car, please” observations are spot on. That’s what we said — and still say — in our region of the country, especially when someone asks what you’re doing for a summer holiday. I’m going down the shore. And when you spend the evenings “walking the boards,” you will find the “Watch the tram car” phrase repeating itself ON THE BEACH: in your head. Kimberly Krol with her mother in Anguilla The beach and summer are synonymous PHOTO: © KIMBERLY KROL and, for many, nostalgic. That’s why our July issue seemed like the perfect time to remind people of the many amazing beaches right here in the United States. I could taste the funnel cake and salt air as I remembered cool summer nights in a sweatshirt strolling the boardwalk in Ocean City, New Jersey, with my parents and, later, friends. I’ve hit beaches up and down the coast and around the globe, including one in Anguilla in March with my mom, but the beaches of Southern Jersey will always feel like home to me, and summer never feels complete without a trip “down the shore.” In this issue, we also announce the winners of the 2019 The Trazees, the awards voted on by the readers of our sister web publication, trazeetravel.com. Trazee Travel is dedicated to the 25- to 40-yearold traveler, and its readers deemed several travel company favorites tops for this demographic. Learn more on page 40. We’re excited to celebrate the winners next month at Chicago’s newest hot spot on the Gold Coast, Claridge House. In addition to its enviable location, Claridge House boasts a homeaway-from-home vibe that is so important to any type of traveler. Please join us Aug. 6 for a night of celebration in a chic atmosphere in one of my favorite cities. Of course, we’re not just feeling the sand between our toes in this issue — we’re taking you around the globe. For more on Chicago, check out Holly Riddle’s report on the city’s recent developments on page 52. Then join us in Anchorage, Toronto, Singapore, Berlin, Nairobi, Wadi Rum and Jeju Island. Next month, we’ll whet your appetite with our Food & Wine issue. Til then, we’ll see you down the shore!

Vice President/Digital Director KATIE SKRZEK katie.skrzek@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Editor JANICE HECHT jan.hecht@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor/Copy Editor PATRICIA VANIKIOTIS patty.vanikiotis@globaltravelerusa.com Associate Editor ANGELIQUE PLATAS angelique.platas@globaltravelerusa.com Assistant Editor ERICH J. MARTIN erich.martin@globaltravelerusa.com News Editor ALLIE MOORE allie.moore@globaltravelerusa.com Editor at Large HOLLY RIDDLE holly.riddle@globaltravelerusa.com Intern ANDREW MELNICK intern@globaltravelerusa.com ART Art Director TRACEY CULLEN tracey.cullen@globaltravelerusa.com Staff Photographer CHRISTOPHER P. OTTAUNICK christopher@globaltravelerusa.com Special Events Video Editor VANCE PICCIN

COLUMNISTS

WRITERS

KRISTY ALPERT MARGARET BACKENHEIMER J.D. BROWN MARK CHESNUT EUNICE FRIED MARY B. GALLAGHER JACK GUY ALLIE MOORE

ARI BENDERSKY ELLEN CLARK ELYSE GLICKMAN MEGAN HILL SHARON KING HOGE KELLY MAGYARICS RICHARD NEWTON IRENE RAWLINGS HOLLY RIDDLE

ete bios, For compl a.com travelerus al ob gl t visi

CIRCULATION Specialists JOHN WROBLEWSKI, LOUIE ATSAVES Managers JAYHAWK EVANS, MARK P. FORD, TERESA JACKSON, ANTHONY “SCRAPS” DIMERA Circulation Director MICHELE SHANNON Circulation Manager ANNA PUDZIANOWSKI Research Consultant SHARON STERNE

care Health s in a m re ge’s Anchora t es rg la -sector private , er y o pl em ng the generati number largest r jobs fo w ne f o an a th re o m Learn decade. bout a re o m ge Anchora 62. on page

ADVISORY BOARD Chairman MICHAEL DONAHUE, COO MICHAEL KIELY, President CARLOS CAPPUCCIO, Executive Vice President GARY OSWALD, Deputy Vice President Aviation EDWARD JEFFERSON, Deputy Vice President Accommodations STEPHEN DOHERTY, Deputy Director Destinations WAYNE TALLMAN, Vice President Special Events/Photography CHRISTOPHER OTTAUNICK, Secretary MARK LANE, Research Director FRANK LOVERME, Treasurer KEVIN RYAN, Director of Technology BOB HANCOCK, Director of Digital Advancement JARED TORGAN GENERAL COUNSEL THOMAS F. GOLDMAN

KIMBERLY KROL, EDITOR IN CHIEF

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JULY 2019

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letter from the publisher ® ®

ONWARD AND UPWARD

PROUD MOMENT:

Francis at Temple University graduation with Laura Gallagher PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

I HOPE YOU ENJOY this issue, which I am sure finds you wrapping up some interesting and relaxing trips around the world. Besides the July issue of Global Traveler, this month we publish the 16th annual Global City Guidebook. The special edition will arrive separately and offer a snapshot of well-known destinations and a few up-and-coming places in an easy, one-per-page format. The Global City Guidebook makes an excellent desk reference; our research indicates it has a long shelf life as

readers refer to it frequently prior to trips. Like last year, we will also distribute the GCGB at the Global Business Travel Association show, held this year in Chicago. We will celebrate the success of the book and the magazine at the convention on Aug. 6, where we will also award the winners of The Trazees, voted on by the readers of GT’s sister platform, trazeetravel.com. I hope you can join us in the festivities! I am pleased to report Global Traveler continued to see increases through the first half of 2019. We are looking forward to the second half of the year and our upcoming special editions, such as the annual Class Act and The Trazee Book. The GT Tested Reader Survey awards will follow closely, held Dec. 11 at The Peninsula Beverly Hills. I received a lot of recommendations for a proposed trip this October to celebrate my birthday, everything from visiting Portugal to luxury glamping to a dude ranch. Cruises ranked high, including Crystal River Cruises; AmaWaterways (Danube cruise); Uniworld Boutique River Cruise Collection; a Galápagos luxury yacht cruise; and, of course, Cunard’s 14-day Mediterranean “Voyage du Vin” aboard Queen Victoria, sailing in September with wine tasting lecture experts on board and the opportunity to graduate from Cunard Wine Academy courses. But then there’s the Belmond Grand Hibernian or Royal Scotsman luxury train journey with lots of golf opportunities! I am still reviewing, so keep the ideas coming. Thanks for your continued support of Global Traveler (and all of our brands), and enjoy the balance of the summer!

ADVERTISING Publisher/CEO FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER tel 267 364 5811 ext 200 | fran.gallagher@globaltravelerusa.com Senior Vice President RICHARD T. EVANS tel 267 364 5811 ext 203 | dick.evans@globaltravelerusa.com Executive Vice President, Associate Publisher CARLY ALLEN tel 267 495 6287 | carly.allen@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive STEPHANIE MAKOWSKI tel 267 364 5811 ext 211 | stephanie.makowski@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive CHRISTOPHER SAGER tel 267 364 5811 ext 204 | chris.sager@globaltravelerusa.com Account Executive BRENDAN EGAN 267 697 2330 | brendan.egan@globaltravelerusa.com Production & Advertising Coordinator YASSER OGANDO tel 267 884 1650 | yasser.ogando@globaltravelerusa.com

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July 2019

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FEATURES

BUSINESS DESTINATIONS

36 Hit the Beach Head to the best U.S. beach towns this summer for the ultimate shore vacation.

52 Destination One: Chicago Chicago boasts the best of everything for business and leisure travelers.

40 The Trazees Awards 2019 Global Traveler honors the winners in the world of millennial travel.

62 Stateside: Anchorage Enticing changes lure business and leisure visitors to Alaska’s center of commerce.

48 Meet in Minsk The Belarus city emerges as an inviting venue for corporate events.

64 9–5: Toronto Toronto serves a blend of arts, food and culture from around the world. 66 After 5: Singapore From happy hour to the wee hours, Singapore sparkles with creative cocktail and fashion hot spots.

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ON THE COVER globaltravelerusa.com | $4.99

July 2019

CALL OF THE DESERT

Immerse in the wonders of Wadi Rum’s vast, dramatic landscape. p. 72

ANCHORAGE p. 62 BERLIN p. 68 CHICAGO p. 52 JEJU ISLAND p. 76 NAIROBI p. 69 SINGAPORE p. 66 TORONTO p. 64

COVER PHOTO: WADI RUM PHOTO: © LRUET - DREAMSTIME.COM

contents

July 2019 24

69 76

LIFESTYLE

CONNECTIONS

LEISURE DESTINATIONS

22 Technology 24 Wine & Spirits 25 Wealth 26 Tours 28 Spas 30 Golf 32 Chefs 34 Cruising 79 LGBTQ+ 81 Health

10 Mail Call 13 News 16 Reviews 19 One on One American Express 20 One on One Seoul Tourism Organization 80 Airport Update 82 Preview

68 Neighborhoods: Berlin Reunited for 30 years, Berlin celebrates distinct local individuality. 69 Friends & Family: Nairobi Bring the kids to Nairobi and make memories to last a lifetime. 72 Bucket List: Wadi Rum Immerse in the wonders of Wadi Rum’s vast, dramatic landscape. 76 Kicking Back: Jeju Island Romance to relaxation to rustic nature, Jeju Island surprises at every turn.

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FX E X P R E S S

P U B L I C AT I O N S , I N C .

Global Traveler and Globility are registered trademarks of Global Traveler magazine and of its parent company, FXExpress Publications, Inc. Global Traveler is not affiliated with any commercial interests within the travel industry. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, nor can the publisher accept responsibility for errors or omissions. The magazine cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited articles, photographs or other material. AAM member 04-0361-2. AAM audited circulation 111,517. ISSN 1551-7187 © 2019 FXExpress Publications, Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part of text, photographs or illustrations without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited.

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mail call Q&A WITH CHRIS SAGER, ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Q&A WITH CARLY ALLEN, EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT,

In our May issue, Chris Sager discussed the challenges of international travel, including dealing with conversion fees, rates and doing a bit of homework on the currency before traveling. This raised a few questions: How do you typically handle the cash process of international travel? Do you withdraw your money beforehand, use only a credit/ debit card or rely on ATMs upon arrival? A few readers wrote in to answer:

BETHANY WILSON, via email I always use my credit cards while traveling internationally. There’s no exchange fee, and I usually get points. BILL LAWSON, via email I’ve tried it all, really. I’ve taken out cash at the ATM in an international destination, I’ve brought cash along [and] used credit cards I knew were accepted and without international fees. It’s generally the easiest to use my credit card, but it’s good to have cash as backup. ROBERT FLACK, via email

My mind is swimming with ideas for a fun weekend solo trip before summer is out, one where I don’t have to rely on someone else’s schedule but just pack up and go while using my miles! A weekend in Maui to explore the Road to Hana? Or try a wellness retreat in Sedona inspired by last month’s issue? Have you traveled solo? What are your favorite solo trip destinations? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com

LETTER TO THE EDITOR In our May issue, we discussed the comfort and convenience of flying by private jet and which companies to consider in our “Fly Like a VIP” Tours column, written by Kristy Alpert. One reader wrote in with thoughts: Each month I look forward to reading Global Traveler while I am in an airport lounge. It highlights many of the places I have traveled and brings to light experiences I might like to add to my must-do list. As I read “Fly Like a VIP” by Kristy Alpert, I was surprised to note Seattle-based TCS World Travel missing from your list of companies offering private jet travel. As a past traveler of TCS, I feel it is, and has been, the gold standard in the private jet industry for the past 25 years. It offers both all-inclusive jet excursions with set itineraries around the globe and

personalized, custom trips for individuals, families or friends. Whether traveling solo or with 50 travelers, my experience is TCS is on top of its game. Just when you think TCS cannot do it better, it manages to pull out all the stops. Please add TCS World Travel to your VIP private jet travel list. LAINE SILVERFIELD, via email

BOEING 737 MAX In our May 29 eFlyer USA newsletter, we covered Boeing’s completion of a 737 software fix. After two deadly crashes over several months, 737 MAX aircraft were grounded for software investigation. Boeing claims the software problems that apparently caused the crashes have been fixed. We asked our readers: Will you fly on the 737 MAX planes once the grounding order is lifted? A few readers wrote in with responses:

Regarding your question as to whether I will fly on the 737 Max: I average four flights per week and hundreds of thousands of miles annually on American Airlines. I am going to give it a good six months before I decide to book a flight on the 737 Max. I have also spoken with several senior-level flight attendants who tell me they are going to refuse to fly on the MAX until they are confident it is safe. PHIL LEAMON, via email Regarding if we will fly the 737 MAX once the grounding order is lifted, the question is, really, do we trust Boeing if it says it is fixed? My answer is no, based on its behavior during the launch of the 737 MAX and after the two accidents. HENRIK ÅSLAND, New York

CONTACT GT Do you have a story to share? Thoughts on a recent GT article? Email us: letters@globaltravelerusa.com or write to Letters to the Editor, 310 Floral Vale Blvd., Yardley, PA 19067 Letters must be written exclusively to Global Traveler and must include your full name, mailing address and contact phone number. Letters become the property of Global Traveler. We cannot respond to every letter. Global Traveler reserves the right to edit letters to the editor for length and clarity. The opinions expressed in Mail Call are not necessarily those of Global Traveler, and Global Traveler cannot accept responsibility for errors or omissions.

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I tend to go to my bank and take out cash before I travel, just to have some on me, but I usually rely on my credit cards throughout the trip.

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mail call

9–5 | CAPE TOWN

Captivating Cape Town This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

passed through in 2016 — its busiest year yet. Arranging a car service in advance proves the best way to get into town. Services like Centurion Tours and Citi Hopper greet you at the terminal and run about 270–360 South African rand ($20–27), depending on the number of passengers in the vehicle. Uber is also thriving in Cape Town, so consider hailing a ride with the app if your smartphone works in South Africa. The Uber X service costs R146–189 ($11–15), while the more luxurious Uber Black should cost about R249–324 ($18–25). The 20- to 30-minute ride (depending on traffic) along the highway takes you past some of South Africa’s infamous townships. Although the center of Cape Town is home to fewer than 435,000, the metro area boasts a population of more than 3.7 million. Many live in these makeshift towns consisting of informal housing, a remnant from the days of apartheid, prohibiting non-whites from living in the city center. Cape Town, though, is quickly moving on from those unfortunate days. As you approach the downtown area, you’ll immediately recognize the faces of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu currently installed on the façade of the Civic Centre. On a clear day, you’ll also spot the flat-topped Table Mountain in the background. Suitable hotels are scattered around the Central Business District and along the waterfront, but the 12-story Townhouse Hotel offers an excellent option for business travelers with its downtown location near City Hall and South Africa’s Houses of Parliament. It boasts seven meeting rooms that accommodate up to 425 people, with its largest holding 300. While your hotel likely includes full breakfast, you might want to organize a morning meeting offsite. Taxis don’t roam Cape Town’s streets, however, so use Uber or ask the concierge to arrange transportation for you. Hemelhuijs, a chic café by Chef Jacques

globaltravelerusa.com JANUARY 2018

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In our April 30 eFlyer USA newsletter, we reported on United’s new fleet livery and recent marketing moves. The airline unveiled the new look with three shades of blue and a new take on the brand’s logo. A couple of readers wrote in with thoughts on the airline: UAL’s looking and operating more like Continental every day. Many of its management people have a CAL background. I checked United’s schedule, and neither the 300ER nor the 787 has a scheduled flight out of Chicago O’Hare. American Airlines is using newer 787s on the majority of its European and Asian flights from ORD. United used to be known as Chicago’s hometown airline, but, sadly, that may be no more. MICHAEL GREEN, via email

GET BLOGGING In our daily blog section on globaltraveler usa.com, our staff share stories from their personal travels, business trips, work functions, fun events and more. An avid reader wrote in with a comment after reading a few posts.

RYAN K. BIDDULPH, via email

Updated daily, our blogs offer readers an inside look at the lives and travels of the GT staff. Last month we featured blogs about everything from riding Amtrak’s Auto Train to dining out in Lima, Peru.

THE AWARD GOES TO …

globaltravelerusa.com/blog

Keep up the awesome work on your blog. Keep on inspiring.

In a special-edition Leisure Lifestyle Awards e-blast released May 17, we showcased Cunard’s win for Best Large-Ship Cruise Line. An avid reader wrote in to the publisher with compliments: Leisure Lifestyle Awards 2019. Wow, the awards look really good! And interesting new stuff. S.T.S., via email

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WHAT’S HAPPENING ON GT BLOGS?

PARTICIPATE IN VOTING Visit our website to vote for your favorites in the 2019 GT Tested Reader Survey.

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WHO WORE IT BEST?

Visit our website to access past and present articles, reports, guides, hot travel links and deals and video interviews, as well as forms for subscribing to the magazine and our eFlyer newsletters.

news Airbnb Debuts Digital Programming

In an effort to stay ahead of its competition, Airbnb is venturing into the limelight by launching its own digital programming. The home-sharing site announced it will produce originalcontent shows, one of which is called Home and is already in production to air on Apple’s soon-to-launch streaming service. The program will showcase unique homes and include interviews with the hosts/owners. Along with TV, Airbnb also developed and produced a documentary film that will debut at the Tribeca Film Festival. The film, called Gay Chorus Deep South, follows the San Francisco Gay Men’s Chorus as it tours the Southeast. With this foray into digital media, Airbnb continues to build as an all-encompassing travel platform. airbnb.com

WHEN YOU’LL NEED A REAL ID TO FLY If you haven’t visited the DMV lately to apply for or renew a driver’s license, you may not be aware of the new national law stating that, in slightly more than a year, Americans will no longer be able to use this form of identification to travel within the United States. By October 2020 Americans will need to obtain a Real ID in order to board planes for domestic flights, according to a mandate from the Transportation Security Administration. Those with passports can also continue to use their passports as their international travel document for flights. Americans who received new licenses within the past few years may already have the Real ID form of the license, as select DMVs across the country have begun to issue these new IDs in compliance with the TSA regulation. The Real ID Act passed in 2005 as a response to the terrorist attacks in September 2001, but by 2015 only half of the states had begun to implement Real IDs into their license-issuing systems. tsa.gov

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Marriott Plans World’s Tallest Modular Hotel

Marriott — the world’s largest hotel chain — set out to build the world’s tallest modular hotel. The hotel will be fully assembled in a Polish factory, shipped to New York and erected in Manhattan’s NoMad (Madison Square North) neighborhood. The building will rise 26 stories, feature 168 guestrooms and will reportedly be erected in just 90 days, with an anticipated opening date sometime in 2020. The project, in collaboration with Concord Hospitality, will open under Marriott’s AC Hotels brand. Modular hotels, wherein rooms and other building features are constructed off-site in factories, help companies save time on construction site work and enable a quicker opening date for guests. However, such projects typically come with larger upfront costs and may even require loans. Another benefit for hotel guests besides a quicker opening date is quieter rooms, thanks to better insulated walls, as rooms are constructed individually rather than in conjunction with other rooms. marriott.com

JULY 2019

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news

JetBlue’s Plans After London

Flying from the United States to South Africa can involve double-digit hours of flight time and two or even three layovers, but United Airlines plans to launch a new non-stop route between the two countries to make the journey a breeze. The airline submitted an application to the U.S. Department of Transportation that, if approved, would allow it to begin a new direct route between Newark Liberty International Airport and Cape Town International Airport, making it the only airline to offer non-stop service between these two destinations. Once approved, the flight is scheduled to debut Dec. 15 and will operate three times per week.

Google Maps’ New Hotel Search Filters

The recent closure of İstanbul’s Atatürk International Airport allowed İstanbul’s new airport to begin its massive expansion plans. Located 22 miles north of central İstanbul, the new airport opened in October 2018, with three additional opening phases to be complete by 2027. With a current capacity of 90 million passengers per year in its first phase and with only two runways, the capacity will increase enormously. When completed in eight years, the airport will boast a capacity of 200 million passengers per year, making it eligible for the title of world’s busiest airport. The finished airport will stretch across 29.5 square miles — larger than Manhattan — and feature six runways, with a total construction cost of $12 billion.

