GERMANY A FRESH PERSPECTIVE APRIL 2015
COMMENT & CONTENTS
TALKING ’BOUT EVOLUTION
G
erman wines are subtle in the sense that the country’s producers don’t really do blockbusters. They don’t have to. The country is blessed with two of the world’s most evocative grape varieties as its lead players, namely Riesling and Pinot Noir. Both are at their most entrancing when handled with a light touch, expressing a rare blend of attractive drinking and complexity, combining elegance and depth, with a natural affinity for food and clearly expressive of their terroir. The rest of the cast weighs in with some pretty talented characters too, with Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Silvaner and Gewürztraminer among the highlights. Each has its own distinct identity, but typically shares a common thread of fresh, aromatic, elegant purity borne of grapes grown towards the cooler northern viticultural limits. Again these are also versatile food-pairing styles. This much is common knowledge, at least among those versed in Germany’s wines. But what is less widely appreciated is how the German wine scene has evolved in recent years, with producers presenting a more dynamic, modern and cool image to the world, reflected in myriad aspects from contemporary labelling and drier wine styles (especially Riesling), to greater communication of Germany’s own gastronomic credentials and the related role of wine,
plus how this translates to other global cuisines. Along with a younger generation of outwardlooking winemakers, global warming has played its part too, allowing both those drier Rieslings and Germany’s rising star Pinot Noir to express themselves more generously across diverse vintages, but to do so without losing their integrity. The upshot can be seen – or rather tasted – in the fantastic selection of Top 50 wines on these pages, wines that represent the whole panoply of German winemaking, from the traditional to the modern, representing a superb snapshot of all that is going on. It’s an evolution that you can taste for yourself at the G Major Wines of Germany annual tasting on April 30 in London, where the quality, innovation, dynamism and versatility of the country’s wines will be represented. And, as this supplement explores, this new face of Germany is already beginning to cause a stir among the opinion formers of the UK trade.
Andrew Catchpole Supplement editor
CONTENTS 3
MODERN FACE
6
REVIVALISTS
8
VERSATILITY
10
SPÄTBURGUNDER
11
G MAJOR
13
31 DAYS OF RIESLING
15
TOP 50
23
GERMAN WINE REGIONS
Riesling and Pinot Noir at the forefront of the German renaissance
A Wines of Germany Supplement to Harpers Wine & Spirit Trades Review by William Reed Business Media. SUPPLEMENT EDITOR Andrew Catchpole HARPERS EDITOR Richard Siddle ART EDITOR Christine Freeman CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Anne Krebiehl MW SUB EDITOR Emily Kearns ADVERTISING, SALES & MARKETING Business Development Associate Sara Hauffé-Brett EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR DRINKS GROUP Andrew Reed GROUP MANAGING DIRECTOR Charles Reed SUBSCRIPTION Harpers Wine & Spirit is available on annual subscription at the following rate (UK) £217 ENQUIRIES Tel: +44 (0)800 652 6512 Fax: +44 (0)1371 851808 Email: customer.service@wrbm.com Address: Harpers Wine and Spirit, William Reed Business Media, Trinity House, Sculpins Lane, Wethersfield, Braintree, Essex, CM7 4AY FREEPOST RSSZ-TAZG-KHGR LICENSING & SYNDICATION Harpers Wine & Spirit is available for international licensing and syndication. For more information please email robert.proctor@wrbm. com or call +44 1293 610401
Germany’s champions explain their passion for the wines
Andrew Catchpole explores Riesling’s fabulous affinity for food
Anne Krebiehl MW celebrates a rising star in Pinot Noir
Harpers Wine & Spirit is published by William Reed Business Media, Broadfield Park, Crawley RH11 9RT Web: www.wrbm.com Tel: 01293 613400 General Enquiries: 0800 652 6514
Innovation and dynamism at the annual Wines of Germany UK tasting
An invitation to showcase Germany’s great white grape
A taste of the best from the best of the tasters
© William Reed Business Media 2015 All rights reserved Printed by Stephens & George
Mapping the myriad vineyards of this diverse country
2 | Germany Supplement
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EYEBROW
THE
MODERN FACE OF GERMANY
Riesling and Pinot Noir are leading the charge as Germany carves out a quality niche in the UK. Andrew Catchpole reports
Harpers.co.uk
Supplement | 3
INTRODUCTION
A
t Vinoteca Clerkenwell German Riesling is being dispensed on tap to wine-savvy diners and in Shoreditch hipsters can be found sipping delicately on Pinot Noir at Sager + Wilde. Gordon Ramsay’s restaurants are pouring Grosses Gewächs quality level German whites and reds by the glass, as are the classy folk at the Wolseley and J Sheekey, while guests at hot Thai noshery Smoking Goat in Soho have been quaffing down Riesling by the bucketload. Clearly something is afoot in the more happening corners of the capital. Further afield, tell-tale green-framed shades and accompanying Riesling tattoos have been spotted at foodie markets and festivals from Brighton to St Andrews, as German wine goes on tour, with the likes of BBC Food & Drink’s wine guru Joe Wadsack often found fronting the show. Meanwhile, quality merchants such as Loki in Birmingham report that thirsty young enthusiasts have been lining up for Enomatic-dispensed shots of Riesling, with sales on a high as people discover the mix of quality, enjoyability and value delivered in the wines. Could Riesling and the broader swathe of German styles be in the throes of a renaissance? Certainly acceptance and knowledge is growing. And if there is a passionate person behind a list, one that can handsell and knows and understands Germany’s wines, then the wines can and do sell. Moreover, often as not the converts that these wines are winning are drawn from a more youthful generation of enthusiasts that love the idea of discovering something new and individual. “We’ve been going a bit mad with Riesling recently,” says Phil Innes, owner of independent merchant Loki Wines in Birmingham. “One of the things that helped us was being involved in the 31 Days of Riesling promotion, and I also went out to Germany last year – we sold more German wines in those 31 days than we did in the whole of the previous year.” “We are lucky, we have a very young client base and they don’t have the same preconceptions, or misconceptions, as the older generation,” continues Innes. “These customers don’t necessarily understand what German Riesling is all about, but dry New World styles have helped to build their confidence and the key is tasting, so we almost always have German Riesling in the Enomatic machine and once they become familiar with dry styles then they really get into it and explore.” It’s not just the customer base that has been changing, though. German wine has been evolving too, both in terms of the styles of (especially) Riesling, with a focus on dryness for today’s drinkers, but also the labelling and naming of the wines, providing an easier “in” for the uninitiated. Global warming has played its part as well with Germany’s vineyards producing riper grapes, making for more rounded,
4 | Germany Supplement
