16 minute read
Date Night Dinner
ROAST CHICKEN PIECES WITH MAROON OLIVE BUTTER, AND MASHED CAULIFLOWER WITH PARSLEY
DATE
NIGHT
DINNER
Create a flavorful multi-course meal for you and your special someone
BY SERENA BASS
W hether you and your partner have been together for years or you’re getting to know someone new, a date night dinner at home can be a fun way to create a special evening. In my imagination, this date night is based on a couple who both enjoy cooking and would like some involvement in the meal, even if one person is just helping to chop parsley or spoon cream on the soup. But if it is truly a date and you’re learning about each other, there are a lot of things to talk about and quite a few specific ingredients to like or not like, which is fine. You can decide together about the whole menu and swap out any items one of you doesn’t care for.
The menu itself can be pulled apart and the individual items incorporated in other meals, too. Having spent many years as a caterer, I understand ways to expedite a party are helpful, so a number of items in this menu can be made ahead. Light some candles, uncork a bottle of Sangiovese from Tuscany—where grapes for the wine and black olives for the entrée both grow—and celebrate each other.
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
Garlic Bread
MAKES 2 SERVINGS
This is a wonderful companion to any soup but take care not to eat too much since it is addictive and you’re right at the beginning of the meal.
2 ounces (4 tablespoons or ½ stick) unsalted butter, softened 1 or 2 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed ¼ teaspoon Maldon or sea salt 2 teaspoons minced parsley ¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest 4 or 6 slices French bread
1. Mash the butter, garlic, salt, parsley and lemon zest together and set aside on the counter. 2. Spread the prepared garlic butter on one side of bread slices. Position the rack one-third down from the heat source in your broiler if that is an option. Place bread slices unbuttered side up and broil 2 to 4 minutes, watching carefully until golden brown and slightly charred at the edges. Serve warm.
Baby Green Pea Soup with Marjoram
MAKES ABOUT 4 SERVINGS
This is a flexible and delicious soup. In chilly weather, I use either fresh or dried marjoram. Keep the recipe on hand and it can be served with mint in the spring and summer, and it is just as good chilled as it is warm. For a date night, I would serve no more than ¾ cup of this in a pretty cup on a saucer with a teaspoon on the saucer since soup can fill you up fast and this menu is supposed to showcase a lot of intriguing flavors, not to be a comfort food bonanza.
1 small Vidalia (sweet white) onion, peeled and diced 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter ¾ teaspoon salt 3 cups chicken stock 3 cups (15 ounces) frozen baby peas, warmed under the hot tap (reserve 2 tablespoons peas for garnish) ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram leaves (or 2 teaspoons dried) whipped heavy cream, for garnish (optional) 2 teaspoons chopped fresh marjoram, for garnish
1. Put the onion, olive oil, butter and salt in a pan over medium-low heat. Cover with a lid, or crumpled baking paper and sweat gently without browning for 12 minutes, stirring occasionally. 2. While the onion is cooking, bring the chicken stock to a boil. Add the peas to the onions and stir to coat with oil then pour on the boiling chicken stock. 3. Remove from the heat and set aside for 10 minutes. Add the pepper and blend to a smooth cream in a blender (not a food processor). 4. Spoon on the optional heavy cream, scatter with the marjoram and the reserved peas.
Cook’s Notes
n When buying the peas, look for frozen baby green peas. Larger peas are not as sweet and tender. n If you are cooking onions or garlic and you don’t want them to brown, add salt to them, as that will pull out the water and they will sweat rather than fry. If you do want them to brown, add the salt last. n If you don’t have a blender, you can use a food processor, but the soup will not be as velvety smooth. n The leftover soup will keep in the refrigerator for 2 days or 2 months in the freezer.
GREEN SALAD OF FENNEL, ENDIVE AND ORANGE WITH WHITE BEER DRESSING OR WHITE BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE
MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS
This salad is so fresh, with hints of the bitter endive that has been calmed by the soak in water, mysterious fennel and juicy oranges. I can’t think of a more interesting salad to offer. Serve it with either the White Beer Dressing or the White Balsamic Vinaigrette.
