edible Hawaiian Islands Fall 2010 by Edible Hawaiian Islands Archives

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hawaiian islands tm

Celebrating the Harvest of the Aloha State, Season by Season No. 14 Fall 2010

Meyer Lemons Cultivating Hawai`iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Keiki Rustic Maui Onion Bread Chocolate Passion Member of Edible Communities

Fall 2010 Contents Departments

Features 4 LETTER OF ALOHA 7 NOTABLE EDIBLES 30 BOOK REVIEWS 34 COOKING FRESH 45 FARMERS’ MARKETS 48 ADVERTISER DIRECTORY 50 WHAT IS IT AND HOW DO YOU EAT IT — Romanesco Broccoli

9 12 16 20 23 26

Cover photo

MEYER LEMON by Michelle Loglia www.islandreflectionsphotography.com

INDIGENOUS INDUSTRY Hokulani Bakery and the Cupcake King of Oàhu By Tim Ryan CHOCOLATE PASSION LOCALLY GROWN By Martha Cheng CULTIVATING HAWAIÌ’S KEIKI A Journey Through School Gardens in Hawaiì By Tiana Kamen COW + GRASS = GOOD Beef Raised Close to Home By John Cox LIVING FOODS MARKET & CAFÉ Know your grocer By Jon Letman TALK STORY Meyer Lemons By Wanda A. Adams EDIBLE EXCERPT FALL/WINTER 2010 The Reign of Terroir Rowan Jacobsen TABLE FOR FOUR, PLEASE Family Time By Lily Katz

Photo by Carole Topalian

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Letter of Aloha One of the joys of being a part of the Edible Communities family is that we receive copies of each other’s magazines—totaling over 60 now every quarter. This makes for the sharing of a lot of inspired ideas as well as helps with keeping up with the local food movement across the continent. I’m especially impressed with our newest Edibles and how powerful they are right out of the gate. Mahalo to Steve Makela, Publisher of Edible Louisville whose words have resounded with many of us. Edible Hawaiian Islands is all about food. But is also (and just as importantly) about supporting the building of a deep local economy using local food as the driver. Think about it:   •

When you hand the Starbucks clerk a $5 bill, say good-bye. It’s on its way to Seattle. When you hand a locally owned coffee shop your money, a much higher portion of that re-circulates in the Hawaiian economy.   • When you choose the big brands, you are enriching corporations and their shareholders. When you select local products— especially at locally owned food stores—you are creating local jobs.   • When you purchase directly from the farmers market or farm stand, you are reducing our dependence on foreign oil and chemically addicted industrial agricultural corporations…and you are building community as you meet and establish ongoing relationships with those local vendors.   • When you dine at one of our many independent restaurants—especially those who source local food—you are supporting the entire local food and supply chain. • When you dine at chain restaurants, you are likely sending your dollars to some remote location for food and supplies that have traveled back and forth across the globe.   • TAKE THE EDIBLE CHALLENGE: For the next week, use cash for all your food and restaurant purchases. Don't use a discount card. As you hand over your hard earned money, think about: WHO are you handing it to? WHERE is it going? HOW MUCH of it will stay in Hawai`i, re-circulating and building a vibrant, deep local economy?   One thing we can certainly agree on in this age of disagreement is that buying local is better for all of us in The Hawaiian Islands.

Gloria Cohen P.S. Remember also it’s that time of year to vote for your local hero, see page 22! 4

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Photo by G. Natale

A hui hou,

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Hawaiian Islands Publisher/Editor in Chief Gloria Cohen Editor at Large Steven Cohen Distribution & Advertising FrontDesk@ediblealoha.com Dania Katz, Maui Terry Sullivan, Kaua`i

Contributors Kira Cohen • Melissa Petersen • Tracey Ryder • Carole Toplian Photography Lauren Brandt • Oliver Cohen Steven Cohen • John Cox • G. Natale Artists Cindy Conklin • Mary Ogle Writers Wanda A. Adams • Martha Cheng • John Cox • Dahlia Haas Rowan Jacobsen • Tiana Kamen • Lily Katz • Jon Letman G. Natale • Tim Ryan Copy Editor Doug Adrianson Food Research Editor John Cox Research & Events Editor Lila Martin Contact Us Edible Aloha PO Box 753, Kilauea, HI 96754 808-828-1559 FrontDesk@EdibleAloha.com www.EdibleAloha.com Subscribe * Give A Gift * Advertise Call: 808-828-1559 Or use the above email or web address Letters For the quickest response, FrontDesk@EdibleAloha.com Edible Hawaiian Islands is published quarterly by Edible Hawaiian Islands LLC. All rights reserved. Spring * Summer * Fall * Winter Subscription is $28 annually. No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. ©2010. Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error has escaped our attention, please notify us and accept our sincere apologies. Mahalo!

Photo by G. Natale

Edible Hawaiian Islands is printed in Honolulu, HI

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notable Lana`i The Chef’s Table Experience at the Four Seasons Resort Lana`i at Manele Bay—If you are seeking an exclusive food experience, you can enjoy a customized five-course menu, interaction with the chefs and private dining in the exhibition kitchen. Whether you are a gourmand or unfamiliar in the kitchen, you may also take this experience a step further and cook alongside the chef, course by course, learning techniques that may be applied at home. Contact our friend Pamela Haban at 808-565-2388 or www.fourseasons.com/lanai

Molokaì If you have been waiting to visit Molokaì, I suggest a trip this fall to experience the eighth annual Molokaì Food & Business Expo on November 6. Top chefs from Maui, Molokaì and Lanaì will dish up unique recipes using Molokaì products. Come taste, hear and see what Molokaì business is all about! 11am–4pm at the Mitchell Pauole Center, Kaunakakai. 808-553-4482 or www.molokaichamber.org

Maui

Art by Cindy Conklin

MauiGrown Coffee, what could be better than sipping freshly brewed coffee, sitting outside on the lanai next to the newly restored landmark smokestack in Lahaina. You can educate yourself by tasting different types of coffee grown on Maui. Take a self-guided tour of the coffee farms high above Lahaina. The view is breathtaking. Ship some coffee home to friends and family on the mainland! Call Jeff or Diane at 808-661-2128 or visit www.MauiGrownCoffee.com

edibles

Kauaì If you are cooking for family and friends and want to capture the flavor of Hawaiì, try Aloha Spice. They have my favorite blend of local rubs, spices, salts and sugars that make my food taste unique. For the holidays it makes the perfect gift from the islands. Check out their cookbook too! www.alohaspice.com or 808335-5944. We also enjoy Anahola Granola. Their granola has been handmade in Hawaiì since 1986. They believe the simple idea that granola is best when ingredients are fresh and local. Visit their website because they have more than great granola. www.anaholagranola.com or 808-335-5240.

Hawai`i Island Kona Coffee Cultural Festival is the oldest food festival in the state of Hawai`i taking place November 5–14 in Kona. There are so many events all rolled up in a twoweek period—from a cooking contest to farm tours to parades. People come from all over the world to attend this event. Go to www.konacoffeefest.com or 808-326-7820 for all the delicious details.

O`ahu What flavor says more about the islands than fresh ginger? Recently I hosted a party and used Pacifikool Ginger Syrup in my cocktails. I fell in love with this sweet spicy syrup. My mind began to wander, ice cream, salad dressing, coolers it could be endless. Pacifikool is made from ginger grown exclusively in Hawai`i. The ginger syrup is a mix of ginger juice and pulp in sugar syrup. There are no preservatives, artificial colorings or artificial flavors. This is a must-try not only for the holidays but all year! 808-265-9300 or www.Pacifikool.com

Correction for Summer 2010, Notable Edible/Kaua`i page 9: According to consulting Chef, Peter Foster, “Oasis on the Beach, in Waipouli Resort delivers a dinner menu comprised of 85% locally produced food.” EHI supports their efforts. For more information visit: www.oasiskauai.com

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Photo by Tim Ryan

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indigenous industry

Hokulani Bakery and the Cupcake King of O`ahu BY TIM RYAN

Cupcakes take the cake when it comes to sheer palate pleasure, but the popular pastry doesn’t just satisfy our selfish sweet side. These days they can also make indulgers feel like celebrities, with their co-starring appearances on the hit television show “Sex and the City,” and celebs like J. Lo and “Seinfeld” stars unabashedly munching these delights. For others, cupcakes can quench young people’s need for nostalgia with sugarcoated memories of “Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles’” birthday parties and, for older folks, thoughts of savoring chocolate Hostess Cupcakes with a tall glass of cold milk. “We all grew up with cupcakes,” says Tushar Dubey (pronounced DO-bay), the cupcake king of Oàhu. “They’re major nostalgia and, come on, who doesn’t love a good cupcake?” The Oàhu-born-and-raised Dubey along with his wife, Ana, started Hokulani Bake Shop in 2005 in a 445-square-foot “room” at Restaurant Row in downtown Honolulu thanks to a $45,000 load from his parents and a $30,000 line of credit from the bank. As stories spread among Row business tenants, the couple put in 12hour days and Hokulani Bake Shop clientele continued to increase. The Dubeys may have been ahead of the cupcake fad in Hawaiì when they opened, but it was already a successful niche market on the mainland.

“If you have a big ego, doing cupcakes is a great business to be in,” Dubey says. “Everyone loves the cupcake guy.” If you’re moaning “Oh, here we go again with the mom-and-pop dessert suggestion,” forget it. All of Hokulani Bake Shop’s 15 cupcake flavors are melt-in-your-mouth originals. The bakers make from 600 to 1,500 baked goods a day, including cupcakes, decorated sugar cookies, chocolate chip cookies and “niche” brownies. For special events like summer’s Made in Hawai`i event, Hokulani’s bakers made 3,000 items. “We may not have a lot of items on our menu, but what we do, we do right,” says Dubey. “It’s hard to trust a bakery that has 200 products.” Thirteen of Hokulani Bake Shops’ 15 cupcake varieties cost $2.25 each. Most commercial bakers and professional cake decorators replace unsalted butter with vegetable shortening or lard for better aesthetic results at the expense of taste. “We keep it pretty much all natural,” Dubey explained. “We stick to butter and no oils, use local eggs, but we do use food coloring.” “We have real calories,” he jokes.