In its quest to become a “super app,” Google Maps constantly searches for ways to up its game in the travel industry and beyond. One recent addition to its search features includes filters to help travelers narrow the display of hotels on the map in any given location. Once a map section has been selected and hotels are indicated on the map, users can narrow their search by amenities such as free WiFi, gym access, swimming pools, pet-friendly, free breakfasts and more. To use this feature in an internet browser, users can click “more options” to view the drop-down menu of amenities, but to use this feature in the app on iOS or Android devices, users must use the search function to specify the location and the desired amenity.

igairport.com

google.com/maps

united.com

Future Growth at İstanbul’s New Airport

jetblue.com

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Coming Soon: Non-Stop U.S.–Cape Town Flights

JetBlue recently announced its intention to stretch its wings beyond North America by launching flights across the pond to London. Upon completing this feat, however, the low-cost airline has greater ambitions for its future expansion. After conquering U.K. destinations like London from either New York (JFK) or Boston (BOS), JetBlue hopes to reach other European hot spots like Amsterdam and Paris. JetBlue’s first obstacle, however, is to figure out where it can acquire a slot at one of London’s three major airports, where space is expensive and hard to come by. JetBlue announced flights to London will begin in 2021 with 13 of its Airbus A321 planes.

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Book Online with AA’s Business Rewards

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Businesses that book flights for their employees with American Airlines can now book using rewards on the airline’s revamped American Airlines Business Extra website. Booking on this platform is available for businesses that agreed on a rate with AA, and users can now use the Business Extra Awards tab to book specific flights under this program. Travel managers who want to see if their employees’ flights qualify for Business Extra Awards can simply enter the flight details and their free membership code. Points from this program can be used for flights, first- and business-class upgrades, AAdvantage Gold status or Admirals Club membership.

Southwest’s new Rapid Rewards Priority Card brings a slew of new benefits to Southwest’s loyal passengers. From Chase, the new credit card shares a few features with the Southwest

aa.com/i18n/aadvantage-program/aadvantageprogram.jsp

Changes to United MileagePlus

business.aa.com

Southwest’s New Rapid Rewards Card

Members of American Airlines’ AAdvantage program and the Radisson Rewards program can no longer earn and redeem points between these two companies. Before the severing of this partnership, members of both programs could earn 250 to 500 miles for each qualifying stay at participating Radisson properties, which only amounted to approximately $7. With the dissolution of this partnership, AAdvantage members can still transfer points to seven hotel partners and can earn miles for stays with 18 hotel partners.

Rapid Rewards Premier card, such as two points per dollar spent on Southwest flights; two points per dollar spent on hotel and rental car partners; one point per dollar spent on all other purchases; no foreign transaction fees; and the ability to earn tier-qualifying points, which can help in achieving higher status. Benefits beyond these include 40,000 points after spending $1,000 within the first three months; 7,500 bonus points after one year of membership; four upgraded boardings per year; a $75 annual credit for flights with Southwest; and 20 percent cash back on in-flight purchases. southwest.com

Beginning Nov. 15, United Airlines will introduce dynamic pricing as part of its rewards program, MileagePlus. Currently, United rewards members can consult an awards chart listing the number of miles required to book any given flight. But starting this fall, United will switch to a dynamic pricing model which will incorporate numerous factors into the mileage allotment for a specific flight, mostly based on demand. Therefore, if a lot of seats remain on a particular flight, the number of miles needed to book a seat may be lower; but if there are fewer seats and the flight occurs during a busy time of year, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, rewards members will notice the mileage required is much higher. United joins Delta Air Lines in this model of miles redemption, with American Airlines as the only airline left of the big three that has not switched to dynamic pricing. united.com

JULY 2019

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GT tested

THE LANGHAM, CHICAGO Reviewed by Kimberly Krol

Guest Quarters: The Langham, Chicago is located in a building designed by legendary architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, who died before construction on the building began, and décor details throughout the public and private spaces pay homage to him. Particularly attention-grabbing is the lobby; for Club-level guests who check in in the lounge, make it a point to visit this area for the visuals. My deluxe premier room boasted floor-to-ceiling views of the city and a bed so comfortable, I swear I was asleep as soon as my head hit the pillow. I also loved the

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tucked-away but spacious closet/dressing area to the right upon entering and directly across a short hallway from the bathroom. Other features of the room included complimentary WiFi, a 55-inch television, an oversized desk, a spacious rainfall shower and deep soaking tub and Chuan Spa bath amenities. My only regret? One night wasn’t enough! Services/Amenities: We enjoyed lunch on the afternoon of our departure at Travelle, located on the hotel’s second floor and serving seasonal American cuisine. On my list for my next visit to The Langham, Chicago: the signature The Langham Afternoon Tea with Wedgwood, held in Pavilion. The hotel’s more than 2,200-square-foot wellequipped fitness center additionally offers a group class studio and schedule. Chuan Spa is open daily, 9 a.m.–9 p.m. Club-level guests enjoy a variety of perks: a breakfast buffet, all-day refreshments, evening cocktails and canapés; two-hour use of The Langham Club Boardroom; personalized butler service; complimentary pressing of three garments; complimentary in-town car service within two miles of the hotel (based on availability); and more. It’s worth it.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Access to the Club Lounge greatly enhanced our stay; the staff in the lounge was truly phenomenal. ◆ You cannot beat The Langham, Chicago’s enviable location along the Chicago River and at the foot of the Magnificent Mile. We were able to commute anywhere in the city with ease. ◆ My sweet tooth was more than satisfied by the amazing pastries on offer in the Club Lounge. ◆ An events team is on hand to assist in planning any type of social function in the hotel’s variety of meeting spaces. THE LANGHAM, CHICAGO 330 N. Wabash Ave. Chicago, IL 60611 tel 312 923 9988 langhamhotels.com

PHOTOS: © THE LANGHAM, CHICAGO

Arrival/Check-In: In years past, I’ve taken a hard hat tour of The Langham, Chicago, while it was still under construction, and I’ve indulged at the on-site Chuan Spa, but until this past winter, I’d never had the pleasure of staying overnight in the luxury hotel. Needless to say, I was eager for the opportunity on a recent one-night business trip to Chicago. Two colleagues and I departed Philadelphia early, arriving in Chicago before the workday and well before check-in time; however, as we had Club-level access, we made ourselves comfortable in the Club Lounge, enjoying some nibbles and doing some work before departing for a day of meetings. When we returned later that day, our bags had been moved to our guestrooms.

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ALITALIA | MAGNIFICA CLASS

Washington, D.C. (IAD) to Rome (FCO)

Reviewed by Chris Sager

PHOTOS: © ALITALIA

On the Ground: I got on the road from Philadelphia early enough to arrive at IAD two hours prior to my flight. Having never flown out of Dulles International Airport before, I was interested to see how busy it is compared to the surrounding D.C. traffic on a Sunday morning. I was pleasantly surprised to find the airport was busy but organized, making for smooth sailing at the Alitalia check-in counter. The Alitalia staff immediately greeted me with a smile, seamlessly completed the check-in process and allowed me to journey to my terminal with some time to spare. Pre-Flight: Upon boarding I was immediately impressed with the Magnifica layout that allowed everyone to maneuver their carry-on bags quickly and efficiently into the overhead bins. After a few minutes I found my aisle seat and sat down to get ready for the nine-hour flight to Rome. Alitalia won Best Business-Class Seat Design in our 2018 GT Tested Reader Survey awards, so I was naturally curious to experience the award-winning seats for myself. Being 6 feet, 3 inches tall, I sometimes have to squeeze into airline seats, but there was a perfect amount of space for me

to extend my legs and relax a bit. Once I took my seat, a crewmember swiftly greeted me and provided drinks, a WiFi voucher, an assortment of nuts and the Magnifica standard Salvatore Ferragamo amenity kit. In-Flight: Wearing sharp new uniforms designed by Italian designer Alberta Ferretti, flight attendants wasted no time taking everyone’s food and drink orders after take-off. In addition to Best Business-Class Seat Design, Alitalia has won Best Airline Cuisine for nine consecutive years in the GT Tested Reader Survey awards. I regrettably did not try the Alitalia Lavazza espresso (given the overnight flight), opting instead for a red wine. The wide-ranging menu gave me some great options, and after placing my order I reclined my seat to watch a movie. My food arrived course by course with little wait time, and the crew took all steps to make sure I had everything I needed. Every part of the meal was excellent, and I can see why our readers love the Alitalia cuisine so much. With a movie on, a full stomach and my seat at 180 degrees, I got some quality sleep for the night and woke up in the morning just prior to landing.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ All crewmembers paid exceptional attention to detail and were always timely with service. ◆ The comfort of the Magnifica seat allowed me to fully relax during the long flight. ◆ The Alitalia food and wine exceeded my expectations, and the menu was expansive but not overwhelming. ALITALIA alitalia.com

JULY 2019

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GT tested

SHERATON MIRAMAR Reviewed by Katie Skrzek

Guest Quarters: After I settled in a bit, I took a brief nap before leaving for the day. The gentle sounds of the ocean waves rocked me to sleep. The property boasts 142 rooms, all with ocean views. My superior room featured a king-sized bed with a variety of pillows, two plush chairs, a desk, balcony with two chairs, complimentary WiFi and other standard guestroom amenities. Most television channels were in Spanish, except a couple of news networks broadcast in English. My room was stocked with bottled water during my stay. The bathroom featured a separate bathtub and shower with rainfall and standard showerhead options. I spent most of my visit exploring Viña del Mar, though I felt at home during the time I did spend in my room. I especially enjoyed the spectacular view of the ocean and Viña del Mar at sunset. Services/Amenities: Sheraton Miramar Hotel & Convention Center offers visitors multiple meeting options, including five ballrooms and a foyer spanning three floors for a capacity of up to 1,200 guests. There are 14 event rooms in total, with 28,158 square feet of event space throughout the property.

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The 24-hour fitness center boasts views of the ocean — a great motivator for a workout. The fitness center offers a variety of daily classes, including spin. The spa adjoins the fitness center. All guests are welcome to use the sauna, hot tub, pool, steam room and lockers. Spa treatments may be booked for a fee. I indulged in a 60-minute massage on the first night of my stay. My therapist worked out my sore muscles from the plane ride and full day of activities. It proved the perfect way to end a long, busy day of travel. Several on-site dining options are available. I dined at Travesia Restaurant each morning of my stay for the breakfast buffet. The spread featured a mix of cold and hot options including smoked salmon, pastries, fruit, cereal, chorizo, an omelet station and fresh fruit juice. The property also offers 24-hour room service, with different menu options throughout the day. I ordered a light dinner to my room after my massage, as I was tired and not hungry for a large meal. The last night of my stay, I enjoyed dinner at the ocean-level Las Olas Restaurant. The restaurant serves traditional Chilean cuisine, with an international influence. I sampled a variety of small plates to start, including ceviche and sushi. Seafood is quite popular in the ocean-front city, so I opted for grilled grouper with a salad of hearts of palm, artichokes and tomatoes for my main course. Chilean wine completed the fantastic meal. Sheraton Miramar Hotel & Convention Center is the perfect property whether you stay in Viña del Mar for business or leisure.

TOP TAKEAWAYS:

◆ Spend time enjoying the spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean and Viña del Mar coast from your guestroom, the fitness center, pool, restaurants or lobby. ◆ Dinner at Las Olas Restaurant was one of my favorite meals in Viña del Mar. Indulge in the restaurant’s superb seafood preparations and Chilean wine. ◆ Take advantage of the spa facilities, open to all guests, including the steam room, sauna and hot tub. SHERATON MIRAMAR HOTEL & CONVENTION CENTER Ave. Marina N. 15 Viña del Mar, Chile tel 56 32 238 8600 marriott.com

PHOTOS: © SHERATON MIRAMAR

Arrival/Check-In: My flight landed in Santiago early in the morning. I made my way to the Sheraton Miramar Hotel & Convention Center, less than a two-hour drive from the airport. The property is situated directly along the Pacific Ocean in Viña del Mar. My room was ready even though I arrived prior to check-in time. Tired from my trip, I immediately made my way to my room on the sixth floor to rest.

one on one

EVA REDA Executive Vice President, Global Co-Brand Partnerships and Business Development, American Express almost seemed fake, it was so spectacular. It was both relaxing and a reminder of the power of Mother Nature. One travel tip you cannot live without: Take care of sleep. If I don’t get eight hours, things can go bananas. Plus, if you’re sleep-deprived, you cannot appreciate any of the tasks at hand, business or leisure. Best advice for business travelers: Add on extra time if you can, especially when you’re in a beautiful place. Find an opportunity to leave the conference room. Catch a moment to enjoy where you are.

PHOTO: © AMERICAN EXPRESS

Name: Eva Reda Title: Executive vice president, global co-brand partnerships and business development Company, city: American Express; New York City, New York Number of employees: 55,000 Recent project: The rebrand and refresh of the Marriott Bonvoy American Express Card portfolio, formerly the SPG American Express Card portfolio First job: I was a pharmacy technician. Little-known fact about you: I love old homes and find restoration so much fun. I bought a home from the 1890s and restored it to what it was; I love all the detail and architecture notes. YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? In the travel and credit card space, it will be finding ways to leverage technology without losing the human touch. Our brand cares about our customers. Best career advice you’ve received: Do what you love because it is what you will be best at. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Prioritize taking the time to find what you love. AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: About 10 years ago I was in Costa Rica at a hotel situated at the base of the Arenal Volcano. At dusk I could see the active volcano from a wall of floor-to-ceiling windows in the hotel. With the glow and smoke pouring out of the volcano, it

ABOUT YOUR BRAND As Marriott recently rebranded its loyalty program, American Express and Marriott rebranded the co-branded credit cards. Tell us about the new cards. Earlier this year Marriott International, a longstanding partner of more than 50 years, worked with us to rebrand and refresh our co-branded card products; the Marriott Bonvoy American Express cards feature new names, benefits, designs and special offers. The Starwood Preferred Guest American Express Luxury Card rebranded to Marriott Bonvoy Brilliant American Express Card; this is our highest-level card and features a stainless-steel card design. One of its new benefits is up to $100 in property credits per stay at The Ritz-Carlton or St. Regis properties. The Starwood Preferred Guest Credit Card from American Express is rebranded as the Marriott Bonvoy American Express Card, complete with an artist-commissioned card design. Finally, the Starwood Preferred Guest Business Credit Card from American Express is now the Marriott Bonvoy Business American Express Card, with a new benefit of receiving an additional free night award (redemption level at or under 35,000 points) when a card member spends $60,000 or more on the card annually. What exclusive events and experiences can Marriott Bonvoy American Express card members look forward to? We have events throughout the year that really touch on our card members’ passion points of food, music, art and sports. Some events are open to all card members while others are exclusive to Marriott Bonvoy Brilliant card members. American Express and Marriott Bonvoy host a range of exclusive events annually; this year, for example, we had a presence at the Masters, hosting card members at golf’s most prestigious tournament. In December we’ll host card members at a premium Marriott hotel during Miami’s Art Basel, while in October there’s a card member experience at Marriott’s Ion Hotel in Iceland. Other events include BottleRock, Aspen Food & Wine and the U.S. Open. Marriott and American Express enjoy a history of more than 50 years. What can our readers expect from the future of this relationship? We’re excited to fully bring these rebranded cards to market and further communicate all the benefits. Now that The Ritz-Carlton program has been integrated into the Marriott Bonvoy program, whereas before it was its own program, we can bring more luxury events to card members. We will also continue to develop an exclusive event calendar for our card members each year.

JULY 2019

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one on one

JAE-SUNG RHEE President and CEO, Seoul Tourism Organization

AS A TRAVELER Favorite travel memory or story: There are so many it’s hard to choose, but in 2008 my trip to Barcelona made a big impression. The architecture was amazing, and the people were charismatic. My favorite food travels have been to Bucharest, Romania, where I tried local delicacies like grilled foi gras and vintage decanted wines that breathed with flavor. One travel tip you cannot live without: Bring a converter or two; you can never have enough. Also bring emergency medicine in case a cold or headache suddenly occurs on your travels. Best advice for business travelers: Consult your hotel’s concierge for tips on local events and authentic dining experiences. Connect your hobbies with your destinations; I play golf on my trips if time allows and have searched local shops in Europe for LPs and records to take home.

YOUR BUSINESS What innovations/initiatives do you foresee in the industry over the next years? Over-tourism is becoming an issue around the globe, and Seoul, moving forward, will focus on fair tourism. We are making sure residents and travelers can coexist and equally benefit from visitors spending time in the city. We also see technology like virtual reality allowing travelers to explore and create experiences. We want to be on the forefront of these innovations along with local experts. Best career advice you’ve received: If you cannot avoid it, like it and excel at it. What advice would you give someone starting out in the field? Travel as much as possible; it’s important to get a new perspective from a traveler’s point of view.

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What can luxury travelers expect from a visit to Seoul? Luxury travelers have access to plenty of Michelin-starred restaurants that put a modern twist on traditional Korean food, and 5-star hotels with spectacular views of not only the city but also its natural beauty, like Namsan Mountain, Bugaksan Mountain and the Han River. Tell our readers more about your favorite things to do and see in Seoul. There are many outdoor activities for our travelers to experience. I suggest trekking the Walled City, which takes you along green trails and historic sites like Seoul’s Hanyang Doseong (Fortress Wall). If you are looking for something more unique, the JongMyo Shrine, a UNESCO World Culture Heritage site, is dedicated to past kings and queens of the Joseon Dynasty, sharing a place steeped in history and a solemn and sacred experience. To look at the rich history of Korean furniture, visit the Korea Furniture Museum, boasting 2,500 pieces set up as they would have been used in daily life. Reservations are recommended for English-language guided tours.

PHOTO: © SEOUL TOURISM ORGANIZATION

Name: Jae-sung Rhee Title: President and CEO Company, city: Seoul Tourism Organization; Seoul, South Korea Number of employees: 150 in the STO office Recent project: Launching a Seoul Welcome Kit through our Seoul MICE Alliances program, which includes vouchers for extra services and goods from more than 30 partners First job: I worked at a shipbuilding company in Masan, South Korea. As I majored in Spanish in my university years, my first project was working on ships for export to Venezuela. Little-known fact about you: I enjoy playing golf and walking outdoors.

ABOUT YOUR BRAND What events and festivals are coming to Seoul? Seoul hosts more than 200 festivals year-round for travelers to experience. In the spring and summer we offer the Seoul Summer Sale and the Korean K-Beauty Cosmetics Sales, big for travelers looking to do some shopping. In the fall and winter we have the Seoul Lantern Festival and Kimchi Festival; plus, 25 local districts have their own Christmas celebrations.

