South American Wines
1. Andes Winemaking is both Old World and New World. Andes snow melt creates natural irrigation and supports a very healthy ecosystem for vines. Chile is phylloxera-free; Argentina is mostly immune, and both countries are highly sustainable. 2. South America has been making wine since the 1500’s. Spanish Monks planted Mission grapes (País and Criolla Grande) for “religious purposes.” 3. In the late 19thC, plantings of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carménère started a path to unique identity. Uruguay is known for Tannat, Brazil for sparkling, Peru for pisco.
Chile and Argentina Wine History
1990: Democracy & Free trade
French immigrants bring expertise and grapes.
10 Chilean Wine Families dominate. Low domestic consumption drives exports.
From Allende to Pinochet
Chile exports more than Argentina (4th in world). Quality reputation has grown. Low domestic consumption.
Chile’s modern wine era. Value wines lead, as quality image grows. Foreign capital and expertise increase. Carmenère gets a DNA test.
Spanish conquest first vines.
#1 13th C
Incan Empire Irrigation
1541
1820
1900 1920
1943 1950 1950
General Martin liberates Argentina. Mass immigration from Italy. Mendoza-Buenos Aires railway (1895)
1973 1990
1990s
2008
TODAY
Confidence and free trade restored under Menem. Wineries grow exports as domestic consumption falls. Foreign capital arrives.
Evita, the Perón era Argentina ranks 5th in production; 10th in exports. Terroir and single vineyards are quality drivers. Spanish conquest: first vines (Criolla Chica/Mission) planted. Mendoza is a top wine capital by 1589.
La Belle Epoque: Argentina is 8th richest nation.
Brazil Wine History 1532
1875
1840
1970s
1979
1990s
2005
2020 Portuguese officially “discover” Brazil. First vines arrived in 1532.
1840 plantings on the south coast of Rio Grande are considered first successful vines in Brazil.
Foreign capital from Moet & Chandon and Bacardi supports modernization.
Winemaking taken hold in Serra Gaúcha; Italian immigrants drive vine-growing.
Modern Brazilian Wine era takes off; investments in viticulture help address humidity constraints.
Jancis Robinson, MW, declares Brazil New Region to Watch
Chilean enologist Mario Geisse founds Família Geisse winery.
Brazil ranks 3rd in wine production in South America; 15th in global production. Exports are still limited. Rio Grande do Sul represents 90% of wine production. Serra Gaúcha region is the most established with 5 sub-regions: Vale dos Vinhedos, Pinto Bandeira, Altos Montes, Farroupilha, and Monte Belo.
Família Geisse Cave Geisse Brut 2016 (Pinto Bandeira, Serra Gaúcha, Brazil)
How does it taste? Varietal: 70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir Color: Greenish reflection in the straw yellow color Aromas: Elegant and delicate, reminiscent of white fruits at the beginning; white flowers, apricots, apple, yeast and roasted scents. Presents notes of honey and crystallized fruit. Taste: Delicate notes of white fruits followed by apricots, apple, yeast and roasted scents. Notes of honey and candied fruit.
Família Geisse Vineyards
Crossing the Andes
Chile and Argentina
Impact of the Andes Chile ACONCAGUA 22,841ʹ
PAC IF IC OCEAN (HUMBOLDT)
C O A STA L PLAIN
C O A STA L RANGE
IN T E R M E D IAT E DEPRESSION
ANDES M O U N TA I N S
Impact of the Andes Argentina
Argentina Wine Country
Grape Variety: Torrontés q Torrontés is unique to Argentina, a descendant of the Spanish Mission plantings. Wildly misclassified over the years, it’s a South American heirloom variety. q The northern Calchaquí Valleys in Salta are best-known for Torrontés. The grape thrives at high altitude, up to 10,100 feet with minimal rainfall (8-in/year). **These are the highest vineyards in the world. q We like grapes that work hard! Mountain vines dig deep into the soil to find water, minerality and character; don’t overripen with cool nights, essential to acidity and balance.
How does it taste? Color: Light yellow, with golden and green hues Aromas
q Colomé: Aromatic florals (roses, jasmines) and citrus; the aromas are deceptive, you think it will be sweet but it is a dry white q Crios: Crisp, refreshing and aromatic, with a bouquet of citrus fruits, passion fruit, lychee and white flowers Taste
q Colomé: like a fresh fruit salad, with hints of oregano, honey or citrus zest q Balbo: Lively acidity, a hint of creaminess Finish: Crisp acidity, minerality and depth make these both great “food wines.” Do not hold these wine. Drink within 2 years of the vintage.
