01 costa rica 10 contents by Greg Childress

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

“ All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

PLAN YOUR TRIP

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip

Welcome to

Costa Rica COUNTRY • The original • Comprehensive • Adventurous The Tropics in Technicolor Whether you’re following the metallic shimmer of a blue butterÁy from palm to palm, staring into the yawning mouth of a deep purple orchid or watching wisps of fog roll in to soften the jagged edge of mountains, Costa Rica’s vivid colors last a lifetime. The canopies rustle with riotous troupes of white-faced monkeys, hillsides echo with the squawks of scarlet macaws and you can reach up to the trees and pick your day’s lunch: a ripe starfruit. It might seem at times like some kind of wondrous tropical fantasy land, but this is Costa Rica.

Outdoor Adventures 11 Rainforest hikes and brisk high-altitude

trails, rushing white-water rapids and 10

world-class surÀng: there is a dizzying suite of outdoor adventures. They come in every shape and size – from the squealinducing rush of a canopy zip line, to a sun-dazed afternoon at the beach. The country’s national parks allow visitors to glimpse the seething life of the tropical rainforest, its simmering volcanoes and cloud forests oՖer otherworldly vistas and its reliable surf breaks are suited to beginners and experts alike. Can’t decide? Don’t worry, you won’t have to. Given its diminutive size, it’s possible to plan a relatively short trip that includes all of the above.

11 CASEY MAHANEY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

2 4 6 18 20 22 23 26 29 34 44 47

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

CHRISTIAN ASLUND / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

Welcome to Costa Rica .. Map .................................. 21 Top Experiences ........ Need to Know ................. First Time ........................ What’s New ..................... If You Like ........................ Month by Month ............. Itineraries ........................ Activity Guide ................. Travel with Children ....... Regions at a Glance .......

Get the right g guides g for your y trip p

Itineraries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet. com/thorntree to chat with other travelers.

SurÀng

Wildlife-Watching

Costa Rica’s east coast may move to the laid-back groove of Caribbean reggae, but the country’s best year-round surÀng is on the PaciÀc coast. It’s home to a number of seaside villages where the day’s agenda rarely gets more complicated than a scrupulous study of the surf report, a healthy application of sunblock and a few cold Imperial beers. With plenty of good breaks for beginners, and the country’s most reliable rides (including perhaps the world’s second-longest left-hand break, in Pavones – p393), Costa Rica has inexhaustible potential for surfers. Mal País

Volcán Arenal

‚

Monteverde & Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso •# • Monteverde # • La # Playa # Fortuna • Tamarindo

CARIBBEAN SEA

_ SAN JOSÉ # • #

• #

Jacó

SHOESTRING • Big trips, small budgets • Multicountry

Montezuma

Monkeys and crocs, toucans and iguanas – Costa Rica is a thrill for wildlife enthusiasts. World-class parks, long-standing dedication to environmental protection, and mind-boggling biodiversity enable Costa Rica to harbor scores of rare and endangered species. Simply put, it’s one of the best wildlife-watching destinations on the globe. In fact, visitors hardly have to make an eՖort; no matter where you travel in the country, the branches overhead are alive with critters galore, from lazy sloths and mischievous monkeys, to a brilliant spectrum of tropical birds. Capuchin monkeys

÷ # Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

PA C I F I C OCEAN

DISCOVER

• Best-of • Photo-packed • Inspirational

PHRASEBOOK

Looking for other travel resources? UNDERSTAND 475 COSTA RICA PAGE

Costa Rica Today ........... History ............................. The Tico Way of Life ....... Landscapes & Ecology .. Wildlife Guide ..................

