The Shiny Guide to Buying Motorcycles by Andrew

The Shiny Guide to Buying Motorcycles Buying New If you have the money to buy your bikes new, then I'd recommend you do so. New motorcycles come with a manufacturer’s warranty, are shiny and clean, haven’t been messed with by anybody, and are unlikely to need any significant work in the first three years. When buying new, you have the ability to test ride the bikes before buying, while a private owner is unlikely to let you test ride his bike unless you leave him a full cash deposit. Take advantage of this facility by doing your research, draw yourself a shortlist and test ride all of the bikes you’re considering purchasing. Large franchised dealerships representing multiple manufacturers usually have a test ride policy, and as long as you meet the minimum age and experience requirements, they will let you test ride any bike, within reason and with a sufficiently large insurance deposit. Ask your dealer what their policy is, get to know them and if you like them, support them with your custom. If you've just passed your test, you may find your test ride options somewhat limited, but someone out there will want your business, so don't give up if you get a few cold shoulders when trying to book in test rides, persevere and you will get there. When buying a new bike, there’s almost always a little room for manoeuvre on the price, so if you don’t want to pay full list price, or sales are particularly slow, haggle. Use your discretion, speak to a number of dealers and see which one can give you the best deal. Play them off against each other, especially if they are offering older stock or pre-registered models. Make them work for your hard earned cash. If you keep an eye on the press and find out that sales of a particular bike are really slow, then use this to your advantage when buying. Supply vs. demand is the biggest factor in determining price.

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Finance (PCP/HP) If manufacturers are offering incentives like 0% finance deals, bear in mind the cost of this loan is typically met by the manufacturer to try to increase sales, so don’t expect them to give you a discount on the list price as well as interest free finance (but fair play if you manage to negotiate it). PCP stands for Personal Contract Plan. This is a finance deal where instead of borrowing the total sum to buy a motorcycle, the payment plan is staggered to make it more affordable. With a PCP, you don't finance the whole cost, only the 'depreciation' of the motorcycle over the period. This does mean that you don’t own the bike until the final payment, you are just leasing it. At the end of the term, you have a final lump sum payment to pay to take ownership of the bike, or you can hand the keys back and walk away (as long as it is in good condition and mileage is within limits agreed). You would be crazy to hand it back because the guaranteed future value (at final payment time) is typically much lower than the bike's market value. Even if you didn't want it anymore, you could put the final payment on your credit card, sell the bike or trade it in, and still be left with a surplus amount. It is worth pointing out that a bike on PCP remains the property of the financier until your final payment, and if you default on the payments, they will take it back. It's a hire purchase agreement in a slightly cheaper suit. This staggered payment system has come from car finance packages, and the final 'balloon payment' as it is known is there to make your monthly payments even more affordable. At the end of the term, you can pay off the remainder in cash, or finance it by means of a personal loan.

Negotiating When buying a motorcycle, many people will find it easier to negotiate over the phone than in person. For starters it is harder for the salesman to read your body language and effectively work you. Putting down the telephone is easier than walking away from a salesman who knows what he is doing.

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Remember that it is in your interest to support your local bike dealer if you want to make use of his workshop and parts department. He won’t do a deal with you if it loses him money, so by all means make him work for your hard earned cash, but I don’t think it’s a bad idea to support your local bike dealer. If he's unwilling to budge on the price of the bike, one potential negotiating point is on accessories or workshop costs. For example, he might not be able to go any lower on the bike’s basic price, but he could throw in a half price lock or a helmet, or a couple of free oil and filter changes. A number of motorcycles, (large European V-twins, for example) when new, require an expensive first service at 600 -900 miles when the valve clearances are checked, mineral oil is changed etc. Negotiate it into the price when buying new. The last thing you want to do is fork out another £450 three months after paying full whack for a brand new bike. If you go down the route of buying new, you must also be aware that the warranty stands only if you have the machine serviced to the schedule. This usually means you’ll be paying quite a bit in servicing fees to keep the warranty intact. If you’re the sort of person who likes to do his own servicing, you can either buy a bike that’s a couple of years old, and therefore just outside of warranty, or you can buy a new bike and pay for the servicing in the first couple of years. It can give you peace of mind, especially if you use it as your daily ride.

