5 minute read
LiveWell
The two saw a dearth of biscuit concepts in Columbus, so they opened the pop-up in summer 2020. (After months of growing menus and sellout weekends, Boxwood Biscuit Co. moved into its own space in the Short North Arts District in March 2021.) To initially develop the menu, the owners tapped Tyler Minnis, who they knew as chef at The Market Italian Village.
The name of the game, of course, is biscuits, and Minnis serves his flaky, golden brown biscuits in sandwiches, although they stand on their own, especially fresh from the oven.
“They are so hot, light and airy, they are great just plain with nothing on them,” Minnis says.
And is it really a biscuit joint if there’s not gravy? Boxwood offers a choice of expertly crafted gravies: a pork sausage miso (Minnis’ favorite), vegan Impossible sausage miso, red eye made with Thunderkiss Coffee, a truffle creamed spinach and a rotating special. Diners can even order a flight of three gravies to go with their biscuits.
Where Boxwood Biscuit Co. really shines is the handheld biscuit sandwiches. Minnis and Williams Pierce recommend The Franklin. Minnis composes the sandwich, which is really more of a knife-and-fork affair, with a baked egg, bacon, American cheese, caramelized onions, a tangy house “fancy sauce,” plus a scoop of the miso pork gravy and a drizzle of maple syrup.
Boxwood also serves wonderful fried chicken sandwiches, filling a potato roll or biscuit with combinations like The Simple Jack (chicken, dill pickles, fancy sauce and Sriracha ranch dust), The Firebird (hot glazed chicken, green goddess ranch and pickled jalapeno) and The Prairie Bird (chicken, bacon, slaw, house Franklin Frisco sauce, American cheese and maple mustard). — Nicholas Dekker
Tasty Tribute
Joshua Posadny’s food truck honors a friend as it delights Toledo-area customers with a lineup of sweet and savory crepes.
As he serves his take on a French culinary classic in and around Toledo, Joshua Posadny is often asked for the story behind his food truck’s name, Lyle’s Crepes. It was inspired by his former co-worker Lyle Overly, a husband, father and Army veteran who became a mentor to Posadny during his first job at Barnes & Noble.
“Not only was Lyle a great friend and jokester, he just had many memorable qualities,” Posadny explains. “He was always laughing, making you laugh.”
In 2018, when deciding on a name that reflected the traits he wanted his business to embody, Posadny opted to pay tribute to his friend, who had died five years earlier.
Lyle’s Crepes operates almost daily. (The food truck’s website and social media feeds share where it will be next.) The truck’s lineup of sweet crepes spans Lemon Berry, Banana Nutella and Strawberry Nutella, while savory options range from Chicken, Bacon, Feta to the Rise and Shine (bacon, egg, guacamole, Colby Jack cheese and pico de gallo topped with cilantro sauce) to Sausage, Egg and Cheese. The truck also sells chicken, chorizo and sweet potato tacos.
“We don’t prespin any of our stuff,” Posadny says of the thin and delicate, pancake-like crepes. “Every time you order a crepe, we spin it right there at the moment you order.” — Tyler Saunders
For more information, visit lylescrepes.com.
DISTINCTLY PARAMOUNT
Cloak & Dagger
This Cleveland spot is rewriting expectations of what a themed cocktail bar can be with its wildly creative cocktails and consummate hospitality.
Once upon a time, there was a very clever book-themed cocktail bar in Cleveland. Co-owner Casey Hughes describes the experience as the unraveling of a story, starting with a page-turner of a bar menu. The ornately illustrated booklet is equal parts thriller, allegory and mystery, teasing out cocktail descriptions that reveal the overarching theme.
Cloak — as the regulars refer to it — fully embodies its literary theme. Old books, vintage furniture and curious objets d’art create the look and feel of a well-loved library. Considerable effort went into crafting an immersive environment that’s both intelligent and comfortable — a perfect foreshadowing of the gustatory exploration to come.
Cocktails change thematically with the seasons — each menu book offers between 10 to 15 — and the bar’s masterful mixologists stray from convention any chance they get. (Select cocktails can be enjoyed to the fullest without alcohol, too.)
Autumn’s Cursed menu explores “cocktail oddities,” spanning unusual or surprising flavor profiles and combinations like the Pain & Sorrow, with popcorn and chile-infused tequila, a smoky elote mezcal, corn syrup and spicy bitters. The Death Roll imagines sushi as a beverage, featuring a house-made blended rum (with sesame, nori, sugar and salt), ginger agave and wasabi, garnished with a nori “fin.”
The winter season menu, Krampus, is named for the menacing creature of German and Austrian folklore and features cocktails that toe the line of mischief and merriment. Hughes’ own creation, Arose Such a Clatter, is a pistachio and sugar cookie whiskey sour, which should solidify her place on the nice list.
In an unexpected plot twist, all of Cloak & Dagger’s drinks and carefully curated food selections are vegan. Vegans and omnivores alike will find the plant-based meat and cheese board a bold move. Heartier entrees include a “fried oyster” mushroom po’ boy and Buffalo-style Fresno chile pepper “chicken” skewers.
“We wanted to work with Chef Todd [Kronika] because of his creativity,” Hughes says. “It matches what we are doing with the bar.” — Lisa Sands
AROSE SUCH A CLATTER
Reservations are recommended. 2399 W. 11th St., Cleveland 44113, 216/795-5657, cloakanddaggercle.com
Made possible by support from:
The Fox Foundation, Inc. The Fairfield County Foundation George and Dollie L. Zimpfer Memorial Fund
fashion&costume
THROUGH JANUARY 2, 2022
Nov 6, 2021 − Jan 2 , 2022
FREE ADMISSION
Wednesday–Friday, 11am–4pm; Sat & Sun, 1–4pm
145 E. Main St. | Lancaster, Ohio | 740-681-1423
