experience

EXPERIENCE

Pandemic service

A bartender shares the two-year struggle of hospitality.

BY PASHA SHIPP // PHOTO BY TERI GENOVESE

The pandemic was rough on restaurants, but it's been equally hard on the service industry workers. I f you’ve dined out during the COVID-19 pandemic, you’ve probably noticed many changes. Masked restaurant staff, adjusted seating capacities and limited menus are just a few of the differences over the last two years as restaurants work tirelessly to overcome unforeseen obstacles and stay in business.

And just like those businesses, countless people have had to adapt as things continue to change. Anna Barncord is one of those people. An Indiana transplant who moved to Grand Rapids in July 2019, Barncord has been working in the hospitality industry for much of her life.

She is one of those often “nameless and faceless” people in the service industry who are struggling just to survive while bearing the brunt of frustrated customers who expect everything to be the same as it was two years ago.

This is her story.

“I started serving way, way, way back in the day at a Steak ’n Shake, which was super fun. Then, I started bartending at a TGI Fridays. I moved on from there to a little local brewpub in Indiana, and went from there to an upscale, casual dining experience in Chicago, which was really fun — right on Michigan Avenue — where I bartended and served. Then I moved here, and I bartended at the AC Hotel for twoand-a-half years.

With COVID, there was a very long period of time where I just wasn’t able to work, which was scary. A couple of my friends who lived in Chicago and worked at that same restaurant that I used to work at, when everything shut down, they never heard from the restaurant ever again. They just never reopened. They never gave them a return-back date or reached out about their health insurance or benefits or anything. So, they just had to move on when things started reopening, which is really terrible.

The hotel was very good about communication, but we did open and close several times, and the whole process of dealing with unemployment was very new and very stressful. At first when everything was still pretty crazy, most guests were very compliant with wearing masks. They understood, especially because many of them travel and that was really risky. When things started to open up more, we kept our mask mandate at the hotel a lot longer than some other places did, and people were not thrilled about that.

I was talking at one point to this couple on one end of the bar about how our governor has been handling everything and how we’ve been closed down and how I personally was OK with it, and this other couple across the bar, they were like, ‘We’ll take our bill,’ and they paid, they tipped and they left. The next day, I got talked to by my manager because they left a review for the hotel saying, ‘We really don’t like the girl bartender spreading all of her political beliefs at the bar; we don’t like the way that their governor has been handling everything.’

I’m still a person with a personality and opinions, and if someone wants to talk to me about those opinions, I’m perfectly happy to talk to them. If you’re not involved in my conversation, then kindly stay out of it.

This other time, it was really early on during COVID, and there were hardly ever people at the bar. I had these girls that came in right before close, and we still had

the mask mandate for guests for when they were up and moving around, and I remember I was shutting things down and I had my mask on. They were just sitting at the bar, and they both got up to go to the bathroom, and they were having fun, and they didn’t put their masks on, and one of them was like, ‘Wait, wait, we need our masks,’ and then the other one looked around, and she was like, ‘But there’s no one in here.’ I just stood there, and I was looking at them and I was thinking, ‘I’m right here.’ Clearly, they didn’t think of me as a person at the bar, even though I was literally serving them drinks. I just was so dumbfounded by that. I remember telling that to one of my friends and just thinking, ‘There’s no one in here,’ OK, I’m no one. Got it. Right.

There’s always been this weird thing, sometimes, with men and female bartenders, but since COVID, I’ve had at least two or three men at my bar who have seen my ID photo on my lanyard and they’re like, ‘Oh, you look so great without the mask, will you pull it down so I can see your face?’ I had one guy who was like, ‘Pull it down and give me a smile; I want to see your smile,’ and I am at a loss for words. Usually I say, ‘Well, I can’t for safety’s sake,’ trying hard to just make it as straightforward as possible without sounding completely offended or grossed out.

Besides that, hearing people and understanding people — I’ve gotten really good at nonverbal communication, which is unfortunate, but it’s been harder with masks. So much of our profession is being that smiley, chipper person and getting your tips from that, and it’s hard when your face is covered. It also has been kind of refreshing because I don’t always have to be smiley and chipper. That stigma with service industry people is so standard, I think, and it’s been kind of nice not having to worry about it, not always having to have a smile plastered on my face and still being compensated.

