QUEEN OF THE NORTH

ΒΥ LINA KAPETANIOU

Aristotelous Square and the pedestrianized street that leads all the way to the Roman Agora.

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THESSALONIKI MIGHT BE the most interesting city in Greece, and keeping this in mind is key to appreciating its peculiarities, tuning into its unique vibe, and discovering the truth (if any exists) behind the clichés that surround it. Is it really Greece’s city for lovers? The most easy-going and yet outgoing? Αre Thessalonians masters of the art of slow living, of enjoying life to the fullest while avoiding stress? Is food a religion to them?

Once you’re there, you’ll find all these answers out for yourself. What I know for a fact, after countless visits, is that Thessaloniki still has a way of astonishing me with both its contradictions and its attractions. It’s a city rich in history, influenced by many different peoples and cultures, its fate and character forged by the sea in more ways than one. It only takes a long walk from its waterfront up to the picturesque district of Ano Poli, the oldest part of the city, to discover just how much Thessaloniki has to offer. You’ll spot Roman-era monuments, Byzantine churches, beautifully restored Eclectic-style buildings, little neighborhood shops, and shopping arcades that time seems to have forgotten, as well as shiny new coffee shops and luxury boutique hotels. Thessaloniki is ancient and modern, Eastern and Western, youthful and old-fashioned, sparkling and run-down, sleepy and restless, and full of creative energy that spawns new ideas. It might also be on the verge of becoming one of the most fascinating city-break destinations in Europe.

A haven for culture

THE OLD PORT has been reclaimed in recent years, with the areas closest to the center now hosting various cultural institutions. The restored warehouses opposite Eleftherias Square are venues for the renowned Thessaloniki International Film Festival, which takes place every November, and for the Thessaloniki Documentary Festival, which is held every March. Nearby is the Cinema Museum of Thessaloniki (Warehouse A, entrance €2, open: Mon-Tue 09:00-15:00, Wed-Fri 09:00-19:00), dedicated to the Greek film history and displaying everything from movie clips to posters and other memorabilia. Next door, you’ll find the Museum of Photography (Warehouse A, entrance €3, open daily except Mon 11:00-19:00), boasting a collection of 90,000 photographs dating from the late 19th to the early 21st century. Its current exhibition, dedicated to the philhellene French-Swiss photographer Fred Boissonnas and running until February 12th, 2023, is one of the cultural highlights of the year for the city. Just across the dock, you’ll find MOMus - Experimental Center for the Arts (for info, see page 74), a home for many different innovative forms of artistic expression.

On sunny days, the Old Port atttracts a diverse crowd.

At the water's edge

THE NEA PARALIA (“NEW WATERFRONT”) is a threekilometer waterfront promenade and one of the city’s most beloved outdoor spaces; it was a particularly popular destination during the COVID pandemic, when restaurants and other leisure and entertainment options were unavailable to the public. Running from the White Tower to the Concert Hall, it features thematic miniparks, art installations such as the much-photographed Umbrellas by Yorgos Zongolopoulos, and many spots to rest and take in the view. Morning and afternoon, this long walkway is flooded with people of all ages who come here to stretch their legs, ride bicycles or enjoy take-out coffee as they gaze across the Thermaic Gulf, hoping for a glimpse of Mt Olympus in the distance. If you don’t feel like walking, you can start your promenade experience from the Concert Hall, where Thessbike (thessbike.gr) operates a stand with all kinds of bikes for rent, including electric bicycles, two-person and threeperson bikes, and even electric scooters.

Above: George Zongopoulos' work "Umbrellas" has become a symbol of the city. Below: Skateboarders love the New Waterfront.

Journey through history

THIS YEAR, THERE’S A GREAT REASON to start exploring the city at the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki (6 Manoli Andronikou, amth.gr, entrance €4, open daily 8:30-15:30), as it celebrates its 60th anniversary with a thrilling exhibition chronicling the most important moments in the city’s history. What’s more, the museum building itself is a historical city landmark in its own right, a prime example of 1960s modernism designed by the distinguished architect Patroklos Karantinos. Turn to page 95 to discover more.

A marble rendering of Alexander the Great, from the Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki.

The view from the old city walls is impressive.

