13 minute read
ON THE BRIGHT SIDE Ohio City's Bier Markt and Bar Cento get a new look — and taste.
FIRST LOOK
Silver Lining
Sam McNulty and Mark Priemer's new concept, Bright Side, looks forward with colorful decor and veggie-forward grub while honoring its Bier Markt/Bar Cento roots.
In 2003, Sam McNulty and Mark Priemer first visited the space on Ohio City’s West 25th Street that would become Bier Markt, Bar Cento and Speakeasy. Over the next nearly 20 years, among ghosts of shoppers from Fries and Schuele department store (the early-1900s building’s original occupants), the partners built a Belgian beer bar, one of the city’s premier chef-driven concepts and a basement party hotspot in a space that nodded to its past. From this home base, the team launched Market Garden Brewery across the street, Nano Brew a few doors down and the Market Garden production facility behind it.
But in October, the team announced the restaurants at 1948 W. 25th St. would close and reopen with a new restaurant concept upstairs and a new bar downstairs in 2022.
Now, the silver lining has finally come — and it’s quite bright. Priemer and McNulty’s new restaurant concept Bright Side opened in June with Bird of Paradise, a tropicalthemed basement bar, following suit in July. Bright Side’s welcoming space is totally revamped with an open concept, warm colors and soft lighting. Its menu offers fresh, casual shareables and veggie-forward bites. Still, both the space and the menu nod to the past with the iconic gold ceilings and classic dishes, such as the beloved runny-yolk-and-pancetta Sunnyside Pizza ($19) and the garlicky pommes frites ($13).
Here’s everything you need to know about the new concept from Priemer and McNulty.
The Space. In just over 100 days, McNulty and Priemer's team transformed the former department store into a modern oasis. The previous spot used many original features, such as display cases that were turned into booths. It was cool but a bit imposing, closing off Partners Ciara Ahern, the main dining Andrew Bower, Sam McNulty and Mark space from the Priemer team up on street. “All of Bier branding and bites. Markt was kind of built around preserving and showcasing the history of that space,” says Ciara Ahern, a partner at Bright Side and owner/founder of Sixth Element marketing, which helped bring the brand to life. “But there are challenges when you try to turn a department store into a restaurant.”
The goal of the new approach was to activate the front of the restaurant by opening it up and adding a centered, 44seat island bar that greets guests as they walk through the door. Soft lighting of pastel pink and orange and motifs of gold — most visible in the rose gold disco balls, the light fixtures and the penny tile bar base — are accented by earth tones like natural wood floors and forest green tiles — all of which conveys positivity, optimism and inclusivity.
Natural light streams in from retractable windows, which open to the sidewalk, patio space and streetside parklets. Colorful up-lit half-circle booths face inward toward the party. The back room darkens a bit with another bar, funky garden wallpaper and a jaguar statue overlooking diners. The main floor holds about 220 guests.
Gold, inspired by the original gold foil ceilings, is a motif across Bright Side, though the rose gold disco ball hints at modernity.
The Drinks. While you may feel like a fool not drinking one of the 12 Market Garden Brewery beers on tap, such as the Prosperity Wheat ($6) or the MGB-made Magis Hard Cider ($6) with Ohio apples, a menu including four rotating local craft brews and a champagne-forward list of cocktails and wines might make you want to get a little silly.
The basement, formerly Speakeasy, has become Bird of Paradise. This vacation-themed craft cocktail bar serves a double purpose, allowing diners to pass the time if there's a wait at the reservationfree upstairs restaurant and, later, turning up the party with DJs and dancing.
The Food. Chef-partner Andrew Bower, who started at Bar Cento as a line cook in 2010, has approached rebuilding the food program at the West 25th space with reverence.
“This is the place that’s always felt most home to me in the kitchen,” says Bower, who is running the kitchen with Steve Schimoler, also chef partner. “The smell of garlic, rosemary, duck fat and pork fat is just a fond memory. So, it means a lot to me to be able to be in here as the space is being upgraded and get to be the person who’s doing it.”