476 479 488 493 507

GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you can make sense of what you see population per sq km COSTA RICA

UNITED STATES

CANADA

≈ 2 people

úñez de Balboa heard rumors about a large sea and a wealthy, gold roducing civilization across the mountains of the isthmus – almost cer ainly referring to the Inca empire of present-day Peru. Driven by equal arts ambition and greed, Balboa scaled the continental divide, and on Se tem er 26, 1513, he became the Àrst European to set eyes upon the PaciÀc Ocean. Keeping up with the European fashion of the day, Balboa mmediately proceeded to claim the ocean and all the lands it touched or the king of Spain. The thrill of discovery aside, the conquistadors now controlled a strategic western beachhead from which to launch their conquest of Costa Rica. In the name of God and king, aristocratic adventurers plundered indigenous villages, executed resisters and enslaved survivors throughout the Nicoya peninsula. However, none of these bloodstained campaigns led to a permanent presence as intercontinental germ warfare caused outbreaks of feverish death on both sides. Since the area was scarce in mineral wealth and indigenous laborers, the Spanish eventually came to regard it as the ‘poorest and most miserable in all the Americas.’

New World Order It was not until the 1560s that a Spanish colony was Àrmly established in Costa Rica. Hoping to cultivate the rich volcanic soil of the Central Valley, the Spanish founded the village of Cartago on the banks of the Río Reventazón. Although the Áedgling colony was extremely isolated,

Costa Rica Today Weathering the Economic Storm

Visit World Mysteries at www. world-mysteries. com/sar_12.htm for an investigation of Costa Rica’s mysterious stone spheres.

Population: 25 million Adult literacy: % Population ng below the verty line: % Annual rbon-dioxide missions per rson: 1.85

ALFREDO MAIQUEZ / LONELY PLANET IMAGES ©

1737

1821

The future capital of San José is established, sparking a rivalry with neighboring Cartago that will eventually culminate in a civil war between the two dominant cities.

Following a unanimous declaration by Mexico on behalf of all of Central America, Costa Rica Ànally gains its independence from Spain after centuries of colonial occupation.

Even despite the economic tumult that has rocked the world since 2008, Costa Rica’s economy has remained remarkably stable thanks to consistently growing returns on tourism. Tourism now outpaces both agriculture and industry for the biggest slice of the economy. If you’re concerned about the availability of an English menu, take note: North Americans now account for nearly half the country’s 2.2 million annual tourists. Aside from tourism, the country’s principal agriculture exports include pineapples, coՖee, fruits and plants, while industrial exports include microchips, construction materials, fertilizer and medical equipment. Poverty levels have been kept in check for more than 20 years by strong welfare programs. Although approximately 21% of the populace lives below the poverty line – up 5% since 2008 – beggars are few an far between, and you won’t see the street kids you see in other Latin American capitals. In fact, a good system of social services has ma e panhan ing and begging extremely rare in Costa Rica. Foreign investors continue to be attracted by the country’s o itica

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ON THE ROAD

PAGE

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips

Northern Lowlands p453

Northwestern Costa Rica p130

Central Valley & Highlands

Península de Nicoya

Caribbean Coast p397

p94

p209

San José p52

Central Pacific Coast p274

Southern Costa Rica p334

Península de Osa & Golfo Dulce p358

SURVIVAL 517 GUIDE PAGE

Directory A–Z ................. 518 Transportation ............... 531 Language ........................ 539 Index ................................ 549 Map Legend .................... 559

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

Nica

Air Airports & Airline

Transportation GETTING THERE & AWAY Entering the Country » Entering Costa Rica is mostly free of hassle, with the exception of some long queues at the airport. » The vast majority of travelers enter the country by plane, and most international Áights arrive at Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría, outside San José. » Liberia is a growing destination for international Áights; it in the Guanacaste province serves travelers heading Península de Nicoya.

» Overland border crossings

are straightforward and travelers can move freely between Panama to the south and Nicaragua to the north. » Some foreign nationals will require a visa. Be aware that you cannot get a visa at the border. For more information on visas see the Directory (p528).

Passport

» Citizens of all nations are required to have a passport that is valid for at least six months beyond the dates of your trip. » When you arrive your passport will be stamped. » Though seldomly enforced, the law requires that you carry your passport at all times.

