On the Road Again

SLOW-COOKED BARBECUE SPARERIBS (RECIPE PAGE 31)

Take a culinary tour by cooking up regional specialties from across the U.S.

BY MOLLY STEVENS

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS

SLOW-COOKED BARBECUE SPARERIBS

One of the best parts of any road trip is stopping to sample local fare along the way, but it would require a lifetime of travel—and no small amount of expense—to explore all the culinary riches that the U.S. has to offer. Our solution? Visit new regions from the comfort of your own kitchen with these go-to meals inspired by several of our favorite culinary destinations. From the bounty of seafood along the Atlantic shore to the complex cuisine of the Delta, and from the smoky-sweet barbecue of the Great Plains to the chile-spiked dishes of the Southwest, there is much to be discovered and savored—no suitcase required.

Slow-Cooked Barbecue Spareribs

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

Succulent, lip-smackingly good spareribs take time—but they are worth every minute. First, the ribs are coated in a dry rub and refrigerated overnight, then they cook slow-and-low in a gentle oven, and finally get brushed with a thick, spicy-sweet barbecue sauce before being grilled to caramelized perfection. Coleslaw and cornbread make ideal sides for these magnificent Kansas City-style ribs—and don’t forget to put out plenty of napkins.

For the Spice Rub 3 tablespoons brown sugar 2 tablespoons ground coriander 2 tablespoons paprika 1 tablespoon garlic powder 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1½ teaspoons cracked black pepper 1/4 teaspoon cayenne

2 racks pork spareribs (6 to 7 pounds total) 1 cup lager beer (or water)

For the Barbecue Sauce 2 tablespoons butter 1 small onion, finely chopped 2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 tablespoon chili powder 1 tablespoon paprika ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 (14.5-ounce) can crushed tomatoes (with their liquid) or tomato sauce ½ cup ketchup ½ cup cider vinegar 1/4 cup brown sugar 2 tablespoons molasses 2 tablespoons prepared yellow mustard ½ teaspoon Tabasco or other hot sauce, or to taste

1. In a small bowl, mix together all the spice rub ingredients. Massage the rub into the ribs, coating all surfaces. Place on a baking sheet, cover with plastic and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours. 2. Heat the oven to 300°F. Place the ribs in a roasting pan, meat side up. Add the beer (or water) to the pan, cover tightly with foil, and cook until meat is very tender and begins to pull away from the bone, about 2 hours. Uncover and let cool in the pan. (The ribs may be made ahead up until this point, wrapped in foil and refrigerated for up to 2 days. Discard the drippings.) 3. Meanwhile, make the barbecue sauce: Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic, and cook until tender and translucent, about 6 minutes. Add the chili powder, paprika and salt, and stir to combine. Add the tomatoes (or tomato sauce), ketchup, vinegar, brown sugar, molasses, mustard and hot sauce. Bring to a simmer and reduce the heat to low. Cook at a quiet simmer until thick and flavorful, 25 to 30 minutes. 4. Heat a grill to medium-high. Brush the ribs lightly with barbecue sauce. Grill, flipping and basting with more sauce as needed until heated through and sizzling, 8 to 12 minutes total. Transfer to a cutting board and cut between the bones. Heat any remaining barbecue sauce until warm and serve alongside the ribs.

Cook’s Notes:

• Spareribs come from the belly portion of the pig, and they are heftier—and meatier—than baby back ribs, making them more suitable for a main course. Shop for slabs that look well-trimmed with plenty of lean meat. • If you don’t have access to an outdoor grill (or if the weather won't cooperate), you can finish the ribs in the oven: Heat the oven to 475°F. Brush the ribs lightly with barbecue sauce and arrange them on a baking sheet. Cook, turning once or twice, until sizzling and browned, about 15 minutes. • If you’re short on time, you can substitute a favorite storebought barbecue sauce; you’ll need about 2 cups (16 ounces).

Crab Cakes with Old Bay Remoulade

MAKES 8 CRAB CAKES (SERVES 8 AS AN APPETIZER, 4 AS A MAIN COURSE)

These crab cakes are the real deal—wall-to-wall crabmeat with a minimum of fillers and no fancy seasonings to overwhelm their sweet, delicate taste. A single cake makes an elegant appetizer with nothing more than a dollop of the spicy remoulade, or serve two per person accompanied by a fresh tomato salad and buttered corn on the cob for a dinner that will transport you to the Mid-Atlantic shore.

