Gourmet Traveller May 2021 by gourmettravellerau

Food 84

104

Anna Jones shares comforting recipes in her latest cookbook, One: Pot, Pan, Planet.

FAMILY TIES Ho Jiak’s Junda Khoo creates a Malaysian family banquet that pays homage to his amah.

Green pepper and pistachio risotto.................. 106 Blackened corn salad with pickled chilli and herbs..................................... 107 Lemon, chickpea and green herb stew................. 109 Baked dhal with tamarind-glazed sweet potato....................... 109 Corn and cauliflower chowder................................ 110

Preserved radish omelette.....................................86 Chilli prawns..............................87 Vegetable laksa........................87 Braised soy pork belly............88 Steamed eggs...........................88 Hainanese chicken..................92 Mixed vegetable stir-fry..........92

ALL IN ONE

FRESHLY BAKED Golden and crisp, nothing says comfort quite like a freshly baked pie. Chicken and leek pithivier with black garlic and tarragon..................................96 Seafood and fennel pie..........97 Braised bitter greens and caramelised shallot pot pies...................................98 Rhubarb and berry Linzertorte.............................99 Kolokithopita (pumpkin pie)......................100 Beef rendang pie.................... 101 Miso caramel apple pie........ 102

112

FROM SYRIA, WITH LOVE In his book Sumac, Syrian-born chef Anas Atassi shares family recipes and cultural traditions. Labneh....................................... 114 Walnut baklava........................ 115 Lamb kebabs with khebzeh hamra................... 116 Mum’s famous beetroot salad....................................... 116

MAY The heritage issue

MAY 2021 ON THE COVER

Vegetable laksa (p87)

Features 58

KITCHEN WISDOM

Recipe Junda Khoo Photography Alicia Taylor Styling Vivien Walsh

magshop.com.au/GMT Details p80

PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR (HO JIAK) & PARKER BLAIN (BALLARAT). ILLUSTRATION JEANNEL CUNANAN.

Regulars 11 UPFRONT Editor’s letter, contributors and news. 24 A QUICK WORD Claudia Karvan. 27 FIVE OF A KIND Terrine. 28 THE KITCHEN GARDENER Feijoas. 30 COMMUNITY X KYLIE Clarence Slockee. 32 WINE COUNTRY Langhorne Creek, SA. 34 COCKTAIL HOUR French 75. 36 REVIEW Dining out. 43 FAST Simple, everyday meals. 55 ANATOMY OF A DISH Paella. 56 MASTERCLASS Steamed pudding. 120 THE ART OF TRAVEL Respectful rebellion. 130 CHECKING IN W Hotel, Melbourne. 146 STYLE Home, fashion and beauty. 154 OBJECTS OF DESIRE Cast-iron cookware.

From perfect roast potatoes to the cleaning power of lime, nine chefs share the family secrets they swear by.

64 68 74

CULTURE CLUB A new wave of café culture is emerging across Australia, writes Lee Tran Lam.

HERITAGE TRUST Old-world charm is on the menu at these heritagelisted digs, writes Grace MacKenzie.

FEELS LIKE HOME Alexandra Carlton chats to Australian chefs about the restaurants where they feel most at home.

Travel 122

CITY OF GOLD Michael Harden explores Ballarat, the gold-rush town making a name for itself on the art and culture scene.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY Gourmet Traveller acknowledges the Gadigal people of the Eora Nation as the traditional custodians of the place we now call Sydney, where this magazine is published. Gourmet Traveller also pays respects to Elders past and present. This issue of Gourmet Traveller is published by Are Media Pty Ltd (Are Media). Are Media may use and disclose your information in accordance with our Privacy Policy, including to provide you with your requested products or services and to keep you informed of other Are publications, products, services and events. Our Privacy Policy is located at aremedia.com.au/privacy/. It also sets out how you can access or correct your personal information and lodge a complaint. Are Media may disclose your personal information offshore to its owners, joint venture partners, service providers and agents located throughout the world, including in New Zealand, USA, the Philippines and the European Union. In addition, this issue may contain Reader Offers, being offers, competitions or surveys. Reader Offers may require you to provide personal information to enter or to take part. Personal information collected for Reader Offers may be disclosed by us to service providers assisting Are Media in the conduct of the Reader Offer and to other organisations providing special prizes or offers that are part of the Reader Offer. An opt-out choice is provided with a Reader Offer. Unless you exercise that opt-out choice, personal information collected for Reader Offers may also be disclosed by us to other organisations for use by them to inform you about other products, services or events or to give to other organisations that may use this information for this purpose. If you require further information, please contact Are’s Privacy Officer either by email at privacyofficer@aremedia.com.au or mail to Privacy Officer, Are Media Pty Ltd, 54 Park St, Sydney, NSW 2000.

132 138

COAST TO COAST Karlie Verkerk climbs aboard the Indian Pacific for the iconic transcontinental train journey.

THE LAND OF LAKSA Ismat Awan explores how Darwin became Australia’s home of laksa – plus where to find the best bowls.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Editor Joanna Hunkin Creative Director Hannah Blackmore Deputy Editor Karlie Verkerk

Food Group Food Director Sophia Young Senior Food Editor Dominic Smith

Art Art Director Laura Jacobs Group Designers Jeannel Cunanan & Kelsie Walker

Words Digital Editor Yvonne C Lam Writer Jordan Kretchmer Writer & Editorial Coordinator Georgie Meredith

Contributors Ismat Awan, Sarah Bristow, Alexandra Carlton, Michael Harden, Anna Hart, Kylie Kwong, Lee Tran Lam, Grace MacKenzie, Samantha Payne, Simon Rickard, Tory Shepherd, Hannah-Rose Yee

Advertising Group Commercial Brand Manager Advertising Production Manager Brand Executive Senior Events Manager Director of Sales (NSW) Director of Sales (Vic, SA, WA) Victoria Head of Direct Sales Queensland Head of Sales Creative Director Production Controller Advertising Production Coordinator

Rhyl Heavener (02) 8114 9420 Kate Orsborn (02) 9282 8364 Mikayla Skarzynski (02) 9282 8142 Cate Gazal (02) 8116 9342 Karen Holmes (02) 9282 8733 Jaclyn Clements (03) 9823 6341 Will Jamison (03) 9823 6301 Judy Taylor (07) 3101 6636 Clare Catt (02) 8116 9341 Sally Jefferys (02) 9282 8321 Dominic Roy (02) 9282 8691

Marketing, Research & Circulation Marketing Director Senior Marketing Manager Brand Manager Circulation Manager Senior Research Analyst General Manager Subscriptions Senior Subscriptions Campaign Manager Subscriptions Campaign Manager Syndication Content Sales Manager Syndication inquiries

Louise Cankett Jillian Hogan Sarah Webster Dariya Kaing Ania Falenciak Sean McLintock Ellie Xuereb Jesvin Vincent Tanuja Singh syndication@aremedia.com.au

Are Media Chief Executive Officer Executive General Manager Group Publisher Director of Sales General Manager, Brands & Commercial Solutions Business Manager

Brendon Hill Sarah-Belle Murphy Nicole Byers Andrew Cook Jane Waterhouse Georgina Bromfield

Editorial office GPO Box 4088, Sydney, NSW 2001, Australia phone +61 2 9282 8758 email askgourmet@aremedia.com.au website gourmettraveller.com.au Instagram @gourmettraveller Published by Are Media Pty Limited. ABN 18 053 273 546. 54-58 Park St, Sydney, NSW, 2000, (02) 9282 8000. The trade mark Gourmet Traveller is the property of Are Media Pty Limited and is used under licence. ©2020 All rights reserved. Printed by Ovato, 8 Priddle St, Warwick Farm, NSW, 2170. National distribution by Gordon and Gotch Australia Pty Ltd. 1300 650 666. Gourmet Traveller cannot accept unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. If such materials are sent to the magazine, they will not be returned. Price in Australia, $9.99; in New Zealand, NZ$10.99; digital edition, $3.99. Subscription rates: 1 year (12 issues) $74.99 via automatic renewal; 1 year (12 issues) $79.99 via credit card or cheque; NZ (airspeed) 1 year, $120; overseas (airspeed) 1 year, $180; digital edition monthly, $2.99; 6 months, $9.99; 1 year, $19.99. Vol 20 No 5 ISSN 1034-9006

Subscriptions Gourmet Traveller, Reply Paid 5252, Sydney, NSW 2001, Australia, phone 136 116, email magshop@magshop.com.au

Dishes and destinations The Gourmet Traveller team share where they’ve been and what they’re eating.

Fortitude Valley, Brisbane A quick weekend visit to the River City was just enough to whet my appetite and leave me plotting a return visit. Fortitude Valley’s James Street serves up Palm Springs vibes and some of the best eats in town, from Hellenika to sAme sAme. Book ahead and arrive hungry. Joanna Hunkin, editor

Fish Shop At this slick new seafood shop you can mop up butter, chilli and garlic with hunks of Iggy’s bread, in between bites of well-seasoned squid. Or pick up some grilled snapper with salsa verde and salad and head to Bondi’s grassy knoll to kick back and enjoy an autumnal sunset with beach views. 87 Glenayr Ave, Bondi Beach, NSW. Jordan Kretchmer, writer

Adelaide Central Market A trip to Adelaide isn’t complete without a whistle-stop tour of the Central Market. I stick to the same itinerary every time: after grabbing a coffee from Big Table, I sample fromage at Say Cheese then stuff my carry-on with garlic mettwurst (German sausage) and gummy bears from The Old Lolly Shop. It’s a wonderland for gourmands. Karlie Verkerk, deputy editor

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

The Sambal Co-owner Nessiana Pamudji says this is the soto ayam of her hometown, Semarang in Central Java: a fragrant chicken broth with ginger, lemongrass and turmeric; bean sprouts and crisp red shallots for crunch, plus a tumble of vermicelli. A squeeze of lemon is a must. 432 Kent St, Sydney, NSW Yvonne C Lam, digital editor

PHOTOGRAPHY KITTI GOULD (FISH SHOP)

Attica Summer Camp Ben Shewry’s Summer Camp is worth every second of the drive from Melbourne to get there. The open dining room looks over lush bushland and sloping vineyards – the perfect spot to enjoy bright, blistered tomatoes served in a fiery XO sauce of abalone and basil. Georgie Meredith, writer and editorial coordinator

L E AV E NO DREAM UNTURNED

Setting out to make the world’s best wine was quite a dream. The biggest, in fact. Each day that dream still drives us. And, sometimes it drives us mad. But with every vine, grape, barrel and bottle we inch closer. We might die trying, but we won’t die wondering. And along the way we’ll be sure to make some pretty amazing wine.

Editor’s letter

SUBSCRIBE NOW

Editor’s letter

magshop.com.au/gmt Details p80

I’m often a little stumped when people ask about my heritage. It’s not something I have any deep connection to. In my lifetime alone, my family has lived everywhere from Germany and Scotland to Hong Kong and New Zealand. My extended family stretches the globe from Vancouver to Melbourne. Technically, we are British – yet few of us identify as such. The closest I get to embracing my British heritage is enjoying the occasional Sunday at the pub. So I am especially grateful to those who are happy to share their stories and heritage, making my world a brighter, bolder, and frequently more delicious place. In this issue, we asked chef Junda Khoo to share his Malaysian heritage with us and create a family banquet inspired by his amah’s original recipes. Khoo’s amah – his grandmother – taught him to cook as a child, and continued to mentor him until she passed. We also explore the fresh wave of café culture emerging as a new generation of chefs and owners fuse their diverse cultural heritage with Australia’s love of brunch. And we share some of the restaurants and eateries that possess the rare and magic ability to create a taste of home – no matter where you’re from.

WHERE

Camilla and Marc Stay snug and support an excellent cause with Camilla and Marc’s new range of limited edition t-shirts and hoodies. 100 per cent of sale proceeds will go to the Ovarian Cancer Research Group. camillaandmarc.com

INSPIRA

Rolex Tudor 2021 Rolex has released its new Tudor collection for 2021, including the classic 1926, now available with a pure white dial and soft leather strap. Understated and elegant, it’s the perfect gift for Mother’s Day. rolex.com

WHAT GT LOVES THIS MONTH

E BE

PROV

GIF

PHOTOGRAPHY ALANA LANDSBERRY (PORTRAIT) & ALICIA TAYLOR (HO JIAK).

RM OU E

E’V

Cobram Estate First Harvest Unlike wine, fresh is best when it comes to olive oil, which is why you should always buy Australian-pressed. First Harvest is the annual release of Cobram Estate’s best olives, cold pressed within four hours of picking and ready to serve, pronto. cobramestate.com.au

Fino Vino Fino Seppeltsfield has long been one of my favourite spots to eat in South Australia but now it has competition: from its sister restaurant, Fino Vino in Adelaide’s CBD. The food is exceptional but the service may just be the best in Australia. Sharon Romeo, take a bow. JOANNA HUNKIN, EDITOR

EMAIL ASKGOURMET@AREMEDIA.COM.AU // FOLLOW @ GOURMETTRAVELLER // ONLINE GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Contributors

Ballarat, Vic

ANNA JONES

PARKER BLAIN

JUNDA KHOO

ISMAT AWAN

All in one, p104 As a guiding voice of modern vegetarian cooking, Anna Jones’ latest book One: Pot, Pan, Planet celebrates plant-based cooking, and the positive effects it can have on our bodies and the world we live in. “While food and cooking, for me, are absolutely about the joy and the connection and beauty of sharing a meal, I feel now it’s time to stress the changes we need to make,” says Jones.

City of gold, p122 Food and lifestyle photographer Parker Blain seeks to portray human connection through his raw and candid snaps. For this issue, Blain captured the historic town of Ballarat, including its ornate buildings, up-and-coming chefs and friendly bar owners. “Shooting here transported me to certain parts of Europe,” says Blain. “Meeting all the lovely locals was a real highlight of the trip, too.”

Family ties, p84 Trading a career in investment banking for cooking was a smart move for Junda Khoo, who’s Sydney-based Malaysian restaurants Ho Jiak continue to go from strength to strength. For this issue, he shares recipes inspired by his family, and that reflect his heritage and Malaysia’s diverse make-up. “My grandparents came from Fujian in China, and ‘ho jiak’ just means delicious or good eating,” says Khoo.

The land of laksa, p138 Born in Darwin and hailing from a family steeped in the hospitality industry, Ismat Awan has always had a fascination for food and culture. Awan graduated from Le Cordon Bleu Sydney and Switzerland’s Ecole hôtelière de Lausanne, but her birthplace holds a special place in her heart. “I was raised on Darwin laksa, so to be able to showcase the city’s food and people is a great privilege,” says Awan.

writer and cook

122

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

photographer

chef and restaurateur

writer and recipe tester

PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN (BALLARAT), MATT RUSSELL (ANNA JONES) & ALICIA TAYLOR (JUNDA KHOO).

Preserve masterfully. Cook precisely. Live deliciously. Savour the ingredients that stay fresher longer with Sub-Zero, the food and wine preservation specialist, the meals that are cooked to masterful precision with Wolf, the cooking specialist, and a kitchen appointed with elegantly crafted appliances.

Refrigeration. Cooking. subzero-wolf.com.au

SHOWROOMS: MELBOURNE, Bank House. 11-19 Bank Place, Melbourne. SYDNEY, Foveaux House. 63 Foveaux Street, Surry Hills.

Cairns & Great Barrier Reef. The story begins here. Rediscover adventure. Rediscover nature at its wildest in indulgent luxury under tropical skies where balmy days dissolve into sultry nights under a mantle of stars. From the palm-fringed beaches of the Coral Sea to underwater paradise on the Great Barrier Reef; the crystal-clear creeks of the Daintree Rainforest and remote outback cattle stations to 20,000-year-old rock art galleries which tell the stories of the land and its people. This is Tropical North Queensland where rare treasures await. Call 1300 851 800, contact your travel agent or visit www.abercrombiekent.com.au

Hands-on Conservation in the Great Barrier Reef

Far Northern Exploration

Outback & Reef Adventure

Embrace a rare opportunity to explore the extraordinary and remote northern Great Barrier Reef on a luxury motor yacht, joining scientific researchers in the Great Reef Census on daily diving and snorkelling adventures.

On a self-drive adventure from Port Douglas to Cooktown, delve into the tropical delights and cultural heritage of the far north on snorkelling expeditions, rainforest adventures, beach basking and a traditional indigenous ceremony.

Contrast Queensland’s rich outback spirit with the pristine natural wonders of the Great Barrier Reef and the remote Cape York peninsula on an ultra-luxe adventure by air which reveals ancient landscapes, a working cattle station, the Torres Strait island pearling heritage and Lizard Island.

7 days from $ 8,350 p.p. twin share*

6 days from $ 3,900 p.p. twin share*

7 days from $12,500 p.p. twin share*

*Terms & Conditions apply. Please see website for details.

NEWS M AY

Edited by JORDAN KRETCHMER

Daughter In Law Adelaide, SA

PHOTOGRAPHY DUY DASH.

NEXT GEN Sparkly new drops, artisanal chocolate, Canberra’s new food market, plus the latest hotel and restaurant news.

T H E L AT E ST F R O M C H E F S A N D R E STAU R A N TS A R O U N D AU ST R A L I A

Clockwise from above: Hiramasa kingfish at Beckett’s; Alpha’s head chef James Roberts; jam and ricotta doughnuts at Small Talk.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

SYDNEY Glebe Point Road is in the midst of a mini revival spearheaded by the arrival of Beckett’s. Ex-Bayswater Brasserie chef Jeff Schroeter and playwright-director Wendy Beckett have joined forces to bring new life to the old Darling Mills space. The glamorous sandstone venue is home to a baby grand piano (which is played nightly) and a bar slinging a wine and cocktail list by Sasha Siljanovic (Nomad) and Charlie Ainsbury (This Must Be The Place). French bougie bistro is the calling card here, with plates of charcoal-roasted wagyu rump, pommes dauphinoise and field mushroom jus; vanilla lobster with butter-poached fennel, and sea urchin sauce; and escargots en cocotte. Across the road, Small Talk will be opening its second bolthole, which will bring bagels, focaccia and Reuben Hills coffee to the people of Glebe. Nearby in Redfern, former Cho Cho San and Cornersmith chef Jordan McKenzie and coffee maestro Tom Pye are behind Good Ways Deli. The menu nods to nostalgic country town bakeries and milk bars, and features sandwiches, Vegemite scrolls and lamingtons. In the CBD, Alpha has been stripped right back and reinvigorated. Incoming is a dedicated mezze bar, which will serve what executive chef Peter Conistis describes as “upbeat adaptations and old-school bar snacks that have a very Greek tweak”; like sausage rolls with house-made spicy Greek sausages, wrapped in tsoureki (Greek Easter bread). Conistis will be joined by head chef James Roberts in the restaurant’s refreshed kitchen, which is now home to a blue Josper charcoal oven and several large rotisseries. The star of the menu is a kleftiko-style slow-cooked lamb shoulder. It’s wrapped in clay and cooked in embers for 11 hours, before being cracked and served tableside. There will also be a sea urchin taramasalata served with seaweed pita and feta-brined spit-roast chicken.

PHOTOGRAPHY DAVID LI (BECKETT’S) & TRENT VAN DER JAGT FOR BUFFET DIGITAL (SMALL TALK).

R E S TA U R A N T N E W S

News

PHOTOGRAPHY JUDE COHEN (THE HUT) & DUY DASH (DAUGHTER IN LAW).

VICTORIA Yakimono will be making its debut later this year, a collaborative venture from restaurateur Chris Lucas and chef Martin Benn (ex-Sepia). Housed next to Society (the highly anticipated fine diner from the pair, plus Vicki Wild), Yakimono will focus on charcoal-grilled meats and vegetables, with head chef Daniel Wilson working from an open kitchen. Andrew McConnell is set to open a second Morning Market in Prahran. The corner store will offer Baker Bleu bread, fresh salads and sandwiches, pantry supplies, locally grown flowers and coffee by Single O. Handpicked Cellar Door is a new bar and retail space, which has opened in the 80 Collins precinct (also home to Farmer’s Daughters). The cellar door will retrace its Victorian roots, showcasing wine from the Mornington Peninsula, alongside other wineries from the Yarra Valley, Barossa Valley and Tasmania. Pop in for a deli lunch followed by a wine tasting, or stick around for a vinous workshop. Catalonian-born chef Josep Espuga will step into the position of culinary director at Pt Leo Estate in the Mornington Peninsula. Previously executive sous chef, he will now oversee Laura, Pt Leo Restaurant, and the Wine Terrace.

ADELAIDE Jessi Singh’s Daughter in Law has landed on Rundle Street, bringing bright and bold interiors and modern takes on Indian food. The menu, much like the original Melbourne location, is divided into street food-inspired snacks, curry pots, tandoor grill and sides. Another Melbourne import sees Justin James (ex-Vue de Monde) head up the Botanic Gardens Restaurant, with his aim to continue the restaurant’s focus on fresh produce.

BYRON BAY

Clockwise from above: bar seating at Yakimono; gol gappa at Daughter in Law; the vibrant dining room at Daughter in Law; oysters at The Hut.

Possum Creek may not be as well known as its Byron Bay and Bangalow neighbours, but the sleepy hinterland town is now on the map thanks to The Hut, a Mediterranean restaurant by Di Vino head chef Bruno Conti. The Southern Italian- and Greek-leaning destination restaurant has taken over the old O’Possum Creek Public School, retaining the building’s charm, while serving plates of sizzling saganaki, grilled octopus and crostini topped with anchovy and ricotta. Locals can keep their eyes out for collaborative monthly dinners with nearby beer brewers, cheesemakers and chefs. Sydney’s Mark + Vinny’s has opened a second outpost in the centre of Byron Bay, called MVP. The vegan-friendly pasta and spritz bar will see head chef Brett Luckens whip up bucatini carbonara, complete with a “vegan egg” made from local heirloom tomatoes; and a rich mushroom ragù with rigatoni.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

You’ve just celebrated your 12 year anniversary at Rockpool. How do you stay inspired? Because of who we are with Neil [Perry]’s legacy, and because of our name, we get the opportunity where producers send us new products and produce all the time. It feels really nice to know people have that much respect for Rockpool. How do you work new products and ideas into the menu? We’ve had a steak tartare on the menu for many many years, and we’ve recently reworked it. We’ve added 24-month aged Pyengana Cheddar from Tasmania to it. Sometimes I’d have that grated over a very rare steak, and I just thought, this would be fantastic in the steak tartare. We’re also getting these beautiful potatoes at the moment from a man named Wentworth Hill, who’s changing the course of Australian potato growing. We base our dishes around produce, so when we meet someone that makes something amazing we really want to heighten this fact. I have also taken some inspiration from Joost Bakker, who’s taught me about the nutritional value of freshly rolled oats. So we’re rolling oats to order now. We drop them into some chicken stock, squid ink and make a classic squid ink risotto but with oats instead, we then top it with chargrilled pork belly and chilli. What’s it like working with Neil Perry? Most mornings Neil and I have coffee. We meet, we chat, we talk about stuff for the menu. In the past we’d talk about financials, staff. Now we talk about food, where we’re eating and what we’re doing on the weekend. He’s become a real mentor. If I need advice, I’ve got one of the greatest mentors in the country, who I can draw on at any time. He’s fantastic and such a big part of this restaurant. Rockpool Bar & Grill, 66 Hunter St, Sydney, NSW. rockpoolbarandgrill.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO (COREY COSTELLOE).

Take your long lunch to the next level at White on Whitehaven – a boat-in and boat-out beach lunch in the Whitsundays. Think chilled Champagne, sashimi and oysters, with the world’s softest sand between your toes. tourismwhitsundays.com.au

with COREY COSTELLOE, ROCKPOOL BAR & GRILL

G B OT

O N T H E PA S S

Vinden Wines has released a sparkly new drop, and it’s one you may not have seen before. Alicante Bouschet is one of few grapes with red flesh, as well as skins – the result of a cross between the Grenache and Petit Bouschet varieties. Grown on the red, loamy clay of Vinden Estate in the Hunter Valley, it’s lively and crisp, with a light fizz elevating the fruit’s bright, berry-forward notes. The sparkling wine is bottled in a prestige swing-top champenois glass, making it a breeze to pop and reseal. “This is all about fun, beautiful, affordable everyday drinking, not just for special occasions,” says Angus Vinden, owner and winemaker at Vinden Estate. Sparkling Alicante Bouschet, $35 for 750ml, vindenwines.com.au

POPP

RED HOT

News

Sydney-based chef Davide Tonucci grew up in the seaside region of Le Marche in Italy and now passes on the traditions of his upbringing through hands-on pasta classes. He’s also released a series of Italian-made tools to help you perfect your at-home pasta making. Roll reginetti, cut farfalle and shape garganelli all by hand. Pasta Making Starter Kit, $35, thecoastalitalian.com

Show and tell As one of the SBS Channel’s biggest ever commissions, Adam Liaw had to really get his creative juices flowing when it came to dreaming up 200 episodes for his new food show, The Cook Up with Adam Liaw. So he decided to enlist the help of industry friends far and wide to ensure the show would pop. The Cook Up with Adam Liaw sees him joined by chefs, along with cookbook authors, food writers, butchers, stylists, bakers and a wide range of colourful food-loving personalities. SBS Food from Monday April 19 at 7pm and 10pm.

KIWI FLAVOURS

PHOTOGRAPHY LOIS VEGA (NONNA).