» Costa Rica is well conn ed by air to other Central an South American countries, as well as the USA. » International Áights arrive at Aeropuerto Internacional Juan Santamaría (%2437-2400; www.aeris.cr), 17km northwest of San José, in the town of Alajuela. » Aeropuerto Internacional Daniel Oduber Quirós in Liberia also receives international Áights from the USA, the Americas and Canada. It serves a number of American and Canadian airlines and some charters from London. Flights into Liberia have increased since the 2012 opening of a new terminal. » The national airline, Lacsa (part of the Central American Airline consortium Grupo TACA), Áies to the USA and Latin America, including Cuba. » The US Federal Aviation Administration has assessed Costa Rica’s aviation authorities to be in complian with international safet standards.

HANGE & TRAVEL t relies on carbon-based fuel gene

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Nate Cavalieri, Adam Skolnick, Wendy Yanagihara

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Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

Look out for these icons: Our author’s top recommendation

A green or sustainable option

No payment required

SAN JOSÉ . . . . . . . . . . 52 Costa de Pájaros . . . . . . . . 157 Playa Junquillal . . . . . . . . . .233 SAN JOSÉ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 AROUND SAN JOSÉ . . . . . . . 85 Los Yoses & San Pedro . . . .85 Escazú . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89

CENTRAL VALLEY & HIGHLANDS . . . . . . . . 94 ALAJUELA & THE NORTHERN VALLEY . . 95 Alajuela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95 Parque Nacional Volcán Poás . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Northwest to Sarchí. . . . . .106 HEREDIA AREA . . . . . . . . . . .112 Barva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 CARTAGO AREA . . . . . . . . . .115 Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú. . . . . . . . . . . . .120 Valle de Orosi . . . . . . . . . . .120 TURRIALBA AREA . . . . . . . 124 Parque Nacional Volcán Turrialba . . . . . . . . . 129

Juntas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Monteverde & Santa Elena . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde . . . . . 177 Ecolodge San Luis & Research Station . . . . . . . . 181 Cañas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Puente La Amistad. . . . . . . 183 Volcán Tenorio Area . . . . . . 183 Volcán Miravalles Area . . . 187 Bagaces . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Parque Nacional Palo Verde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Liberia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190 Parque Nacional Rincón de la Vieja. . . . . . . . 197 Area de Conservacion Guanacaste . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Parque Nacional Guanacaste . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 La Cruz. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 Bahía Salinas . . . . . . . . . . 206

Santa Cruz. . . . . . . . . . . . . .235 CENTRAL PENINSULA . . . 236 Nicoya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .236 Nosara Area. . . . . . . . . . . . .239 Refugio Nacional de Fauna Silvestre Ostional . .246 Playa Sámara . . . . . . . . . . .247 Playa Carrillo. . . . . . . . . . . . 251 Islita Area. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252 Playas San Miguel & Coyote . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .253 SOUTHEASTERN PENINSULA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Playa Naranjo . . . . . . . . . . .255 Paquera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256 Playas Pochote & Tambor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .257 Cóbano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Montezuma . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Cabuya . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Reserva Natural Absoluta Cabo Blanco . . . .267 Mal País & Santa Teresa . . . . . . . . . . . 268

PENÍNSULA NORTHWESTERN DE NICOYA. . . . . . . . .209 COSTA RICA . . . . . . . 130 CENTRAL PACIFIC NORTHERN PENINSULA. . 212 COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 ARENAL ROUTE . . . . . . . . . .131 Ciudad Quesada (San Carlos) . . . . . . . . . . . . 131 La Fortuna & Around . . . . . 134 Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal . . . . . . . . . . . 145 El Castillo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 Laguna de Arenal Area . . . 149 Tilarán . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 INTERAMERICANA NORTE . .157