1 pound lump crabmeat (see Cook’s Notes) 1 large egg 1/4 cup mayonnaise 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/2 cup fresh breadcrumbs or cracker crumbs (see Cook’s Notes) 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 2 scallions, white and pale green part, minced 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus about 2 teaspoons (or cooking spray) for pan

For the Remoulade 1/4 cup mayonnaise 1/2 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest 3/4 teaspoon fresh lemon juice 1/2 teaspoon minced or grated garlic dash hot sauce, to taste salt and pepper, to taste

1. Drain the crabmeat, if necessary, and place in a large mixing bowl. Pick through for shells. 2. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg, mayonnaise, mustard, Old Bay, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Pour over the crabmeat and toss gently with your fingers or a rubber spatula to combine without breaking up the crab. Sprinkle over the breadcrumbs (or cracker crumbs), parsley and scallions, and mix again to combine. Shape into 8 evenly sized cakes and arrange on a large plate or tray. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 3 hours or up to 6 hours. 3. Make the remoulade sauce by combining all the ingredients in a small bowl. Season to taste. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. 4. • If baking crab cakes, heat the oven to 375°F. Butter a baking sheet using about 2 teaspoons butter (or cooking spray). Arrange the crab cakes on the prepared baking sheet. Cut the 2 tablespoons butter into 8 slivers and place 1 piece on each crab cake. Bake until heated through and golden, about 20 to 25 minutes. 4. • If sautéing crab cakes, melt the butter in a large non-stick pan over medium heat. When the butter stops foaming, add the cakes and cook until nicely browned on the first side, about 4 minutes. Carefully flip, reduce the heat to medium-low, and continue to cook until deeply browned and heated through, another 4 to 6 minutes. 5. Serve hot. Pass the remoulade sauce at the table.

Cook’s Notes:

• To make great-tasting crab cakes, you need great-tasting crabmeat, and this means shopping for fresh or pasteurized lump crabmeat, found in the refrigerated seafood section of the market. Avoid claw meat or tins labeled “special,” as the smaller pieces and stronger flavors aren’t suitable for delicate crab cakes. • The best breadcrumbs are made from white sandwich bread. Remove the crusts and pulse a couple of slices in a food processor to make crumbs. If using store-bought breadcrumbs, panko crumbs are best for their light, flaky texture; just be sure they are unseasoned. For cracker crumbs, place a stack of saltines in a heavy plastic bag and crush into coarse crumbs by tapping with a rolling pin.

CRAB CAKES WITH OLD BAY REMOULADE

Chicken Teriyaki Lettuce Wraps

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

These vibrant lettuce wraps pay tribute to the deliciously sticky-sweet teriyaki chicken that’s a street food favorite across the Pacific Northwest. Combining the soy-glazed grilled (or broiled) chicken with plenty of crunchy raw vegetables celebrates the fusion vibe of the region—and makes a refreshingly bright summer meal.

1½ pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs 2 teaspoons finely grated fresh ginger, divided 1½ teaspoons finely grated garlic, divided 1/2 cup soy sauce or tamari, divided 1/3 cup mirin or Sherry 3 tablespoons sugar 1 tablespoon cornstarch 2 tablespoons orange juice, pineapple juice or water 6 ounces dried thin rice noodles (maifun or vermicelli) 2 to 3 heads Bibb or Boston lettuce (16 to 20 leaves) 1 heaping cup shredded carrots 1 medium cucumber, peeled, halved and thinly sliced 16 to 20 sprigs fresh cilantro sprigs 2 scallions, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds

Sriracha, chili paste or other favorite hot sauce

1. Place the chicken in a non-reactive dish or heavy-duty plastic bag and season with 1 teaspoon grated ginger, 1 teaspoon grated garlic and 2 tablespoons soy sauce (or tamari). Turn to coat and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 6 hours. 2. In a small saucepan, combine the remaining 1 teaspoon grated ginger, remaining 1/2 teaspoon grated garlic, and remaining 6 tablespoons soy sauce with the mirin (or Sherry) and sugar. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until sugar dissolves, about 2 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and juice (or water). Drizzle the cornstarch mixture into the sauce, whisking, and simmer until thickened, about 2 minutes. Set aside at room temperature for up to 6 hours. 3. Just before serving, cook the noodles according to package directions and drain. Divide into 16 to 20 individual nest-like portions or chop coarsely and arrange on a plate. Arrange the lettuce leaves on a platter. Put the carrots, cucumbers, cilantro, scallions and sesame seeds in individual bowls. Warm the sauce if made ahead. 4. Heat a grill (or broiler) to medium-high. Grill (or broil) the chicken about 3 minutes per side, brushing lightly with sauce during the last minute of cooking. Transfer to a cutting board and chop into bite-size pieces. 5. Let diners build their own wraps by filling the lettuce leaves in the following order: noodles, chicken, carrots, cucumbers, cilantro, scallions, sesame seeds, a thin drizzle of sauce and hot sauce to taste.

Cook’s Notes:

• Lettuce wraps are a fun do-it-yourself way to serve dinner, but if you’re looking for a more controlled presentation (and one that doesn’t require diners to assemble their own plates), skip the lettuce wraps and serve the chicken and toppings over the noodles. You can turn this recipe into a rice bowl by substituting plain cooked rice for the noodles. • To make the noodle nests, use a table fork to twirl a bite-size portions of noodles into a little swirl. Each nest should be about the size of a walnut.

SHRIMP CREOLE

Shrimp Creole

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Plump, tender shrimp bathed in a piquant tomato-based sauce makes a memorable summer meal to enjoy on the porch with a little Zydeco music floating through the air. The velvety sauce gets its characteristic flavor from a base of gently sautéed onion, celery and bell peppers—a combination known in the Delta as the “holy trinity.”

4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 cup diced yellow onion 1 cup diced celery 1 cup diced red bell pepper 1 cup diced green bell pepper 3 to 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 small jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced 1½ teaspoons chopped fresh thyme leaves (or 1/2 teaspoon dried) 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika, hot or sweet 2 tablespoons tomato paste salt and pepper, to taste 1 (14.5-ounce) can diced or crushed tomatoes, with their liquid 1 cup chicken or shrimp broth (see Cook’s Notes) 1 bay leaf 1/2 teaspoon Louisiana-style hot sauce, or to taste 1½ pounds jumbo or extra-large fresh or frozen, thawed, peeled shrimp, deveined and tails removed

cooked rice, for serving 1/4 cup chopped scallion

1. Heat the butter in a large, heavy skillet or saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, red and green pepper, and sauté, stirring frequently, until softened, about 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic, jalapeño, thyme, paprika, tomato paste and season with salt and pepper. Cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, broth, bay leaf and hot sauce. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, cover, and simmer gently for 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. (The sauce may be made ahead up to this point. Cool, cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day.) 2. Increase the heat to medium and add the shrimp. Simmer, uncovered, until shrimp are cooked through, 4 to 8 minutes, depending on their size (the larger the shrimp, the longer they take to cook). Taste for salt, pepper and hot sauce, and adjust to taste. 3. Spoon shrimp and sauce over cooked rice. Garnish with scallions and serve hot. Pass hot sauce at the table.

Cook’s Notes:

• Extra-large or jumbo shrimp make this fancy enough for a dinner party, but the recipe also works beautifully with medium size; just adjust the cooking time accordingly. Jumbo or extra-large shrimp will take about 8 minutes to cook through, while medium will take closer to 4 minutes. • For an even more flavorful sauce, buy shell-on shrimp and use the shells to make a quick shrimp broth. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a small pot over medium-high heat. Add 1/4 cup thinly sliced shallot or onion and sauté, stirring until starting to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the shrimp shells and cook, stirring, until they turn pink, another 1 to 2 minutes. Add 2 cups water and 1 small bay leaf. Simmer gently for 30 minutes. Strain. Refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for 3 months.