easier-drinking wines and ones that still retain their balance when vinified dry. Passionate German wine advocate and ex-sommelier James Comyn at Howard Ripley Wines describes a “mini-revolution” over the past few years – one which has seen a big shift in the style, quality and presentation of German wines available in the UK. “Things have changed and changed quite rapidly, with a huge expansion in dry Riesling and also a huge jump in quality of these dry Rieslings from the producers,” says Comyn. “Ten years ago dry wines were often a bit of an afterthought for producers used to focusing on sweeter styles, but factors like climate change, meaning better ripeness, plus a younger generation in the wineries with a drier palate themselves, have seen a real jump in the quality of the dry wines.” Comyn points out that this jump has been across the board, from entry-level trocken wines to top-end Grosses Gewächs wines, changing perception at all levels. Howard Ripley’s trade sales to restaurants have in a couple of years shifted from 80% Burgundy and 20% Germany to around half and half, with Spätburgunder also on a roll. Many of these sales are accounted for by high-end or hip restaurants pouring Riesling and Spätburgunder by the glass. Spätburgunder is clearly a wine to watch, not least because the prices of red Burgundy have been marching ever skywards. As Anne Krebiehl MW points out elsewhere on these pages, German Pinot Noir (as it is now increasingly labelled) provides an Old World-style counterpoint, but often at a very attractive price. Claudia Pech at German Wine Agencies picks up on the theme. “We are seeing increasing demand through all channels, but a significant increase from fine-dining establishments and fashionable London bars and eateries, plus independent merchants,” says Pech. “And it seems as if German Pinot Noir is on everyone’s lips, from London to Edinburgh and beyond, and it’s looking like Germany’s new star.” Germany is the third largest producer of Pinot Noir in the world and, as Pech points out, Pinotphiles will seek the variety out regardless of origin if the quality is there in the glass. Set against that her assertion doesn’t sound quite so bold. What Germany needs, though, if it is to seriously grow beyond being a niche love affair for those budding aficionados who are “in the know”, is an image upon which to build wider sales of its wines. European neighbours France, Italy and Spain all have a clear gastronomic and vine-strewn identity Harpers.co.uk
STATISTICALLY SPEAKING German wines have increased sales in the UK across all price bands above £7, with rises of +90% at £7 to £8, +17% at £8 to £9, +138% at £9 to £10 and +14% above £10, showing that consumers are buying more and better quality German wines. Trade-based examples of this renewed interest include a remarkable 100% growth in German wine sales at Marks & Spencer, driven by labels over £8, plus a doubling of the German listings at Oddbins, which has identified Germany as an exciting new growth area. Feedback from numerous customer sampling activities at food and drink festivals over the past two years shows that a younger generation of consumers are open to experimenting with Germany’s wine styles and are attracted to the niche, premium image of varieties such as Riesling and Pinot Noir.
GERMAN WINE PER £ PRICE BAND IN THE UK (Nielsen data, MAT to w/e October 11, 2014)
£3.01–£4 £4.01–£5 £5.01–£6 £6.01–£7 £7.01–£8 £8.01–£9 £9.01–£10 £10.01 and up
0%
INITIATIVES FOR 2015 Wines of Germany’s 2015 marketing campaign is focused on increasing listings and visibility for German wines, with many opportunities for consumers to taste up and down the country. These include several trade and consumer activities, such as the Give it a Whirl… consumer tour, plus the Top 50 competition and the new-format G Major trade tasting on 30 April. Joining these will be the return of the popular and hugely successful 31 Days of Riesling promotion with restaurants and merchants in July, plus a Get it On… competition to engage with UK buyers looking to extend their German portfolio.
that resonates with wine drinkers. Then there are the cities, Paris, Milan, Rome and Barcelona, which are well visited and culturally understood. Plus a wealth of restaurants in the UK plying versions of the national cuisines. A blank canvas may mean that the wines are approached with no past baggage, but it doesn’t necessarily help to promote them either. Germany, of course, has Berlin, a cool, lively, architecturally diverse city, with a fantastic nightlife and food and drink scene. The wine regions are also as evocative as anything you’ll find elsewhere, from the stunning slopes of the Mosel to the picture-postcard pretty villages nestling in the undulations of the Pfalz and Rheinhessen. The winery architecture, too, along with the restaurant scene is another big draw. Speak to younger (non-German) northern Europeans and it’s pretty clear that Germany and its capital are an influential draw when it comes to setting trends. The catch is Harpers.co.uk
-37% -3% +55% -5% +90% +17% +138% +14%
that few Brits have any idea of the speed of life on Germany’s cutting-edge cultural scene. This innovative vein, though, is also influencing the ways in which the wines are presented and sold. A Bauer Riesling carried by Red Squirrel Wine (see Sex, Drugs & Rock & Roll, just Riesling label, left) is one of many examples of how winemakers are injecting a modern, sometimes humorous and certainly more eye-catching and accessible feel to their wines. “The traditionalist in me says that a wine shouldn’t be judged by its label, but Bauer is an old family estate that had traditional labels and wasn’t selling much wine, so they slapped a new label on – which really draws people over at tastings – and they are now selling a lot without changing the wine,” says Nick Darlington at Red Squirrel Wine. Darlington is one of several UK suppliers who talks about a split in Germany’s producers between an old guard and a new generation. The former continue to sell often high-end traditional and traditionally presented wines, while the latter, comprising younger producers in regions like the Pfalz, are making modern, drier styles, exploiting a gap in the mid-market and funking up the presentation to draw customers in. Benjamin Donnadieu at The Winery, a London-based German specialist owned by record producer David Motion, agrees, also adding that Germany is ahead of its major European competitors on other levels too. “Germany is coming across as a younger, more dynamic producing nation than other European nations, with producers taking risks with minimalist and catchy labels, and these same people are doing a very good job in terms of marketing their wines, through events in London and other cities,” he says. “And Germany is becoming more popular for its organic and biodynamic culture of wines, which is very strong, so whereas a country like Italy can sell on romance, Germany is really beginning to sell on understanding of the quality and style of its wines.” There are, of course, many varieties besides Riesling and Pinot Noir coming out of Germany, including Gewürztraminer, Pinot Gris (Grauburgunder), Pinot Blanc (Weissburgunder) and Silvaner, to name but a few. All have their place on wine lists, with many food-friendly styles, but it is the twin peaks of Riesling and Pinot Noir upon which the reputation of Germany’s quality wines is primarily growing. And it would seem that the cutting edge of the UK’s restaurant scene has been quick to get in on the ground floor. Germany Supplement | 5
e
INTERVIEW & OPINION
IN THEIR OPINION…
THE BERLIN WUNDERKIND When it comes to pairing “dirty, dodgy and wild” food, German wines are more than up to the task, as Anne Krebiehl MW discovers
B
illy Wagner, sommelier and restaurateur, just opened a new restaurant in Berlin. He is one of Germany’s most successful wine pros and previously worked at the famous Weinbar Rutz, also in Berlin, where he curated an all-German wine list. His new venture, focusing on local produce and eclectic wines, is called Nobelhart & Schmutzig. Noble because of the “uncompromising quality” of “brutally local” produce, which nonetheless eschews traditional luxury items like foie gras or lobster. Hart & Schmutzig (which translates as “hard and dirty”) because “a [ful]filling evening, either solo or with friends, often brings with it an element of the dirty, dodgy and wild”. Embedded in an international list, he showcases German wines – Weissburgunder from Baden, Pinot-based Sekt from Rheinhessen, Silvaner from Franken and Riesling in every imaginable shade, even one made in amphora. Here, the irreverent vinous wunderkind Wagner talks about his favourite subject: German wine.