Buying Second Hand For those of us who can’t or don’t want to pay for a new motorcycle, there’s the used bike market. The subject of buying second hand motorcycles is so vast that could fill several volumes alone. To the untrained eye, buying second hand can seem a bit of a minefield. There are many reasons people sell motorbikes privately; lack of use; a need for cash; raising cash to buy a newer model; or there may be something materially wrong with them that the owner no longer wants to deal with on the grounds of cost or convenience.

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If they sell to a dealer and their bike is a mess, the owner won't get much in exchange. Selling to a member of the public is much easier, hence the moniker “buyer beware!”. There is no excuse for buying a bike in poor condition. If you can't afford to buy a decent example of the bike you want, look at a different bike or be prepared to haggle hard. Many motorcycles have an easy life, and are mollycoddled by their owners who want to preserve their value, so there are always plenty of good condition, low mileage examples out there. Your job as a second hand bike buyer is to be very clear about which bike you’re looking for, and to sniff out the machine that matches. The good news is they’re not difficult to spot, and if you manage to prevent yourself from falling in love with the first one you see, you can get yourself a good bike for a fair price. You can buy second hand bikes from a dealer, or you can buy them privately. Given the fact that motorcycle dealers make a living buying and selling used motorcycles, you can usually get a good deal from them as they want to turnover a decent amount of stock. Dealers also make more money selling second hand bikes than new ones (ever traded in a second hand bike? How much did you get for it?). If you haggle hard, you should be able to get a good price as well as leaving them a decent profit. You might think this is your one and only chance to buy this bike. But I can tell you now; it is just never the case. Buy in haste, or in a heightened state of emotionality, and there is a very high chance that you will repent at your leisure. A lot of men go into an altered state of mind when buying cars and motorbikes. The section of their brain that deals with logic becomes detached from logical thought, and the reptilian brain takes over. They start to behave irrationally. I’m sure this is a similar mental state to falling in love. They will usually have been researching what they want, reading, assessing strengths and weaknesses, so when they turn up to view a bike, there is usually a significant amount of momentum already in place. They will certainly have pictured themselves owning and riding the bike; in essence they’ve bought into the dream.

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A keen-eyed seller will spot an enamored buyer a mile-off. The ‘loved-up’ buyer praises the bike, appearing overly keen almost as if he’s giving the seller the benefit of the doubt; he has, in a sense, fallen in love with the bike, and in his infatuation, will conveniently overlook the red flags which would otherwise be clearly visible to a normal, conscious human being. If you fail to ask the right questions, or you ignore any bad vibes you get from the seller, you’re asking for trouble. If a private individual sells you a duff bike, you don’t have any recourse. Buy a bike from a professional motor trader however, and he has a duty to sell you a roadworthy, serviceable bike, or at least point out if it is not in great condition. A dealer also has his reputation to maintain. Do you remember the first time you fell in love? That person standing in front of you looked faultless. They could do no wrong. They appeared perfect to you in every way. Until, that is, you started to get to know them. As you did, you started to see them differently, you started to recognise all of their faults. Your initial honeymoon period with your new motorcycle will be over just as quickly, so before the ink has dried on the ownership papers, make sure you know what you’re getting yourself in for. Remember, if you buy a real stinker, it will become your problem to deal with, to fix or pass on to some other mug. Buy a money pit and you'll wish you hadn't. Ask me how I know.

Research Before you even pick up the phone, or lift your mouse to search for bikes online, do yourself some research. All bikes have an Achilles heel, and the internet is full of forums of helpful people willing to give you free advice to help you identify potential issues with the bike you're interested in owning, so you will know what to look for when it comes to tracking down a good example. Always buy as modern and low mileage a bike as you can afford. The older a bike, the more problems it will have to sort out, and buying a cheap bike is always a false economy. There’s no such thing as a bargain.