It’s a very physically demanding job, and masks don’t make it any easier. Any bartending or serving job that you go into, they ask you if you’re physically capable of doing this job because there’s a lot to it. There would be nights when we’ve been busier and busier — and we’re still wearing masks — that I need to go in the back and switch mine because it’s covered in sweat. I can’t breathe because it’s soaked. It’s just been really tough physically.

It’s a challenge that I never expected to have, of course, and it’s especially weird when your bar is full of patrons that are unmasked, and they’re running around and they’re drunk and they have no sense of space, and you’re still wearing your mask for safety’s sake, but it feels like safety’s out the window when there’s that many other people that are unmasked. It’s an interesting time. Even with vaccines, I have my booster, I’m doing my best to keep people safe, and then when your restaurant or your bar says all your patrons don’t need to wear masks and we’re not going to check for vaccines, it just kind of feels like, ‘OK, well, what are you doing to keep me safe? I’m wearing the mask to keep them safe, but what about me?’

Being in the hospitality industry is tough because we were hurting for money because people weren’t traveling, so the hotel wasn’t doing great. It’s kind of hard to be in that position because you’re stuck between a rock and a hard place. Do you let people walk around without a mask, maybe endangering the lives of others? Or do you lose out on that little bit of revenue that you might be taking in? I felt like I couldn’t say anything; I didn’t want to get in trouble for making a guest angry, and that’s why it’s so hard because I just felt like I was stuck again between a rock and a hard place.

I think one really nice thing that COVID did was give people a little bit more appreciation for going out to eat because there was that huge chunk of time when we were all at home and no one was going out and no one was doing anything. Then finally, when restrictions lifted, it was like a burst of people, and it was like people wanted to go out all the time.

Even with some of the awful people that have come through, there’s been just as many, if not more, people who are sympathetic to the situation and who have tipped over the typical 20% and have been more generous because they understand that we were an industry that was hit really hard with this. It’s been nice in that sense.

As far as masks go, I think it’s something that’s going to stick around for a lot of places, at least for a little while longer. I just think it gives patrons and guests a little more peace of mind knowing that their chef wasn’t breathing all over their food.

I just hope that we can see how much more valued service industry people are and maybe start changing wages so that they’re not just living off of tips — taking into account the amount of time and effort that they’re putting into this job and their own safety and maybe being able to compensate them more for that because we were almost like an essential business for a while and we’re putting ourselves out there.”

When asked about what customers could do to help create a more positive dining experience for everyone, Barncord had this to say:

“No.1 on the list without any doubt is to be patient. There are so many things happening behind the scenes that customers never see, and many of these things have been affected by COVID. Your table may take longer to prepare because we have to take extra precautions to sanitize it. Your food may take longer to cook because we are super short-staffed because employees are sick. We may not have a lot of the products that you like because shipping and transportation has been so difficult. Each of these little things adds up and guests don’t understand how much these little things bother them until they start to happen. Trust me, as staff, we hate it just as much, if not more, than the customers. We want to be operating at full speed, but we have to ensure the safety of the guests. A little patience and understanding can go a long way.

No. 2 is to tip your servers and bartenders 20%. We all know that service industry workers live off of tips, and for many months over the last couple years, most of us were out of the job. It wasn’t easy. And now with restrictions keeping us to certain capacities, we aren’t able to build up the big numbers we saw pre-COVID. Many of us are making much less money than we were before this pandemic. I understand if you have a bad experience or things take too long or something is messed up with your food. Like I said earlier, as staff, we don’t want these things to happen either! It directly affects our paychecks. You may not agree with the system, but it’s not going to change anytime soon, so for now, please tip your staff, and they will be eternally grateful and excited to see you come back again.

COVID took out a lot of small businesses. The next thing I would ask customers to consider is trying out local spots rather than chain restaurants. Grand Rapids has so much to offer in the realm of food and beverage — unique spots that give the city its flavor.

