4 minute read

Anything but Ordinary

As the new executive chef of Lowood, culinary veteran Trevor Tack loves to exceed expectations.

Intense, clean-cut and with movie-star charisma, Trevor Tack laughs hard and works harder. He grew up in Chickasha, the child of supportive, hard-working parents (a lawyer from Michigan, a schoolteacher from Chickasha) who had little time for gourmet food. He had more than a passing acquaintance with Hamburger Helper.

It’s a wonder he became a chef at all – but, after arriving at Oklahoma State University in Stillwater with no strong career inclinations, the chef life slowly drew him in. He was thrilled by the magic of it; he liked the honesty of it. If you cook a bad dish, there’s no fooling people, but you get to start fresh the next day. He changed his major from business to hospitality.

His first job was at the Chalkboard in Tulsa. He worked for chef Paul Caplinger, and he still admires the man. He learned a lot about food there, but the most important thing Caplinger taught him wasn’t about cuisine at all.

“He taught me you didn’t have to lead by using fear,” Tack explains. “Back then, it was the usual tactic. The chef would deliberately make people afraid of him. Paul taught me that when you work for someone who truly cares about you, you do your best to succeed.”

That lesson remained at the forefront of Tack’s mind throughout his career. And what a varied, exciting career it’s been. He has either worked at, designed, opened, or led almost every fine dining restaurant you can think of in the area. Chalkboard, SoChey, Dalesandro’s, Stonehorse, Main Street Tavern, Bodean (“I had fun there,” he says), R Bar (“My weekly Sunday brunch was a party that revolved around food, not mimosas,” he says), Bull in the Alley, Fassler Hall, Dilly Diner (“My toughest opening ever; we opened in the middle of the Tulsa Tough bike marathon and were packed from seven in the morning till midnight,” he says), executive chef for McNellie’s Group and Watershed Hospitality Group, and the Hemingway. Now, just when Tack thought he’d finally take a short break, he’s found a home at Lowood.

“Noah Bush [owner of Lowood] told me they needed a chef and asked me to step in for a few weeks,” he says. “I came, and I fell in love with the place.”

Get Tack talking about the dishes he’s planning for Lowood and you’ll feel his contagious enthusiasm.

“We’ll hard-char broccolini, serve it with a sauce inspired by Andalucian ajoblanco soup. What you’ll taste? Freshness, char, surprise, creaminess, satisfaction,” he says. “That’s what I want the whole menu to feel like. I like surprises, I like to under-promise and overdeliver – like my Chilean sea bass in consomme. It comes to the table, it looks quite ordinary. But what you taste is anything but. It’s rich, light, satisfying, bright, acidic, with a fatty note, too.”

On my first visit to Lowood after Tack joined the team, I sat at the counter overlooking the cooking area, and the first thing I noticed was the laughter. Tack runs a happy kitchen – a place where the chefs can enjoy themselves as they are turning out works of art.

“Oh, I love that!” Tack says when I share the thought with him. “We enjoy each other’s company, and our food is born from pride and a desire to do it right. I want my kitchen staff to grow. I like to mentor, and I like to learn from them. It’s a hard, hard job we do, working all day with sharp objects and fire. I love the people who work in kitchens; they are my people.”

BRIAN SCHWARTZ

Laurannae Baking Co.

Described as a boutique bakery, espresso and pastry bar, you can find Laurannae Baking Co. in the heart of Broken Arrow’s Rose District. The bakery is best known for its cakes; customers are able to customize color palettes, favors and other modifications for the perfect fit, or order classic cakes from the menu. The bakery is bustling with goodies, from cupcakes to signature cookies, pies, rolls, cheesecakes, scones, muffins and more. If you’d rather make some creations at home, utilize the ‘take and bake’ options including cinnamon rolls and cookie dough. Stick around for a full-service espresso bar to get your caffeine kick. You can also take decorating workshops, rent out the space for events, or visit monthly socials. 112 W. Commercial St.; 1205 E. Kenosha St., Broken Arrow; lbcotulsa.com

Dado’s Pizza

Independently owned Dado’s Pizza in OKC serves up classic New York-pies, as well as pizza by the slice. The affordable and delicious menu is led by a bevy of hand-stretched, 20” pies, with prices ranging from $3.75-$4.50 for a slice and $24-$28 for a whole pie. Highlights include the White with grande sopraffina ricotta, aged mozzarella, oregano, garlic, black pepper and olive oil drizzle; the Buffalo Chicken with grande aged mozzarella, buffalo chicken and blue cheese dressing; and the Garden Pie with bell peppers, Roma tomatoes, red onion, black olives, cremini mushrooms and garlic oil. Don’t forget to add both appetizers and desserts to your order, including mozzarella sticks, garlic and cheesy knots, wings, salads or zeppole – a sweet Italian pastry. 10942 N. May Ave., Oklahoma City; dadospizzaokc. com

Ah-Sigh-E

If you’re on the hunt for a quick lunch or snack stop, Ah-Sigh-E may be your new favorite dining destination. Brimming with acai bowls, smoothies and coffee confections, the restaurant is a must-visit for healthconscious eaters. A popular bowl is the Red, White and Blue – replete with a blend of acai, strawberries, blueberries, dark sweet cherries, banana, unsweetened almond milk and almond butter, topped with homemade granola, fresh strawberries, banana slices, hemp hearts, chia seeds and raw honey. Others opt for the Protein Bowl, which offers over 40 grams of plant-based protein with a blend of acai, cacao powder, mango, sweet cherries, banana, unsweetened almond milk and almond butter, topped with homemade granola, fresh blueberries, pumpkin seeds, almond slices, sunflowers seeds and honey. Smoothie options are endless, with a highlight being the Tropical Blend, with acai, pineapple, mango, peaches, strawberry, banana, honey and unsweetened coconut milk. The joint also sells cold brew, salad dressings and health-conscious energy drinks. Locations throughout the Tulsa metro and surrounding areas; ahsighe.com

Cajun Corner

Family-owned Cajun Corner presents diners with three convenient locations in OKC. Cajun delicacies, as well as out-of-the-box fusion dishes, pepper this dynamic menu. Keep it classic with po boys, blackened fish, fried oysters, gizzards and gumbo. There are plenty of seafood baskets as well, ranging from shrimp to oysters to crawfish. Fusion dishes surprise and delight, with options including Cajun fettuccine Alfredo, loaded crawfish fries, the Crabby Patty burger, the surf and turf, and the rib eye Philly cheesesteak. Sides include dirty rice, Cajun coleslaw, okra and popcorn shrimp. Top off your meal with a drink from the full bar or a dessert like bread pudding or beignets. ree locations in the OKC metro; cajuncornerokc.com

MARY WILLA ALLEN

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