While Vivid typically transforms Sydney from May to June, this year the festival will be taking place a little later. You’ll have to wait until August for the 22-day program of lights, music and ideas to hit. vividsydney.com

Looking to celebrate the trans-Tasman travel bubble? New Zealand-born chef Analiese Gregory has teamed up with Clayton Wells to release a free digital cookbook, combining New Zealand produce and Australian flavours. nzte.govt.nz

Nonna knows best Waxy fruit may not be tasty, but fruit made from wax can certainly be aesthetic. Nonna’s Grocer is a new online shop selling food-inspired goods, kicking off with its first release of handmade fruit-bowl stars in candle form. From lemons to custard apples, the realistic hand-poured candles replicate the ephemeral nature of fruit while being longer lasting. From $24, nonnasgrocer.com G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

WILD SPIRIT

1 1

Good Boy Chocolate Former Attica pastry chef Alessandro Luppolo started making bean-to-bar chocolates back in 2019. Now, he makes his very own schmick bars inspired by the city of Melbourne and native Australian ingredients, which come packaged in recycled paper made with cocoa husks. goodboychocolate.square.site

Bahen & Co This Margaret River chocolatier was founded by former vignerons Jacqui and Josh Bahen. Using restored vintage chocolate-making machinery and ethically sourced cocoa beans, the pair’s 13 bar-strong range offers interesting flavour combinations, such as chilli and salt, and raspberry and rose. bahenchocolate.com

Hey Tiger This sweet social enterprise aims to make a positive impact within the cocoa farming industry by directly supporting ethical farmers. The names – Glitter Kitten, Fairy Wings, Hello Officer – are just as playful as the flavours, which feature chunks of pretzel, caramelised popcorn, peanut butter and rainbow sprinkles. heytiger.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

3 OUTSIDE THE BOX Fugly isn’t usually the nicest phrase to describe something, but in the context of Good & Fugly, it’s a kind and colourful description. The Sydney start-up rescues wonky-but-wonderful seasonal produce and conveniently delivers it directly to customers’ doors. A focus on the aesthetic appearance of produce by Australian supermarkets means about a quarter of produce never leaves the farm. The Good & Fugly team connects with growers directly to salvage this fruit and veg, supporting farmers and reducing food wastage in the process. The direct delivery makes it affordable and convenient for cooks too, with two sizes to choose from. Each box also comes with recipe suggestions for added inspiration. From $39, goodandfugly.com.au

PHOTOGRAPHY THIRU NAIDOO (GOOD BOY CHOCOLATE).

THREE OF THE BEST

A RT I SA N A L C H O C O L AT E

The heady scent of lantana (a weedy bush with tiny flowers) has served as inspiration for this atypical gin. A family-run operation transforms sugar cane juice from its biodynamic Queensland farm into wild-fermented rhum agricole, which is then distilled with juniper berries, lantana leaf and finger limes to produce a fragrant and unique gin. Lantana Gin, $77 for 500ml, lantanagin.com.au

News

Want more? Hop online to read more restaurant reviews and news, and browse recipe collections. gourmettraveller.com.au

IVING

IN 202

SWEET SENSATION When Australian photographer James Thompson couldn’t find a chilli honey like the one he tasted in New York, he decided to create his own. Joining forces with his brother-in-law, the pair started harvesting honey from their family’s beehives and infusing it with blitzed habanero chilli. The result? A sweet syrup that packs a solid punch, ideal for drizzling over cheese, pizza and even fresh fruit. quinbys.co

2 PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN (SEPTEMBER STUDIO).

CAPITAL GAINS As Australia’s fastest growing inland capital city, Canberra is continuing to go from strength to strength when it comes to its dining culture, and now it scores another win with the proposed Capital Food Market. Independent grocer Belconnen Fresh Food Markets has been operating since 1976, but will soon undergo a huge overhaul, aiming to become one of the great food halls of the world. Combining fresh food providores and a casual dining precinct, the Capital Food Market is set to be a retail shopping go-to for locals and a destination for interstate tourists, with completion earmarked for 2022. Food writer and critic Anthony Huckstep will helm the project, alongside Christopher Young, former general manager of Prahran Market in Melbourne. The market also aims to support small producers and artisans, including cheesemakers, bakers, pasta makers and charcuterie specialists. capitalfoodmarket.com.au

FLOWER POWER September Studio in Sydney’s Darlinghurst is the city’s newest creative space, and combines three beautiful things: flowers, clay and coffee. Stop by for a bunch of beautiful blooms, sip coffee from a handmade cup, or take part in a clay-throwing class. septemberstudio.com.au G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

T H E L AT E ST B O U T I Q U E A N D LU X U RY H OT E L S

HOTEL NEWS

Clockwise from left: the indoor pool at A by Adina Sydney; Next Hotel Melbourne’s La Madonna bar and dining room; pumpkin and macadamia pie at Jackalope’s Doot Doot Doot.

SYDNEY

VICTORIA

The newly opened A by Adina Sydney has launched in the centre of Sydney on Hunter Street. The premium apartment-style hotel has recruited respected local talent to lead the food and drink offerings, with executive chef Jane Strode, restaurateur Maurice Terzini, and the team behind Maybe Sammy all on board. While in Rushcutters Bay, the Vibe Hotel will host a pop-up series with Sam Young (ex-Lotus) and Michael Chiem (PS40). The Juicy Banana x PS40 feat. friends will see a selection of guest chefs create a luxe-but-affordable custom feast each Sunday in May. First up will be chef Graeme Hunt (ex-Chin Chin), followed by Grace Chen (ex-Poly) on Mother’s Day, Sunday May 9.

Melbourne CBD’s newest precinct 80 Collins (home to Handpicked Cellar Door and Farmer’s Daughters) has welcomed Next Hotel Melbourne to the fold. The mid-century modern interiors and business-meets-boutique vibe spreads across 24 floors, with a private entrance on Little Collins Street. Chefs Daniel Natoli and Adrian Li will fuse their respective Sicilian and Hong Kong heritages at La Madonna; the hotel will also have its own barrel ageing program for spirits, bringing an elevated edge to in-room cocktails. Back in the Mornington Peninsula, Jackalope has recruited chef Simon Tarlington to refresh the menu at its restaurant Doot Doot Doot.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

THE REBEL BETWEEN THE STREETS HAS ARRIVED

REVEAL TO REVEL AT W MELBOURNE Melbourne’s first W Hotel has arrived with its rebellious Flinders Lane address, 294 rooms and suites and multiple bars and restaurants at the ready to amp it up. wmelbourne.com +61 3 9113 8800

CLAUDIA KARVAN One of Australia’s most recognised actors on learning Spanish, living in Bali and her last meal on earth.

INTERVIEW HANNAH-ROSE YEE. PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL NADEL/DLMAU.

C QUI K W

D WIT H

Memories

I think I must have had a sixth sense that the world was going to get locked down, because I crammed a crazy amount of travel in the four years before Covid hit. I love travel – it forces you to be in the present. Everything is exciting: reading a bus route, finding a train station, or finding a good cup of tea. Everything is an adventure. There are quite a few places I want to go back to when I can. I did a film in Jordan and went across to Palestine and I really want to go back there. I love Mexico City, I reckon that’s my favourite city in the world. Galapagos Islands. Anywhere in South America. I’d like to go to Spain. I’ve been learning Spanish for the last three years and I’ve never been. I am thrilled to be Noni Hazlehurst’s daughter in June Again. She’s one of the hardest-working actors in Australia, but we had never worked together. We’d never even really met. It’s quite bizarre! So that was exciting. Our relationship [in the film] is interesting because June is quite domineering… she won’t allow her children to grow up. It wasn’t a motherdaughter relationship where we had to build up a lot of affection and be tactile. There was tension, which was good. Noni is very direct. She’s really forthright. She’s a veteran, and she doesn’t suffer fools. It was a good dynamic. We shot in and around Sydney, in the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, and a fantastic wallpaper factory in Annandale. Everything is local [in Sydney’s Redfern]. You can jump on a bike to get anywhere. I used to ride with my kids, drop them off to school, and then ride down to Woolloomooloo to my office and back. I’d think: Oh, life can be so simple. You can take so much of the stress out of life just by keeping things local. As for cafés, I love St Jude and Little Evie. RK San is a great Japanese restaurant that’s within walking distance for me. I love Zensation – a beautiful tea shop with lots of yummy dumplings. There’s a pizza place called La Panchina, which is Italian for “park bench”. It’s my son’s friend’s dad’s restaurant. They just have pizza and tiramisu – and it’s really authentic, great pizza.

My dad was a really good cook, and the way he taught me was fairly loosey-goosey… I’d follow him around and ask annoying questions.

I do like cooking at home... I’m a by-the-seat-of-my-pants cook. My dad was a really good cook, and the way he taught me was fairly loosey-goosey. I started to be serious about making meals when I began fantasising about leaving home and I realised that I would need to feed myself. Anytime we’d have family meals, I’d follow him around and ask annoying questions. He just had an instinct for it. He loves reading cookbooks – I remember he would fall asleep on a Sunday afternoon on the couch, reading Elizabeth David, or Charmaine Solomon, or Tony Bilson. He owned a nightclub with a restaurant attached, and every now and again he’d lose a chef and he would have to do all the cooking. He knew what he was doing. He made a mean pecan pie too! I love Bali. When I was eight or nine I lived there for a year with my family. I always associate it with that magical period of my childhood. Bali was a very different place then. I remember the first KFC opening up – because there was no fast food, no highways. Monkeys everywhere. It felt like a real adventure. We were always eating beautiful food at night markets. A lot of smoked fish in banana leaves and black sticky rice with coconut milk. Delicious. My last meal on earth would be pasta. Chilli-infused figs and ricotta with freshly made saffron pasta. I have to mention my favourite meal I have ever had in my entire life, that I dream about almost every morning, is roti with fish curry from a food stand by the side of the road in Malaysia. Hands down the best breakfast you could ever have. I think some of my favourite meals have been from night markets in Indonesia or Thailand or Bali. That atmosphere, and how spontaneous the food is – it’s the best. ● Claudia Karvan stars in June Again, which is in cinemas May 6.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Handmade culinary architecture. Designed and created for you in France, since 1908. www.lacornue.com.au www.e ands.com.au

Available at

Five of a kind

LP’S QUALITY MEATS

FARCE

Pork and chicken Luke Powell is known for his array of superior smallgoods, and his terrine is another jewel in his crown. Pork jowl and chicken liver bring a gamey intensity, while green peppercorns liven up the palate. Pair with a few dill pickles or cornichons to cut through the richness. $12 for 100gm, lpsqualitymeats.com

Duck and fig Is there a more luxurious pairing than duck and fig? We doubt it. Here, the free-range Milawa duck is rich and buttery, contrasting against sweet, bright pops of fig. Although coarsely blended, the consistency of this terrine remains moist and perfectly spreadable. $15 for 150gm, twoprovidores.com.au

Terrine Teamed with cornichons and some crusty baguette, a thick slice of terrine adds a touch of French elegance to any chacuterie platter.

MEATSMITH

FAV O UR

TEAM

VICTOR CHURCHILL Country terrine This hearty slice is exactly what a traditional French terrine should be: intense, fatty and nuanced. Golden shallots and parsley bring an aromatic hit, balancing the decadent combination of pork jowl and liver. Encased in a gelatinous layer of soy sauce, this isn’t one for the faint-hearted. $7.80 for 100gm, victorchurchill.com

WORDS AND MERCHANDISING GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING LAURA JACOBS.

Chicken and tarragon This Melbourne-made terrine is reminiscent of a comforting Sunday roast. Chunks of chicken and flecks of herbaceous tarragon are complemented by a fragrant hint of garlic, while a solid crack of black pepper adds piquant, smoky notes. $8.15 for 150gm, meatsmith.com.au

CITY LARDER Free-range pork and pistachio City Larder is the brainchild of Melbourne-based chef-turned-charcuterer Robbie Bell. Here, Bell marries home-grown pistachios and bursts of salty mushroom with local free-range pork shoulder. We’ll take it on a crusty piece of baguette with lashings of mustard, s’il vous plaît! $13.69 for 150gm, harrisfarm.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

KIT E TH

CHEN GARDE NE R

Feijoas Low maintenance and easy to grow, the feijoa makes a welcome addition to an early winter garden, writes SIMON RICKARD.

ot many fruits ripen in May and June. The late summer-andautumn bounty of deciduous fruits has finished, while the subtropical fruits of winter and spring have not yet come on. One plant that can still be carrying fruit at this time is the feijoa. The feijoa is a member of the myrtle family, which is prevalent in the southern hemisphere. In Australia it’s represented by eucalyptus, lilly pillies and bottlebrushes; in New Zealand by pōhutukawa and rātā; and in South America by guavas, including the feijoa. The feijoa is sometimes called the pineapple guava because of its resinous flavour. Their slightly odd taste and propensity to have a gritty texture have held them back from mainstream acceptance. It’s worth noting that the majority of familiar fruits have undergone significant domestication in order to make them palatable. Everything from apples and strawberries to bananas and pineapples have been selectively bred from over many generations to produce the large, colourful, sweet fruit we know today.

Grow your own

ILLUSTRATIONS ADOBE STOCK.

The feijoa is not as far along that journey as other fruits. If you have tried a feijoa before and didn’t like it, it is probably because the fruit came off a wild seedling plant. It is only in recent decades that breeders in California, New Zealand and Australia have undertaken the work of improving feijoas. New Zealand is currently at the forefront of activity, selecting for improved fruit size, a sweet and tangy flavour (rather than resinous) and a juicy, succulent texture (rather than dry and gritty). Kiwi selections often have distinctly Māori names, such as ‘Kākāpo’ and ‘Pounamu’. Older selections, such as Australian ‘Duffy’ and Californian ‘Nazametz’, are still in circulation and worth growing. The important thing is, unless you are growing your feijoa purely for its ornamental value, treat yourself to a named variety. It will be more expensive, but at least you know what you are getting.

Simon is a professional gardener, author and baroque bassoonist. @simon_rickard

Growing your own Feijoas have to be the most adaptable of all fruits. They will grow in hot or cold, dry or wet, inland or coastal areas, almost equally well. They seem to be just as happy in Canberra or Queenstown as they are in Brisbane or Whangarei. The feijoa bush has attractive oval, grey, evergreen foliage, making it a useful ornamental plant. Birds love to pollinate the red, pōhutukawalike flowers, and they will also nibble off the four fleshy petals, which are indeed delicious, and can be added to salads and summer drinks if you can get to them first. Luckily, birds are less enthusiastic about eating feijoa fruit, so it is easy to incorporate

feijoas into the broader garden, without having to net them as strictly as you might an apple or apricot tree. Left to its own devices, a feijoa plant will grow into a large shrub with foliage down to the ground. However, they are very amenable to being trained into a small tree, or clipping into a hedge or topiary, and still bear a crop, which appears at the base of the current-season’s growth. Unlike most fruits, feijoas require no special care, such as spraying or pruning, although you might need to control fruit fly if present in your area. Apart from that nemesis, feijoas look after themselves and can endure a surprising degree of neglect. The only matter that requires careful attention is pollination. Most varieties of feijoa require pollination by a second, different variety. However, a few, such as ‘Unique’, ‘Apollo’, ‘Coolidge’ and ‘Mammoth’, are reasonably self-fertile. So, if you only have the space or desire for one feijoa plant, seek these varieties out, but if you can plant two different varieties, so much the better. Feijoas might not be as sublime as a raspberry, or as delicious as a passionfruit, but I am always glad for an easy win from my tree, at a time of year when not much fresh fruit is on offer.

If you have ever tried a feijoa before and didn’t like it, it is probably because the fruit came off a wild seedling plant.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

CLARENCE SLOCKEE Kylie Kwong celebrates the individuals helping to grow a stronger community. This month, we meet horticulturist, Gardening Australia presenter and proud Bundjalung man Clarence Slockee.

I met Clarence Slockee over ten years ago through my friend, local elder Aunty Beryl Van-Oploo. At the time, I had just discovered Australian native bush foods and reached out to the local First Nations community to better understand and learn about their culinary traditions and culture. Clarence’s innate care for country is palpable. He continues to teach me so much, and now I have the great privilege of collaborating with him every day at South Eveleigh.

larence Slockee personifies what it means to have a “green thumb”. His love for the land was fostered from a young age, and has seen him flourish to become one of Australia’s most recognisable faces in the world of horticulture and gardening. As a child, when he wasn’t fishing or foraging for finger limes and bush tucker, Slockee was lending a hand on his family’s farm. “Most of my immediate family all grew up on the land,” says Slockee, who comes from the Bundjalung Nation of New South Wales’ north coast. “My uncles and aunties all worked on farms and my dad had a farm. So even during holidays or on the weekends we’d be helping by picking beans, peas, tomatoes or bananas. Whatever the season demanded we were in there doing it,” he says.

WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH (MAIN) & KYLIE KWONG (INTRO). PHOTOGRAPHY KITTI GOULD (PORTRAIT) & MARK POKORNY (KWONG).

“It’s a fairly unique workplace and we do pretty diverse work,” he says. The company is currently responsible for the maintenance of three special green spaces within Sydney’s South Eveleigh precinct. One of these Ten years presenting on ABC’s Gardening Australia is the 500-square-metre Australian native rooftop made him a household name, yet it’s his un-televised farm, which is home to more than 2000 plants, work that has been some of his most profound. including more than 60 edible, medicinal and Slockee’s decade-long tenure as Aboriginal culturally significant native plant species. There’s Education Officer at Sydney’s Royal Botanic plenty of fauna, too. Garden is one of the roles he holds most dear. “We’re trying to increase species numbers “It was such an amazing place to work. It’s the so that we can increase biodiversity, which in oldest scientific research institution in the country. turn encourages more fauna into the space,” But it’s a hotbed of horticulture and plant sciences,” says Slockee. “There’s lots of bird life and insects. he says. “Any particular, quite specialised area of The magpies up there, the rooftop is their pad.” plant science is catered for – Slockee has a deep whether it’s plant pathology, understanding and appreciation “Designers and soil science, ethnobotany or for his natural surroundings, and evolutionary ecology.” believes access to nature within architects are all Testament to his open-minded urban environments is critical. starting to realise nature, Slockee’s passions extend “If you have access to green the benefit and need space and beautiful things you beyond the gardening world. In his late 20s, Slockee moved can really connect with nature to reintroduce to Sydney to study dance at the and enjoy your surrounds. It’s biodiversity and National Aboriginal and Islander good for your wellbeing,” he says. green space.” Skills Development Association “Designers and architects (NAISDA). are all starting to realise the “It was just something I really benefit and need to reintroduce wanted to do,” he says. “I was always really interested biodiversity and green space,” adds Slockee. As land in music and it was a nice way to reconnect with the is developed, we lose ecology – it’s not just a matter broader Aboriginal and Torres Straight Islander of cutting down trees and clearing land to build culture. But when I left NAISDA I kind of segued houses. You are quite literally destroying ecosystems.” into teaching and did a full-circle back to Slockee’s mission now with Jiwah is to environmental education.” rejuvenate urban areas with green life, and Along the way, Slockee also managed to squeeze to educate the public while doing so.  in a business degree, graduating with a distinction jiwah.com.au from the University of Technology Sydney in 2017. These studies awakened Slockee’s entrepreneurial spirit, driving him to establish his own landscaping and design company, Jiwah, early last year. Jiwah employs young Aboriginal people while working to design, create and promote green spaces among urban landscapes. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Langhorne Creek Challenging perceptions, this wine region is out to make a new name for itself, writes SAMANTHA PAYNE.

W Samantha is a sommelier, writer and wine consultant. @sl_payne

hen wine lovers and drinkers start to get a little more involved in their wine journey, assumptions will inevitably occur; particularly ideas about a brand or style of wine, or specific regions. Often, those perceptions are the result of creative marketing – wineries, grape varietals and regions are packaged up with a story or theme that gives us, the consumer, something to wrap our minds around so that we connect, invest and ultimately want to purchase.

But what if you want to change your story and the preconceived notions tied to it? It’s an experiment that Langhorne Creek, a historic wine region 70km south of Adelaide, is undertaking with Project 5255. With the exception of a few wineries, such as Bleasdale and Lake Breeze, Langhorne Creek is best known as a grape growing region, with an illustrious 160-year history behind it. That history has led to the assumption that Langhorne Creek is focused on selling high-quality fruit to established wineries around Australia, rather than making wine.

PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING HANNAH BLACKMORE.

SO UT H AUST R A LI A

T US

LIA

Wine country

Adelaide

Kangaroo Island

The silver lining? When you’re overlooked, there’s a freedom to craft and create wines any way you choose. You can experiment with different varietal plantings and explore what your land is capable of. It allows you to ask the existential question: “What can I create when no one’s watching?” This premise is what most excited Adelaide Hills winemaker Charlotte Hardy to get involved with Langhorne Creek’s Project 5255. “It’s a whole bunch of people doing cool shit, not caring what everyone else is doing and working with this incredible fruit. Being able to step away from the spotlight of the Hills and have the ability to try something new is refreshing,” she says. Hardy had the opportunity to work with one of the region’s leaders, Rebecca Willson, and try her hand at making a fiano from Willson’s Bremerton Estate grapes. Willson says that the project’s main stipulation was that the winemakers had never worked in or used fruit from Langhorne Creek before – as a way of “opening their eyes to the region”. It became a mutual exchange of ideas and knowledge. Willson recalls: “Charlotte used our fiano and took the wine in a direction I’ve never seen done before – she opened my eyes to what the fruit is capable of.” Both Hardy and Willson agree that the project has been an incredible initiative to promote the region, becoming the foundation for a greater diversity of producers in the area. Willson sees it not as rewriting history but expanding upon the region’s legacy. “What we saw from the project is that smaller brands and people are exploring fruit from the region,” she says. “The new generations are expanding the developments in viticulture and growing better quality of fruit that’s adapting from what their parents did.” 

The Ngarrindjeri nation, in which Langhorne Creek sits, comprises many language-diverse clans or ‘Laklinyerar’. Early ethnographic work divided the Ngarrindjeri nation into 18 clans, with their own dialect, tract of land and ‘Ngaitye’ (totem). The vineyards featured in this piece are within Lake Alexandrina’s north side, making it part of the Korowalie clan whose Ngaitye was a whipsnake.

LANGHORN

E EEK

Lake Alexandrina

AT A

Langhorne Creek

Marion Bay

2019 Bremerton ‘Bâtonnage’ Chardonnay, $32 Made from a single vineyard selection of estate-grown fruit, this one is for classic chardonnay lovers. The wine adopts its name from the French term ‘bâtonnage’, referring to the winemaking process of stirring the yeast lees when the wine is in a barrel, giving the wine a plush mouthfeel that envelopes the senses in vanilla notes. bremerton.com.au 2020 Charlotte Dalton ‘Project 5255’ Fiano, $35 One of three wines created as part of Project 5255. Proclaimed by Dalton to ooze praline and honeysuckle notes, the palate on this wine is expressive and lush, with a texture that demands a cold bucket of prawns and hot chips as you watch the sun set over the ocean. charlottedaltonwines.com.au 2016 Bleasdale ‘Double Take’ Malbec, $79 If you’re ever going to try malbec from Australia, start with a wine made from the first vines planted in Langhorne Creek. Using grapes grown by the founder of Bleasdale, Frank Potts, the wine is made in minimal quantities, and only in exceptional years. The intensity of boysenberry fruit with hints of black olive tapenade will have you craving another glass. bleasdale.com.au Meechi Brewing Company Pale Ale, $90 (carton) There’s a common joke amongst winemakers that it takes a lot of beer to make great wine. So when two well-respected Langhorne Creek winemaking families came together to start a brewery, no one batted an eye. The name Meechi comes from the Aboriginal name for the River Bremer, which flows through Langhorne Creek. meechibrewing.com.au Willson ‘Samphire and Sage’ Gin, $90 Made in a classic London dry style, this gin is infused with locally foraged Lake Alexandrina samphire and sage. Crafted in tiny batches, the spirit was made in honour of Bec and Lucy Willson’s gin-loving father on his 70th birthday. Perfectly suited to a dirty Martini or a G&T with a fresh rosemary or sage garnish. bremerton.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Cocktail hour

The Australian 75

FR ENC H 75

S TO

E S PA R

T 34

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

For weekly cocktail inspiration, follow us on Instagram @gourmettraveller

TR Y

hard-hitting concoction of Champagne and gin, the French 75, or Soixante Quinze, is the classiest of cocktails, with herbal notes and a tart citrus twist. Harry MacElhone, the legendary Scottish-born bartender responsible for making Harry’s New York Bar in Paris a cultural phenomenon, is said to have created the drink in the 1920s. The first printed recipe can be found in his drinks bible, Harry’s ABC of Mixing Cocktails, where he calls for it to be served in a highball glass. Fuelled by booze, lemon and sugar, the effervescent elixir was said to bring such a kick that it was like being shelled by a Howitzer 75mm field gun, used by the French in World War I, hence its name. With appearances in silver screen classics, such as Casablanca and Jet Pilot, the sophisticated drink has earned pride of place on cocktail menus around the world and is just the ticket when Champagne alone will not suffice.

Arras

Printhie

Levantine Hill

This floral, spice-forward drop could almost be mistaken for a traditional French Champagne. Produced in Tasmania, it’s an Australian classic. Brut Elite NV, $60 houseofarras.com.au

A serious home-grown, single-vineyard sparkling produced in Orange, resulting in an elegant, complex flavour and rich, refined palate. Swift NV Cuvée, $40 printhiewines.com.au

A unique cool climate sparkling from Yarra Valley, hand-picked and wholebunch pressed. It’s fresh, delicate and the perfect addition to this chic cocktail. 2013 Blanc de Blanc, $90 levantinehill.com.au

WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING LAURA JACOBS.

While traditionalists call for Champagne, we like to give the cocktail an Aussie twist by using local sparkling wine. Combine 30ml gin, 20ml lemon juice and 10ml simple syrup in a cocktail shaker, then add ice and shake well. Strain into a chilled Champagne flute and top with sparkling wine. Garnish with a twist of lemon peel.

STELL AR ZO D I A C T U M B L E R S

Hand-crafted at the House of Waterford in Ireland, the remarkable Mastercraft Stellar collection features the constellations in magni�cent detail, celebrating humanities’ fascination with the stars and the pro�ciency, precision and perfection of elite Irish craftsmanship. This bespoke tumbler collection is intricately adorned with delicate cuts that depict all of the 12 di�erent zodiac constellations. Each tumbler is a vision of luxury, as the combinations of gold-�lled ball cuts and beautiful etch cuts on the tumblers’ exterior create a wonderous aesthetic.

Discover more at

WATERFORDCRYSTAL.COM.AU

REVIEW M AY

Dining out

This month, we head to Queensland for a new spin on an old favourite and find a Sri Lankan feast in the Mornington Peninsula.

Jung Sung, Sydney

Review

NEWCOM

From left: red snapper hwe; executive chef Insup Kim.

