Whatever by grace-boda

Published by Britney spears in conjunction with P.DIDDY and the Museum at the fashion institute of technology IN MATHATTAN, NEW YORK, DECEMBER 1—DECEMBER 20, 2013, Organized by the backstreet boys. This book is typeset in love and with tenderness . the paper is only here because its difficult to put a book on a feather boa. © 2013 the Museum at the fashion institute of technology IN MATHATTAN, NEW YOURK all rights reserved

The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in Manhattan

table of contents 5 Foreword

9 Cha-Ching! 17

The 90s Fashion Revival

Top Five

33 Checklist

FOREWORD

Every so often we witness a time warp. Now we

The pieces also draw from the experimental

times, but it is reminiscent of the future. The

are in the midst of the revival of a time period

capabilities of the Museum, and celebrate the

conundrum of things that are already out of style

referred to lovingly as the nineteen nineties.

importance of fashion as both a cultural theme,

before they were made alongside ghost stories

Recognizing the undeniable rebirth of this time,

and a means of self expression. The pieces

of styles that have never been.

the works exhibited encompass the attitude and

mimic this expressiveness through choice of

social constructs as expressed through fashion

placement and inclusion. The collages wear the

On behalf of the religious Clueless cult

choice. The exhibition calls to fashion as its time

images chosen just as a person wears a shirt.

followers, I would like to take this opportunity to acknowledge all those who inspired the 90’s.

capsule. It focuses on the use of collage in which magazines function as the chosen medium to

The pieces are a little unkempt, and a little

My deepest thanks goes to whomever invented

reference not only fashion culture of the 90s

rebellious—the pieces are a lot like growing up

pleather. Without all of the above mentioned, the

reappearing today, but also to embody the

in the 90s. They illuminate the illusive cycles

90s would not have been possible. This one is

fashion culture as a whole—the books’ layouts

that so often are the make up of fashion trends.

dedicated to you Britney Spears.

strike a deliberate similarity to editorial design.

This time the arrival was not so evasive. We

The boldness of each piece is tighter than some

have found it, 90s kids. The experience should

bad kerning in an “old” nineties magazine.

be more than nostalgic— it calls to modern

–Grace Svoboda Artist

Teen Spirit 2013

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CHACHINGยก Retailers bring 90s fashions back

K A T I E L I T T L E

“feeling fre$h again”

Break out your jelly sandals and overall shorts: 1990s fashion has staged a comeback, prompting U.S. retailers to respond with fresh inventory of the decade’s hottest looks. At online retailer eBay, interest in 90s-related items has surged. Between July 2011 and June 2013, searches for crop tops rose 119 percent, while use of the phrase “acid wash jeans” was up 39 percent. “The decade was front-loaded with lots of edgy silhouettes, bright accents and zany looks, all of which are feeling fresh again,” said Heidi Ware, eBay’s head of fashion editorial and creative. Google searches echo this trend. During June, searches for crop tops were up 130 percent from a year earlier. Searches for acid wash shorts rose 78 percent. On both sites, searches for bucket hats and jelly shoes were also markedly higher. Google results for overall shorts indicated a jump in interest of more than 175 percent last month compared with 2011, while those for grunge clothing jumped 260 percent. Google’s retail industry director, April Anderson, attributed part of the trend’s rise to people who

grew up during the decade. The nostalgia of the

the post opines. “The 90s was the best decade

digital-native generation has been fed online

ever, hands down. If you miss it, or just missed

through viral posts from sites including Buzzfeed.

it in general, relive the good times with our

“That’s what I think is a really interesting thing about the trend,” Anderson said. “The people

graphic tees of some of the most iconic 90s things ever.”

that are interested in this sort of trend tend to

Prior decades’ looks often see resurgences

be the generation that grew up in the ‘90s, and

with new interpretations as retailers search for

they also grew up online.”

ways to capture customer dollars, Telsey said.