You have many German Rieslings on your list – why?
Riesling is totally consumer-friendly. To wine newbies it offers charming fruit, something animating, that great aromatic interplay of fruit and acidity. To wine pros it offers edginess and character. And if you take a closer look, Riesling really works with any fine cooking in the world, whether it’s Spanish, Italian, Nordic or Asian. Riesling’s fruit, juiciness, acidity and freshness goes extremely well with such cuisines. Riesling often has this ability to go charmingly along with, rather than above, food. This is why it is so successful in top gastronomy.
The food at Nobelhart & Schmutzig is all about curing, pickling, preserving and salting. How does Riesling work in this context?
Any dish that shines with acidity, herbal savouriness or even sweet elements works extremely well with Riesling because the variety has so many aspects. It also counters fat, works at lower alcohol levels and in the end it always has something enlivening that doesn’t saturate or pall. Riesling comes in so many facets. For my menus I need 6 | Germany Supplement
wines that deliver elegance, finesse and lightness so that food remains in the foreground. I need wines that are neither subordinate nor dominating where food is concerned. Riesling does that.
Which hot new trends do you see emerging in Germany?
Winemaker Tom Lubbe of Matassa [Roussillon] once told me “In German wines there is too much Geisenheim” [Germany’s foremost viticultural college]. What he wanted to say was that German winemakers often just used to stick to the rulebook. Perhaps we Germans do have a tendency to think too much, to keep a tab on everything, to leave nothing to chance. But today, there are more and more people who don’t just decide everything in their head but go with their gut feeling. This new winemaking generation is incredibly curious and has an appetite for risk. More and more do their own thing, they experiment, they have courage, they express themselves: they have vision. These youngsters really change things, they are totally enthusiastic. That’s a great step because their wines are authentic and great. These are no longer just textbook wines.
What other German varieties apart from Riesling excite you right now?
I think Silvaner is exciting, and Scheurebe – in the right soils it can make extremely great, intriguing wines, but so can Silvaner. There is such a buoyant Silvaner scene in Franken and Rheinhessen with interesting dry Silvaners, sometimes with, sometimes without botrytis – these are rich wines, they are powerful and masculine and make a wonderful counterpart to Riesling. Harpers.co.uk
Germany’s food-friendly wines – Riesling in particular – are understandably at the forefront of the country’s cutting-edge gastronomic scene, which rivals any in the world. With this in mind, Anne Krebiehl MW and Andrew Catchpole turn to champions in their respective homelands to contrast and compare approaches and insights from leading sommeliers, supporters and suppliers of the best of German wines
RIESLING REVIVALISTS & CHAMPIONS Mark Flounders, manager, wholesale and Charlotte Street branch, Vagabond Wines
“I recently did a vintage in Germany, at a small production winery in the Saar, and it was a pretty cool experience. Producers are approaching it in different ways, a classical way, or a modern way, with people differentiating themselves from the crowd. Quality is always key, but beyond this many producers are pushing the boundaries of how their labels and bottles look, doing interesting things with the ways in which they produce wines, being modern and upbeat, adding a barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc to the portfolio, for example, so that they can offer an importer a spread of styles. “Riesling is such a versatile variety stylistically, so it can appeal to numerous palate types. It fits the bill for someone after a crisp, dry and fruity style of wine, especially the drier trocken styles, but the deeper, richer, even more aromatic Spätlese wines can offer a fuller but still balanced palate. We have about six Rieslings on the Enomatics, allowing us to have many styles on tasting, and for people that don’t know quite what they want this pretty much covers it all.”
Jan Konetzki, head sommelier, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay
“I tend to think of German Riesling as being in three categories: dry with no detectable residual sugar, so trocken and some Kabinetts; plus more off-dry styles including Spätlese; and then the sweet end from Auslese up to Trockenbeerenauslese. “For me Riesling is king for food and wine pairing, with sweet and savoury matches, such as Auslese with foie gras, usually being very successful. And dry and off-dry Rieslings tend to be very food-friendly. With no oak, low alcohol, Harpers.co.uk
good acidity, minerality and plenty of citrus and stone fruit, they let the food be itself while providing a good foil for the flavours. “With modern cuisine at the moment we are seeing a lot of combinations of cooked and uncooked, differently textured foods, quite complex dishes. You may see raw and cooked vegetables and fruits, reductions, vinegars and pickles, and Rieslings can work very well with these contrasts, having a lot to offer, complementing and being a good fit, but also with the benefit of simply being a rather nice drink at the table. “With Riesling, people either really love it or can’t get their head around it. It’s not so much a Marmite wine, more like a fabric – you either do or don’t like cashmere, it is more a texture, but there is no right or wrong. Some become converts and some say ‘this smell is not for me’.”