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Playa del Coco . . . . . . . . . . 212 Playa Hermosa . . . . . . . . . . 215 Playa Ocotal . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Playa Grande. . . . . . . . . . . 220 Parque Nacional Marino Las Baulas De Guanacaste . . . . . . . . . .224 Playa Tamarindo . . . . . . . . .225 Playas Avellanas & Negra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231

PUNTARENAS TO QUEPOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Puntarenas . . . . . . . . . . . . .278 Parque Nacional Carara . . 281 Tárcoles & Around . . . . . . 284 Jacó . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 Playa Hermosa . . . . . . . . . 296 Playa Esterillos . . . . . . . . . 298 Parrita & Around . . . . . . . 299

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See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

On the Road PARQUE NACIONAL MANUEL ANTONIO & AROUND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Quepos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 Manuel Antonio Village . . . 315 Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio . . . . . . . . . 317 QUEPOS TO UVITA . . . . . . . 322 Rafiki Safari Lodge . . . . . . .322 Matapalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .323 Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge . .323 Dominical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .324 Uvita . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .329 Parque Nacional Marino Ballena . . . . . . . . . . 331

NORTHERN CARIBBEAN . .410 PENÍNSULA DE OSA & GOLFO DULCE . . . .358 Parismina. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .410 TO CORCOVADO VIA PUERTO JIMÉNEZ . . . . . . . 362 Reserva Forestal Golfo Dulce . . . . . . . . . . . . .362 Puerto Jiménez. . . . . . . . . 364 Carate. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 371 TO CORCOVADO VIA BAHÍA DRAKE . . . . . . . . . . . 374 Sierpe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374 Humedal Nacional Térraba-Sierpe . . . . . . . . . . 374 Bahía Drake . . . . . . . . . . . . .375 Reserva Biológica Isla del Caño . . . . . . . . . . . .382 PARQUE NACIONAL

SOUTHERN CORCOVADO. . . . . . . . . . . . 382 COSTA RICA . . . . . . .334 GOLFO DULCE . . . . . . . . . . 388

THE ROAD TO CHIRRIPÓ . .335 Santa María & Valle de Dota . . . . . . . . . . . .335 San Gerardo de Dota . . . . 338 Parque Nacional Los Quetzales . . . . . . . . . . 340 Cerro de La Muerte . . . . . 340 San Isidro de El General . . 341 San Gerardo de Rivas . . . .343 PARQUE NACIONAL CHIRRIPÓ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .345

THE ROAD TO LA AMISTAD . .350 Reserva Biológica Dúrika . .350 Reserva Indígena Boruca. .350 Palmar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .352 San Vito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .354 PARQUE INTERNACIONAL LA AMISTAD . . . . . . . . . . . . 356

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Golfito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388 Parque Nacional Piedras Blancas . . . . . . . . . 391 Playas San Josecito, Nicuesa & Cativo . . . . . . . . 391 Zancudo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .392 Pavones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .393 PARQUE NACIONAL ISLA DEL COCOS . . . . . . . . 395

CARIBBEAN COAST . .397 THE ATLANTIC SLOPE . . .400 Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo . . . . . . . . . .401 Guápiles & Around . . . . . . 402 Cariari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404 Siquirres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 405 Puerto Limón . . . . . . . . . . 406

Parque Nacional Tortuguero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 SOUTHERN CARIBBEAN . .420 Reserva Biológica Hitoy-Cerere . . . . . . . . . . . . 421 Aviarios del Caribe Sloth Sanctuary . . . . . . . . . 421 Parque Nacional Cahuita. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 431 Puerto Viejo de Talamanca . . . . . . . . . . .432 Manzanillo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 448 Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo . . . . 449 Bribrí . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 451 Sixaola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .452

NORTHERN LOWLANDS . . . . . . . .453 THE SARAPIQUÍ VALLEY. . 456 La Virgen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456 Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .459 SOUTH OF PUERTO VIEJO DE SARAPIQUÍ . . . . 462 Estación Biológica La Selva . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 HWY 126 TO SAN MIGUEL . . . . . . . . . 464 SAN MIGUEL TO LOS CHILES. . . . . . . . . . 464 Venecia & Around. . . . . . . 465 Los Chiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . 466 Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Caño Negro. . . . 468