1 small head of fennel 1 fat, firm endive 1 navel orange
1. Using a potato peeler, peel the outside of the fennel as it is often a bit stringy. Cut the fennel in half, then trim the heart of the fennel out and slice the rest as thinly as you can. 2. Pull off 2 or 3 outside leaves of the endive and cut across the endive until you reach the heart, which you’ll discard. Put the cut endive in a bowl of very cold water for 10 minutes, then strain it and scatter over a tea towel. 3. Scatter on the sliced fennel too and roll up the towel. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. 4. Slice off the top and bottom of the orange. Stand on one end and, using a small sharp paring knife, cut the skin and white pith completely off, following the curve of the orange. Discard the skin, white pith and any seeds. 5. Cut the orange into thin slices and set aside in a small bowl until serving time when you will tip the orange into a salad bowl and add the endive and fennel then toss with either of the following dressings.
MAKE-AHEAD MENU ITEMS
Get a step ahead on date night and enjoy more time together the day before your dinner: You can prepare the Baby Green Pea Soup with Marjoram, Mashed Cauliflower with Parsley and Butter and the Delicate Flan in advance. It’s a win-win.
White Beer Dressing
MAKES 1⅛ CUPS (ABOUT 6 SERVINGS)
I discovered a version of this delicious dressing in Bruges, Belgium, where they use a lot more endive than we do and are big fans of creamy dressings. You will only need about 3 or so tablespoons of dressing per serving for the Green Salad of Fennel, Endive and Orange, but this is good on almost any green salad, too. The beer doesn’t taste very alcoholic, just gives a little tang.
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon minced garlic ¼ cup white beer (Hoegaarden is great) 2 teaspoons salt 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper ½ cup heavy cream ¼ cup mayonnaise
1. In a medium bowl whisk together the vinegar, garlic, beer, salt and pepper, and then slowly whisk in the cream and mayonnaise. 2. Store in a covered container in the fridge. This will last for several days.
White Balsamic Vinaigrette
MAKES ABOUT 7 (2-TABLESPOON) SERVINGS
In my world, a vinaigrette that is opaque and creamy is a dressing and one that is thinner, made with oil and vinegar is a vinaigrette. The balance of this dressing is the way I like it, but if you would prefer less honey or hot pepper flakes, go right ahead.
1 cup golden olive oil ¾ cup white balsamic 2 teaspoons sea salt 1 heaping tablespoon honey 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon hot pepper flakes
In a bowl or jar, mix the olive oil, white balsamic, salt, honey, black pepper and pepper flakes.
Cook’s Notes
n This makes a lot but it keeps for 1 month, out of the light. I don’t refrigerate it and it lasts perfectly well. n This is especially good with a salad including fruit, like apples or pears. It is also gorgeous on half an avocado or brushed on grilled slices of French bread. Just shake the vinaigrette well before using to mix everything up.
Roast Chicken Pieces with Maroon Olive Butter
MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS
Get excited about a simple roast chicken with fabulous flavors. If you’ve never had crisp roast chicken with the unexpected tang of buttery Kalamata olives, fresh parsley and lemon, then I think you’re in for a treat. Try to plan so the chicken is salted overnight—it makes a world of difference. You can make the Maroon Olive Butter the day before so you’ll be all organized. Any leftovers are delicious cold for lunch in sandwiches or reheated for another dinner—you can’t go wrong.
1 chicken (preferably organic) cut into 2 thighs, 2 legs and 2 bone-in breasts, each breast cut in half, keeping wings attached. 1 teaspoon salt Maroon Olive Butter (recipe page 27) ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper lemon wedges, for serving 5 Kalamata olives (room temperature), for serving 1 bunch fresh oregano, for serving
1. Position a rack in the middle of the oven and heat to 400°F. Spray a cooling rack with cooking spray (to make washing up easier) and set the rack on a sheet pan. 2. Pat dry the chicken pieces. Trim any excess fat off and sprinkle with the salt. If you have time, leave overnight in the refrigerator, or just set aside for 1 hour (see Cook’s Notes). 3. Ideally, remove from the fridge, pat off any surface moisture, and leave to come to room temperature for 1 hour. 4. Take 1 tablespoon of Maroon Olive Butter per piece of chicken, and rub it all over the chicken then arrange the pieces on the prepared rack on top of the sheet pan. 5. Roast for 30 minutes, removing the breasts at 20 minutes. They can just sit and relax. Remove the legs and thighs from the oven and let stand 15 minutes before serving. 6. Spoon a little extra butter on all the chicken and serve with lemon wedges, scattered olives and oregano stems.