Sydney, NSW

A modern Korean fine-diner offers twists on traditional dishes with finesse, writes KARLIE VERKERK.

puddle of crustacean jus and aïoli spiked with gochujang – that wonderful spicy-salty fermented condiment made from chilli powder and glutinous rice. The dishes arrive at the table simultaneously, alongside a small vial of toasted sesame oil that we’re told to drizzle over the grains before mixing everything together. Eyes closed, the flavours and textures are bibimbap. Open them, and it’s a far more finessed, fine-dining affair. The reimagined bibimbap is a great example of executive chef Insup Kim’s creativity and skill, which comes from years working in Michelinstarred restaurants in New York. At Jung Sung, Kim’s goal is to offer a sophisticated take on the funky and fermented flavours Korean cuisine is best known for. It takes a certain amount of confidence to mess with tradition, of which he has plenty.

PHOTOGRAPHY FOODSHOT (JUNG SUNG).

f someone were to ask you out for a Korean meal, chances are that visions of paper-thin slices of grilled meat and a medley of chilli-flecked side dishes would spring to mind. Probably less so a Moreton Bay bug bibimbap, which is what makes Jung Sung so intriguing. At this new contemporary Korean restaurant atop the Old Rum Store in Chippendale’s humming Kensington Street precinct, the popular one-bowl Korean wonder, which is traditionally made with humble ingredients, such as rice, vegetables and egg, comes deconstructed. And if there was ever a reason to break the rules, this is it. In place of a hot stone bowl are two rustic vessels – one is meticulously layered with puffed buckwheat, quinoa and diced soy-marinated Moreton Bay bug meat, while the other cradles a butter-poached bug tail, a glossy

SEOUL REVIVAL

Take the kimchi for example, where brussels sprouts replace the usual combination of napa cabbage and radish. Or the fish of the day – hapuka in this case – which is delicately glazed in a mixture of sweet soy and anchovy with a hint of black garlic. Red snapper hwe – Korea’s answer to sashimi – is another high point in the six-course dégustation. It sees pearlescent slices of snapper paired with umami-rich white soy “crystals”, a herbaceous perilla extract, sweet cubes of rockmelon and karkalla – arguably, it’s a dish that leans more contemporary than Korean. The same CK LOO UI goes for the wagyu beef course with JUNG SUNG burnt eggplant Level 3, The Old Rum Store, 2-10 Kensington St, and jalapeño jus. Chippendale, Sydney Kim’s modern jungsung.com.au interpretation of CHEF Insup Kim classic Korean OPENING HOURS Tue-Sun 11.30am-3.30pm; flavours is refreshing 5.30pm-10.30pm and playful, however PRICE GUIDE $$$ I’d welcome a little more funk over BOOKINGS Recommended. finesse. Even still, VERDICT Jung Sung offers A modern take on something exciting Korean cuisine. in the way of Korean cuisine in Sydney. ● G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Review

Clockwise from left: Many Little’s bar area; head chef Gayan Pieris. Opposite: an assortment of dishes at Many Little.

IO Red Hill, Vic

HOT STUFF An exciting Sri Lankan-inspired bistro and bar spices things up in the Peninsula, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.

f you had to nominate a house style for Mornington Peninsula restaurants, it would be something like “European, with a fetish for locally grown ingredients”. Many Little, from the folk behind Polperro Winery, obviously received the local ingredients memo but has broken from the pack by centring Sri Lanka as its main culinary influence. It’s one of the most exciting places to eat on the Peninsula right now. Part of a shopping village in Red Hill South, Many Little has a dark-hued, pared-back fitout, heavy on the timber (floors, chairs, tables) with pale brick details and a smooth-flowing indooroutdoor layout that delivers bar and restaurant energy in equal amounts. Exemplary work from a well-versed floor and bar crew successfully manages the mix, too.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

It’s all in service to head chef Gayan Pieris’s two menus – a four-part tasting number and a single-page list of scintillating bar food, running the gamut from raw kingfish doused in green chutney and scattered with fat salmon roe to cuttlefish dusted in spiced flour, fried and served with a crunchy, rustic green papaya salad. A list of excellent cocktails (try the savoury-refreshing Thelma Plum, based on Autonomy’s Davo Plum Aperitivo) and a local-leaning list of beer and wine further explains why the bar draws a crowd. Sri Lankan-born Pieris has been working in Australia for 16 years, his CV listing five-star hotels and names like Cumulus Inc. What he puts on the plate is a delicious, handsome, modern amalgamation of his influences and experience.

PHOTOGRAPHY NINA RYAN PHOTOGRAPHY.

STINA

The tasting menu starts with a three-part snack that might include a “croquette” of peppery-sour chicken ambulthiyal-style curry served with hogsplum chutney, a wagyu beef naem-style sausage dabbed with soy caramel, and a little kokis (rice flour and coconut milk) tart shell filled with goat’s cheese and topped with tomatoes from Polperro’s organic garden, just up the road. A half marron, cooked over charcoal, is scattered with fried curry leaves and chilli, served with rich sambol and wet coconut rice. The main event, a generous, applauseworthy thali, comes laden with string and egg hoppers, roti, dhal and house-made condiments like eggplant pickles and watermelon salad. There are also two curries, your choice from a list of eight. Deft, elegant spicing is present in both the Sri Lankan chicken curry’s low hum of heat and in the rich and chunky pork and black pepper number. Dessert, a gorgeously textured Ceylon spiced tea and honeycomb semifreddo sandwiched in chocolate tuile, is an event in itself. Many Little is further argument for Mornington Peninsula’s “best regional dining in the country” reputation. Go see for yourself. ●

CK LOO K

MANY LITTLE 2-5/159 Shoreham Rd, Red Hill, Vic manylittle.com.au CHEF Gayan Pieris OPENING HOURS Sat-Sun 11.45am-3pm; Thurs-Sun 5pm-9pm PRICE $$ BOOKINGS Recommended; a week ahead. Walk-ins available at the bar. VERDICT Vibrant, exciting Sri Lankan-influenced food highlighting great local produce.

CLASS

From left: aged Great Ocean duck with oyster and rockmelon at Magill Estate; the elegant dining room.

Magill, SA

Magill Estate lives up to the hype with impressive dishes to match its wine and views, writes TORY SHEPHERD.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

a backdrop to that magnificent view. Full-length windows and the blissful quiet of the place give it a contemplative air. There’s a line at the top of the tasting menu that simply says “snacks”. What a marvellous understatement. A Smoky Bay oyster with tiny, edible, purple flowers and a burst of lime has the added bonus of tiny enoki mushroom heads, lightly pickled pearls scattered on the plate. A miniature crumpet is brushed with honey and loaded up with trout roe and smoked trout butter. A crackling chicken wing is followed by an amuse-bouche of chicken broth so bursting with flavour it evokes the clouds of steam in a phở restaurant. A King George whiting ceviche comes with fresh and roasted coconut and a quasi-Asian lime flavour. There’s a little green pop of peas, about

ery rarely does anything deserve the word “iconic”. But Penfolds Grange is one of those rarities – it’s even heritage-listed. So Magill Estate Restaurant, looking out over the shiraz vineyard, has to be spectacular to avoid being a disappointment. Phew. From the view down those geometric rows to the city – just 15 minutes away – to the final petits fours, it is. There are two ever-changing menus: seven courses for $220 or three for $150. Optional wine matching might be a good idea if you’re intimidated by the wine list, which runs to 30 pages. The restaurant has a solid, masculine feel that is offset by the remarkable lighting – festive globes dangling everywhere. The fascinating architectural quirks, though, are just

PERFECT MATCH

the size of a pinhead – because, of course, why would you have normal peas when you could have the added sweetness of peas from a snowpea? The menu flows by, thanks to seamless service from delightful staff. There’s abalone, duck and venison. A moment of theatre as a dry ice concoction – the ice made from fermented tomato – is spooned over lobster, the mist drifting briefly. Throughout, the sommelier makes smart suggestions and he obviously has a vast knowledge about the wines – but doesn’t overshare. You get the impression that, faced with serious wine aficionados, he could tell them every detail they needed to know, and many they didn’t. CK LOO UI After one of the delightful staff, Jade, MAGILL ESTATE has cleared the last 78 Penfold Rd, Magill, SA of the delicate magillestaterestaurant. desserts, she gives com this chilli-head a CHEF Scott Huggins take-home present. OPENING HOURS Wed-Sat 6.30pm-late; A guide to the state’s Sat-Sun noon-3pm best chilli products PRICE GUIDE $$$$ and a newfound BOOKINGS interest in chillies Recommended. grown in space. This VERDICT Just gets better with age. is a place of legends, from start to finish. ●

CK LO

O K

Review

OTTO BRISBANE River Quay, Sidon St, Qld ottoristorante.com.au CHEF Will Cowper

EFRE E R S H

OPENING HOURS Fri-Sun noon-3pm Wed-Sun 5.30pm-10pm

From left: spaghettini with Champagne lobster at Otto Brisbane; the view from the dining room.

Brisbane, Qld

ROO M WIT H A V I E W A new home for a familiar favourite proves a winning combination in Brisbane, writes SARAH BRISTOW.

PHOTOGRAPHY NIKKI TO.

ooner or later, so they say, everything old is new again. Like Otto Brisbane – the Sunshine State incarnation of a Sydney favourite that shimmied into the River City back in 2015. But February saw the suave Italian decamp its inner-city abode for the former headquarters of Stokehouse Q, a more recent victim of the Covid-19 pandemic. And while the Arkhefielddesigned space wasn’t dreamt up with Otto in mind, you’d never know it – there’s no better fit for the fine diner than waterfront River Quay, especially considering the original is perched on Woolloomooloo’s Finger Wharf. More tables and less kitchen space mark the major changes for the new eatery so far, though menu movements are promised to follow soon. For now, expect the same polished Italian favourites made from largely local ingredients, though this time shared

among a duo of eating spaces – the more formal Otto Ristorante, and Otto Osteria for when a spritz and snack combo come calling. “Unashamedly simple” is the game here, but they’re not referring to the simplicity you’d find on your average nonna’s table. This is the kind of simple Italian served on a starchy white tablecloth, refined in both look and flavour. Plump oysters arrive topped with salty salmon roe and crisp cucumber, alongside a mountainous portion of whipped Woodside goat’s curd, truffle honey and pane carasau. Fresh kingfish forms the crudo, which is sprinkled with zesty pops of finger lime and a subtle scattering of aromatic fennel and spices. Save room for the pasta, available as an entrée or main, giving you the chance to sample the full quartet of options if you so choose. But forced

BOOKINGS Highly recommended. VERDICT What’s old is new again thanks to a bold new abode.

to choose just one, the spaghettini is the standout. Even at a punchy $50 for an entrée and $70 for a main, it lives up to the hype, thanks to a rich concoction of Champagne lobster in a buttery lemon and wine sauce, topped with bottarga. The risotto sits heavy in comparison, though no less tasty. The tomato-led foray mingles chunks of pork sausage, creamy stracciatella and tendrils of cavolo nero. Mains consist of a series of proteins, including beef exclusively raised for Otto by Rangers Valley. It’s perfectly cooked and complemented by a mustard foam and veal sauce, which serve to boost its rich flavour. Sweets fail to make the same impression as the savoury side of the menu. A hefty curl of vanilla bean gelato, joined by espresso and the naughty (but genius) addition of Nocello liqueur forms the affogato. But the chocolate offering pales in comparison. Otto Brisbane continues to deliver from its bold new abode. And while the price point is high across the board (despite a lengthy wine list, bottles rarely dip below the $100 mark), the chance to relish polished Italian in one of Brisbane’s best waterfront locations is arguably priceless. ● G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Olio Olio by Barber Osgerby and Royal Doulton is a miscellaneous collection of functional designs in a considered colour palette. Mix and match pieces for an eclectic look.

Available at royaldoulton.com.au and in selected Myer and David Jones stores, nationally.

FAST M AY

Create simple, flavourful meals in less than 30 minutes with these everyday recipes.

VEGETARIAN

GLUTEN FREE

DAIRY FREE

Photography JAMES MOFFATT Styling STEVE PEARCE Recipes & food preparation JESSICA BROOK

Fast

ADD SOME GREENS Throw in a handful of cavolo nero or another leafy green at the end of cooking to accompany the steaks.

EDY .

PER

U . S

E IT I N DER

1 Preheat oven to 240˚C. Place potatoes on a large oven tray. Pour 125ml boiling water over the potatoes then cover tray tightly with foil. Place in the oven and bake until just tender (20 minutes). 2 Combine olive oil, garlic, anchovies, caperberries, mustard and curry powder in a small bowl, spoon over potatoes, then gently crush and toss to coat. Roast until potatoes are golden and crisp (10 minutes). 3 Meanwhile, heat a large frying pan over high heat. Season steaks with freshly ground black pepper. Add half the butter and 2 steaks to the pan; cook until browned (1-2 minutes), turn and cook until cooked to your liking (1 minute for medium). Add half the thyme to the pan in the last minute. Remove steaks and repeat with remaining butter and steaks. Serve steaks with pan juices, potatoes and mustard.

1 kg kipfler potatoes, scrubbed, halved 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 6 garlic cloves, sliced 8 anchovy fillets, coarsely chopped 80 gm caperberries 1 tsp each mustard and curry powder 100 gm unsalted butter, chopped 4 Scotch fillet minute steaks (about 200gm each) 12 thyme sprigs Dijon mustard, to serve

Minute steaks with Café de Paris potatoes SERVES 4

PRODUCE TIP Place leftover curry leaves in a snap-lock bag and freeze to keep for another day.

Saag with pumpkin dumplings SERVES 4 80 gm butter, chopped 1 onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tbsp grated ginger 2 tsp garam marsala 2 green chillies, thinly sliced 2 bunches English spinach (500gm), washed, trimmed and chopped 250 ml (1 cup) vegetable stock 500 gm store-bought pumpkin gnocchi 1 tsp yellow mustard seeds 3 sprigs fresh curry leaves Greek-style yoghurt, to serve

1 Melt half the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat, add onion, garlic, ginger, garam marsala and half the chilli; stir until softened (6-8 minutes). 2 Add spinach, season with salt to taste, and stir occasionally until wilted (2-4 minutes). Add stock, bring to a simmer, then remove from heat. Blend spinach mixture with a hand-held blender until smooth, set aside and keep warm. 3 Meanwhile, cook gnocchi in a large saucepan of boiling salted water until tender (3 minutes). Drain and refresh,

then pat dry. Melt remaining butter in a large non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Add gnocchi and remaining chilli, and gently pan-fry, turning occasionally, until gnocchi is golden (3-5 minutes). Add mustard seeds and curry leaves; cook until crisp (30 seconds). Serve saag, swirled with yoghurt and topped with gnocchi and crisp curry leaves. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

EDY .

U . S

E IT I N

PER

DER

SWAP IT OUT If you’re not a fan of mussels, you can substitute baby clams or pipis.

15-minute moules marinière SERVES 4

50 gm unsalted butter, chopped 2 golden shallots, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 330 ml dry apple cider 120 gm (½ cup) crème fraîche ¼ tsp saffron threads 1 small garlic clove, crushed 100 gm (⅓ cup) whole-egg mayonnaise 2 kg pot-ready mussels 6 slices grilled sourdough Tarragon sprigs, to serve

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 Heat butter in a saucepan over medium heat, add shallots and garlic; stir until softened (5 minutes). 2 Meanwhile, place saffron and crushed garlic in a small bowl. Add 1 tsp boiling water and leave saffron to soak for 1 minute. Stir in mayonnaise and season. 3 Add cider and crème fraîche to the pan. Increase heat to high and bring liquid to a simmer then cook until reduced by half (5 minutes). Add mussels, cover pan with a tight-fitting lid and cook, shaking pan occasionally, until mussels just open (3-5 minutes). Season to taste. Serve mussels with aïoli, grilled sourdough and scatter with tarragon.

Fast

Weeknight porchetta SERVES 4

2 pork tenderloins (about 450gm each) 1 tsp fennel seeds, lightly crushed 4 garlic cloves, crushed, plus one bulb, halved 80 gm (1 cup) parmesan, finely grated ¼ cup finely chopped sage, plus extra leaves to serve ¼ cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 tsp finely grated lemon rind, plus 1 lemon, sliced 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to brush 12 thin slices flat pancetta (300gm) 12 thin slices sourdough Salad, to serve 1 Preheat oven to 220˚C. Using a sharp knife, make a lengthways cut down the centre of each tenderloin leaving 2cm intact. Open out and pound between 2 sheets of baking paper to 2cm thick. 2 Combine fennel, garlic, parmesan, sage, parsley, lemon rind and oil together in a bowl. Season to taste and spread evenly over pork. Overlap the tenderloins by 2cm and roll to enclose. Wrap in overlapping pancetta slices and secure with string. 3 Place on an oven tray with halved garlic, bread and lemon slices, then drizzle with oil. Bake until pancetta is crisp and pork is just cooked through (25 minutes). Toss extra sage in oil and add to the pan, roast until sage is crisp (5 minutes). Rest porchetta for 5 minutes before slicing and serve with a simple salad. ➤

EDY .

PER

gm spaghettoni gm butter tbsp extra-virgin olive oil tsp pink peppercorns, crushed sprigs pickled green peppercorns tsp each coarsely cracked black pepper and white pepper 120 gm finely grated pecorino, plus extra to serve 1 Cook pasta in a large saucepan of boiling salted water until al dente (6-8 minutes). Drain, reserving 250ml (1 cup) pasta water.

DER

00 4 50 2 1 3 1

U . S

E IT I N

Mixed pepper pasta SERVES 4

M AK

2 Meanwhile, melt butter and oil in a large deep-sided frying pan over medium heat, add half the mixed peppercorns and stir until fragrant (30 seconds to 1 minute). Add reserved pasta water and bring to a simmer. 3 Add pasta and cheese to the pan and toss until cheese melts and forms a sauce (2-3 minutes). Season with salt and serve scattered with remaining peppercorns and extra cheese.

Fast

Mushroom mapo tofu SERVES 4

1 tbsp sesame oil 600 gm mixed mushrooms (shiitake, king brown, shimeji and oyster), coarsely chopped ½ tsp Sichuan peppercorns, crushed 200 gm (¾ cup) doubanjiang (see note) 250 ml (1 cup) Shaoxing wine 2 tsp cornflour 15 gm dried sliced shiitake (soaked in 1 cup boiling water) 600 gm silken tofu, cut into 3cm pieces 1 bunch garlic chives, coarsely chopped 1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds Shiso leaves, to serve

1 Heat oil in a deep-sided frying pan over medium heat. Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until golden (8-10 minutes). 2 Add Sichuan pepper, doubanjiang, Shaoxing, soaked shiitake and soaking water to the pan, bring to a simmer and cook until reduced slightly (3 minutes). Mix cornflour and 125ml water together in a small bowl then add to the pan; cook until thickened (1 minute). 3 Add tofu and gently stir to coat in sauce (2 minutes). Season to taste then stir through the garlic chives and divide among bowls. Top with sesame seeds and shiso leaves. Note Doubanjiang, a chilli broad bean paste, is available from Asian grocers. ➤

DRESS IT UP Add some Asian greens or snake beans for more texture and colour.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Warm hummus with cabbage and basturma SERVES 4

¼ red cabbage (450gm), shredded 160 gm (½ cup) cherry jam 60 ml (¼ cup) red wine vinegar 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 tsp finely grated lemon rind, plus 2 tbsp lemon juice 800 gm canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed 60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil 2 tbsp lemon juice 12 thin slices basturma 1 cup coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley 1 red onion, thinly sliced Grilled pita, to serve

SWAP IT OUT If basturma is not available, you can substitute prosciutto, bresaola or pancetta.

1 For cherry-braised cabbage, combine cabbage, cherry jam and vinegar in a saucepan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until cabbage is tender ans syrupy (15 minutes). Season to taste and keep warm. 2 Meanwhile, heat oil in a frying pan over medium heat, add garlic and lemon rind, and cook until fragrant (2 minutes). Add chickpeas and 125ml water, bring to a simmer and cook until heated through (4 minutes). Transfer to a blender and blitz until smooth, gradually adding olive oil and lemon juice, until combined. Season to taste and keep warm. 3 Heat a non-stick frying pan over high heat. Add basturma and cook, turning occasionally, until crisp (4 minutes). 4 Serve hummus topped with braised cabbage and basturma, with parsley and onion salad and pita on the side. Note Basturma is a Turkish air-dried cured beef. ●

We use meat from Devitt Wholesale Meats and fresh seafood from Fishtales in the GT Test Kitchen and in all our photo shoots.

A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n

JEWEL OF THE COAST Discover Western Australia’s sustainably sourced coastal treasure, the Leeuwin Coast Akoya, through the inspired menus of award-winning local chefs Melissa Palinkas and Seth James.

roduce that serves as both a blank canvas and a standalone hero ingredient is a rare and special thing. And that’s just what two Western Australian chefs have been experimenting with and are now featuring in their cutting-edge restaurants. Enter the Leeuwin Coast Akoya, a pearlescent oyster variety grown sustainably on the Western Australian coastline near Albany. A rich and meaty shellfish, the Akoya offers a variety of culinary possibilities. The versatility of the Leeuwin Coast Akoya has it looking right at home on Melissa Palinkas’s menus at Ethos Deli + Dining Room and Young George. In her award-winning establishments you might find the Akoya buttermilk fried, olive oil poached or paired with chicken in an all-day omelette. With her food philosophy based on seasonal, local and sustainable produce, the Akoya fits her ethos well. “The Akoya act as natural filtration systems and create a positive ecosystem in our waters,” says Palinkas, who searched far and wide for biodegradable plastic wrap and insists suppliers use her environmentally friendly crates for produce. “As a chef with an ethical approach to food, that is important to me.” Seth James, another acclaimed West Australian chef, is just as passionate about sustainability and renowned for his innovative and inventive use of fresh produce. His restaurant, Wills Domain, champions local, seasonal produce with low-food miles. With the Akoya being harvested just a few hours away from the regional restaurant’s kitchen, it’s no surprise you’ll find poached Akoya with ginger and cucumber (a fresh twist on a classic Chinese dish) on the Wills Domain menu. A refined restaurant committed to wild-harvested produce is the perfect place to experience the rich silkiness of the Akoya – until you learn you can make it yourself with the following recipes. Homegrown and home-cooked? It doesn’t get better than that.

SETH JAMES, WILLS DOMAIN “Being given the opportunity to work with a unique product from the amazing coastline of the state I now call home – what more could you want as a chef? I’m enjoying experimenting with the Akoya. Grilling or poaching them is my favourite way to cook them at the moment.”

MELISSA PALINKAS, ETHOS DELI + DINING ROOM AND YOUNG GEORGE “The versatility of the Akoya is exciting to me. I enjoy experimenting with different techniques and flavours. There seems to be no limit to the ways in which you can cook with this unique product.”

Buttermilk-fried Leeuwin Coast Akoya with smoked citrus emulsion and pickled lemon skin SERVES 4 12 Leeuwin Coast Akoya Canola oil, for frying SEASONED FLOUR

100 200 100 1 1 1 1 1 1

ml buttermilk gm potato flour gm rice flour tsp salt tbsp dried oregano tsp white pepper tsp smoked paprika tsp garlic powder tsp onion powder SMOKED CITRUS EMULSION

Poached Leeuwin Coast Akoya with ginger and cucumber SERVES 4 12 Leeuwin Coast Akoya, shucked 1 tbsp grapeseed oil ½ tsp sesame oil 35 gm knob ginger, finely shredded 6 tbsp Shaoxing wine 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 300 ml chicken stock 1 tbsp ginger vinegar 1 tsp sugar 2 tbsp light soy 6 spring onions, cut into lengths 1½ tbsp cornflour 50 ml water 1 Lebanese cucumber, sliced into batons 2 tbsp roasted sesame seeds Steamed rice, to serve

1 Remove Akoya from the shell and remove the abductor muscle from both sides. Rinse through cold water and remove the beard from the Akoya. 2 Bring a pan to smoking hot, add all oil and ginger and stir-fry until golden brown. Deglaze pan with Shaoxing wine. 3 Add garlic, stock, vinegar, sugar and light soy and bring to the boil. Add spring onions and simmer for 2 minutes. 4 Make a slurry from the cornflour and water then whisk into the pan. 5 Add Akoya and poach for 3 minutes. Check seasoning, adding light soy to taste. 6 Remove pan from the heat and fold through cucumber and sesame seeds. Serve with steamed rice.

2 1 ½ 15 1 250

egg yolks tsp smoked paprika tsp Dijon mustard ml lemon juice tsp salt ml grapeseed oil PICKLED LEMON SKIN

Spent lemon husk of 1 lemon, juice and peel reserved, pith removed 2 tsp sea salt ½ tsp citric acid 60 ml water 1 Make the pickled lemon skin two days in advance. Start with peeling the outside of the spent lemon husk – the lemon juice will go into the emulsion. Finely julienne peel, add salt and citric acid and leave for 24 hours. After 24 hours, add the water and leave overnight.

2 Shuck Akoya and rinse in ice-cold water. Place into a small stainless-steel bowl and pour over buttermilk. Leave overnight. 3 Clean shells and set aside. Combine all flours and spices and set aside. 4 In a bowl, whisk egg yolks with smoked paprika, mustard and lemon juice. Stream in grapeseed oil until emulsified. Season with salt and adjust as needed. 5 To assemble, coat each Akoya in seasoned flour and place on a rack. 6 Heat a shallow pan with oil. When it reaches 190°C, fry Akoya in two batches of six until crisp. 7 Take pickled peel from the solution. Dice very finely and place in a little olive oil. 8 To serve, place the smoked citrus emulsion into a sauce bottle and squeeze a good amount onto each reserved shell. 9 Place Akoya on top of the emulsion and spoon a little pickled lemon skin on top. Repeat with remaining Akoya.

“We have a culture of zero waste and it’s just who we are. Working with like-minded producers, like Leeuwin Coast, is a part of that.” Melissa Palinkas

On Sale Now

AVA I L A BL E W H ER E A L L G OOD BOOK S A R E SOL D A N D AT A R EM EDI A BOOK S.COM.AU

Anatomy of a dish

Paella Spain’s best-loved export is the ultimate one-pot wonder.

WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH. PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MOFFATT. STYLING OLIVIA BLACKMORE.

here are two words to describe paella: crowd pleaser. The instantly recognisable dish is arguably one of Spain’s finest national treasures. The original recipe can be traced back to the early 1800s and Albufera, a lakeside region south of Valencia. Made with rabbit and snails, it was a creation that made the most of locally sourced ingredients that were common at the time. Now, it’s a much-loved staple in almost every Spanish household. Although recipes differ from region to region, they all have one thing in common: the paella pan. “That’s the emblematic thing about paella, it’s the pan itself,” says Frank Camorra, chef and owner of Melbourne’s MoVida restaurants. A symbol of good times, the paella has become a party favourite around the world and the perfect way to feed a crowd.