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› Costa Rica

85ºW

86ºW

Sapoá

Peñas Blancas Santa Cecilia

La Cruz

11ºN

Lago de Nicaragua San Carlos Los Chiles

o Fr í o

Santa Rosa Central America’s largest tropical dry forest (p200)

San José Upala

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Caño Cordi llera Negro de Volcán Rincón Llanura de Rí G de la Vieja Guatusos (1895m) Volcán b Golfo de e Li Santa s Papagayo María rlo (1916m) io San Rafael LIBERIA de Guatuso Sa Nosara Laguna Nuevo Arenal El Coco Muelle A slice of sophisticated de Arenal o Arenal de San í Bagaces R Carlos jungle living (p239) La Tilarán Fortuna Filadelfia Volcán Arenal Cañas (1633m) Huacas Bebedero Jabillos Santa Playa Grande Ciudad Quesada Puerto Elena i l l (San Carlos) Playa Tamarindo Humo Monteverde e ra d Tamarindo Santa e Ti Coralillo larán Zarcero Cruz Puente La Paraíso Nicoya Amistad Pe San Miramar nin c Ramón rr an sul a Hojancha ad 10ºN oB eN Rí Carmona y icoy Nosara Esparza Ferr a PUNTARENAS San Mateo Playa Playa Sámara les Naranjo co Sámara Mellow out and learn Bejuco Santiago to surf (p247) Paquera Golfo de í de Puriscal RParque Nicoya Tambor Nacional Carara Playa Santa Teresa Montezuma Jacó Mal País

Parque Nacional Santa Rosa

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Tá r

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Montezuma Triple-tiered waterfalls and fine food (p260)

Parrita

Mal País & Santa Teresa A paradise of surf, yoga and sushi (p268) To Isla del Cocos (300km; See inset)

86ºW

9ºN

87º06'W 0 0

Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal Hot springs and excellent hiking (p145)

87º04'W

87º02'W

PACIFIC

4 km 2 miles

OCEAN

5º34'N

5º32'N

Isla del Cocos Cerro Iglesias (634m)

ELEVATION 3000m 2000m 1000m 0

5º30'N

0 0

50 km 25 miles

85ºW

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Top Experiences › 83ºW

CARIBBEAN

Sarapiquí Valley A paddling paradise with excellent ecolodges (p456)

NICARAGUA

SEA 11ºN

Río S n

Parque Nacional Tortuguero Glide on waterways past herons and nesting turtles (p412)

ven

San José Dig into Costa Rican culture and cuisine (p52)

zón Parismina

Southern Caribbean Coast A remote mix of indigenous, Tico and Afro-Carribean cultures (p420)

CARTAGO Turrialba Moravia Paraíso Tapantí

Rí o

Quepos

Parque Nacional Chirripó Rivas

Savegre San Isidro de Parque Nacional El General Manuel Antonio Dominical Rí

Rí o

Teliré

Shiroles

Cerro Chirripó (3820m) Reserva Co rdi Tala ller Biológica ma a d Durika nc e a Ujarrás

Cahuita Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

Bribrí

Rí o Si

Amubri

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Parque Nacional Los Quetzales

Pandora

strella Rí o E

La ri

Santa María de Dota

Rí o

San Ignacio de Acosta San Marcos de Tarrazú Valle de Parrita

Pacayas

10ºN

PUERTO LIMÓN

Ch ir r i p ó Atlá nti co

SAN JOSÉ

Siquirres

Rí o Pacua re

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Ciudad Colón

Tortuguero Parque Nacional Tortuguero

Rí o Re

Rí o T

Rí o To ro

Rí o Ch

Barra del Juan Colorado ó Boca ip irr Tapada Llanura de San Carlos Llanura de o Tortuguero uer Pital ortug Puerto Viejo de Sarapiquí Cariari San Llanura de Miguel Parque Nacional S a n t a C l a r a Guácimo Volcán Poás Guápiles Volcán ill Poás er (2704m) Volcán a ALAJUELA Cen tra Irazú (3432m) Lajas l HEREDIA