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The bakery’s most popular cupcake has always been the Red Velvet, a vanilla cake with cocoa powder, red food coloring, vinegar and buttermilk. “The vinegar and buttermilk is the secret because it adds a little tang to it,” Dubey says. Other popular cupcakes are strawberry guava, chocolate and lilikoi. For St. Patrick's Day, there was a Green Velvet cupcake. The latest product, introduced this summer, was a sweet and smooth-tasting pineapple rum cupcake. At one time Hokulani’s cupcake flavors included a Guinness stout, port wine and black cherry. But make no mistake: The Dubeys do not claim to be master chefs; the recipes came off the internet. “We bought the Buttercup Bakery and Magnolia Bakery cookbooks,” he said. “We don’t need to reinvent the wheel; these are the recipes that started the [mainland] cupcake trend.” The first years the couple operated the Row bakery site almost alone, with Ana doing the baking and Tushar handling marketing and customer service. But with the opening of two additional retail stores—Pioneer Plaza, also in downtown Honolulu, and the Hyatt Regency in Waikiki— Hokulani now has 15 employees, including the Dubeys, and four bakers. Baking is 4–8am. Any items not sold after 12 hours are given to their regular clients for their employees. “Our strategy is to stick to our focus of what we are, and within that focus innovate,” Dubey says. “There’s no barrier to enter the food business so you have to always be out there in front of media. “Early on I hired DJ’s Tire Service to transform an old mail truck I bought for $1,500 into a glossy Cupcake Mobile that looks a lot like the little bakery. It took eight months and $10,000 to create it, but it’s everything I envisioned.” These days Ana, who is pregnant with the couple’s second child, does human resource work with employees and hires and trains new workers. The bakers also report to her. She’s also the official greeter at the Row store. She knows customers’ names, what their occupations are and their cupcake preferences. Likewise, clients call her by her first name, ask how her week is 10

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going and request updates on the expected baby. More than 90% of the bakeshop’s customers are female. “People come into Hokulani with a smile and excitement on their faces and we try to make them smile even more by the time they leave,” Ana says. “It’s a happy business for them and us.” Tushar is a 1994 Iolani School graduate who also attended Hōkūlani Elementary. “I was looking for a name with a Hawaiian flavor that I had a connection with,” he says. “A long-time friend proposed Hokulani and it stuck.” He graduated from Carnegie Mellon University with a degree in economics and public policy, then lived four years in Silicon Valley working for an investment company. He moved to New York in October 2002 where he met Ana, who was vacationing from her native Colombia. “We kept in touch through phone calls and e-mails,” Dubey says. In October 2004, Dubey visited Ana in Colombia. The couple was married in 2005 in Honolulu, celebrating their marriage with three ceremonies: a Hindu ceremony in India, where Tushar’s extended family is from; a Christian ceremony in Colombia, where Ana’s family lives; and a barefoot ceremony in Honolulu. “My mother wanted me to go into real estate,” Dubey says. “My first business was selling “Pidgin on the Fridge” refrigerator magnets. “My parents always told me that whatever I chose to do, strive to do the very best.” The Dubeys admit that the bakeshop is “time and labor intensive.” “It can wear you down if you don’t make sure you take time out to enjoy life,” he says. A lifelong ocean lover, he still likes the occasional body surfing session during the summer south swells, but the family also has annual passes to the Honolulu Zoo and Waikiki Aquarium. “We go there a lot and really enjoy our time together,” he says. “We want our business to grow but that has to include time we all have together.”

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ChoColate PassionLocally Grown BY MARTHA CHENG

From truffles displayed like jewels in glass cases to thick, hot fudge melting its way to the bottom of an ice cream sundae glass, from molten cakes presented on white tablecloths to a candy bars freed from crinkly paper-and-foil wrappings, chocolate is both luxurious and comforting. It was included in war rations as a morale booster for troops and has since been rarefied in a more opulent way, described with terms like “single-origin” and “grand-cru.” Over the years, chocolate has ridden the fads and diets remarkably well, emerging as healthy, even. It’s high in antioxidants, reduces bad cholesterol and lowers blood pressure, the studies say. But in these days of locavorism and a heightened consciousness of good, clean and fair food, chocolate is still mostly a guilty indulgence; 80% of the world’s cocoa is grown in West Africa, and it’s an industry tainted with child labor and exploitation, human trafficking and slavery. Enter chocolate grown and processed in Hawai`i, the only state in the United States to do so. Spearheading the industry is the Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory (OHCF), which uses cacao beans exclusively from Hawai`i (at the moment, from Big 12

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Island only) to make their chocolate. OHCF processes almost 10,000 pounds of chocolate a year, sourcing cacao beans from other farms on Big Island in addition to their own. Over the years, OHCF has helped other farmers grow cacao, says co-owner Pam Cooper. “We invite them to the farm, we show them how the trees grow. We offer them any education they need in the process of planting and pruning and sustaining their orchard. We encourage other farmers to grow and create another diversified crop for the state of Hawai`i.” In the process, they’re helping to create a cleaner chocolate, the origins of which can be traced directly to Hawai`i’s farmers.

History of OHCF and Process In 1997, Bob and Pam Cooper moved to Hawai`i and bought a farm with over 1,000 cacao trees on an acre of the land. The trees were grafted from the original planting of cacao on the Hilo side of Big Island, the result of a collaborative effort with the Hershey Corporation in the early ’80s. It turns out the largest chocolate manufacturer in North America, the source of many a childhood memory of chocolate, from Kisses to the Hershey-stamped squares in s’mores, is also the original source of Hawai`i-grown chocolate.

Photo by Mark Miller

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Chocolate and Terroir “Just like everybody else, we love chocolate, but we had no idea how it was made or grown or anything,” says Pam. “It's been quite an adventure for us.” Through the farm’s former caretakers, and classes at Richardson Researches Inc. (chocolate technology school) in Davis, California, the Coopers learned to harvest cacao pods—shaped like ridged footballs in a striking range of colors, from yellow to red— ferment the beans, dry them and then take the cacao from bean to bar. Mastering the latter process took almost three years, given the amount of specialized equipment that had to be built or shipped over in order to produce the form of chocolate we’re familiar with. There’s the roaster, similar to a coffee roaster; the winnower, a machine that separates the cacao nibs from the shell; concher, or refiner, which grinds the nibs into a smooth chocolate liquor paste; and tempering tank, which controls the cooling of the chocolate in order to give finished chocolate its sheen and snap. (Try melting a piece of chocolate and letting it cool on its own. Without tempering, the chocolate’s surface turns grayish and when cooled and hardened, it crumbles apart instead of breaking cleanly.) The entire process, from harvesting to chocolate, can be viewed at OHCF’s factory. The tour offers a taste of the citric, sweet pulp within the cacao pods and around the beans; a glimpse of the concher, mesmerizing as it grinds gritty cacao nibs into a smooth, dark, thick liquid; and a viewing of the tempering tank, which churns the shiny, fluid chocolate, reminiscent of the chocolate river Augustus falls into at Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory. At this point, you understand the appeal.

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Perhaps the ultimate status symbol of any food is when it takes on the wine-tasting lexicon. The flavor of chocolate grown in Hawai`i is distinctive, a manifestation of its terroir. “[It’s] really wonderful. It takes it flavor from the soil and environmental conditions here on the Big Island,” says Pam. “People liken it to fruitiness and wine.” Within the different varieties of chocolate, each also has its own characteristics. The forastero variety makes up the majority of chocolate in the world because of its high yield and hardiness. Of their forastero chocolate, Pam says “it has more fruitiness to it. You might taste raspberry or strawberry.” OHCF also produces criollo chocolate, the rarest chocolate in the world. “This has more of an earthy, nutty flavor,” she says. OHCF offers cacao nibs in addition to chocolate bars and plumeriashaped pieces, in dark, milk and criollo chocolate. There are also one-pound baking bars to assist in the holiday baking frenzy. For a decadent transformation of OHCF chocolate, Merriman’s restaurants make a warm chocolate purse—phyllo wrapped around a liquid center of chocolate. Hukilau Lanai on Kaua`i features OHCF chocolate in a classic chocolate molten cake as well as their dark chocolate raspberry truffle tart, set on a devil’s food cookie crust. Kailua Candy Company crafts chocolate mousse cakes and Kona Gold Coast Truffles with OHFC chocolate. As one who signs her communications with “Chocolate is Aloha,” Pam says, “Can you think of any better way to celebrate the holidays than with chocolate?” Indeed, and with locally grown chocolate, no less.

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Cultivating hawai`i’s

KeiKi

a Journey through school gardens in hawai`i

Photo by Cory Ann Hom-Weaver

BY TIANA KAMEN

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Today was a special Aloha Friday for the third through sixth graders at Kauaì Pacific School … it was Harvest Day! The kids excitedly scrambled around the garden rows and found the vegetables that they had been so carefully tending. “Whoa! That’s the BIGGEST broccoli I’ve ever seen!” shouted one girl. Her classmates surrounded her and howled with excitement, “COOL! LET’S EAT IT!!” The future farmer turned to us all and giggled, “I knew the ladybug I put on the baby seedling was good luck!” Something about this was very strange: Kids were excited about growing food and eating vegetables! Empowering our children with the knowledge and opportunity to grow and cook their own food is a valuable gift that we as a community can give to the next generation. The school garden at Kauaì Pacific School is only one of many school gardens popping up all over Hawaiì and the nation. The School Garden and Nutrition Network on Kauaì is just getting started, but many teachers, administrators and community members who have long been advocates of the movement are geared up and ready to get growing. Just a few decades ago most schools on Kauaì had thriving agricultural programs. Although only a few of those gardens are still in production, many more are poised to blossom. With our country’s overdependence on imported foods and energy, obesity rates skyrocketing, and the fragility of our already thinly stretched economy, now is the perfect time to re-localize our agriculture. We can reconnect with the `āina, and foster a new generation who are able to take care of themselves as well as their island and òhana. Caught up in the whirlwind of processed foods, we have lost the connection between the food on The goal of the Hawaiì School Garden Network is to have a garden at every our tables and the soil in which it grows. Hawaiì’s rich school, a garden teacher in every garden and a fully integrated curriculum. history of agricultural sustainability and year-round For more information, or to join the network, please contact your island cogrowing season provide us with the unique opportunity ordinator. to rekindle our relationship with the `āina, nourish our Hawaiì Island people and be a modern model for resiliency. It is not Nancy Redfeather • www.kohalacenter.org/HISGN/about.html easy for everyone to make dietary and lifestyle changes, nredfeather@kohalacenter.org but we all want the best for our children. A school garden is a simple way to help keep our children healthy, our food local and our community engaged. Every school garden is also a classroom where the desks turn into clipboards and the textbooks come to life. While teachers use these living laboratories to reinforce academic curriculum, the natural world

