Domaine Philippe Leclerc Classic Gevrey from the Magnificent 2009 Vintage A visit to Domaine Philippe Leclerc is an interesting experience in many ways. Clive Coates says “ Philippe, with his neat beard and elegant clothes, gives one the impression that he has just got off the set of some swashbuckling movie.” Another acquaintance calls him “Mr Easyrider”. It all makes for a very individual association. The Domaine is located within the town of Gevrey-Chambertin. Going down the stairs from what appears a smallish building above ground you enter an aladdin's cave of cellars and rooms, many beautifully finished. Here Philippe crafts his serious GevreyChambertin. These are wines that are made to last, in the old way, but with all the benefits of modern know-how. Philippe picks late, macerates slowly at high temperature with some stems, and then places the wine into a high percentage of new oak. The result is deep, firm, classic wines with strong tannic backbones. Wines made to age. Producer’s note from Burghound: Philippe Leclerc, who is definitely not given to hyperbolic excess, told me flatly that "2009 is among the 3 best vintages that I have ever made in the 40 years that I have been doing this. Along with 1978 and 1985, 2009 produced truly wonderful wines that have everything that they need to achieve greatness. Moreover, it's the first vintage that I have ever made where I didn't chaptalize even one wine, not even the Bourgogne. For the vinification, I used between 25 and 33% whole clusters, which you could do in a vintage that is as phenolically ripe as 2009 is. The malos were long but not as long as 2007 or 2008. Overall, I am very excited about the vintage." The 2009’s I tasted all impressed me with their fruit and freshness. The wines are tannic, but not overly so, and the combination with the stunning fruit of 2009 makes these seriously good. A little patience will be generously rewarded. Burghound notes a little reduction which will disappear as the wines are finished. I only saw this on one barrel of Combe aux Moines - the second barrel was much fresher and transparent.
2009 Gevrey-Chambertin “La Platiere” Usual Price $89.95 Pre-Arrival Price $79.95 Lovely nervosity on the nose. The fruit is very bright and there is serious body and mouthfeel for a village wine. Deep flavours are followed by a finish with enough tannin to attain serious length. Impressive. Burghound: Reduction. Here the mouth feel is quite suave and opulent with ripe structural elements that are dense but relatively fine on the lingering, mouth coating and well-balanced finish. 88-91 Drink: 2016+
2009 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cazetiers Usual Price $165.00 Pre-Arrival Price $149.00 More serious and powerful. Red-black berries with noticeable, but fine, oak notes. On the palate the wine has the minerality of Cazetiers and is very mouthfilling and powerful. This is a masculine wine without doubt, but it also has great balance and life. I like the style of this cuvee very much. Burghound: Visible but reasonably well-integrated wood sets off cool and airy red berry fruit aromas that carry both earth and sauvage undertones, both of which can also be found on the rich, full and precise yet overtly muscular and powerful flavors that culminate in a naturally sweet and driving finish. This should be excellent if allowed to have 10 to 12 years of cellar time first. A SWEET SPOT WINE 90-93 Drink: 2021+
2009 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe Aux Moines Usual Price $185.00 Pre-Arrival Price $165.00 Tasted from two barrels. Number one showed a little reduction and needs a racking. Barrel two - a completely different beast. Bright red-black berry fruit that is darker is taste than the Cazetiers. A bigger frame again with masses of extract and a seriously long, tannin driven finish. Not for the first time I have written “bright” which is a recurring character in the 2009 reds. A very smart wine that I think would easily be confused as a Grand Cru in a blind tasting. Burghound: Reduction. There is by contrast a real sense of underlying vitality to the exceptionally fresh and vibrant middle weight flavors that also brim with both copious amounts of dry extract and ample minerality on the serious yet not particularly rustic, powerful and firmly tannic finish. This is often the best wine chez Leclerc and so it is again in 2009. A SWEET SPOT WINE 91-93 Drink: 2021+
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