Green Chile Cheeseburgers

MAKES 6 BURGERS

Variations of green chile cheeseburgers prevail throughout the Southwest, but they all have one thing in common: roasted New Mexican chiles piled high on a meaty cheeseburger. This version dials up the flavor quotient even further by spicing up the burger and rounding out the toppings with the sweetness of a grilled onion. The result? A magnificent amalgam of juicy beef, melty cheese, sweet heat and irresistible flavor.

1¼ cups coarsely chopped fire-roasted green chiles, preferably New Mexican Hatch (see Cook’s Notes), divided 2 pounds ground chuck, preferably 80 percent lean 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro 1½ teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 large red or sweet onion, peeled and sliced into rings 1 teaspoon olive or vegetable oil 6 to 12 slices pepper jack or Monterey Jack cheese (see Cook’s Notes) 6 hamburger rolls, preferably brioche 2 tablespoons butter, room temperature sliced tomatoes, for serving lettuce, for serving

1. Measure out about 1/4 cup chiles and chop into 1/4-inch pieces. Set the rest aside. 2. Break the ground chuck into 1- to 2-inch bits and drop into a mixing bowl. Add the 1/4 cup chopped chiles, cilantro, cumin, chili powder and salt. Mix gently to incorporate the seasonings without compressing the meat. Shape into burgers, about 3/4-inch thick, without compacting. Press a dimple in the center of each burger (which prevents them from puffing up as they cook). 3. Heat a grill, grill pan or heavy skillet to medium hot. Toss the onion rings with oil, and cook, turning as needed, until soft and browned, about 6 minutes. Set to the side to keep warm. 4. Arrange the burgers on the grill or in the pan, and cook, flipping as needed, until desired doneness, 6 to 10 minutes. About 1 minute before burgers are done, top with cheese and allow the cheese to melt. Toast the rolls while the cheese melts—on the edge of the grill if grilling, or under the broiler if cooking indoors. 5. Butter the rolls and top the burgers with roasted chiles, grilled onion, tomato and lettuce. Serve immediately.

Cook’s Notes:

• The traditional green chile used to make chile cheeseburgers are New Mexican chiles—sometimes labeled Hatch chiles after the town where they originated—a variety prized for its earthy flavor and sweet heat. If you can’t find New Mexican chiles, try Anaheim or poblano, or shop for canned fire-roasted green chilies. • If you’re starting with fresh chiles, you’ll need to first roast and peel them. Here’s how: Place the chiles on a hot grill, under the broiler or directly over stovetop flames, turning frequently with tongs, until charred and blistered all over, 6 to 8 minutes. Set aside until just cool enough to handle, about 5 minutes. Cut in half lengthwise, remove the stems and seeds, and scrape away the charred skin with a small knife. Taste a small piece. If the chiles are too spicy for your taste, briefly soak and rinse. Otherwise, do not rinse. The chiles may be roasted and peeled a day in advance. • For the best burger-to-cheese ration, you’ll want about 1 ounce of cheese per burger; this means either 1 thick slice or 2 thin slices. 

GREEN CHILE CHEESEBURGERS

CRAB CAKES W. OLD BAY REMOULADE:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 200; FAT 14g (sat. 4g); CHOL 80mg; SODIUM 520mg; CARB 6g; FIBER 0g; SUGAR 0g; PROTEIN 12g

SLOW-COOKED BARBECUE SPARERIBS:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 1070; FAT 66 (sat. 26g); CHOL 310mg; SODIUM 2270mg; CARB 36g; FIBER 4g; SUGAR 28g; PROTEIN 87g

CHICKEN TERIYAKI LETTUCE WRAPS:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 550; FAT 16g (sat. 5g); CHOL 150mg; SODIUM 2410mg; CARB 64g; FIBER 4g; SUGAR 18g; PROTEIN 41g

SHRIMP CREOLE (W/O RICE):

PER SERVING: CALORIES 300; FAT 14g (sat. 8g); CHOL 245mg; SODIUM 1350mg; CARB 18g; FIBER 5g; SUGAR 8g; PROTEIN 26g

GREEN CHILE CHEESEBURGERS:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 590; FAT 35g (sat. 15g); CHOL 135mg; SODIUM 840mg; CARB 28g; FIBER 2g; SUGAR 7g; PROTEIN 37g