Kaua`i Tiana Kamen • www.malamakauai.org • tiana@malamakauai.org Maui Lehn Huff • lehn@maui.net • www.sustainablemaui.org

O`ahu Lydi Morgan-Bernal • lydi@kokuahawaiifoundation.org www.kokuahawaiifoundation.org/schoolprograms/ainainschools/

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“Cool! Let’s eat it!!”

teaches these students about patience, cooperation and responsibility, all integral facets of a successful garden. It doesn’t matter what the students plant or how much they grow; the most important value of taking care of a garden is that they do it themselves. In the garden, students take ownership of their education and the food they eat. With guidance from schoolteachers and community experts, the seeds they sow in the fertile island soil can inspire a lifetime passion for healthy homegrown food. In school gardens on Kauaì, such as Eleèle Elementary, learning about counting and measuring is no chore for the first graders who can’t wait to find out how tall their marigolds grew over the weekend. The high school students at Island School were just as eager to learn more about physics, geometry and aquaculture as they successfully renovated their old locker hangout into an aquaponics garden. One of the easiest and most exciting ways to change our kids’ cuisine is to give them the skills to cook the food they grow. In Jeanne Sturvantant’s after-school cooking class at Kauaì’s Koloa Elementary School, students work together to prepare a delicious vegetarian meal with their own cutting boards and professional knives. She can’t keep up with the appetites of her hungry students who always return for seconds and thirds! “Many of my students come to school without eating breakfast, and sometimes they won’t have dinner waiting for them when they go home,” Jeanne told me. She has made it a priority in her classroom to empower the students to feed themselves and their families. Once the new garden at the school is ready for planting (thanks to funding by the Poipu Rotary Club), Jeanne will use food grown by the students in her cooking classes. Together we are not only helping to grow the next generation of farmers who will help us eat locally, and organically, but we are ultimately investing in a stable and sustainable future. Although many

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schools have garden plots, the current demand on teachers is so overwhelming that many gardens have fallen to the weeds. If you want to help with a school garden, please take a moment to contact the school garden coordinator on your island to assess where and how you can get involved. Let the teachers and administrators know that school gardens and the procurement of fresh local foods in the cafeteria should be a priority. Whether it is a helping hand or a donation, your effort will make a difference in the lives of many. If you would like to volunteer, no garden experience is necessary. The school garden network coordinators on every island are here to offer you the tools, training and support to get started, or at least point you in the right direction. If you are passionate about gardening and kids, most gardens are also in need of a garden leader, someone who will oversee the garden and collaborate with teachers to connect the garden to what the kids are learning in class. Do you love to cook? Why not teach the kids some of your favorite recipes? Whether you are a storyteller, a farmer or a restaurant owner, the kids would love to have you in as a guest speaker. Organizations and companies are also encouraged to adopt a school garden and participate in garden workdays. The Mālama Kauaì School Garden Network is very grateful to the Ulu Pono Initiative, Hawaiì Community Foundation and Communities Putting Prevention to Work—Hawaiì for making the health and education of our keiki a priority. In a school garden we are not only growing food, “we are growing people,” expresses Gigi Cocquio from the education farm HoaÀina O Makaha on Oàhu. I hope that every child gets to experience the magic that they have created in the garden, especially those proud moments when they can’t wait to show off the gigantic broccoli they grew—and then eat it for dinner.

A school garden can always use some helping hands. Here are a few ways to get involved:

•

Volunteer with the students during garden or cooking classes

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Donate garden or cooking resources (What’s needed? Garden supplies such as soil, worms, seed trays, seeds, tools, materials for making raised beds, tool sheds and irrigation systems, and cooking supplies such as condiments, gas stoves and cookware.)

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Participate in garden workdays.

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Monetary donations are always greatly appreciated.

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It is a perfect day for a barbecue. The morning clouds have pushed far up the mountain and a refreshing breeze is coming off the bay. Just a few hundred feet away a line of cows trots along the fence line through knee-high cane grass. Children pull globe mangos from a lowhanging branch and everyone thinks how lucky they are to live in such a beautiful and bountiful place.

Cow + grass = good BEEF RAISED CLOSE TO HOME BY JOHN COX

But it gets better—well, maybe not for you, but at least for those cows—because the kalbi ribs you are eating didn’t come from Hana Ranch, they didn’t even come from Hawai`i. They came from animals slaughtered six months ago at a giant packing facility in the Midwest. Like most beef cattle they were raised on corn, pumped full of antibiotics and raised within the confines of a muddy stall in an anonymous factory farm. Luckily this doesn’t have to be the story every time. In fact, Hawai`i is one of the last places in the United States where you can easily buy beef raised close to home. This is largely due to the efforts of Maui Cattle Company, a cooperative of local ranches that works together to promote sustainable farming. Though each of the ranches operates independently they all share a similar philosophy and practice raising animals in much the same way as they were taught by previous generations of paniolos. The past two years have not been kind to Maui Cattle Company. A drought has left pastures parched, limiting the number of cows each ranch can support. Environmental activists have fought to limit the use of irrigation, returning the water to streams and taro farms of East Maui. When I asked the head of Maui Cattle, Alex Franco, about the rough conditions he put it well: “This [water shortage] is kicking our behind, but will make us better grass managers over time. Maui will always be water short, therefore we must learn how 20

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to manage our existing resources to produce grass-fed cattle.” Something amazing happens when a cow is raised naturally, roaming freely and foraging on wild grasses and the occasional guava: The cow actually tastes like a cow. As a culture, we have grown so accustomed to corn-finished beef that we expect beef to be void of any “beef” flavor. When you eat something like wild boar or bison you expect a certain amount of flavor; is it possible that flavor is simply the natural taste of meat, a result of walking, running and doing what animals do? Eating a steak raised on Maui reminds you what real beef tastes like. In addition to superior flavor, local grass-fed beef has significant health advantages over mass-produced feedlot beef. As soon as a cow is switched from grass to corn, the levels of beneficial omega-3 fat and vitamin E begin to decrease and the amount of saturated fat begins to increase. This means that local beef is not only leaner but that the fat is actually beneficial. From an environmental standpoint, due to the massive amounts of fertilizer required for commercial corn production, an average steer consumes the equivalent of 250 gallons of oil before slaughter—not to mention the fuel required to transport the meat after production.

Despite the current economic challenges, Maui Cattle Company maintains an impressive client list of chefs and restaurants that firmly stand by their product. “We have had a few [accounts] drop off, mainly caused by going out of business, but most of our customers have stayed with us through these hard times. I would say our high-end restaurants have slowed down considerably due to the economic downturn, but we are hopeful that all of this will pick up by next summer. We have over a hundred accounts that we presently supply and they are all important to us regardless of size.” I know it might seem tempting to save a few cents by stocking your freezer with steaks from a discount store. Just remember that when you purchase beef from Maui Cattle Company you are not only choosing a healthier, more flavorful option, you are also supporting the local paniolo culture and Maui’s rugged agricultural beauty.

Photo by John Cox

The aroma of shoyu dripping onto a bed a smoldering kiawe coals quickly draws a hungry crowd. People watch as kalbi ribs are quickly charred against the grill’s glowing grate and then flipped into a large bowl filled with steamed rice. A handful of chopped green onions and the bowl is on its way to the table.

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living Foods Market & Café Know your grocer

Photo by Jon Letman

BY JON LETMAN

“Look at these big, beautiful, chunky things,” says Jim Moffat as he holds up a hand of wonderfully uneven chubby yellow bananas grown on a Kaua`i farm. “This is what we want to sell – not artificially flawless bananas grown 6,000 miles away. We want to be like a little farmer’s market in Costa Rica.” In other words, Moffat wants to offer natural, local and products in a way that brings people closer to the source of their food for a healthier, better tasting way of eating. It’s uncommon for a successful restaurateur to venture into the retail grocer world, but that is what Moffat did earlier this year when he launched Living Foods Market & Café. He calls the move a logical extension consistent with the farm to table movement. Before relo-

cating to Kauaì in 2004, Moffat spent most of his life in kitchens and markets around the world. In the 1990s he opened two successful Bay Area restaurants (42 Degrees, The Slow Club) and in 2005 launched a tapas restaurant in Hanalei called Bar Acuda. In nurturing Bar Acuda Moffat formed relationships with farmers all over Kauaì and says he liked what he found — produce grown with organic and environmentally sound methods by people who loved the land and cared about the food they were growing because it was feeding their own family, friends and community. But Moffat also recognized independent farmers on Kauaì, certainly across the islands, had a problem. The burden of distribution and marketing was eating too many hours of their day, forcing them WWW.EDIBLEALOHA.COM

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spend valuable field time in front of a computer, on the phone, or driving around the island trying to get their product to market. That’s where Moffat saw the value in supporting a business model for Kauaì based on a food system study conducted by then-Malama Kauaì staff member Katie Paul and her partner Laura Kinney. In 2009 Paul and Kinney launched a company called Cultivate that would help market and distribute produce to buyers, allowing farmers to spend more time growing food. When Moffat heard about Cultivate, he became an ardent supporter. As Moffat says, “let’s get these farmers to put a hundred more pineapples in the ground because I’ll buy every one of them.” Moffat was confident there was a market for local produce and that Cultivate could give local agriculture the boost it needed. Moffat saw Paul’s business as a way to better connect the community with local agriculture while providing Bar Acuda and Living Foods Market & Café with Kauaì-grown food. “Without Cultivate, it would take me 15 phone calls to 15 farmers and they’d have to come out in their own little vans. It just goes against the whole idea,” Moffat says. With Cultivate Moffat could further develop relationships with other farmers and use their goods to stock his new 5,000 square foot retail space in the newly opened Kukuiùla Village retail center in Poìpū. Featuring a 1,500 square foot commercial kitchen, Living Foods Market & Café stocks fresh island-grown produce, imported

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organic and non-organic foods, over 100 different wines and on-site restaurant quality prepared foods, sauces, daily baked breads and inhouse roasted Hawaiian coffees in a crisp, clean café/market setting with a dine-in counter and roomy lānai. “Our concept is to present restaurant-style quality in a different way,” Moffat says. And different it is. When is the last time you went to a grocery store playing an ambient dub soundtrack that offered grab-n-go marinated chicken breasts, homemade hummus, artisan cheeses, freshly baked bread, marinated Mediterranean olives, just-ground Hawaiian coffee, award-winning wine, organic pasta and Haden mangos all in one spot? It’s probably safe to say there is no place else quite like Living Foods anywhere in Hawai`i. Moffat and his team (general managers Kim Barkow and Jondy Malone and a staff of 12) have created a store where you can enjoy buying food, stop for a meal, or grab lunch and head to the beach, the mountains or back home to enjoy some seriously good food. “Everything you find on our menu is available in the store too. We’re bringing 30 years of restaurant experience here and I think that differentiates us from any other place,” says Moffat. Every morning Living Foods fires up its Wood Stone oven at 4 a.m. so when they open at 7 a.m. they can offer six or seven types of bread like como, pan levain, French loaf, potato bread, buns, muffins and pastries.