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FAMILY BUSINESS

BALI p. 68 MEETS ROMANCE GENEVA p. 64 IN THE WHITE CITY LUXEMBOURG p. 62 MACHU PICCHU p. 72 MALDIVES p. 76 MELBOURNE p. 66 SEDONA p. 60 VIENNA p. 54

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ADVENTURE AWAITS IN THE LAND OF FIRE AND ICE | Global Traveler | 35

9–5 | CAPE TOWN

GT on the Road GT Members Section Captivating Cape Town

he new GT app is This cultural crossroads provides endless opportunities for entertaining clients. BY MEREDITH BETHUNE

JOHANNESBURG MAY HAVE THE REPUTATION as South Africa’s business capital, but Cape Town still offers plenty to those traveling for work. The Mother City, as it is commonly known, with its spectacular waterfront setting crowned by the famous Table Mountain, hosts conferences that attract visitors from around the world. You’ll likely arrive at Cape Town International Airport, the second-busiest in South Africa and the thirdbusiest on the entire continent. Located just 12 miles from the city center, it experienced tremendous growth since opening in 1954. More than 10 million passengers

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technology

GET IN GEAR Amp up the summer fun with high-quality tools. BY JACK GUY

APPLE TV 4K Television technology continues to advance at a rapid pace, and sets that are just a few years old may now be missing some key features. If you don’t want to invest in a whole new television, add a streaming device like the Apple TV. The streaming box plugs into your existing television and delivers content from all major streaming services in 4K, HDR 10 and Dolby Vision to all compatible devices. $179. apple.com

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PEAK DESIGN TECH POUCH Every new gadget you buy invariably comes with additional cables and accessories that need to be stored and carried around. The Tech Pouch from Peak Design aims to make traveling with your tech gear stress-free, providing a well-designed holder for chargers, batteries, SD cards and any other items. Its recycled nylon shell keeps everything clean and dry, plus there are thoughtful features like a cable pass-through for easy charging. Choose from black or sage green. $59.95. peakdesign.com

LEICA X-U This digital camera from legendary brand Leica boasts a standout feature compared to the rest of the range: It’s waterproof. While there are plenty of waterproof cameras out there, most sacrifice performance for durability. The difference here is the X-U offers the amazing visual quality you’d expect from Leica — thanks to a 16.5-megapixel APS-C CMOS sensor and a Summilux 23mm f/1.7 lens — and is also waterproof to 15 meters and shockproof to up to a 1.22-meter drop. It’s got a hefty price tag, but the Leica X-U should last for years. $3,500. leica.com

PHOTOS: © SONOS, © APPLE, © PEAK DESIGN, © LEICA

SONOS PLAY The PLAY range of wireless speakers includes three speakers of varying sizes as well as a subwoofer for extra bass. You can combine the speakers in a multiroom system that uses your home WiFi to beam music around the house, and improve your TV audio with the Beam soundbar. Sonos is one of the original WiFi speaker manufacturers, known for making high-quality audio gear, and the PLAY system doesn’t disappoint. Speaker sets from $298. sonos.com

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wine & spirits

WATER OF LIFE

haw Bernard S ge r o e G .’ e unshin is liquid s ‘Whiskey

Bushmills continues a 400-year-old tradition of crafting the finest Irish whiskey. By Eunice Fried In a tasting of Irish whiskey, I chose three of Bushmills’s most popular bottlings: a 10-year-old, a 16-year-old and a 21-year-old, all single malts. Bushmills 10 Year Old was golden yellow, the lightest shade of the three, and exuded a bright, clear, inviting aroma that combined a touch of vanilla with a light floral hint. It was followed by a smooth taste eliciting banana and other fruits, mild nut flavors and a bit of spice … a most satisfying whiskey. Bushmills 16 Year Old appeared bright amber in color. Its deep aroma evoked almond and vanilla while its highly flavorful taste brought to mind ripe fruits. An evolved whiskey, it offered depth of flavor and an interesting complexity with honey overtones. Bushmills 21 Year Old ages the first 19 years in old sherry and bourbon casks and the final two in Madeira casks. With a darker amber color, it presents a deep almond aroma and a satiny body, an exquisite Irish whiskey. Prices vary considerably: 10 Year Old, $30–46; 16 Year Old, $103–150; 21 Year Old, $125–250.

PHOTOS: © BUSHMILLS IRISH WHISKEY

IN THE CURRENT SWIRL of Americans’ changing tastes, Irish whiskey’s popularity soared over the last decade, with sales growing substantially, particularly among higher-priced bottles. One of those U.S.-bound labels is Bushmills, the oldest of all Irish whiskeys, having been the country’s first whiskey distillery licensed, in 1608. Actually, Irish whiskey began centuries before that first licensing when it was still known as uisce beatha, water of life. And as some stories have it, it was the Irish who introduced whiskey to Scotland. Today, while both countries turn out lovely spirits, they have differences. The first obvious difference: Scotland produces what it calls “whisky” while Ireland produces “whiskey.” Most Scotch-producing distilleries use double distillation while most Irish distilleries use triple distillation. Scotland tends to use peat in its production, thus producing a drink with smokier, earthier tones. Only a few Irish whiskeys involve peat, so most Irish whiskey tends to have a smoother, satiny finish.

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wealth

RETIREMENT REFORM

PHOTO: © RAWPIXELIMAGES - DREAMSTIME.COM

The proposed SECURE Act aims to improve the nation’s retirement system.

AT PRESS TIME, THE SECURE ACT still needed to pass the U.S. Senate, but it appears to have bipartisan support, based on the 417–3 vote it received in the House of Representatives in late May. If it passes, retirees and those saving for retirement can expect some exciting changes. The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act of 2017 did not really touch on retirement reform. The Setting Every Community Up for Retirement Enhancement (SECURE) Act creates a safe harbor for employers to offer annuities. This has become a focal point of retirees; according to studies, many retirees feel more comfortable knowing they have a steady stream of income throughout their life. The bill will also make it easier for smaller businesses to offer and implement retirement plans. Many small businesses feel it is expensive and a burden for them to offer a plan. Tax credits may offer an enticement to change their way of thinking. The government is looking to do that. Additionally, the SECURE Act may offer part-time workers the ability to join the company retirement plan. Businesses also would have the opportunity to join together and form multiple IRA plans which would allow them to get better pricing and better investing opportunities for their employees. The bill would also raise the required minimum distribution age from 70.5 to 72 years. The required minimum distribution age is the age when

the owners of retirement plans need to begin taking distributions out of the plan, whether they want to or not. This is how the government begins to collect taxes on those dollars built up in an individual’s plan for many years, even decades. Also addressed is the age limitation on IRA contributions. Currently, individuals cannot contribute after age 70.5, but this limitation would be removed so people who work later in life (you need to have earned income in order to contribute to a plan) will be able to contribute to an IRA for as long as they choose. Another nice feature of the proposed plan would allow a new parent to withdraw up to $5,000 from a retirement plan to cover expenses related to a new baby or adoption without triggering the 10 percent penalty if the individual is younger than age 59.5. As this bill may become law, and if you are the type of individual who would take comfort in having a known income stream coming from retirement funds, now may be the time to speak with your financial advisor to get the ball rolling. It is never too early — or too late — to save and plan for your retirement. The SECURE Act has bipartisan support because employees just don’t receive pensions as they did decades ago. The employee now must steer that ship, as employers are less likely to do so.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional financial advice. Always seek the expertise of a certified financial advisor or other qualified provider with any questions you may have regarding personal finance, investment and money-related issues.

JULY 2019

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tours

ALTRUISTIC ADVENTURERS

istic This altru company adventure to its gives back ns, destinatio rly raising nea n to $10 millio nservaco support tion and tion, educa ardship marine stew ing a and launch d for Joint Fun n and o Explorati on to Conservati stainable support su itiatives tourism in world. around the

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ONCE KNOWN AS THE “END OF THE WORLD” or the “Untouchable Continent,” Antarctica welcomed 51,707 passengers between 2017 and 2018. Travel to Antarctica moved closer to the limelight over the years, all thanks to the pioneering work of one man who had a vision to bring adventurous and education-minded tourists to remote destinations around the world in small expedition ships. Lars-Eric Lindblad led the first travelers’ expedition to Antarctica in 1966, setting the standard for Antarctic travel with the use of French-made inflatable Zodiac boats and a small ship filled with crew members, naturalists and lecturers to help educate guests about the destination. The expedition was not Lindblad’s first (he started Lindblad Travel in 1958), and it would definitely not be his last, as this adventurous environmentalist set out to explore more and more exotic locales alongside like-minded travelers. Lindblad is often referred to as the father of ecotourism, but the adventurous spirit didn’t fall far from the tree, and it was his son, Sven-Olof Lindblad, who would eventually launch the company as it’s known today, Lindblad Expeditions. In 2004 Lindblad Expeditions partnered with National Geographic to offer life-changing adventures on all seven continents. Together Lindblad Expeditions and National Geographic pioneered culturally and environmentally conscious adventure travel by launching the first kayaking excursions in the Arctic, Antarctica and the Galápagos and the first to launch an undersea exploration program. Today the company employs a full-time certified National Geographic photo instructor on board each expedition and a National Geographic photographer on board every departure of the National JULY 2019

Geographic Explorer and National Geographic Orion ships, willing to help guests get the best possible shots to return home with some truly memorable souvenirs. Each voyage from Lindblad Expeditions also includes time for guests to interact with world-renowned scientists, researchers, explorers and photographers on board to help deepen passenger understanding of the natural surroundings, history and culture of the destinations. The company operates with a staff-to-guest ratio of no more than one to 16, so every guest has the opportunity or option of one-on-one time with these experts in their respective fields. Lindblad Expeditions cruises sail to all seven continents, with many expeditions touching more than one destination throughout the journey. Popular cruises include a 13-day Passage Through Egypt, a 14-day Journey to Antarctica: The White Continent and an eight-day Sailing the Caribbean. The fare covers just about everything once passengers are aboard, including meals and non-alcoholic beverages (although a few ships include bar tabs, gratuities and WiFi in the all-inclusive plan), filtered water, snacks and hors d’oeuvres during recaps, fitness center access, access to a fully stocked library and physician services on board. Ashore, guests can take advantage of complimentary excursions, hotel bookings, meals on land (when part of the itinerary), entrance fees, transfers and presentations. Education and access to knowledgeable staff set Lindblad Expeditions apart from other expedition cruise companies, and the company continues to add more and more voyages to its itineraries every year, offering guests more options for journeying with this adventurous company.

PHOTO: © LINDBLAD EXPEDITIONS

Dedicated to education and ecotourism, Lindblad Expeditions sails to all seven continents. BY KRISTY ALPERT

spas

A PEACEFUL PLACE Decompress with a truly tranquil retreat in the Azores. BY RICHARD NEWTON

TOTAL TRANQUILITY:

Thermal whirlpool PHOTO: TERRA NOSTRA GARDEN HOTEL

AT THE CREST OF THE ROAD we see what we are getting ourselves into: an active volcanic caldera. We only understand what we are seeing because, earlier, we’d tilted the map in Google Earth and saw the steep sides plunging down in a rough circle. Now, in true scale, despite the lush blanketing of greenery, we can interpret the contours. There below us, huddled in the heart of the caldera, lies the town of Furnas and our hotel. What we are getting into is rest and relaxation. Unimaginable violence created this landscape, and in the geological future it will erupt again. But for now, Furnas remains one of the most idyllic and peaceful towns on Earth. Precisely where are we on Earth? Zooming out in Google Earth gives context. We are on the island of São Miguel in the Azores, in the Atlantic Ocean, approximately a third of the way between mainland Portugal and the Eastern Seaboard of the United States. These Portuguese islands straddle the divide between the European

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and North American plates. The fissure between the two plates is one of the drivers of the volcanic activity that created the islands. That volcanic activity was the making of Furnas. Here, volcanically heated water wells up from underground, forming streams and pools. Mud springs and geysers bubble and spurt. The rottenegg whiff of sulfur infuses the air, but it’s a healthy smell. It’s the smell of natural spas and, for us, a weekend of pampering. We are staying at the Terra Nostra Garden Hotel, a venerable property set within 31 acres of botanical gardens originally planted in 1775 by Thomas Hickling, U.S. Consul to the island. After a succession of make-overs, the hotel is now an Art Deco palace resembling a Golden Age trans-Atlantic liner. Our first treatments are formal, in the Wellness Place, the hotel’s elegant spa. It offers an extensive menu of options, but the staff will also tailor the program to the needs of each guest. Mindful of our location, we opt for the volcanic hot stone massage. The scent of therapeutic oils in the treatment room masks Furnas’s pervading

aroma of rotten eggs, but the hot roughness of rock on skin reconnects us with the underlying geology. Such moments will be repeated throughout our time here. Beyond the hotel and its gardens there is much to explore. We spend our days hiking the marked trails. We keep our swimwear with us at all times; we never know when we’ll need it. Turn a corner, and there’s a hot spring. Poça da Dona Beija soon becomes our favorite: a complex of five pools of differing temperatures. Connected by bridges and paths, the pools offer changing facilities at the entrance. One lesson we soon learn: Don’t wear white. The white stripes on the sides of my trunks and the patterns of my wife’s bikini soon take on a permanent orange tinge from the minerals in the water. Periodically on our hikes we see men lowering pots into steaming volcanic vents. Hours later they return to lift them out. The pots contain cozido, a meat and vegetable casserole. Most famously served at Restaurante Tony’s in town, if you want to try cozido, be sure to place your order a day in advance. The excursions are fun, but Terra Nostra remains our center of gravity. Our beautiful room, with its porthole mirror and its canopy-level view of the gardens, is the epitome of luxury. The restaurant serves some of the best food we’ve had anywhere. In the refined spa, our only regret is we don’t have specific requests to break the therapists from their routine. A large, shallow, natural thermal pool sits in the sumptuous gardens, open to the public during the day but not first thing in the morning. On our final day we take advantage of one of the hotel’s special services: breakfast for two beside the thermal pool. It is the perfect morning for it: cool and drizzly. We pad down from our room in our bathrobes and out along the path to the pool, where our table has been laid under a canopy under the trees. A chef and waiter stand in attendance. The waiter shepherds us poolside under an umbrella and takes our robes. In our swimwear, we each dip into the placid, steamy water. We have it entirely to ourselves. With rain pattering gently on our heads, we wade through the pool’s swirling currents: sometimes warm, sometimes hot. When we finally step out, the waiter shelters us back to the table. Within a couple of hours, the pool will erupt with visitors. But for now, over a cooked breakfast, we savor peace and tranquility.

MOMENTS OF PLEASURE: The Wellness Place (above), and

cozido (left)

PHOTOS: © TERRA NOSTRA GARDEN HOTEL

Terra Nostra Garden Hotel Rua Padre José Jacinto Botelho, 5 9675-061 Furnas São Miguel, Azores Portugal tel 351 296 549 090 terranostra-gardenhotel.com

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golf

WATER, WATER EVERYWHERE Drop in for a challenging but playable round at Florida’s Waterford Golf Club. BY FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

BLOWIN’ IN THE WIND: Hole 6 – Turnberry

PHOTO: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

OVER THE EASTER HOLIDAY, we planned a tee time at Waterford Golf Club in Venice, Florida. As the day progressed, it looked like we’d have a washout; even the course reached out to warn us of possible cancellations as record rains headed toward the region. In the morning, we checked the forecast early and called to see if our tee time could be moved up so we could get in the round prior to the storm. Course PGA professional Jack McFaul told us to come on out and the team at Waterford would make sure we got out earlier, so off we went. I was under the impression Waterford, located between Sarasota and Venice, would be an “old man’s” course — boy, was I wrong! The well-maintained course features narrow fairways and water that surprisingly comes into play. It is a challenging, shot-makers course where long drives can pay off or prove disastrous. The club comprises three nine-hole courses: Gleneagles, Turnberry and Sawgrass. We teed off on Turnberry and then went on to Sawgrass for our 18; this combination kept us moving at a good clip, so fast we caught up to a group — but this allowed us a couple of enjoyable hole replays.

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Ted McAnlis designed the three nines at Waterford. He started life as a NASA civil engineer then migrated to golf course design, specializing in courses in Florida such as St. Andrews in Boca Raton. His career ended abruptly when he was incarcerated for tax evasion. So if you feel some of these holes place you in jail, well, McAnlis understands. Aside from his personal issues, he was a great designer, creating some challenging but playable courses throughout the state. I teed up with Paul Gosselin, who dared me to beat the storm and tame this “old man’s” course. The staff in the restaurant, pro shop and on the course added to the enjoyment of playing Waterford. I would consider a return visit.

HOLE 5 | 531 yards, par 5 – Turnberry

This is one of the holes we replayed as we flew though the course at great speed. There is no question a little course knowledge helped the second time through. From the tee box the fairway is fairly wide open, but on first try I took a more leftward trajectory, leaving me to contend with tree branches. I also did not realize water lurked on the left, and every ball landing within a few feet was deflected away

and wet. Paul equally had issues; so when we finished with a set of double bogeys, we decided to go back to the tee and retry, as there was no one in sight behind us. We saw a vast improvement in scores; I carded a par, and Paul a bogey!

HOLE 6 | 208 yards, par 4 – Turnberry With water on the right and screeching winds, I slammed a 3-wood to the left side of the green, nearly rolling into the water. Paul overshot the green, causing him issues returning, while I managed to chip up and two-putt for bogey. Playing the wind on a day like that is crucial at Waterford.

HOLE 9 | 378 yards, par 4 – Turnberry

As we wound down our first nine, the Turnberry closing hole did not disappoint. Just before we teed off, I had to take a phone call from a contractor working on my house. He seemed to have a complete memory loss about our agreement, so this had me worked up for my drive. In the layout of Hole 9, water sits on the left and wraps around the fairway, then crosses and splits the terrain between the green and your landing area. I mishit my drive, which turned out to be a benefit as the ball landed dead center and short of the water. Paul shot his ball, clubbing down but still dangerously short of the water. Up and down got us near the green but unable to secure par. We each walked away with a bogey — blame the contractor, I said! When driving between Turnberry and Sawgrass, check out the cool totem pole the locals constructed.

HOLE 1 | 390 yards, par 4 – Sawgrass

Not particularly long and not ranked top on the course, this hole certainly can present the ultimate challenge. The rangers drove by as we prepared to tee off, and we laughed at how narrow the entire course was, this hole particularly. “You lose a lot of balls here at Waterford,” one said. Remember, all the while we were playing rather fast to beat the pending tropical storm. As we had caught up to the group in front of us, we enjoyed a unique opportunity to play the hole twice — this kept us from playing on top of the foursome in front. I teed up and sent my drive to the left side of the fairway, landing in a prime position. Paul also drove toward the left, passing me by some 40 yards but kicking into some high grass and branches. My second shot landed on the green, and I took an easy two-putt for par. Paul had to take a penalty and carded a decent bogey. We found it amusing our replay was not any better than the first time — tossing out the thought that course knowledge is king!

HOLE 6, |423 yards, par 4 – Sawgrass

Hole 6 showed its angry face: very narrow with trees and brush running the entire left side and a pond and marsh lining

the right from the tee box nearly two-thirds of the way down to the hole. With trepidation we teed up and sent our bombs out with the best intentions, mine landing right center and Paul’s taking a precarious bounce near the edge of the pond but far out. After much searching, Paul discovered his ball rolled into the pond, causing him to drop a ball and take his second shot, which landed on the green. My second shot was less on target and landed right, nearly out of bounds among some palm trees. I fortunately had a nice line to the cup and sent my lob wedge over a trap and onto the green. Those wasted shots caused us each to score a bogey.

HOLE 8 | 346 yards, par 4 – Sawgrass

Hole 8 is interesting, as the design takes this dogleg around the right side of a pond at a sharp angle. Big hitters can take the ball over the corner of the pond, leaving a short chip to the green. The wind was blasting, so we made every effort to keep our drives in play. I shot forward, blowing through the fairway and nearly out of bounds to the houses on the other side of the cart path. This kept me far enough from the water where the course “pet” — Bessie, a 12-foot alligator — likes to sun herself. Paul cut off the corner a bit for an easier chip, but through a series of decent chips we both carded pars. JULY 2019

STAY IN PLAY:

Hole 8 – Sawgrass (top), and totem (bottom) PHOTOS: © FRANCIS X. GALLAGHER

Waterford Golf Club 1454 Gleneagles Drive Venice, FL 34292 tel 941 484 6621 golfinvenice.com

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chefs

ART OF CUISINE Chef Eduardo Palazuelos blends cultures and culinary techniques at Mexico’s Zibu Allende. BY KIMBERLY KROL

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WHICH DESTINATIONS INSPIRED YOU, AND HOW HAS THAT INSPIRATION TRANSLATED INTO YOUR CULINARY CONCEPTS? I was raised in Acapulco, a Mexican tourist destination on the Pacific Ocean, surrounded by mountains with lush tropical gardens. In my childhood years, I was influenced by flavors such as coconut, mango, tamarind and fresh seafood that would arrive directly from the local fishermen to my mother’s house. WHOM DO YOU CONSIDER TO BE YOUR CULINARY HERO? My mother, Susana Palazuelos. She was a famous caterer and cookbook author and was invited around the world to do Mexican food festivals. WHAT ONE PERSON MOST INFLUENCED YOUR COOKING STYLE? I had the pleasure of working with Wolfgang Puck at Cornell University, and I loved the way he strived to make each dish the best he could. I was fascinated by the way he mixed Asian flavors with European techniques; I guess through him I expanded my view, and I started playing with my own flavors — traditional Mexican food mixed with Thai food and a great presentation. After all, inspiration is never-ending; through travel and meeting other chefs around the world, you exchange the love and passion for cooking. Cooking is like art: always changing, always evolving.