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When buying, get yourself an HPI check (or similar vehicle history check) to check that the machine is not crashed or stolen, or has any outstanding finance, and when you view the bike, check the frame and engine number (if you don’t know where these are found, google it before you visit the bike). The vehicle check will not tell you if the buyer has crashed his bike on his own and patched it back together, but if it’s a repaired crashed bike, you should be able to spot it, and it will certainly feel odd to ride, especially if you try more than one example of the model in questions. The registration document should have the seller’s name & address printed on it. If it is different, ask some questions. Keep yourself impartial, and bring somebody with you who is not emotionally invested in the bike, ideally someone who knows what they are looking for. This person can play the ‘bad cop’, to counteract your ‘good cop’ stance, and bring some balance to the negotiations. Look for faults as well as benefits, and consider and vocalise how much money you’re going to have to spend putting things the way you want them. It’s nice to be optimistic in life, but the fact remains, unless this is a nearly new bike you will have to spend quite a bit of money getting it up to scratch. If the current owner doesn’t sell the bike to you, at some point he will have to do the work himself. Don’t be rude, and make sure you know what you‘re talking about, or you‘ll put his back up. On every bike I’ve sold, there have always been things I could have spent money on, but I knew that I wouldn’t recoup the money at sale time, so I didn’t bother. The seller is most likely thinking along the same lines. As the buyer, you are holding the cash, so you are the one standing in the position of greater power. The seller may have a bike, but the cash you are holding is more valuable to him; cash is liquid, and you as the holder of cash may choose to deal with him, or you may choose to take your business elsewhere. The seller wants to sell his bike; he wants to cash it in, so use this to your advantage when negotiating.

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If you’ve ever bought and sold bikes, you will understand that you always feel the bike is more valuable when you’re buying it, and less so when you’re selling it. Its desirability bears heavily on its perceived value. As the buyer, use this to your advantage. The seller is at the mercy of the buyers’ market because deep down, he knows that the value of his machine is only what someone is prepared to pay for it. Clever sellers try to use certain tricks to give themselves the upper hand. Take these offerings with a pinch of salt, and see them for what they are, part of the typical sales patter.

Some Favourite Tricks ·

Talking about how it’s only just gone on sale, even though actually it’s been advertised for weeks;

Speaking about how many other interested people have already enquired about the bike;

Making up offers from other members of the public or dealers to give the bike a false bottom line. Even mentioning a figure is an attempt to try to subconsciously plant an acceptable figure in your head. If he plays this game, do the same yourself to test the water.

Explaining how much he’s spent adorning the bike in chad accessories. If you don’t like them, it will cost you time and likely a significant amount of money to put them right, which should actually reduce the value of a tastelessly accessorised bike. For example, if he has decided to powder coat the swinging arm gold, when you eventually come to sell it, how many people are going to want to buy it off you?

Keep your cool. Stick to your budget, ignore the sales patter and stay focussed on what you want to achieve: getting yourself a good quality bike at a price that seems fair to you.

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In the cold hard light of day, money talks, and while he may appreciate his bike, waving several thousand pounds of cash in his face is a powerful motivator. If the seller is really playing hardball, and you sense that he’s going to drive a hard bargain, unless you really have an immaculate example in front of you, just walk away. There is a deal to be had, and if you’re playing with someone who doesn’t want to negotiate, take your money elsewhere. He wants what you have more than you want what he has, so use your position to your advantage. It’s worth saying this. There will always be other opportunities to buy similar or better bikes, so unless you feel really happy with the deal, you‘re likely to get buyer’s remorse and feel like you’ve paid too much (hint: you always do). You can be sure that there will be things wrong with the bike that the buyer has neglected to mention. You might think that these bikes are as rare as rocking horse manure, but mark my words: the day after buying it, a cheaper, better example will come on the market.