THE SOFRITO Sofrito is the beautiful aromatic base of alliums and diced vegetables that starts any soup, sauce or stew. For paella, Camorra likes to add whole garlic cloves, onion, capsicum, finely grated tomato and saffron. “We cook it down as slowly as possible so it becomes quite jammy.”

Find one

Melbourne’s MoVida Aqui serves standout paella, while Bomba offers three different varieties, including one with smoked eggplant, piquillo jam and goat’s curd.

THE RICE THE MEAT AND SEAFOOD Chicken is the most popular choice here. The meat is cooked with the sofrito, while the seafood – generally whitefleshed fish, prawns, calamari and mussels – tops it all off.

THE STOCK Camorra suggests using a light fish stock to allow the other flavours to truly sing. “We make our fish stock with lots of fish bones, whole onions, whole tomatoes, and then simmer for an hour or two.”

Short-grain rice is essential as it absorbs liquid more easily. Camorra recommends bomba for its low starch content. The one golden rule: never stir the rice. You want it to be soft yet crisp – stirring will prevent a golden crust from forming.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Steamed pudding A classic steamed pudding is both comforting and nostalgic, and the perfect antidote to cool autumn days.

Masterclass

he humble steamed pud is a dish forged from warmth and comfort. This marmalade version is made even more nostalgic by its aromatic, citrus-forward syrup of sticky marmalade. Slices of orange, which are served just on the verge of caramelised, drip with sweet syrup whilst creating a tart layer and soft, chewy texture. It’s a colourful, eye-catching centrepiece ideal for any dinner party or family celebration, and a confident crowd-pleaser for those with a sweet tooth. Serve as is or with a dollop of crème fraîche alongside.

Citrus substitute You can substitute orange with any in-season citrus, such as mandarin, tangelo or blood orange.

WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH. RECIPE DOMINIC SMITH. PHOTOGRAPHY WILL HORNER. STYLING HANNAH BLACKMORE.

2 Step by step

Arrange half of the syrupy orange slices (see recipe, right) in base of a buttered 2-litre pudding basin, then pour in half of the reserved syrup.

Beat 150gm softened butter and 150gm caster sugar in an electric mixer until pale and fluffy. Add 3 eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Fold in 200gm self-raising flour and 75gm almond meal, then 370gm orange marmalade, finely grated rind of 1 orange and 200ml buttermilk (batter will look slightly split). Spoon batter into prepared pudding basin and smooth top.

Place a sheet of foil and baking paper on the bench. Fold a 5cm pleat through the centre of both sheets, then cover pudding. This allows for expansion during steaming. Cover with the layer of pleated foil and baking paper; secure with string or a lid.

Place in a large saucepan; add boiling water to three-quarters of the way up sides of pudding basin, cover saucepan with a lid and steam until a skewer withdraws clean (2 hours). Top saucepan up with extra boiling water if necessary.

Invert pudding onto a serving plate, spoon over any extra syrup and top with reserved syrupy orange slices. Serve with thick vanilla custard. ●

3 Syrupy oranges Thinly slice 1 large orange into rounds, then add to a saucepan, cover with water and place over medium heat and simmer for 4 minutes to remove bitterness. Drain slices and return to pan. Add 160gm orange marmalade and 80ml water. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 8 minutes or until syrupy. Set aside to cool to room temperature. Drain slices and reserve syrup.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

KITCHEN WISDOM we speak to nine chefs about the family secrets they swear by.

here are some things in life you just know. Little tips, tricks and rituals absorbed from family members that have never been questioned; like the way you tie your shoes, or where to store the Vegemite (always cupboard). In the kitchen, those pearls of wisdom become ingrained, forming the bedrock of a cook’s foundations. From the basics, such as how to chop onions or adding salt to pasta water,

through to more sophisticated and intricate behaviours tied to family and cultural heritage. For Parwana’s Durkhanai Ayubi, those nuggets of knowledge are steeped in Afghan tradition and passed down from her mother, while for Fico’s Federica Andrisani, they come from her Italian father. We speak to nine chefs about those life lessons and how they continue to influence them in the kitchen.

WORDS GEORGIE MEREDITH (INTRO, INTERVIEWS) & JORDAN KRETCHMER (INTERVIEWS).

From perfect roast potatoes to the cleaning power of fresh lime,

LOUIS TIKARAM Stanley and La Mexicana, Brisbane Cooking with my grandmother in Fiji always revolved around seafood – fish, prawns, mussels, etc. And of course nothing is cleaned, peeled, gutted or scaled by your local fishmonger over there, so we would do everything ourselves in the laundry basin outside. For a huge family get-together we would clean and fillet fish, and peel prawns for hours. Our hands would smell of seafood and often we would be pricked by some of the sharp spikes on the prawns and fish. My grandma would always wipe my hands with half a fresh lime, rubbing it into my palms and squeezing it all over my hands, followed by a wash with soap and water. The smell would immediately disappear and the wounds would never become infected. We still do this at Stanley, and whenever a chef is cutting lemon cheeks they save the offcuts for the team to help wash their hands in the kitchen.

MIKE RUSSELL Baker Bleu, Melbourne When I first moved out of home in the early ’00s my mother gave me an old Kenwood food processor with all the attachments. It was already 15 years old at this point. Many people had moved onto stick blenders, mandolins, and mortars and pestles by this point. This thing is still going. I think it’s one of the best machines for a home cook. You can mix bread dough, short pastry, pasta dough. It’s also great for pesto, sauces and even smoothies. It’s the king of the kitchen. But most likely forgotten – so many should rediscover it. It’s probably under your bench. ➤

ROB COCKERILL Bennelong, Sydney My grandmother, Marj Cockerill, was an incredible woman – a publican in Stratford-upon-Avon and wife to Bill, a returned SAS fighter – who loved to bring people together over a Sunday roast. Each Sunday, the pub (which was named the Black Swan on one side of the sign to appeal to the theatre goers, and the Dirty Duck on the other, for the working class of the village) would bring the neighbourhood together under the thatched roof of the pub for roast pork, yorkies, and roast potatoes with all the trimmings. When Marj would make the long journey to Australia to visit, she would recreate this special feast for us. And when she returned to England, my dad would cook it for us, trying to emulate his childhood and his mother’s wonderful ability to bring people together. Now I try to do the same with my family using Grandma Marj’s tips. They are: 1. To make the best crackling, use white vinegar – put the pork in the fridge for 1 hour and then rub it in white vinegar, sit it, score it and then rub it in salt before cooking at high heat for 50 minutes and then low heat as per the size of the pork. 2. Pour the Yorkshire batter directly into the roasting pan with the excess dripping left in the hot pan from your roast. The flavours combine into one delicious yorkie, which can be shared among the family. It’s a winner. 3. Always steam your potatoes, drain them, let them cool down and then rough them up by shaking them around in the pot. Once they are beaten up a little, roast them in duck fat at 180°C for up to an hour.

D U R K H A N A I AY U B I Parwana Afghan Kitchen, Adelaide My reflections are all based on Afghan cooking and what my mum passed down to us as kids and what I now cook at our city store. Rice is a massive part of our cuisine, it’s the central dish that ties everything together. Everything else sits around the rice. It’s a really multi-stepped process that requires precision and intuition. So I think everything that my mum’s taught me about Afghan cooking is the importance of intuition; look and feel and sound. With the rice, for example, one of the steps is that you have to look to make sure the rice is elongated and doubled its original size – rather than just putting the timer on. It’s more of a visual thing. The next part of it, when we bake the rice and let it cook in its own steam, you have to listen to the rice popping. That’s when you turn it off and let it cook in its own heat. By doing that, you end up with really elongated rice that is separated and not sticky or clumpy. It speaks to you from inside the pot. Hearing Mum do it and watching her teach us was really cool. And now rice is one of my favourite things to cook every day.

FEDERICA ANDRISANI

PHOTOGRAPHY ALICIA TAYLOR (PARWANA).

Fico, Hobart

My mother and father live in Fano, in the Marche region of Italy, which is famous for fresh truffles. It’s close to Alba where the best white truffles come from. My father is a doctor and has a lot of friends that he gives free advice to – and they return the favour with truffles. He says if you’re ever making pasta with truffles, to put a little bit of fresh garlic inside because the flavour will become a lot stronger. Add the fresh garlic at the end when you’re emulsifying the pasta. When they make truffle paste, it’s mostly garlic and olives because it enhances the flavour. So I always do that now. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

EUN HEE AN Moon Mart, Sydney

Somyeon (thin, wheat noodles) are something my grandma always cooked when it was hot; too hot to make a proper meal. I grew up with her in Ulsan, South Korea, and it’s very hot in summer. She would say “it’s too hot to eat, I don’t have any appetite today,” and I would get excited because I knew she was about to make one of my favourite dishes. It’s just a simple dish of somyeon, kimchi and cucumber, dressed in soy and sesame oil. Maybe because it is so simple, the way you cook the noodles becomes more important. When cooking somyeon, once the water boils, you need to add half a cup of cold water and do this twice. Once the noodles are cooked, you have to wash them under cold water very roughly as if you’re washing laundry by hand. This gives them a bouncy texture and gets rid of any flour smell. My grandma also taught me that when you wash rice, always throw out the first two to three rinses quickly because dehydrated rice will soak up the bad water. And to get the best rice texture in summer, soak the rice for 30 minutes. In winter, soak it for around an hour. Koreans eat rice every day so it’s good to know how to cook it properly. In Korea, little kids learn to say “bap jo” when they’re hungry, which means “I’m hungry, give me food” but literally translates as “give me rice”.

EMMA McCASKILL One of my earliest influences was my grandma, who taught me the bond between people and cooking at a very early age. She is British-Indian, and I have fond memories of making paratha bread together. She never weighed anything and showed me how to make the dough by feel. It’s a dish that’s so simple but there are so many things you pick up along the way. She used ghee in everything, especially paratha. She was pedantic about making sure that all the liquids were room temperature, tepid or warm, never cold. She was very particular on which brand of atta flour to use and to never buy it in a container, rather an aluminium sealed bag. By doing this, the flour stays fresher and the end result tastes much nicer. She also had a special paratha pan, but the closest alternative would be a non-stick pan. There’s enough ghee in the pastry that you don’t need oil in the pan, and you should always start on a moderate to high heat, so the dough doesn’t stick. If it’s too low you won’t create a nice seal. Also, you start off with say 30 seconds each side to get the first colour, then you continuously move it every 10 seconds, so that it cooks evenly.

PHOTOGRAPHY DANIEL PURVIS (EMMA) & JUN CHEN (EUN).

Adelaide

JO BARRETT

Greenhouse, Melbourne My nan was an epic home baker. She was actually a chef and worked in catering kitchens. She also had six children and has 20 grandchildren, so she spent a lot of time baking and cooking. I spent a lot of my school holidays with her and we’d always cook together. No one else really kept the cooking tradition alive except for me becoming a chef. She made lots of typical, Country Women’s Association kind of stuff; lemon slices, cream cheese slice and beautiful puddings. She showed me that the secret to great pastry was freezing and coarse-grating butter on a box grater to get even, crispy pastry. Because the butter is frozen and really cold, you’re able to distribute it evenly throughout the flour. It also stays really cool, so it doesn’t melt and absorb into the flour – it keeps its integrity.

CUONG NGUYEN Hello Auntie, Sydney

We migrated to Australia in the ’80s when I was very young. I’ve been eating Vietnamese food all my life, but most of my professional career has been in Western kitchens. When I started working in restaurants, I started cooking more at home. My mum would always correct what I was doing. Sometimes we’d have arguments, because I’d say “This isn’t what they are teaching me!” But I’ve learned a lot from her. When making phở, for a clean broth, you should soak bones overnight to remove the blood. I’ve never worked in any Western kitchens where they rinse or wash the bones or soak them, instead they usually roast them. I never took much notice of it, until I started cooking a lot of Asian food, where it makes a lot of sense. I soak the bones overnight, so when it comes to making the stock it’s a lot easier to make it clear because the impurities have already come out. 

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

C U L T U R E C L U B

A new wave of café culture is emerging across Australia as chefs and owners bring their diverse cultural heritage and traditions to the table, writes LEE TRAN LAM.

PHOTOGRAPHY JIWON KIM (SOUL DELI).

ome cafés chase Instagram trends, but Saha Soul Deli’s owners have a four-year-old son, Noah, in Adelaide serves century-old dishes instead. and he’s already aware of the cultural split in his world. “We wanted to bring our heritage into our Korean is “grandpa’s language”, while English is his “friends’ cooking,” says Jinan Mehio, who runs the language”. But food can be understood by everyone. business with husband Abdoullah. These “That’s the reason why we do this,” says Illa Kim. “Food recipes have survived a lot, such as war in is – especially for kids who grow up between two cultures Lebanon and a devastating fire at Saha’s original location. – something that helps them identify with their culture.” They moved the café to a new site after the 2019 blaze, When other children recoil when presented with the fatteh, ful and manoushi remain as their grandparents’ kimchi, Noah notices. “Those kids who don’t cringe, they grandparents made it: the chickpeas topped with yoghurt connect culturally,” she says. And minimising that cringe tahini, broad beans flavoured with garlic, lemon and olive factor is important to the owners. oil and flatbreads seasoned with za’atar. “I’m trying to make the food ‘a soft landing’ to Don’t treat the whole menu as an ancient text that someone,” says chef Lee. His dishes are welcoming and can’t be changed, though: Mehio recalls their mothers Australian-influenced, without losing the Korean DNA. “workshopping” dishes at the café’s start. “It was a bit like “It’s not about giving someone the mellow version of World War III some days – hearing about how much salt something,” says Kim. The white kimchi hasn’t been tamed should be in one dish, or how much lemon should be for Western tastes, for instance. “That’s the original way on another,” she says. Their parents are key to Saha: her that kimchi was done before chilli powder came to Korea,” dad’s za’atar is dusted over 10 different dishes, while she says. “We try to show diversity, because within Korean her father-in-law makes the Lebanese sweets. cuisine, there’s a lot that people don’t know yet.” Like any rule-abiding café, there’s smashed avocado on Like gyeran mari, an omelette stuffed with salted cod offer, but tahini dressing and pomegranate molasses give roe, or “Ottogi-style” hot cakes, influenced by a Korean it a Middle Eastern twist. This blended approach reflects brand they grew up with. Even the avocado toast is inspired the Mehios’ upbringing: her husband’s family will serve by Seoul’s take on Australian cafés. an English-style roast if you pop over, because While “sometimes it’s a burden” dealing they lived in a South Australian country town, with your Korean identity, Kim is proud of “We’re able but “my dad will never touch anything like Soul Deli’s role in bridging cultures. Their to be who we that”. He insists on Lebanese meals every day Korean-Australian manager “never felt like and she remembers “it was the event of the are every single he was living in Sydney as a Korean”, she says. year” if she could visit Pizza Hut or day. It’s so nice Now the café has been embraced by locals McDonald’s as a kid. and regulars know his name, he feels he’s to be able to Saha is the Mehios’ third café, but the finally home. first with a menu fully reflecting their Middle “We always loved this café culture that do that.” Eastern and Australian roots. “We’re able to Australia has,” says Gabriel Gebaile, who runs be who we are every single day,” she says. Melbourne’s Bossa Nova with wife Gabriela. The couple “It’s so nice to be able to do that.” grew up outside São Paulo, where there were bakeries and At Daero Lee and Illa Kim’s Soul Deli in Sydney, restaurants – but nothing in between. Their café is about Korean culture rules: the couple’s brunch menu features “spreading the culture” of Brazil; its cuisine goes beyond soybean stew for your soju hangover; the shelves display the meaty, barbecue restaurants represented here. vegan bulgogi sauce, kimchi and goods by Korean-Australian It requires nine hours to cook, but Brazil’s national dish designers. Even the coffee is K-style, with beans by Dan (feijoada) is on Bossa Nova’s menu every day. There’s also Kim’s Primary Coffee Roasters. a vegan version of the pork and bean stew, despite their ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

nervousness about taking it on. “It’s definitely not a case where we can call our granny or grandad for the recipe, because there isn’t one,” says Gabriel. “Vegan culture in Brazil isn’t that strong yet,” says Gabriela. They use soy sauce, vegan butter, four kinds of mushrooms and housesmoked tofu to replicate feijoada’s deep flavours. They also offer vegan and traditional versions of coxinha (fritters) and moqueca (fish stew) to be inclusive. And, yes, selling smashed avo is a “safe choice”, she admits, but they make it as “Brazilian as possible”. Served with a special crunchy bread, it closely resembles the nation’s toasties. Sometimes the couple feels caught between their birthplace and adopted home. “You feel attached to both places and homeless at the same time,” says Gabriela. But when it takes “30 to 40 hours” to get to their homeland (in non-Covid times), their café can be a refuge. As queues trailed outside the Spanish consulate next door due to an election, a homesick Brazilian family dined at Bossa Nova and left a memorable review: “They said: to us, this feels like a Brazilian embassy,” says Gabriel. As a kid, Kantaro Okada loved onigiri, but found it “embarrassing” to take to school. Today, the Japanese rice balls are the star of 279, his queue-attracting café in Melbourne. The menu has onigiri with smashed avocado, cheese, fried chicken – even bacon and eggs, which is more traditional than you’d think. “For a Japanese person, it’s not surprising at all,” he says. He tested 30 kinds of rice to find the best “mochimochi” consistency for shaping onigiri. The café specialises in pour-over miso soup, too. For Okada, it was important to serve food he’s connected to. “Because the homework

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

is done,” he says. 279 is inspired by his longing for Tokyo’s onigiri shops and it makes his staff proud (“They are happy to see so many people enjoying what they enjoyed back in Japan”), but it’s also a tribute to his adopted city’s melting pot culture and helps him feel like a local. “I’m learning a lot about Melbourne,” he says. At The Fold in Sydney, Augi De Hoedt serves traditional Sri Lankan hoppers as well as remixed versions with shakshuka and eggs Benedict. “Opening our own place has been one of my dad’s dreams,” says Travin De Hoedt, his son. Travin and brother Jason would finish their shifts at Franca Brasserie, then drop by The Fold to bake pastries until 4am. Now that The Fold is open for dinner, the siblings are perfecting a Sri Lankan soufflé for the menu. The Fold has affirmed Travin’s heritage and helped fiancée Saaya Takahashi connect “with my parents and our Sri Lankan culture”, he says. She’s even making cashew curry for staff meals at Sixpenny (where she works) and his background spills into his cooking at Franca, too: he baked his dad’s Sri Lankan Christmas cake for its pop-up boulangerie. When Durkhanai Ayubi was working as a chemist, she’d create Afghan toasties in her office. “This is delicious, you should sell this,” her colleagues said. Today, at Adelaide’s Kutchi Deli Parwana, she does. The spiced chickpea (nakhot) and lamb kofta wraps are both flavoured with garlic yoghurt and greens and toasted in Afghan bread. It’s borne of her Australian office life and Afghan roots, but she refuses to split her identity into clinical categories. “There is no half-east, half-west, Afghan-Australian,” she says. Her accumulated cultural memories and human experiences are what make her cooking unique. “I’m 100 per cent all of those identities.” ●

“You feel attached to both places and homeless at the same time.”

Above: the pour-over miso at Kantaro Okada’s 279 in Melbourne. Opposite, from top: The Fold’s Saaya Takahashi, Jason, Augi and Travin De Hoedt; hopper Benedict at The Fold. PREVIOUS PAGE Brunch at Soul Deli. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

m ar ch

at the u

age niq t i r ue re e staurants operating in h

gs i dd e t -lis

acK ENZIE.

PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF BENTLEY AND RADISSON BLU (SMH READING ROOM) & MURRAY FREDERICKS (BENTLEY).

RA CE M

y tor his and

rit es G

ce Opulen

di ne rs ,w

Heritage

trust O

perating a restaurant within a heritagelisted building comes at a cost. Namely, the challenge of restoring, renovating and cooking under strict limitations. But according to Bentley’s Brent Savage, the historic spaces are well worth the cost and effort. “It’s an absolute privilege to go into these buildings on a daily basis,” he says. From booming banks and the glory days of print media, there are a number of Australian restaurants serving diners a glimpse of bygone eras; with original architecture and features adding historic charm to the overall dining experience.

Sydney’s Bentley restaurant. Opposite: Nineteenth-century Fairfax subscribers in the Sydney Morning Herald reading room.

- NSW -

BENTLEY

In 1856, inquisitive readers gathered at The Herald Corner, where Pitt, O’Connell and Hunter Streets meet in the CBD, to pick up The Sydney Morning Herald straight off the presses housed in a grand new building. The Renaissance Palazzo-style edifice featured Bondi sandstone and Bowral trachyte cladding, with Caleula marble wrapped impressively around the interior. After nearly a century of publishing the daily paper, the last day of news was typeset in the cupola-topped building in 1955. Today, diners at the internationally acclaimed Bentley have replaced news hounds in the ground floor reading room. Savage, co-owner and head chef, notes the privilege of operating in the incredible space. “We’ve always kept in mind what these buildings represent… [they] set expectations, you have to be really mindful of that when you take on these prestigious buildings.” thebentley.com.au ➤

- NSW -

Light-filled and undeniably regal, the Grand Ballroom at the top of Sydney’s Queen Victoria Building now devotes itself to the historically exclusive art of high tea. Constructed in 1898, in honour of Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee, the building – with its iconic turquoise domes and opulent stained glass windows – fills an entire city block and is Australia’s largest and grandest Victorian arcade. In another lifetime, residents ranged from florists, clairvoyants, tailors and hairdressers to the city library and Sydney City Council. Now The Tea Room demands sophisticated fun, with its hand-printed Florence Broadhurst wallpaper, customdesigned Baccarat crystal chandeliers, ornate ceilings and arched windows. Head chef Rob Crichton notes they’re “conscious to be classic”, matching the “elegant, classy and not too contemporary [food]” to the space. Savouring one-bite morsels and sipping from Royal Albert china, it’s not hard to envisage yourself there in 1898, celebrating the long-reigning monarch. thetearoom.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY @JOSHPIKESHOTS.

THE TEA ROOM

- VIC -

BANK ON COLLINS As Melbourne prospered in the mid-19th century, the Bank of Australasia set up its Australian headquarters on Collins Street, at the heart of the banking district. Indicative of the wealth being generated and the international ties the bank had, the building was constructed using imported Oamaru stone from New Zealand. Known for designing prominent buildings – Melbourne Town Hall, The State Library, Royal Exhibition Building, to name a few – distinguished architect Joseph Reed led the first stage of the project. The next development saw the height soar a further three storeys and a light well cut through the centre. A refined example of conservative Renaissance Revival design, the ground floor is now home to Bank on Collins, complete with high ceilings, chandeliers that dazzle and a 17-metre bronze bar. thebankoncollins.com.au ➤

Left: the sandstone exterior of The Bank on Collins in Melbourne’s CBD. Below: the raw bar at Adelaide’s Fishbank. Opposite: high tea is served in the QVB’s opulent ballroom.

- SA -

PHOTOGRAPHY LR PHOTOGRAPHY (BANK ON COLLINS) & KATE BOWMAN (FISHBANK).

FISHBANK The towering windows overlooking Adelaide’s North Terrace and King William Street were once peered out of by bankers. Completed in 1942, the heritage-listed Art Deco building, which was previously the South Australian headquarters of the Bank of New South Wales, showcases the modernist design aesthetic of financial institutions in the mid-1930s. Bank vaults have since been converted to bathrooms, but the original steel sliding door that protected the exterior remains fully operational, albeit in the cellar. Tony Carroll, executive chef of the new resident restaurant Fishbank, notes the brilliance of the room, saying: “It’s worth its weight in gold”. High ceilings, art deco lights and chandeliers juxtapose with a bespoke oceanic video installation looped on a 10-metre screen overhead, without losing the essence of the room. A challenging feat, Carroll admits, but necessary with an offering that’s “more casual than what the room first suggests”. fishbankadel.com.au

- WA -

‘Point zero’ is the spot from which all road distances are measured in Western Australia. It also happens to be where Perth’s iconic State Buildings are. The mid 19th-century structure was formerly the Post Office, land titles office and treasury. It has received numerous updates over the years, but in 1904 the external façade was redone in the French Second Empire style that it is known for today. The three interconnecting heritage-listed buildings still have their original timber sash windows, which overlook the recently revamped retail and dining precinct. Now, you can relish in the building’s sheer magnitude at COMO The Treasury’s all-day osteria, Post, which is set inside the original franking room of Perth’s General Post Office. postperth.com - VIC -

CIAO CIELO The old Port Melbourne Courthouse, with its sandstone walls, soaring ceilings and oak beams, remains largely as it did in 1860, when it was built for the princely sum of £1000 to oversee justice proceedings in the Victorian foreshore area. Now it houses Italian fine diner Ciao Cielo. The Renaissance style is typical of Public Works Department buildings of the era, and is what the restaurant owners Kate Dickins and head chef Bryan Nelson love about the location. Renovating under the careful watch of Heritage Victoria and design studio Atelier Wagner, the classic details were retained, with the addition of a long, stone bar and blue leather banquettes. During winter the original judge’s chambers fire is lit, creating a special experience for diners. ciaocielo.com.au 72

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

From top: arched doors welcome diners to Perth’s Post Osteria; original 19th century architecture at Ciao Cielo in Port Melbourne.

PHOTOGRAPHY MARTIN MORRELL (POST OSTERIA) & KEVIN LI (CIAO CIELO).

POST OSTERIA

PHOTOGRAPHY BLINK PRODUCTIONS/MIKE ANNESE (MARBLE BAR) & TANIA BAHR-VOLLRATH (CHANCERY LANE).

From left: Sydney’s viridescent Marble Bar; the dining room at Chancery Lane, Melbourne.