WHAT IS YOUR FAVORITE FOOD CITY? Mexico City! I was fortunate to travel the world at an early age to discover different cultures and cuisines. Hong Kong, London, Sydney, Madrid, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok, Paris, Seattle and Lausanne were among the cities that provided me with a broader scope of what the culinary world is about, but it was in Mexico where I discovered a true love and respect for the ingredients and culinary techniques.

CMY

WHAT DO YOU THINK THE NEXT BIG TREND ON THE FOOD SCENE WILL BE? The trend is focusing on honest food — about how we can contribute to cook a better world. Respect for the ingredient[s] and for the people behind them is a must. Sustainability is key at this present time. I always believe we have the power to influence our destiny through our habits, and that applies to cooking as well. Cocktails are back, and flavors from Mexico and India are invading universal kitchens. ZIBU ALLENDE Live Aqua San Miguel de Allende Urban Resort Calz. de la Presa 85, Zona Centro 37700 San Miguel de Allende Mexico tel 52 415 150 2300 liveaqua.com

PHOTOS: © LIVE AQUA

AS A MEMBER OF A FAMILY of culinary excellence, it’s only fitting Eduardo Palazuelos followed in those footsteps to become one of the most outstanding chefs in Mexico. He remained true to his roots even as he traveled the globe, studying in Switzerland and New York and working in Paris, Seattle and Bangkok. The award-winning chef owns several successful restaurants in Mexico: Mar del Zur, Zibu and Mario Canario. Acapulco’s Zibu has been named among the world’s best restaurants. Palazuelos also co-owns Palazuelos Catering, serving the most exclusive clientele in Mexico since 1973. Today the stylings of Palazuelos are accessible to guests of Live Aqua Urban Resort San Miguel de Allende at Zibu Allende. The restaurant tells the story of Asia meeting Mexico through the Galleon of Manila, a ship that bridged the regions. That connection delights taste buds with Zibu Allende’s Mex-Tai offerings, a fusion of Thai and Mexican haute cuisine.

cruising

HIGH STYLE ON THE HIGH SEAS

el, vess n o i at Ponant’s voyages combine exquisite luxury with exotic expeditions. plor ng in ectric r ex a l nchi o u el p a l t , s BY J.D. BROWN AND MARGARET BACKENHEIMER brid y ewe rcot h n a t h ’s C e rs ant ’s fi ruis dant le. Pon ke c orld man a w h Po t m t e o r o h t o t C t N e PONANT, THE ONLY MAJOR French-owned cruise line serving destinations Le irs ll b hic the f geograp 1, wi worldwide, is campaigning to attract more North American passengers, having 202 ker and e u he tr rea recently opened offices in New York and Miami. Ponant presents dual appeal in its to t iceb s r e fleet of small luxury ships featuring gourmet French dining and the wide range of eng pass exotic ports it serves from pole to pole. Long known as a top polar expedition cruise line, Ponant also sails to Northern Europe, Russia and the Mediterranean; Oceania, Asia and Africa; as well as Alaska and Central and South America. Its 2019–2020 program includes 114 departures, with 23 sailings to Antarctica and 33 to Latin America. Its fleet of nine vessels ranges from one classic three-masted sailing yacht — the 64-passenger Le Ponant — to the four 244- to 264-passenger yacht-like ships Le Soleal, Le Boreal, L’Austral and Le Lyrial, each equipped with spa and fitness facilities. All feature French crews and chefs, with both French and English the official onboard languages. A new series of 184-passenger exploration ships, led by the OCEAN ADVENTURE: recent launches of Le Laperouse, Le Bougainville, Le Champlain and Le Le Champlain Blue Dumont-d’Urville, extends Ponant’s French touch to high-end exploraEyes underwater tion cruising. These yacht-like exploration vessels boast Blue Eyes, passenger lounge, exterior, and pool the world’s first underwater passenger lounge, enabling guests to see, hear and feel the ocean from “body listening sofas.” The ships also PHOTOS: © PONANT sport private balconies and terraces, moveable marinas, heated seawater pools and solariums, two gourmet dining venues with menus by Ducasse Conseil, Champagnes by Veuve Clicquot, theaters for lectures and shows, and a fitness center with spa treatments from Paris-based Sothys. Members of Ponant’s small-ship luxury fleet, such as the chic Le Soleal, are frequently chartered by organizations for special cruises — such as Abercrombie & Kent’s popular Wonders of Japan all-inclusive annual outing, next set for June 13–26, 2020. Ponant’s more exotic voyages include a cruise aboard the new Le Dumont-d’Urville to the Bijagós Archipelago Oct. 8–16, 2019, off the coast of Africa’s Guinea-Bissau. This roundtrip from Dakar, Senegal, explores a rarely visited 88-island UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The same ship offers a nature-themed cruise Jan. 6–16, 2020, to Costa Rica and the Panama Canal featuring naturalist Paul Donahue. This cruise focuses on Costa Rica’s efforts to preserve its natural treasures, highlighted by a stop in Corcovado National Park, perhaps the most biodiverse location on Earth. Ponant signals its own dedication to environmental cruising through its partnership with the British-based Aldabra Clean Up Project in the Seychelles, where passengers can help with the cleanup of the Aldabra Atoll during a shore excursion. Whether it’s jungle or ice, Ponant makes it possible to explore the world’s diversity on seven continents while adding a French twist to expedition cruising.

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Welcome to Travel Inspired by Tahiti. Onboard our new fleet of Tahitian Dreamliner’s, you’ll be immersed in pure luxury. Full lie-flat seats in Poerava Business. Spacious 2-3-2 seating in the truly Moana Premium Economy cabin. And all-inclusive Moana Economy that will remind you of the glory days of air travel. Make your dreams come true on Air Tahiti Nui.

TA H I T I

LO S A N G E L E S

PA R I S

T O K YO

AUCKLAND

SYDNEY

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Hit the Beach

Head to the best U.S. beach towns this summer for the ultimate shore vacation. BY KELLY MAGYARICS PACK THE SUNSCREEN, flip-flops and cover-ups: The warmth of the rays you’ll find at these summery locales is matched only by their hospitality and a welcoming vibe that beckons you to their sun-drenched shores. Whether you crave a zillion diversions, outdoor pursuits or memorable dining — or need nothing more than a lounge chair and good book — you’ll find it in these U.S. coastal spots offering a shore thing. THREE MILES OF PRIME OCEANFRONT opening up to the Chesapeake Bay at the mouth of the Rudee Inlet gives Virginia Beach, Virginia, the distinction in the Guinness Book of World Records as the “longest pleasure beach in the world.” Most of the hotels, resorts and high-rise condos in this family-friendly, Mid-Atlantic beach

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town boast incredible views of the surf and sand and sit alongside a paved boardwalk perfect for taking a jaunt with a tandem or family bike. Though set back from the beach, the historic Cavalier Hotel, dating back to 1927, features a storied history and counts Frank Sinatra and Judy Garland as former guests. It recently underwent a massive renovation and now sports a luxury beach club and Tarnished Truth — the only distillery housed in a U.S. hotel. Sure, the city sports the expected T-shirt shops, ice cream parlors and amusement piers, but somehow here they come across as charming rather than ticky-tacky. You’ll find other surprises here, too, like a brown spirit and burger spot called Whiskey Kitchen and elevated sips at craft cocktail den Civil Libation. Every August the city hosts the East Coast Surfing Championships, the second-longest-running surfing contest in the world, now evolved into a week-long sports and entertainment festival. IF YOU’RE NOT FROM THESE PARTS, you might forget The Yellowhammer State even has a coastline. That would be a shame, as the 32 miles of turquoise-blue Gulf Coast beaches feature sugar-fine sand made up of quartz grains washed down from the Appalachian Mountains to the Alabama shore over thousands of years. The beaches at Gulf Shores and Orange Beach beckon with the scenic beauty and windswept vistas beachgoers crave. Outdoor buffs will be giddy to fish in the Gulf of Mexico and bike Backcountry Trail, and a new dive area offers three spots for snorkeling. Spot crabs at Alabama Point jetties; explore the Whiskey Wreck, a dive spot featuring a 1920 Spanish rum runner shipwreck teeming with marine life; and look for colorful tropical fish and sea

turtles at the 33 sections of Perdido Key Snorkel Reef. A thriving art scene includes local glassblowing at The Hot Shop at the Coastal Arts Center of Orange Beach, and the entire family can learn how to construct intricate, Instagram-worthy structures at Sand Castle University. The Gulf Shores’ and Orange Beach’s steadfast commitment to the environment encompasses a new education center at Gulf State Park and the greenminded hotel The Lodge at Gulf State Park, a Hilton Hotel. Foodies can slurp down plump oysters or nosh on sautéed or batter-fried pompano at the casual Doc’s Seafood or Tacky Jack’s on the water. Go a little more upscale at Fisher’s at Orange Beach Marina, overseen by a James Beard-nominated chef. WE SAY QUINTESSENTIAL BEACH TOWN, you say San Diego. In fact, it’s pretty difficult to think of anything but palm trees, endless sunshine and afternoons spent on laid-back beaches in SoCal’s outdoor playland with a whopping 70 miles of coastline. Average precipitation comes in at less than 12 inches per year; and while admittedly the city does get its fair share of partly cloudy days, too, think of it as a chance to keep the UV rays in check. No matter your personality or interest, there’s a beach with your name on it. Take your canines to frolic at Coronado Beach or Ocean Beach (the former is also home to the tony, historic

Hotel Coronado); cart the family to Pacific Beach; spot adorable sunbathing sea lions amid the cliffs of La Jolla Shores; surf and SUP at Tourmaline; and bird-watch at Imperial Beach, the southernmost beach in California. Just minutes from downtown lies Mission Bay Park, a 4,600-acre playground edged by 27 miles of shoreline and bordered by several communities that are always hopping. Everyone has an opinion on where to get the best fish tacos in SD: Try shrimp at Tacos Mimi; smoked marlin at El Comal; and anything at Fish 101, considered among the best seafood spots in the country. After the sun sets, make a pilgrimage to the apothecary-esque Polite Provisions and new speakeasy Realm of the 52 Remedies for some of the most creative libations anywhere. GOIN’ DOWN THE SHORE? That’s what visitors to Wildwood, New Jersey, have asked one another for decades. This MidAtlantic playground comprises four communities: North Wildwood, Wildwood, Wildwood Crest and West Wildwood. The area offers plenty of distinctive features, including its five miles of free beaches, measuring a staggering 1,500 feet wide in parts, and a two-mile boardwalk. Its amusement piers are jammed with water parks and roller coasters for thrill-seekers; arcades and carnivalstyle games for those trying their luck at monster plush toys and

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COASTAL COOL:

(Left to right) Virginia Beach; The Wharf at Orange Beach, Alabama; Coronado Beach; sea lions sunning on the beach in San Diego; and aerial view of Morey’s Piers and beachfront water parks complex in Wildwood, New Jersey PHOTOS: © SHERRYVSMITH DREAMSTIME.COM, © BRATTY1206 DREAMSTIME.COM, © JAMES BYARD - DREAMSTIME.COM, © RYAN KELEHAR DREAMSTIME.COM, © SALETOMIC - DREAMSTIME. COM

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other prizes; and souvenir shops and eateries with beloved specialties like pizza by the slice, fried dough, Lime Rickeys and Philly cheesesteaks. Don’t forget the saltwater taffy and fudge from rival shops Douglas Fudge and James Candy Company. Though you can book a room at a smattering of larger hotels and resorts, in Wildwood it’s all about doo-wop motels. This collection of 200 mid-century renovated properties is located mostly in Wildwood Crest, each with its own unique themes, signs, vivid color palettes and purposefully kitschy design. With 160 events annually, there is always something going on, like the New Jersey State Barbecue Championship and Anglesea Blues Festival, vintage car and motorcycle beach drag races and monster truck races on the beach. And long after you “walk the boards” and are back at home with your memories and souvies, you’ll still have that iconic phrase piped out of the boardwalk trolley stuck in your head: “Watch the tram car, please.” IT’S A LITTLE SLICE OF HEAVEN in this northern part of Florida: laid-back, quiet, natural and miles away from other coastal regions in the state. Amelia Island — a barrier island with 13 miles of pristine beaches — only sports a few full-service resorts, making it feel exclusive and in-the-know, but in an approachable way. The sprawling Omni Amelia Island Plantation Resort features a huge and inviting poolscape, thoughtful cuisine at several dining concepts and even a poolside Rum & Tequila Experience with flights and high-end bottles. The Ritz-Carlton focuses on holistic wellness, emphasizing mindfulness and healthy living, while its culinary program highlights a bourbon and rare bar in the lobby and Salt, a fine-dining restaurant. Its salt sommelier works with the chef to incorporate the more than 40 house-infused varieties into the menu. Amelia Schoolhouse Inn is a new boutique hotel housed in a historic schoolhouse. A short drive away find former Victorian seaport village Fernandina Beach, a casual town with eclectic shops, eateries, a new butterfly garden and upcoming minigolf experience. Grab a table at the Salt Life Food Shack for grilled redfish, fried grouper or a beach boil. Jacksonville is also just a short ride away, or you can search for (and frolic in) the Fountain of Youth in St. Augustine. After a relaxing and restorative week on Amelia Island, though, you might already feel 10 years younger. BOASTING AN AVERAGE 361 DAYS of sunshine a year, warm Gulf of Mexico waters and the most beautiful stretches of white sand in the world, Tampa Bay, Florida, has a beach for every mood. Within a short drive of downtown Tampa, you’ll easily find a dozen coastal treasures to explore, from family-friendly Clearwater Beach with cabanas, water sports and restaurants to the peaceful, natural, barrier island beaches of Caladesi Island State Park. Fort De Soto Park not only has a beach laden with seashells but also a tidal pool perfect for kids to splash in and a historic fort

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ON THE WATER:

Omni Amelia Island Plantation paddle boarding (above), and Fort De Soto Park in Tampa Bay (left) PHOTOS: © OMNI AMELIA ISLAND PLANTATION, © GIOVANNI GAGLIARDI DREAMSTIME.COM

to explore. Book a fishing or a dolphin-watching or shelling tour at John’s Pass Beach and stroll the charming, turn-of-the-century village peppered with unique shops and restaurants. Relax at the undeveloped public beach at Pass a Grill Beach, then stop by to tour the massive pink Don CeSar Hotel and luxuriate at its ultra-posh Spa Oceana. The list of area beaches goes on — whatever type of beach day you desire, Tampa Bay is your oyster.

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FAVORITE COUNTRY: Ireland PHOTO: © TOURISM IRELAND

FAVORITE CAR RENTAL COMPANY: Hertz PHOTO: © HERTZ

American Airlines

FAVORITE LOW-COST AIRLINE:

PHOTO: © AMERICAN AIRLINES

JetBlue

FAVORITE INTERNATIONAL AIRLINE:

PHOTO: © ROMAN TIRASPOLSKY DREAMSTIME.COM

THE TRAZEES AWARDS 2019 Global Traveler honors the winners in the world of millennial travel. BY KIMBERLY KROL MILLENNIALS HAVE BEEN DUBBED many things, among them, the Wanderlust Generation. However people may define this subset, it’s clear the impact this generation made on the travel industry: Social media has become another form of travel inspiration and a sales tool. It’s also where this generation gravitates to share its own travel experiences. Mobile booking is way up, thanks to millennials. According to a study conducted by Eventbrite, this age demographic craves experiences, including dedicating more income to these events, occasions and trips. Also included in the same study: Millennials command around $1.3 trillion in spending money. It’s a lucrative travel market, and the industry clearly listened. Which travel companies and brands make a splash with millennials? Whose efforts reaped great rewards? That’s the question we posed to the readers of trazeetravel.com, the sister web publication to Global Traveler, global travelerusa.com and whereverfamily.com. Trazee Travel is a one-stop resource

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for travelers aged 25–40, with news, tips, reviews and more, updated several times daily. We asked; our readers answered. We now present to you the findings as we announce the fifth annual The Trazees, awards presented for and by millennials. Reader nominations were collected December 2018–March 2019. Here’s a closer look at those savvy, sophisticated and social media-friendly companies deemed tops by engaged, excited and enthusiastic millennial travelers around the globe. Congratulations! We begin where most trips also start: with the winning airlines and airports around the globe. For the second consecutive year, American Airlines takes top honors as Favorite International Airline. The airline also scoops up another second-time honor for Favorite Airline Website. Its alliance, oneworld, officially becomes three-time Favorite Airline Alliance winner.

FAVORITE AIRPORT IN ASIA:

FAVORITE AIRCRAFT TYPE:

Singapore Changi Airport

Airbus A350

PHOTO: © SINGAPORE CHANGI AIRPORT

PHOTO: © AIR BUS

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l FAVORITEe INTERNATIONAL te r n a ti on a F avor it In AIRLINE American Airlines 1. American Airlines CONSECUTIVE YEAR 2. UnitedSECOND Airlines 3. Delta Air Lines 4. Emirates 5. Asiana Airlines

FAVORITE INDIVIDUAL LIFESTYLE HOTEL: 21C Museum Hotel Oklahoma City PHOTO: © MIKE SCHWARTZ COURTESY OF 21C MUSEUM HOTELS

FAVORITE AIRLINE ALLIANCE 1. oneworld 2. Star Alliance 3. SkyTeam FAVORITE AIRCRAFT TYPE 1. Airbus A350 2. Boeing 787 3. Boeing 777 4. Airbus A380 5. Airbus A330 FAVORITE AIRLINE WEBSITE 1. aa.com 2. united.com 3. delta.com 4. jetblue.com 5. southwest.com FAVORITE FREQUENT-FLYER PROGRAM 1. United MileagePlus 2. American Airlines AAdvantage 3. Delta SkyMiles 4. Alaska Mileage Plan 5. JetBlue TrueBlue

When it comes to aircraft, Trazee readers selected the Airbus A350 as Favorite Aircraft Type. Some of our other winning airlines also agree, as they fly the friendly skies with the aircraft: China Southern Airlines, Favorite Airline in Asia, has A350s on order; Delta Air Lines, Favorite Airline App, has some in operation, as does LATAM Airlines Group, Favorite Airline in Central/South America; and Etihad Airways, Favorite Airline in the Middle East, awaits completion of its order, alongside United Airlines, Favorite Green Airline. For accruing frequent-flyer bonuses and perks, millennial travelers prefer United again, as its MileagePlus program takes its second consecutive win as Favorite Frequent-Flyer Program. Another consecutive award winner celebrates a different milestone this year: South African Airways receives Quint Status for its five-time Favorite Airline in Africa nod. Quint Status is awarded to those winners receiving the same award title for five years in a row. Rounding out the airline winners are four other favorites:

Air Canada, Favorite Airline in North America; JetBlue, Favorite Low-Cost Airline; TAP Air Portugal, two-time Favorite Airline in Europe; and Interjet, winning Favorite Airline in Mexico for the first time. Now let’s take a closer look at the airports making a difference in the lives of millennial travelers, starting with Favorite Overall Airport in the World, Doha’s Hamad International Airport. DOH also receives Favorite Airport in the Middle East, second consecutive year; Favorite Duty-Free Shopping; and Favorite Duty-Free Shopping in the Middle East. Phew, that’s quite a feat! Coming home to North America, we have another Quint Status inductee: Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport garners Favorite Airport in North America for the fifth year in a row while also earning Favorite Airport Dining for the third consecutive year. Our other winning airports take us on a jaunt around the globe. Singapore Changi Airport is Favorite Airport in Asia. Also in Asia, Incheon Airport wins Favorite Airport

FAVORITE AIRLINE IN NORTH AMERICA 1. Air Canada 2. United Airlines 3. Delta Air Lines 4. American Airlines 5. Alaska Airlines FAVORITE LOW-COST AIRLINE 1. JetBlue 2. Norwegian Air 3. Southwest Airlines 4. Spirit Airlines 5. Frontier FAVORITE AIRLINE IN CENTRAL/ SOUTH AMERICA 1. LATAM Airlines Group 2. Avianca 3. Aerolineas Argentinas 4. Aeromexico 5. Copa Airlines