Sixaola

Guabito

Changuinola

Bocas del Toro Almirante

o Ge ner al

Cerro Chirripó Buenos Aires Icy lakes, wind-swept highs Valle del and rugged hiking (p345) General Bahía de Potrero Paso Grande Coronado 9ºN Palmar Real Norte Rí o Cotó n Ciudad PANAMA Valle de Santa Cortés Int Coto Brus Elena Fi era l a Sabalito Cos Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio Sierpe mer teña San ica Accessible rainforest and Vito na Río Boquete Agua beautiful beaches (p317) Sereno Buena Golfo Golfito Rincón Dulce Río Neily Parque Claro Península Puerto erry Nacional F de Osa Paso Corcovado Jiménez Playa Laguna Concepción Canoas Zancudo Corcovado Valle de Coto David Carate Colorado Uvita

Golfo Dulce Kayak mangrove channels alongside dolphins (p365)

Puerto Armuelles

84ºW

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83ºW

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OUR STORY

A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has oﬃces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staﬀ and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Nate Cavalieri Coordinating Author, Central Pacific Coast, Southern Costa Rica, Península de Osa & Golfo Duce Nate Cavalieri traveled extensively in Latin America on a 2009 trip around the world, but quickly realized that Costa Rica required a lengthy return visit for his undivided attention. Nate lives in Oakland, California, where he writes about life’s most colorful diversions: travel, music and professional cycling. His dozen titles for Lonely Planet include guides to the Caribbean, Mexico, Northern California and Colorado. For this edition he took up surfing, got really into the mythology of the Quetzal and nearly destroyed an economy-class rental car. You can check in on him via Twitter (@natecavalieri) or visit www.natecavalieri.com. Adam Skolnick Northwestern Costa Rica, Península de Nicoya, Northern Lowlands Adam Skolnick writes about travel, culture, health, sports and the environment for Lonely Planet, Men’s Health, Outside and Travel + Leisure among others. He has authored and co-authored 16 previous Lonely Planet books, and has travelled and reported throughout Central America. You can read more of his work at www. adamskolnick.com. Wendy Yanagihara San José, Central Valley & Highlands, Carribean Coast On her first trip to Costa Rica in 1996, Wendy wandered out to Zarcero to check out the loopy topiaries of the public plaza, and met Evangelisto Blanco himself (the man behind the landscaping). Fifteen years later, she was pleased to discover that both Zarcero and Señor Blanco have changed only slightly. She has covered the Nicoya Peninsula and northern zone before for Lonely Planet, but on this trip she discovered the surprising delights of San José and a taste for Caribbean rondón. When not on the road for Lonely Planet, she lives in southern California.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd ABN 36 005 607 983 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasonable care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about 10th edition – October 2012 the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxiISBN 978 1 74220 018 7 mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. © Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 2012 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

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Itineraries

‚

Volcán Arenal Monteverde & Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso • # • # Monteverde • La # Playa # Fortuna • Tamarindo

CARIBBEAN SEA

_ SAN JOSÉ # • #

Montezuma

• #

Jacó

÷ # Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio

PA C I F I C OCEAN

Two Weeks

Essential Costa Rica This is the trip you’ve been dreaming about: a romp through paradise with seething volcanoes, tropical parks and ghostly cloud forests. From San José, beeline north to La Fortuna. After hiking the forest on the flanks of Volcán Arenal, soak in the area’s hot springs. Then catch a boat across Laguna de Arenal, and a bus to Monteverde, where you might just encounter the elusive quetzal on a stroll through the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde. It’s time for the beach: head west to the biggest party town in Nicoya, Playa Tamarindo, and enjoy the ideal surf and rowdy nightlife. Continuing south, go through Montezuma where you can connect via jet boat to Jacó, another town with equal aﬀection for surfing and partying. Spend half a day on the bus down to Quepos, the gateway to Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. A full day in the park starts with some jungle hikes and wildlife-watching and ends with a picnic and a dip in the park’s perfect waters.