This age group, whom Anderson calls describes

“I think we see this oer time as apparel retailers

as “cultural tastemakers,” is an important one

are trying to find ways to stimulate consumers

for retailers such as such as Urban Outfitters,

to buy and being able to take what worked in the

Forever 21 and American Apparel, all of which

past is always helpful,” Telsey said. After last

were quick to hop on the 90s bandwagon. The adoption of 90s trends by celebrities such as Rihanna and well-known fashion bloggers has also spurred consumers to pick up on it,

year’s strong sales of colored jeans, retailers are looking to deliver further gains, and a 90s revival could help, she added. “We just came from a tough first half of the year,

said Dana Telsey, CEO of Dana Telsey Advi-

especially with the weather,” Telsey said. “You

sory Group.

always have to find a new way to get consumers

A recent Urban blog post about the 90s graphic

to open their wallets.”

tees featuring images of “Saved by the Bell’s”

For customers who can’t wait to rock their

Kelly Kapowski and vintage MTV logos, waxes

overalls with a bucket hat, this is welcome news.

poetic about the decade’s importance. “It’s no wonder that people want to go back in time and revive the music, movies, TV shows, killer fashion, and overall vibe of the youth,”

But others who hope the trend fades faster than a boy band may have to wait until the retail ebb and flow repopularizes a different era.

SHAPE OF AN L 2013

PART Y ON 2013

JUMP AROUND 2013

M a r iam A d e s a n y a

“we thought it had been given the kiss of death”

If you haven’t heard the 90s trend is in full

created a modern preppy take on what it means

Jellies sandals have been reintroduced and are

swing and has taken the fashion world by storm,

to be ”Clueless” with these iconic ladies in

now available in pastal tones, vibrant colour

again. Fashion’s trends are constantly being

mind. Athletic-chic was first seen on designers

blocks, glitter and metallic styles. But if you

recycled from previous decades and it looks

Tommy Hilfiger and DKNY in the 1990s. Who

have regrettably thrown all your 90s clothing

like we have come full circle to the good old 90s.

could forget the legendary Spice Girls known

away, not to worry you can visit eBay or any

The decade of crop tops, baggy flannel shirts,

for their staggering platforms, sports wear

vintage stores for great deals on 90s revival

ripped jeans, Doc Martens and grease lightning

and crop tops? Sportswear is no longer only for

pieces. Most of us couldn’t pull off this trend in

leather jackets are back. The “it” trend this

the gym but has been transformed into casual

the actual 90s but now that it has come around

season has given life to garments we thought

chic in the day and evening glamwour at night.

again we can make it right.

had been given the kiss of death.

The Sportslux trend can be found in every high

The 90s style started as an anti-conformity approach, a rejection of Western fashion and a way for youth to express themselves, introducing casual chic to this era, such as t-shirts, hoodies, jean jackets and trainers

street shop and worn by our favorite celebrities, Rihanna, Rita Ora and Cara Delevingne who have been seen rocking baggy jerseys, leather running shorts and Isbael Marant’s high-top suede trainer wedges.

which are still popular today. Grunge and

Hip Hop and Gangsta rap made its debut in the

alternative rock bands like No Doubt and

early 1990s with rappers like Tupac Shakur,

Nirvana made this unkempt, effortless trend

MC Hammer and NWA. They helped to cultivate

popular. The minimalist, relaxed look of grunge

style in this era by introducing the baggy

fashion has since been reinvented on every

pants, bomber jackets, Adidas tracksuits and

runway show this season from Alexandar Wang

snapbacks which is a trend that has continued

to Marc Jacob’s catwalks.

into the late 2000s. The Hip Hop trend was also

The Preppy look, a direct contrast to grunge fashion which was bleak and unkempt, was a vibrant and fun trend. It was made famous the by the 90s film Clueless. In the movie the main characters were seen sporting plaid skirt suits, knee high stockings and patent Mary Janes (and who didn’t want to be Cher, Tai or Dionne?). Fast forward to today, the fabulous rocker chic brand WildFox Couture

a huge influence on women in the 90s, think Aaliyah in her “Back and Forth video” and the female rap duo Salt n Peppa in their ”Push It” days. Rappers, Asap Rocky and Kanye West, major followers of 90s fashion who are bringing back the over sized shirts, timberland boots and leather trousers (who knew they would make a comeback?). High waist denim, dungarees and bralette

reenacted the preppy style with their “Kids

tops have all made comebacks and are very

in America” Spring 2013 collection and have

on trend this summer. Even the popular Juju

DON’T GO (CHASING WATERFALLS) 2013

ONE WEEK SINCE YOU’VE LOOKED 2013

Barbie Girl 2013

Top Five 90s Fashion Styles Poised to Make a Comeback J o s e D . D u r a n

Did you hear the news? Break out your best ill-

But why stop at Elaine? There were so many

fitted, shabby clothing because according to the

fashion inspirations we can revisit. So in order

New York Times, the Elaine Benes look is back!

to brag that we thought of it first, here are our

We’re not too sure if the Seinfeld star’s look

top five 90s fashions that we’d like to see

was ever in vogue, but considering we’re coming

Midwesterners wear after New York, Miami, and

down from an 80s revival high— complete with

Los Angeles are done with them.

80s-style economic downturn—it only makes sense we find a way to revisit another decade. And why not the 90s? They were awesome: Bill Clinton was president, the economy was healthy, and AOL introduced us to the interwebs.

Babydolls/ Kinderwhore

Clueless via Contempo Casuals

Remember the shit you used to wear when you

The cult classic movie Clueless was as much

were five and your mom told you you looked

about the one-liners (“As if!” and “Whatever!”)

super kewt? Well, in the early 90s, females in

as it was about the fashion. The look really is

the grunge musical movement decided it would

an evolution of kinderwhore look into a more

be awesome to take that look and whore it

mainstream and palatable style. Super girly and

up. Courtney Love was the icon of this fashion

preppy, the look was really pushed by stores

aesthetic, but she took it a step further by

like Contempo Casuals and Wet Seal -- the ‘90s

looking like she rolled in a bunch of dirt and

version of Forever 21.

added a dash a heroin track marks for that perfect “I’ve been a very bad girl” look.

Chances for a comeback? Good. It all depends on kinderwhore coming back, since this was

Chances for a comeback? Very good. Cocaine was all

really an evolution of the grunge look. Still, the

the rage in the 2000s as a sort of compliment to the

polished, preppy look complete with the prep school

‘80s revival. Seeing how we are trying to emulate the

headbands can already be found on trendy shows like

‘90s here, heroin might make a comeback as well, and

Gossip Girl, so maybe it already came back and we

the drug is essential to the look. This also means Kate Moss’s heroin chic has a good chance of returning as well.

just didn’t notice.

Backward Jerseys Hip-hop hooray! This is one look our parents

Blossom’s Nerdy Chic We’re going to say it: Blossom’s fashion was

Crop Tops Remember the crop top? It was all the rage in the

absolute forbade us from donning, saying it was

mostly inspired by a trainwreck of clothing all

late 90s. Famous people like Drew Barrymore,

better left to the hoodlums. But Kris Kross’s

over her body. It wasn’t flattering or cute. It’s

Gwen Stefani, Britney Spears, and the Spice

wearing-everything-backwards look took these

like you took your grandmother’s forgotten

Girls were fans of exposing their midriffs no

tween MCs to the top of the Billboard charts in

wardrobe and put it on a child. People say the

matter what the occasion, and soon all of

1992. Unfortunately for them, that’s all anyone

80s were filled with bad fashion choices, but

America followed their lead. It also gave rise— or

remembered and they quickly faded into obscurity.

thanks to Blossom, the 90s come a real close

low rise— to the Brazilian jeans fad, which dared

second. That being said, how long until hipsters,

women to go as low as possible without showing

er, fauxhemians take this look to make a sort of

their babymakers. It was like every woman was

post-ironic statement?

dressed like a slut. But nobody said anything

Chances for a comeback? Low. Honestly, we’d like to see it come back just to throw it in our parents’ faces that we no longer need their permission for our fashion choices.

Chances for a comeback? Very good. The potential for irony is high, so the chances it will make a return are almost a guarantee.

about it mainly because they were dressed the same way and men were enjoying it too much. Chances for a comeback? Low. As a nation, we are getting fatter and the crop top requires abs of steel. God forbid we become a nation of exposed muffin tops.

AROUND THE WAY 2013

THAT THING 2013

LIKE CANDY 2013

WORKS IN THE EXHIBITION

T E E N SPIRI T Gr ace S voboda, 2013 C ollage

SH A PE OF A N L Gr ace S voboda, 2013 C ollage

PA R T Y ON Gr ace S voboda, 2013 C ollage

JUMP A ROUND Gr ace S voboda, 2013 C ollage

DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; T GO (CH A SING WAT E RFA L L S) Gr ace S voboda, 2013 C ollage

SINCE YOUâ&#x20AC;? V E LOOK E D AT ME Gr ace S voboda, 2013 C ollage

B A RBIE GIRL Gr ace S voboda, 2013 C ollage

T E E N SPIRI T Gr ace S voboda, 2013 C ollage

T H AT T HING Gr ace S voboda, 2013 C ollage

L IK E C A NDY Gr ace S voboda, 2013 C ollage