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al ti on FAVORITE AIRLINE EUROPE r n aIN vor ite In te 1. F a TAP Air Portugal American 2. Brussels AirlinesAirlines CONSECUTIVE YEAR 3. TurkishSECOND Airlines 4. Austrian Airlines 5. British Airways FAVORITE AIRLINE IN AFRICA 1. South African Airways 2. Kenya Airways 3. Air Namibia 4. Air Seychelles 5. Ethiopian Airlines

FAVORITE AIRLINE IN CENTRAL/SOUTH AMERICA: LATAM Airlines Group PHOTO: © LATAM

FAVORITE AIRLINE IN THE MIDDLE EAST 1. Etihad Airways 2. Qatar Airways 3. Emirates 4. EL AL Israel Airlines 5. Royal Jordanian

FAVORITE AIRLINE IN EUROPE:

FAVORITE AIRLINE IN NORTH AMERICA:

TAP Air Portugal

Air Canada

PHOTO: © BOARDING1NOW - DREAMSTIME.COM

PHOTO: © AIR CANADA

FAVORITE AIRLINE IN ASIA 1. China Southern Airlines 2. Asiana Airlines 3. China Airlines 4. Korean Air 5. Hong Kong Airlines FAVORITE AIRLINE IN MEXICO 1. Interjet 2. Aeromexico 3. Volaris 4. VivaAerobus FAVORITE GREEN AIRLINE 1. United Airlines 2. Lufthansa 3. TAP Air Portugal 4. American Airlines 5. Delta Air Lines FAVORITE AIRLINE APP 1. Delta Air Lines 2. Alaska Airlines 3. United Airlines 4. American Airlines 5. Singapore Airlines FAVORITE OVERALL AIRPORT IN THE WORLD 1. Hamad International Airport, Doha 2. Munich Airport 3. Singapore Changi Airport 4. Incheon Airport 5. San Francisco International Airport

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Shopping, and Kansai International Airport is the Favorite Duty-Free Shopping in Asia winner. Helsinki Airport reigns supreme as Favorite Airport in Europe, while Brussels Airport boasts the Favorite Duty-Free Shopping in Europe title. Moving to Africa, Mohammed V International Airport in Casablanca is Favorite Airport in Africa, and Favorite Duty-Free Shopping in Africa goes to Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Mauritius International Airport. We complete our worldwide journey in Central/South America, where Bogotá El Dorado International Airport and Montevideo Carrasco International Airport are tops as Favorite Airport in Central/South America and Favorite Duty-Free Shopping in Central/South America, respectively. You’ve arrived in style; now, where to rest your head, what destination to explore and which services to use? The readers of trazeetravel.com know the best of the best, and the rest of our 2019 winners’ list should be your guide. InterContinental Hotels Group appears on this year’s list three times — InterContinental Hotels & Resorts, Favorite Hotel Chain; intercontinental.com, Favorite Hotel Website; and IHG Rewards Club, Favorite Hotel Rewards Program in the World. Aloft Hotels is twice as nice, winning Favorite Hotel Chain in Asia and Favorite Green Hotel. Two individual hotels earn honors: San Francisco’s Hotel Zephyr is Favorite Individual Hotel, and 21C

Museum Hotel Oklahoma City is Favorite Individual Lifestyle Hotel. Once again we circumnavigate the globe to visit the rest of our hotel winners: Moxy is Favorite Hotel Chain in Europe; Sol by Meliá is Favorite Hotel Chain in Central/ South America; and Jumeirah Hotels & Resorts is Favorite Hotel Chain in the Middle East. This year’s Favorite Hotel Chain in Mexico nod earns Fiesta Americana Hotels & Resorts Quint Status. Several destinations claim their second consecutive wins this year, including Ireland, Favorite Country; Aruba, Favorite Honeymoon Destination; Taiwan, Favorite Adventure Destination; and Asheville, North Carolina, Favorite Foodie City. Two newbies to the list earn accolades: Barcelona, Spain, as Favorite Worldwide City, and Tampa Bay, Florida, as Friendliest City. We round out the rankings with Hertz, Favorite Car Rental Company; GOWAY, Favorite Tour Operator; Tumi, Favorite Luggage Brand; United Explorer Card from Chase, Favorite Credit Card; and U River Cruises, Favorite Cruise Line. Congratulations to the 2019 winners of The Trazees; you’ve clearly made your mark on the wanderlust generation. Something tells us we’ll be hearing much more from and about you as the explorers continue to experience all the world of travel has to offer.

SPECIAL ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS

For the first year, in addition to our reader-voted The Trazees, trazeetravel.com acknowledges those travel companies going above and beyond. Our Special Achievement Awards recognize leaders making a difference in the industry. Congratulations to this year’s honorees! Options are important to travelers, especially busy, on-the-go millennial ones. Additionally, cost and ease are factors to be considered. Ontario International Airport, located in Southern California, understands these objectives, and its growing services and other airport facilities and amenities make it a serious alternative to flying in and out of busy Los Angeles International Airport. For this reason, ONT earned the title of Favorite Alternative Airport this year. In April 2019 passenger volume at the airport grew by 7 percent, a clear indicator travelers are taking notice. In the same vein, speed and convenience, particularly among this FAVORITE ALTERNATIVE AIRPORT: go-now, do-now group Ontario International Airport of travelers, rank high PHOTO: © ONTARIO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT in importance. What innovations will improve and expedite the travel process? In 2019 we think CLEAR made a huge impact and consequently named it Favorite Travel Experience Improvement. Instead of using the traditional method of identification documents to move through airports, CLEAR uses the soon-tobe-ubiquitous method of biometrics, like using eyes and fingertips, to confirm travelers’ identities. PartFAVORITE TRAVEL EXPERIENCE IMPROVEMENT: ners include Delta Air Lines, Major League Baseball CLEAR and Hertz. PHOTO: © CLEAR Following a year where single-use plastics and other environmental concerns were front and center in the public consciousness, we look to highlight a travel provider doing its part to aid the environment. Hurtigruten Cruises is the 2019 honoree for Favorite Environmentally Conscious Cruise Line. Sustainability is part of everything the cruise line does, from working closely with local communities and introducing the world’s first hybrid-powered expedition cruise ships to eliminating single-use plastics and establishing the Hurtigruten Foundation to conserve the polar bear population, among other efforts.

FAVORITE ENVIRONMENTALLY CONSCIOUS CRUISE LINE: Hurtigruten Cruises PHOTO: © HURTIGRUTEN CRUISES

SPECIAL ACHIEVEMENT AWARDS FAVORITE ALTERNATIVE AIRPORT Ontario International Airport FAVORITE TRAVEL EXPERIENCE IMPROVEMENT CLEAR FAVORITE ENVIRONMENTALLY CONSCIOUS CRUISE LINE Hurtigruten Cruises

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13 global airlines. One bright alliance. Partnering with oneworldÂŽ makes coordinating large-scale meetings and events easier than ever. Choose from more than 1,100 destinations in 160 territories across the oneworld alliance, and let us help you take care of the logistics. oneworld eventsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; digital interface makes submitting your event request, managing bookings, and accessing discounted fares so straightforward, that all thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s left to do is fly. Learn more at oneworld.com

FAVORITE AIRPORT IN NORTH AMERICA AND FAVORITE AIRPORT DINING: Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport PHOTO: © THOMAS BARRAT - DREAMSTIME.COM

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ti onNORTH FAVORITE In te r n a IN avor iteAIRPORT F AMERICA American Airlines 1. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta SECOND CONSECUTIVE YEAR International Airport 2. Chicago O’Hare International Airport 3. Pittsburgh International Airport 4. San Francisco International Airport 5. George Bush Intercontinental Airport, Houston FAVORITE AIRPORT IN ASIA 1. Singapore Changi Airport 2. Kansai International Airport 3. Tokyo Haneda International Airport 4. Incheon Airport 5. Taipei Taoyuan International Airport

FAVORITE AIRPORT SHOPPING: Incheon Airport PHOTO: © HAKAN CAN YALCIN - DREAMSTIME.COM

FAVORITE AIRPORT IN EUROPE 1. Helsinki Airport 2. Munich Airport 3. Vienna International Airport 4. Zürich Airport 5. Leonardo da Vinci Fiumicino Airport, Rome FAVORITE AIRPORT IN THE MIDDLE EAST 1. Hamad International Airport, Doha 2. Dubai International Airport 3. Abu Dhabi International Airport 4. Bahrain International Airport 5. Prince Mohammad bin Abdulaziz International Airport, Medina FAVORITE AIRPORT IN AFRICA 1. Mohammed V International Airport, Casablanca 2. King Shaka International Airport, Durban, South Africa 3. Cape Town International Airport 4. Murtala Muhammed International Airport, Lagos, Nigeria 5. Port Elizabeth International Airport FAVORITE AIRPORT IN CENTRAL/ SOUTH AMERICA 1. Bogotá El Dorado International Airport 2. Montevideo Carrasco International Airport 3. Medellín José María Cordova International Airport 4. Quito International Airport 5. Jorge Chávez International Airport, Peru

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FAVORITE AIRPORT DINING 1. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 2. Singapore Changi Airport 3. Hamad International Airport, Doha 4. Chicago O’Hare International Airport 5. Amsterdam Airport Schiphol

FAVORITE DUTY-FREE SHOPPING IN THE MIDDLE EAST 1. Hamad International Airport, Doha 2. Dubai Duty Free 3. Abu Dhabi International Airport 4. Bahrain Duty Free 5. Amman Queen Alia International Airport, Jordan

FAVORITE AIRPORT SHOPPING 1. Incheon Airport 2. Denver International Airport 3. Dubai International Airport 4. Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport 5. Amsterdam Airport Schiphol

FAVORITE DUTY-FREE SHOPPING IN AFRICA 1. Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Mauritius International Airport 2. Addis Ababa Bole International Airport 3. King Shaka International Airport, Durban, South Africa 4. Murtala Muhammed International Airport, Lagos, Nigeria 5. Port Elizabeth International Airport

FAVORITE DUTY-FREE SHOPPING 1. Hamad International Airport, Doha 2. Dubai Duty Free 3. Incheon Airport 4. Amsterdam Airport Schiphol 5. Hong Kong International Airport

FAVORITE DUTY-FREE SHOPPING IN ASIA 1. Kansai International Airport 2. Incheon Airport

3. Singapore Changi Airport 4. Tokyo Haneda International Airport 5. Taipei Taoyuan International Airport FAVORITE DUTY-FREE SHOPPING IN EUROPE 1. Brussels Airport 2. London Heathrow Airport 3. Amsterdam Airport Schiphol 4. Leonardo da Vinci Fiumicino Airport, Rome 5. Charles de Gaulle Airport, Paris FAVORITE DUTY-FREE SHOPPING IN CENTRAL/SOUTH AMERICA 1. Montevideo Carrasco International Airport 2. Bogotá El Dorado International Airport 3. Medellín José María Cordova International Airport 4. Quito International Airport 5. Jorge Chávez International Airport, Peru

FAVORITE HOTEL CHAIN IN MEXICO 1. Fiesta Americana Hotels & Resorts 2. InterContinental Hotels & Resorts 3. Sheraton Hotels & Resorts 4. Westin Hotels & Resorts 5. W Hotels

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FAVORITE INDIVIDUAL HOTEL American Airlines 1. HotelSECOND Zephyr, San Francisco CONSECUTIVE YEAR 2. Ace Hotel Downtown Las Angeles 3. Moxy New Orleans 4. COQ, Paris 5. Freehand Miami, Miami Beach FAVORITE HOTEL CHAIN 1. InterContinental Hotels & Resorts 2. Aloft Hotels 3. Canopy by Hilton 4. Hyatt Place 5. EVEN Hotels FAVORITE INDIVIDUAL LIFESTYLE HOTEL 1. 21C Museum Hotel, Oklahoma City 2. ME Miami 3. INNSIDE New York NoMad 4. COQ Hotel, Paris 5. Hotel Zeta, San Francisco FAVORITE HOTEL WEBSITE 1. intercontinental.com 2. andaz.com 3. marriott.com 4. westin.com 5. hilton.com FAVORITE HOTEL REWARDS PROGRAM IN THE WORLD 1. IHG Rewards Club 2. Marriott Bonvoy 3. Hilton Honors 4. Sol Meliá MAS Rewards 5. Radisson Rewards FAVORITE HOTEL CHAIN IN ASIA 1. Aloft Hotels 2. Moxy 3. W Hotels 4. Hyatt Centric 5. The Ritz-Carlton FAVORITE HOTEL CHAIN IN EUROPE 1. Moxy 2. Hotel Indigo 3. The Ritz-Carlton 4. Canopy by Hilton 5. Westin Hotels & Resorts FAVORITE HOTEL CHAIN IN CENTRAL/ SOUTH AMERICA 1. Sol Meliá 2. Westin Hotels & Resorts 3. Sheraton Latin America 4. Riu Hotels & Resorts 5. Barcelo Hotels & Resorts

FAVORITE HOTEL CHAIN IN THE MIDDLE EAST 1. Jumeirah Hotels & Resorts 2. Aloft Hotels 3. Marriott International 4. InterContinental Hotels & Resorts 5. Address Hotels + Resorts FAVORITE GREEN HOTEL 1. Aloft Hotels 2. Sofitel Hotels & Resorts 3. Hilton Hotels 4. Marriott International 5. Element Hotels FAVORITE COUNTRY 1. Ireland 2. Greece 3. Spain 4. South Africa 5. United Kingdom

FAVORITE INDIVIDUAL HOTEL: Hotel Zephyr

PHOTO: © HOTEL ZEPHYR

FAVORITE WORLDWIDE CITY: Barcelona, Spain

PHOTO: © TOMAS1111 - DREAMSTIME.COM

FAVORITE WORLDWIDE CITY 1. Barcelona, Spain 2. Bangkok, Thailand 3. Singapore 4. Dublin, Ireland 5. Hong Kong FAVORITE HONEYMOON DESTINATION 1. Aruba 2. Greece 3. Cook Islands 4. Turks & Caicos 5. St. Lucia FAVORITE ADVENTURE DESTINATION 1. Taiwan 2. India 3. Thailand 4. New Zealand 5. Austria FAVORITE FOODIE CITY 1. Asheville, North Carolina 2. Chicago, Illinois 3. Rome 4. Paris 5. New York City, New York FRIENDLIEST CITY 1. Tampa Bay, Florida 2. Nashville, Tennessee 3. Chicago, Illinois 4. Atlanta, Georgia 5. Denver, Colorado

FAVORITE CAR RENTAL COMPANY 1. Hertz 2. Sixt 3. National Car Rental 4. Avis 5. Enterprise FAVORITE TOUR OPERATOR 1. GOWAY 2. Abercrombie & Kent 3. Top Deck 4. Contiki 5. Red Savannah FAVORITE LUGGAGE BRAND 1. Tumi 2. Swiss Army 3. Samsonite 4. Delsey 5. TravelPro FAVORITE CREDIT CARD 1. United Explorer Card by Chase 2. American Express Green 3. American Express Gold Delta SkyMiles 4. Venture Card from Capital One 5. Chase Ink

FAVORITE CRUISE LINE 1. U River Cruises 2. Royal Caribbean International 3. Norwegian Cruise Line 4. Princess Cruises 5. Carnival Cruises

QUINT STATUS 2019 FAVORITE AIRLINE IN AFRICA South African Airways FAVORITE AIRPORT IN NORTH AMERICA Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport FAVORITE HOTEL CHAIN IN MEXICO Fiesta Americana Hotels & Resorts

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mice | MINSK

Meet in Minsk The Belarus city emerges as an inviting venue for corporate events. BY SHARON KING HOGE CULTURAL GEM: National Library of Belarus In Minsk PHOTO: © RYHOR BRUYEU - DREAMSTIME.COM

A PRISTINE CITY OF BROAD boulevards where monumental government buildings intermingle with charming restored shops and churches. An urban landscape where welcoming residents stroll along meandering river banks, pausing at picturesque bars and cafés for borscht and sips of local vodka. A metropolis scattered with museums; concert halls; parks; and two grand, rounded edifices housing the Bolshoi Ballet and the Circus. All these attributes add up to modern Minsk, and the capital of the former Soviet republic of Belarus perches on the verge of emerging as a first-class site for visitors.

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The current stability brings relief to a country repeatedly ravaged by war. A buffer state situated geographically at the center of the European continent, it served as a constant battleground first resisting Mongol and Tartar invaders, then enduring violent battles between opposing forces of the East and the West in the War of 1812 and both world wars. Occupied by the Nazis during World War II, violent clashes between the Germans and the encroaching Red Army flattened the city into a pile of rubble. Emerging from the war as a Russian territory, Minsk, fourth-largest city in the former U.S.S.R. (after Moscow, St. Petersburg and Kyiv), was earmarked by Stalin to be a showcase of Russian achievement. Starting from scratch, planners lined broad roads with imposing structures and high-rise apartment blocks in the Stalinist Empire style. Historic landmarks, faithfully rebuilt in antique styles, sometimes startle visitors who discover the Gothic-style castle they’re visiting is merely a few years old. Owing to the legacy of Soviet oppression, Stalin’s name isn’t mentioned these days, but the structures he sponsored survive. Unlike the case of faded gloom in other regions of the former U.S.S.R., these are intact and maintained. Theatergoers linger in vast marble reception halls, shoppers purchase foods and fashions in the updated GUM department store, and browsers window-shop through glistening corridors of fancy new malls. You’ll even hear tourists from China exclaiming how clean they find the city. Russian remains a common language, and strongman Alexander Lukashenko

HISTORIC LANDMARKS: Belarus State Circus (top), and a carved image on a monument at the Second World War Hill of Glory in the Khatyn memorial complex PHOTOS: © MARIUSZ PRUSACZYK DREAMSTIME.COM, © PABLO HIDALGO - DREAMSTIME.COM

UNIQUE VENUES

remains in charge after more than two decades. But while the country has maintained links to Moscow, Minsk, “Europe’s last dictatorship,” is gradually looking West. Tourist-friendly features introduced in preparation for hosting the 2014 World Hockey Championships and second annual European Games in June 2019 offer ongoing aids for outsiders. A new policy allows 30-day visa-free stays for visitors arriving and departing from the gleaming Minsk National Airport, a plus for business travelers and those attending corporate events. Deciphering place names posted in the Cyrillic alphabet can be frustrating, but the efficient metro system announces station stops in English. Museum captions include a line or two of translation, and tour operators provide English-language excursions. Although local currency is the Belarussian ruble (valued around 2.1 to the U.S. dollar), many prices are quoted in euros. Visitors from overseas discover how far their currency stretches. In chain hotels with mobile check-in services and high-speed internet, rooms can run $50–150 per night. A token for the cross-town metro costs about a quarter, and taxis charge $20–25 for the 45-minute drive from the airport. Prices for seats at the opera and circus start at $2–4. Restaurants offer a full range of international cuisine, and it’s unusual to pay more than $30 or $35 for a multicourse meal with local beer, wine or vodka. While international chains like Marriott, Doubletree,

Encompassing the Emir Casino, the ultramodern city hallmark, Hotel Belarus, features an overwhelming mélange of crystal, marble and chandeliers with a variety of meeting spaces on three floors, anchored by a business center fully equipped with computers, faxes and printers. An auditorium with tiered red velvet seats on the ground floor opens off the dazzling lobby where hors d’oeuvres can be laid out for receptions. The Panorama Restaurant on its renowned 22nd-floor Observation Deck can also host special events. hotel-belarus.com

Hilton and Renaissance offer predictable meeting and conference spaces, auditoriums and ballrooms equipped with standard facilities and décor, meeting planners might also consider local options providing a better sense of the city’s unique flavor. The MICE in Minsk Project, a public-private partnership, works with industry leaders to develop the city of Minsk and Belarus as a venue for conferences, congresses, forums, corporate events, team-building, incentives and festivals. War memorials liberally scattered throughout the country display the area’s troubled history, but Belarus is moving ahead. Outlying cranes and construction sites indicate Minsk’s ongoing expansion, not only in area but attitude, as visitors discover the attributes and appeal of its emergence.