Martin Lam, wine and restaurant consultant
“With the huge variety of foods available in London at the moment and Germany’s Rieslings and Pinot Noirs being eminently matchable with so many different sorts of cuisine, there are so many opportunities for these wines on lists and this is something that I hope to communicate during my talk at the G Major Wines of Germany trade tasting in April. “Riesling may always remain niche, but the niche will enlarge. What could be cooler than drinking the most sophisticated wine that there is? Once you’ve got Riesling, it’s not something you lose.”
James Comyn, trade sales director, Howard Ripley Wines
“It’s a very interesting time for German wines. I’m an ex-sommelier myself, and while German wine has always been a sommelier’s favourite, they have typically tended to buy lots of it but not sell it and then drink it themselves. But this has changed and changed quite rapidly. In the past few years, we’ve seen a huge expansion in dry Riesling sales with drinkers in their 20s and 30s, people who have generally never come across German wines before, so they don’t associate them with the sweeter, older styles. “There has been a big push from the sommeliers themselves, too, and it feels like the tide has really turned for German wines, including Spätburgunder. We are getting to the level where we really shouldn’t see a Michelin star or good restaurant without German Riesling or Pinot Noir on the list and this will continue to filter down.” Germany Supplement | 7
RIESLING
DRINKING VERSATILITY German Riesling combines sublime drinkability with superb foodpairing possibilities. Just keep it simple, says Andrew Catchpole
“
“I think the word you are looking for is ‘yum!’” Jancis Robinson MW
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O
ver a bottle of rather sublime German Riesling, Jancis Robinson MW once suggested to me: “I think the word you are looking for is ‘yum!’” I’d been offering up descriptors, all of which seemed rather prosaic in the face of the wine, and this piece of “keep it simple” advice has proved useful to this day. Pop a Riesling in front of a non-initiate and invite them to indulge in the liquid in the glass and I’ve yet to meet one who doesn’t like what’s in front of them. Don’t overcomplicate it, keep it dry(ish) and more than likely a convert will be won. This same wisdom seems to play out in the on-trade where relatively few customers take the plunge of their own accord and dive on in. But given a steer, perhaps by a passionate sommelier or as part of a wine and food-pairing menu, the reassurance tends to work wonders and people like what they find. In fact, for many, especially younger diners, German Riesling provides precisely the kind of individual “revelation” that adds a sense of adventure and personal discovery to their drinking repertoire. “My clients are mostly younger people and I find that they are very willing to try German Rieslings. While the idea is still relatively new to a lot of people, interest is rising and those that have tried the wines come back and ask for more,” says Ram Chhetri, head sommelier at Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen. “I try to avoid words like terroir, but explain that as a variety it’s about the purity of what is in the glass, and that it is a grape that you can drink so easily, while also being very good value for the quality. “For me the most important thing is to show your own confidence in the styles of wine, to offer dry styles first by the glass and build up confidence,” he continues. “It offers a good talking point and, once you have shown people what they can expect, you can then later offer the wines by the bottle and perhaps also begin to explore off-dry styles.” Admittedly, the same could be said of any less familiar grape variety, wine style or region, but from a sommelier or restaurateur’s perspective a major additional benefit of encouraging Riesling knowledge is the broad food flexibility inherent in so many of the wines. Put relatively simply, Riesling typically combines the acidity and balance of citrus and stone fruit character, along with no oak and lowish alcohol, yet with a persistence of character and length that makes for a great complementary foil to many elements in many dishes. For the same reasons, it is also a sublimely drinkable variety on its own. “It depends so much on the style, you have sweeter styles which work with a lot of Asian food, or drier styles that work beautifully with fish and seafood, or more aged wines that can pair with more complex dishes,” says Laura Rhys MS, head sommelier at La Trompette. “And the key for me with Riesling is that it can have richness, but still with great acidity, which makes it so good to either drink as an aperitif, or match with food.” Harpers.co.uk
“
There are amazing dry and aromatic German Rieslings and if you have a selection of wines by the glass there is no excuse for not listing one at this time of year” Jade Koch Like Chhetri, Rhys cites the drier, young styles as being particularly good as an introduction for people, and finds that her customers are very open once the food pairing possibilities are explained: “If people are looking for something dry and crisp and refreshing, then these styles of Riesling can really fit the bill and allow great flexibility with the food that they are eating.” Chhetri further elaborates on the pairing possibilities, suggesting that the regular citing of Riesling as “good to pair with Asian food” is at once too broad and too simplistic. Once customers are drawn in, through the drier wines, it then becomes essential to communicate the possibilities that the various styles offer, but without bamboozling guests who may then take fright and retreat to a safe haven of familiarity. “Riesling doesn’t overpower food, so the dry and delicate wines work amazingly well with the delicate raw fish of sushi, or add a crispness to fresh seafood like scallops or grilled sole,” he says. “But then if you look to richer meats, like pork, duck or goose, the traditional pairing of a little more sweetness combined with high acidity will cut through the richness, while again creamier and spicier foods, including many curries, work with more off-dry styles.” Seasonality can be brought into the equation too. Sommelier and consultant Jade Koch suggests that the sheer drinkability, the lightness and elegance of Riesling, means that it can be
