Grace Ishaku Fashion Design into Practice E19FM | Year 3 2015 PAD | Tribe
Context
~ Concept ~ West Africa - Tribal Marks ~ 19 Century - History of Corset ~ Designer Research - House of Doir ~ Summer Project- Alexander Mcqueen ~ Colour Pallete ~ Silhouette ~ Target Market and Market Research ~ Fabric Manupulation ~ Digital Print ~ Fabric ~ Initail Line up ~ Final Line up ~ Selected Garment and Technical Drawing ~ Manufacturing Prcoess ~ Toile ~ Final Grament ~ Evaluation ~ Bibilography
Concept
Global Mash UP refers to the idea of mixing two cultures together in order to create something unique. The key area this brief focusses on is to design for a specific market level using two different cultures without misappropriating other people’s culture and this collection is a personal statement which reflects the designers fashion handwriting. This collection is influenced by the European and West African culture, and the predicted trends for forecasted for Spring Summer 2016/17; specifically the new “Past Modern” for Spring Summer 2016. Taking research from the design concept the outcome is to design a range of 6 outfits and take one outfit minimal of three Garments into production for the chosen Brand and Market level. In order to design a collection for this new brand, a lot of aspect were taken into consideration from start to finish. The most important part of this collection that was highly considered were, the colour palette, silhouette, market level, fabric manipulation, design development, fabric and most importantly the two cultures . Following on from the primary and secondary research collected, the first step was to record quick sketches of initial ideas, developing and planning the ideas for the final design collection. The second step was to create and develop fabric manipulation using fabric from both cultures in order to design something unique and avoid cultural theft. The selected fabric manipulation was further recreated on Adobe Photoshop programme and was digitally printed on to the fabric. The aim for the collection will be reach across markets and access market segments that are usually more price sensitive than their original market levels. Producing garments with the prestigious representation of this brand name at a price range that targets a wider target market. Not only does this collection fit the chosen market level in regards to fabric choice, finishing details, price point but it also reflects the ethical and sustainable ethos of this brand in a contemporary fashion. The brief was considered in order to determine the target market level for the design collection as well as the potential design ideas. It was concluded that the market that it would be aimed at would be women in their mid-20’s who are fashion forward but may not currently have the disposable to afford high-end price tag that comes with designer brands, still allowing them the luxury of design. It was decided that high end construction techniques would be best suited to the chosen target market level and would attract the kind of clientele this collection is aiming towards. Research into high street store such as Zara, Topshop were considered in the construction process, in particular finishing details.
All of this was necessarily contributes to the production and distribution of the final limited collection.
West Africa - Tribal Marks
To begin to form the concept for my collection, I first look at the History of West African Tribal Marks to detemine what aspect from History intriqued me the most. Tribal mark is a specific mark which comes in diffterent sizes commonly found on face and body. During the ancient days, this facial or tribal marks serves as a form of beauty or depiet royalty or even used to identify slaves. From delicate swirls of raised hash to intricate dotted patterns, the scars that decorate the bodies of ethiopians and sudanes are more than just the signs of an old injury. Ever snice then, the tribal marks have become a prominent part of their traditions.
19th century women costume. Corset was typically worn as an under garment and was occasionally been used as an outer garment. The corset was worn to give women the hour-glass shape. The origins of the corset are unknown. From the early 16th century, corset-shaped cages of iron are preserved, but it’s almost certain that they had nothing to do with normal clothing. I decided to look into the history of corset and why women worn it regardless of the side effect. I was intrigued by the shape of the women before and after wearing the corset. This collection is influenced by the 19th century silhouette. This collection is highly influnced by the hour-glass shape the corset gave the women from the 19th century
European Culture - Corset
House of Dior
I was inspired by the House of Dior’s striking silhouette of tiny waists with emphasis on the hourglass curves creating an almost caricature body shape and how it has had a recent revival in popularity.
