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SAVOR AN UNCOMMON COMBO AT CHINA POBLANO
■ The unorthodox-but-routinely wonderful combination of Mexican and Chinese flavors is what sets China Poblano apart. Leave it to José Andrés to put dishes next to one another—guactopped potato tacos and barbecue pork steamed buns, for example—and e ortlessly achieve unprecedented savory satisfaction.
Now a new limited-time pairing curated by head chef Carlos Cruz-Santos threatens to take things to the next level at the colorful Cosmopolitan eatery. A special bao and mezcal menu is available through March 19, and if you’ve never imagined mixing dim sum with the smoky agave-based spirit, you’re not alone. But if you can imagine the delicate, possibly complex contrasts that can be achieved, you’re ready for this adventure.
There are four dishes matched with four mezcal tastings, along with a flight ($21) for those who want to sample all the spirits.
The steamed buns, known as When Pigs Fly ($16) at China Poblano, get matched up with the peppery, herbaceous Rancho Tepua Bacanora ($8). Chicken siu mai ($16) with wood ear mushrooms and goji berry are complemented by Del Maguey Crema ($8), known for its notes of vanilla and orange. Golden Pearls vegetable steamed dumplings ($16) are boldly matched with oak barrel-aged Xicaru Reposado ($9), and Yu Xiang eggplant ($15) with Fresno and shishito peppers, ginger and garlic chili oil is amplified by a sip of that same varietal.
Consider wrapping up the special experience with the rum-soaked, raspberry dusttopped tres leches cake ($15), and you’ve created a memorable masterpiece of a meal.
–Brock Radke
CHINA POBLANO Cosmopolitan, 702-698-7900, chinapoblano. com. Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday & Saturday, 11 a.m.-10:30 p.m.