SPRING 2022
GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN
exhibitions
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collection
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events
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Contents Plastic Rapt: A History of Designing Forever
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GMD Objects in Print
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6 Happy Retirement to Eunice Haugen!
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8 Magazine Layout and Design by Fadi Abuhaltam. To find more information and keep yourself up-to-date on GMD exhibitions and events, visit goldstein.design.umn.edu and follow us on social media.
Goldstein Museum of Design GoldsteinMuseum goldstein_museum Goldstein Museum of Design
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GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN
CONTENTS
Creativity Break!
A Carnival of Coats
Interview Title TBD
ELEVEN
T W E LV E
TEN
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2 T W E LV E
Welcome New Staff to the Goldstein!
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Fourteen Note from the Interim Director Jean McElvain
goldstein.design.umn.edu
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Fifteen Members, Donors and Sponsors Thank You
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Vitra Design Museum Miniature Collection, e V rner Panton Chairs, 1996-1997. Given in thanks for past GMD advisory board president Linda Mona.
Plastic Rapt:
A History of Designing Forever By Kathleen Campbell
Exhibition at Goldstein Gallery June 17 – September 25, 2022 We have a complex relationship with plastic. Stop and look around…and at yourself. From the shoes on your feet, to the paint on your walls, from medical implants to artificial turf—we are surrounded by plastic. We can’t get along without it, and we take its benefits for granted. Using objects from the Goldstein, this exhibition will examine the history of plastic and its beauty and diversity as a design material. Most of us are well aware that plastic has a dual nature: beautiful, quirky, colorful, and strong, but made into products of planned obsolescence. Plastic enhances our quality of life by solving design problems. It is also asphyxiating the earth’s oceans and atmosphere. Plastic can substitute for rare or expensive natural materials like wood, metal, or wool, but it is not designed to go away when we want it to. Celluloid, the earliest semi-synthetic plastic, was 4
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invented in 1870 as a substitute for ever-scarcer ivory, the material used for billiard balls at that time. Plastic’s use as a material imitating nature expanded from there. The exhibition will include many “faux” objects made from celluloid, including decorative combs and fans imitating tortoise shell, amber, and ivory. Bakelite (1907), the first true synthetic plastic, had diverse applications, including jewelry, toys, radios, and the decorative handles for things like cocktail shakers. Inventiveness around plastic was further unleashed during World War II with the development of nylon as a substitute for silk parachutes. This inventiveness has continued unabated, with the creation of everything from a molded-polypropylene chair to polyester double knits and CD players. Plastic Rapt: A History of Designing Forever acknowledges both plastic’s extreme versability as well as its inherently detrimental qualities, which cannot be completely neutralized. GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN
P L AST I C R A P T: A H I STO RY O F D E S I G N I N G F O R E V E R
goldstein.design.umn.edu
Platform shoes by Two Lips, 1995-2002. Anonymous gift.
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GMD Objects in Print By Eunice Haugen GMD’s collection images are used for many things, including social media, online exhibitions, and research. The request for images to be used in publications, textbooks, curriculum, and peer reviewed journals is on the rise. Here are some of the reproduction requests from the past year.
Maier, A.J. (2021). Is Cleopatra black?: Examining whiteness and the American New Woman. Humanities, 10(2), p68 In January 2021, art history Ph.D. candidate Angelica Maier requested a photo of a 1920s-era dress by Callot Soeurs that inspired her research. The resulting article “Is Cleopatra Black?: Examining Whiteness and the American New Woman" has been published by the journal Humanities for a special issue titled Gender, Race and Material Culture. Silk dress, 1925, by Callot Soeurs. Gift of Mrs. Roger (Katherine) Shepard.
Chrisman-Campbell, K. (2020). The Way We Wed: A Global History of Wedding Fashion. Philadelphia, Running Press. Costume Historian Kimberly ChrismanCampbell’s new book features GMD’s WAVES uniform (Women Accepted for Volunteer Emergency Service) worn by UMN Home Economics alum Dorothy Samuelson Leeds for her wedding to Herbert Leeds in 1944. During World War II, Dorothy applied for a commission in WAVES, the newly formed women’s branch of the Navy, and was named Senior Uniform Officer at the WAVES training station. Dorothy noted that “Between February 1943 and August 1945, my department put 90,000 women in navy blue. It was a unique experience because it was an unprecedented, ingenious, efficient, and cooperative effort between the military and six highly competitive New York department stores." This highly admired wool suit was created by highprofile American designer Mainbocher. 6
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WAVES uniform, 1942-1944, by Mainbocher. Gift of Dorothy Samuelson Leeds.
GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN
GMD OBJECTS IN PRINT
Raizman, D. (2020). History of Modern Design (2nd Ed.). London: Laurence King Publishing. Originally published in 2004, David Raizman’s book History of Modern Design is currently used as a text at over 100 colleges and universities worldwide, including the UMN College of Design’s course History of Product Design. The book features 577 illustrations including a screen-printed textile from the GMD collection, by Henriette Reiss designed in 1928 entitled Rhythm Series.
Screen-printed textile, 1928, by Henriette Reiss from Rhythm Series. Gift of the University Gallery-UMN.
Jachimowicz, E. (2019). Bes-Ben: Chicago’s Mad Hatter. Chicago: Art Vision, LLC. Elizabeth Jachimowicz’s book Bes-Ben: Chicago’s Mad Hatter includes one of GMD’s eight Bes-Ben hats in its glossy pages. As described in the book’s forward, the co-founder Bes-Ben was “…more than a milliner. He was an artist, visionary, and businessman, as well as an astute observer of people and culture.” The beaded birds on this hat exemplify the wit and humor that they used in adorning women.
Beaded hat, 1965, by Bes-Ben. Gift of Ethelyn J. Bros.
goldstein.design.umn.edu
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Happy Retirement to Eunice Haugen! By Jean McElvain Collection objects don’t magically populate in GMD’s database and fit with ease into storage areas. Nor are they simply hung up on a gallery wall with a nail, casually placed on a base, or quickly buttoned onto a mannequin. Caring for a 35,000+ object collection is something that Eunice has done with professionalism and skill since taking on the role of Registrar at the Goldstein Museum of Design in 2008. As she prepares for retirement in June 2022, we thought we’d take a moment to look back on some of her many accomplishments. 1. The Road to Digitization. In 2010, Eunice oversaw our entrance into digitization through the IMLS (Institute of Museum and Library Services) grant program. In writing the proposal, Eunice collaborated with UMN’s IT department, the Digital Content Library, and technical experts who understood digital photographic processes and meta data. Her own knowledge of collection data guided the selection of a new relational database that could house visual data. During the past 12 years Eunice has been instrumental in bringing in over $1 million in grant money for this ongoing project. 2. Get them Rolling! Eunice launched and executed the rehousing of GMD’s 4000+ object international textile collection. Prior to her arrival, textiles were stacked high and difficult to access. Eunice assessed all objects, grouped them by region and technique, cut custom length archival tubing, folded textiles that could not be rolled, labeled boxes, updated database locations, and reconciled the records of SO. MANY. 8
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TEXTILES!!! 3. Exhibition Installation. Eunice understands how to handle art. From mounting fragile textiles with insect pins to renting a cherry picker for hanging a large fabric sculpture in the middle of McNeal Hall’s atrium, Eunice knows the biz. Do you know how many times you should wash yardage before creating a pinboard for a museum object? Eunice does. Do you know how to create wood mounting cleats for text panels? Eunice does. And how many times has Eunice moved exhibition furnishings back and forth between the gallery and storage? As many times as you see exhibitions to the right. 4. Follow the Trail! Eunice has tracked down hundreds of records, reconciling orphaned objects with original donors. She has also overseen the acquisition of 5000+ objects since she began in 2008, which includes over 1900 scarves by Vera Neumann; 300+ objects from a product design collaboration between Design Guys, Michael Graves, and Target; 260+ studio ceramic pieces; and thousands of additional objects. Caring for new acquisitions requires grant money, which Eunice has persistently and successfully pursued over the years. Although it often remains behind the scenes, Eunice’s work is a critical part of GMD’s goals related to heritage preservation and collection resource accessibility. Besides all of the amazing things she has done for the Goldstein, Eunice’s good humor and camaraderie will be missed very much! Thank you Eunice! GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN
DURATION
Russel Wright: Living with Good Design
February 9 — April 20, 2008
Techno Textiles: Inner Space to Outer Space
May 16 — July 27, 2008
From Sportswear to Streetwear: American Innovation
August 16 — November 2, 2008
Sum of the Parts
November 22, 2008 — January 18, 2009
Expressions of Stability and Change
February 7 — June 14, 2009
Intersections: Where Art Meets Fashion
July 11 — November 1, 2009
How Secretaries Changed the 20th Century Office
February 6 — May 23, 2010
Flights of Fancy: A History of Feathers in Fashion
June 12 — September 12, 2010
Mao to Now: Chinese Fashion from 1949 to the Present
October 2, 2010 — January 17, 2011
Smart House, Livable Community, Your Future
February 5 — May 22, 2011
Beyond Peacocks and Paisleys: Handcrafted Textiles of India
June 10 — September 25, 2011
Polarities: Black and White in Design
October 15 — December 30, 2011
Character and Costume: A Jack Edwards Retrospective
January 21 — May 20, 2012
Quest for the World’s Best Baskets
June 8 — September 9, 2012
Printed Textiles: Pattern Stories
June 15 — August 25, 2013
Say it with Snap: Motivating Workers by Design, 1923-1929
September 13, 2013 — January 6, 2014
*Danish Modern
February 1 — April 27, 2014
*Signed by Vera: Scarves by an Iconic Designer
May 17 — June 29, 2014
*Design Cycles: A Bike Show
January 24 — May 10, 2015
*Alexey Brodovitch: Art Director
May 29 — September 20, 2015
*America’s Monsters, Superheroes, and Villains
October 10, 2015 — January 3, 2016
When Places Speak
January 23 — May 8, 2016
Seeing 40/40: Forty Years of Collecting at the Goldstein
September 10, 2016 — January 8, 2017
Global Technique, Local Pattern: Ikat Textiles
January 28 — May 14, 2017
Inside Her Clothes
June 3 — September 3, 2017
Jack Lenor Larsen at 90
September 23, 2017 — January 7, 2018
Storied Lives: Women and Their Wardrobes
January 27 — May 20, 2018
Demonstration Garden: Designing Flowers
June 9 — September 9, 2018
Looking Forward, Looking Back: 100 Years of Design Grad Ed
September 27, 2018 — January 20, 2019
Ruth Crane: A Collector’s Journey
January 26 — May 19, 2019
Dior to Disco: Fashion in the Era of Second Wave Feminism
June 15 — September 29, 2019
Creativity in Everyday Life
October 19, 2019 — January 5, 2020
Initial Impressions
January 25 — September 27, 2020
Totally Radical: Designing the 1980s
December 4, 2021 — May 27, 2022
HAPPY RETIREMENT TO EUNICE HAUGEN!
EXHIBITION TITLE — GOLDSTEIN GALLERY
*Mary Alice Chaney installation lead goldstein.design.umn.edu
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Creativity Break!
With a return of students to campus during the Fall 2021 semester came the return of the GMD Creativity Break! GMD Graduate Assistants invited students to take a chill pill from studying with 1980s inspired crafts and snacks. Sounds of the 80s blared through the McNeal Hall atrium as students chose between take-and-go kits of beaded safety pin jewelry or slap
Winners! 1st Place
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bracelets with stickers. Then they fueled up on Cool Ranch Doritos (launched in 1986) and Nerds candy (invented in 1983). We shared photographs of the final creations on Instagram, and the public voted on their favorites. The two winning students received a rad 1980s inspired fanny pack. Totally Tubular!