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• Reserva # Volcán Biológica # • Arenal • # Bosque • # Nuboso Playa Sámara Monteverde

• #

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

Playa Tamarindo & Playa Grande

La Virgen & Río Sarapiquí

CARIBBEAN SEA

_ SAN JOSÉ #

É • Mal País & Playa # • # Santa Teresa Montezuma

e #

PA C I F I C OCEAN

Two Weeks

Northern Costa Rica A deep exploration of the north presents travelers with all of Costa Rica’s banner attractions and some of its oﬀ-the-beaten-path destinations in a tidy, low-mileage package. After landing in San José, make for the hanging bridges and breathtaking scenery of the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde, one of Costa Rica’s most unique and iconic destinations. Just watching the mists roll over the dense forests is entertaining, but the add-ons here sweeten the deal: there are dizzying zip lines and areal walkways, excellent hikes and one of the country’s best butterfly gardens. After a few days in the cloud forest you’ll be ready for Arenal, the country’s biggest active volcano. Though just a quick bus ride away, the glowering mountain seems like a diﬀerent world. Although it seems to be in heading into a period of dormancy, Arenal remains an incredible sight. Another few hikes and you’ll be ready for the area’s hot springs. Now, leave the tourists behind and head into the northern lowlands, an agricultural zone where real-life Costa Rica awaits. Community tourism initiatives have sprung up in this historically farm-based economy, with inviting ecolodges and family stays. After a couple days of connecting with easygoing Ticos, make for La Virgen to raft the county’s wildest waters on the Río Sarapiquí. With the remaining week, it’s time to hit the beach. Catch a bus for Playa Tamarindo, to party with other travelers, sample some of the country’s finest international cuisine and take a few surfing lessons. If you’re here during turtle season, Playa Grande will host a horde of nesting leatherbacks; if you’re not, the human action on the beach is an equally illuminating mating ritual. You can either stay put or string together a series of southbound buses to visit one heavenly beach after the next: there’s stunning sand and contemporary cuisine at Playa Sámara or legendary swells at Mal País and Playa Santa Teresa. Any of them would be excellent places to swim in warm Pacific waters and chill out on the beach. Wind down your trip with a bit of yoga at Montezuma and head back to San José via Jacó by jet boat and bus.

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PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

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» (above) Hiking in the Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde (p177) » (left) Volcán Arenal (p145)

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SAN JOSÉ

_ #

Parque Nacional ÷ Carara #

Quepos & Parque É Chirripó Nacional Manuel • Jacó # • # Antonio # • San Gerardo de Rivas & • É # Cloudbridge Nature Preserve ÷• # Hacienda Barú # Urita &Parque Nacional ÷ # National Wildlife Marino Ballena Refuge Dominical

Pacific Coast Southern Costa Rica

Parque Nacional ÷É Corcovado #

PA C I F I C OCEAN

‚

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

CARIBBEAN SEA

• #

Puerto • # Península Jiménez de Osa

Two Weeks

Two to Three Weeks

Pacific Coast Explorer

Southern Costa Rica & Osa

Kick things oﬀ in the resort town of Jacó, a scrappy, if cosmopolitan enclave of fine dining and raging nightlife. In case you need a reminder that you’re still in Costa Rica, backtrack north up the coast to Parque Nacional Carara, home to large populations of enchanting scarlet macaws. Heading south along the coast, drop in on Quepos, a convenient base for the country’s most popular national park, Parque Nacional Manuel Antonio. Here, the rainforest sweeps down to meet the sea, providing refuge for rare animals, including the endangered Central American squirrel monkey. Continue on south – stopping to sample the roadside ceviche stands – and visit Hacienda Barú National Wildlife Refuge to look for sloth, or keep heading south to Dominical for more waves. For deserted beach wandering keep on to Uvita, where you can look for whales oﬀ Parque Nacional Marino Ballena. From Uvita, you can either continue south to the far-flung Península de Osa, or head to San José.