Cook’s Notes
n The purpose of the salt is to draw out the water from the skin so it will brown and crisp up well. n When cutting a wedge of lemon, I always trim the ends off so there is a little flat part for your fingers to hold. It just makes squeezing a wedge easier.
Mashed Cauliflower with Parsley and Butter
MAKES 2 CUPS, 2 TO 4 SERVINGS
Unless you concentrate, you might think this is just mashed potato but then all the interesting flavors come through and you know it is something special.
8 cups cauliflower, cut in bite sized pieces, no stalk (see Cook’s Notes) 2 tablespoons kosher salt, plus more to taste 1½ ounces unsalted butter, at room temperature ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons finely minced parsley, divided
1. Put the cauliflower in a saucepan and add about 6 cups hot tap water until it is just below the cauliflower. 2. Add the 2 tablespoons salt and bring to a boil, then turn down to a good simmer and cook until a sharp knife enters easily, about 15 to 20 minutes. 3. Strain the cauliflower into a sieve and give a good shake then tip the florets out evenly onto a dry dish towel to air dry for 5 minutes. This rest makes for a creamy mash rather than a watery one. 4. Gather up the corners of the towel and transfer the florets to a food processer (not a blender). Add the butter and black pepper, and process until you have a light smooth mash. 5. Return the mash to the saucepan you cooked the cauliflower in and set over a low heat, stirring occasionally until it is hot and you are ready to serve it. 6. Add 1½ tablespoons of parsley and salt to taste (I used ½ teaspoon). 7. Transfer to a warm bowl and serve from that. Use the reserved parsley to scatter over the top as garnish and some on the chicken, if desired.
Cook’s Notes
n Buy 2 heads of cauliflower and cut off florets until you have 8 cups. The remainder can be kept wrapped airtight in a chill drawer for other uses. n Don’t cover the cauliflower (or any vegetable) with extra water as the flavor will wash away. n If you are using Morton’s kosher salt, decrease the amount to 1½ tablespoons, as I think it tastes saltier than some other brands. n Hopefully you have a pepper grinder since preground pepper is a poor substitute. I know from testing that my pepper grinder takes 20 twists to make 1 teaspoon of ground pepper and therefore 10 twists for ½ teaspoon, etc. It’s a useful trick! n Any leftovers are delicious for breakfast or brunch reheated and topped with an egg.
Maroon Olive Butter
MAKES 1½ CUPS (8 TO 10 SERVINGS)
4 ounces (8 tablespoons or 1 stick) unsalted butter, at warm room temperature 6 ounces Kalamata olives, pitted and chopped to make ½ cup 4 teaspoons minced Italian parsley ¼ teaspoon sea salt or Maldon salt 3 strips lemon zest, minced
1. In a small deep bowl, using a metal balloon whisk, beat the butter for about 1 minute until light and creamy. 2. Add the olives, parsley, salt and lemon zest and beat together well. Set aside unrefrigerated.
ROAST CHICKEN PIECES WITH MAROON OLIVE BUTTER, MASHED CAULIFLOWER WITH PARSLEY AND BUTTER
Delicate Flan
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
If I were texting you about this amazing dessert, I would start with OMG. Light, silky, mysteriously scented, I just can’t tell you how excited I was when this innocent little custard was cooked, and I slipped a spoonful in my mouth. It is so delicate you aren’t going to turn it out; just serve it from the cup in which it is cooked.
2 cups 2% milk ½ cup sugar 4 strips lemon zest 6 extra large egg yolks 2 teaspoons pure anise extract ½ teaspoon pure almond extract 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon cinnamon (from a cinnamon stick ground in a spice grinder)
1. Position rack in the bottom third of oven and heat to 300°F. Gather 6 (8-ounce) ramekins and set aside. 2. Put the milk, sugar and lemon zest in a small saucepan over moderate heat and warm until there are small bubbles around the edge of the milk. Remove from the heat and set aside for 20 minutes to infuse the lemon zest. 3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the yolks, extracts and cinnamon. Strain the warm milk then add to the yolks whisking as you pour. Using a ½ cup measure, pour the custard into the ramekins. 4. Set ramekins in a container (I use a 9 x 13-inch pan) and add hot water to ½-inch deep. Cover the pan with foil just crimped lightly around the edges. 5. Transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 20 minutes or until the custard is still a little shivery in the middle. 6. Refrigerate for 2 hours, or overnight. The custards will keep for 3 or 4 days in the refrigerator.
n Serving option: Peel a very ripe room temperature Anjou pear, core dice and spoon on top of the custard.