The classic Minsk Hotel, a bastion of fading glory, offers an Old-World contrast. Conveniently located square in the middle of the city (adjacent to a vast underground shopping mall and close to the metro), its cozy lobby bar is adorned with autographed photos of the notable film stars and commissars who’ve lounged on the beige leather sofas in the lobby. Guests can enjoy the hammam spa on the ground floor. The hotel offers a variety of meeting room and conference hall options to be rented by the hour. hotelminsk.by

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On the Rise

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE English

Chicago boasts the best of everything for business and leisure travelers. BY HOLLY RIDDLE

DOWN BY THE RIVER: Chicago Riverwalk PHOTO: © CHRISTIAN HINKLE - DREAMSTIME.COM

IF IT SEEMS CHICAGO POPS UP in your favorite lifestyle publications at nearly every turn, you’re not imagining things. The city is rife with rave reviews for its dining, arts and culture, attractions and overall travel experience. Recent accolades include No. 1 culinary destination and one of the top three destinations in the world. And this year Chicago ranked No. 7 among TripAdvisor’s top 25 U.S. travel destinations. The praise is hardly just hype, though. Chicago boasts the data and facts to back up its prestige. Last year, domestic visitation reached a

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record 56.09 million, a 4.4 percent year-over-year increase. The city surpassed Denver as the American destination with the most craft brewpubs and breweries. One of the fastest-growing American cities in terms of hospitality, Chicago boasts thousands upon thousands of hotel rooms and new properties opening nearly every month, many of these boutique lifestyle hotels rather than large international brands. David Whitaker, president and CEO, Choose Chicago, believes many factors are behind the city’s growth.

COMING AND GOING

U.S. citizens flying from another state to Chicago do not need a passport; however, those driving through Canada into Illinois must carry one. Also, by October 2020, all U.S. citizens must present a Real ID in order to board planes for domestic flights. All non-U.S. citizens need a passport and possibly other documents to enter the United States.

“What we’d like to think is whether it’s dining, whether it’s art and culture, whether it’s nightlife, the variety of Chicago as a visitor experience matches the variety of the visitors we attract,” he said. “Cities are sometimes known for one thing, [but] the variety of choice and experiences really helps make Chicago a great American urban destination.” Whitaker points to Chicago’s multitude of easily accessible neighborhoods, many having undergone revitalization in past years to attract new crowds of locals and visitors alike. “[The] riverfront development [is the] best example of what’s happening in Chicago.” Once an industrial, cargo-centric setting for work rather than play, the banks of the Chicago River, following major investments, have become one of the city’s most popular urban spaces. After massive expansion, the Chicago Riverwalk now offers blocks upon blocks of restaurants and bars, public viewing areas, art installations and more. As Whitaker says, a once blighted and neglected space has been transformed into a playground. The McCormick Square neighborhood, thanks to a new convention center, expanded to meet the needs of business travelers with multiple new hotels, event spaces, restaurants and bars and even a hot new blues club. Logan’s Square, Chinatown and Ukrainian Village are also feeling the effects of revitalization efforts. Part of the reason behind this new attention to Chicago’s neighborhoods could be a

LODGING

District this past spring.

HOTEL JULIAN Hotel Julian took over the landmark historic Atlantic Bank Building last year. The boutique luxury hotel, AAA Four Diamond-recognized, offers its own gastro steak bar, About Last Knife.

200 N. Green St. $$$

168 N. Michigan Ave. $$$ THE HOXTON This European lifestyle hotel brand brings its unique style to the United States with its third stateside hotel, opened in Chicago’s Fulton Market

MOXY CHICAGO DOWNTOWN Marriott pairs a vibrant, lively atmosphere with must-have amenities in the form of its Moxy brand. The Chicago outpost sits within walking distance of top attractions. 560 N. LaSalle Drive $$$$ WATER VIEW: Chicago River sightseeing cruise PHOTO: © SEAN PAVONE - DREAMSTIME.COM

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DINING SCENE: Café Bonhomme

DINING CAFÉ BONHOMME Café Bonhomme mimics the opulent European society cafés of yesteryear with its extravagant interior. The menu features Mediterranean cuisine. 180 N. Upper Wacker Drive $$$ KUMIKO A team boasting multiple Michelin stars helms the Kumiko craft bar and kitchen. The menus are limited, with a focus on Japanese heritage. 630 W. Lake St. $$$ TAUREAUX TAVERN The two-story, elevated Frenchinspired restaurant already boasts high praise from local and national press. All-day dining experiences include the option to dine alfresco yearround. 155 W. Van Buren St. $$$

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growing, younger workforce. As Whitaker noted, “The hottest local spot becomes the hottest tourist spot.” He says several high-tech companies expanded into the area, Google leading the pack. McDonald’s moved its headquarters into downtown, and Boeing also relocated its world headquarters to Chicago. With new companies comes a workforce that supports the dining and nightlife scenes. They’re what Whitaker calls the “new, younger, 24-hour, flexible worker. .… The urban campus they work in is also the urban campus they play in.” Young talent also shows up in one industry that impacts the Chicago travel experience directly: the restaurant biz. “The young talent, the chefs and mixologists, they want to come to Chicago because it’s still affordable, and restaurants are the anchors of the community. Because we are a city of neighborhoods, with 77 communities, we’re going to continue getting great young talent coming to Chicago to work in restaurants and then opening their own restaurants,” said Sam Toia, president and CEO, Illinois Restaurant Association. However, youth isn’t an attribute only of Chicago’s up-andcoming workforce; it’s also a characteristic of one of Chicago’s largest travel sectors. For Toia, the millennial travel market impacts his job in a big way. “When Mayor Emanuel came in 2011, there were 39 million visitors to the city of Chicago. Last year we had 57 million visitors. What drives visitors to the city of Chicago [are] conventions, tourism and culinary tourism,” said Toia. “[For] the millennials, it’s all about the experience. … It’s drinks; it’s

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foods. We bring it in events, like Chicago Gourmet or the James Beard Awards. Culinary tourism has taken off. Millennials have grown up with Food Network and the Travel Channel. They want that experience.” Older travelers certainly aren’t left out in the cold, though. Toia affirms there are experiences for every traveler — part of that variety Whitaker mentioned which makes Chicago so attractive to so many. Last year, in addition to domestic arrivals, international visitor arrivals grew by 3.8 percent. Visitors from Brazil increased the most, by 15 percent, followed by visitors from the United Kingdom and Italy. All of which, Whitaker said, are relatively new destinations to see among international arrivals. New direct flights address accessibility issues, as O’Hare International Airport experienced a record year of expansion in 2018, with nearly 50 new routes added. O’Hare surpassed Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport as the U.S. airport with the most flights daily, creating a need for more capacity. In March the airport broke ground on a $1.2 billion expansion of Terminal 5. The expansion, due for a 2021 completion, adds 350,000 square feet for more amenities, lounges and concessions. New gates were added to Terminal 3 in 2018, and a further $8.5 billion expansion is planned for a new global terminal and concourse. The new O’Hare Global Terminal, designed at 2.2 million square feet, will be one of the largest terminals in the country. The project breaks ground in 2023.

CHECKING IN WITH ERIC NORDNESS Senior Vice President, Hickory Street Capital

What prompted the recent changes to the Wrigleyville neighborhood, and how do these changes play into the larger evolution of Chicago as a destination? The Ricketts family, owners of the Chicago Cubs and the Hickory Street Capital real estate development company, embarked on a development plan to fill a void in the Wrigleyville and Lakeview community with a neighborhood gathering place, family-friendly entertainment, diverse dining options, lodging and multipurpose office and meeting spaces to serve businesses and multigenerational audiences. More than just an exciting development, the project aimed to delight not only baseball fans but also tourists and neighborhood residents. Today the neighborhood is driving business from downtown Chicago and more popular destinations to the North Side. This is part of a larger trend in Chicago, welcoming visitors into more residential neighborhoods and to experience the city as locals do. How does the Wrigleyville Campus Development specifically address the current needs of travelers and locals in the area? The Lakeview community for years was home to dozens of latenight bars and pubs that cater to a pre- and post-game economy serving thousands of Cubs fans who trek to games at Wrigley Field each year. As a resident, it was hard to find family-friendly or finedining options to take friends, family or guests. Since its opening, the development has quickly become the must-visit destination in the neighborhood and offers programming and events that contribute to the vibrant Lakeview community like spring festivals, summer movies, winter ice skating, open-air markets and much more. Wrigley Field fans, residents and travelers benefit from this enhanced urban and civic space.

Is there a type of traveler the development serves best/most? Unique in its location and providing a variety of offerings, the development serves a diverse group of travelers including families, business travelers, leisure Chicago visitors or Cubs fans. The development includes an open-air-plaza that offers year-round activities such as Wiggleworms, [a] summer concert series, openair markets, a winter ice rink and game day activities that cater to neighbors, fans and families looking to enjoy all the Wrigleyville neighborhood has to offer. Perfect for business travelers, the American Airlines Conference Center offers nearly 10,000 square feet of flexible space to host guests conference-style or classroomstyle, as well as full dining capabilities. Those looking for lodging can cross the street to the distinctive boutique Hotel Zachary, featuring thoughtful amenities and artistic touches in every guestroom and locally infused dining from the city’s top chefs that serves guests of all types, whether they’re a baseball fan, curious traveler or local in the know.

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AT YOUR LEISURE:

Navy Pier (top left), interactive exhibit at Chicago Museum of Science and Industry (right), and “The Bean’’ at Millennium Park PHOTOS: © SGOODWIN4813 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © CAFEBEANZ COMPANY DREAMSTIME.COM, © JULIENGRONDIN - DREAMSTIME.COM

INFO TO GO

The majority of travelers arrive at O’Hare International Airport, about a halfhour drive from downtown Chicago. Uber service, while available, sometimes requires a long wait (a half hour or more). Affordable train service into the city is easily accessible from the airport’s lower floors but does take about an hour to reach downtown.

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DIVERSIONS Chicago continuously adds new leisure activities to cater to its growing number of domestic and international arrivals. However, some of the best diversions in the city are also the oldest and most well-known. In the summer, Millennium Park offers a lush oasis set right in the heart of downtown, and travelers can’t miss a photo with the iconic sculpture by artist Anish Kapoor known as “The Bean,” more formally named Cloud Gate. In the winter, the park features ice skating, hot chocolate and picturesque views of the snow-laden city. Other outdoor spots for views, as well as dining and drinks, include the Chicago Riverwalk and Navy Pier. Indoor attractions include Chicago’s multiple viewing platforms and observation decks and its host of museums, such as The Field Museum, The Art Institute of Chicago and the Museum of Science and Industry.

JUST THE FACTS

Time zone: GMT -5 Phone code: Country code: 1 City codes: 312, 773, 872 Currency: United States dollar Key industries: Manufacturing, business services, financial services, publishing, food processing

PHOTOS: © NATURSPORTS - DREAMSTIME.COM, © JOHN HALL’S ALASKA/TONY ANDREA, © FADY ADEL - DREAMSTIME.COM, © DANIEL MALINOWSKI - DREAMSTIME.COM, © KATIE SKRZEK, © VALENTIN ARMIANU - DREAMSTIME.COM, © NICOLAS BATES, © THE ADRIANNE PHOTO, © KLODIEN - DREAMSTIME.COM

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Fly High in Luxury New business-class service brings the ultimate in comfort to LATAM passengers.

IN AN INDUSTRY OF CONSTANT INNOVATION and evolution, LATAM Airlines continues to make strides in advancing its own services. Ranging from seats and arrangement to a revamped culinary service, LATAM Airlines is bringing innovation and excellence to South American travel. LATAM took its most recent steps into the future in March, when the airline unveiled the fruit of a $400 million investment to make the premier South American airline the best it has ever been. The overhaul is ongoing and will take a few year to complete; however, the first cabins will start operating international routes from LATAM’s Lima hub to destinations in South America (including Santiago, Buenos Aires, São Paulo and Guayaquil), North America (Miami, Los Angeles and Mexico City) and Europe (Madrid and Barcelona). By the end of the retrofit, more than 200, or about two-thirds of LATAM’s global fleet, will sport the new interiors. The enhancements are extensive across the entirety of the aircraft, with the most pronounced changes coming to the airline’s Boeing 767 business-

class cabin. The airline asked for feedback and opinions from frequent business-class travelers, so every change is one advocated for by customers. The investment will keep some of LATAM’s oldest planes in the sky a little longer, allowing the airline to focus on improving service throughout instead of deciding when, and which, planes to retire. “We wanted the passenger to be at the heart of every decision in the development of our cabins, so we talked to them and asked them what they wanted,” explained Claudia Sender, vice president, customers, LATAM Airlines Group, shortly before the inaugural flight in March. The most immediately noticeable changes are in business class. The new 1-2-1 configuration gives every single passenger direct access to the aisle. There are no more instances where passengers have to wake seatmates to access the lavatories or stretch in the aisles. Direct-aisle access is a feature that becomes immensely important on long-haul intercontinental flights stretching eight hours and longer.

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“Our new cabins will enable us to offer an industry-leading onboard experience with more options, flexibility and personalization to better serve each and every passenger,” said Sender. “Technology is alive, and we need to stay on top of our game.” That personalization stretches further than simply offering customers aisle access, however. The new seats reflect the aesthetic of South America — from the deserts of Chile to the marble of the Andes mountains — all the natural wonders of the continent are represented. The new business cabin is already onboard select Boeing 767s. In the coming years, the new accommodations will come to LATAM’s entire wide-body fleet, including the Boeing 777s, 787-9s and the Airbus A3501000, still to be delivered. Looking more closely, the custom-designed Thompson seats offer more privacy than business travelers ever enjoyed onboard LATAM. Couples traveling can request to be seated together in the middle two seats. The space features ample room for personal items, as well as an 18-inch screen for entertainment during the flight. A less physical transformation is coming to the business-class service. While till in development, updates to LATAM’s premium service are expected to debut later this year. With so many overnight flights, LATAM recognizes the concern of passengers to arrive well rested and ready to take on the next hurdle. LATAM is actively working to revamp the culinary service to induce more restful sleep while simultaneously creating

fewer disturbances for passengers from flight staff. New bedding and mattresses also serve to increase comfort and restfulness during flight. “Onboard experience has a direct impact on airline choice and passenger satisfaction, and we are confident that our new cabins will help us to consolidate our position as the leading airline group in Latin America, complementing our unrivalled network of destinations in the region with more than 140 destinations across 26 countries and five continents,” said Manuel van Oordt, general manager, LATAM Airlines Peru, on the day of

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the inaugural flight. The rest of the aircraft is not neglected through these upgrades. Economy service on the newly refurbished aircraft now offers passengers the option of LATAM+ seats, offering passengers more comfort than a standard economy fare without the cost of a full business-

class upgrade. The new seats offer about four more inches of extra legroom, 40 percent more pitch, an available footrest in certain aircraft models, an exclusive overhead compartment, priority boarding and first deplaning privileges. The evolution of LATAM’s aircraft has been in progress since August 2018, when the airline announced enhancements were on the way. Some of the highest priority changes included giving passengers ample room to work, reducing interruptions from the flight attendants and giving passengers the privacy they desire. South America is packed with destinations ripe for exploring by way of LATAM’s new offerings. Peru is home to some of the world’s most remarkable ruins and history by way of Machu Picchu. A flight into Lima (LIM) followed by some quick regional transfers, trains and hiking sets your whole group up for an excellent sightseeing adventure. When you arrive well-rested from your flight in LATAM’s business class, you will

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feel more than ready to take on the additional travel and hiking to reach the historic ruins. If you’re more of a foodie, Lima proper is the place for you. One of the culinary capitals of South America, Lima is home to many world-class restaurants. Get a meal unlike any other when you visit Gaston y Astrid. LATAM also flies to Brazil, Argentina, Chilé and a host of other South American countries, each with its own charm and attractions. Argentina is full of urban history in Buenos Aires, where travelers can visit the grave of Eva Péron and lively street markets. On the border between Brazil and Argentina, guests can once again utilize the rest they got onboard LATAM as they brave the rainforest for a chance to view Iguazu Falls in all its glory. Chilé offers great access to the Easter Islands and spectacular beaches along its coast. Whether you’re traveling to South America for business, leisure or both, there is no better way to get there than by way of LATAM’s new business cabin and service. LATAM flies out of New York City (JFK), Los Angeles (LAX), Miami (MIA), Orlando (MCO), Boston (BOS) and Las Vegas (LAS). When you fly LATAM’s business class, you will arrive well-rested, on time and ready for whatever your trip has in store.

stateside | ANCHORAGE

Awesome Anchorage Enticing changes lure business and leisure visitors to Alaska’s center of commerce. BY MEGAN HILL GLOWING WELCOME: Downtown Anchorage

ANCHORAGE THRIVES as the center of commerce for the state of Alaska. A number of improvements on the horizon and already in the works will further enhance the city as a center for business and leisure travel. “Anchorage is a great destination for business travelers, but some of the city’s future plans could make this great destination even greater,” says Christopher M. Schutte, director, Office of Economic & Community Development, Municipality of Anchorage. While Anchorage struggled with job loss for the last three years, 2019 is projected to see a trend reversal, with 0.2 percent job growth. “Anchorage remains an exciting place to do business as the effects of the Alaska recession have slowed. Our average hourly earnings are

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now ranked 10th in the nation, and we project job growth in the visitor industry, construction employment and health care-related fields,” Schutte says. A record number of cruise ship passengers in 2019 will boost the leisure and hospitality industries. Many travelers first interact with Anchorage through its Ted Stevens Anchorage International Airport, serving more than 5.6 million passengers annually. The airport ranks No. 2 in the United States for landed weight of cargo aircraft and among the top five in the world for cargo throughput, with more than 2.79 million metric tons of air cargo moved each year. The airport is a powerful economic engine for Anchorage, generating 15,577 jobs at the airport itself and throughout the wider community — amounting to one in 10 jobs in Anchorage. All told, the airport generates more than $1 billion in annual earnings. Among the most exciting leisure upgrades in the works is the popular Campbell Creek Trail, which will improve wayfinding signage to help users navigate the city. Other updates are planned for several popular parks, including Elderberry Park downtown, Dave Rose Park in east Anchorage, Cuddy Family Park in midtown near “hotel row,” and Tikishla Park near the

University-Medical District. Business travelers will have more lodging choices as new hotels come online. Two new additions in Midtown are the $15 million, 148-room Hyatt Place AnchorageMidtown near the edge of Cuddy Family Park and the 144-room Hyatt House Anchorage. The city is also renovating its downtown Transit Center and an as-yet unbranded 120-room boutique hotel attached to an existing eight-story public parking garage. Heralding exciting dining changes at the Anchorage Museum, Laura Cole will be overseeing the kitchen at Muse, the museum’s full-service restaurant and café. Cole, a Top Chef alumna, is a 2019 James Beard Award semifinalist for her work at 229 Parks Restaurant and Tavern outside of Denali National Park. Anchorage eagerly anticipates her contributions to the local dining scene. On a neighborhood level, a number of additions make Anchorage’s enclaves more enticing than ever. South Anchorage’s neighborhoods in particular are experiencing a renaissance, driven in large part by a boom in craft breweries. Longtime favorite King Street Brewing Co. opened a larger facility with a restaurant recently, and Turnagain Brewing opened as the 12th brewery in the Municipality of Anchorage. The newcomer focuses on Belgian-style beers, with a lineup ranging from an Alaskan raspberry lambic to a saison and Flanders-style red. Anchorage’s Spenard neighborhood recently opened Writer’s Block Bookstore, intended as a gathering place for the city’s literati. And a new food hall is in the works from the owners of neighborhood favorite Bear Tooth Theatrepub. A new pop-up restaurant called La Potato will soon open on Spenard Road, too. This spring, the Alaska Public Lands Information Center unveiled its remodel. The renovation adds new permanent exhibits on Alaska’s flora,

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fauna, geology and history, and tells visitors about outdoor opportunities. The additions simulate walking across a glacier, with lifelike recreations of the landscape. Travelers can stop by for guidance on planning outdoor adventures from National Park Service rangers who staff the information desk. Also new: tour options around Anchorage for land and water exploration. This past winter, Snowhook Adventure Guides added new snowmobile and fat tire bike tours to its lineup of dog mushing excursions. On Prince William Sound, Phillips Cruises and Tours expanded with a new vessel, Bravest, offering day cruises from the port town of Whittier. The high-speed catamaran, the company’s third vessel on the sound, can carry 285 passengers. Lazy Otter Charter also has a new boat in Voyager, a 46-foot, 30-passenger catamaran sailing out of Whittier on half- and full-day cruises.

