A World of Greens

Smart cooks in every culinary tradition have been creating meals from leaves since pre-history. Back when humans were hunter-gatherers, guring out which leaves were good to eat would have been an essential skill, and edible leaves would be a forager’s snack. We have been cultivating them for at least 2,000 years, selecting the traits we enjoy, and every region of the world has favorites. Over all that time, cooks have also gotten really good at making them delicious. And thanks to our diversity, Americans have access to many greens of the world.

In China, bok choy, gai lan, choy sum and amaranth are popular greens you may nd in the local market. Stir-frying, simmering and above all, pickling are common ways of preparing “leafies,” and salted, pickled greens are added to many dishes.

In Africa, sorrel, collards, taro, cassava and sweet potato leaves are just a few of the many varieties of leafy greens eaten. The low-and-slow stewing of greens that we associate with Southern cookery came from African traditions.

In India, spinach, water spinach, mustard greens, fenugreek leaves, purslane and nettles are some standouts in a crowded field of greens. They are enhanced by the nuanced spice combinations of Indian cooks, and a famous dish, saag paneer, originated in the Punjab, resembling creamed spinach, with cheese.

In Mexico, chard, beet greens, watercress, squash leaves, lamb’s quarters and amaranth are popular sautéed, or cooked in stews and soups.

Jerk-Rubbed Chicken with Curried Collard Greens

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Chicken leg quarters are affordable and flavorful and deserve to get more play on your menus. Here, the meat is slashed so it will get a good coating of spices and to cook more quickly. The curried collards add a creamy counterpoint to the spicy chicken and have enough lush sauce to enliven a side of rice or flatbreads.

1teaspoon ground allspice

1teaspoon ground black pepper

1teaspoon ground cloves

2teaspoons dried thyme

1teaspoon paprika

½teaspoon ground nutmeg

½teaspoon ground cinnamon

½teaspoon cayenne

1teaspoon salt

6chicken leg quarters

2tablespoons avocado oil, divided

1medium lime, juiced

For the Greens

2cups coconut milk

1bunch (about 6) scallions, chopped

2cloves garlic, chopped

2tablespoons curry powder

1large jalapeño, seeded and chopped

1bunch collard greens, stemmed and slivered, reserve stems for another use

1medium red bell pepper, thinly sliced ¾teaspoon salt

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Spread ½ tablespoon avocado oil on a baking pan large enough to hold the chicken quarters.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the spices and salt. Mix well.

3. For chicken, use a sharp paring knife to cut slashes into the meat, to the bone, in a couple of places on each leg and thigh. Sprinkle lime juice over the chicken and rub it in, then the spice mixture. Rub it into the slashes.

Place the chicken on the prepared baking sheet and drizzle with remaining 1½ tablespoons oil. Roast for 20 minutes, until a thick part of the thigh registers 160°F on a meat thermometer and the juices run clear when pierced.

4. For the Greens: Place a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat and pour in the coconut milk. Stir in the scallions, garlic and curry powder, and bring to a low boil. Add the jalapeño, collards, red bell pepper and salt and stir until the greens wilt and turn dark green. Reduce the heat to medium-low and stir frequently for about 8 minutes, until the greens are very tender. Serve about ¼ cup of the greens on each plate, topped with a leg quarter.

JERK-RUBBED CHICKEN WITH CURRIED COLLARD GREENS

Salmon and Broccoli Raab Pan Bagnat

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

Pan bagnat is French for “bathed bread,” and refers to the way the vinaigrette soaks into the bread as it sits under a weight. The French classic is usually made with tuna, but here we use salmon and add a hefty portion of leafy greens. Peppery radishes and fragrant basil make this a sandwich to remember.

3 cups broccoli raab (or sub Tuscan kale), coarsely chopped

1 (6-ounce) can salmon, drained

3 medium red radishes, thinly sliced

2 large hard-boiled eggs, peeled and coarsely chopped

½ cup grape tomatoes, sliced

2 tablespoons kalamata olives, sliced

1 cup fresh basil, slivered

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic, chopped or pressed

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 (1-pound) loaf ciabatta

1. Set a steamer over simmering water. Steam raab about 2 minutes. Drain, spread on a clean kitchen towel and roll up to dry completely.

2. Break up the salmon into a large bowl and add the cooled greens. Add radish, eggs, tomatoes, olives and basil.

3. In a cup, whisk the red wine vinegar, olive oil, garlic, salt and red pepper flakes, and pour over the salmon mixture, and toss to mix. Let marinate at room temperature while you slice the bread.

4. Split the loaf lengthwise. Carefully tear out about ½ cup from the center of the bread to make room for the filling. Place on a large sheet of waxed paper or plastic wrap. Stuff the filling into the bread, close it, and wrap tightly. Place the loaf under a weight like a cast iron pan for about 15 minutes, then refrigerate until time to serve. It can be made up to 2 days ahead. To serve, slice into 4 or 6 portions. ■

NUTRITION (PER SERVING)

ARUGULA PASTA SALAD WITH LEMONROSEMARY CHICKEN

CALORIES: 520, FAT: 17G (SAT: 3.5G), CHOLESTEROL: 65 MG, SODIUM: 620 MG, CARB: 62G, FIBER: 4G, SUGAR: 5G, PROTEIN: 32G

SPINACH TABOULI

CALORIES: 340, FAT: 20G (SAT: 3G), CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 390 MG, CARB: 36G, FIBER: 7G, SUGAR: 3G, PROTEIN: 7G

AVOCADO-FISH TACOS WITH KALE SLAW

CALORIES: 370, FAT: 28G (SAT: 4.5G), CHOLESTEROL: 50 MG, SODIUM: 860 MG, CARB: 13G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 1G, PROTEIN: 19G

JERK-RUBBED CHICKEN WITH CURRIED COLLARD GREENS

CALORIES: 520, FAT: 43G (SAT: 23G), CHOLESTEROL: 105 MG, SODIUM: 810 MG, CARB: 17G, FIBER: 9G, SUGAR: 5G, PROTEIN: 24G

SALMON AND BROCCOLI RAAB PAN

BAGNAT

CALORIES: 280, FAT: 10G (SAT: 1.5 G), CHOLESTEROL: 85 MG, SODIUM: 670 MG, CARB: 31G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 2G, PROTEIN: 15G