2nd Place
GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN
By Colleen Pokorny
A C A R N I VA L O F C OAT S
The Goldstein has an HBC blanket coat from the 1916 St. Paul Winter Carnival. The double-breasted coat features the iconic HBC green, red, yellow, and indigo/ black stripes on a white background. While our records
do not indicate if the original owner was a member of a specific marching club, the 1916 carnival program sheds light on who might have worn a similarly striped coat. A list of the participating marching clubs and their uniform colors states that Glacier Park Marching Club wore “red, white, green, yellow, and black uniforms.” Glacier Park was the club name given to Louis’s Great Northern Railroad employees. Photos from the De Luxe Souvenir View Book of the 1916 carnival show both Louis and the Glacier Park members in coats that match in appearance to the one in the Goldstein. These coats share the same stripes, military-inspired detailing in cording along the sleeves and back panel, felted rosettes, and detachable hoods. Also common among Glacier Park and other marching club uniforms were layers of pinked felt at the shoulders, typically matching the unique stripe colors of each coat.
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Legend has it that in Saint Paul, King Boreas reigns supreme throughout winter. That is until January, when Vulcanus Rex, the god of Fire, storms Boreas’ ice palace and declares an end to winter. This legend is the premise of the Saint Paul Winter Carnival, held since 1886 to celebrate local businesses and prove that cold weather can be enjoyed. In 1916, Louis W. Hill, President of the Great Northern Railway and son of James J. Hill, revitalized the carnival after a 20year hiatus. Louis was determined to bring it back in grand style. He meticulously planned every detail, right down to the costumes worn by carnival royalty, marching clubs, and festival-goers. Costumes and uniforms have long been a part of the winter carnival, with special outfits for royalty and uniforms for the dozens of marching clubs representing local businesses. Reportedly, Louis ordered hundreds of Hudson’s Bay Company (HBC) point blankets in specific stripe color combinations. St. Paul businesses spent the weeks before the carnival turning these blankets into double-breasted coats, long jackets, and breeches for revelry goers.
C R E AT I V I T Y B R E A K !
A Carnival of Coats
After 1917, the Winter Carnival was paused due to the US entry into World War I. By the time the next carnival was held in 1937, the blanket coats were no longer available. Most had been sent to Finland in 1918 as part of war relief efforts. As a result, few remaining carnival blanket coats survive from this era, including the one held at the Goldstein.
Hudson’s Bay Blanket coat, 1916-1917. Gift of the William R. Woolsey Family.
goldstein.design.umn.edu
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Welcome New Staff to the Goldstein! Fadi Abuhaltam Fadi Abuhaltam, the New Dora Agee Waller Graphic Design Assistant, is a multidisciplinary designer and a graduate student in Graphic Design focusing on Human Computer Interaction, and minoring in Human Factors and Ergonomics. He is interested in researching novel ways to maximize interaction across established and emergent technologies. He develops the graphics used in GMD's online and offline marketing channels. "I feel very fortunate to be part of such a positive, dynamic team. I became swiftly up to speed through the collaborative working environment at GMD. I also developed an interest in apparel history, working closely with apparel curators and graduate students at the College of Design."
Ellie Kingsbury Ellie Kingsbury is a new hire as photographer, collaborating in Goldstein's digitization project. She has been a selfemployed commercial photographer since 1994, working with local, national, and international clients. Ellie is an artist member of Form + Content Gallery as well as Traffic Zone Center for Visual Arts, both located in downtown Minneapolis. She is excited to bring her years of experience in photography, digital post-production, and collections documentation to the team. "The Goldstein is a unique and important institution on a national level. I've had a love of design since I was in middle school, and appreciate how the Goldstein incorporates the practice as a whole, featuring costume, product, textiles, graphic design, and more. These items have historical relevance as well as aesthetics, and being a part of a team that shares them with the public will be a joy."
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GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN
Rebekah Njaa is the Museum Preparator for GMD’s collections digitization project. She is a graduate of the Textile Conservation and Restoration program at Istituto per l’Arte e il Restauro in Florence, Italy, and has over 30 years of experience working in museum conservation labs, exhibit preparation, and documentation. Her expertise in archival textile preparation, handling, storage, and display brought her to the Goldstein in 2010, when the museum’s digitization initiative was launched. In 2018, she left the Goldstein to work at the Minnesota Historical Society as Assistant Registrar. She is now happy to be back on “Team Digi”, helping to launch the second decade of collections digitization at the Goldstein and making the museum accessible to all. "I tell people that my job is a combination of Project Runway and Antiques Roadshow! I work with the museum’s Curator and Registrar to select objects for photography, then I take items from storage and get them ready for their photoshoot. That may mean preparing a gown from 1815 and dressing it on a modified body form, or it may also mean that I need to have a cart of ceramics ready for the photo studio. The Photographer and I work together to photo document each piece, and after the items are returned to storage the next round begins. The job of Museum Preparator is a never-ending cycle where each new piece is its own small adventure."