Hand’s down the best itinerary for adventurers. Either head down the Pacific coast or fly into Puerto Jiménez, which serves as the gateway to Osa. Here, you can spend a day or so kayaking the mangroves and soaking up the charm of this tiny town. The undisputed highlight of Osa is Parque Nacional Corcovado, one of the country’s best wildlife-watching spots. Spend a few days exploring the trails with backpack in hand; particularly well-equipped travelers can trek across the entire park. Return to Puerto Jiménez and link up with the Uvita, where you wander empty beaches and surf a bit in the Parque Nacional Marino Ballena. Then, it’s oﬀ to the mountains. Link together buses for San Gerardo de Rivas, where you can spend a day getting used to the altitude and hiking through the Cloudbridge Nature Preserve. End the trip with an exhilarating two-day adventure to the top of Chirripó.

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_ SAN JOSÉ #

•É # Monumento Nacional É É Arqueológico Guayabo • # Parque • # # • • #

Guápiles

÷ #

CARIBBEAN SEA

Nacional Refugio Nacional Cartago Orosi ÷ Río Cahuita # Vida Silvestre • # Valley Pacuare ÷ de # Puerto GandocaManzanillo Viejo de Talamanca É

PA C I F I C OCEAN

PL AN YOUR TRIP I T I N E R A R I E S

Volcán Poás

Tortuguero & Parque Nacional Tortuguero • # Cariari # •

Central Valley Caribbean Coast

One to Two Weeks

One Week

Carribean Coast

Central Valley

Spanish gives way to English, and Latin beats change to Caribbean rhythms as you explore the ‘other Costa Rica.’ Hop on the first eastbound bus out of San José for Cahuita, capital of Afro-Caribbean culture and gateway to Parque Nacional Cahuita. Get your fill of this mellow little village before moving on to Puerto Viejo de Talamanca, the Caribbean’s center for nightlife, cuisine and all-round positive vibes. From Puerto Viejo, rent yourself a good old-fashioned bicycle and ride to Manzanillo, from where you can snorkel, kayak and hike in the Refugio Nacional de Vida Silvestre Gandoca-Manzanillo. For the adventurous at heart, grab a boat from Moín to travel the canal-lined coast to Tortuguero, where you can watch nesting green and leatherback turtles. Of course, the real reason you’re here is to arrange a canoe trip through the mangrove-lined canals of Parque Nacional Tortuguero, Costa Rica’s mini-Amazon. After spotting your fill of wildlife, head back to San José via water taxi and bus through Cariari and Guápiles.

The central valley circuit is about sleeping volcanoes, strong cups of coffee and the spiritual core of the country. Since most tourists head toward Costa Rica’s distant beaches, you’ll enjoy mountain markets and colonial squares without the huge crowds. Begin the scenic circuit of the region’s gaping volcanoes by hiking the volcanic lakes and trails surrounding Poás, one of Costa Rica’s most accessible glimpses into an active volcano. Move on to the Monumento Nacional Arqueológico Guayabo, the country’s only significant archeological site, where visitors marvel at petroglyphs and a system of aqueducts. With the geological and archeological wonders complete, rush the white water of the Río Pacuare, one of the country’s best white-water runs, and some of the most scenic rafting in Central America. Finally, swing south into the heart of the Orosi Valley, Costa Rican coffee country, and take the caffeinated 60km loop passing the country’s oldest church and endless green hills. End this short circuit on a spiritual note at the country’s grandest colonial temple, the Basílica de Nuestra Senora de Los Ángeles in Cartago.

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