The Inside Story

GET TIPS FROM THE PEOPLE BEHIND THE BOTTLES FOR SALE AT NOTED OHIO WINE STORES AND RESTAURANTS.

BY

NICHOLAS DEKKER

with notable wine stores and we caught up with the people ask how they stock their shelves love about Ohio wines. shortage of options for Ohio bottle shops, and sommeliers consider a variety of factors when choices.

owner of The Ohio Wine Kettering, says he bases his personal experience. “I visit every carry and taste every wine wine to stock on my shelves,” he looking for something that is new to whether it is a new varietal, blend finish for a particular grape. I also stories behind the wine that I winery visits. I want to offer the next best thing to visiting the winery.”

Tatjana Brown, owner of Meza Wine Shop in Westerville, tries to balance out a good variety that appeals to a broad group. “Buying wine for a specialty shop like ours means pushing yourself outside of your own preferences and striking a balance of wines from key regions, a variety of varietals, and having both standard and the more unique varietals represented,” she says.

Likewise, Brian Fife, who’s logged 18 years as a Certified Specialist of Wines and Certified Specialist of Spirits at World Wines & Liquor in Mentor, looks for a mix of price points while also crafting a distinctive selection. “We look for unique wines that are not found in grocery stores,” he adds. “We also consider value. We have an upmarket customer base but try to fill all wine buyer needs.”

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The wines grown right here in Ohio offer a broad appeal to customers. “Ohio wines display a unique profile and are a great example of terroir, showcasing the unique land, climate and viticulture practices surrounding the grapes,” says Taylor Wolf, sommelier at The Refectory, an award-winning French restaurant in Columbus. “I think Ohio’s best features are focusing on East Coast grapes such as Catawba and Concord, especially in sweeter styles. These grape varieties thrive in this area of the country.”

“I like the variety of what I’ve seen across the state as a whole,” adds Donnie Austin, owner of the newly opened Aardvark Wine & Beer in Worthington. “We’ve seen success with vinifera varietals like Riesling and Cabernet Franc, depending on the region and climate exposure. They can often be textbook styles, delicious and broadly appealing.” Fife agrees: “We have numerous producers making stunning Rieslings and Chardonnay. Ohio has a wonderful climate for those styles.”

A Few Ohio Wine Suggestions

If you’re new to Ohio wine, the experts also suggest a variety of wineries across the state, calling them out both for their expert wines, as well as their culinary delights and beautiful settings. Nicholas Uroseva, owner of Cork & Cap Bottle Shop & Tasting Room in Warren, shouts out a few favorites: “We like Laurentia in Madison for its rustic surroundings and its wine and food. Also, Stonegait Winery in Madison for wine, food and outside area. We also like Buccia in Conneaut for the wine.”

“Two local wineries we always enjoy are Ravenhurst Champagne Cellars and Heineman’s Winery,” Wolf adds. “Ravenhurst has some really delicious sparkling varieties of wine featuring Pinot Meunier.”

“Laurentia and M Cellars have been making some quality wines in a variety of styles from their own vineyards,” says Austin. “The tasting rooms are a great experience as well.” Brown considers Ferrante Winery & Ristorante in Geneva a favorite. “They make a great spectrum of wines from sweeter styles such as Ice Wine to drier wines like Pinot Grigio and Chardonnay,” she notes.

Kurtz also says now is the time to visit Henke Winery in Cincinnati. “Joe Henke is retiring this year after making wine for many years,” he says. “He is currently bottling his last vintages of wine that will be available for purchase.” region

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BY ANN FAZZINI

Napa Valley, northern Virginia and southeastern Washington are probably the first places you think of as winemaking hotspots in the U.S. But did you know that Ohio is actually the seventh largest wine-producing state in the country, selling 1.2 million gallons or more than a half-million cases a year? That’s thanks to a “geographical sweet spot” of varied weather conditions, soil types and landscapes — and the economic downturn and shutdowns of the COVID-19 pandemic haven’t slowed down the industry’s growth in Ohio one bit.

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In fact, the last six years have seen a massive boom in Ohio’s wine grape production. The number of wineries has increased 22 percent over the last six years from 265 to 323, and growers and winemakers statewide are expanding and starting businesses with plenty of support from state entities. Wine