Head north to a string of worthwhile stops including the Eagle River Nature Center, with interpretive programs and hikes to suit all abilities. Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife, including moose, beavers and spawning salmon — all visible from the boardwalks. From there, track back toward town for a stop in Arctic Valley, a secluded area in the Chugach Mountains with short day hikes sporting views of the city skyline, Denali and the Eagle River Valley. In late summer the area is popular for wild blueberry picking. Opt for a road trip south of the city on the Seward Highway, along Cook Inlet. The route, both an All-American Road and a National Scenic Byway, offers plenty in the way of mountain and water views. As you hug the edge of Turnagain Arm, look for beluga whales, Dall’s sheep and bald eagles. You might stop in Girdwood for a walk on a paved trail through the temperate rainforest to hidden waterfalls, or opt for a flightseeing tour above the glaciers. Glacier trekking tours are also a possibility here. Continuing to Portage, try the Trail of Blue Ice for easy access to glacier views, and visit the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center. Out of Whittier, you can book a cruise on Prince William Sound.

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9–5 | TORONTO

Global Spirit Toronto serves a blend of arts, food and culture from around the world. BY ARI BENDERSKY SHOW TIME: View of Toronto from Hotel X (above) and Hotel X movie theater (right) PHOTOS: © HOTEL X

FEW CITIES MANIFEST the broad impact and influence of global cultures as does Toronto. Canada’s largest city claims 130 languages and dialects, with 50 percent of the city’s population born outside of Toronto. With that influx of diverse immigrant communities comes a delicious smattering of food, art and diverse culture you can’t help but explore. Toronto welcomes travelers from all over the world. Unless you’re a U.S. citizen or already have a valid visa to enter Canada, you’ll need to apply for Electronic Travel Authorization, which you can do online for about CAD7 (about USD5). Most flights arrive at Toronto Pearson International Airport. You can opt for a taxi or rideshare into the city or take the Union-Pearson Express train, a dedicated rail line between the airport and downtown Toronto. It leaves every 15 minutes and costs up to CAD12.35 (about USD9). But if you can fly Porter Airlines or Air Canada into Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport, do so. It’s the easiest and closest airport to downtown Toronto, and you can be in the heart of the city and close to your meetings, hotel or

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lunch reservation within minutes of landing. If you’re traveling to Toronto for business, you may have a conference at either Metro Toronto Convention Centre or Enercare/Beanfield Centre. Both state-ofthe-art convention centers are conveniently located downtown, where you can book a room at the new Hotel X. This sleek, modern facility offers spectacular waterfront views from most rooms and a slew of luxe amenities including the threelevel rooftop SkyBar, a 250-seat cinema, tennis and squash courts, on-premise dining and the Guerlain Spa. Or head a few blocks off the lakefront toward Old Toronto and the Entertainment District and book a room at one of the many upscale hotels such as The St. Regis, The Ritz-Carlton or the new Bisha Hotel. This super-sexy hotel, set in the shadow of Toronto’s iconic CN Tower, features black marble, etched gold and crushed velvet in the lobby; plush furniture; modern

art throughout; and a rooftop pool — even an entire floor designed by rocker Lenny Kravitz. Get a bit away from the downtown congestion and head about 20 minutes north to posh Yorkville, a quaint village within the city where you can stay at the Park Hyatt, InterContinental or Four Seasons. Dine at intimate eateries like ONE Restaurant, with outside seating on the tree-lined patio, or Kasa Moto for Japanese dishes on its rooftop. Enjoy a brunch meeting at Café Landwer or hit the classic Sotto Sotto for Italian fare and the occasional celebrity sighting. To get a real feel for the depth of Toronto’s global diversity, you need to get into the neighborhoods and seek out the various immigrant enclaves. Start at Kensington Market. Unlike the vibrant, indoor, 200-year-old St. Lawrence Market food hall in Old Toronto, Kensington is an eclectic bohemian neighborhood with a mix of casual restaurants like The Dirty Bird for chicken and waffles, JamaicanItalian hybrid Rasta Pasta, King’s Café for Asian with plenty of vegan options, fantastic Chilean at Jumbo Empanadas, Vietnamese noodle deliciousness at Phở Hưng, Seven Lives for some of the best Baja tacos around and so much more. Plan to spend some time wandering around all the shops before you pop over to adjacent Chinatown not only for Chinese fare but also Thai, Vietnamese and other delicacies at restaurants and street stalls. If you want a more upscale experience, try Lee, a Chinese-French spot from acclaimed chef Susur Lee a short distance from Chinatown in Old Toronto. Need more ways to explore the city’s diversity? There’s Roncevalles for a taste of Poland, Little Italy, Koreatown, Little Portugal, Greektown, Little India or the historic Distillery District. There you’ll get a taste of 19th-century Toronto with cobblestone streets, refurbished factory buildings and a former whiskey distillery. You’ll find hip restaurants and shops as well as modern brewpubs and the Spirit of York Distillery, producing quality gin, vodka and other specialty spirits like aquavit. Time to shop? Skip the big-box chains and head to the trendy Ossington Strip, a street lined with charming, independently owned boutiques like Jonathan + Olivia, gravitypope, Annie Aime, Reigning Champ, Detroit import Shinola and other cute places to pop into and poke around. If your work schedule allows you to indulge your love of sports, Toronto is one of the best professional sports cities in the world. You can get year-round live sports between the Raptors, Argonauts, Blue Jays, Maple Leafs, FC and Wolfpack, no matter whether you like basketball, baseball, soccer, rugby or hockey. And Toronto has a thriving gay culture. While historically much of the action centers around The Village (aka the Gaybourhood), you can find LGBTQ+ influences all over the city, especially during the annual 10-day Pride celebration in June, which seemingly the entire city comes

BUSINESS AND LEISURE: Hotel X SkyBar (above), and Kensington Market (left) PHOTOS: © HOTEL X, © SPIROVIEW INC. - DREAMSTIME.COM

out to support. Whether you come to Toronto for a quick business meeting or extended conference, this welcoming city begs you to stay and explore. You’ll be happy you did.

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after 5 | SINGAPORE

Multicultural Magic From happy hour to the wee hours, Singapore sparkles with creative cocktail and fashion hot spots. BY ELYSE GLICKMAN ALTHOUGH SINGAPORE was not officially an independent republic until 1965, its history as a hub for international trade can be traced back to the Middle Ages because of its strategic location on the Melaka Straits. By the 19th century, when under British rule, it had evolved into an alluring destination appealing to affluent travelers. At that time, the Raffles Hotel (reopening later this year after an extensive remodel) appealed to discerning globetrotters with its exclusive features like electric lights, powered ceiling fans and The Long Bar. The bar occupies a hallowed place in cocktail history as birthplace of the Singapore Sling, a fruity gin cocktail that invited women guests to join the previously men-only party. In September 2018 The Long Bar reopened with updated versions of the Sling and its other cocktail staples. In the same spirit, bars at newer luxury hotels evoke the pleasures of jet-set travel. The Six Senses Maxwell and Duxton properties’ lounges tap into eclectic influences, from literary heavyweights to Chinese herbal medicine. The Mandarin Oriental, Singapore’s MO Bar built its menus around exotic Asian destinations, while InterContinental Singapore’s Idlewild celebrates the golden age of air travel. At The Capitol Kempinski Hotel, The Bar at 15 Stamford dedicates itself to the world’s finest rums, delivering complex signature cocktails and flights with chocolate pairings. LAVO, boasting postcard views of the city, sits atop the Marina Bay Sands — one of the city’s most recognizable buildings. Neighborhood bar fans will find gems everywhere, from stately “shop house” districts to business towers and ethnic enclaves Kampong Glam and Chinatown (all LGBTQ+-friendly). While some are justifiably ranked on the World’s 50 Best Bars and Asia’s 50 Best Bars lists (28 HongKong Street, Tippling Club, Atlas), others are worth checking out for funky menus and wholly original décor (Employees Only, Jigger & Pony, The Old Man, Native). Restaurants stirring Singapore’s rich ethnic melting pot also must be sampled. Candlenut, Folklore and The Coconut Club elevate dishes from Singapore’s diverse ethnic groups into unforgettable culinary experiences. Informal sit-down places Keng Eng Kee and Jumbo Seafood allow customers to dine like

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SINGAPORE SIZZLES: MO BAR at Mandarin Oriental, Singapore (above), and Atlas (left) PHOTOS: © MO BAR AT MANDARIN ORIENTAL, SINGAPORE, © ATLAS

a local without hawker market crowds. The most interesting fashion statement pieces to wear out on the town may be found at Design Orchard. The intimate emporium showcases fashion, jewelry, accessories, fragrances and, yes, cool stuff for the home bar and living room from up-andcoming designers. You can unearth other chic, one-off boutiques along Haji Lane in the Kampong Glam neighborhood.

ng ingli m r Inte , ay Mal e, es Chin and an Indi ian as Eur es make ur e cult ore on p ga Sin world’s he of t ruly tt mos ational rn inte ations. in dest

neighborhoods | BERLIN

All Together Now Reunited for 30 years, Berlin celebrates distinct local individuality. BY IRENE RAWLINGS

oing ad ‘G from o l n w Do rlin’ in Be It includes l a c o L e. erlin.d t visitb restauran d n a bar ions endat ch m m o c ea re als in c o l from hood. or neighb DAY AND NIGHT: Charlottenburg Palace (left), and Monkey Bar (right) PHOTOS: © KATATONIA82 - DREAMSTIME.COM, © STEPHAN LEMKE

DENMARK

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THIS YEAR, BERLIN celebrates the 30th anniversary of the fall of the infamous Berlin Wall. Reunited, Berlin’s 12 boroughs each boast distinct neighborhoods. Although they border each other, CharlottenburgWilmersdorf and Mitte (my hands-down favorites), divided by the Wall for so long, even now seem worlds apart. Traditional and sophisticated, CharlottenburgWilmersdorf is located in the heart of former West Berlin — now called City West. A district of old villas and tree-lined streets, it also hosts the famous Tiergarten (zoo). Visit the Baroque Charlottenburg Palace to see the crown jewels and royal silver. Stop for a drink at Monkey Bar overlooking the Tiergarten — atop the sleek and fun 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin. Notable quotables stay at the classically Art Deco Waldorf Astoria with its flawless service, floor-to-ceiling windows and swanky Lang Bar (named after film director Fritz Lang). Step back in time to the Bohemian-but-polished Literaturhaus Berlin for cappuccino and strudel in the garden café; stay for an evening poetry reading. Visit Museum Bergrun (Picasso, Matisse and more than 60 incandescent works by Paul Klee) and, just across the

street, Museum Scharf-Gerstenberg, famous for its collection of Surrealists. For photography, see the Museum of Photography (more than 160,000 photographs from 1868 to today) and observe up-to-the-moment modern exhibits at C/O Gallery next door. Languishing in East Berlin until the Wall came down, Mitte is now Berlin’s political, cultural and geographic center. Thanks to the influx of money for rebuilding since reunification, run-down buildings converted into cafés, bars, galleries and restaurants. A must: Mad Men-style Newton Bar, where photographer Helmut Newton’s giant nudes adorn the walls. Reserve a table at Borchardt for the acclaimed schnitzel. One of Mitte’s buzziest streets is Auguststrasse, home to ultra-modern galleries, like KW Institute for Contemporary Art and Me Collectors Room, and, hidden away in shaded courtyards, some of the city’s finest Third Wave coffee shops. Don’t miss The Barn, a Berlin institution. Jüdische Mädchenschule (Jewish School for Girls) was built in the 1930s and now houses Michelin starrated Pauly Saal restaurant Mogg (serving killer New York deli-style pastrami) and three über-contemporary art galleries in high-ceilinged former classrooms.

friends & family | NAIROBI

A Wild Time

Bring the kids to Nairobi and make memories to last a lifetime. BY RICHARD NEWTON

IS KENYA A SUITABLE DESTINATION for kids? It was a question my parents asked themselves in the early 1970s when we moved there. They made sure I was aware of all potential hazards, and I was scared of everything: the wildlife, the people, the food. But soon I engaged with the country to such an extent that every return visit has been a homecoming. My parents were right to warn me of the dangers. This is no glorified version of The Lion King. Wild animals are a potential threat, and on safari it is

important to stick to the rules. Some safari camps are unfenced, and children should be supervised by adults at all times. But in Nairobi there are opportunities to get up close and personal with Africa’s most famous species. One essential stop on any family vacation here is the Sheldrick Wildlife Trust Orphanage, founded by the late Dr. Daphne Sheldrick in memory of her husband, David, one of Kenya’s first game wardens. Although the orphanage cares for a wide range of young animals for eventual release into the wild, its most famous residents are its elephants. The orphanage, located on the edge of Nairobi National Park, opens for an hour to the public every day, 11 a.m.–noon. It offers a chance to see and learn about the current residents. But if you adopt an animal (details on the orphanage’s website), you can visit by appointment at 5 p.m. (book as far in advance as possible to avoid disappointment). After feeding time — a chaotic event, when the baby elephants jostle to be bottle-fed by their keepers — adopters are escorted around the nursery to meet the animals. What does it feel like to stroke an elephant? You’ll find out.

INFO TO GO

International flights arrive at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, nine miles southeast of downtown. Taxis offer fixed rates; pay at the taxi booth in the arrivals hall. The ride to downtown will cost around $20 and should take 40 minutes (depending on traffic). Many downtown hotels offer minibus shuttle services bookable in advance.

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IT’S A STRETCH:

LODGING ANGA AFRIKA LUXURY BOUTIQUE CAMP Most kids love camping. This is a camp their parents will love, too, with all the style and romance of a remote safari camp minutes from the city. Rhino Park Road, Karen $$$$ FAIRMONT THE NORFOLK HOTEL The Norfolk has been a Nairobi institution since 1904. For parents, the echoes of Out of Africa are

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the selling point. For kids, there’s a pool, dedicated menus and a babysitting service. Harry Thuku Road $$$$ GIRAFFE MANOR The Manor is located beside the Giraffe Centre; giraffes roam the gardens and at breakfast often stick their long necks in through the windows. Book early — there’s a waiting list. Gogo Falls Road, Nairobi $$$$

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The focus is on another gentle giant at the Giraffe Centre, located in the suburb of Langata, 12 miles southwest of downtown Nairobi. Open 9 a.m.–5 p.m. daily, the center houses a herd of roaming giraffes. A special raised platform enables visitors to view the animals eye to eye — an unforgettable privilege. On the center’s nature trail you can spot a wide variety of birds and small mammals including squirrels, antelope and warthogs. After the orphanage and Giraffe Centre, the next step is a proper safari. Uniquely for a capital city, Nairobi features a national park on its doorstep. Just five miles south of downtown you enter an expansive wilderness in which wild lions roam free, feasting on zebra, buffalo and wildebeest. This makes the park especially suited to kids who prefer to return to the comforts of modern life by bedtime. While the habitat isn’t suitable for elephants, with luck during a minibus tour you might see rhinos, hippos, lions, leopards or cheetahs, as well as abundant herds of grazers. Diversity also defines the people of Kenya, with 43 distinct ethnic groups, each with its own language and customs. At Bomas of Kenya, a cultural village southwest of downtown, you can discover Kenya’s tribes in all their richness. The village includes examples of the different tribal building styles as well as regular performances of music and dance. Learn more about Kenya’s heritage — both human and natural — at Nairobi National Museum, close to downtown. Combine a visit with the adjacent Snake Park, where you’ll see black mambas, puff adders and cobras. Fortunately, one rarely encounters these deadly snakes in the wild. No visit to any country is complete without sampling the local food. The main staple is ugali, a form of cornmeal porridge that looks like mashed potatoes and tastes like wallpaper paste. It is usually served with relish, a tangy sauce made with meat or vegetables. More accessible dishes reflect Kenya’s past: Arabs, Indians and the British all influenced the country’s cuisine. Sample

COLORFUL NAIROBI: Woman preparing ugali (top), and Maasai souvenirs (bottom)

DINING THE CARNIVORE Certainly not a place for vegetarians. This openair restaurant is famed for its all-you-can-eat meat buffet, with the meat carved directly onto your plate. When you’re done, lower the flag in the center of your table. Langata Road $$$ HABESHA Kenyan local cuisine is an acquired taste (milk with cow’s blood, anyone?), but nearby Ethiopia offers a wide range of tasty dishes. Nairobi boasts plenty of Ethiopian restaurants. Habesha (with two properties) is my favorite.

common street foods such as samosas (Indian pastry), savory doughnuts and roasted corncobs. One issue in modern Kenya my parents didn’t have to contend with: terrorism. The August 7th Memorial Park downtown poignantly commemorates the 218 victims of the U.S. Embassy bombing in 1998. Tragically, other major incidents in recent years targeted public places. Although chances of getting caught in an attack are low, it is worth discussing the threat, and children should carry with them family contact details in case they are separated. Nairobi is so colorful and stimulating, abstract worries soon recede. You and your family will spend every day making memories that will last a lifetime. At Kazuri Bead Factory in the suburb of Karen, you can acquire physical souvenirs. A factory tour takes you through the process of turning raw stone and clay into a glittering array of shiny beads, incorporated in a dazzling variety of products (necklaces, earrings, sandals and bags) for sale in the shop.

For serious souvenir hunting, visit Village Market in the suburb of Gigiri. This extensive retail and entertainment complex includes the Maasai Market (great for fabrics and handicrafts) and more than 150 shops. A food court also offers international and local cuisine. I went to school in Kenya, but Kenya itself was my education. Throughout my childhood I accumulated the experiences that shaped my life. For any child, a visit to this vivid country will have a lasting impact.

ailway 9 as a r 9 8 1 in d ideal ish the Brit te, prove a y m b li d c e l d o t o Foun ependen ith its c al of ind airobi, w it N p , a t c . o n p s o e A li d il pital. n of 4 m lonial ca opulatio p a for a co s t s now boa Kenya, it JULY 2019

United Nations Crescent, Gigiri; Argwings Kodhek Road $$$ TIN-TIN RESTAURANT One of my biggest treats as a boy, this Chinese restaurant since relocated and changed its name, but it still serves the best Chinese food in Kenya. Lower Ground Floor, Kenyatta International Conference Centre $$$

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bucket list | WADI RUM

Call of the Desert Immerse in the wonders of Wadi Rum’s vast, dramatic landscape. BY ELLEN CLARK

BEDOUIN STYLE: (Left to right) Wadi Rum camp, Wadi Rum before a storm, and a Bedouin cook at Captain’s Camp in Wadi Rum PHOTOS: © ELLEN CLARK

WADI RUM! Just the name sounds mysterious. Couple this with miles of golden-red-tinted sand stretching in every direction, camels, Bedouins, violent storms and fiery sunrises, and I’m beyond intrigued. For starters, I love deserts. There’s something about the sand’s surprises that makes me want to investigate further, and the vastness and deceptively uncomplicated landscape calms my soul. So what is Wadi Rum? one might logically ask. A wadi is a valley, ravine or channel, dry except in the rainy season. The rum descriptor is guessed to have come from an Aramaic root meaning “high” or “elevated.” Also known as “The Valley of the Moon,” this 183,000-acre area of dramatic desert landscape in southern Jordan comprises a range of narrow gorges, natural bridges, towering cliffs, massive landslides, caverns and miles of shifting sand. Petroglyphs and other archaeological remains attest to 12,000 years of human occupation and interaction with the environment. More recently, it was the place where Prince Faisal Bin Hussein and T.E. Lawrence (aka Lawrence of Arabia) based their headquarters during the Arab Revolt against the Ottomans in World War I. Much of the 1962 David Lean epic movie, Lawrence of Arabia, was shot at Wadi Rum, declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2011. Today Wadi Rum is home to the Zalabia Bedouin who, shrewdly,

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figured the area would appeal to adventure travelers. They developed eco-adventure tourism into a profitable business, now their main source of income. The area proves one of Jordan’s important tourist destinations and attracts an increasing number of foreign travelers, particularly trekkers, climbers and those on camel and horse safaris. Our group consisted of five photographers looking to come away with some amazing desert images. Our first stop was Captain’s Desert Camp, one of the Bedouin camps at Wadi Rum that caters to visitors. This became our home in the desert. About 5,000 Bedouins call Wadi Rum home, many living in traditional goat hair tents called beit al-sha’ar, translated literally as “house of hair.” We would be sleeping in similar tents. The line of black-, white- and red-striped tents nestled up to sandstone outcroppings at Captain’s Camp shared a large common area. Richly colored goat hair rugs and blankets with geometric designs covered the floors, and grass matting served as walls. As our hosts cooked our lunch in a pit, we all went out to watch it emerge from the makeshift underground oven. Then we sat down to a feast of succulent roasted vegetables and chicken and a full assortment of salads, plus hummus and pita bread, topped off with a cup of mint tea. Needing a little activity after all this food, we got into four-wheeldrive vehicles and took off across the desert. We clambered up sandstone

al Kilmer. film starring V 0 0 0 2 e th t,’ s in ‘Red Plane surface of Mar e th as ed us Wadi Rum was

outcroppings and watched as the sun set over the miles of undulating sand. I find night in the desert a magical time, and it seemed even more magical at Wadi Rum, silent except for the sound of a gentle breeze, the tents silhouetted against a black sky full of twinkling, jewel-like stars. Basic cot-like beds were piled high with blankets to keep out the cold. I thought twice before crawling out of my warm cocoon and heading for the toilet tent in the middle of the night. Waking up to a rosy glow in the sky, I reluctantly abandoned my warm bed in favor of watching the sun rise. It was cold, with a stiff wind blowing, but hey, I was in Wadi Rum. I could get warm later. After a hearty breakfast and more mint tea, we climbed into the bed of a well-worn 4x4 truck and headed out across the sand. It was neither a warm nor a smooth ride. Wrapping scarves around our heads and faces and holding on for dear life, we crossed miles of sand with a Jordanian Mario Andretti at the wheel. When we spotted camels and drivers we all yelled

to Mario to stop and let us out. With the help of our Jordanian guide, we convinced a camel driver with his grandson in tow to pose for a few photos as he led his camels across the sand. We made another stop to check out rock faces covered in petroglyphs and then scrambled around the remains of a building where T.E. Lawrence once stayed. Our next stop was our ultimate destination, Jabal Umm Fruth Rock Bridge. One of several natural arches in the Wadi Rum, it features impressive drops on both sides, and a five-minute climb gets you to the top. A young Jordanian boy walked across the surface while we photographed, and our accommodating guide posed in traditional garb on the top of the bridge. By late afternoon we were sitting in a local’s house drinking cups of the ever-present mint tea before we headed back to the camp. Short but memorable, my trip to Wadi Rum exceeded my expectations. Ancient history seemed infused into the barren desert landscape, kicking my senses into overdrive. It is a place I’m not likely to forget.