“Here’s a 12-grain loaf bread we bake for our sandwiches. How fun is that?” Moffat asks. “When other places are importing frozen baguettes from L.A., we’re baking our own bread. It’s right up there with making wine and throwing pottery — pretty down to earth stuff.” To Moffat, he’s simply filling a niche, providing the community with something he says was missing. Influenced by his own travels in Mediterranean Europe and what he calls “an obvious, easy peasant sensibility,” Moffat has crafted Living Foods’ café menu to reflect cultures that value food prepared simply and naturally. He says not everybody wants “14-pounds of waffles with macadamia nut pineapple-butter” for breakfast every day. As an alternative, Living Foods offers lighter European-style breakfasts like poached eggs on homemade toast with prosciutto or French toast made with pineapple brioche. Maybe it’s the scent of roasting coffee that draws them in, but by seven o’clock the hungry have arisen and are streaming into Living Foods for breakfast, eating at the counter or spread out around the 45-seat ipe wood lānai around the café. Lunch offerings include salads, pot pies, crêpes, panini and pizzettas. If you’re looking for an alternative to shopping at national chain and big box stores, or don’t have the time to visit the farmer’s market regularly but still want to buy food grown in Hawai`i, or if you want a five star meal without the reservations or waiters, you’ve probably just found your new favorite market and café.

Moffat says it best: “This store is a nice size where we, as owner and managers, can be involved. We really care and want to talk about every single item because we’ve chosen them ourselves. They haven’t come down from a corporate level like — ‘You’re getting 400 cases of this tomorrow, put it on your shelves!’ Moffat picks up a packet of cookies for emphasis. “These are here because we love this cookie and can talk all about it.” It’s this connection to grocers, farmers and chefs that appeals to people, Moffat says. People who shop and eat at Living Foods Market aren’t “consumers,” they’re people. Helping make this connection is Moffat’s own reward and is reflected in his voice when he says, “We love doing this — coming to our store, researching our product, delivering it, drinking it, eating it and growing it.” Living Foods Market also participates in the Kukui`ula Village culinary market every Wednesday afternoon from 4–6 p.m. when farmers and restaurants offer food, drinks and cooking demonstrations alongside island-grown produce straight from the field.

livingfoodskauai.com Open daily 7 a.m. – 8 p.m. (808) 742-2323

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talk story

Meyer Lemons BY WANDA A. ADAMS PHOTO BY TRACEY RYDER

Meyer lemons love the Islands. The trees grow vigorously in a range of microclimates and fruit prolifically, yielding an average of 500 pounds a year. But the Islands know little of Meyer lemons. The fruit is rarely found in grocery stores and only sparsely in farmers’ markets. They may know the name, but few people know the fruit, a thinskinned, aromatic lemon-mandarin orange cross from China. Even Hawaiì’s handful of growers—small farms scattered around the Islands—don’t have much to say. “They make great lemonade,” said Steve Marquis of Chez Marquis Farm in Holualoa. “Sorbet,” says Michael Katz of Greek Gekko Farm in Kealakekua. “You know,” they say, and you can almost see the shoulders shrugging, “use it wherever you use lemons.” This familiarity gap is one reason Meyer lemons are featured in The Hawaiì Farmers Market Cookbook, Vol. 2 (Hawaiì Farm Bureau/Watermark Publishing, spiral softcover, $15.95), which showcases lesser-used local foodstuffs. The cookbook team, led by editor Joan Namkoong, selected several dozen vegetables, fruits, meats and seafoods and asked a cadre of

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well-known Island chefs to develop home cook-friendly recipes for each. “I love Meyer lemons,” said Namkoong. “A good one is juicy, thinskinned and sweeter than a regular lemon. You can eat a good Meyer lemon as it is, like an orange; the flavor is aromatic and well balanced. There’s nothing like a Meyer lemon tart!” She assigned Meyer lemons to Mike Nevin, chef-owner of the Pavilion Cafe, who employed the fruit in a tangy shallot salad dressing and in a compound butter that pairs the lemons with salty kalamata olives, meant to be spread on crisp baguette slices and topped with radishes and sea salt. In California, where iconic Chez Panisse chef-owner Alice Waters began talking them up 20 years ago, Meyer lemons are so firmly established that the Los Angeles Times could readily come up with “100 things to do with a Meyer lemon” earlier this year. But Meyer lemons almost disappeared from California groves. The state’s entire crop had to be destroyed in the 1940s because the trees harbored a virus, citrus tristeza, which threatened the state’s important citrus industry. Fortunately, a virus-resistant “Improved Meyer Lemon” was propagated in the 1960s by Four Winds Growers in Winters, California (fourwindsgrowers.com).

In their native China, the trees are considered ornamentals, their star-shaped white flowers scenting the winter air of courtyards and sitting rooms. Grower and agricultural activist Ken Love of Captain Cook (HawaiiFruit.Net; LoveFamilyFarms.com) says the story of the Meyer lemon—its history and its name—incorporates adventure and happy accident involving two legendary figures in the botanic world: agricultural explorer (his actual Department of Agriculture title) Frank N. Meyer and botanist David Fairchild of the Florida-based Office of Foreign Seed and Plant Introduction, for whom the Fairchild mango would be named. Meyer and Fairchild collaborated on the introduction of more than 2,000 plant species, the hardy multilingual Meyer roaming remote Asian regions, Fairchild cataloging and propagating his finds. En route home in 1908, Meyer noticed an attractive fruiting tree in the doorway of a Peking home and was drawn to its crinkled leaves splashed with shades of color from emerald to butter. He begged a taste of the fruit and a cutting and fetched the sample back to Florida. The tree arrived as S.P.I. No. 23028 but Fairchild renamed it for his intrepid friend and helped popularize the tree with backyard gardeners.

pounded relish with green onion and garlic for grilled chicken. “We use them whenever they’re available,” said Hanney. And that’s almost year-round. At Green Gekko Farms in Kealakekua, for example, peak season is winter but there’s also a flush of mid-summer production. Down the Kona coast and at a higher elevation in Holualoa, they harvest mid-winter through spring and even early summer. “They seem to have a mind of their own,” said Michael Katz of Green Gekko, where four trees produce about 900 pounds annually. “Our trees surprise us constantly. They just seem to produce like crazy.” If you buy a Meyer lemon tree at one of Hawai`i’s big-box stores, chances are it was propagated at Alluvion Inc., a North Shore nursery operated by Susan Matsushima. Unlike Love, she doesn’t see Meyer lemons as having a commercial future. “They’re just a great thing to have in your yard. I wish more people knew about them.”

Due to their thin skin, which bruises and toughens, Meyer lemons don’t travel well and haven’t been well received by the mainstream produce industry. But today’s farmers’ markets and their foodie customers look beyond the fruit’s delicate complexion.

Meyer Lemons (Citrus x Meyeri), aka Valley Lemon, aka whiteflower lemon (bahk fa limung)

In the Islands, Meyer lemons are a microscopic industry but if Ken Love could communicate his passion to more farmers and backyard growers, that would change. Love gets positively apopleptic when he talks about how many hundreds of thousands of pounds of citrus we import each year while our own lemons and oranges rot on the trees. (See his rant at http://www.hawaii247.com/2008/12/22/farmingwith-love-citrus-in-the-islands/)

Fruit: Large and round or ovoid

Given the producing power of Meyer lemon trees, just a tree or two can serve as a nice income stream for even a backyard home grower.

Grown in: California, Florida, Texas, Hawai`i.

Adaptations, a boutique wholesaler on the Hawai`i Island, buys Meyer lemons from local growers, most of whom have fewer than half a dozen trees. The fruit are sold to local restaurants. Among these is 12th Ave Grill, where chef Kevin Hanney and his staff turn them into Moroccan-style preserved lemons, a sour-salty foil for the richness of fried calamari. “We really like them for this because the skin is smoother and a there’s less pith,” said Hanney. They also incorporate Meyer lemon juice into a special beurre blanc (butter sauce) for seafood, a marinade for leg of lamb and in a

A cross between Citrus limon, standard lemon (Lisboa or Eureka), and Citrus reticulata, the mandarin orange.

Color: From celadon green to bright yellow-orange. Thin skin produces sharply acid zest; flesh and juice sweeter and more acid-balanced than standard lemons. Season: Winter/spring elsewhere; variable in Hawai`i — in some Island microclimates, everbearing.

Growing them: Easily grown from cuttings. May be grafted on lemon or sweet orange rootstock. Dwarf varieties thrive in pots. Little-known fact: Italy’s beloved limoncello liqueur is made with Meyer lemons. Local resources: HawaiiFruitnet; Frankie’s Nursery, 41-999 Mahiku Pl., Waimanalo, O`ahu, 259-8737, frankiesnursery.com; soniatasteshawaii.com Sources: meyerlemontree.com; Four Winds Growers; killerplants.com; wikipedia.com; National Agricultural library (http://search.nal.usda.gov/nalsearch/)

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What to do with Meyer lemons: Make a tangy relish, bake a dessert, take an Italian turn or prepare a Moroccan condiment.

Meyer Lemon Cake Top Pudding This homespun recipe is a composite of two from different cookbooks, both by the late Isle food writer Maili Yardley. It’s a luscious concoction in which some strange alchemy allows a custardy cake batter to cleave itself into two layers: a moist cake on the bottom and a decadent pudding up top. 1 tablespoon melted butter ¾ cup sugar Pinch of salt 2 tablespoons flour 2 well-beaten egg yolks

Meyer Lemon and Olive Butter Here’s Mike Nevin’s Meyer Lemon and Olive Butter appetizer from The Hawai`i Farmers Market Cookbook, Vol. 2. Zest of 2 Meyer lemons

¼ cup lemon juice 1 tablespoon grated lemon peel 1 cup scalded milk 2 stiffly beaten egg whites Garnish: confectioners sugar or whipped cream

1 cup pitted kalamata olives 1 cup (8 ounces) unsalted butter, at room temperature ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 baguette, sliced 15 fresh Island radishes, slices Coarse sea salt

Using a food processor, blend lemon zest, olives, butter and pepper, pulsing 7 or 8 times. Transfer to a serving bowl. Spread baguette slices with butter mixture and top with sliced radishes and sprinkle with coarse salt.