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a great addition by the glass through spring and summer. “There are amazing dry and aromatic German Rieslings and if you have a selection of wines by the glass there is no excuse for not listing one at this time of year,” she says. “It can also be worth suggesting pairing a German Riesling with really quite simple food, like a good roast chicken, or even pork belly, which gives you the freedom to show off the wine with a really good pairing that would sing but not overcomplicate it. “Listing wines by levels of dryness and sweetness – and pointing out that you have done this – can be very helpful for people so that they know what they are getting and this takes away the worry, for some, that they may end up with a sweet wine,” adds Koch. “And with regard to the sweeter styles, it’s also worth highlighting that a lot of sweetness is used in people’s culinary repertoire, a dollop of redcurrant or apple sauce, for example, so there is no reason to be worried about some sweetness in wines – wine for me should be like a garnish, so it’s worth explaining that the wine should do the same job as a sauce, and its worth talking to people and explaining this.” The words “by the glass” crop up time and time again, and for good reason. As Koch points out, entry to higher quality German Riesling begins at a relatively high price for most wine consumers and, with a few notable exceptions such as Waitrose, is anyway a rare find on the supermarket shelves where most do their wine shopping. The value for money, though, can indisputably be outstanding for those prepared to trade up, but the challenge comes in providing that first, relatively affordable and risk-free step. This is where restaurants, from good food-led pubs to those in the Michelin-starred firmament can really stand out by stepping up to the mark with tasters and encouragement offered by the glass. Then it’s about letting the “yum” factor do its work – what Restaurant Gordon Ramsay’s head sommelier Jan Konetzki describes as “the sometimes overlooked simplicity of enjoyment”. With regard to German Riesling he adds: “Wine education is important, but enjoyment education is most important.” And enjoyment is what quality German Rieslings of any hue offer to the initiated in spades. Germany Supplement | 9
SPÄTBURGUNDER
PINNING DOWN PINOT NOIR Spätburgunder – Germany’s Pinot Noir – proves almost impossible to define. Anne Krebiehl casts a MW’s eye on the climate, soils and winemaking styles that deliver such diversity
S
pätburgunder has a long tradition in German vineyards. Some think it was planted as early as 884 by a great-grandson of Charlemagne, but Spätburgunder plantings by Cistercian monks in the early Middle Ages are documented. Spätburgunder is part of the wine fabric in its traditional strongholds of Baden, the Ahr valley and small pockets of Rheingau and Franken. But today Spätburgunder grows in every one of Germany’s 13 wine regions. Today there are 11,775ha of Spätburgunder, which makes Germany the world’s third-largest grower of Pinot Noir, after France and the US respectively. Baden alone has more Pinot Noir – 5,591ha – than either Australia or New Zealand*. Moreover, Spätburgunder covers three degrees of latitude: from northerly Sachsen at 51 degrees to a southerly 48 degrees in Baden. For reference, Beaune in Burgundy is at 47 degrees. Within these latitudes there are countless aspects, altitudes and inclines. This explains the climatic element of the diversity and is also the reason for Germany’s Pinot success: Spätburgunder loves a warm spot in otherwise cooler surroundings. Many vineyards in Germany’s marginal climate are thus predestined for the slow, steady ripening of Spätburgunder, helped along by global warming. Klaus Peter Keller, famous for his G-Max Riesling, also makes silky Pinot Noir in Rheinhessen and says of one of his top vineyards: “Frauenberg is a windy site. Thirty years ago Pinot Noir would not have ripened here. We are clear beneficiaries of climate change. Sometimes we can leave these Pinot Noir grapes on the vine until the end of October.” The second element of diversity is soil: German Spätburgunder grows on the volcanic basalt of the extinct Kaiserstuhl and in the deep loess of its lee sides; there is also volcanic ash. You can almost taste the heat of these 10 | Germany Supplement
black, sun-warmed stones while wines from loess are rich and rounded. Then there are numerous sandstone sites, especially in Franken, which make for very delicate Pinots. Sandstone crops up again along the river Rhine, thrown up in a patchwork of soils during the Upper Rhine Rift alongside shell limestone, rhyolite, granite and gneiss. There are large limestone areas in Pfalz and Rheinhessen along with stretches of loam and clay. There are Keuper – or heavier marl – sites in Württemberg with more sandstone formations. In the Rheingau, Spätburgunder grows on micaschist and quartzite, in the Mosel and the Ahr valley it often grows on blue slate and the wines almost taste smoky. All of this is just a small geological sketch but it explains why there are endless expressions of Spätburgunder. If climate and soil were not enough, there are all the man-made variables of clonal selection, viticulture and winemaking. Germany has made huge strides in clonal research and it is surprising that its loose-clustered, small-berried quality clones are not more well-known and planted internationally. Traditionally, Spätburgunder was made in large, used oak barrels and some winemakers still make simpler, fruit-driven styles that way. Smaller barrels like pièce and barrique are very common, but increasingly so are a mix of sizes to emphasise fruit and soil above oak, which now often comes from local German forests. What does this tell us? There’s only one thing for it: taste and make up your own mind. The only thing all German Spätburgunders have in common is their Old World style. Germany simply adds intriguing, arresting and unique facets to the dazzling and delicious world of Pinot Noir. Zum wohl! *New Zealand had 5,569ha in 2014, Australia had just below 5,000ha in 2012 (latest reliable figures). Harpers.co.uk
WINES OF GERMANY UK TRADE TASTING
A MODERN GERMANY
The core theme at this year’s exciting new-format G Ma: or UK Trade Tasting will be to show off Germany’s quality, innovation, dynamism and versatility in a fun and exciting way
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A
s such, G Major is all about presenting the modern face of German wines to the UK wine trade, and this year’s event is packed with a host of features and events that promise to make this the most exciting German tasting yet. There will be much to whet the appetites of independent merchants, sommeliers, restaurateurs and suppliers alike. With a selection of the most ambitious and creative young winemakers all present under one roof, there will be myriad styles of German wines to taste, as well as a host of seminars led by top wine experts including Anne Krebiehl MW, David Motion, Martin Lam and Martin Darting. Showcasing over 200 wines from the movers and shakers in German winemaking today, G Major will be a tasting with a twist and one not to be missed. Germany Supplement | 11
WINES OF GERMANY UK TRADE TASTING
WINES OF GERMANY UK TRADE TASTING: SEMINARS & TASTINGS Wine-chef Martin Lam will be on hand for two insightful sessions exploring the pairing possibilities presented by Germany’s incredibly food-friendly varieties, delivering some inspirational and surprising insights. 12.30pm–1.15pm – session 1 1.45pm–2.30pm – session 2
Throughout the day Places will be strictly limited for the seminars, so to ensure your place please book now by emailing: germanwine@thisisphipps.com
Anne Krebiehl MW will be leading a seminar on Germany’s rising star, Pinot Noir, exploring how and why the quality of these superb wines is about to become much more widely known. 2.45pm–3.15pm Wine and sensory expert Martin Darting will be delivering a fascinating hands-on “art class”, exploring how we engage the senses with a quite refreshing approach to wine tasting. 3.30pm–4pm Pop impresario and Riesling lover David Motion will be looking at dry Riesling, guiding tasters through everything from the old school to the new wave. 4.15pm–4.45pm Sommeliers can test their knowledge and tasting skills in a blind tasting competition. Throughout the day Many of the UK’s best German wines will be available to taste on the Top 50 focus table.