- NSW -

- VIC -

MARBLE BAR

CHANCERY LANE

With soaring marble arches, ornate pillars, intricate carvings and a collection of original Julian Ashton paintings, Marble Bar is as close to a virtual time machine as you’ll find, transporting patrons back to a time when the high society venue first entertained Sydney’s elite. Originally housed in the Tattersalls Hotel, the bar was built in 1893 from the riches generated by George Adams’ horse racing sweepstakes. In line with his lavish lifestyle, and under his strict orders, the exclusive watering hole was furnished with marble imported from Europe, mosaic floors, stained glass windows and an impressive domed roof. Incredibly, in the late 1960s, the bar was meticulously dismantled, transported and reassembled in 1973, underneath the Hilton Hotel, where it continues to impress today. marblebarsydney.com.au

Strolling down the bluestone paving of Little Collins Street in Melbourne, wrought iron lamp posts frame the heritage-listed Normanby Chambers. Matthew Henry Davies, a solicitor and politician, commissioned the build in 1883. Housing the offices of prominent legal firms and architects, the building is a near-perfect example of pre-war architecture. These days, the building is home to a new tenant, with chef and restaurateur Scott Pickett opening the European bistro Chancery Lane in December. Dark rimmed arch windows, chequerboard tiling and brushed brass accent the moody venue, while the building’s exterior remains in its original form. A serve of old world grandeur – a bump of Giaveri beluga caviar, pillowy gnocchi Parisienne – pays homage to the opulence the original tenants once strived for. chancerylane.com.au ●

FEELS LIKE

M H E Australian chefs tell ALEXANDRA CARLTON about the restaurants that put them deep in their comfort zone; where the smiles are genuine, the food is nostalgic and everybody knows your name.

JULIAN HILLS CHEF-OWNER NAVI, MELBOURNE

ILLUSTRATIONS JEANNEL CUNANAN, JOSHUA MORRIS & KELSIE WALKER.

NATASYA SOETANTYO

“I love ph and so does my wife Georgia, it’s part of the reason we moved back to Melbourne, and particularly to the west. A regular of ours is Ph Chú Th in Footscray, where the broth is always fragrant. My eldest daughter Eleanor gets so excited when we say we’re going there for dinner. They serve her a kid’s helping with scissors so you can cut up the noodles. When she was two we cut them up for her but now she’s four she cuts up her own and adds her desired sauces. The staff already know what the girls are going to eat before we say anything and they know that Eleanor wants the blue booster seat, not the red. Going there is the one family outing where we all sit relaxed for a minute (just a minute!) and enjoy our dinner.” Ph Chú Th , 92 Hopkins St, Footscray, Vic

CHEF-OWNER SALT & PALM, SYDNEY “The staff at Ayam Bakar 7 Saudara in Sydney are like typical Indonesian aunties and uncles, who always want to make sure you’re eating enough. They keep coming to the table asking if I’d like some more sambal; do you want this, do you want that. Last time I was there they gave me three desserts, which reminds me of my mum and auntie back in Indonesia who would always say ‘you’re too skinny!’ and feed me more. They play old Indonesian ballads like the ones my uncle used to play – you don’t really hear that kind of music any more. It’s such wonderful hospitality and makes you feel like you’re with family.” ➤ Ayam Bakar 7 Saudara, 34 Penshurst St, Sydney, NSW

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

STEPHEN PEAK

DANIEL GRONEBERG EXECUTIVE CHEF KOOROOMBA KITCHEN, MOUNT ALFORD, QLD “My grandfather Arthur Parsonage returned to Sydney from World War II and entered a raffle run by the government to win a business. He won, and that business was a butcher shop. He decided he needed an extra outlet for all the meat he was producing so he opened the first Black Stump restaurant in Sydney in the early ’70s. I was going to the Black Stump before I could even walk. It was the place where I learned about the workings of a restaurant, and also where I got to eat my favourite things: prawns wrapped in bacon, and oysters. Everything was sent out on scorching cast-iron platters and you’d watch the customers’ heads turn as they were delivered, steam and smoke filling the restaurant. The Black Stump ended up becoming a chain, but those memories have followed me throughout my life. It inspires me to this day to create a space that brings people together at a restaurant table and makes them feel at home.”

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

HEAD CHEF, THE AGRARIAN KITCHEN NEW NORFOLK, TAS “I was holidaying in Tasmania the first time I walked into Tom McHugo’s in Hobart – a pub I didn’t know, in a city I’d never been to before. I walked up to the bar and [owner] Whitney [Ball] struck up a conversation as if we were old friends. I sat down, sipped a Derwent Ale and knew I was home. Two or three months later I decided to move to Tasmania for good. Obviously the main reason was for my job at The Agrarian Kitchen, but it was also the sort of comfortable feeling I got at places like Tom McHugo’s that impacted my decision. It’s a place that the whole hospitality community is drawn to; you see familiar faces every time you’re there and the staff are friendly and warm. Coming from Byron Bay, where things have become so busy and overrun with tourists, I didn’t get that sort of feeling in my hometown any more. I didn’t have a local pub or restaurant I could go to that gave me that sense of community. Tom McHugo’s has a sign behind the bar that says ‘home away from home’. It’s the feeling I got the moment I stepped inside, and it’s never left me.” ➤ Tom McHugo’s Hobart Hotel, 87 Macquarie St, Hobart, Tas

ALEJANDRO SARAVIA DIRECTOR AND EXECUTIVE CHEF FARMER’S DAUGHTERS, MELBOURNE “Gippsland has a lot of triggers that remind me of my childhood in Peru, particularly the diversity of the climate and the produce. My son is three, and I’ve always wondered how I could give him that sense of identity that I had in Peru. By spending time among the producers and growers and restaurants in Gippsland, I hope I can make him as proud to be from Victoria as I am to be from Peru. Trevor Perkins at Hogget Kitchen in Warragul has kindly shared his knowledge of the region and helped me to connect with local producers, and earn their respect and trust. They source all their product locally and make you feel part of their family in their own dining room. When we go there I feel an immediate connection to the region. If I could move there I would.” Hogget Kitchen, 6 Farrington Cl, Warragul, Vic, hogget.com.au

JULIAN CINCOTTA CO-OWNER BUTTER, SYDNEY “Pizza is probably my favourite food. I mean, when can you say no to bread and meat! And being of Italian heritage, going to Bella Brutta in Newtown brings back a lot of memories of big family gatherings where someone was always rolling out dough and getting the woodfired oven going. My auntie would make dough overnight with dry yeast – simple and tasty. The only thing I used to hate was the sfincione [Sicilian-style pizza] with anchovies because I hated anchovies, but my auntie would make one for me without them. Bella Brutta’s clam pizza is amazing and the mortadella is incredible but it’s really all about Luke Powell’s unique tasty base. I always eat a pizza and a half when I go there. And these days I always order the anchovies.” Bella Brutta, 135 King St, Newtown, NSW, bellabrutta.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

MASSIMO SPERONI HEAD CHEF BACCHUS RESTAURANT, BRISBANE “Pause, just a few kilometres outside of Brisbane, looks like a boutique house. The welcome from Luca, the restaurant manager and sommelier, is astonishing; the way he speaks makes me feel like I’m chatting to my brother, but his knowledge of wines and the stories behind them is phenomenal. It’s so surprising to find food like this 30 kilometres from Brisbane in a small town. The flavours, presentation and research that goes into each dish is amazing. For me, a chef with Italian heritage, the best experience is always when the pasta course is unveiled. The pasta here is some of the best I have ever eaten. The spaghettini with bisque and fish; the carbonara ravioli. Both are an explosion of taste. The entire atmosphere, the service, the location and the food make me feel right at home.” Pause, 16 Main St, Samford Village, Qld, pausesamford.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

CHEF YOMO OWNER ISHIZUKA, MELBOURNE “Kenzan in Melbourne feels like Japan, especially the sushi counter. When I’m there I feel omotenashi, or Japanese hospitality. They do omakase, which are the best creations of the day according to the chef’s preference. You sit at the counter and feel the intimacy with the chef, exchanging enthusiasm and passion.” Kenzan, 45 Collins St, Melbourne, Vic, kenzan.com.au ●

On Sale 6th May

*On-sale 6/05/2021 – 01/06/2021 or while stocks last. Subject to availability. Not in conjunction with any other offer. One puzzle per magazine purchase. Participating magazine titles include: Woman’s Day, New Idea, Who, Better Homes and Gardens, The Australian Women’s Weekly, That’s Life, Take 5, The Australian Women’s Weekly Food, Take 5 Mega Puzzler, TV Week, Home Beautiful, The Australian Women’s Weekly Cookbooks, That’s Life Puzzler on the Go, New Idea Royals Monthly, Bluey, Real Living, Gourmet Traveller, Australian House & Garden, Family Circle, That’s Life Mega Monthly, Marie Claire and Delicious. © Disney © Disney•Pixar © & ™ 2021 Lucasfilm LTD © 2021 Marvel. All Rights Reserved. Visit www.disney.com

Treat Mum with a subscription to her favourite magazine for YOU R CH A NCE TO

WIN A SHARE IN

$25,000

VISIT

magshop.com.au/mum14

Subscriber benefits: FREE home delivery ONE lucky winner will win $20,000 cash FIVE runners up will win $1,000 cash each

Yes, I would like to subscribe to Gourmet Traveller P AY M E N T O P T I O N S (Australian rates) I wish to subscribe for (tick one only)

Me Gift

1 year

(12 issues) $69.99

1 year

(12 issues) $74.99

SAVE 42%

(GMTC_12_6999_A )

SAVE 37%

(GMTA_12_7499)

*Automatic renewal *Upfront payment

I already subscribe. Please extend my subscription with the offer selected above. For overseas rates, visit magshop.com.au/mum14 Mrs/Ms/Miss/Mr Address Postcode Telephone (

)

G I FT R EC I P I E N T D E TA I LS Mrs/Ms/Miss/Mr Address Postcode

1 2 ES

1 3 ES

I SS U

FROM $69.99 SAVE UP TO 42%

FROM $69.99 SAVE UP TO 25%

Telephone (

)

PAY M E N T D E TA I L S Cheque/money order for $________ is enclosed payable to Magshop or charge my

Visa

MasterCard

Amex

Cardholder’s name (please print) Cardholder’s signature

Expiry date

PLEASE PHOTOCOPY THIS ORDER FORM FOR ADDITIONAL SUBSCRIPTIONS

1 1 ES

1 2 ES

I SS U

FROM $69.99 SAVE UP TO 34%

FROM $69.99 SAVE UP TO 36%

1 2 ES

I SS U

FROM $69.99 SAVE UP TO 25%

CALL

FROM $69.99 SAVE UP TO 34%

13 6 116

and quote M21MGMT

HURRY! OFFER ENDS MAY 31, 2021.

Subscribing is easy Send original or copy of this coupon (no stamp required) to: Magshop Reply Paid 5252 Sydney, NSW, 2000 Competition opens on 22/03/2021 at 12:01am AEDT and closes 31/05/2021 at 11:59pm AEST. Competition is open to all residents of Australia aged 18 years or over, who subscribe or renew their subscription to one or more magazine titles or purchase any product available on Magshop (magshop.com.au). Competition draw will take place 08/06/2021 at 11am AEST. Please see aremedia.com.au/privacy for our privacy policy. For full terms and conditions of entry, visit magshop. com.au/mothersday-tc. The Promoter is Are Media pty ltd (ABN 18 053 273 546). Authorised under permit numbers: NSW: TP/00018, SA: T21/302, ACT: TP 21/00329 By including your email address, Gourmet Traveller will keep you informed of offers and updates from our publisher, Are Media Pty Limited, and specially selected partners. Please tick if you’d prefer to not receive offers and updates from: ☐Are Media Pty Limited ☐Our specially selected partners. Our Privacy Policy can be found at aremedia.com.au/privacy and includes important information about our collection, use and disclosure of your personal information (including the provision of targeted advertising based on your online activities). It explains that if you do not provide us with information we have requested from you, we may not be able to provide you with the goods and services you require. It also explains how you can access or seek correction of your personal information, how you can complain about a breach of the Australian Privacy Principles and how we will deal with a complaint of that nature.

Life tastes better with a Liebherr Your elegant solution for preserving wine & food

Quality, Design and Innovation

home.liebherr.com.au

FOOD M AY

Classic comfort

PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES MOFFATT.

Chef Junda Khoo’s family banquet, perfect pies, Anna Jones’ one-pot wonders, and recipes from a Syrian kitchen.

Braised bitter greens pot pie

Photography ALICIA TAYLOR Styling VIVIEN WALSH

FA M I LY

TIES

Vegetable laksa

Ho Jiak owner and head chef JUNDA KHOO shares a Malaysian family banquet that pays homage to his amah.

Preserved radish omelette

Chilli prawns

CHAI PO NUI

Preserved radish omelette SERVES 4 AS PART OF A BANQUET // PREP TIME 5 MINS // COOK 10 MINS

“This is a dish my amah used to make – we would have it with congee for breakfast or lunch,” says Junda Khoo. “It’s something very simple but it brings back so many memories of her.”

rafting a restaurant identity is no easy task. But when inspiration is drawn directly from your family, childhood and cultural heritage, it is deeply personal too. Which is just part of what makes Sydney’s Ho Jiak restaurants so welcoming. After opening the first Ho Jiak in 2014 – a small 12-seat restaurant in Strathfield – chef Junda Khoo found the confidence to open a second, larger outpost in Haymarket. “That’s when Ho Jiak really developed its identity,” says Khoo. He decided the Haymarket outpost would pay homage to his amah – his grandmother – who taught him to cook and continued to school him until she passed away in late 2019, just weeks before he opened his third restaurant. “I always watched her cook and I learned a lot,” says Khoo. “When we opened, some people said, ‘You’re crazy for charging [that much] for homecooked food.’ But my grandma always said, ‘Yes it may be simple, but if you do simple things right, it can actually be amazing’.” Khoo continued to hone his craft as a chef, working towards his most ambitious project yet; a bright, bold and colourful restaurant that would highlight the breadth and depth of Malaysian cuisine in a contemporary way. That restaurant, Ho Jiak Town Hall, came to life in early 2020. “My job here was to show the people that Malaysian food isn’t just about nasi lemak, but it’s a variety of food from different regions,” he explains. “The laksa you get from the north of Malaysia tastes completely different to something you’d get in the south.” For this issue, Junda has taken inspiration from his family’s traditional recipes to create a banquet menu to share. “By providing these recipes, I hope my amah’s legacy lives on through her food now that she’s gone.” hojiak.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

4 eggs 30 gm preserved salted radish, drained and chopped (see note) 1 tbsp dashi powder 1 tsp chicken stock powder Pinch of ground white pepper 1 tsp caster sugar 60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil, plus extra to drizzle Coriander, shredded iceberg lettuce and julienned carrot, to serve 1 For omelette, whisk eggs, radish, dashi, stock powder, pepper and sugar together in a bowl until well combined. 2 Heat oil in a large wok or non-stick frying pan over high heat until oil starts to smoke. Immediately add egg mixture and reduce heat to low. Stir briefly at the start of cooking then cook without stirring until side is puffed like a soufflé and the base of the omelette is set and golden underneath (4 minutes). Drizzle in a little extra oil around the side of the omelette, flip and cook until golden and cooked through (2 minutes). If you’re not confident flipping, cover pan with a lid for 2 minutes. Drain off excess oil, fold in half then slide onto a plate. Garnish with coriander, lettuce and carrot to serve. Note Preserved salted radish is available from Asian supermarkets.

Chilli prawns SERVES 4 AS PART OF A BANQUET // PREP TIME 10 MINS // COOK 20 MINS

“This dish is like Singapore chilli crab but with prawns instead,” says Khoo.

2½ tbsp tomato sauce 1 tsp chilli sauce 1 tsp chicken stock powder 2 tsp caster sugar ½ tsp soy sauce ½ tsp toasted belacan (see note) 20 green king prawns, peeled, with tails intact and cleaned 2 tsp dashi powder 1 tbsp finely chopped chives 1 eggwhite, lightly beaten Coriander, to serve CHILLI PASTE

3 50 3 1 2½

long red chillies gm peeled ginger, finely grated garlic cloves small red onion, finely chopped tbsp vegetable oil

1 For chilli paste, process chillies, ginger, garlic and onion to a paste in a food processor or blender and season to taste. Heat oil in a non-stick frying pan over medium-high heat, add paste and cook, stirring continuously, until fragrant (5 minutes). 2 Add 250ml water to chilli paste, then add sauces, stock powder, half the sugar and belacan. Bring to the boil, reduce heat to medium and simmer until thickened (6 minutes). Reduce heat to low, add prawns and cook until just cooked through (5 minutes), then stir in remaining sugar, dashi and ½ tsp sea salt flakes to season. Remove from heat and stir through chives and eggwhite. Transfer to a large platter, scatter with coriander and serve. Note Belacan is a shrimp paste available from Asian grocers and select supermarkets.

Vegetable laksa SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A BANQUET // PREP TIME 25 MINS // COOK 1 HR 30 MINS

“This is a laksa lemak, which is from Kuala Lumpur,” says Khoo. “When I was a kid, my mum would pick us up after school and take us to the golf club to meet my dad, and while we were waiting we’d eat this laksa. It reminds me of those days.”

60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil 50 gm curry powder ¼ tsp chilli powder 1 tsp ground turmeric 5 fresh curry leaves 1 each star anise and cinnamon quill 1.5 litre unsalted chicken stock 1 torch ginger flower, halved (optional; see note) 1 bunch Vietnamese mint, leaves picked 400 ml canned coconut milk 200 ml canned coconut cream 1 tbsp each caster sugar, sea salt flakes and chicken stock powder 200 gm rice vermicelli 200 gm Hokkien noodles 200 gm snake beans, cut into 5cm lengths 200 gm choy sum, cut into 5cm lengths 200 gm fried tofu, sliced Halved hard-boiled eggs, bean sprouts, round mint leaves, lime wedges, fried shallots, sliced spring onions and laksa sambal (see note), to serve LAKSA PASTE

2 4 1 2 10 2 20 25

red onions, finely chopped garlic cloves, finely chopped lemongrass stalk (10cm) cm piece of ginger, finely grated gm toasted belacan (see note) candlenuts (see note) gm dried prawns gm dried chilli, crushed

1 For laksa paste, pulse ingredients in a food processor until a paste forms. 2 Heat oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over high heat. Add laksa paste and cook, stirring frequently, until fragrant (5 minutes). Add ground, fresh and whole spices with 150ml water and cook, stirring until combined and thickened (5 minutes). 3 Stir in stock, ginger flower (if using) and mint. Bring to the boil, reduce heat to medium and simmer (1 hour). Strain through a fine sieve, discard solids and return to a clean saucepan. Return pan to medium heat and stir in coconut milk, coconut cream, sugar, salt and stock powder. Reduce heat to low-medium; bring to a simmer (about 75°C) taking care not to boil or the mixture will split. 4 Meanwhile, prepare noodles and rice vermicelli according to packet instructions then drain and divide among bowls. Add snake beans and choy sum to the laksa soup and cook (4 minutes). Using tongs, arrange vegetables on top of noodles and rice vermicelli. Pour laksa soup over and top with tofu, eggs, bean sprouts, mint and lime wedges. Scatter with fried shallots and spring onions and serve with laksa sambal on the side. Note Torch ginger flowers are available from select suppliers. Laksa sambal, belacan and candlenuts are available from Asian grocers. ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

TAU EU BAK

Braised soy pork belly SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A BANQUET // PREP TIME 20 MINS // COOK 1 HR 15 MINS

“This was my amah’s signature dish,” says Khoo. “As she aged she couldn’t cook it anymore so my aunts and uncles came up with their own version; and this is mine.” 2½ tbsp vegetable oil 800 gm piece boneless pork belly, skin on, cut into 3cm pieces 5 garlic cloves 2 star anise 1 tsp black pepper, cracked 2 tbsp dark soy sauce 60 ml (¼ cup) light soy sauce 1 tbsp karamel masakan (see note) 1 tbsp caster sugar 2 eggs Sliced spring onions and steamed white rice, to serve

1 Heat oil in a large heavy-based saucepan over high heat. Add pork and cook, turning frequently, until browned all over (5 minutes). Add garlic and star anise and cook until garlic is fragrant (2 minutes). Add 750ml water followed by pepper, soy sauce, karamel masakan and sugar. Bring to the boil then reduce heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, until tender and cooked (1 hour). (Ensure your saucepan is both large enough to brown the pork but also compact enough to retain the moisture of pork – if too large it will overcook.) Add a little extra water during cooking if needed.

2 Meanwhile, bring a small saucepan of water to the boil. Cook eggs until soft boiled (6½ minutes). Run eggs under cold water until cool enough to handle, then peel and halve lengthways. 3 Once pork is tender and braising liquid reduced by half, transfer pork to a deep platter, then pour over reduced, strained, braising liquid. Serve topped with halved eggs and spring onions and steamed rice on the side. Note Karamel masakan is a dark soy cooking caramel sauce available from Asian supermarkets.

SAM WONG DAN

Steamed eggs MAKES 4 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 25 MINS (PLUS COOLING)

“My amah always said, when done right, simple things can be amazing. Every ingredient plays a big part in making a simple dish perfect,” says Khoo.

4 eggs Pinch each of sea salt flakes and ground white pepper Sliced springs onions, to serve SOY BLEND 60 gm rock sugar 1 tbsp caster sugar 1 tbsp coriander stems, finely chopped 1½ tbsp fish sauce 1 tbsp oyster sauce 150 ml light soy sauce 1 tsp sesame oil ½ tsp Maggi Seasoning (see note)

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 For soy blend, combine 250ml water with sugars in a small saucepan and bring to the boil and stir until sugar has dissolved. Reduce heat to medium, stir in coriander and sauces, then simmer until slightly thickened and glossy (20 minutes). Remove from heat, stir in remaining ingredients and set aside to cool. Makes 350ml. 2 For steamed eggs, place a large bamboo steamer with a lid over a wok or saucepan of boiling water. Meanwhile, gently whisk 400ml water, eggs, salt and white pepper and 60ml soy blend in a large bowl until just combined. Take care to gently whisk mixture to avoid creating too many air bubbles. Using a kitchen blowtorch, carefully heat the surface of the custard mixture to pop

all the air bubbles. Divide mixture among four 200ml (12cm wide) heatproof bowls. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 5 minutes before steaming. Steam custards, in batches if necessary, for 10 minutes or until just set but with a gentle wobble in the centre. Stand custards for 5 minutes and serve slightly warm. 3 To serve, drizzle over a little remaining soy blend with spring onions on the side. Note Leftover soy blend will keep, refrigerated in an airtight container, for 3 months. Maggi Seasoning is available from supermarkets. ➤

“My amah always said, when done right, simple things can be amazing. Every ingredient plays a big part in making a simple dish perfect.

Braised soy pork belly

Steamed eggs

Mixed vegetable stir-fry

Hainanese chicken SERVES 4-6 AS PART OF A BANQUET // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 1 HR (PLUS COOLING)

“Hainanese chicken seems like such a simple dish, but there’s a lot of work and technique that goes into making it,” says Khoo. “It was a staple in our family.”

2 1.6

litres chicken stock kg chicken, halved lengthways, fat trimmed, reserved Soy Blend (see recipe p88), Coriander and sliced spring onions, to serve

CHILLI PASTE

00 2 6 80 1 1 3 60 1½

gm long red chillies (about 12) garlic cloves gm peeled ginger, finely grated tbsp sea salt flakes tbsp caster sugar tsp chicken stock powder ml (¼ cup) lime juice or to taste tbsp sesame oil

CHICKEN RICE

400 2 1 2 1 1

gm (2 cups) jasmine rice tbsp vegetable oil small red onion, finely chopped garlic cloves, finely chopped lemongrass stalk (white part only), finely chopped litre chicken poaching liquid (from Hainanese chicken)

1 For chicken, combine stock with 2 litres cold water in a saucepan large enough to fit chicken. Bring to the boil over high heat, add halved chicken and return to the boil. Skim off any impurities that rise to the surface. Reduce heat to low-medium and simmer for 10 minutes. Turn off heat, cover with a lid and leave for 50 minutes (the residual heat will continue to cook the chicken). 2 Meanwhile, prepare an ice-water bath with 2 litres iced water. Taking care, remove chicken gently so as to not tear the skin then submerge in ice-water bath for 20 minutes. Strain stock through a fine sieve. Return all but 2 litres to a clean pan and keep hot until ready to use. Once chicken has cooled, remove and chop up as desired, then place in a large deep frying pan. Pour over enough hot stock to just cover chicken and reheat slowly over medium heat until hot and ready to serve (15 minutes). 3 For chilli paste, blend ingredients in a blender to a paste; season with salt.

AMAH’S CHAP CHOY

Mixed vegetable stir-fry SERVES 4 AS PART OF A BANQUET // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 10 MINS

“In Malaysia, vegetables like sugar snap peas and celery are more expensive than meat,” says Khoo. “So this was considered a luxury dish when I was growing up.”

150 gm shiitake mushrooms, halved lengthways 3 stalks celery, cut into 5cm batons 100 gm sugar snap peas, trimmed 1 small carrot, cut into 5cm batons 1 small lotus root (100gm), peeled and sliced (see note) 1 tbsp cornflour 200 ml vegetable stock 60 ml (¼ cup) vegetable oil, plus extra to drizzle 1 red onion, finely chopped

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 3 20 50 2 2 1½

small red capsicum, seeded and finely chopped garlic cloves, finely grated gm dried black fungus, soaked in boiling water, drained gm black fungus, trimmed tsp caster sugar tsp dashi powder tbsp Shaoxing wine or to taste

4 For chicken rice, rinse rice three times or until water runs clear. Heat a heavybased frying pan over low-medium heat. Add oil and reserved chicken fat and cook, stirring occasionally, until fat is rendered (8 minutes). Using tongs discard any unrendered pieces. Increase heat to medium-high and add onion, garlic and lemongrass and cook, stirring frequently, until deep golden (7 minutes). Bring 1 litre chicken poaching liquid to the boil in a large saucepan, stir in rice and reduce heat to low-medium and add ½ tsp salt. Cover with lid and simmer gently until liquid is absorbed and rice cooked (12 minutes). When ready to serve, transfer to a serving bowl. 5 Transfer reheated chicken from stock to a deep platter. Pour over as much soy blend as desired and scatter with coriander and spring onions. Serve with chicken rice and chilli paste on the side. Note Double the soy blend recipe so you can store and use as desired.