Preheat oven to 325°. Butter a 1½-quart casserole. Place it in a large deep pan. Put some water on to simmer. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together butter, sugar and flour. Add egg yolks, lemon juice, lemon peel and milk. Fold in beaten egg whites. Pour this mixture into the prepared casserole. Place the casserole in the large pan. Pour warm water around the casserole and place in 325° oven for 35 minutes to an hour, until fully set. Serve warm, not hot. Top with confectioners sugar or a dollop of whipped cream Variation: Make individual desserts in ramekins.

Meyer Lemon alla Italia

Salt-Preserved Meyer Lemons

Toss hot linguine with feta or other goat cheese, toasted walnuts, baby shrimp, the juice of two Meyer lemons, olive oil, salt and pepper. Or combine spaghetti with minced shallots, Parmigiano-Reggiano, walnut oil, creme fraiche or sour cream, salt and pepper and the juice of a couple of Meyer lemons. Or top a baked cheese pizza with very thinly sliced slivers of Meyer lemon, florets of broccoli rabe and drizzles of chili oil (this idea from the restaurant Piccino).

To make Morrocan-style salt-preserved lemons, wash Meyer lemons and make four deep longitudinal cuts evenly spaced around each fruit, leaving the slices attached at the end. Pour a couple of tablespoons of salt in the bottom of a sterile quart jar, place a lemon on top, sprinkle well with more salt and continue until the jar is full of layered lemons and salt. Cover tightly. Age—at room temperature or refrigerated—for several days.

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book reviews The Gift of Books for this Holiday Season is always a favorite of the staff at edible Hawaiian Islands; these were some of the many favorites. Look for more suggestions on our website.

the art oF Preserving Sweet & savory recipes to enjoy seasonal produce year round BY RICK FIELD AND REBECCA COURCHESNE WITH LISA ATWOOD Who doesn’t want to savor the flavor of the farmers’ market and backyard garden all year-round? The age-old art of preserving allows you to capture the pure essence of fruits and vegetables – and enjoy local produce throughout the entire year. Pickling and Preserving connects you to a particular place and moment in time, whether you crave the lush sweetness of figs or tart pickle relish, this delicious read enables you to take your favorite flavors from the garden to the pantry. If you are ready to give canning and preserving a try, The Art of Preserving From Williams-Sonoma is for you. $29.95: Hardcover, Available at Williams-Sonoma or your favorite bookseller.

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Williams-Sonoma Art of Preserving

Meyer Lemon–Ginger Marmalade For the best texture, the lemons must be sliced very thinly, which is most easily done with a mandoline. The liberal use of lemon juice brings out the floral qualities of the Meyer lemon, which are tempered in cooking. The ginger (fresh and crystallized) can be omitted if desired. 2 lb (1 kg) Meyer lemons About 8 cups (4 lb/2 kg) sugar, or as needed 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) fresh Meyer lemon juice 1 Tbsp peeled and grated fresh ginger 1 Tbsp finely chopped crystallized ginger

Makes 7 or 8 half-pint (8–fl oz/250-ml) jars Have ready hot, sterilized jars and their lids (see page 228). Place 2 or 3 small plates in the freezer. Cut off the ends of each lemon. Slice each lemon as thinly as possible, preferably on a mandoline. Place the slices in a large nonreactive saucepan and add 8 cups (64 fl oz/2 l) water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat. Measure the lemon slices and their liquid and return to the saucepan. For each 1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml), add 11 /4 cups (10 oz/315 g) sugar. Add the lemon juice. Bring to a boil over medium heat and boil rapidly, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Add the fresh ginger and continue to boil, stirring occasionally, until slightly thickened, 10–15 minutes longer. Remove from the heat. Use 1 tsp marmalade and a chilled plate to test if the marmalade is ready (see page 231). When the marmalade is ready, stir in the crystallized ginger. Ladle the hot marmalade into the jars, leaving 1 /4 inch (6 mm) of headspace. Remove any air bubbles and adjust the headspace, if necessary. Wipe the rims clean and seal tightly with the lids. Process the jars for 10 minutes in a boiling-water bath (for detailed instructions, including cooling and testing seals, see pages 228– 229). The sealed jars can be stored in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year. If a seal has failed, store the jar in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.

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book reviews The Gift of Books for this Holiday Season is always a favorite of the staff at edible Hawaiian Islands; these were some of the many favorites. Look for more suggestions on our website.

holy shit Managing Manure to Save Mankind BY GENE LOGSDON The Contrary Farmer Gene Logsdon is back with the inside story of manure – our greatest, yet most misunderstood, natural resource. With his trademark humor, his years of experience writing about farming and waste management, this fresh, fascinating and entertaining look at an earthy, but absolutely crucial, subject is a small gem and is destined to become a classic of the agricultural world. $17.50 at a Bookseller near you, Published by Chelsea Green Publishing

love at First Bite The unofficial Twilight Cook Book BY GINA MEYERS If you are a Twilight fan or know someone who is, what a perfect holiday gift. This international phenomenon, known as Twilight fever has ignited a fire in the kitchen. Brimming with juicy, forbidden recipes and delectable delights brace yourself, and bring your very best table manners and your appetites. Some of our favorites are Bell’s Lasagna, Blushing Bella Punch, I Dare You To Eat Pizza Edward. Besides recipes, you’ll also find cast lists, Twilight Party Planning, Bella’s Prom Planner and lots of trivia. Take a Bite! $14.95 at a Bookseller near you, Published by iUniverse

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Cooking Fresh From My Kitchen to Yours gifts Made with love

It wasn’t easy to decide which recipes to share with our readers for our second annual homemade gifts issue. I tested and ate a multitude of cookies, cakes, candies, coffee cakes and nut breads. After all was said and done, I decided to steer away from the sweet things. Made with love, lovely to share and easy to make in your kitchen, each of these delicious recipes brings new life into holiday gift giving. Pickled Pink Fresh Hearts of Palm, Crispy Cheese Cookies, Rustic Maui Onion Bread and Spiced Fig Chutney—all are festive and savory with just a hint of sweet. Hearts of palm take on a new identity, pickled! Prettier in pink, fresh hearts of palm are turned rosy-red by adding tiny heart-shaped sliced beets to the brine. Pickled Pink Hearts of Palm are simple to make. Blend equal parts rice vinegar, water, salt and pickling spices; simmer for 5 minutes, let cool, then pour into your favorite glass jars. Pop those into the refrigerator for a few days and you are in pickle heaven. Made from an easy slice-and-bake dough, Crispy Cheese Cookies are better than store- bought. These little gems are made with a secret ingredient: crushed Rice Krispies. Bagged, boxed or piled into big cookie jars, they are great for giving and eating. 34

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I’m a baker at heart and making fresh bread is my true passion. Rustic Maui Onion Bread baked with caramelized slow-cooked onions and fresh rosemary is foolproof. The dough doesn’t require kneading, which is a time saver. You’ll barely break a sweat. I promise you will make this recipe over and over again. Sweet ripe figs are heavenly to eat and when the season is over, they are gone. Preserve the fig harvest by making Spiced Fig Chutney. A chutney is a hot relish preserved in a jar. All the ingredients for the chutney simmer in port wine or cranberry juice with cinnamon sticks and star anise. Fig chutney is wonderful served with local Hawaiian goat cheese. Add fig chutney in your favorite holiday stuffing. These flavors harmonize with grilled lamb and chicken salad. A few tablespoons of fig chutney will enhance any homemade vinaigrette. These delectable new food gifts will fill your kitchen with warm aloha, wishing you endless celebrations and a bountiful holiday season filled with just enough sweetness, spice and deliciousness to make it the best ever.

Food Styling by Lauren Haas and Betsy Leder, Photography by Dahlia Haas

BY DAHLIA HAAS

Crispy Cheese Cookies Makes 80 cookies You can make these cookies with whole-wheat flour or a combination of white and wheat flour. Add cumin or caraway seeds to the dough for a change of taste. Lemon zest would be nice too. Rolling the uncooked dough in parchment or wax paper is important because they are easier to slice and store until needed. 8 ounces sharp cheddar cheese, grated 5 ounces jalapeño jack cheese, grated 1¼ cups (2½ sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature 2¼ cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary leaves, finely diced ½ teaspoon red Hawaiian salt, ground 2 cups Rice Krispies cereal 1 cup almonds, finely ground to a powder

Preheat oven to 375°. Line baking sheets with parchment paper or grease generously with oil or cooking spray. In the large bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the cheeses and butter together on medium speed till well blended. Add the flour, rosemary and salt and gently mix until well combined. Crush the cereal with your hands and add to flour-cheese mixture using a plastic spatula. Roll the dough in a 1½-inch log; place dough on a large sheet of parchment paper or wax paper and wrap the entire log. Twist the ends of the paper to enclose the dough. Chill until ready to use, ideally overnight. When you are ready to bake the cookies, discard the parchment paper and roll the entire log in the ground almond meal and carefully slice the dough into ½-inch discs. Place discs on a greased baking pan, ½ inch apart, and press each cookie with a fork to flatten and round out the edges. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until light golden brown. Remove from the oven and transfer to wire racks to cool. The cookies will keep in an airtight container for up to 1 week or can be frozen for up to1 month.

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Rustic Maui Onion Bread Makes one 15- by 10-inch pan This is a great recipe. You can add all sorts of different toppings: roasted garlic, cheese, rosemary, olives, tiny tomatoes or any seasonal vegetables. Surprisingly, this bread toasted tastes even better on day two! I use this bread to make sandwiches and panini. 2 cups lukewarm water (80–90° F.) 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon active dry yeast or 15 grams fresh active yeast 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons salt 3 ½ to 4 cups all-purpose flour (can be made using half wheat and half white flour) Reserve ½ cup flour Topping: caramelized Maui onions 1 large Maui onion, thinly sliced

warm, draft-free area until doubled in volume, about 45 minutes to an hour. Do not punch down. (If you are making the dough ahead for baking the next day, place in refrigerator before allowing to rise.) While bread is proofing, heat a large sauté pan over a medium flame, add the oil and the onions, stirring till the onions brown. Add the brown sugar to further caramelize the onions. Let cool. Can be made a day ahead and stored in the refrigerator till needed. For same-day bread, when dough has doubled, do not punch down. Oil a 15- by 10- by 1-inch baking sheet. Slide dough out into prepared pan. Dough will be soft and will slide easily.