W E LC O M E N E W S TA F F TO T H E G O L D S T E I N !
Rebekah Njaa
Nton Ollor Nton Ollor is an Advancement Assistant for the College of Design. As a recent University of Minnesota Graduate, she looks forward to continuing her work with the University. She works with donor and scholarship information while providing administrative assistance to the Goldstein Museum of Design. “Hi! My name is Nton Ollor and I am the new Office Assistant for the Museum and I’m taking over Barbara’s position. I recently graduated from the University of Minnesota in Global Studies. I like to travel and dance and one hobby that I am getting into is flower arranging. Fun fact about me is that I also speak a bit of French.”
Betsy Mowry Voss Betsy Mowry Voss, M.A., is the new Operations Manager for Student Services at the College of Design. She comes from a background in community organizing and arts administration in the non-profit sector. Her history includes passions in youth work, housing justice, and using the arts as a tool for building community. Betsy will be supervising student employees and supporting Assistant Dean, Steve Yang, in the general administration of Student Services. “I’m honored to be working at such a highly acclaimed school as the College of Design. What appeals to me is the opportunity to help identify strategies for efficient operations in our offices, and to support students as they move through their years at the University. My hope is that students have the same remarkable and life-changing experiences that I did when I was in college.” goldstein.design.umn.edu
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Director's Note Each semester GMD shares hundreds of objects with classes across UMN’s campus. For example, this semester we’ve pulled textiles from storage that embody an amazing variety of techniques and expertise: Nigerian fold dyes, Uzbek ikat, Japanese shibori, Indonesian batik, and American screen printing. Seeing the “real McCoy” gives viewers a sense of scale, texture, and vibrancy that is difficult to replicate with standard photography. Additionally, seeing objects in a group offers an opportunity to discuss them in depth. Despite the potentially inspiring work sitting before them, students approach group discussion with reticence. It is difficult to articulate the visual world of everyday things with your peers. How do you begin to decode the commonality and ubiquity of design? This ongoing learning process reveals that inspiration is not passive, but rather something actively engaged with. GMD thanks all of you who support our mission to inspire, to inform, and to talk about design.
Jean McElvain, GMD Interim Director & Associate Curator
GMD Staff Fadi Abuhaltam
Eunice Haugen
Ellie Kingsbury
Garim Lee
Dora Agee Waller Graphic Design Assistant abuha022@umn.edu
Registrar & Exhibitions Coordinator hauge363@umn.edu
Photographer kings311@umn.edu
Lila Bath Communication Assistant lee02169@umn.edu
Barbara Lutz
Jean McElvain
Rebekah Njaa
Nton Ollor
Archivist lutzx106@umn.edu
Interim Director & Associate Curator jmcelvai@umn.edu
Museum Preparator njaax002@umn.edu
Advancement Assistant ollor006@umn.edu
Colleen Pokorny
Betsy Mowry Voss
Dora Agee Waller Collection Assistant pokor033@umn.edu
Student Services Operations Manager betsymv@umn.edu
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GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN
NEW AND RENEWING MEMBERS Barbara Anderson Louis Asher Shirley Barber William Bloedow Meredith Bloomquist Philip Boelter Ann Braaten Elizabeth Bye Catherine Cerny Jennifer J Clarke Kristina Clark Jeanne Corwin Sarah Cox Laura Daumann Janna DeLue Faye Duvall Mary Dworsky Patricia Falcone Karen Fandrey Miriam Fisher Louise Fritchie Gary Hanson Trude Harmon Barbara Heinemann Audrey Henningson Kent Hensley Ruth Hofmeister Virginia Homme Janet Johnson Thomas Kane (Sustainer) Marit Lee Kucera Mary Larson Marlene Lawson Lynda Martin
