DAD’S KITCHEN: PANIZAS

Dad's Kitchen

Panizas

Text and Photography by Mark Montovio

Mark Montovio shares some of his much loved local and world recipes opening up possibilities for making each dish to suit a variety of families, different tastes and particular dietary needs. Combining his love of different cultures and world cuisine he is also committed to preparing meals which are nutritious, tasty and good to look at, with minimum waste and using seasonal produce

PANIZAS, A DISH I GREW UP WITH, often accompanying ‘menestra’, but incredibly versatile even as a starter, is very common in the Province of Cadiz, particularly during Carnavales, where it is considered to be ‘cocina de los tiesos’ by the Grupo Gastronomico Gaditano. It became very popular after the Spanish Civil War in 1936, and it was about making the most of what little was available. Nothing could be simpler than chickpea flour, salt and water.

It is believed that although common at that time in Cadiz, panizas come from Italy. There is evidence that these were around in Genoa during the fourteenth Century.

The technique of cooking chickpea flour in water until it thickens, and frying pieces in different shapes and sizes can be found in Liguria, the coastal region close to France, and these are called ‘panissa ligure’, and also in Provence, France, where they are called ‘panisses’.

Whatever their origin, whatever their shape, and whatever you accompany them with, there is no doubt that they are delicious, nutritious, gluten free and filling! Although I often make them to accompany ‘menestra’, just like my mother did when I was a child, they marry beautifully with risotto, not as thickly cut though, as a starter with chopped spring onions and ‘alioli’, and as a tapa with a good red or white wine. Although the texture changes back to their original state when cold, I have it on good authority, that they are often served cold, cut into cubes and prepared as you would, ‘papas aliñás’. This dish, called ‘huevos de fraile’ was apparently invented by a Capuchin monk who had no eggs and used the only thing he had available, a bag of chickpea flour! This is what I love best, people understanding ingredients and making magic with the basics and a bit of love!

Panizas are incredibly easy to prepare and there are just a few things to take into account. The ratio of chickpea flour must be 1:3 so for a bag of 250g, which is what is typically sold locally, you need 750ml of water. If you want to be more adventurous, try adding powdered garlic, herbs, cumin, curry powder, paprika or chili flakes, when cooking the dough, and why not replace 250ml of the total water with beer!

The first thing to do is to put the water in a pot or deep pan and bring to the boil. You then add the chickpea flour and the salt and stir to avoid any lumps. You can use a hand mixer to break the lumps. You need to cook while stirring continuously, until the dough starts to come off the sides of the pot and is as thick as a good potato mash. It can take five minutes at least.

Once it has thickened, you need to pour the mixture while still hot on an oiled shallow dish or large plate. You need to be quick, as it solidifies the moment it starts cooling down, preventing you from spreading it properly. You then leave it to cool and it is great to prepare and leave in the fridge covered in cling film overnight, but that’s not necessary, as you can start cutting the dough as soon as it has reached room temperature.

Whatever shape you chose, they are ready to fry until golden brown, in good olive oil or pork fat. Serve them with a little sea salt and freshly ground black pepper.