2 tablespoons olive oil 3 tablespoons brown sugar

Put 2 cups lukewarm water in large bowl. Stir in sugar. Sprinkle yeast over top of water and allow to soften for 20 minutes in a warm area. Add to the yeast mixture the olive oil, salt and one cup of flour. Stir with a large whisk until all lumps disappear. Add flour, ½ cup at a time, stirring vigorously after each addition. Dough should be soft, sticky and not completely smooth looking. Whisk in the reserved ½ cup or of flour if the dough is still soft. Oil a large bowl and scrape the dough into it. Drizzle with oil to make sure the surface of the dough is oiled enough so as to not form a crust. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and allow to rise in a

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Gently pull, stretch and push dough so that it covers the sheet and fills corners. Brush the dough with another 1 tablespoon olive oil, Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm, draftfree area until puffed, about 1½ hours. Preheat oven to 400° and place rack in center of oven. Bake bread until golden brown, about 35–40 minutes. Bread will be done when edges have a hollow sound when tapped with your fingers. Allow to cool a couple of minutes, then transfer to rack to continue cooling.

Spiced Fig Chutney Makes 3 cups This recipe is my new favorite. I add fresh ginger and pepper when I want an even more savory product. Try it with a dash of madras curry or fennel seeds. Sometimes, if I have a lot of fresh fruit like tangerines, papaya, mango or pineapple, I add those into the simmering pot of chutney. Please do not forget to save some jars for yourself. You’ll be happy you did.

1 pound fresh figs, stemmed and quartered ½ cup coco-dates or pitted dates 1 cup raisins, tightly packed ¾ cup water or more if needed 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 cup port wine, red wine or cranberry juice 1 stick cinnamon 2 star anise

Put all the ingredients into a heavy-bottomed pot with enough water and wine to cover and gently simmer over very low heat, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon to prevent the fruit from burning, and squashing it to a smooth, thick paste against the sides of the pan. Continue cooking and stirring until all the liquid is dissolved, about 45 minutes, until the chutney is dry and sticky. Set aside to cool. Place mixture in the bowl, remove the cinnamon stick and star anise and discard. Place chutney in a covered dish and chill mixture in the refrigerator. Divide evenly in glass jars and seal each with the appropriate lids. Can be made a week in advance, and stored in the refrigerator.

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Pickled Pink Heart of Palm These are my invention and I love them! They are yummy eaten straight from the jar, added to a salad or skewered with other vegetables, like a kabob. Wrap some thinly sliced ahi crudo around these guys and you’ll have a beautiful pupu to share with friends. It’s always better to do your own preserving because you can add your signature spices and make them your own!

2 pounds fresh hearts of palm 1 small beet, raw, peeled 2 garlic cloves 1 tablespoon black peppercorns, whole 1 bay leaf 1 cup water 1 tablespoon salt 1 cup seasoned rice vinegar

Place hearts of palm in a sterilized widemouth jar. Slice beet into ¼-inch-thick slices. Using a small heart-shaped cookie cutter, make hearts from the beet slices. Set aside. Place garlic cloves, peppercorns and bay leaf in the jar with the hearts of palm. Heat water and salt in a small saucepan until salt is dissolved (see Note.) Add vinegar. Pour enough of the liquid into jar to cover hearts of palm and to fill jar. If necessary, add more salted water, allowing one tablespoons salt for every 2 cups of liquid. Add beet hearts. Cover tightly and refrigerate. Taste to check if hearts of palm are flavorful enough; pickling will take at least 4 days. They keep up for up to 2 weeks. Note: For faster pickles, bring water and salt to a boil in a small saucepan. Remove from heat and add vinegar.

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FALL 2010

Edible Excerpt Fall/Winter 2010

the reign of terroir ROWAN JACOBSEN The term terroir has been used by different people in very different ways, and there is still a lot of confusion about what it includes. For example, locavores tend to get enthusiastic about terroir as a means for promoting local foods, but regionalism, tradition, and terroir are not the same thing. Manhattan clam chowder, Montreal bagels, and Seattle coffee are not examples of terroir. Cajun gumbo is, as it’s a dish that evolved to celebrate the best of what the land had to offer (crayfish, sassafras leaves, and so on). And though tradition is often a good indicator of terroir, especially in Europe, where they have had centuries to work out which agricultural products do best in a given place, terroir need not be traditional. Some of the best American wines come from new and surprising places with no grape-growing history. To understand how the idea of terroir has morphed, why it has such power, and why it is only now being embraced in America, it helps to know the history of the concept, which is undoubtedly as old as agriculture itself, or possibly older. Did early hunter-gatherers notice that the shellfish near the mouth of a bay were saltier than those near the head, or that the fruit in the south-facing valley was bigger than that on the shaded, north-facing slopes? How could they not? From there, it’s an easy path to detecting increasingly fine distinctions from increasingly specific locales, and then to endlessly debating their respective merits. Although the French get credit for concretizing the term, they certainly have no monopoly on the concept. The Greeks of 2,500 years ago favored wines from the Aegean islands of Chios and Thásos. The Thasians even had rules governing the production and distribution of their wines that are not unfamiliar to today’s French appellations. The Thasians dried the grapes they used to make wine and boiled the must to produce a high- alcohol, sweet, nearly black wine of excellent repute. The wine could not be watered down before shipment (as was done with many other wines). The amphorae that carried the wine (also made on Thásos) even had to be of a uniform size. As a rule, the Greek and Egyptian wine trade stamped any amphorae with the location and vintage of the wine it contained. People cared. If the concept of terroir was alive and well in ancient Rome, it still took the French, with their fondness for regulations and hierarchy, to systematize it. In the Middle Ages, many of the best vineyards in Burgundy were carefully worked by Cistercian monks, whose stan40

FALL 2010

EDIBLE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

dards were impeccable. They made their best wines from the Pinot Noir grape, and Burgundy wine developed quite a name, thanks to their efforts. Over time, certain regions of France developed fine reputations for their wines, and some of these areas even became synonymous with the wines. Champagne is the most famous example, and in fact the Champagne vignerons were the first to seek name protection from the French government, in the early 1900s. Of course, lots of other places could produce a sparkling white wine if they tried, and they did, calling it “champagne,” which to many people was synonymous with sparkling wine. Thus the Champagne houses desired to protect their brand. They made a good case. Their region had a unique climate and an unusual chalky soil created by marine organisms sixty- five million years earlier. It couldn’t be “Champagne” unless it came from Champagne. The government agreed. Today, in continuing efforts to regulate quality, the rules sometimes cover everything from allowable yields to aging techniques. Starting in 1990, they also expanded beyond wine to protect everything from Camembert cheese and Bresse chickens to Corsican honey and even Puy lentils. Italy, Spain, Portugal, Switzerland, and Germany all have adopted similar systems. Yet these traditions, as codified in the appellation systems of Europe, can also be stultifying. Because the ingredients and techniques for making things like Champagne and Roquefort cheese are set by law, nothing changes. Innovation is rare. It’s reassuring to know that Roquefort will always be Roquefort, but it’s also predictable. In America things are different. Perhaps because we have less history, because we are immigrants and our connections to the land aren’t so rooted in family ancestry, we are less interested in what the land has been or has meant and are more excited about what it can do. If our terroir is immature, it’s also youthful, with all the energy and exuberance that brings. If you want to tour the museum of old terroir masterpieces, go to France and Italy. If you want to visit the galleries where new artists are trying new things, look around America. Indeed, something extraordinary and unprecedented is happening. You see it in more and more food markets, farmers’ markets, and restaurants: a spontaneous upwelling of passion for beautiful foods and the way they are made. Most observers thought that the artisan

food movement would come and go, that people would tire of the expense and inconvenience and return to the supermarket. They didn’t understand that the trend was answering a deep, pent-up desire. Though this passion feels new, it began, like so many other contemporary trends in American society, with the seismic shifts of the 1960s. In the United States, characteristically, the reaffirmation of the countryside came from a rebellion against government, first in the back-to-the-land movement of the forties and fifties, and then in its love child, the sixties. From naked hippies on Tennessee communes to virtually naked vegetables on plates served at Berkeley, California’s Chez Panisse, a new veneration of the land and the simple life arose. Earthy was in. Yet, in a way, it didn’t take. Sure, we reminisced about our Bohemian youth and went to Chez Panisse for a special treat, but meanwhile our diet and lifestyle were getting farther and farther from any connection to place. We lived in cookie-cutter suburbs and ate at Chi-Chi’s. Even if we were part of the minority who still cooked regularly, we used supermarket ingredients that, in the process of being moved around the world, had had their identity whitewashed as completely as any participant in the witness protection program. And it wasn’t terribly satisfying. I believe that our recent interest in the terroir of wine—and, by extension, of local food—is simply one manifestation of a much more fundamental desire. Maybe you have to be disconnected from the earth for a generation or two to truly appreciate the profundity of being connected to it. Or maybe you just have to be burned enough times by the current system. As Mateo Kehler, cheese maker at Jasper Hill Farms in Vermont put it, “the whole industrial food system is failing. It’s hugely successful on one level, and on another you’ve got salmonella-tainted tomatoes and E. coli spinach.” When a single E. coli– laden hamburger bought at Sam’s Club, as documented by the New York Times, contains fresh fatty edges from Omaha, lean trimmings

from old cows in Texas, frozen trimmings from cattle in Uruguay, and heated, centrifuged, and ammonia- treated carcass remnants from South Dakota, maybe it’s time to start paying attention. Maybe it’s only natural to feel that a single food should come from a single place and taste like it. When most of us were more or less responsible for getting our own food, whether farming or foraging, reading the landscape was essential to survival. Understanding how it worked, and how to work with it, was no elitist activity. At the core, our interest in terroir is an enduring desire to partner with a landscape, survive on it, and live well. At some level, our survival still depends on somebody knowing how to nurture the many living things we depend on. Most of us have outsourced this knowledge to thousands of rural people we will never know, but that doesn’t mean we are any freer from the earth. It just means we can no longer make the connections. Ultimately, that’s what meaning is— grasping the connections between things. We are some of the first people in history not to have built-in connections to the land we inhabit, not to be able to take comfort and pleasure in its verities. Paying attention to terroir is one of the best and most enjoyable ways to reestablish the relationship. It can teach us much about who we are, why we like what we like, and how we go about living on this earth. It can allow us to rediscover a romance that is exhilarating, fortifying, and real.