1 Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil. Blanch shiitake, celery, sugar snap peas, carrot and lotus separately for 10-20 seconds each. Drain, refresh in iced water and drain again. 2 Stir cornflour and 50ml cold stock in a small bowl to form a paste. 3 Heat oil in a large wok over high heat. Add onion, capsicum and garlic and stir-fry until vegetables begin to soften (2 minutes). Add blanched vegetables and fungus; toss to combine. Add sugar, dashi and remaining stock, and bring to the boil. Stir in cornflour paste and cook, stirring and tossing continuously, until thickened (5 minutes). Remove from heat and stir in Shaoxing and season to taste. 4 To serve, place in a bowl and drizzle with extra oil. Note Lotus root is available from Asian supermarkets. If unavailable, substitute frozen sliced lotus root. ●

Hainanese chicken

Recipes DOMINIC SMITH Photography JAMES MOFFATT Styling LUCY TWEED

Braised bitter greens pot pies

o f p e f i i e L

Chicken, leek and black garlic pithivier

Golden and crisp, nothing says comfort quite like a freshly baked pie.

Chicken, leek and black garlic pithivier SERVES 4-6 // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 1 HR 15 MINS (PLUS COOLING)

This classic French pie hails from the town of Pithiviers and is constructed with two discs of puff pastry and finished with a distinctive pattern. Begin this recipe the day before.

00 gm Desiree potato, 2 peeled and chopped 190 ml pouring cream, warmed 60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil 650 gm chicken thigh fillets, fat trimmed 50 gm butter, chopped 1 leek, white part only, thinly sliced 100 gm flat pancetta, trimmed, cut into lardons 2 black garlic cloves, finely chopped (see note) ¼ cup (loosely packed) tarragon leaves, finely chopped 160 ml (2/3 cup) dry white wine 55 gm plain flour 500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock 60 gm finely grated parmesan 2 sheets frozen puff pastry, defrosted (see note) 1 egg and 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten, for eggwash 1 Place potato in a small saucepan, cover with water and bring to the boil. Cook until tender (35 minutes). Drain and pass potato through a ricer into pan. Add 60ml cream, stir well to combine and season to taste. Cool mixture completely. 2 Meanwhile, heat oil in a large deep frying pan over high heat. Sear chicken, in batches if necessary, turning occasionally until browned all over (6 minutes). Remove from pan and rest on a large plate until needed. 3 Reduce heat to low, add butter, leek, pancetta, garlic and half of the tarragon to the pan, and cook, stirring frequently, until leek is soft but not coloured and pancetta is lightly browned (8 minutes). Increase heat to high and deglaze pan with wine until reduced by three-quarters

(3 minutes). Add flour and stir until combined. Stir in stock and remaining cream, add chicken and bring to a simmer. Reduce heat to low and simmer until chicken is cooked and sauce has thickened; season to taste. Remove chicken from pan and cool slightly. Once cool enough to handle, tear chicken into chunks and return to pan. Stir in parmesan and remaining tarragon, season and refrigerate until cooled. 4 Cut one sheet of pastry into a 25cmdiameter circle, and the second sheet into a 22cm-diameter circle. Cut a 4cm disc from the off-cuts and cut a 2cm hole from the middle to form a ring. Place all pastry on oven trays lined with baking paper and refrigerate until needed. Spread mash in the centre of the 22cm circle leaving a 5cm border then top with chicken mixture and form into an even mound; brush edges of the circle with eggwash then top with second larger pastry circle and press the edges to seal. Cut a 2cm hole in the top of the pithivier and place the 4cm pastry ring over the hole, leaving the holes open to allow for steam to escape while cooking. Brush all over with eggwash and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Repeat brushing, then refrigerate overnight. 5 Preheat oven to 180°C fan-forced. Lightly score the top of the pithivier, then using your knife crimp the edges and bake until golden (40 minutes). Cool slightly before serving. Note Black garlic is available from select delicatessens and supermarkets. We prefer to use Carême puff pastry, which comes in pre-rolled 375gm sheets.

Seafood and fennel pie SERVES 6-8 // PREP TIME 40 MINS // COOK 50 MINS

A range of fish is suitable for this pie, such as blue-eye trevalla, snapper, salmon or pink ling. Avoid mackerel or grenadier as they’re too strongly flavoured.

1 kg Cloudy Bay diamond shell clams, purged (see note) 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 80 gm slightly salted butter, plus extra, melted, for brushing 4 golden shallots, thinly sliced 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 3 fennel bulbs, trimmed, thinly sliced 2 tsp dry-roasted fennel seeds 125 ml (½ cup) dry white wine 70 gm plain flour Pinch of saffron threads 500 ml (2 cups) fish stock 125 ml (½ cup) pouring cream 100 gm finely grated parmesan

2½ tbsp each finely chopped dill, flat-leaf parsley and chervil Finely grated zest of 2 lemons 700 gm large squid hoods, cleaned, cut into thick rings 1 kg blue-eye trevalla fillets, cut into 5cm pieces 12 large green prawns, peeled, heads removed and deveined, tails intact 2 small Desiree potatoes (120gm each), thinly sliced on a mandolin

1 Heat a large heavy-based saucepan over high heat. Add clams to hot dry pan; cover with a lid and cook, shaking the pan until clams just open (4 minutes). Drain over a bowl and discard cooking liquid. Cool, then remove meat from shells; discard shells and squeeze excess liquid from clams. Set aside. 2 Heat oil and butter in a large heavy-based saucepan over high heat. Add shallots, garlic, fennel and seeds and cook, stirring until fennel begins to soften (5 minutes). Deglaze pan with wine and reduce to a syrup. Add flour, and stir continuously for 30 seconds to toast the flour but not colour it. Add saffron with the stock then add cream. Bring to the boil, stirring continuously until thickened (15 minutes). (The sauce should be very thick as the seafood will release a lot of juices during cooking.) Remove from heat and stir in parmesan, herbs and lemon zest. Spoon sauce into a 24cm x 35cm ovenproof dish. Evenly distribute seafood through the sauce. 3 Preheat oven to 200°C fan-forced. Arrange potato slices, slightly overlapping, over seafood. Brush potatoes with extra melted butter and season to taste. Bake until seafood is cooked and potato is lightly golden (30 minutes). Note Cloudy Bay clams are available from select seafood shops. If unavailable, substitute mussels, pipis or vongole. To purge clams, soak in a bowl of cold water for 20 minutes before cooking. ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Braised bitter greens pot pies MAKES 4 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 50 MINS (PLUS COOLING)

Golden shallots cooked until soft and sweet counter the bitterness of the leafy greens. Pictured p94

2 tbsp olive oil 70 gm slightly salted butter, chopped 3 garlic cloves, sliced 1 bunch each silverbeet, green kale and spinach, stalks and leaves separated, stems finely chopped, leaves torn 1 bunch each finely chopped dill and flat-leaf parsley and stalks 1 tsp each dry-roasted cumin, coriander and fennel seeds, crushed, plus extra, for scattering Pinch each of ground allspice and ground cinnamon 2½ tbsp plain flour 375 ml vegetable stock Rind of 2 lemons, plus 2½ tbsp juice or to taste 150 gm firm ricotta, drained, crumbled 150 gm soft goat’s cheese, crumbled 150 gm haloumi, drained, grated 1 large zucchini, cut into 5mm pieces 2 sheets frozen puff pastry, defrosted (see note p96) 1 egg and 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten, for eggwash CARAMELISED SHALLOTS 2 tbsp olive oil 70 gm slightly salted butter 10 golden shallots, cut into thin wedges 2 tsp caster sugar 2 tsp Sherry vinegar

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

1 For caramelised shallots, heat oil and butter in a heavy-based non-stick frying pan over medium heat. Add shallots and stir frequently until beginning to colour (6 minutes). Scatter over sugar and stir until caramelised (8 minutes). Stir in vinegar, season to taste, and remove from heat. 2 For filling, heat oil and butter in a large wide stockpot or saucepan over medium-high heat. Add garlic, stalks from greens and spices, and cook, stirring occasionally, until stalks begin to soften (5 minutes). Reduce heat to medium, add leaves and half the herbs, in batches if necessary, and cook, stirring until wilted. Scatter over flour and stir for 2 minutes. Gradually stir in stock and cook until liquid has thickened and coats the wilted leaves, and season to taste (5 minutes). 3 Remove from heat, stir in remaining herbs, lemon rind and juice, cheeses, zucchini and caramelised shallots, season to taste and toss to combine. Divide mixture among four 250ml (10cm wide) heatproof dishes. Set aside to cool slightly. Preheat oven to 180°C fan-forced. 4 Meanwhile, cut four 12cm-diameter rounds from the pastry (or large enough to fit top of dishes). Top each dish with pastry, pressing gently to seal. Brush with eggwash and freeze for 15 minutes. Scatter with extra spices and salt flakes, and bake until golden and puffed (30 minutes).

Rhubarb and berry Linzertorte SERVES 8-10 // PREP TIME 30 MINS // COOK 35 MINS (PLUS RESTING, COOLING)

In this wonderfully buttery, crumbly pastry we’ve used almond meal. You could also use hazelnut meal to the same effect.

40 gm butter, chopped 300 gm rhubarb stalks, trimmed and cut into 6cm lengths (halved lengthways if thick) 250 gm strawberries, hulled and halved 50 gm each caster sugar and brown sugar 80 gm (1/4 cup) strawberry jam 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 40 gm cornflour 125 gm raspberries, plus extra to serve Vanilla bean ice-cream, to serve PASTRY

175 120 3 250 150 2 ¼ 1

gm softened butter gm icing sugar, sifted Finely grated rind of 1 orange egg yolks gm (12/3 cups) plain flour gm almond meal tsp ground cinnamon tsp ground cloves tsp baking powder

1 For pastry, beat butter, sugar and rind in an electric mixer until pale and fluffy (5 minutes), then add yolks, one at a time, beating until just incorporated. Add remaining sifted ingredients and mix until just combined. Divide pastry into two-third and one-third portions, shaping each into a log, then enclose in plastic wrap. Refrigerate until firm (2 hours).

2 Meanwhile, heat butter in a frying pan over medium heat. Add rhubarb and strawberries, and cook, stirring gently until juices start to release. Scatter over sugars and stir until dissolved. Cover pan with a cartouche, and cook until fruit is almost tender but still holds its shape (5 minutes). Drain fruit over a bowl. Return cooking juices to pan with jam and vanilla. Stir cornflour and 60ml water to a slurry then whisk into the pan. Cook, whisking continuously over low-medium heat until mixture boils and thickens. Combine thickened cooking juices with fruit in the bowl, then refrigerate to chill. 3 Roll out large portion of pastry on baking paper to a 3mm-thick 16cm x 40cm rectangle. Place pastry into a greased 10.5cm x 34.5cm rectangular loose-based tart tin. Trim excess pastry. Roll out remaining pastry on baking paper to a 3mm-thick 16cm x 28cm rectangle. Freeze tart case and pastry rectangle until required. 4 Preheat oven to 170°C fan-forced. Fill tart shell with fruit mixture and raspberries. Using a fluted pastry wheel, cut pastry rectangle into 1cm-wide strips. Place strips in a lattice pattern over fruit. Bake tart for 35 minutes, covering top with baking paper if over-browning. Cool tart before serving with ice-cream and extra raspberries. ➤

Kolokithopita SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 35 MINS // COOK 40 MINS (PLUS COOLING)

This spectacular Greek pie is far simpler to make than it looks. A mixture of spiced cabbage and pumpkin is rolled between delicate layers of filo then coiled in the pan.

1 25 ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil 1 large leek, white part only, thinly sliced (about 500gm) 3 garlic cloves, crushed 3 tsp baharat (see note) 400 gm peeled butternut pumpkin, coarsely grated 375 gm Savoy cabbage, shredded 55 gm (1/3 cup) currants 2 tbsp each finely chopped mint, oregano and flat-leaf parsley 150 gm (1 cup) cooked long-grain white rice Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 14 sheets filo pastry Poppy and sesame seeds, for scattering Tzatziki, to serve

1 Heat 60ml oil in a large frying pan over medium heat and cook leek, garlic and baharat until leek starts to soften (5 minutes). Add pumpkin and cook for 3 minutes, then add cabbage and cook for a further 5 minutes or until vegetables are soft. Stir in currants, herbs, rice and zest, then set aside to cool. 2 Preheat oven to 180°C fan-forced. Grease a 25cm springform tin. Divide filling into seven portions. Brush one sheet of pastry with a little of the remaining oil and top with a second sheet. Place one portion of filling lengthways, in a thin line, along pastry edge and roll pastry to enclose filling. Starting at the centre of the tin, carefully

form the pastry roll, seam-side down, into a coil. Repeat with remaining pastry sheets, a little more oil and the filling portions, joining each roll to the end of the last one and coiling it around until the base of the tin is covered. Brush top with remaining oil. 3 Bake pie for 35 minutes then scatter with poppy and sesame seeds and bake for a further 10 minutes or until golden. Serve with tzatziki on the side. Note After unwrapping filo pastry in step 2, cover any sheets you aren’t using immediately with baking paper, then a damp tea towel to prevent drying out. Baharat is available from Middle Eastern grocers and herbies.com.au

Beef rendang pie MAKES 6 // PREP TIME 35 MINS // COOK 2 HRS 15 MINS (PLUS COOLING)

When cooked low and slow, beef cheeks become fall-apart tender, making them the perfect filling for these chunky curry-flavoured pies.

80 ml (1/3 cup) vegetable oil 1 kg beef cheeks, trimmed, cut into 3cm pieces 2 red onions, finely chopped 4 garlic cloves, sliced 2 tsp finely grated ginger 1 lemongrass stalk, white part only, finely chopped 370 gm rendang curry paste (see note) 1 tbsp finely grated palm sugar 500 gm Desiree potatoes, peeled, cut into 3cm pieces 500 ml (2 cups) beef stock 400 ml canned coconut cream 35 gm cornflour 200 gm snake beans, cut into 2cm pieces 2 sheets frozen shortcrust pastry, defrosted (see note p96) 2 sheets frozen puff pastry, defrosted (see note) 1 egg and 2 egg yolks, lightly beaten, for eggwash

1 Heat half the oil in a large heavybased saucepan with a lid over high heat. Sear beef cheeks, in batches if necessary, until browned all over. Transfer to a large plate. 2 Preheat oven to 160°C. Add remaining oil to pan and reduce heat to a mediumhigh. Cook onions, garlic, ginger and lemongrass, stirring occasionally, until onion has softened (4 minutes). Stir in paste and sugar until mixture is toasted and fragrant (2 minutes). Stir in potatoes and beef, add 375ml stock and coconut cream, season to taste and bring to a simmer, then cover with a cartouche followed by a lid. Transfer to oven and braise until beef is very tender (2 hours). Remove from oven and strain mixture into a separate large saucepan, ensuring all braising liquid is collected. Set beef aside. Place braising liquid over medium heat, stir in combined cornflour and

remaining 125ml stock, until mixture boils and thickens (7 minutes). Combine beef, snake beans and thickened braising liquid in a large bowl and season to taste. Refrigerate until cooled. 3 Increase oven to 180°C fan-forced. Grease six 150ml pie tins. Meanwhile, cut six 15cm rounds from shortcrust pastry and six 12cm rounds from puff pastry. Press shortcrust rounds into pie tins and trim excess pastry. Divide beef mixture between pie tins, brush edges with eggwash, then top with puff pastry rounds, pressing edges together firmly. Brush pies with eggwash, cut small slits in pastry tops and scatter with salt flakes. Refrigerate for 15 minutes. Bake until golden and pastry is cooked (40 minutes). Note Instead of beef cheeks, you can use round steak, chuck, brisket or rump. Rendang paste is available from Asian grocers or specialty food shops. . ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

101

Miso caramel apple pie SERVES 8-10 // PREP TIME 45 MINS // COOK 1 HR (PLUS RESTING, COOLING)

The trick to great pastry is to handle it as little as possible. If at any stage you find the pastry is too soft, transfer to a tray and refrigerate to firm up before continuing. 11 golden delicious apples (1.6kg), peeled, cored and cut into 3cm-thick wedges 155 gm brown sugar 2½ tbsp white miso paste Finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon 2 tsp ground cinnamon 50 gm demerara sugar, plus extra, for scattering SAKE PASTRY 200 gm butter, diced into 1cm cubes, chilled in freezer for 15 minutes 350 gm plain flour 80 gm caster sugar 1 egg, separated, yolk reserved, eggwhite lightly beaten 1 tbsp chilled sake MISO CARAMEL SAUCE 160 gm reserved apple syrup 3 tsp white miso paste 60 gm brown sugar 60 ml (¼ cup) pouring cream 1 For filling, place apples, sugar, miso, lemon rind and juice, cinnamon and a pinch of salt in a large saucepan and stir to combine. Cover with a lid and cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until apples are tender but retain their shape (12 minutes). Set aside to cool, then strain. Reserve syrup, you should have about 160gm. 2 Meanwhile, for sake pastry, pulse butter, flour and sugar in a food processor until butter is sandy in texture. Whisk yolk, sake and 1 tbsp iced water together in a small bowl to combine, and then add to the flour mixture, pulsing just until the mix holds when pressed between two fingers. You may need to

add more iced water if dough is a little dry. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work bench and bring together with the heel of your hand. Divide in half, flatten each into a 12cm disc, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate to rest (1 hour). 3 Preheat oven to 200°C fan-forced and grease the base and side of a 22.5cm, 3cm-deep pie dish. Stand pastry at room temperature for 10 minutes, then place one disc between 2 sheets of baking paper and roll to a 30cm round; refrigerate. Roll remaining disc to a 26cm round; refrigerate. 4 Line prepared pie dish with the 30cm round of pastry and refrigerate (10 minutes). Fill pastry case with apple filling, then gently lift the pastry lid on top. Trim pastry to a little beyond the rim of the dish, then press and crimp the edges together. Brush the pie top with eggwhite and sprinkle liberally with extra demerara sugar then cut a few 5cm slits in the top. 5 Transfer pie to oven, bake for 10 minutes, then reduce temperature to 180°C and bake, rotating the dish halfway through cooking, until pie is deep golden brown (50 minutes). Cool slightly before serving. 6 Meanwhile, for miso caramel, place reserved apple syrup in a small saucepan over medium-high heat with all the ingredients. Bring to the boil, stirring continuously with a whisk, then simmer until slightly thickened (6 minutes). 7 Serve pie drizzled with miso caramel. Note The sake in the pastry makes it light but still crisp. If golden delicious are unavailable, substitute Granny Smith. ●

The trick to great pastry is to handle it as little as possible. If the pastry is too soft, refrigerate to firm up.

Green pepper and pistachio risotto

106

Photography ISSY CROKER

British cook and author ANNA JONES shares comforting recipes that are also good for the earth in her latest book, One: Pot, Pan, Planet.

Al l in on e

hen I started writing this book in late 2018, the world was a different place. But now we are at a turning point, in a moment of crisis and great opportunity. And while food and cooking, for me, are absolutely about the joy and the connection and beauty of sharing a meal, I feel now it’s time to stress the changes we need to make. I want to make it clear that how we eat can actually help to shift the world we live in. Our food system has the single biggest impact on the climate. It affects every inch of our planet and every creature on it. If we want to help slow, and one day (hopefully) begin to reverse climate change, it is widely agreed that the most powerful thing we can do is eat fewer animals and more plants. Food is the one thing we all have in common. It’s an important thing to focus on, inform ourselves about and celebrate. We need to bring some connection and kindness back into the way we support our farmers and those who grow and harvest our food, the way we shop, and the way we store, prepare and waste food. It is all a web of infinite connection. Let’s put kindness and joy at the heart of how we cook and eat.

Green pepper and pistachio risotto SERVES 4

“This risotto is unusual, vibrant and full of the deep, but somehow lively flavours of Sicily, which I adore,” says Anna Jones. “If you can get them, the small Turkish green peppers are best.” Pictured p104 FOR THE PESTO

4 green peppers or 6 smaller Turkish green peppers 75 gm shelled pistachios, toasted and coarsely chopped 1 clove garlic, peeled Juice of 1 lemon 100 ml extra-virgin olive oil Large bunch basil (50gm), leaves picked, plus extra for serving 30 gm grated Pecorino or Parmesan FOR THE RISOTTO

1 -1.5 litres vegetable stock 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 white onion, finely chopped 2 cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped 400 gm arborio rice 200 ml white wine 50 gm butter or vegan butter

1 To make pesto, char peppers over an open flame on the stove or under the grill until skin is black all over. Remove and place in a bowl with a plate or lid on top and allow to cool. Once cool, peel off charred skin and discard, then tear peppers into pieces and remove seeds. Place peppers into a food processor, add toasted pistachios (reserving a small amount for serving), garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, basil leaves, and half the cheese and blend to a smooth, vivid green pesto. Add a little water if it’s too thick. 2 To make risotto, pour vegetable stock into a small saucepan and place over low heat to warm. 3 Place a large saucepan over medium heat, add olive oil and onion and fry for 10 minutes or until soft and sweet. Add

garlic and cook for a further 2 minutes. Turn heat up to high, add rice and a little more oil if needed and toast grains on all sides for 5 minutes or until they turn a little translucent. Add white wine and allow to evaporate, stirring as it does. Add a ladleful of the hot stock and stir until it evaporates, then continue this process until all the stock is used. This should take about 15-20 minutes. The risotto is perfectly cooked when the rice is al dente – break a grain of rice with your finger and you should be able to see a tiny fleck of white in the middle. 4 Add butter and half the remaining cheese, season with salt and pepper to taste and stir through most of the pesto, then put a lid on the risotto and allow it to sit for 5 minutes. If the risotto looks a little thick, add a little more hot stock or boiling water. 5 Divide into 4 portions, top with remaining pesto and cheese, reserved basil leaves and chopped pistachios.

Blackened corn salad with pickled chilli and herbs SERVES 4

“I use one of my all-time favourite ingredients here, pickled chillies, which add an instant pop of heat, acidity and sweetness – a great foil for the smoky corn,” says Jones.

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 4 corn on the cob, or about 450gm frozen corn 2 small golden shallots, peeled and very thinly sliced Juice of 2 limes 4 tablespoons Greek or vegan yoghurt Large bunch coriander, roughly chopped PICKLED CHILLI

100 ml white wine vinegar 1 tbsp caster sugar 4 red chillies, sliced

1 To make pickled chilli, combine vinegar and sugar in a small saucepan over low heat and stir until dissolved. Add chillies and set aside to pickle for at least an hour. 2 If using fresh corn, use a sharp knife to slice kernels from cob. If using frozen, cook in boiling water for 2-3 minutes until tender then allow to cool. 3 Place shallots in a small bowl with lime juice and a pinch of salt then scrunch a few times with your hands. Set side until required. 4 Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add corn kernels and a pinch of salt then cook, undisturbed, for 3 minutes or until well

charred underneath. Toss and cook for a 3-4 minutes until corn is charred all over. 5 Drain pickled chillies then add to shallot mixture with yoghurt and 3 tbsp olive oil. Season then mix to combine. 6 Place corn in a large bowl with half the coriander. Pour over shallot dressing and toss together, adding more salt if needed. Top with remaining coriander. Serving suggestions Serve this corn salad with crumbled feta and flatbread; on top of a baked sweet potato with more yoghurt or sour cream; in corn tacos with black beans; or on top of sourdough toast with a poached egg. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

107

“This lemony, coconut and herb-topped stew has a freshness I love, but it is hearty and filling at the same time.”

Lemon, chickpea and green herb stew

Baked dhal with tamarind-glazed sweet potato

SERVES 4-6

SERVES 4

“This lemony, coconut and herb-topped stew has a freshness I love, but it is hearty and filling at the same time,” says Jones. “If you have leftovers, remove the lemon halves before storing, otherwise the flavour will become too intense.”

“In every book I write there is a recipe that I love a little more than the rest. I don’t feel good about it. Kind of like having a favourite child, no one wants to admit it. And this is it. Luckily, I only have one actual child,” says Jones.

4 tbsp coconut oil Bunch spring onions, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, chopped Small bunch coriander, stalks chopped and leaves picked 2 tsp ground turmeric 1.2 kg tinned chickpeas, drained and rinsed 200 ml hot vegetable stock 400 ml coconut milk 2 lemons, zested and cut in half 2 golden shallots, peeled, halved and very thinly sliced TO SERVE

Large handful green herbs, leaves picked and torn (I use a mixture of mint, basil and coriander), and dried chilli flakes (optional) 1 Place a large saucepan over medium heat, then add 1 tbsp coconut oil, spring onions, garlic and coriander stalks. Cook for 5 minutes, or until spring onion is soft and sweet. 2 Add turmeric and cook for a further 2 minutes to toast and release the oils. Add chickpeas, stock, coconut milk, and lemon zest. Squeeze in lemon juice then add lemon halves. 3 Bring to a boil and simmer over medium-low heat for 20 minutes until slightly thickened and a vivid yellow. 4 In a separate frying pan, heat 3 tbsp coconut oil and fry shallots over medium-low heat until golden and slightly crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towel. 5 Once stew is ready, scoop out lemon halves, stir through most of the herbs and serve topped with crispy shallots, remaining herbs and chilli flakes (if using).

50 gm split red lentils 2 2 tbsp coconut oil 1 onion, peeled and finely chopped Large thumb-sized piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 tsp cumin seeds 10 cardamom pods 1 tsp ground turmeric Pinch of dried chilli flakes 400 gm tinned chopped tomatoes 750 ml hot vegetable stock 400 ml coconut milk 750 gm sweet potatoes 3 tbsp tamarind paste 2 limes, halved 1 Preheat oven to 200°C. Wash lentils in cold water, until water is no longer milky, then leave to drain. 2 Warm oil in a wide, shallow ovenproof pan over medium heat, add chopped

onion and cook for 10 minutes until soft and pale gold. Add ginger, garlic and cumin; stir and cook for 2-3 minutes. 3 Meanwhile, crack open cardamom pods to remove seeds then grind to a coarse powder. Add to onion mixture with turmeric and chilli flakes. Season with black pepper and 1/2 tsp of flaky sea salt, stirring for a minute or two. 4 Add tomatoes, lentils, stock and coconut milk then bring to a simmer for a few minutes until everything has come together. You don’t need to cook the lentils here, as they will cook under the sweet potato in the oven. 5 While lentils simmer, cut sweet potatoes into long slices about 5mm thick. Season, then place on top of lentils to form a lid (don’t worry if the first few sink), brush top with tamarind paste and bake for 30-40 minutes until lentils are tender and sweet potatoes are crisp. Finish with a squeeze of lime. ➤

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

109

Corn and cauliflower chowder SERVES 4

“In a chowder, corn is usually paired with potatoes to add creaminess and body, but I use cauliflower instead – it keeps the soup light. The often-wasted cauliflower leaves are crisped up in the pan, too, like kale,” says Jones.