INFO TO GO

Though Wadi Rum is a year-round destination, March–May and September–November prove the most temperate months for full-day explorations. To get to Wadi Rum, a taxi ride from Aqaba takes about an hour. Buses also connect from other locations in Jordan. The best way to see the area, especially if you have a limited amount of time, is in a 4x4 vehicle with a local guide. Other choices are on foot or by camel. Options for spending the night in Wadi Rum vary from luxury glamping to sleeping bags in the open air. Bedouin-style camping, like that at Captain’s Camp, typically offers tent cabins housing two to six people and shared bathroom facilities with solarheated water. The communal area normally includes a kitchen, indoor dining area and outdoor lounge space around a fire. You can also stay with a Bedouin host family for a night in their beit al-sha’ar (a tent made from strips of goat hair or sheep’s wool), or you can rough it with bivouac camping under the stars.

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kicking back | JEJU ISLAND

Island of Delights Romance to relaxation to rustic nature, Jeju Island surprises at every turn. BY RICHARD NEWTON INFO TO GO

Flights arrive at Jeju International Airport on the north coast, three miles west of Jeju City. Bus transfers from the airport to the tourist resorts on the south coast take 80–90 minutes. Alternatively, regular ferry services to Jeju run from the mainland ports of Mokpo and Busan. The crossing takes 4.5 hours from Mokpo and 12 hours from Busan.

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IT’S FAMILIAR BUT DIFFERENT, old but radically new. We’ve seen it before, but never so vibrant, so vivid, so immersive, so romantic. It’s a painting by Gustav Klimt, freed from its frame, sliding across the walls, warping, magnifying. Where are we? We’re in the middle of Klimt’s The Kiss. Where are we exactly? We’re in a bunker on the island of Jeju off the southwest coast of South Korea. Confused? Get used to that. This island is never quite what you think it to be. Rustic traditions coexist with flashy modernity. Plastic expanses of hothouse farms stretch inland from a dramatic coastline dotted with glossy tourist resorts. An island fringed by gentle flatlands is dominated at its center by Korea’s tallest mountain. Even the climate is subverted: The nearby mainland endures freezing winters and sweltering summers, while Jeju remains relatively mild year-round.

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Thanks to its scenery and weather, Jeju has long been the top domestic destination for South Koreans. The island’s population of 660,000 is supplemented by more than 15 million tourists each year, including increasing numbers from China (Jeju being one of the few places in the world the Chinese can visit without a visa). As with any tourist hub, new attractions always spring up, mostly on the popular south coast. An old military bunker in the town of Seogwipo has been reinvented as the “Bunker of Light,” and here the Klimt display is currently exhibited. For the duration of each 30-minute show, the cavernous interior is awash with color and music. Visitors wander through it, spellbound. Jeju boasts to be “the land of a hundred museums.” Not all prove as tasteful as the Klimt exhibit. Among many others, you’ll find museums devoted to teddy bears (displays recreate famous events from world history with teddies), seashells, chocolate, optical illusions, Greek mythology, African art, computers, aviation, automobiles and sex. The latter is celebrated at Jeju Loveland, set within a park scattered with X-rated kitsch statues. Love is a common theme on Jeju. As South Korea’s No. 1 honeymoon destination, many of its attractions and resorts specifically cater to young couples, usually in a more

cutesy and innocent manner than Loveland. If the saccharine sweetness becomes overbearing, you can escape into the island’s mysterious wilds. A new, 264-mile hiking route, the Jeju Olle Trail, circumnavigates the island in 25 manageable sections. Be prepared for changeable weather. Jeju’s climate, while benignly mild, is also damp. Fog and rain often drift in off the Korea Strait, softening the landscape. On a misty, drizzly day, the interior of Jeju acquires a special mystique. Look along the marked trail. Periodically, strange, stylized human shapes appear through the gloom, sometimes less than knee-high, sometimes taller than you. These are Dol Hareubang — stone grandfathers. Intended to ward off evil spirits, they are carved out of gray volcanic rock and positioned at house entrances and throughout the landscape (you’ll also see them in myriad forms in the souvenir stores). These odd sculptures provide the most visible evidence of Jeju’s indigenous culture, ostensibly Korean yet also something else.

The Jeju dialect is symbolic of that; a version of Korean with so many odd pronunciations and unique words, mainland Koreans are unable to understand it. This local language is now in decline, with perhaps fewer than 1,000 native speakers remaining. Also in decline are the haenyeo, Jeju’s remarkable female divers. For centuries they have made a living free-diving the treacherous coastal waters to collect shellfish, sea urchins and abalone. Their working day has been formalized into a daily show at Sunrise Peak, a scenic spot on the east of the island. Here, twice a day (1:30–2:30 p.m. and 3–4 p.m.), spectators can watch these women plunge to depths of 30 feet or more, surfacing long minutes later with their catch. Tourism helps to preserve the haenyeo culture but threatens to undermine some of the other elements that make Jeju so special. The southern coast, especially around the town of Seogwipo, is the main focus for the tourism industry, yet the island’s gateway — by air and ferry — is Jeju City, in the north.

NATURAL RESOURCES:

(Left to right) Jeju Olle Trail walking path No. 10 in Songaksan, Dol Hareubang on Jeju island, and haenyeo female diver PHOTOS: © THEJIPEN - DREAMSTIME.COM , © YOORAN PARK - DREAMSTIME.COM, © FOOTAGELAB DREAMSTIME.COM

LODGING HIDDEN CLIFF HOTEL AND NATURE The name explains it: This 250-room hotel sits within a beautiful forested valley that opens onto a stretch of coastline. Striking design makes the most of the surroundings. 542, Yeraehaean-ro, Seogwipo $$$$ LAREEM BOUTIQUE HOTEL With sleek, 1960s-style modern architecture, the boutique hotel offers an

intimate alternative to the nearby mega-resorts, though you’ll need your own transport. Request a sea view. 39, Daepyeong-ro, Andeokmyeon, Seogwipo $$$ THE SHILLA JEJU This Jeju outpost of the highend Shilla hotel chain adjoins one of the island’s prettiest beaches. The architecture presents a Mediterranean theme. 75 Jungmungwangwang-ro, 72beon-gil, Seogwipo $$$$

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sland I u j Je y e onl ng is th verni o g f sel in ince v o . r p orea K h t Sou

DINING CHILDONGA The black pig is indigenous to Jeju. This unpretentious barbecue restaurant proves a great place to try the famous black pork — cook it at your table. 1507-10 Donghongdong, Seogwipo $$$ GIEOK I AM HOUSE Jeju is renowned for seafood, especially the abalone caught by courageous female divers. This restaurant serves it as fresh as can be: alive. 6 Jungang-ro, Seogwipo $$$ MOM’S TOUCH South Korea’s answer to KFC, though here there isn’t just one secret recipe for the fried chicken, there are 24. A cheap and tasty option. Outlets throughout Jeju Island $$

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A new airport currently being planned in the south could triple visitor numbers to 45 million. Local activists claim current numbers are already too high and a new airport will accelerate the destruction of the unique environment that attracts the tourists in the first place. While the arguments rumble on, tourists continue to come. Up to 189 flights arrive from Seoul every day, making it the world’s busiest air route. From the airport the new arrivals disperse across the island, finding attractions along the way. Even the road itself can be an attraction. Heading southwest from Jeju, close to Loveland, we see signposts for the “Mysterious Road.” When we reach it, all we find is a modest stretch wending through countryside. No spectacular views, no gaudy tourist facilities. However, this road appears to defy the laws of physics. Stop, switch off the engine, release the brake. We’re facing up the hill, right? So why are we rolling forward, gathering momentum?

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We experience the phenomenon while sitting in the vehicle, and then get out to test it by rolling a can along the asphalt. The results are repeated: Here, everything seems to roll uphill. The mundane truth is we’re witnessing an optical illusion. It’s a perfect introduction to Jeju, where not everything is at it seems.

ISLAND MYSTIQUE: Sunrise Peak (top), and Mysterious Road (bottom)

lgbtq+

Mediterranean Mix Discover the diversity in lively and laid-back Tel Aviv. BY MARK CHESNUT

BACK IN 2017, the International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association’s buyer survey named Israel one of the top two emerging LGBTQ+ destinations. Today Tel Aviv, the nation’s center for business, entertainment and the arts, continues to cement its role as a hub for sophisticated travelers. If you’re looking to feel welcome in the Middle East, place Tel Aviv at the top of your list. “Tel Aviv is a wonderful Israeli city as well as an international city,” said Ellen Shapiro, director of public relations, Israel Ministry of Tourism. “It is incredibly culturally diverse — like all of Israel — and has amazing food, culture, arts and museums. Add to that an unparalleled nightlife scene and a long stretch of beach on the Mediterranean, with great people-watching.” Indeed, Israel’s prime Mediterranean location makes it a natural choice for sun worshippers; the stretch of sand near the Hilton Tel Aviv is the most popular with LGBTQ+ locals and visitors. After dark, Tel Aviv wows with weekly parties as well as an array of clubs and bars. These include Amazona, the city’s top lesbian bar; Apolo, a men’s dance club; and Shpagat, where the large dance floor fills with all types of night owls. And then there’s pride. Tel Aviv is far and away the best place to celebrate LGBTQ+ pride in the Middle East; the event attracts more than 100,000 participants each June. A variety of festivals and events complement the parade itself, and past international ambassadors included Alan Cumming, Lea DeLaria, Perez Hilton

and Andy Cohen. A noteworthy part of the pride calendar every year is TLVFest, billed as the only LGBTQ+ film festival in the Middle East. It features screenings as well as panels and presentations with creative types from the international film industry. LGBTQ+-friendly accommodations in Tel Aviv run the gamut, including luxury properties like the Hilton Tel Aviv, which sits near the gay-popular beach; the Miami-chic Setai Tel Aviv, a member of Leading Hotels of the World located in the ancient port city of Jaffa; and the stylish NYX Tel Aviv Hotel, set downtown near a variety of attractions and activities. In Tel Aviv, the rainbow welcome mat comes in many forms.

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VIBRANT CITY: Rainbow beach huts (top), and Tel Aviv Pride Parade PHOTOS: © ISRAEL MINISTRY OF TOURISM, © VICULIA DREAMSTIME.COM

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aiport update

Swiss Innovation New projects transform the passenger experience at Zürich Airport. BY ERICH MARTIN

THE BIGGEST AND BUSIEST airport in Switzerland began operations in the late 1940s. Since then the airport continued to grow and innovate as passenger volume swelled over the years. In 2019 Zürich Airport remains the most well-connected airport in Switzerland, with regular flights to 163 destinations all over the world. Zürich Airport is evolving in more ways than increasing passenger volume consistently, but it’s continuing to do that as well. Last year 31,060,544 passengers transited through the airport, up from 26,281,228 passengers in 2015. That year the airport embarked on the biggest single construction project the country had ever seen. The Circle, finally nearing completion, looks to be finished later this year. The Circle will completely change the way travelers and locals alike interact with the airport. In simple terms, The Circle comprises a complex of varied-use buildings within close walking distance of the airport terminals. The complex represents a versatile addition to the airport. The Circle facilitates a convergence of business and lifestyle attractions. Two hotels, new offices, a medical clinic, venues for art and culture, restaurants and educational facilities bolster the additions to the airport. The Circle features seven hubs, each focused on a different outlet. For

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instance, one hub is home to offices, while another houses The Circle’s restaurants and yet another holds an art center filled with galleries and places to pick up new pieces for your collection. The complex also serves to set the airport apart as a destination in itself. The Circle’s location, just 12 minutes from Zürich proper, makes it convenient for get-togethers to take in art, a show or a great meal. The Circle also shows off the airport’s attention to sustainability. The project will maintain heating and cooling through underground thermal storage units while minimizing water and electricity usage through energy recovery measures. The Circle is just one piece of the puzzle as Zürich Airport looks toward the future. The Park, another addition coming to the airport in the future and set to open next year, will offer locals and travelers the chance to unwind amid 860,000 square feet of green space. The area, while providing guests a place to get some fresh air, will also aid local conservation efforts and positively impact the natural surroundings of the airport. For most travelers flying into Switzerland, Zürich Airport is their first impression of the city and country. Continual innovation will ensure the city always puts its best foot forward.

PLEASANT PASSAGE: Zürich Airport

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health

Don’t Leave Home Without Them Pack these essential over-the-counter items for every trip. BY MARY B. GALLAGHER, RN, MSN, CCRN

NO MATTER HOW EXPERIENCED a traveler you are, at some point in your journeys you will become sick, get cut or have a digestive disturbance. Granted, you could call the hotel front desk, the concierge or the hotel doctor for help (if there is one). You could try to locate a pharmacy in a new, unfamiliar city. It is so much easier to head back to your hotel room to obtain your favorite remedy for your illness. This avoids searching for help during late-night hours, going to a pharmacy and facing language barriers and confusion with brand names that may be familiar to you. Before you leave home, pack these 10 items to help you through typical travel ailments. However, be aware some countries ban certain over-the-counter medications; always check regulations before traveling. Ibuprofen (Advil) is an effective pain medication for a headache, pain, fever and reducing inflammation. After a day of sightseeing or exploring, your sore muscles will thank you. Always take ibuprofen with food so you do not experience stomach irritation. Acetaminophen (Tylenol) may be taken for mild or moderate pain relief for headaches, toothaches, backaches, cold, flu, osteoarthritis and fever reduction. If you are allergic to or cannot tolerate ibuprofen, acetaminophen offers a good option. Do not take acetaminophen with alcohol since it could damage your liver. You should have a few regular-strength aspirin on hand if you experience signs and symptoms of a heart attack. Chew one aspirin and swallow it after calling 911 if in the United States. If leaving the country, check before your trip for the emergency number in your destina-

tion country in case you need to call for emergency assistance. Pepto-Bismol, Imodium and Lomotil prove effective for the treatment of diarrhea. Nothing stops a vacation or business trip in its tracks faster than diarrhea. Be prepared with one of these in tablet form, easy to pack and carry. Diarrhea hits suddenly, and you do not want to search for a pharmacy when it strikes. You may need a laxative if you experience constipation while traveling. Bring a mild laxative such as Dulcolax (bisacodyl). Take it in the evening; it should work in six to 12 hours. Antacids are helpful for indigestion. Sometimes new foods can cause discomfort. Don’t let indigestion keep you away from a good time. Get a roll of your favorite antacids, such as Rolaids, Tums or Mylanta, or use Pepto-Bismol tablets to calm your stomach. Benadryl or diphenhydramine is an antihistamine good for seasonal allergies, hay fever and the common cold. It can be used to prevent and treat nausea, vomiting and dizziness caused by motion sickness. It can also help you relax and fall asleep. Do not take it with alcohol. Do not bring Sudafed, as many countries (Japan and Mexico, to name a few) do not allow the importation of Sudafed (pseudoephedrine). Avoid legal troubles by bringing Benadryl instead. Hydrocortisone 1% topical cream treats and soothes insect bites, rashes and itchy irritations. A small, 2-ounce tube will last a long time. Make sure to bring this, as some countries do not sell this medication without a prescription. A small tube of triple antibiotic ointment such as Neosporin will help the inevitable cuts,

scrapes, and blisters stay clean and heal quickly. Pack a few small bandages such as Band-Aids to cover cuts. Keep abrasions clean with soap and water and change bandages every day, looking for redness or swelling — signs of infection. Sunscreen with UVA and UVB protection is essential year-round since the damaging ultraviolet rays of the sun are ever-present. Because facial skin is more sensitive than the skin on our bodies, consider using a sunscreen with 30 to 50 SPF for your face and another one designed for body use. Sunscreen for the face does not leave that white residue you sometimes see with regular sunscreen. Pack these survival items in a clear, zip-close bag in your carry-on luggage. Keep them in the outside pocket so you can get them out easily for security inspections if needed. You can pack them in your checked baggage, but some travelers like them close by in case they need them en route. Keep all tablets and creams in their original labeled containers. Consider travel sizes of these OTC medications and avoid liquid forms, if possible, since liquids are subject to the 3.4-ounce TSA rule. Feel free to purchase generic versions of these medications; it will save you money. With all OTC medications, please read the instructions and follow dosage directions carefully. OTC medications can produce side effects, especially if used incorrectly. Inform your health care provider of all OTC medications you take regularly. Each of us has various health issues we take care of daily. Do not forget to bring your eye drops, nasal sprays, vitamins and prescription medications. Have a safe and healthy trip.

The content of this article is for informational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Always seek the advice of your physician or other qualified health care provider with any questions you may have regarding a medical condition.

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preview

Bangkok: This big, colorful, noisy, larger-than-life city positively bursts with energy. The air feels supercharged, and the legendary non-stop traffic jam seems downright overwhelming. This city comes at you like a whirlwind, yet few can resist its seductive charms. Learn more about Bangkok, Thailand, next month as you read 9-5: Bangkok. PHOTO: ÂŠ VITMARK - DREAMSTIME.COM

globaltravelerusa.com

JULY 2019

urban resort in Los Angeles offering luxurious accommodations, California French dining, newly redesigned bar with live entertainment, spacious meeting rooms, complimentary high-speed internet, spa and salon services, fitness center and more.

SOFITEL LOS ANGELES AT BEVERLY HILLS | 8555 BEVERLY BLVD. LOS ANGELES, CA 90048 | 310-278-5444 WWW.SOFITEL-LOS-ANGELES.COM

Premium, elevated.

Flagship Lounge and Flagship First Dining - at Los Angeles, Chicago Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Hare, New York - JFK, Miami, and now open in Dallas Fort Worth.