Rowan Jacobsen writes about food, the environment, and the connections between the two. His work has appeared in the Art of Eating, the New York Times, Harper’s, Newsweek, Eating Well, and elsewhere. He is the author of the James Beard Award-winning A Geography of Oysters, Fruitless Fall, and The Living Shore.

FALL 2010

Table for Four, Please

FaMilY tiMe BY LILY KATZ PHOTO BY OMER SEHAYEK

I’m still sleeping but I know it’s morning. It’s Saturday and I know my family has no place to be, there’s no schedule to keep and, best of all, my mom is making breakfast. She gets up before everyone and I can smell she’s making MauiGrown coffee. She is trying to be quiet but I can hear the pan for the bacon softly bump against the waffle maker. I know she’s making banana chocolate chip waffles, my favorite. I can hear our dog, CC, too. Her dog tags clap against her collar as she makes her way out the front door, following my mom to get the newspaper and pick a papaya from our tree on the side of our house. When I wake up I will set the table. But there’s is no way I’m doing the dishes! Eating a meal around the table with my family is something I appreciate. My mom tries to do everything just right. She hates to get up in the middle of a meal to grab a serving spoon. She enjoys cooking and feeding the family and I like it too. We even bring CC’s food and water bowl inside—I love to hear the noise when she drinks her water. I think I’m lucky to have my family around the table, eating good food. I wonder how many kids are eating cold cereal alone in front of the TV right now.

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It’s really cool when we have friends over for dinner or, better yet, when family comes to visit during the holidays. It’s a commitment to come to Maui, so we start planning way in advance. My mom and I start getting cookbooks out and scouring for old favorite recipes; my dad helps, too. We think about what’s fresh in the garden or may be inspired by something else. My brother and I try and help as much as we can. The rule is whoever sets the table doesn’t need to do the dishes. The holidays are coming soon. The air outside will be a little cooler and I know we will all be together. Our entire house is built around the kitchen and dining room. All I can say is that sitting around the dinner table, with food I like and the family I love, is a really good feeling, I can’t really explain it more than that. So this morning the table is set for four, just me, my older brother Noah and my mom and dad. Don’t forget our little dog CC too.

Lily Katz is 10 years old and lives in Maui.

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EDIBLE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

Farmers’ Markets Kaua’i Farmers’ Markets SATURDAY Kaua`i Community Market At Kaua`i Community College Front Parking Lot (across from Grove Farm) 10:00 am – 1:pm Kekaha Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Elepaio Road, Kekaha 9 a.m. Kilauea Keneke St. Behind the post office 11:30 am.

A local tip: Get there early!

WEDNESDAY Kapaà New Town Park (Sunshine Markets) Kahau Road, Kapaà 3 p.m. Kauaì Culinary Market 4:00pm – 6:00pm Kukuiùla Village, Poìpu In Conjunction w/ Kauaì County Farm Bureau

THURSDAY

MONDAY West Kauaì Agricultural Association Poìpu Road and Cane Haul Road, Poìpu 8 a.m.

Waimea Town Market At Parker School 65-1224 Lindsey Road Waimea/Kamuela HI 96743 Sat. 8:00 a.m. - 1:00 pm.

Hanapepe Park (Sunshine Markets) Old Hanapepe Town 3 p.m.

Waimea Hawaiian Homestead Farmers’ Market Mamalahoa Hwy., 2 miles east of Waimea town 7:00 a.m. – 12:00 noon

Kilauea Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Keneke off Lighthouse Road, Kilauea 4:30 p.m.

Honokaa Farmers’ Market Honokaa town near Honokaa Trading Co. Hilo Farmers’ Market

FRIDAY Hanalei Saturday Market Hanalei 10 a.m.–1:30 p.m.

North Kohala Across from Hawi Post Office, under banyan tree 7 a.m.–noon

Vidinha Stadium (Sunshine Markets) Hoolako Road, Lihue 3 p.m.

Hawai`i Island Farmers’ Markets SATURDAY

SUNDAY Pahoa Farmers’ Market Luquin’s/Akebono Theater parking lot 8 a.m.–3 p.m. Makuu Farmers’ Market Keaau-Pahoa bypass road 8 a.m.–2 p.m. Volcano Farmers’ Market Cooper Center, Wright Rd., Volcano 6:30–9 a.m.

Koloa Ball Park (Knudsen) (Sunshine Markets) Maluhia Road, Koloa Noon

Keauhou Farmers’ Market Keauhou Shopping Center, Keauhou 8a.m. – 12 noon

Kukui Grove Shopping Center Lihue 3 p.m.

Kinoòle Farmers’ Market Kinoòle Shopping Plaza 1990 Kinoòle St., Hilo 7 a.m.-noon

TUESDAYS AND FRIDAYS

Space Farmers’ Market Space Performing Arts Center 12-247 West Pohakupele Loop Pahoa, HI 96778 Sat. 8:00a.m. – 11:30 a.m.

Kekela Farms Organic Farmers Mkt 64-604 Mana Road Waimea, HI 808-887-0023 Tues. & Fri. 2:00-5:00pm 100% organic

Waikoloa Village Farmers’ Market Waikoloa Community Church across from Waikoloa Elementary School 7:30 a.m.–1 p.m.

Corner of Mamo and Kamehameha Ave., downtown Hilo Saturdays, 8 a.m.–noon

TUESDAY Kalaheo Neighborhood Center (Sunshine Markets) Papalina Road off Kaumualii, Kalaheo 3:30 p.m. Hawaiian Farmers of Hanalei Waipa, Hanalei 2 p.m.

South Kona Green Market At the Amy Greenwell Ethnobotanical Garden Captain Cook 9 a.m. – I pm

WEDNESDAYS AND SATURDAYS

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FALL 2010

Naalehu Farmers’ Market Ace Hardware lawn 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Royal Kunia Park-n-Ride (People’s Open Market) Kupuna Lp/Kupohi Street, Waipahu 9:30–11 a.m.

O`ahu Farmers’ Markets

Waikele Community Park (People’s Open Market) Waipahu 11:30 a.m. –12:30 p.m.

WEDNESDAYS

SATURDAYS Banyan Court Mall (People’s Open Market) 800 North King Street, Honolulu 6:15–7:30 a.m. Kaumualii Street (People’s Open Market) at Kalihi Street, Honolulu 8:15–9:30 a.m. Kalihi Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 1911 Kam IV Road, Honolulu 10–10:45 a.m. Salt Lake Municipal Lot (People’s Open Market) 5337 Likini Street, Honolulu 11:15a.m. –Noon Hawai`i Kai Park-n-Ride (People’s Open Market) 300 Keahole Street, Honolulu 1–2 p.m. North Shore Country Market at Sunset Sunset Beach Elementary School, Haleiwa 8 a.m. –2 p.m. The Saturday Farmers’ Market at Kapiolani Community College Campus 4303 Diamond Head Road, Honolulu 7:30–11 a.m. Waialua Farmers’ Market Waialua Sugar Mill 8:30 a.m. –Noon Hawai`i Kai Town Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu 7:30 a.m. –3 p.m. Waianae Framers’ Market Makaha Resort 84-626 Makaha Valley Road Waianae, 808-848-2074 1st and 3rd Sat of the month 7:30 a.m. – 11 a.m.

SUNDAYS Hale`iwa Farmers’ Market The Heart of Hale`iwa Traffic Signal @ Kamehameha Hwy. & Cane Haul Rd. Next to the North Shore Marketplace (free parking) 9am.-1pm. Kapolei Community Park (People’s Open Market) 91-1049 Kamaaha Loop, Kapolei 7–8:30 a.m.

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EDIBLE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

The Mililani Sunday Farmers’ Market at Mililani High School 95-1200 Meheula Parkway, Mililani High School Parking Lot 8 a.m. –Noon Manoa Marketplace Honolulu 7–11 a.m. Country Market & Craft Fair Waimanalo Homestead Community Center 1330 Kalanianaole Hwy. 9 a.m.–4p.m. Waianae Framers’ Market Waianae High School 85-251 Farrington Hwy 8 a.m. – 11:30 a.m.

MONDAYS Manoa Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 2721 Kaaipu Avenue, Honolulu 6:45–7:45 a.m. Makiki District Park (People’s Open Market) 1527 Keeaumoku Street, Honolulu 8:30–9:30 a.m. Mother Waldron Park (People’s Open Market) 525 Coral Street, Honolulu 10:15–11 a.m. City Hall Parking Lot Deck (People’s Open Market) Alapai & Beretania Street, Honolulu 11:45 a.m.–12:30 p.m. Hawai`i Kai Town Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu 7:30 a.m.–3 p.m.

TUESDAYS Waiau District Park (People’s Open Market) 98-1650 Kaahumanu Street, Pearl City 6:30–7:30 a.m.

Fort Street near Wilcox Park Honolulu (in front of Macy’s) 8 a.m.–2 p.m. Manoa Marketplace Honolulu 7–11 a.m. Waikiki Farmers’ Market Waikiki Community Center Parking Lot 7 a.m.–1 p.m.

WEDNESDAYS Palolo Valley District Park (People’s Open Market) 2007 Palolo Avenue, Honolulu 6:30–7:30 a.m. . Old Stadium Park (People’s Open Market) 2237 South King Street, Honolulu 8:15–9:15 a.m. Queen Kapiolani Park (People’s Open Market) Monsarrat and Paki Street, Honolulu 10–11 a.m. Hawai`i Kai Towne Center Kalanianaole Highway at Keahole Street, Honolulu 7:30 a.m.–3 p.m. Honolulu Farmers’ Market at Neal Blaisdell Center Local Bounty 808-848-2074 4:00-7:00 pm Waialua Farmers’ Co-Op At the Sugar Mill 4:30 p.m. – 7:00 p.m.

THURSDAYS Waimanalo Beach Park (People’s Open Market 41-741 Kalanianaole Highway, Waimanalo 7:15–8:15 a.m. Kailua District Park (People’s Open Market) 21 South Kainalu Drive, Kailua 9–10 a.m. Kaneohe District Park (People’s Open Market) 45-660 Keaahala Road, Kaneohe 10:45–11:45 a.m. Manoa Marketplace Honolulu 7–11 a.m.