G MA: OR WHEN Thursday April 30, 2015 WHERE OXO 2, Tower Wharf, Bargehouse Street, South Bank, London SE1 9PH Enter via riverside stairs TIME 12 noon–6pm RSVP Email germanwine@thisisphipps.com or call 020 7759 7400 For more information please visit: winesofgermany.co.uk
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31 DAYS
31 DAYS OF GERMAN RIESLING
OF GERMAN RIESLING Tom Davidson of Amathus strips for a full Riesling immersion
31 Days mural at Vagabond Wines – winner 2014 Best Retailer
15,000 Samples served over 31 days
348,000 Consumers reached through traditional media channels
50,000
Consumers reached through social media channels
2%
Volume increase of German Riesling
32%
Sales increase of German wines in £8–£9 category
101
Trade outlets joining the campaign
25
Cities and towns reached Harpers.co.uk
Luvian Team Riesling larging it up with Germany’s favourite grape Germany Supplement | 13
31 DAYS OF GERMAN RIESLING
31 DAYS OF GERMAN RIESLING: JULY 2015 What is it?
A month-long, summer promotion organised by Wines of Germany, working with independent merchants, retailers, restaurants and wine bars around the UK to showcase German Riesling. The promotion will run from July 1–31.
Why?
To raise awareness of the great taste, versatility, incredible food-matching ability and different styles of German Riesling.
What’s in it for participating restaurants and retailers?
• £1,000 towards new German wine listings for the best retailer and for the best restaurant. • £500 towards new German listings for the runner-up best retailer and for the runner-up best restaurant. • Sales uplift, creativity of displays and promotions, use of social media, and the number and quality of customer feedback cards received from retailers will all be taken into account when judging the promotions.
Who won last year? • • • •
Winning retailer: Vagabond Wines Runner-up retailer: Ake & Humphris Best restaurant: The Harrow at Little Bedwyn Runner-up restaurant: Bread St Kitchen
What Wines of Germany will do
We will supply a range of branded PoS materials to all participants, such as: • Chalkboards • Bunting • Pens • Corkscrews • Badges • Window stickers • Temporary tattoos • Coasters • Aprons • Customer feedback cards • Leaflets about German wine The Wines of Germany website will host a dedicated microsite for the promotion, with details and links to participating retailers and restaurants. Social media will play a huge role, with a dedicated hashtag for 31 Days of German Riesling on Twitter (#31days) and regular posts on the Wines of Germany Facebook page. We will be running a social media competition for consumers to submit their #Rieslingmoment via Twitter and Facebook, with the winning entry at the end of the campaign winning a weekend trip to Germany.
How do you get involved?
For further details, please contact the Wines of Germany team via email at germanwine@thisisphipps.com or call us on 020 7759 7405.
AWARENESS
15,000 consumers sampled, 50,000 reached through social media, 348,000 reached through traditional media
INCREASE IN SALES
£6+ increased sales by 32% and the fastest growing category was £8–£9
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GERMAN WINE TOP 50
WINES OF GERMANY
TOP 50 REVEALED The owners of some of the UK’s top taste buds gathered together to judge the Top 50 Wines of Germany. Here’s what they discovered
THE PANEL Anne Krebiehl MW is an educator, writer, expert in German wines and a passionate Riesling Revivalist.
Matt Walls, author of the book Drink Me! How to Choose, Taste and Enjoy Wine, is a contributor to several wine publications, a competition judge and is a Riesling Revivalist.
R
iesling Revivalists Anne Krebiehl MW and Matt Walls were joined by Alex Hunt MW of Berkmann Wine Cellars and Roger Jones from the Harrow at Little Bedwyn. Nicky Forrest from Wines of Germany said: “Whilst the majority of the wines selected are currently available in the UK, some of them are actively seeking distribution and the idea behind the Top 50 is to raise the profile of all the wines and to help new wines find a way into the market.” Jones said: “It was interesting to see such a variance of styles, especially with Riesling, and it was also good to see some texture and depth to these wines with lovely layers of concentrated fruit and nice minerality, perfect for the style of food so popular in the UK currently.” Walls said: “Unsurprisingly Riesling stole the show, but what impressed me was the range of styles and expressions that can successfully be achieved with this agile variety.” Hunt commented: “I was intrigued that, whatever philosophical objections we might have had to some of the wines below £8, the overall technical standard was arguably higher than in the £8–£15 flight, which was much more varied in style and quality. The best of this flight of course outperformed the entry-level wines, but it did help to underline the value to be found sub-£8 in Germany – something that is not always recognised perhaps. Pinot Noir is an area of growing interest within German wine, and there were some good examples. With the Riesling, very few wines were too dry or too sweet and, whatever their level of residual sugar happened to be, found a natural balance.” The wines will all be launched and available to taste at the Wines of Germany trade tasting, G Major, on April 30 at OXO 2. To book your place visit winesofgermany.co.uk/gmajor
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Roger Jones owns the Michelin-starred restaurant the Harrow at Little Bedwyn, is a wine writer and was shortlisted for Imbibe Restaurant Personality of the Year 2014.
Alex Hunt MW is purchasing director for Berkmann Wine Cellars, contributor to jancisrobinson.com, a member of the World of Fine Wine Tasting panel and a judge at the Decanter World Wine Awards.
“
I was impressed with the more modern styles of winemaking” Roger Jones Germany Supplement | 15
GERMAN WINE TOP 50 Devil’s Rock Riesling 2014 Pfalz
WHITE £5–£8
devils-rock.com Importer: Bibendum PLB Group RRP: £7.99 Classic lime notes on the palate, good fruit concentration. A good young, fresh Riesling.
Kendermanns Special Edition Riesling 2014 Pfalz
WHITE £8–£15
reh-kendermann.de Importer: Kendermann RRP: £7.49 Fresh and zingy. Great value for money. Delicious.