With a shareable modern American menu, Bower wants diners to come with friends and order a handful of different snacks — we're eyeing the baby middleneck clams ($15) and the crispy deviled eggs ($10) — as opposed to typical entree dining, though heartier dishes, such as the Sexy Smokey Chimichurri Chicken ($28) and the rib steak ($42), do exist. Despite its Midwest meat roots, the eatery is leaning into the veg life with plant-forward experiences such as the veggie charcuterie board ($28), featuring housemade pickled veggies (such as Bower’s great-grandma’s pickle recipe) and vegan corn chips and avocado dip ($10). The tremendous tuna tartare ($19), served on shrimp chips and covered in roe and refreshing hits of lime, cilantro and avocado, or the spring harvest bucatini pasta ($21), with pea shoots, mushrooms, asparagus, mint and turnip puree, make it easy to abandon our carniverous ways.
House-made pastas, including the cacio e pepe gnocchi ($19), sit alongside five specialty pizzas, like the vegan veggie ($16) with grilled asparagus and roasted mushrooms and the spicy chicken ($17) with jalapeno basil chicken sausage and sun-dried tomatoes. And of course, there's that beloved Sunnyside Pizza ($19). Still, Bower has updated the dough with a naturally leavened approach thanks to a thriving sourdough starter (yes, the result of a pandemic hobby).
Ahead of the restaurants' June opening, what was Bower most looking forward to about the revitalization of the space and the kitchen that means so much to him?
WHEN YOU GO
Dining Guide
A GUIDE TO EATING AND DRINKING ALONG DETROIT SHOREWAY
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ALL SAINTS PUBLIC HOUSE WHY WE LOVE IT: This English-inspired upscale pub is a neighorhood gem. TRY THIS: The Spaghett ($7) is a playful mix of a Miller High Life, Italian Aperol Spritz
and fresh lemon. 1261 W. 76th St., Cleveland, 216-675-0028, allsaintspublichouse.com
AMBA WHY WE LOVE IT: Chef Douglas Katz's Indian fusion restaurant impresses with small plates and cocktails. TRY THIS: The grilled chicken tikka ($17) comes in a spicy, creamy sauce. 1430
ASTORIA CAFE & MARKET WHY WE LOVE IT: Chef Cory Kobrinski's made-to-order Mediterranean cuisine soars thanks to ingredients from the in-house market. TRY THIS: The veal, lamb and ricotta meatballs ($28) are served over the chef’s choice of pasta with a house-made tomato sauce.
5417 Detroit Ave., Cleveland, 216-266-0834, astoriacafemarket.com
BEET JAR JUICEBAR AND TAKEAWAY WHY WE LOVE IT: This hip grab 'n' go features a 100% vegan concept poised to push the culinary world forward. TRY THIS: The Bravocado sandwich ($10) is an elevated take on avocado toast with smoked coconut, a house-made cashew mayo, red onion, a spring vegetable mix and, of course, avocado.
1432 W. 29th St., Cleveland, beetjar.com
BIG MAMMA’S BURRITOS WHY WE LOVE IT: This late-night burrito joint is a staple of multiple Ohio college towns but most known for its original location in Athens. “We make every burrito fresh for you, exactly how you want it, no matter your palate or diet,” says co-owner and O.A.R. saxophonist Jerry DePizzo. TRY THIS: The chipotle ranch burrito ($7.95), made with a house sauce, is a fan favorite.
6604 Detroit Ave., Cleveland, 216-308-0993, bigmammasburritos.com
BLUE HABANERO WHY WE LOVE IT: Owner Rafael Ayala’s choice to break away from the family business, Tres Potrillos, and open his own spot paid off at this hub for tacos, burritos, fajitas and margaritas. TRY THIS: The Tacos Huitlacoche (pronounced wheet-la-KO-chay) ($15) center around the “Mexican truffle” but also features corn, tomatoes, avocado, queso and a house-made spicy sauce.
