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Vegans at the BBQ

Fire up the grill for plant-based eating

What do vegans eat at a barbecue?” If this sounds like the setup to a bad joke, food writer and avowed vegan Katy Beskow has a serious answer. Actually, 70 answers. In her new book “Vegan BBQ,” she lays out dozens of plant-based meals for grilling (plus sides, salads and desserts).

A couple grilling tips from Beskow to get you started: Charcoal is always her choice, for the “cooked-in” flavor and lower purchase cost, although nailing the temperature may require some patience. For that, she recommends gauging the heat of your grill by eyeing the embers. If they’re glowing white, with bright red cores, that’s a high heat. If they’re ashy white with moderate glow, that means medium. Yellow-brown embers with no glow indicate low heat. (You can also hold your palm two inches above the grill—just a couple seconds for high heat, three to four seconds for medium heat, and five to six seconds for low heat—to gauge the heat.)

Whether you’re vegan, vegetarian or simply craving fresh new ideas, says Beskow in the intro to the book, there are so many delicious possibilities when barbecuing plant-based foods. They transform when cooked on the grill, which adds charred, smoky flavor and crisp yet tender textures. Here are two recipes from her book to get you going, both of them good for an intimate summer gathering. —ERIK TORMOEN

Teriyaki Tofu with Charred Greens

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Tofu is marinated in a sweet, salty and sticky sauce in this succulent dish, then served with charred greens. Teriyaki sauce is made for grilling, as it adds moisture as well as the perfect balance of sweet and very savory. Prepare the sauce in advance as it will thicken slightly as it cools, creating the perfect glaze for tender tofu.

½ cup (scant) soy sauce 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 tablespoon maple syrup 1 tablespoon mirin 2 garlic cloves, crushed 1 (½-inch) piece of ginger, peeled and grated

Pinch of dried chili flakes 9 ounce block pre-pressed extra-firm tofu, cut horizontally into 4 slices 12 florets broccolini 16 sugar snap peas ¼ savoy cabbage, cut into 4 wedges ½ tablespoon sunflower oil, for brushing 1 teaspoon sesame seeds

1. Set the grill for medium heat. Put the soy sauce, brown sugar, maple syrup, mirin, garlic, ginger and chili flakes into a pan. Heat over a medium heat on the stovetop for 5 to 6 minutes until the mixture is bubbling, then remove from the heat and allow to cool and thicken for a few minutes. 2. Blot the slices of tofu with a paper towel or clean cloth to remove any excess moisture. Score the tofu lightly in crisscross pattern on one side (this will help the tofu to absorb the marinade). Place the tofu slices into a deep dish, then pour over the teriyaki marinade. Allow to stand for 1 hour, turning the tofu a couple of times. 3. Skewer the broccoli florets, sugar snap peas and cabbage wedges onto 4 metal skewers, with 3 pieces of broccoli, 4 sugar snap peas and a wedge of cabbage on each. Brush with a little sunflower oil. 4. Shake excess marinade off the tofu, then carefully place on the hot grill. Cook for 4 to 5 minutes on each side, turning when the cooked side appears firm. 5. Add the loaded skewers to the hot grill and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, turning frequently until tender and charred. 6. Remove the tofu slices from the grill and place on serving plates. Scatter each one with a few sesame seeds. Remove the skewers from the grill and carefully slide the vegetables onto the plates, placing the broccoli florets on top of the teriyaki tofu.

HOT TIP: Mirin is a sweet Japanese rice wine, which adds a little acidity to a dish, but less than vinegar. n

Pulled Mango Tacos with Beans, Radishes and Coriander

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Sweet, spiced mango becomes something special when grilled, which is why I make smoky pulled mango the star of the show in these family-friendly tacos. Personally, I love the contrast of the smooth mango in crunchy taco shells, but feel free to use soft corn wraps if you prefer. –katy beskow

1 (14-ounce) can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed 3 scallions, finely chopped 2 radishes, finely diced 1 (¼-inch) piece of cucumber, finely diced

Handful of fresh cilantro leaves, chopped ½ lime, juiced

Generous pinch of smoked sea salt, to taste

For the Pulled Mango

2 tablespoons oil 1 teaspoon smoked paprika

Pinch of mild chili powder pinch of sea salt 2 mangoes, peeled and sliced lengthways into 4 “cheeks” per mango 2 red bell peppers, deseeded and sliced into 8 thick strips 8 crunchy corn taco shells 2 tablespoons vegan mayonnaise

1. Set the grill for medium heat. In a bowl, stir together the kidney beans, scallions, radishes, cucumber, cilantro and lime juice. Season to taste with smoked sea salt. Allow to infuse while you light the barbecue. 2. In a bowl, whisk together the oil, smoked paprika, chili powder and sea salt. Lay out the mango and peppers on a plate and brush both sides with the oil mix. 3. Use tongs to place the mango and pepper slices onto the hot grill and cook for 5 to 6 minutes on each side until softened and sizzling and grill lines appear. 4. Lay out the taco shells and spoon in the bean mix. Add the pepper slices. 5. Place the mango onto a chopping board and use forks to gently pull the mango apart into finer shreds. Place into the taco shells and serve while still hot.

HOT TIP: These tacos are mildly spiced, making them perfect for younger eaters. If you prefer a little more heat, grill Padron peppers alongside the mango, or spoon over a few jalapeño pepper slices from the jar.

RECIPES AND PHOTOS FROM “VEGAN BBQ” BY KATY BESKOW © 2022 REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM HARDIE GRANT BOOKS. PHOTOS BY LUKE ALBERT.

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