Mosel
Braunewell Essenheim Riesling Dry ‘Kalkstein’ 2013
reh-kendermann.de
Rheinhessen
Importer: Kendermann RRP: £5.99 Delicate notes of peach – a lovely introduction to Riesling.
weingut-braunewell.de
Blue Nun Riesling 2013 Rheinhessen
Reichsrat von Buhl Riesling Nr.1 QbA 2014
langguthworld.com
Pfalz
Importer: Bottle Green RRP: £8.50 Pretty and floral with good texture.
reichsrat-von-buhl.de
Kendermanns Riesling 2014
Importer: Lea & Sandeman RRP: £15 Lovely clarity and fruit weight with some savoury notes.
Importer: Hayward Brothers RRP: £9.89 Lovely, elegant floral nose with fresh, bright citrus fruit on the palate.
Bamberger Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Riesling Trocken 2013 Nahe weingut-bamberger.de Importer: Lea & Sandeman RRP: £13.95 Bursting with apricots and mangoes; a vibrant wine with a long finish.
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GERMAN WINE TOP 50 Flick Nonnberg Riesling QbA Trocken 2013
Emil Bauer und Söhne Asshole Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Rheingau
Pfalz
flick-wein.de
bauerwein.de
Importer: The Winery RRP: £14.99 A young delicate Riesling with lovely citrus peel.
Importer: Red Squirrel Wine RRP: £13.99 Classic Sauvignon nose and lively moreish grapefruit palate.
Louis Guntrum Dry Riesling 2014
Hans Lang Hattenheimer Wisselbrumen Dry Riesling G.G 2012
Rheinhessen guntrum.de Importer: ABS Wine Agencies RRP: £9 Soft tropical fruit nuances on the nose. Lovely citrus freshness. A racy number!
Emil Bauer und Söhne Sex, Drugs and Rock ‘n’ Roll dry Riesling 2014 Pfalz bauerwein.de Importer: Red Squirrel Wine RRP: £13.99 Fragrant nose with elegant notes of apple on the palate. Jolly wine.
Prinz Riesling Trocken 2013 Rheingau thewineryuk.com Importer: The Winery RRP: £13.99 Ripe and precise. Bursting with delicate fruit. Good balance of minerality.
Domdechant Werner Hochheim Classic Riesling 2013 Rheingau domdechantwerner.com Importer: Direct Wines RRP: £12.99 Russet apple on the nose. Luscious ripe stone fruit on the palate. Lots to enjoy.
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Rheingau weingut-hans-lang.de Importer: Virgin Wines RRP: £12.99 Good depth and savoury expression. A balanced Riesling with fine apple aromas and a complex finish.
Bamberger Plaisir Riesling Qba 2013 Nahe weingut-bamberger.de Importer: Lea & Sandeman RRP: £11.95 Defined aromatics with green apple notes. A delightful wine, nicely done!
White Rabbit Riesling 2014 Rhein berkmann.co.uk Importer: Berkmann Wine Cellars RRP: £10.49 A well-rounded wine, orange and lime blossom – the taste of spring. Crack it open!
Fritz Willi dry Riesling 2013 Mosel friedrichwilhelmgymnasium.de Importer: Boutinot RRP: £12.95 Soft ripe stone fruit on the nose. A fabulously elegant wine with good structure and precise fruit.
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GERMAN WINE TOP 50 Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier Riesling Kabinett 2013 Mosel
Ökonomierat Rebholz Dry Riesling Kastanienbusch Grosses Gewächs 2012
bischoeflicheweingueter.de
Pfalz
Importer: Boutinot RRP: £13.49 Hints of honey – nice luscious flavour.
oekonomierat-rebholz.de Importer: Astrum Wine Cellars RRP: £56.50 Lime skin and hints of spice on the nose. Fresh and vibrant fruit throughout. Bursting with character – very moreish.
Leitz KG Berg Sclossberg Riesling ‘Ehrenfels’ Trocken 2013
WHITE £15+
Ökonomierat Rebholz Weisser Burgunder Trocken 2014 Pfalz oekonomierat-rebholz.de Importer: Astrum Wine Cellars RRP: £15 Very elegant with a pretty nose. Bright, fresh and zingy, with good depth.
Rheingau leitz-wein.de Importer: ABS Wine Agencies RRP: £35 Dances on your palate, this decadent wine is fresh and fruity – yum!
Max Ferdinand Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2007 Mosel maxferdrichter.com Importer: Charles Taylor Wines RRP: £20 Gorgeous nose of limes and satsumas. Medium dry but balanced. Layers of lovely fruit.
Bischel Scharlachberg Riesling Trocken 2013 Rheinhessen weingut-bischel.de
RED
Importer: The Winery RRP: £26.99 Lovely jasmine perfume. Chunkier on the palate with notes of dried apples and crystallised citrus.
Fritz Ekkehard-Huff Rabenturm Riesling trocken 2013 Rheinhessen weingut-huff.de Importer: The Winery RRP: £30 A lovely balance and intensity. Summer flowers and lime blossom. Easy drinking.
18 | Germany Supplement
Peter & Peter Pinot Noir 2013 Pfalz zgm.de Importer: Zgm RRP: £10 Wild strawberries on the nose and ultra German in style.
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GERMAN WINE TOP 50 Becker-Landgraf Gau-Odernheimer Spätburgunder Trocken 2013
Schneider Spätburgunder Weiler Schlipf CS 2012
Rheinhessen
schneiderweingut.de
weingut-beckerlandgraf.de
Importer: SWIG RRP: £27.50 A sweet-natured gentle Pinot – nice core and fruit.
Importer: The Winery RRP: £16.99 Brambles on the nose with a hint of delicate oak. Fresh and lively, filled with berries.
Durbacher WG Pinot Noir 2012 Baden durbacher.de Importer: German Wine Agencies RRP: £18 Food-friendly wine balanced with spice and warmth.
Baden
Bernhard Huber Bienenberg Spätburgunder Grosses Gewächs 2012 Baden weingut-huber.com Importer: Justerini & Brooks RRP: £34.46 Embodies Germany. This is Spätburgunder! Rich, intense bursting with red berries.
Oliver Zeter Pinot Noir Reserve 2012 Pfalz
SWEET
oliver-zeter.de Importer: German Wine Agencies RRP: £25 Hints of Scottish raspberries a well-rounded wine; nice oak.