Summer Project - Alexander Mcqueen
Taking inspiration from the summer project. Alexander McQueen’s Savage Beauty. Like the Victorian Gothic, which combines elements of horror and romance, McQueen’s collections often reflect opposites such as life and death, lightness and darkness. Indeed, the emotional intensity of his runway presentations was frequently the importance of the chemistry between dialectical oppositions. This collection is also influence by Alexander McQueen’s “Savage Beauty” recent collection. Inspired by the finishing detail, construction, fabric, silhouette colour palette on the two garment above.
Colour Pallete
Colours were highly taken into consideration to match the mood of this collection. This was expressed using predicted “Past Moder� colour trend Spring Summer 2016 by using the general key colours. This colour palette, I wanted to keep dark with a hint of bright colours and decided that the key colours in this collection will be brown, red, orange blue and black. In this case the chosen colours reflects both the European and West African culture.
Silhouette
Focusing on silhouette’s from the 1900 cenutry corset research, I have based the shape around a fitted corset bodice and full skirt with a contemporay approch. Mixing this style with an element of structure to provide a contrast.
Target Research and Market Research
The brief was considered in order to determine the target market level for the design collection as well as the potential design ideas. It was concluded that the market that it would be aimed at would be women in their mid-20’s who are fashion forward but may not currently have the disposable to afford high-end price tag that comes with designer brands, still allowing them the luxury of design. It was decided that high end construction techniques would be best suited to the chosen target market level and would attract the kind of clientele this collection is aiming towards. Research into high street store such as Zara, Topshop were considered in the construction, in particular finishing details. All of this was necessarily contributes to the production and distribution of the final limited collection.
Fabric Manuipulation
Within my collection I used the Tribal Marks as the inspiration for my fabric manipulation. I was inspired by the skin tone and the interesting patterns the marks left on the body, in order to recreate my inspired look I started playing around with different fabric and realised that real leather fabric gave me the look I was going for. Because the brief is global mash-up I introduce some African wax print fabric from West Africa (my culture) and mixed the two fabrics from different culture together in order to create a unique fabric manipulation.
Digital Print
Fabric Manupulation
Following on from experimenting with fabric manipulation, I decided to digitally print out the final fabric for the design collection. After deciding on what design to print, I went on to Photoshop Adobe Programme and developed the design furthermore. Repeat pattern print on the fabric was the decided look I felt work perfectly with the rest of the fabric for the collection. The new digital print fabric came out just as I imagined it.
Scanned close up Imagine
Final Print Design
Fabric
Sourcing fabric is a key part of the design. Fabric choices were highly taken into consideration in order to avoid cultural theft when selecting fabric for this collection. It was decided that new fabric manipulation design is digitally printed. Keeping in mind the Market level, decision were made on selecting the quality of the fabric used along-side using high-end construction techniques. The fabric used in this collection is the West African wax print fabric, Sateen, leather and the new printed fabric.
AFRICAN WAX PRINT
NEW PRINT DESIGN
SATEEN
REAL LEATHER
Intial Design Line up
Final Line Up
Selected Outfit
Technical Drawing Back
Front
Manufacturing Process
Manufacturing process of the garments. I researched the different tyeps of all pattern construction aspects before beginning my pattern drafting process. The crop corset top detailing was hand made using the hand punch eyelid maker. The rest of the garments were made using Industrial machine. I encountered a few problems during the manufacturing process which were all resolve with the help of the technicians.
Toile
Toile Construction of the final full outfit
Final Toile
Final toile completed and ready to be constructed with final fabric.
Final Garment
Evaluation
The final finished garments replicate the 2D designs well. One of the things I will re-consider if I was to go back and work on this project again would be the fabric choice and the construction method. I feel like I have developed so much and learn a lot more as a designer and especially more in pattern cutting and sewing. At first I struggled with brief understanding the brief but the help of the lecturer I was able to connect more with given brief and deliver what was expected of me. Although the entire process has been a stressful one, I enjoyed it and I feel I have grown as designer. I am very happy with the way my collection turned out, I feel it reflects my aesthetic and skills as fashion designer.
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