2 tbsp olive oil 1 leek, washed, trimmed and thinly sliced 4 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced ½ large cauliflower (about 500gm) cut into small florets, leaves shredded Kernels from 4 corn on the cob or 500gm tinned or frozen kernels 400 ml coconut milk 1 tsp vegetable stock powder or ½ stock cube Juice of ½ lemon TOPPING

1 green chilli, thinly sliced 4 spring onions, sliced Bunch basil Handful roasted unsalted peanuts, roughly crushed Olive oil, for frying and to serve

1 Heat olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add leek and a good pinch of salt, then cook for 5-10 minutes until soft and sweet. Add garlic and cook for 2-3 minutes. 2 Add cauliflower florets, keeping the leaves for later. Add all but a handful of the corn, a pinch of salt, coconut milk, stock powder and 800ml hot water. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 20 minutes until the cauliflower is soft and the soup has thickened a little. 3 Blend with a hand-held blender until it’s about half liquid and half still textured. Add a little lemon juice and a good grind of black pepper. Taste and add more salt, pepper and lemon as needed.

4 Heat a frying pan over medium heat, add a little oil and then remaining corn, sliced green chilli and spring onions, along with shredded cauliflower leaves. Cook until corn is charred and leaves deep green and wilted. Serve on top of soup with torn basil, a scattering of peanuts and a drizzle of olive oil. ●

This extract from One: Pot, Pan, Planet by Anna Jones (Harper Collins; $49.99) has been reproduced with minor GT style edits.

F r o m SY R I A

Lamb kebabs with khebzeh hamra

116

Labneh

114

In his book Sumac, Syrian-born author ANAS ATASSI shares family recipes and the cultural traditions that helped shape him. Photography JEROEN VAN DER SPEK

w i t h L OV E

“Labneh is sold ready to eat in every supermarket in Syria,” says Anas Atassi. “Syrian labneh is fresher and has a more citrusy taste than Western varieties of thickened yoghurt. So, if you buy pre-thickened yoghurt, you may want to add some lemon juice to it.”

500

gm Greek yoghurt Juice of ½ lemon Extra-virgin olive oil, to serve Dried mint, Aleppo pepper, za’atar, oregano, dried thyme, nigella seeds or sumac, to garnish

1 Mix together yoghurt and lemon juice, and season with salt to taste. Line a fine sieve with a double layer of cheesecloth or with a muslin cloth. You could also use a clean cotton tea towel. Set sieve over a bowl to catch drained liquid. 2 Spoon yoghurt into lined sieve. Gather up the edges of the cloth or towel then twist to form a tight bundle and knot the ends. Refrigerate yoghurt in the sieve (including the bowl to catch any liquid) for at least 12 hours. Once it has drained the labneh should be the consistency of cream cheese. Spoon labneh into a serving bowl, drizzle with olive oil and garnish with your toppings of choice.

Anas Atassi with his mother.

s a child I was fascinated by TV cooking shows and would spend hours watching them with my sister. It didn’t matter if the chef was Italian, Asian or Middle Eastern – there we were, glued to the television set. And, whenever I got the chance, I would sit in the kitchen to watch my mother cook, regaling her with my made-up stories in the hopes of being allowed to stay there just a little bit longer. But it wasn’t until I left home for my university studies that my love for cooking turned to Syrian cuisine. I missed those flavours; I missed the hospitality of my parents’ home. So, in my attempts to stay connected to my home, my parents and my homeland, I started to prepare my favourite foods.

It turned out that my culinary daydreaming, helped along with my mother’s recipes, resulted in a tangible, edible way of reminiscing. I would send my mother pictures and she would return them with comments. It was the physical distance that sparked my desire to understand the foundations of the traditional food of Syria, a desire that only grew greater. Even so, I am not a chef. The recipes I make are my mother’s recipes. And her recipes are, in large part, inherited from her mother. They’ve been passed down through time; they’ve been changed according to which ingredients were available in various countries and modified to fit the tastes of family and friends. They retain the heart of our family life in Syria – a family life shared by the majority of Syrians before the war cast us out and over the whole world.

PHOTOGRAPHY RANIA KATAF.

Labneh

Walnut baklava MAKES 30-40

“Baklava is the most famous pastry from the Arabic-speaking world and is popular worldwide, as it is in Syria, thanks to the Ottomans,” says Atassi. “We always have a box of baklava in the house, ready to bring out if someone comes over for coffee.”

300 75 50 2 20 150 25

gm (2 cups) walnuts gm (scant ½ cup) raisins gm (¼ cup) brown sugar tsp ground cinnamon sheets filo pastry gm butter, melted gm pistachios, ground into a powder, to serve

ATTER SYRUP

50 2 440 1 1

ml (1 cup) of water grams (2¼ cups) of sugar tbsp of rose or orange blossom water Pinch of grated lemon or orange zest tbsp lemon or orange juice

1 Preheat oven to 180°C. 2 In a food processor, grind half of the walnuts with raisins, brown sugar and ground cinnamon until it forms a thick paste. Add remaining walnuts then pulse a few times so they distribute evenly through the paste but are still chunky.

3 Cut sheets of filo pastry to fit the size of a rectangular cake pan (approximately 20cm x 30cm x 4cm). 4 Grease bottom and sides of pan with melted butter and line the bottom of the pan with 8 filo pastry sheets, brushing each sheet with melted butter before layering the next sheet on top. This will help them stick together, and will help them crisp up while baking in the oven. 5 Spoon half of the walnut filling onto filo base. Spread paste with the back of a spoon, being careful to not tear pastry. 6 Layer 4 more sheets of filo pastry onto the filling, brushing butter between each sheet. Spoon remaining filling on top of the final filo sheet and spread out evenly. Repeat layering with remaining 8 sheets of filo, brushing butter between each. 7 Brush remaining melted butter on top then cut baklava into desired shape (squares, rectangles, or diamonds). Bake for 20-25 minutes or until golden-brown.

8 Meanwhile, make atter syrup. Combine water and sugar in a small saucepan over medium heat; stir until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat then add rose or orange blossom water, lemon or orange zest and juice. Set aside to cool. 9 Remove baklava from of oven and immediately pour half of the atter syrup over baklava. Let the syrup soak for 15 minutes then pour remaining syrup over. 10 Sprinkle baklava with pistachio powder and allow to cool completely. ➤

Mum’s famous beetroot salad SERVES 4

Lamb kebabs with khebzeh hamra SERVES 6

“The seasoning for this meat dish is simple – a few mild spices and some parsley – so choose the best quality minced lamb you can find,” says Atassi. “An open fire gives the most flavourful result, but you can also grill the kebabs in the oven.” Pictured p112 FOR THE KEBABS

00 5 3 1 1 1 1 ½

gm minced lamb garlic cloves, finely chopped bunch flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped tsp paprika tsp ground allspice tsp ground black pepper tsp ground nutmeg

FOR THE VEGETABLE SKEWERS

4 red onions, quartered 3 green capsicum, cut into large pieces 500 gm tomatoes, halved FOR THE KHEBZEH HAMRA

6 flatbreads 6 tbsp of capsicum or tomato paste

1 To make kebabs, combine all kebab ingredients in a bowl and knead with your hands until everything is mixed evenly. To test the flavour, brown some of the mixture in a frying pan. Taste and add more spices if needed. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour. 2 Divide lamb mix into 6 balls of equal size. Form each ball into a flat kebab by rolling it around a skewer. Do this with moistened hands to keep the meat from sticking to your fingers. Refrigerate kebabs until ready to grill. 3 Preheat grill. Skewer remaining vegetables in any order you like. Grill kebabs and skewers for 5 minutes on each side or until cooked through. 4 Brush flatbreads with a spoonful of tomato or capsicum paste, cut in quarters and serve with kebabs.

“My mother is crazy about beetroot, even if the rest of her family (talking about you, Dad) doesn’t share her enthusiasm. Nevertheless, my mother would treat herself to this salad once in a while, and, not forgetting my father, would cobble together something else for him to eat,” says Atassi.

00 5 2 200 50

gm beetroot, cooked, thinly sliced red onions, sliced into thin rings gm baby spinach gm (½ cup) walnuts, roughly chopped

FOR THE DRESSING

2 2 200

garlic cloves, minced tbsp apple cider vinegar Zest or juice of 1 lemon ml extra-virgin olive oil

1 To make dressing, combine all ingredients in a bowl. Season to taste. 2 In a large bowl or serving dish, toss beetroot, onion and spinach with dressing. Sprinkle over walnuts and serve immediately. ●

This extract from Sumac by Anas Atassi (Murdoch Books; $49.99) has been reproduced with minor GT style edits.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

117

GET THE DIGITAL EDITION OF

12 DIGITAL ISSUES

FOR ONLY $19.99 SAVE 72%

Visit magshop.com.au/p/gtd or call 136 116 and quote X207GTD Savings based on single-issue digital edition price of $5.99. Offer available until 31st December 2021. If you do not want your information provided to any organisation not associated with this promotion, please indicate this clearly when you subscribe. For terms and conditions visit magshop.com.au/gtd and for our Privacy Notice visit aremedia.com.au/privacy/ Apple, the Apple logo and iPad are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. Subscription auto-renews every 12 months at $19.99 unless cancelled.

TRAVEL M AY

Culture trip

The art of respectful rebellion, exploring Ballarat’s old-world charm, W Melbourne, and aboard the Indian Pacific.

Central Square, Ballarat, Vic

122

PHOTOGRAPHY PARKER BLAIN.

The art of... respectful rebellion Heritage is far too important to take seriously, writes ANNA HART.

The art of travel

ILLUSTRATION GETTY IMAGES.

Anna is a travel and lifestyle journalist, and author of the travel memoir Departures. @annadothart

evolving what needs to be evolved and celebrating eritage is the history we choose not what is great just as it is. to leave behind. This makes heritage I have to admit that in the past I used the as much about progress as it is about words “history” and “heritage” interchangeably preservation. It also makes heritage on my travels. It seemed to me that “heritage” a hell of a lot more fun to think about than the was mainly used by travel journalists trying to word might sound. Because heritage isn’t really avoid repeating the word “history” twice in one about staid old traditions, or keeping things sentence. And it certainly came in handy to “as they were”. It’s not about idealising the past. a hopeless romantic and history-obsessed traveller Humans are fickle creatures with really bad like myself. I am easily seduced by grande dame memories. We only bother to preserve the bits hotels, and will choose a hotel with history and of the past that are valuable and desirable to the character over sleek modern luxury any day. present. Whether we’re talking about a hand-meWhen I’m in San Francisco, I’ll drink a bitter down family recipe for steak pie, an iconic hotel or filter coffee at the bar in the Vesuvio Café – next the cultural identity of an entire nation, heritage is to the City Lights bookstore beloved by the Beat the stuff that survives because it remains relevant. poets – even though every local knows that I have a good friend, Aleksandar, who The Coffee Movement around the corner grinds is a Bulgarian chef working in London. Saint Frank, the namedroppable He experiments with traditional local roastery. Balkan dolma, wrapping citrusTraditions and I will wander dreamily around spiced chestnuts in Korean kimchi Parisian districts like Montmartre cabbage. To a purist, I suppose this customs that would be sacrilege – but nobody become stagnant or the Marais that haven’t been affordable to actual artists for decades, has more reverence for traditional or irrelevant get still able to convince myself that Balkan cooking than Aleks, and left behind, and I’m in the heart of bohemian Paris. nobody is working harder to revive Believe me, I care a great deal interest in it. He just believes in we forget we about a destination’s history, and its remixing the cuisine he loves, to ever had them. cultural and culinary identity. But if make it more exciting and relevant there’s one thing I’ve learned from to a new generation of food lovers. observing how different nations So who is the best custodian of process their history, and interact with the past, a traditional cuisine: the purist chef who refuses to it’s that the traditions and customs that become tamper with a traditional recipe? Or the innovator stagnant or irrelevant get left behind, and we forget who introduces a dish or technique to a new we ever had them. Traditions and institutions generation of cooks and diners? need to be played with, and sometimes need to be All the international chefs that I know who questioned, or we risk losing them. And so gentle have strong ties to their national heritage have one rebellion is a mark of respect. thing in common: a playful, pioneering – and With my European eyes, I’ve always admired almost punk – spirit. These grateful gastronomic this spirit of healthy rebellion in Australia and patriots believe that tradition is be played with, New Zealand – I often think Britain could learn not obeyed. Perhaps they’ve tinkered with classic a lot by looking to countries that are less precious recipes, finding plant-based alternatives to meat, and po-faced about their history. This is how we’ll or throwing in flavours from different culinary preserve the heritage worth preserving, and ditch traditions. Perhaps they’ve toyed with the the history that is best left behind. presentation, serving truffle-topped risotto out I’ve come to see that landmark hotels, of food trucks. Perhaps they’ve messed around restaurants, shops, concert halls and museums with cooking methods, positioning fire pits at only become part of a country’s heritage by being the centre of inner-city restaurants. You get the challenged, economically or ideologically, or both. idea: they play. And when it comes to heritage, They might not need to change – many will stand playing is a serious business. Because respectful up serenely to the scrutiny of successive generations rebellion is what keeps traditions alive. It’s about – but they need to be willing to play.  continually editing the past, challenging traditions, G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

121

Ballarat is having a moment with its mix of old-world charm and vibrant new places to eat, drink and stay, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.

CITY OF

GOLD

Photography PARKER BLAIN

he entrance hall of the Art Gallery of Ballarat is a riot of colour, the vast wall above its impressive timber and wrought-iron staircase salon hung with exuberant modern art that hums and pulses with energy. According to director Louise Tegart, who joined Australia’s oldest and largest gallery three years ago and revolutionised the way it displays its lauded collection, the entrance hang is a reaction to the gloom of lockdown. It also perfectly encapsulates what’s happening in Ballarat right now – a joyful, energetic and exciting collision of the old and the new. Victoria’s third largest city, a 90-minute drive from Melbourne, is having a moment. A new generation of creatives and entrepreneurs, supported by an enthusiastic council, have been colonising the marvellous Victorian streetscapes that define this gold rush-era city. An impressive range of places to eat, drink and stay has emerged, backed by a packed calendar of festivals and cultural events (this year’s Ballarat International Foto Biennale is featuring the work of Linda McCartney) and generating a buzz similar to post-MONA Hobart. Little wonder it was named a UNESCO Creative City in 2019. The name Ballarat may loosely translate from the language of the Wadawurrung traditional owners as “resting place” but right now, resting is well down on the list of things to do.

E AT Underbar You’ll need to plan ahead to secure a seat at Underbar. This unmarked, 16-seat dégustation restaurant by former Per Se chef Derek Boath only opens on Friday and Saturday nights and books out months in advance. And so it should. The constantly changing menu ranges from cornbread (straight from the oven) served with whipped sweetcorn soup and maple butter to an exquisite chawanmushi threaded with blue swimmer crab and could hold its own anywhere in Australia. underbar.com.au Pancho Pancho is a Latin American restaurant with a great soundtrack serving sublime fish tacos alongside great tostadas, Mexican sodas and well-constructed Mojitos. Ragazzone Ragazzone, a buzzing vision in millennial pink, puts a unique modern spin on Italian classics, mixing local quinces with mascarpone and burnt butter or teaming silky pumpkin ravioli with slow-cooked beef cheek. ragazzone.com.au Johnny Alloo At Johnny Alloo, named after Ballarat’s first restaurateur, chef Andy Gale (formerly of Melbourne’s Duchess of Spotswood and St Ali) offers the city’s most creative brunch menu. Try to make a decision between the anchovy chilli scrambled eggs or the French toast-based Peachy Boy with fresh and poached local peaches and then consider the Friday and Saturday night-only dinner menu that riffs on modern-Euro bistro food, like pork belly with burnt apple and miso purée. johnnyalloo.com Local producers Producers are also at work in Ballarat, churning out an impressive range of quality goods. At Saltbush Kitchen, Brigid Corcoran, blends Indigenous ingredients like mountain pepper and lemon myrtle into some seriously tasty salts and spice rubs, while Craig McKenzie from Grounded Pleasures crafts drinking chocolate, ethically sourced from worker co-ops in Ghana, Papua New Guinea and elsewhere, with flavoured versions ranging from Sicilian orange to chilli. Keep an eye out for excellent French-style charcuterie from chef Mick Nunn’s Salt Kitchen Charcuterie. saltbushkitchen.com.au; groundedpleasures.com.au; saltkitchen.com.au ➤

124

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Clockwise from left: inside the Art Gallery of Ballarat; spaghetti with pesto, burrata and pecorino at Ragazzone; pastries at L’Espresso; Pancho’s vibrant interior. PREVIOUS PAGES the heritage-listed Art Gallery of Ballarat; coffee at L’Espresso.

DRINK Caffeine hits Ballarat has caught the coffee bug bad. Ground zero for coffee culture in the city is L’Espresso that’s still churning out the good stuff alongside a side hustle of excellent music, much of it on vinyl. Also consider artisan sourdough baker 1816 Bakehouse and Fika run by St Ali alumnus Matt Freeman. 1816.com.au; fikacoffeebrewers.com.au Mitchell Harris Next door to Fika is one of Ballarat’s best bars, Mitchell Harris. Originally designed to be a cellar door for Mitchell Harris Wines, the rustic highceilinged building that once housed a gold rush tent manufacturer, is now a bar/bottle shop/cellar door hybrid with great snacks (tuna ceviche with miso grapefruit dressing is a winner) and a great range of wines that emphasises the local stuff while also venturing into the Old World. mitchellharris.com.au Aunty Jacks Aunty Jacks is a new addition to Ballarat’s repertoire. It’s an eclectically decorated brew pub that serves everything it brews on tap, from classic European-style unfiltered lager to a delicious dark and chewy Vanilla Porter. auntyjacks.com.au The 18th Amendment Bar There’s more old-world charm at The 18th Amendment Bar, a speakeasy-style cocktail bar that taps into Ballarat’s gold rush vibe with the décor but keeps things modern with a range of cocktails that are not too booze-heavy but push the delight and innovation. Try a whisky and apple-juice number called The Boardwalk Empire that arrives in a mini treasure chest filled with smoke. the18thamendmentbar.com.au Roy Hammond At Roy Hammond, there’s Pan-Asian snacks, a young and excited crowd and a seriously impressive range of great-quality booze, with dozens of variations on gin and tequila and a selection of whisky that will make the buffs go weak at the knees. royhammond.com.au Eastern Peake For those after some of the region’s best wine, a 20-minute drive will land you at Eastern Peake for a sit-down tasting in the new glass-walled tasting room with magnificent views and great chat from winemaker Owen Latta. lattavino.com.au ➤

Clockwise from above: Mitchell Harris Wines bar; cocktail hour at The 18th Amendment Bar; The Boardwalk Empire is served in a treasure box at The 18th Amendment Bar. Opposite: Ballarat Town Hall.

S TAY The Provincial Hotel Directly across the road from Ballarat’s train station, The Provincial Hotel is one of the best places to stay in Ballarat right now. It covers all the bases – spacious, well-appointed rooms, great service and a street level café called Lola that’s as good with the coffee and smashed avocado as it is with the oysters, steak, wine and cocktails. A prevailing blue-and-white colour scheme keeps things breezy. It’s also an easy walk from many of the best places to eat and drink. theprovincialballarat.com.au Lyon House Those after stylish, self-contained luxury might opt for Lyon House, a double storey terrace that’s been given an extensive makeover by owners David Cook-Doulton and Martin Shew. The house has an indoor pool and a superb kitchen for those who like to self-cater (a chef can be arranged for those averse to cooking) and sleeps up to seven people in dark and moody luxury. CookDoulton and Shew are also opening a luxury, suite-only hotel in Ballarat in 2022. lascellesballarat.com.au Craig’s Royal Hotel Those after a traditional, Victorian-era Ballarat stay and are fans of the era’s highly patterned wallpaper should check into Craig’s Royal Hotel. Added bonus? Ian Curley (Kirk’s Wine Bar) is the consulting chef in Craig’s Gallery restaurant, bringing his genius for no-nonsense, big-flavoured European food to the light-filled space. craigsroyal.com.au Also Ballarat’s Sanctuary Day Spa provides a wide range of facial and body treatments in a tranquil bush setting. ballaratsanctuary.com.au Those wanting to tap into Ballarat’s long history of being a magnet for artists might consider a workshop at Beck Davies Ceramics. Hands-on workshops include Friday night Clay Dates, where you can have a glass of wine and recreate the potter’s wheel scene from the movie Ghost. beckdaviesceramics.com.au ●

From top: The Provincial Hotel; a quiet corner inside Craig’s Royal Hotel. Opposite: a room with a view at Craig’s Royal Hotel.

128

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Getting there Ballarat is a 90-minute drive from Melbourne.

CHECKING IN

W Hotel, Melbourne We take the guesswork out of local travel with our tips on where to stay, eat, drink and play. This month, GT hits Flinders Lane.

Melbourne, Vic

130

Shiny, bold and unapologetically glamorous, the W Melbourne brings some high voltage razzle dazzle to Flinders Lane, where it is part of the new $1.25 billion Collins Arch development. From the moment you pull into the dark and dramatic driveway and enter the hot pink marble foyer, W Melbourne sets out to seduce guests. Upstairs, the lights are kept low as you make your way to any of the 294 guest rooms, which feature chic, plaid carpets and pops of magenta alongside signature brass cabinetry (which reveals a secret as day turns to night and the lights come on). Upstairs, guests can choose whether to detox or retox on level 14, alternating between the hotel’s gym facilities at FIT and the gold accented pool area, WET, which features a mirrored gold ceiling, DJ booth and poolside bar. Nowhere is more impressive than the hotel’s signature Wow Suites, which really live up to their name. These lush, large, sound-proofed suites are purpose-built to host groups and come complete with dining room tables, where you can call upon a private chef to serve a bespoke feast. The hotel is setting itself up to be a party palace and works the angle hard and well. marriott.com.au

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

408 Flinders Lane, Melbourne, Vic Facilities Prices from $399 per night for a onebedroom suite Spa/Gym Yes Restaurant Yes Free WiFi Yes Concierge 24hr

WORDS JOANNA HUNKIN & JORDAN KRETCHMER.

S T A Y

Quick look

B A R

Clockwise from left: Rock oysters and Martinis at Gimlet; the expansive ACMI foyer; the chic and industrial Wow Suite at the W Hotel; the W’s glam cocktail lounge, Curious. Opposite: luxe gold detailing and panoramic views at WET.

H O P

Checking in

You could easily wile away the night in the W’s dark and glamorous cocktail lounge, Curious, but it would be rude not to head out and experience the full magic of Melbourne and its vibrant nightlife. Hop on a free tram and cruise up Collins Street to Russell Street, where you’ll find Embla’s new rooftop bar and cinema next door to the bustling wine bar. Just follow the signs and don’t get lost in the disused ’70s office space below. Around the corner on Little Collins, you’ll find a treasure trove of wines and spirits at the cute and compact Bijou Bottle Store & Bar. Or for serious sophistication, treat yourself to a classic Gimlet at Andrew McConnell’s latest venture, Gimlet at Cavendish House.

E X P E R I E N C E

E A T

PHOTOGRAPHY SHARYN CAIRNS (GIMLET) & SHANNON McGRATH (ACMI).

The Australian Centre for the Moving Image (ACMI) recently underwent a major revamp, future-proofing itself for the Netflix generation, while continuing to celebrate the art of film production and cinema. One of the most unique new aspects is The Lens, a data card that allows visitors to “collect” their favourite films, artworks or objects, which are then curated into an online collection to view at home. Whether it’s exploring the intricate detail of costumes up close, editing your own supercut of genre-defining moments in film, or getting lost in eclectic video art, ACMI allows you to be both the viewer and the storyteller. acmi.net.au

Breakfast

Lunch

Dinner

You no longer need to venture to Fitzroy to snap up Lune Croissanterie’s laminated luxuries. It’s standing-room only in the CBD outpost, with Lune’s signature selection of buttery beauties lining the polished bench. While the crisp veneer of a classic croissant is always attractive, the ham and gruyère scroll will warm up the chilliest Melbourne morning. lunecroissanterie.com

Karen Martini’s latest venture may be housed within ACMI, but Hero is a star attraction in its own right. Glistening gildas open the show, before a scene-stealing veal tonnato appears (a dish she’s been reworking for more than 20 years). There’s also a gorgeous cavatelli with crab, or a bavette steak with herb-flecked butter and a generous mountain of fries, both decadent ways to fuel up before exploring the rest of the building. heroacmi.com.au

Nods to culinary director Adam D’Sylva’s Indian and Italian heritage play out like a clever duel throughout the menu at Lollo. Will you get ducked up with rich and rollicking red curry; or dabble in round rotolos of baked-to-order lasagne with duck meat and bocconcini? It’s a good time either way, and it’s well worth sticking around for Lollo’s modern take on a tiramisu. May will also welcome the opening of W’s two new eateries: refined Japanese offering Warabi and a casual day-to-night deli and antipasti bar, Culprit. G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

131

Coast The Indian Pacific has been transporting travellers across Australia for 50 years. KARLIE VERKERK climbs aboard for the iconic transcontinental journey.

PHOTOGRAPHY ANDREW GREGORY.

to coast

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

133

he train rocks softly side to side and a rhythmic click-clack echoes through the cabin. I’ve never been hypnotised, nor would I want to be, but I imagine it’s similar to the way I feel as I stare out at the vast nothingness of the Nullarbor Plain. Cruising along at 85 kilometres per hour, small shrubs and Mars-like rocks whiz by as the sunset casts a pink blanket over the barren yet beautiful landscape. We’re aboard the majestic Indian Pacific, travelling across the world’s longest straight stretch of railroad when a man’s voice comes through the cabin speaker. He explains that the word Nullarbor comes from the Latin words “nullus” meaning “nothing” and “arbor” meaning “tree,” which is fitting as I haven’t seen a tree in hours. The only plants that can withstand the harsh conditions out here are hardy shrubs, such as saltbush and bluebush. Impressively, the Nullarbor is just one of 16 natural landscapes showcased during the coast-to-coast crossing that travels from Perth to Sydney (or vice versa) via Adelaide. The languorous three-night, four-day rail journey offers a snapshot of our sunburnt country’s remote and rugged heartland; of a landscape that is difficult to genuinely appreciate any other way. I notice the first geographical shift within an hour of setting off from East Perth Terminal, as we snake north-east through the wine region of Swan Valley, where dense suburbia morphs into sprawling vineyards bordered by blackened bush – a result of recent bushfires. Then, as we roll closer to the gold-mining town of Kalgoorlie in the afternoon, the panorama changes again before my eyes. The earth turns a rich red hue and spindly gum trees sparkle in the afternoon light – the trunks actually look as if they’ve been painted bronze.