MAKES 2 SERVINGS | PHOTO PAGE 20
This is a tantalizing combination of sweet, salty, crunchy and herbal. If you or your partner don’t care for blue cheese, you could substitute a tangy goat cheese. These can be made the day before, brought to room temperature and then finished with the hazelnut.
6 dried black (mission) figs 1 ounce bleu d’Auvergne or other creamy blue cheese 10 toasted whole hazelnuts (includes 4 extra nuts to nibble) fresh thyme sprigs
1. Trim the stalk off the fig and cut in half down the middle. Using your thumb, make each half into a cup. 2. Fill each cup with about 1 to 1½ teaspoons blue cheese and press a hazelnut on top. Scatter on a few leaves of thyme. 3. Serve at room temperature but store any extra covered and refrigerated for about 3 days.
Cook’s Notes
n To skin hazelnuts, toast them on a sheet pan at 350°F for 13 minutes. Fold in a kitchen towel and let steam for 5 minutes then, using a circular motion, rub them against each other. Most of the skin should be removed. n To strip the thyme leaves easily, take one stalk and pull off the leaves from the top down. n
nutrition (per serving)
BABY GREEN PEA SOUP WITH MARJORAM:
CALORIES: 180, FAT: 10G (SAT: 3G), CHOLESTEROL: 10 MG, SODIUM: 970 MG, CARB: 18G, FIBER: 5G, SUGAR: 7G, PROTEIN: 7G
GARLIC BREAD:
CALORIES: 430, FAT: 25G (SAT: 15G), CHOLESTEROL: 60 MG, SODIUM: 770 MG, CARB: 43G, FIBER: 2G, SUGAR: 4G, PROTEIN: 9G
GREEN SALAD OF FENNEL, ENDIVE AND ORANGE
(WITHOUT DRESSING): CALORIES: 80, FAT: .5G (SAT: 0G), CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 80MG, CARB: 17G, FIBER: 9G, SUGAR: 7G, PROTEIN: 4G
WHITE BEER DRESSING:
CALORIES: 140, FAT: 14G (SAT: 6G), CHOLESTEROL: 25 MG, SODIUM: 830MG, CARB: 2G, FIBER: 0G, SUGAR: <1G, PROTEIN: <1G
WHITE BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE:
CALORIES: 300, FAT: 31G (SAT: 4.5G), CHOLESTEROL: 0 MG, SODIUM: 640 MG, CARB: 15G, FIBER: 0G, SUGAR: 14G, PROTEIN: 0G
ROAST CHICKEN PIECES WITH MAROON OLIVE BUTTER:
CALORIES: 640, FAT: 46G (SAT: 14G), CHOLESTEROL: 230 MG, SODIUM: 1350 MG, CARB 3G, FIBER: 1G, SUGAR: 0G, PROTEIN: 51G
MASHED CAULIFLOWER WITH PARSLEY AND BUTTER:
CALORIES: 170, FAT: 12G (SAT: 8G), CHOLESTEROL: 30 MG, SODIUM: 590MG, CARB: 14G, FIBER: 6G, SUGAR: 5G, PROTEIN: 5G
DELICATE FLAN:
CALORIES: 160, FAT: 6G (SAT: 2.5G), CHOLESTEROL: 190 MG, SODIUM: 45 MG, CARB: 20G, FIBER: 0G, SUGAR: 20G, PROTEIN: 5G
DRIED BLACK FIGS WITH BLUE CHEESE, HAZELNUT AND THYME:
CALORIES: 180, FAT: 9G (SAT: 3G), CHOLESTEROL: 0MG, SODIUM: 160 MG, CARB: 23G, FIBER: 3G, SUGAR: 20G, PROTEIN: 5G