Mr. Tidy The main benefit in buying second hand from a private buyer is you get an opportunity to meet the seller to see what he’s like, and ask him questions about his bike. This is always a great reflection of how he’s cared for his machine (or not). Is his house a total pigsty? Ask to use his loo, and inspect how clean it is. Is it clean and tidy or does it resemble Scotland's worst toilet? If somebody lives like an absolute slob, how much care do you think they will have taken over their bike? As I said earlier there are plenty of treasured bikes out there, and you really want to be buying one of those. Is all of the paperwork handy? Does he keep service receipts or has he just got stamps in the book? Does he know the first thing about his bike when you quiz him about it? Does he know how to lube the chain and check the oil level? Is his bike properly clean, or does it just look clean? Have a pock around the business end to see how much crud is present. Do you get a good feeling talking to the seller? Do his stories add up, or does it seem like he’s trying to hide something?

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Is he a well presented clean and tidy guy with a carpeted garage and everything in its own designated place? Is he slightly anally retentive? Perfect! This is the kind of person you want to be buying a motorbike from. First of all, he is proud of the condition he has kept the bike, he is not the sort to pull the wool over your eyes, and you can bet his bike has been cleaned and polished far more than it has been ridden.

Control the Frame When you are entering any kind of sales environment, you need to think about who is controlling the frame. Controlling the frame is about laying down the foundation for how the following situation is going to unfold. There are two ways it can work, you can control the frame, or the other person can. Watch a good salesman in the flow; they are trying all of their tricks to get you to see them as friendly, to build rapport in as short a space as possible. They shake your hand, ask you what your name is, and get personal with you very rapidly. They start using language which supports their frame, putting words in your mouth, or at least putting the thoughts out there. When you buy a bike, you are automatically in the stronger position. You have the cash, so you have the power. In this situation, you are the one setting the tone of your encounter, you want to bring the seller into your frame, not be pulled into his. You want to have the attitude, “My perfect bike is out there at the right price for me, and if it is this particular bike, it will come to me easily, and the whole experience will be a smooth, relaxed one. If someone tries to get you into an emotional state, they are likely trying to manipulate you into making a decision under pressure. Don’t fall for it. For example, why a seller be interested in a “Quick Sale”, what’s the rush? Is there something dodgy going on? I’m always suspicious of any attempt of the seller to induce some kind of emotional imperative. It smacks of a hustle. There’s no such thing as a bargain. Equally, if someone is piling on the time pressure, saying; “You need to make a decision now, as I’ve another offer on the table”; if it feels to you like the other person is trying to pull you into their reality, reassert your position, and stand your ground. If they won’t play ball and come into your frame, decline their offer and go elsewhere. http://shiny-side-up.net © Valores Ltd 2016

There will be plenty more opportunities and many better bikes available to you as a buyer. If they won’t play ball with you, you don’t want to deal with them. If you go into their frame, they are in charge. When you control the frame, you are in charge. There aren’t many positions where you get to call the shots, but when you are buying is one of those situations. So remember to set the terms of your engagement and find people who want to deal with you on those terms. Be clear about what you want and who you are before you take any action. If you approach him openly and honestly about what you want, he will naturally feel obliged to behave in the same way. If he tightens up or seems reticent, or has flushed red cheeks, alarm bells should be ringing in your head. You can usually tell something is amiss in these instances, if you smell a rat, be courteous thank him for his time and walk away, you don’t own him anything, and just because you’ve travelled across half the country to see his bike, if it’s a lemon, walk away. If you’re dealing over the phone, ask the seller open questions like: “So tell me about the bike" and then pause, giving him space in which to talk. Pay close attention to his response. If something feels wrong, or if you sense you don’t like the way the person is dealing with what are perfectly reasonable questions, give it a miss. Only select a viewing which you feel is right for you and a seller who sounds like a decent person with no ulterior motives. WOULD YOU LIKE TO BUY A MOTORCYCLE FROM SOMEONE WHOSE ADVERT WAS TYPED OUT IN CAPITAL LETTERS? I’d rather not, but it’s up to you who you deal with. Treat sellers like prospective dates. If you don’t like the look or the sound of it, don’t go, and I promise you’ll significantly increase your chances of buying a solid bike. If you buy a second hand bike from a dealer, they may charge a bit more than a private sale, but you will typically get some sort of warranty, for peace of mind. They should also check out the bike to make sure it is in roadworthy condition before selling it. If it's a real wreck, they won't buy it in the first place, as they will need to sell it on to someone else, or they will advertise it: 'sold as seen'.