Jean McElvain (Sustainer) Linda Mona Carol Neumann Heather Olson (Sustainer) Karen Owen Tuzcu Kevin Pokorny Philip Rickey Julia Robinson Mark Schultz (Sustainer) Susan Sell Harlan Stoehr Gene Valek Susan Verrett Julia Wallace Claudia Wielgorecki
LIFE MEMBER Joanne B Eicher
GENERAL SUPPORT/ ANNUAL APPEAL Georgene Angrist Louis Asher Carol Austermann Meredith Bloomquist Ann Braaten Catherine Cerny Jeanne Corwin Sarah Cox Kareen Daby Kristine & Ronald Erickson Kim Faith Donald H & Marlene Hastings Audrey Henningson Thomas Hesselbrock Ann & Robert Jackson Carol Jackson Janet L & Gordon V Johnson Ellen Katz & Jay Werb
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Marit Lee Kucera Marlene Lawson Kate Maple & Bill Driver Kathleen Michaelson Jennifer Olivarez Ruth Reetz Lou Ann Restad (sustainer) Dawn Cook Ronningen & Michael Ronningen Susan Sell Julia Wallace
DONATIONS TO THE COLLECTION Laureen Berlin-Gibson Beth Bowman Mingjen Chin Sarah Cox Ruth and Doug Crane Caryl Crozier Candace Dow Kristine Erickson Smith Estate Rosemary Foley Tom Hesselbrock Mary Hilfiker Mary Jecklin Pat Joyelle Ellen J. Katz Sheila Leiter Tracy Lovness Judy McConnell Liv Norderhaug Joanna Pollara
DIGITIZATION FUND Beverly Bajus Susan Jacobsen Sandra Morris
IN MEMORY OF Richard W & Jean Illsley Clarke By Jennifer J Clarke
RUTH HANOLD CRANE COLLECTION FUND Ruth & Doug Crane
GRANTS AND MATCHING FUND Margaret A Cargill Foundation Employee Matching Fund
GMD ADVISORY BOARD 2021-2022 PRESIDENT Heather Olson Soladay Olson TREASURER Shawn Spott RBC Wealth Management BOARD MEMBERS Irving Briscoe Epsilon & BRIS.CO Monique D’Almeida Freeman Foundation Wendy Eisenberg Galleria Angela Gearhart Sleep Number Kelly Groehler Alice Riot LLC Kent Hensley Hensley Creative Colleen Pokorny UMN College of Design Frederica Simmons Mia Susan Wittine McDonald Remodeling
NOTE FROM THE INTERIM DIRECTOR | MEMBERS, DONORS AND SPONSORS
DONOR PAGE
All GMD programming is made possible in part by the voters of Minnesota through a Minnesota State Arts Board Operating Support Grant, thanks to legislative appropriation from the Arts and Cultural Heritage Fund and a grant from the National Endowment for the Arts. Funding for the collection photography project was made possible by a grant from the Institute of Museum and Library Services. The University of Minnesota is an equal opportunity educator and employer. Printed on recycled and recyclable paper with at least 10 percent post-consumer material. To request disability accommodations or to receive this publication/material in alternative formats please contact: Goldstein Museum of Design, 364 McNeal Hall,
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Support the Goldstein Digitization Project The Goldstein Digitization Project allows us to share GMD’s resources and deliver services during the pandemic. Please consider supporting this vital project to ensure widening access for students, faculty, researchers, and the public. To find more information or to donate, visit https://z.umn.edu/DigiFund.
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Current and Upcoming Exhibitions Totally Radical: Designing the 1980's December 4, 2021 – May 27, 2022
SPRING 2022
Low Fidelity Design: Making Techniques from the Minnesota Underground Music Scene
Goldstein Gallery, McNeal Hall
October 14, 2022 – Ferbruary 5, 2023
Plastic Rapt: A History of Designing Forever
John Carmody: A Retrospective
June 17, 2022 – September 25, 2022
September 1, 2022 – December 1, 2022
Goldstein Gallery, McNeal Hall
HGA Gallery, Rapson Hall
Goldstein Gallery, McNeal Hall
GOLDSTEIN MUSEUM OF DESIGN