Studert-Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese 2006 Mosel studert-pruem.de The Winery RRP: £17.99 Tangy with hints of lime cordial. Lots of acidity and lovely sweetness. Long finish.
“
Pinot Noir is an area of growing interest within German wine and there were some good examples” Alex Hunt MW
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Germany Supplement | 19
GERMAN WINE TOP 50
SEEKING IMPORTERS RIESLING
Daniel Schmitt Riesling Bechtheimer 2013 Rheinessen wgt-schmitt.de info@wgt-schmitt.de Great value for money. Like biting into a juicy fresh apple.
Hensel Riesling Bad Dürkheim 2014 Pfalz henselwein.de thomas@henselwein.de Soft delicate nose with bright grapefruit hints on the palate.
Theo Minges Riesling Gleisweiler Hölle VDP Grosses Gewächs QbA Trocken 2012 Pfalz weingut-minges.com info@weingut-minges.com Bright and zesty with good intensity. Very refreshing.
Winzerfamilie Flick Westhofener Riesling Trocken 2013
Dr Corvers-Kauter Riesling Oestrich-Winkel 2013 Rheingau corvers-kauter.de info@corvers-kauter.de Wild flowers on the nose with stoney fruit on the palate, nice lasting finish.
Rheinessen weingut-flick.de alexander@weingut-flick.de Zippy spritz to begin with then mellows out and reveals layers of fruit with delicate savoury notes.
“
Spätburgunders are wines that I regularly fall in love with. It’s like coming home. The tasting showed that there is no better value than German wine” Anne Krebiehl MW
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GERMAN WINE TOP 50 Schumann-Nägler Riesling Reserve Halbtrocken 2014
G.A. Heinrich Spätburgunder Heilbronn 2012
Rheingau
Württemberg
schumann-naegler.de
weingut-heinrich.de
philipp@schumann-naegler.de Sprightly number with echoes of quince jelly and hints of citrus with some slate.
bjoern@weingut-heinrich.de A nice soft Pinot Noir with plenty of warm spice.
Vereinigte Hospitien Riesling Trier Wiltinger Hölle 2014 Mosel
Martin Wassmer Schlatter Maltesergarten Spätburgunder 2011
vereinigtehospitien.de
Baden
weingut@vereinigtehospitien.de Lightly fragrant wine with richer flavours – the citrus jumps out on the finish.
weingut-wassmer.de wassmer-krozingen@t-online.de Fresh, textured, some good length, lovely balance. This guy is doing something special.
OTHER, SEKT & WHITE
PINOT NOIR
Rothmeier Pinot Noir 2012
Schätzle Grauburgunder 2013
Pfalz
Baden
ben-rothmeier.de
weingutschaetzle.de
info@ben-rothmeier.de Deep perfume on the nose, great balance of fruit.
info@weingutschaetzle.de A very focused wine with a soft ripe mouthfeel.
Hanewald-Schwerdt Spätburgunder Kalkriff Bad Dürkheim 2012
Wilhelmshof Siebeldingen Grauburgunder 2013
Pfalz
wilhelmshof.de
hanewald-schwerdt.de
mail@wilhelmshof.de Elegant perfume with nice ripe fruit on the palate. Good concentration.
info@hanewald-schwerdt.de An elegant balanced wine with soft berries and some savoury notes.
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Pfalz
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GERMAN WINE TOP 50 Bergdolt-Reif & Nett Weissburgunder 2013
DIVINO Nordheim Thüngersheim eG Silvaner 2013
Pfalz
Franken
weingut-brn.de
divino-nordheim.de
info@weingut-brn.de Fragrant nose with delicate fresh palate, evolved in the glass and lasts on the palate.
rehling-droll@divino-nordheim.de Fresh on the nose; pleasant and fruity and very enjoyable.
Espenhof Weissburgunder Flonheim 2013
Oberhofer GbR Gewürztraminer Spätlese 2013
Rheinessen
Pfalz
espenhof.de
weingutoberhofer.de
weingut@espenhof.de Lovely balanced wine, very pretty and elegant. Fine apricot fragrance with hints of lemongrass and cedar. Great use of oak.
info@weingutoberhofer.de Soft and delicious – this is lovely. Controlled perfume and hints of Turkish delight.
Juliusspital Silvaner Würzburg Trocken 2014 Franken weingut-juliusspital.de weingut@juliusspital.de A brilliantly refreshing wine spritzy and focused.
OTHER NON-PINOT REDS
Terra X Frühburgunder Reserve 2012 Mosel txwf.de info@txwf.de An excellent example of Frühburgunder. Packed full of cherries and fresh spices.
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GERMAN WINE TOP 50
WINE REGIONS OF GERMANY DK Ostsee
Flensburg
Saßnitz
Nordsee Kiel Rostock Lübeck Bremerhaven Hamburg
Neubrandenburg
Bremen
Oldenburg
El
be
Uelzen
NL Hannover
Osnabrück W
es
Bielefeld
Potsdam
Braunschweig Magdeburg
er
Elbe
Göttingen
Cottbus
Kassel
e
SAALEUNSTRUT Halle
Dortmund
Bonn
Gera
Chemnitz e
b El
Gießen
Wiesbaden
M os
el
Mainz
Frankfurt
FRANKEN
Saarbrücken Metz
Bayreuth Plzen (Pilsen)
Heilbronn
WÜRTTEMBERG
Rh ein
Straßbourg (Straßburg)
Stuttgart
BADEN
Ingolstadt
r
cka
Ne
Ulm
Freiburg
Do
Mulhouse
Passau
Augsburg
na
u
Linz
Salzburg
Kempten Konstanz
CH
Do
München
u
na
Basel
Praha (Prag)
Main
Karlsruhe
F
CZ
Nürnberg
Mannheim
PFALZ
Hof
Main
RHEINHESSEN HESS. Würzburg NAHE BERGSTR. Ludwigshafen
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Dresden
Suhl
RHEINGAU
MOSEL Trier
Erfurt
Siegen
MITTELRHEIN
AHR
SACHSEN
Leipzig
Düsseldorf Köln
PL
al
Essen
L
er
Frankfurt
Sa
Rh ei n
B
Od
Berlin
Münster
Szczecin (Stettin)
Schwerin
Bregenz
Innsbruck
A
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