Bodega Colomé Estate Torrontés 2019
Susana Balbo Crios Torrontés 2019
Altura Máxima (10,100’: highest vines in the world)
Catena Alta “Historic Rows” Malbec 2016/2017 Grape Variety: Malbec •
Originally from Cahors-Bordeaux in southwest France. It became a superstar in Argentina. It loves altitude, cool nights and warm days.
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Deeply colored. Bright inky purple.
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Most planted variety in Argentina (about 75% of plantings)
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At high altitude, Malbec takes on acidity, intense color, and sweet tannins; great for barrel-aging and cellar worthy wines.
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Aromas/Flavors: black cherry, plum, raspberry and blackberry. Also: violets.
Catena Alta “Historic Rows” Malbec 2016/2017 100% Malbec (Catena Family Vineyard Blend)
How does it taste?
Catena Alta is an assemblage of historic rows within the Catena family Estate vineyards. The 2016 & 2017 vintage blends were both: q
Lot 4, La Piramide Vineyard, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo (3116 feet)
Aromas: fresh violets and berries
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Lot 1, Nicasia Vineyard, Altamira, San Carlos, Valle de Uco (3592 feet)
Taste: Rich but fresh. Denser berry, spice and chocolate mint flavors blend with crisper, herbal berry notes.
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Lot 9, Adrianna Vineyard Tupungato, Valle de Uco (4757 feet)
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Lot 6, Angélica Sur Vineyard, San Carlos, Valle de Uco (3608 feet)
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Lot 18, Angelica Vineyard, Maipú, Luján de Cuyo (3018 feet)
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Soils: mainly alluvial, gravel, limestone with rounded rocks in the bottom. The exception: Angelica Sur, sandy loam.
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Vineyard lots are hand-harvested, fermented individually with wild yeasts.
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Blended and aged for 18 months in French oak.
Color: deep purple-plum
Finish: Long finish and great balance; not over-oaked, shows minerality and herbs
Dr. Laura Catena and Nicolas Catena
Nicolas Catena Zapata has averaged 96 over the past decade from Robert Parker, a score surpassed by only six other wines globally. Argentina is moving to Single Vineyard Fincas/grand crus and will soon launch the “Gran Parcela” designation for its top wines.
Chilean Wine Country
INTERMEDIATE DEPRESSION
COASTAL PLAIN
COASTAL RANGE
ANDES MOUNTAINS
E
Chile: Many Micro-Climates
Andes Cabernet Sauvignon (Puente Alto, Maipo)
Casablanca Valley
Atacama Desert
Lapostolle Cuveé Alexandre Carménère 2016/2018 (Apalta Single Vineyard) Grape Variety 2016 (85% Carménère, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon) 2018 (85% Carménère, 15% Syrah) q Carménère is a medium-bodied red wine that originated in Bordeaux and is now almost exclusive to Chile. q Whoops! In 1994, DNA analysis revealed that most Chilean Merlot was Carménère. q Look for: red-and-black fruit flavors (like Merlot) and lots of herbs and green peppercorn. Low-end Carménère can taste too herbal-to-bitter. q This is Single Vineyard Carménère from the celebrated Apalta vineyard (Colchagua Valley). Original 19th Century plantings. q 2016 was an El Niño year (longer, cooler growing season)
Lapostolle Cuveé Alexandre Carménère 2016/2018 (Domaines Bournet-Lapostolle, Apalta Single Vineyard) 2016 (El Niño): 85% Carménère, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon 2018: 85% Carménère, 15% Syrah
How does it taste? Color
Intense, deep red color with purple edges Aromas
q Lots of layers; dried sage and earth gives way to fresh blueberries (2016) q Expressive and intense nose with cassis and black currant aromas (2018) Taste
q Rich, with still-young tannins. Chocolate and ripe plums (2016) q Elegant palate with round and persistent tannins, with fresh cherry along with a light toast flavor (2018) Finish Oak is well-integrated; a clean, medium long finish
2017: Cyril de Bournet, Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle and Charles de Bournet Marnier Lapostolle
Viña Vik
M i l l a h u e , C a c h a p o a l Va l l ey
Lapostolle Residence
Helen Gregory helen@gregoryvine.com (646) 621-3559 @gregoryandvine
gregoryvine.com