Waipahu District Park (People’s Open Market) 94-230 Paiwa Street, Waipahu 8:15–9:15 a.m.

The Kailua Thursday Night Farmers’ Market Kailua town 5–7:30 p.m. behind Longs on Kailua Road

Wahiawa District Park (People’s Open Market) N. Cane & California Avenue, Wahiawa 10–11 a.m.

Halawa District Park (People’s Open Market) 99-795 Iwaiwa Street 7–8 a.m.

Mililani District Park (People’s Open Market) 94-1150 Lanikuhana Avenue, Mililani 11:45 a.m.–12:30 p.m.

FRIDAYS

Ewa Beach Community Park (People’s Open Market) 91-955 North Road, Ewa Beach 9–10 a.m. Pokai Bay Beach Park (People’s Open Market) 85-037 Pokai Bay Road, Waianae 11–11:45 a.m. Fort Street near Wilcox Park Honolulu (In front of Macy’s) 8 a.m. –2 p.m. Waikiki Farmers’ Market Waikiki Community Center Parking Lot 7 a.m. –1 p.m.

Maui Farmers’ Markets SATURDAY Maui Swap Meet Maui Community College 310 Ka`aumanu 7am.-1pm. Makawao Longs Parking Lot Pukalani 7a.m.-10a.m. Hana Health, Hana Medical Center 9a.m. - 5p.m.

SUNDAY Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana 9a.m. - 2p.m. Ono Organic Farms Across from Hasagawa Store, Hana 10:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

MONDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei 61 Kihei Rd Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei 8 a.m.–4 p.m. Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai 3636 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Kahana (Lahaina) 7a.m.–11 a.m. Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana 9a.m. - 5p.m. Ono Organic Farms Across from Hasagawa Store, Hana 10:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

TUESDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei 61 Kihei Rd Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei 8 a.m.–4 p.m.

Ono Organic Farms Across from Hasagawa Store, Hana 10:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

THURSDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei 61 Kihei Rd Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei 8 a.m.–4 p.m. Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana 9a.m. - 5p.m. Ono Organic Farms Across from Hasagawa Store, Hana 10:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

FRIDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei 61 Kihei Rd Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei 8 a.m.–5 p.m.

Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana 9a.m. - 5p.m.

Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai 3636 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Kahana (Lahaina) 7–11 a.m.

Ono Organic Farms Across from Hasagawa Store, Hana 10:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m.

Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana 9a.m. - 5p.m.

WEDNESDAY Farmers’ Market of Maui-Kihei 61 Kihei Rd Suda Store parking lot on South Kihei 8 a.m.–4 p.m. Farmers’ Market of Maui-Honokowai 3636 Lower Honoapiilani Road, Kahana (Lahaina) 7–11 a.m. Hana Health 4590 Hana Hwy, Hana 9a.m. - 5p.m.

Lana`i Farmers’ Market SATURDAY Lana`i Market Place Dole Park 8 a.m.-1p.m.

Moloka`i Farmers’ Market SATURDAY Ala Malama Street Kaunakakai 7a.m.-1p.m.

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FALL 2010

advertiser directory This Directory is meant to help you quickly find our supporters listed by island, enjoy and let them know we sent you. Aloha

Kauaì Aunty Lilikoi 9875 Waimea Rd., Waimea, HI 96796 866-545-4564 • www.auntylilikoi.com Bar Acuda Restaurant Bar @ 5 p.m., Dinner @ 6 p.m. Reservations: 808-826-7081 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy Hanalei, Kauaì Closed Mondays www.restaurantbaracuda.com Hanalei Dolphin 5-5016 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei, Kauaì 808-826-6113 Healthy Hut On the way to Kilauea Lighthouse 808-828-6626 • www.healthyhutkauai.com Hendrikus Organics Soil Blends, USDA Approved 808-828-0099 • www.hendrikusorganics.com Hukilau Lanai Reservations Recommended Tues-Sun 5-9 808-822-0600 • www.hukilaukauai.com

Kalaheo Café & Coffee Co. On Highway 50 in Kalaheo 808-332-5858 • www.kalaheo.com Kilauea Fish Market 4270 Kilauea Rd., Kilauea, Kauaì 808-828-6244 Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.–8 p.m. Kilauea Town Market 2474 Keneke St., Kilauea, Kauaì 808-828-1512 • Daily 8:30 a.m.–8 p.m. Koa Properties 808-651-1777 www.koakauai.com Living Foods Market Kukuiùla Village Poìpu (on the south side) 808-742-2323 www.livingfoodskauai.com Moloaà Sunrise Fruit Stand Corner of Kuhio Hwy and Koolau Road Open Mon thru Sat 7:30am–5pm * Phone orders welcome 808-822-1441 Nani Moon Mead Tasting Room in Kapaà 4-939 D Kuhio Hwy 808-823-0486 www.nanimoonmead.com Papaya’s Kauaì Village Shopping Center In the courtyard by the waterfall Kapaà, Kauaì • 808-823-0190 Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.-8 p.m. Sun. 10-5 p.m. www.papayasnaturalfoods.com Harvest Market Hanalei 5-5161 Kuhio Hwy., Hanalei, Kauaì 808-826-0089 • 7 days 9 a.m.–8 p.m. Postcards Café Hanalei, Kauaì, Nightly from 6:00 808-826-1191 Princeville Center 5-4280 Kuhio Highway, Princeville, HI 96722 808-826-9497 • Fax 808-826-9850 www.princevillecenter.com

FALL 2010

EDIBLE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

The Wine Garden 4495 Puhi Road, Lihue, Kaua`i Open everyday 10am-6:30 pm 808-245-5766 • www.kauaiwinegarden.com

Oàhu Down to Earth For Locations on Oàhu, Maui & Hawaiì` Island, see our ad on pg. 15 www.DownToEarth.org Hagadone Printing Co. 274 Puuhale Road Honolulu, HI 96819 808-847-5310 www.hagadoneprinting.com Hokulani Bake Shop Restaurant Row * Pioneer Plaza 15 flavors of Cupcakes • 808-536-CAKE www.hokulanibakeshop.com twitter.com/HokulaniBakery Honu Group Inc. 1001 Bishop Street, ASB Tower, Suite 2800 Honolulu, Hawaiì 96722 808-550-4449 • tabenoja@honugroup.com www.honugroup.com Kula Fields On Oàhu808-281-6141 On Maui 808-280-2099 Sweet Paradise Chocolatier 20-A Kainehe Street,Kailua 808-230-8228 www.sweetparadisechocolate.com Whole Foods Market Kahala Mall in Honolulu, 4211 Waiàlae Ave 808-738-0820 – 7am-10pm www.wholefoodsmarket.com

Maui Alive & Well 340 Hana Highway, Kahului 808-877-4950 • www.aliveandwellinmaui.com Archipelago Hawai`i Lahaina Design Center (808) 781-3791 • www.lahainadesigncenter.com

Chef Susan Teton 808-250-1535 • www.chefteton.com Down To Earth For Locations on Oàhu, Maui & Hawaiì` Island, see our ad on pg. 15 www.DownToEarth.org Flatbread 89 Hana Hwy, Paia 808-579-8989 • www.flatbreadcompany.com Kula Fields On Maui 808-280-2099 On Oàhu 808-281-6141 Maui Cattle Company 808-877-0044 • www.mauicattlecompany.com Maui County Farm Bureau www.mauicountyfarmbureau.com MauiGrown Coffee 277 Lahainaluna Road, Lahina 808-661-2728 • www.MauiGrownCoffee.com Ocean Vodka Hawaiì Sea Spirits LLC 250 Alamaha St, S9, Kahului 808-877-0009 • www.oceanvodka.com Oliwa Tree Farms 808-344-6808 • 808-344-0654 Stephen@oliwatreefarms.com www.oliwatreefarms.com

Surfing Goat Dairy 18 National Awards 3651 Omaopio Rd., Kula • 808-878-2870 info@surfinggoatdairy.com www.surfinggoatdairy.com Chef Jana McMahon 808-281-8393 • www.chefjana.com Whole Foods Market Maui Mall 70 East Ka'ahumanu Ave 808-872-3310 – 8am-9pm www.wholefoodsmarket.com

Hawaiì Island Down To Earth For Locations on Oàhu, Maui & Hawaiì` Island, see our ad on pg. 15 www.DownToEarth.org Kona Coffee and Tea Toll Free 888-873-2035 In Kona 329-6577 www.konacoffeeandtea.com Original Hawaiian Chocolate Whole Foods Kahala/Oàhu 808-322-2626 • 888-447-2626 (toll free) www.ohcf.us

National

Ono Gelato Company 115D Highway-Paia • 808-579-9201 815 Front Street – Lahaina • 808-495-0203 1280 South Kihei Rd #101A • 808-495-0287 Open 7 days a week 11 am-10pm www.onogelatocompany.com

Slow Food - Hawai`i Island Shelby Floyd • sfloyd@ahfi.com

Ono Organic Farms Tours Mon-Fri 808-248-7779 • www.onofarms.com

Slow Food - Maui Susan Teton & Jana McMahon info@slowfoodmaui.org www.slowfoodmaui.org

PEAKfresh 877-537-3748 • www.PEAKfreshUSA.com Star Noodle 808-667-5400 • www.starnoodle.com Facebook & Twitter

Slow Food - Kaua`i Patrick Quinn Icingonthecake.Kauai@gmail.com

Slow Food - O`ahu Laurie Carlson • laurie@honoluluweekly.com Slow Food Nation www.slowfoodnation.org

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FALL 2010

What Is It and How Do You Eat It

romanesco Broccoli

Brassica oleracea or roman cauliflower also known as coral broccoli.

Rich in vitamin C, fiber, and carotenoids, this vegetable resembles a cauliflower, but is of a light green to yellow color and the inflorescence (the bud) has an approximate self-similar character, with the branched meristems making alogarithmic spiral. The broccoli's shape could be described as fractal; each bud is composed of a series of smaller buds, all arranged in yet another logarithmic spiral. This self-similar pattern continues at several smaller levels. Gail & Greg Smith (gailandgreg@mac.com) grow this broccoli on Hawai`i Island; they like to slice and grill it, then add a little herbs and olive oil. It can be treated as any broccoli, steam add a little garlic, olive oil and Pecorino Romanoâ&#x20AC;Ś. Yum!

FALL 2010

EDIBLE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS