How do you get to know a city that’s constantly reinventing itself? From high-tech mega-resorts to leafy tropical oases, Singapore is best explored with an insider guide and an essential itinerary. Text and photos by Lim Sio Hui
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in the Lion City
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Cool views over Singapore from Ku DĂŠ Ta in the Sky Park building
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DAY 1 Don’t mind the crowds and start your tour at the epicentre of Singapore’s commercial district, Raffles Place MRT (Mass Rapid Transit, the local underground) station, its ceaseless hum of traffic and jungle of skyscrapers overhead a reminder that you’re in one of the world’s key financial centres. Let the rush hour traffic sweep you down to Lau Pat Sat Festival Market (18 Raffles Quay), a treasure trove of hawker stalls in a charming Victorian filigree cast-iron structure dating back to the country’s early days as a colonial trading post, then breakfast amongst CEOs and blue-collar workers on your pick of a wide selection of inexpensive local and global options (average price SGD$3–$5/€1.75–€3). Cross the road at Raffles Quay and you’ll soon come to the waterfront at Marina Bay, a sparkling example of how far the city-state has come: built on reclaimed land, Marina Bay Sands (10 Bayfront Avenue, +65 6688 8868, marinabaysands.com) dominates the skyline with its three futuristic, soaring hotel towers. Part of the country’s ambition to keep in the forefront of the tourism business, the massive 6,000,000 squarefoot integrated resort was developed at a cost of 4.2 billion euros—and is still in the midst of completion: the world’s first ArtScience Museum, opens in the eye-catching white blossom-like building on February 17th. But you’ll come back to that later. Press on until you reach the mouth of the river, where the giant Merlion fountain sprouts into the seawater, the mythical half-lion half-fish mascot representing Singapore’s roots and namesake, Singapura or “lion city.” From the Merlion Park jetty, you can join a 30-minute tour by the Singapore River Cruise company (SGD$15/€9; +65 63366111) in a bumboat, the very same type of vessel from which the city-state’s forefathers—traders from around the world—did a brisk business with merchants from warehouses along the river. Today, the colourful rows of restored shophouses and godowns are dining and nightlife establishments, in stark contrast to the steel- and glass-cloaked skyscrapers behind them. Continue exploring the riverfront on foot to enjoy the skyline from a different perspective, watching out for the statue of Sir Stamford Raffles, which marks the site where he landed back in 1819, before founding the city-state.
Rooftop cocktails at Ku Dé Ta
Lunch is at Maxwell Food Centre (1 Kadayanallur Street) in Chinatown, just a 5-minute taxi ride away. This hawker centre is regarded as one of the best around, with stalls such as Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice and Zhen Zhen porridge packing long queues at lunchtime. Don’t park yourself at tables marked with tissue packets—this idiosyncrasy is how locals reserve their seats.
locals use a tissue packet to reserve a table in the market.
Take the tempo down with a leisurely stroll: the neighbouring area between Erskine Road and Amoy Street is a delightful option dotted with green spaces, designer boutiques and quaint independent stores. Stop by at Thian Hock Keng (free entrance, 158 Telok Ayer Street, +65 6423 4616), the oldest and most important Hokkien temple in Singapore, partially constructed with parts recycled from Chinese junks: the timber, stone columns and tiles are made from ballasts, while mosaic pieces used on the temple roof come from broken pieces of pottery and cutlery from ships.
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Wanderlust hotel’s Space room
usually first class, but if time is tight, go straight for the interactive permanent Singapore showcases that bring different aspects of the country’s culture such as food, history and film to life. Just in time for sundown at the hottest attraction in town—even locals vacation here at the Marina Bay Sands, where you’ll find crowds dropping jaws at the panorama from its gravity-defying SkyPark (SGD$20/€11.86 entrance fee), 200 metres up in the air. Avoid the crowds and head for the achingly hip Ku Dé Ta to enjoy the view with a Sunset Punch cocktail in hand, while the DJ spins a sultry soundtrack. (Open from 6 pm ‘til late, SGD$50/about €30 cover for Friday, Saturday and eve of public holidays, +65 6688 7688, kudeta.com.sg).
singapore consists of one main island and 63 tiny islands.
Going global Did you know that Singapore-based boutique hoteliers are renowned around the world for their cutting-edge properties, from the eco-pioneer Alila chain to the luxury Como resorts? One name to watch is Loh Lik Peng, the man behind Wanderlust and other rulebreaking Singapore hotels, who has recently opened East London’s Town Hall Hotel and The Waterhouse at South Bund in Shanghai.
Sojourn at Killiney Kopitam (21 Amoy Street, tel: +65 6532 6616) for the popular local snack of kaya toast—a crisp sandwich oozing with butter and freshly made sweet coconut jam—best savoured dipped in the local coffee brew, which locals refer to as kopi. Suitably refreshed, it’s time for a background on the rags-to-riches story of the now-thriving metropolis at the National Museum (3 Stamford Rd; +65 6332 3659, nationalmuseum.sg), an architectural icon with its light-filled, modern colonial building. The special exhibits are
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How does foie gras jelly, or a deconstructed Snickers bar sound? You’re about to fall in love with chef-of-the-moment Andre Chiang’s “octa-philosophy” cuisine, based on eight key characteristics: unique, texture, memory, pure, land, salt, south (of France) and artisan. His sophisticated modern French cuisine won his previous stint at Jaan par André the 39th rank in last year’s San Pellegrino’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants, so you can expect similar palate pleasers at his newly opened Restaurant Andre (41 Bukit Pasoh Road, +65 65348880, restaurantandre.com) Time to hit the bed after a long, satisfying day. Singapore’s everevolving hotel scene offers plenty of exciting options, but for something out of the ordinary, book yourself into Wanderlust (2 Dickson Road; +65 6396 3322, wanderlust.com). This audacious newcomer in the authentic but less-polished Little India district, boasts fun, stylish themes designed by four of the country’s top local studios. For a starry-eyed shut-eye, choose a spaceship-themed room in the whimsical category, whose fantasy-filled décor includes quirky plush creatures: soak in the oversized freestanding tub before climbing into your darkened loft bed illuminated by hundreds of “stars.”
Fantasy filled interiors: the new Wanderlust hotel in the edgy Little India district
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Housed in a converted chapel, the White Rabbit restaurant is in Tanglin Village, the city’s hottest dining district. ENG
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The White Rabbit serves up Western classics such as Tournedos Rossini.
DAY 2 Dousing a greasy pancake in curry gravy might be an unusual meal choice first thing in the day, but roti prata is a dish the locals love for breakfast—in fact, any time—for a tasty, filling snack. The dish is so popular it has spawned a host of imaginative variations and Mr. Prata (26 Evans Road, #01-02 Evans Lodge; +65 6235 6993) has over 40 varieties—such as the cheese and tomato topped pizza prata—and counting. Wash down the lightly spiced dish with Milo Dinosaur, a chocolate malt drink topped with a generous heap of Milo powder. You’re less than ten minutes away far from the city centre, but it feels a world away—next door is the Singapore Botanic Gardens (1 Cluny Road; www.sbg.org.sg) where the joys of tropical living can be discovered amidst its lush greenery, designed around many majestic 100-year-old heritage trees. Take your time to explore the sprawling gardens and lakes— don’t miss the banks of colourful blooms at the National Orchid Garden (SGD$5/€3 entrance fee), home to 1,000 species and 2,000 hybrids—amongst them Singapore’s national flower, the Vanda Miss Joaquim.
the national flower was discovered by an armenian.
When you’re ready to leave, cross Holland Road into Tanglin Village (www.tanglinvillage.com), the leafy home to the city’s hottest dining district. There are all sorts of tastebud tantalising options in these ex-army barracks, featuring cuisines from all corners of the globe. The White Rabbit (39C Harding Road; +65 64739965; thewhiterabbit.com.sg) is a lovely option, with beautifully done Western classics such as Tournedos Rossini served up in a bright and modern converted chapel milieu. Robertson Quay’s Red House serves a sweet version of the must-try local dish: Chilli Crab.
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When to go
Plan your trip around these 2011 highlights: Singapore Biennale Titled Open House, the city’s third biennale of contemporary art attempts to translate experiences between private and public in four emblematic spaces. Mar 13 to May 15
wwwsingaporebiennale.org
World Gourmet Summit Michelin-starred chefs from different countries pair up with local restaurants to offer culinary indulgences and master classes. April 26 to May 7
www.worldgourmetsummit.com
Singapore Arts Festival Theatre arts, dance, music and visual arts come together in this annual festival, themed “I Want to Remember” this year. May 13 to June 5
www.singaporeartsfest.com
Great Singapore Sale Bargain hunters go into shopping overdrive as all the goods in the city’s malls and boutiques go on sale. May 27 to July 24
www.greatsingaporesale.com.sg
Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix The world’s first night race finds the city packed with celebrities, parties, and big entertainment acts brought in for the event. Sept 23 to 25
www.singaporegp.sg
Zoukout One of the biggest outdoor dance music festivals in Asia is held on the beach on Sentosa island, with the biggest DJs from around the globe in attendance. December 10
www.zoukout.com
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Walk off lunch with a leisurely stroll around the furniture houses, art galleries and boutiques of Tanglin Village as you head back out to the main road. If you’re after some serious shopping, though, make a beeline for our next stop: Orchard Road. In terms of sheer number of retail outlets in each of its malls, this is the shopping paradise to rule them all: Ion Orchard (2 Orchard Turn, +65 6238 8228, ionorchard.com), one of the newest and best loved malls, features more than 300 boutiques and eateries, and a spread range of brands to suit all budgets. Most malls offer special discounts and privileges for tourists, so don’t forget to check at the information counter. There’s time for a quick visit to the Kampong Glam district, an Islamic enclave and home to important place of worship Sultan Mosque (free entrance, 3 Muscat Street, +65 6293 4405, www.sultanmosque.org.sg), with its minarets and balustrades in the Saracenic style. Before entering, look up to its golden dome— those translucent green discs in its base might look familiar, they are made up of the bottom of green glass bottles. Its nearby shisha cafés, Egyptian perfumeries and quaint knick-knack stores make for a lively jaunt after your tour, together with the hip boutiques and bohemian cafés on Haji and Bali lanes. Look out for Bar Stories (57A Haji Lane, +65 6298 0838), a blink-and-you’ll-miss it bar tucked away on the second floor—Bloody Mary lovers will relish its version of the cocktail, made from scratch.
the mosque’s golden dome is made of glass bottles.
You shouldn’t leave without sampling another must-try local dish: Chilli Crab, a delectable combination of succulent fresh crab and spicy-sweet lashings of fragrant, fluffy gravy. Flag a taxi for Red House (60 Robertson Quay #01-13 The Quayside, +65 6735 7666) at Robertson Quay, which serves a tomato-heavy, sweeter rendition of the dish. Order some mantou (Chinese buns) to scoop up the thick gravy. On your way out out to the road, you’ll find plenty of lively options for nightcap at the surrounding watering holes, to cap off your twoday adventure. Here’s a toast! On May 30, Finnair launches daily nonstop flights to Singapore.
Singapore 5 million
population
An oasis of green: the Singapore Botanic Gardens
Currency
Singapore dollar (SGD) 1 SGD= â‚Ź.60 cents
Language
There are four official languages in ÂSingapore English, Chinese (Mandarin), Malay and Tamil; English is the main language and most commonly spoken.
Official tourism webite: www.yoursingapore.com
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