6416 Detroit Ave., Cleveland, 216-465-1818, bluehabanerocleveland.com
CLEVELAND BAGEL CO. WHY WE LOVE IT: While you can now find these bagels in coffee shops and breakfast spots across the Cleveland area, the hous e-made dough and schmear is always freshest at the original location. TRY THIS: Get a little spicy in the morning with the chorizo chipotle schmear ($4). 4201 Detroit Ave.,
FLIGHT CLEVELAND WHY WE LOVE IT: On a quest to make wine less pretentious, owner Lindsay Smith launched an Insta-worthy wine shop and bar with 37 wines on tap, 13 specialty flights and over 400 different bottles available for purchase. “I wanted to come up with something approachable,” she says. TRY THIS: Mayu’s Pedro Ximenez ($15 per bottle) white dry wine, made with 100% Spanish grapes, carries notes of
citrus and fruit. 5712 Detroit Ave., Cleveland, 216-400-6867, flightcleveland.com
HAPPY DOG WHY WE LOVE IT: Cleveland’s neighborhood bar has a live performance lineup that ranges from punk to podcasts. TRY THIS: Build your own hot dog ($7) with fruit loops, mac 'n' cheese and more, but don't forget the tots ($5) with dozens of
dipping sauces. 5801 Detroit Ave., Cleveland, 216-651-9474, happydogcleveland.com THE HARP WHY WE LOVE IT: One of Cleveland’s best Irish pubs features one of the city's best skyline views. TRY THIS: Powers Whiskey spices up the Irish Mule ($10). 4408 De-
troit Ave., Cleveland, 216-939-0200, the-harp.com
IL RIONE WHY WE LOVE IT: The East Side's Little Italy is better known, but the West Side's has arguably the city's best brick oven pizza. TRY THIS: Drizzled arugula pesto, fried sage leaves, and basil complete the
Green Pie ($16-$21). 1303 W. 65th St., Cleveland, 216-282-1451, ilrionepizzeria.com
JUKEBOX WHY WE LOVE IT: This Hingetown bar centers around the city's best jukeboxes. TRY THIS: Pierogies such as mushroom kraut, sweet potato black bean and buffalo chick pea ($8.50) stand out on a menu of Eastern European classics. 1404 W. 29th
St., Cleveland, 216-206-7699, jukeboxcle.com
GOOD COMPANY WHY WE LOVE IT: Good Company elevates All-American grub with local ingredients, scratch cooking and vegetarian options. TRY THIS: The Plum Chicken ($14) tops fried chicken with malted pickles, shredded lettuce, an American cheese sauce and roasted red pepper mayo on housemade brioche toast. The chicken can be substituted for black beans or a chickpea patty ($1).