A square in the heart

IN 1917, THE CENTER OF THESSALONIKI was ravaged by a terrible fire that burned almost a third of the city. Reconstruction began soon afterward, and the French architect Ernest Hebrard redesigned the city center. The centerpiece of his urban plan, implemented only in part, is Aristotelous Square and the pedestrianized street of the same name. The southwestern flank of the square ends just a few meters from the sea; Aristotelous Street runs from the opposite end of the square north to the Roman Agora. On the square itself, you’ll find the Electra Palace Hotel and, facing it, the Cine Olympion, headquarters for the Thessaloniki International Film Festival. Both buildings feature cafés with views over the imposing square and the Thermaic Gulf.

The city from above

THE NORTHERNMOST SECTION of Thessaloniki is an elevated area called Ano Poli, or Upper Town; it’s one of the few areas to survive the horrific fire of 1917. Here you can still see buildings that predate that disaster, but in order to do so, you’ll have to climb a little. However, what you’ll discover here, along with the views of Thessaloniki that you’ll enjoy, will certainly be worth the effort. Find your way to the Church of Aghios Dimitrios, dedicated to the city’s patron saint, and head uphill for 400 meters to Terpsitheas Square, where you’ll see an octagonal domed building, the mausoleum of Musa Baba, a Muslim saint of the Order of Bektashi Dervishes. A bit higher up lies Tsitsanis Square, with a statue of the famed musician Vasilis Tsitanis, and many traditional coffee shops and tavernas where you can catch your breath and enjoy a drink. You’re near the city’s great Byzantine walls, part of its medieval fortifications. Seek out the main gate, known as Portara, where Akropoleos Street runs into the old fortified district of Ano Poli, and then turn left for the restaurant Koukida sta Kastra (13 Agrafon), which serves outstanding fish and meat dishes.

Historical walks

THE OTHER IMPORTANT PEDESTRIANIZED stretch of road in the city is Dimitriou Gounari Street, known by everyone as Navarinou, near the city’s two universities. Depending on the time of day, you’ll come across crowds of students heading for Navarinou’s bookstores, or picking up something to eat on the trot from the dozens of fast food outlets that operate here. One way to see this street is to start from the Arch of Galerius (also called the Kamara), or the Rotunda next to it. Halfway to the shore as you head south lies the Palace of Galerius. Together, these structures form the Galerian Complex, the most important group of monuments in the city. Construction began at the end of the 3rd century, when the Roman Emperor Galerius chose Thessaloniki as the seat of the eastern part of the Roman Empire. The Palace was the residence of the Emperor, the Kamara is the arch built by Galerius to commemorate his victory against the Persians, and it’s believed that the Rotunda was initially built as a church, mausoleum or throne room. Whatever its original purpose, this circular structure remains impressive. Further south is recently renovated Fanarioton Square, with a statue dedicated to the women of Epirus who resisted the Germans during the Second World War. From here, it’s just a short walk to the Nea Paralia and the White Tower, the city’s most famous landmark.

Right: The remains of the Palace of Galerius. Left: The Arch of Galerius, also called Kamara.

Dimitriou Gounari Street and The Rotunda.

© SAKIS GIOUMPASIS, AFP,SIME/VISUALHELLAS.GR

On Athonos Street, basket weavers and other craftspeople ply their trades.

In the markets of the world

THESSALONIKI WAS ONCE A CENTER OF TRADE, with merchants hawking wares from across the ancient world. Today, traces of this great past can still be found behind modern corporate buildings and down lanes running off wide avenues. On both sides of Aristotelous Street are alleyways and side streets where locals shop for their everyday needs, buying meat, nuts, spices, fruits and vegetables from establishments little changed over the decades. This part of town is lively and loud, just as a living city should be. Here the Kapani Market has been operating for more than two centuries; today, it offers everything from clothes and souvenirs to fish, olive oil and cheeses. The covered Modiano market, which lies south of Kapani, opened for the first time in 1930 and was declared a historic landmark in 1995. It recently reopened after years of disuse, and now, newly renovated, is home to almost 70 businesses, including both café-restaurants and grocery stores. On the other side of Aristotelous Street is Athonos Square, with workplaces for carpenters, ironmongers and locksmiths. You’ll also find small shops selling chairs, stools, and other wood items, as well as many stores selling foodstuffs. Harilaos (24 Vatikiotou) roasts and sells fresh nuts sourced from all over Greece, as it has for nearly half a century. There are many tavernas and restaurants in this area, too. Locals crowd the tables at Katsamaka which serves gyro, kokoretsi (lamb or goat intestines wrapped around seasoned offal) and kontosouvli (slow roasted pork on a skewer).

Far left: Fresh nuts and dried fruit at Harilaos. Left: Busy Tsimiski Street.