The train stops at the remote Western Australian town of Rawlinna. Opposite, from left: the view from the train; Lucy, the town’s wild horse; a time-worn house in Rawlinna. PREVIOUS PAGES The Indian Pacific passes Lake Hart, South Australia.

PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES WANT.

With the landscape changing so rapidly, it’s no surprise that the number-one pastime while aboard the Indian Pacific is to sit back, relax and watch the world go by, literally. The second is napping – a highly encouraged and unavoidable pastime due to the train’s hypnotic effects. Nap for a moment too long though and you may miss a mob of emus trotting towards the horizon or a wedgetailed eagle soaring overhead. Hot tip: dusk is the best time to spot iconic Australian fauna including wallabies, kangaroos and emus. There are wild camels, too. Imported from British India and Afghanistan during the 19th century to assist in railroad construction, the camels have since flourished to the point of being pests. Now more than 100,000 of them roam the plain. After an evening playing animal I spy and exchanging stories with fellow travellers in the lounge bar, we retreat to our cabin and let the rocking motion soothe us to sleep. The following morning, a peachy sunrise leaks through the cracks of the window shades and the tiny town of Rawlinna appears in the distance. When we arrive, we disembark the train and set foot on the dry, dusty earth only to be greeted by a wild horse named Lucy. The owner of a nearby property tells us that Lucy is friendly and can smell the egg and bacon buns from miles away. We eat breakfast and watch the desert come to life while small bonfires crackle in the crisp morning air.

Much like a hotel, while you’re enjoying breakfast a crew member discreetly services your cabin. The mattress magically disappears into the wall and the bedroom transforms into a sitting area complete with a lounge and coffee table. When the bed is down it’s a bit like playing baggage Tetris, so the extra space you gain when it’s stowed is welcome. If at any point during the day you feel like lying down, the crew are more than happy to switch it back. The train stops six times during the journey and at each stop there’s a chance to stretch your legs or take part in an off-train excursion. And trust me, you’ll want to get off and inhale as much fresh outback air as possible. While it is cosy, the train can feel a touch claustrophobic at times. For every three carriages of cabins there is one dining car complete with a casual lounge area. There’s also a tea and coffee station at the end of each cabin for round-the-clock hydration, but navigating the narrow, rickety hallway with a hot beverage in hand takes skill and determination. On the morning of day three, we make it across the seemingly endless expanse of the Nullarbor Plain – 478 kilometres in total – and trundle towards Adelaide. ➤ G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

135

PHOTOGRAPHY JAMES WANT (LANDSCAPE) & JACQUI WAY PHOTOGRAPHY (DISH).

Clockwise from left: lunch onboard the Indian Pacific’s Queen Adelaide Restaurant; inside the Gold Service twin cabin. Opposite: the view from the cabin.

136

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

The landscape is more verdant now, which is a welcome and refreshing transformation. In Adelaide, we have the option of city sightseeing or taking a tour of the famed Central Markets – progressive breakfast included – so we choose the market tour. We wander from aisle to aisle sampling locally made pastries and cheese, while stallholders pack shelves high with the freshest fruit and vegetables, and shoppers zigzag around the market with purpose. Bellies bursting and legs stretched, we hop back on board, settle into a book and try to resist the urge to nap… again. Seven hours, a snooze and a couple of glasses of Bollinger later we arrive in Broken Hill – a quintessential outback town known for its rich mining legacy and thriving art scene. It’s also home to the iconic Palace Hotel, which featured in The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert. After exploring the Regional Art Gallery and its Indigenous art exhibition, we stroll down to the hotel to catch the end of a drag performance put on by two local divas. It’s fun and frivolous and the energy boost we need for the last leg of our rail safari. Throughout the journey, each morning brings a sense of anticipation before the blinds are raised, not knowing where you are or what you’ll see next. On the morning of day four our eyes are met with dramatic peaks shrouded in mist. I hold my coffee cup tight, being careful not to spill any while the train makes sweeping twists and turns through the Blue Mountains. It’s hard to believe that just two days earlier we were crossing one of the country’s most vast and desolate expanses of land. I stare out the window hypnotised once again, as we pass through picturesque Mount Victoria and on to Sydney’s Central Station, our final destination. ●

Booking info The Indian Pacific travels from Perth’s East Perth Terminal to Sydney’s Central Station (and vice versa) via Adelaide. The four-day, three-night transcontinental journey spans 4,352 kilometres and includes stops at Kalgoorlie, Rawlinna, Cook, Adelaide, Broken Hill and the Blue Mountains. For more details, visit journeybeyondrail.com.au

The lan d

k s a a l f o

ISMAT AWAN explores how Darwin became Australia’s home of laksa – and shares where to find the best bowls.

ILLUSTRATION VIVIEN WALSH (LAKSA). PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM NT/DAN MOORE (WANGI FALLS).

140

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

perfect launch pad for chilli oil that sears the palate, while carrying its toppings with ease. It’s intensely flavourful and can contain any combination of fish balls, wontons, tofu, chicken, prawn and a mix of noodles. The toppings are as unique as the makers themselves, who mix tradition with personality. Where most Australians would knock back a coffee in the morning, laksa is known as Darwin’s typical weekend breakfast. For locals, any time is laksa time. And as ex-Lord Mayor Katrina Fong Lim explains, it’s “the ultimate comfort food”. The exact history of how laksa came to the Top End is unclear but locals say it arose from the diversity of its residents and a strong history of sharing food and culture between communities. Locals represent 60 nationalities and 70 ethnic backgrounds in Darwin; embracing each other’s heritage has become an intrinsic part of life in the capital. Being closer to Indonesia than Canberra, Darwin is a true slice – or spoonful in this case – of Asia in Australia. Weekend market culture echoes this, where aisles of fragrant produce hit your nose as scents of the east exude their freshness. Tune your ears and you’ll hear Thai, Cantonese, Filipino, Indonesian and Hindi used interchangeably in the crowd around you. It should come as no surprise then, that you’d sooner find a young mango salad than a sandwich here. The one thing that every market has in common? The long line at the laksa stand.

GUTTER CREDIT

arwin’s iconic heat is perfectly paired with its signature dish: laksa. In many ways, the spicy wonder is emblematic of the city and all that it values: food, culture and community. As the meeting point between the influences of southeast Asia – laksa’s natural habitat – and Australia, the territory’s capital is nothing short of a flavour bomb when it comes to laksa. Locals love it, line up for it and, even in the Top End’s sweltering temperatures, always have room for another bowl. So much so, there’s an annual festival that celebrates all that is laksa, with 2020’s festival hosting nearly 40 stall holders. The further you tuck into it, the more you’ll understand the locals’ cult-like craving. The spicy noodle soup is a true love child – and fusion cooking in action. Each laksa carries flavour notes of its ancestral roots in the Peranakan culture, which came about after Chinese and Indian traders settled in Indonesia, Singapore and Malaysia in the 15th to 17th centuries. There are two basic types of laksa: Assam and curry. Assam laksa is the lighter of the two, as it doesn’t contain coconut milk. Instead, it’s made from fish (mainly snapper, trevally or mullet), torch ginger flower and tamarind. Sour notes are delivered in a broth that balances tang and spice. Curry laksa on the other hand, is what Australian’s usually recall – or hanker for – when they think of the noodle soup. The creamy coconut milk and curry base is the

THE

BOWLS IN D A RW

T ES

PHOTOGRAPHY TOURISM NT/SHAANA MCNAUGHT (DARWIN).

A true Darwin local will tell you there are a number of laksa places you must visit – each being entirely personal and non-negotiable. But much like the number of laksa connoisseurs in Darwin, there is no definitive laksa. Communities have long mixed and matched ingredients, following seasonality and taste. From variants of curry laksa, Assam laksa or a combination of both, there’s something for every taste. So what to pick? Here are three of our favourites to try.

Chok’s Place Jason Chin grew up in the institution that is Chok’s Place. From the days his mother ran the show – making early morning trips to Sunday’s Rapid Creek Market – to completing commercial cookery, he’s been at the helm of the Darwin Galleria hotspot for the last 13 years. Chok’s Place is one for consistent quality. Creating a wondrous stock, or “flavour platform” as Chin says, is the key to a standout laksa. Being awarded winner of the Laksa Festival for the last two years comes as no surprise. Aromatics include curry powder, turmeric, garlic and red chillies, making it a laksa that carries in taste, texture and tang. What makes it unique: The broth is made with fresh, local ingredients creating intense flavour. A perfectly boiled egg tops it all off. Where to get it: Darwin Galleria, 37 Smith St, Darwin When: Monday to Friday 10am–3pm; Saturday 10am–2pm

Mary’s It’s 2.45am and Guo Yang Yei, lovingly known as Mary, is setting up her laksa stall at the longest-standing local market, Parap Village. The sun is yet to rise, it’s dark and the tropical humidity is in full swing. Mary’s first customer arrives around 4am – before the line starts. An aromatic halo forms around Mary’s stall, thanks to a secret recipe that has been tried, tested and perfected over the last 25 years. Distinct characteristics of her laksa include the homemade curry paste, noodles and wontons, everything is “made with heart”, says Mary. What makes it unique: The broth is full-bodied and punchy with a lot of spice. All ingredients are handmade. Where to get it: Parap Village Markets, Parap When: Saturday 8am–2pm

Asian Pot Neon lights mark the spot where Pearl and Sid’s shop stands (as well as the lines that trail out the door). Asian Pot is a place bursting with Singaporean and Malaysian marvels. A story of lineage, Pearl’s mother passed down her prized laksa recipe, which Pearl turned into her own – and is now known for. Making it fresh, daily, for the last 25 years, the à la carte way of cooking is what makes Asian Pot a cut above, with made-to-order dishes that echo flavours of Pearl’s home: Singapore. With a focus on freshness, the stock is made every day, which Pearl notes really “makes the difference”. What makes it unique: The curry paste, made in-house daily, is as fresh as it gets. The noodles are handmade locally and delivered three times a week. Where to get it: 6/21 Knuckey Street, Darwin When: Monday to Friday 10am–2.30pm ●

A G o ur m e t Tr av e lle r p r o m o t i o n

Gourmet shopping They’re the flavours of the month, so put these items at the top of your wish list. 1

Harvey Norman Cooking with variety is no challenge with Miele’s 122 cm Freestanding Cooker in Stainless Steel HR 1956 G. Enjoy the best of both worlds with six gas burners and a griddle plate plus two oven cavities. RRP $32,999, harveynorman.com.au

Westgold Butter Wildly delicious butter crafted on the West Coast of New Zealand, Westgold Butter is made from lush pastures, glorious sunshine, high rainfall and grass-fed, free-range cows. RRP $5, only available at Woolworths.

Coco Republic’s Winter 2021 Collection explores monochromatic and minimalist shapes, featuring clean lines, muted tones met with tribal accents, and sculptural combinations sure to transform your interiors into winter. cocorepublic.com.au

Omega Watches This OMEGA 29 mm 18K Sedna™ gold model features a diamondpaved bezel, pearled mother-of-pearl dial with diamond hour markers and a date window at the 6 o’clock position. RRP $42,075, omegawatches.com

Bar Geek The Complete Antique Cocktail Kit is a unique and eye-catching collection that includes the Toby Tin Set, Kurlux Mixing Glass, Maruchi Jigger 30/60, Barspoon Teardrop 33cm and No Prong V Strainer. RRP $144.95, bargeek.com.au

The Truffle Man is a gourmet food and wine business bringing the very bestquality, high-end produce – including truffles, caviar and premium spices – to restaurants and consumers across Australia. thetruffleman.com.au

Simon Johnson is the perfect place for all your Mother’s Day gifting, featuring a great selection for the modern home cook – including these luxurious dishcloths – in store and online. Solwang Dishcloths RRP $24.95, shop at simonjohnson.com

ILVE For the kitchen of your dreams, you can design your own ILVE cooker now using ILVE’s Oven Design Configurator. With 60,711 possible combinations, there is an ILVE for you! RRP from $4999, ilve.com.au

Liebherr The Monolith Wine Cabinet accommodates 100 Bordeaux bottles across three individual temperature zones. Virtually silent, it’s the perfect built-in for the most discerning wine connoisseur. RRP $16,490, home.liebherr.com.au

Gourmet Traveller Marketplace

ACCOMMODATION, FOOD & FASHION

The very best in luxury can be found right here in Australia. Our travel advisors have connections with Australia’s finest hotels & resorts giving you access to exclusive offers, VIP benefits and upgrades. Call us to discuss your travel plans. We’ll help you plan unique and unforgettable journey at home.

Trophy-winning dairy and non-dairy ice creams. 1800 815 067 www.maryrossitravel.com

Made using artisan techniques & premium natural ingredients. Our range includes gluten-free, vegan and Kosher.

serendipityicecream.com.au

A carbon-neutral Australian premium producer.

ze b ra n o

@laboqueriaau

䔀砀焀甀椀猀椀琀攀氀礀搀攀猀椀最渀攀搀挀氀漀琀栀攀猀昀爀漀洀䄀甀猀琀爀愀氀椀愀 ☀ 一娀ᤠ猀琀漀瀀氀愀戀攀氀猀椀渀猀椀稀攀猀㄀㐀⬀⸀⸀⸀⸀ 搀攀氀椀瘀攀爀攀搀搀椀爀攀挀琀琀漀礀漀甀爀搀漀漀爀⸀

䴀攀最愀渀匀愀氀洀漀渀

LA BOQUERIA ARTISAN SPANISH CHARCUTERIA

䴀漀礀甀爀甀Ⰰ 䴀攀氀愀倀甀爀搀椀攀Ⰰ 䌀甀爀愀琀攀Ⰰ 伀戀椀Ⰰ ㄀㜀匀甀渀搀愀礀猀Ⰰ 䴀攀最愀渀匀愀氀洀漀渀Ⰰ 䈀愀渀愀渀愀䈀氀甀攀Ⰰ ☀ 猀漀洀甀挀栀洀漀爀攀⸀

嘀椀攀眀䰀漀漀欀戀漀漀欀猀Ⰰ 搀椀猀挀漀瘀攀爀琀爀攀渀搀猀 ☀ 猀栀漀瀀⸀

Combining modern day techniques with century old Spanish recipes, passed down through generations of Catalonian master butchers. The results are phenomenal! nomadistribution.com.au/retail-stockists nomadistribution.com.au/shop

ze b ra n o . co m . a u

TO ADVERTISE 02 9282 8369 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

Gourmet Traveller Marketplace

ACCOMMODATION, FOOD & ART

ON MISSION BEACH

Truffles, caviar, champagne and more

Pandanus, sunbirds and sand beautiful accommodation in a lovely beachfront setting under the coconut trees fringing the Coral Sea.

thetruffleman.com.au thetrufflemanoz

info@sejala.com.au www.sejala.com.au

PORT DOUGLAS CAIRNS PALM COVE TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND PORT DOUGLAS CAIRNS PALM COVE DAINTREE PORT DOUGLAS CAIRNS PALM COVE DAINTREE TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND QUEENSLAND PORT TROPICAL DOUGLAS NORTH CAIRNS PALM COVE DAINTREE in luxury

in luxury in luxury in paradise in luxury in paradise in the ‘Artinofthe Tropical in paradise ‘Art ofLiving’ Tropical Living’

Stay

DAINTREE

TROPICAL NORTH QUEENSLAND

in paradise in the ‘Art of Tropical Living’

Exclusive Holiday Accommodation in the ‘Art of Tropical Living’ Exclusive Holiday Accommodation Special Event and Wedding Venues Exclusive Holiday Accommodation Special Event and Wedding Venues Exclusive Holiday Accommodation Gourmet Cooking Schools Special Event and Wedding Venues Gourmet Cooking Schools Special Event and Wedding Venues Gourmet Cooking Schools

Freecall 1800 631 566

02 5317 8200 • info@byngstreethotel.com.au 62 Byng Street Orange NSW

W W W. B Y N G S T R E E T H O T E L . C O M . A U

Freecall 1800 631 566

Gourmet Cooking Schools

Freecall 1800 6311800 566 631 566 Freecall

IN LUXURIOUS COMFORT AND UNIQUE STYLE

Luxury holiday accommodation LuxuryLuxury holiday accommodation holiday accommodation In House Catering Weddings Book Direct Luxury holiday accommodation Luxury Holiday Homes, Apartments and Villas In House Catering Weddings Book Direct In House Catering Weddings Direct In House Catering Weddings Book Direct 25 yearsFREECALL 1800 631 566 Creating exceptional holidays forBook more than www.executiveretreats.com.au www.executiveretreats.com.au

www.executiveretreats.com.au www.executiveretreats.com.au www.executiveretreats.com.au

FREECALL 1800 631 566 BOOK DIRECT I 566 SUPPORT FREECALL 1800 631 566 AUSTRALIA FREECALL 1800 631 www.executiveretreats.com.au wwww.executiveretreats.com.au w w . www.executiveretreats.com.au e xe c u t i ve re t re a t s. co m . a u

AM 18846/21 Silas Hobson My Grandmother 2021 Acrylic on canvas 180 x 110cm

TO ADVERTISE 02 9282 8369 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

Crooked Compass by Air

Gourmet Traveller Marketplace

ACCOMMODATION, FOOD & WINE

Venture from above Discover Australia’s most remote and untrodden reaches by private aircraft. Exclusively crafted journeys for you

HIDDEN ITALY: Port Douglas, Daintree & the Great Barrier Reef

Crooked Compass by Air

Crooked Compass by Air crookedcompassbyair.com 1300 855 790 Level 5, 131 York St, Sydney

There aren’t many places in the world where you can walk out of one World Heritage Area straight into another one. The Daintree, north of Port Douglas in Far North Queensland, is one such place. Here, you walk out of the Daintree Rainforest (the world’s oldest rainforest) and into the Great Barrier Reef (the planet’s largest living thing). Starting with a night in a four-star hotel in beautiful Port Douglas, we spend four nights in the charming Daintree Ecolodge exploring this extraordinary area, before returning to Port for the last night. This all-inclusive Hidden Italy guided walking includes great walks, excellent accommodation, fine food and good company!

We are passionate about hand crafting bespoke wine cellars. Our attention to detail and knowledge of building enables us to take on the complex and challenging. Wine cellar component supply Australia wide. 3/3 Torca Terrace Mornington VIC 3931 Phone: +61 3 9775 5544 Mobile: +61 408 994 274 www.cellar-creations.com.au

Full details: www.hiddenitaly.com.au/australasia/

Enjoy ultimate luxury and relaxation, allow yourself to be pampered with delectable treats and stunning wines from our region and breathe in the utter peace. It’s the little things that count at bishop’s court estate. Bishop’s Court Estate 226 Seymour St Bathurst NSW 2795 Ph: 0422 303 311

www.bishopscourtestate.com.au

South Africa’s Premier International Award Winning Gin Range Now Available Across Australia

Stoneflowgin

stoneflow.com.au

TO ADVERTISE 02 9282 8369 I HOMESTOLOVE.COM.AU/DIRECTORY

STYLE HOME . FASHION . BEAUTY

Made to last

STYLING & MERCHANDISING HANNAH BLACKMORE. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO.

Update your home and wardrobe with classic designs, timeless accessories and essential beauty buys.

Home

MODERN FARMHOUSE

MERCHANDISING CLAUDIA STEPHENSON. PHOTOGRAPHY MAREE HOMER.

For a country kitchen with a contemporary twist combine time-honoured designs with a pared-back colour palette.

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM Hamptons antique bronze rod pendant, $219, Lighting Collective. ILVE freestanding dual oven/stove, $1906, available at select retailers. Traditional kettle in Black Onyx, $220, Le Creuset. Skagerak serving board in Oak, from $139, Designstuff. Nolan 16-piece cutlery set, $109, Country Road. Smeg 1100mm freestanding cooker in Cream, $10,299, Harvey Norman. Baccarat Universal Circa knife holder block, $200, House. Falcon Kitchener dual fuel range cooker in Black with Chrome Trim, $6590, available at select retailers. Gio Pearl pasta bowl, $49.95, and Gio teacup and saucer $69.95, both Wedgwood.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

147

1 Roly-Poly chair in Raw, $10,700, Too Good. 2 412 Cab chair by Mario Bellini, POA, Cassina. 3 Angie armchair by Minotti, $10,450, Dedece. 4 Arflex Botolo chair in Fur, $5720, Space Furniture. 5 Wallace chaise designed by Jean-Marie Massaud, $9150, Poliform. 6 MR side chair, $2035, Dedece. 7 Wooden armchair by Marc Newson for Cappellini, POA, Cult Design. 8 Togo Fireside chair, POA, Domo.

148

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

MERCHANDISING CLAUDIA STEPHENSON.

Home

TAKE A SEAT

P I R AT

PHOTOGRAPHY MICHAEL SINCLAIR.

Create a cosy place to relax and recline with statement chairs that are both stylish and comfortable.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

149

1 Inspired by

The Grand Lobby, Raffles Singapore

Eternally chic

Invest in classic wardrobe essentials that will stand the test of time. 11

1 Larix coat, $4840, Max Mara. 2 Gucci square-frame acetate and gold-tone sunglasses, $630.15, Net-a-Porter. 3 Witchery x Maticevski OCRF white shirt, $129.95, Witchery. 4 Lambskin clutch, $7960, Chanel. 5 Malizia pants, $1060, Max Mara. 6 Lambskin loafers, $1440, Chanel. 7 Isabel Marant Soyona ruched T-shirt, $615, Net-a-Porter. 8 Open curved back ribbed knit dress, $600, Caes. 9 Alessandra Rich checked cotton-blend tweed bouclé jacket, $2450, Harrolds. 10 Bottega Veneta square twist gold-plated and leather hoop earrings, $750, Net-aPorter. 11 Bottega Veneta leather ballet flats, $980, Net-a-Porter. 12 Chloé ruffled lace-trimmed embroidered silk blouse, $1900, Net-a-Porter. 13 Day-Date 36 watch in Yellow Gold, $51,050, Rolex. 14 Vegan leather straight trouser, $760, Caes. 15 Silk Jacket, $2130, Bally.

150

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

8 5

MERCHANDISING KELSIE WALKER. PHOTOGRAPHY RALF TOOTEN (RAFFLES).

Style

It’s a cinch

STYLING KELSIE WALKER. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO.

Create a classic silhouette and add a touch of luxe to any outfit with a quality leather belt.

Top to bottom: Drover belt, $120, R.M. Williams. B-Low The Belt Taos mini belt, $149, Order of Style. Metal & Diamanté belt, $1940, Chanel. Elisa belt, $845, Christian Louboutin. Black Rulle belt, $85, Elk. Leather belt with Double S Logo, $255, Sandro.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

151

Lash

Volumise, lengthen and define your lashes with one of these top-shelf mascaras.

Sisley Paris So Stretch Lengthens, separates and shapes lashes for instant wide eyes. $85, Sisley Paris. Huda Beauty Legit Lashes A long-lasting, dual-ended mascara that delivers major volume and dramatic curl. $50, Sephora.

Kevyn Aucoin Indecent A cone-shaped brush makes for easy application of the lightweight formula. $43, Mecca.

Bite Beauty Upswing Full Volume Volumising and flake-resistant, for lift, length and curl. $39, Sephora.

152

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

Le Volume de Chanel Delivers instant volume for longer, thicker lashes. $57, Chanel.

love

STYLING & MERCHANDISING HANNAH BLACKMORE. PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO.

Milk Makeup Kush A high-volume mascara with conditioning hemp-derived cannabis seed oil. $39, Sephora.

Beauty

g & l h o s w i l o

Gently remove dead skin cells and reveal fresh, glowing skin with these non-abrasive exfoliators.

GT team favourite

7 4

9 5

2 3

1 Dual-action physical and chemical exfoliator with 12% glycolic acid for bright, smooth skin. Micro Super Scrub for Face and Body, $49.95, Alpha-H. 2 Roasted coffee, brown sugar and almond milk gently buff and hydrate dry spots. Drunk Elephant Sugared Koffie™ Almond Milk Scrub, $43, Mecca. 3 A vegan toner that gently exfoliates and renews for smooth, glowing skin. Nudestix 5% Citrus Fruit & Glycolic Glow Toner, $43, Sephora. 4 A serum to brighten and exfoliate tired, dull, pigmented skin. Ultimate Serum, $109, Aesthetics Rx. 5 A dual-action, non-abrasive acid exfoliation to hydrate and refine the appearance of pores. Super Radiance Resurfacing Facial, $99, Charlotte Tilbury. 6 A deep exfoliation to minimise the appearance of fine lines. Moon Juice Acid Potion Resurfacing Exfoliator, $64, Mecca. 7 A gentle leave-on exfoliant with salicylic acid that clears and minimises enlarged pores. 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, $38, Paula’s Choice. 8 Enriched with glycolic acid, this lightweight formula optimises serum absorption. Caudalie Concentrated Brightening Glycolic Essence, $57, Sephora. 9 Absorbs and removes impurities to reveal a brighter and renewed complexion. Defence+ Charcoal Micro Exfoliant, $60, Ella Baché. 10 Fruit extracts hydrate and even out skin tone in this granule-free exfoliant. Enzyme Exfoliant, $70, Grown Alchemist.

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

153

Objects of desire

Cast-iron cookware

Clockwise from left: Staub 28cm bouillabaisse pot in Dark Blue, $859.95, Myer. Lodge 30cm Blacklock triple seasoned cast iron skillet, $149, Peter’s of Kensington. Staub 31cm oval cocotte in Black, $829.95, Myer. 25cm square grill in Duck Egg Blue, $329, Chasseur. 24cm signature round casserole in Nectar, $550, Le Creuset.

154

G O U R M E T T R AV E L L E R

PHOTOGRAPHY KRISTINA SOLJO. STYLING & MERCHANDISING LAURA JACOBS.

Prepare warming winter feasts with these durable kitchen companions.