1200 W. 76th St., Cleveland, 216-331-0318, goodcompanycle.com
LARDER DELICATESSEN AND BAKERY WHY WE LOVE IT: This modern Eastern European deli and bakery has earned James Beard award noms for its oldschool, local approach to food. TRY THIS: You can’t go wrong with the classic pastrami sandwich ($12): sliced brisket, sauerkraut and mustard on
fresh-baked rye. 1455 W. 29th St., Cleveland, 216-912-8203, larderdb.com
LUXE KITCHEN AND LOUNGE WHY WE LOVE IT: Luxurious but not pretentious was the aim, and Luxe is game with its upscale, modern take on Italian and Mediterranean dishes. TRY THIS: The spicy sausage pizza ($17) also features sweet piquillo peppers, housemade hot sauce and caramelized fennel and onion on Pomodoro sauce with a handful of imported Italian mozzarella
sprinkled on top. 6605 Detroit Ave., Cleveland, 216-920-0600, luxecleveland.com
NINJA CITY WHY WE LOVE IT: Ninja City's unique concept combines Asian cuisine, bar food and a full-service bar with urban street art murals coating the walls. TRY THIS: A fresh French baguette hugs pickled veggies, BBQ pulled pork and chili aioli in this Banh Mi sandwich
STONE MAD PUB WHY WE LOVE IT: Opened in 2008, this Irish neighborhood pub is still somehow a hidden gem with great food, extensive beer offerings, a handmade interior and a beautiful stone patio. While it's always worth checking out, the St. Patrick's Day Party is not to be missed. TRY THIS: An Irish classic, the Shepherd’s Pie ($15) is everything you would
expect from an Irish pub. 1306 W. 65th St., Cleveland, 216-281-6500, stonemadpub.com
PARKVIEW NITE CLUB WHY WE LOVE IT: This “cool place for shady people” is a chill dive that welcomes all with live blues, traditional American eats and an old-timey tavern vibe. TRY THIS: Start with fried cheese ($8.25), crispy, hand-breaded wedges of provolone cheese served with marinara dipping sauce. 1261 W. 58th St.,
Cleveland, 216-961-1341, parkviewniteclub.com
READY SET COFFEE ROASTERS WHY WE LOVE IT: After starting in a garage, this small-batch coffee bar has graduated to a permanent home in 2021. TRY THIS: Hot or cold, the Black Cat Mocha ($5) kickstarts your morning with house chocolate syrup, vanilla, steamed oat milk and a delightful “chocolate surprise.” 7306 Detroit Ave.,
Cleveland, 216-736-8601, readysetcoffee.com
RINCON CRIOLLO WHY WE LOVE IT: For 15 years, the Ruiz family has offered homespun recipes and made-from-scratch Puerto Rican cuisine. TRY THIS: The El Famoso Jibarito ($6.50) is a sandwich with protien (chicken, pork, fish or ham), tomatoes, Swiss cheese, lettuce and mayo between two crispy fried green plan-
tains. 6504 Detroit Ave., Cleveland, 216-9390992, rinconcriollocle.com
SAUCY BREW WORKS WHY WE LOVE IT: This Hingetown favorite pumps out award-winning craft brews and pizza. Don’t neglect the dog-friendly Vibe Garden patio space in the center of Hingetown. TRY THIS: Coffee- and chili-braised beef, roasted pepper queso, smoked shredded cheese and parsley coat a generous bed of kettle chips in the Cowboy TERRESTRIAL BREWING CO. WHY WE LOVE IT: If the massive patio, industrial taproom and canine friendliness wasn't enough, Battery Park’s brewery is expanding to bring a food program and live events to the space. TRY THIS: The Space Chimp Wit OG ($6) is brewed with orange and corian-
der. 7524 Father Frascati Drive, Cleveland, 216465-9999, terrestrialbrewing.com
TINA’S NITE CLUB WHY WE LOVE IT: Karaoke is far from our most embarrassing story after nights of swigging domestics at this glorious hole in the wall. TRY THIS: These days, local beers flow at dives, too, with selections from Great Lakes Brewing Co. sitting right around $4. 5400 Herman Ave.,
Cleveland, 216-651-8057
TOAST WHY WE LOVE IT: The former Biley’s Bakery sources food and wine from local purveyors and farmers. TRY THIS: The asparagus risotto ($13-$27) is made with locally sourced asparagus from Rittman Orchards. 1365 W. 65th St.,
Cleveland, 216-862-8974, toastcleveland.com
XYZ THE TAVERN WHY WE LOVE IT: With 24 craft beers on tap and more than 100 whiskeys and bourbons on the shelf, don’t get fooled into thinking this is just a tavern. A backyard smoker kicks out barbecue platters and sandwiches. TRY THIS: The smoked salmon BLT ($13) comes with a hunk of pork belly. 6419 Detroit Ave.,
Cleveland, 216-706-1104, xyzthetavern.com
WANT MORE?
Check out more recommendations at
clevelandmagazine.com/food-drink