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‘Buyer beware’ is the motto to keep in mind when buying privately, not always because the seller is dodgy, but often because the seller isn’t always aware of the condition of his bike. Get some basic advice on what to check, but as a minimum you should be looking for the following: ·

Mechanical and bodywork damage - scuffed fairing panels, scratches on the frame, swinging arm and forks etc. Is everything lined up, or does it look wonky?

Checking that the mileage of the machine matches the general wear and tear of foot pegs (including the foot peg sliders), throttle grip and key barrel. All bikes will pick up stone chips on their bodywork and forks, just make sure that the mileage and usage that the seller has told you matches the look of the bike. If it doesn’t add up, it’s probably been clocked, raced or crashed and repaired.

Check the chain and sprockets for wear, and the chain for general condition and lubrication.

Check the tyres for tread and see how far over the bike has been leaned. If the tyres fitted are race tyres with hardly any tread, it may have spent a fair amount of time on track.

If you get to ride the bike, check the brakes for a pulsing feel through the brake lever, which can indicate bent brake discs.

Check the suspension and the head bearings for wear; Lift up the front of the bike, and turn the bars side to side about the straight ahead position, feeling for a ‘notchiness’ in the middle. This means steering head bearings need replacement at £150

Check the exhaust - a new stainless exhaust to replace that rusty steel one will cost £300-400

Check the last two MOT's for 'advisory' notes, these will indicate what needs doing. If you ask the seller if any work needs doing, and he tells you no, and you find a list of advisories on the MOT, treat him with caution; he may be concealing something.

Check the temperature of the engine when you get there. It should be cold. Start the engine and check it starts first time. Listen for any strange noises, knocking and rattling. When warm, give the engine a good rev to check that it sounds OK and the throttle works fine.

Make a note of your observations, so you can compare it with the next bikes you look at.

As far as the suspension goes, any bike with a few miles on the clock will benefit from a suspension overhaul. Add up the money you need to spend to put it right, add 50% for stuff you’ve missed and knock this off what you would consider an acceptable price for the bike. Used bike prices can be found on the internet (www.wisebuyers.co.uk for the UK buyer). Explain your reasoning to the buyer, he’ll probably be aware of what you’ve pointed out, but it’s good to jog his memory. When you go and see a bike, you might get a feeling that that is just the way they are, whether the engine, brakes of the look of the thing. It really helps if you see more than one, so you can get a feel for what a good example looks like. Just because it’s a 15 year old bike, doesn’t mean it will be cream crackered. Some 15 years old bikes are nearly as good as new, and really well looked after, others are neglected, and it shows. The more examples you see, the more you’ll be able to spot a good one from a wreck. As a result, do not buy the first example of any bike you see. You will be excitable, and you will likely miss lots of things. Tell yourself to see at least 3 before even test riding one. I know it’s a pain, but this bike is an investment that you’ll keep for the next few years at least, and if you buy the first one you see, you won't know a good example from a bad one. When you do find a good example, express an interest to return for a test ride with the cash deposit.

Don’t rush into a sale. If this is your bike, it will wait for you. If it isn’t, let someone else buy it. There’s no rush here. Your perfect bike is out there at the perfect price for you. The whole process from meeting the seller to test riding the bike to handing over the cash should feel smooth, easy and natural. If it doesn’t, then it’s a sign that you’re trying to force it. If you buy a bike in a hurry, you will have plenty of time to regret your decision. If you find the one, never buy the bike on the day you test ride. Go home, and sleep on you purchasing decision. If you awake in the morning and still feel excited about buying it, then alright. As you come to, you will be extremely clear-minded, and you should know what to do; whether this one is a "Buy" or an "Avoid". Some private buyers seem to have an over-inflated idea of the value of their bikes. Just because they bought it, stored it in a garage and never used it, they seem to think that it is worth what they paid for it three years ago. It isn't. It’s worth what someone is willing to pay for it. So how much are you willing to give him to take this bike off his hands?