Q: How have senior living options changed, and what are the benefits of joining an active community?

A: Some modern retirement and care communities in West Michigan offer a distinctly different lifestyle than the nursing homes of the past. Where prospective residents were once focused on levels of care and assistance, they’re now more interested in life enrichment.

As providers, the team at Beacon Hill knows how crucial it is to stay active and maintain social circles — and residents and families do, as well. That’s why they’ve shifted to more of a life community approach. While quality care is still extremely important, there are also great advantages to living in a vibrant, energetic community.

At Beacon Hill, residents are active, and there are a lot of stimulating pastimes and opportunities for relationship-building. Residents can choose to be as engaged or serene as they want to be, and as social or as private as they choose, although participation is encouraged. Fitness and wellness classes help residents improve and maintain their balance and mobility, while on- and off-site programs and a wide range of dining options keep life interesting and varied.

The bar has definitely been raised for what senior living communities need to offer to today’s seniors.

Amanda Daggett, RN

Director of Nursing Beacon Hill at Eastgate 1845 Boston St. SE Grand Rapids, MI 49506 616-245-9179 amanda.daggett@beaconhillgr.org beaconhillgr.org

Q: What makes Grand Rapids a great destination for meetings and conventions, and how can local community members be involved?

Q: What are some unique dining and drinking experiences for visitors to southwest Michigan?

A: Grand Rapids is an ideal location for meetings and conventions of varying sizes. Most groups find the city large enough to have all the amenities and facilities needed to successfully host their meetings, but they also find it’s the perfect size for their attendees to connect with one another and enjoy the community’s hospitality.

Here’s a fun fact: More than 70 percent of the national conventions hosted in Grand Rapids are influenced by a local community member. If you belong to an organization or association that holds regional or national meetings, you can help the Experience Grand Rapids team with outreach and by extending an invitation to your group. By doing so, you’ll boost the local economy, raise the profile of the city, and earn the gratitude of colleagues who will have a great time in Grand Rapids.

Mary Manier, CTP, CTIS, CTA

Vice President, Sales and Services 2500-2600 28th St. SE Grand Rapids, MI 49512 877-847-4847, ext. 3554 mmanier@ExperienceGR.com

A: “As a lifelong resident of southwest Michigan, and a local food and beverage enthusiast, I’m often asked to recommend places to eat,” says Millicent Huminsky, executive director of the Southwestern Michigan Tourist Council. “In the Benton Harbor Arts District, Houndstooth wows diners with their shared plates, while the nearby Mason Jar Café is a farm-to-table favorite.”

Huminsky also suggests checking out two places with great food and scenic views: St. Joseph’s Plank’s Tavern, and the Bistro on the Boulevard. In Buchanan, you can enjoy fresh air and food at River St. Joe, an organic farmstead and brewery not far from the Fernwood Botanical Garden, and Lehman’s Farmhouse, with locally sourced beverages and food. Outdoor enthusiasts might want to sip wines, beers, and spirits while hiking between Tabor Hill Winery & Restaurant and Round Barn Winery.

For those with children and pets, Huminsky says Silver Beach Pizza is a must for kids. Travelers with pets will find lots of welcoming places, but dogs especially love treats from FuzzyButz Pet Bakery.

Millicent Huminsky, Executive Director

Southwestern Michigan Tourist Council 2300 Pipestone Rd. Benton Harbor, MI 49022 269-925-6301 swmichigan.org

Q: I have the travel itch. Where can I go for a satisfying spring vacation?

A: Whether it’s a romantic getaway with your significant other, a girlfriends’ retreat, or even a pre-summer family vacation, there’s plenty to do in Ludington in the off season. Many accommodations are so cozy that no matter what the weather’s like outside, you’ll have a comfortable stay.

Cartier Mansion’s new Carriage House Suites are luxurious and inviting, with highend amenities to make you feel pampered. Just a short distance from Ludington is Barothy Lodge, a wilderness retreat with 15 private lodges set on an expansive property along the Pere Marquette River. It’s ideal for families and groups of friends, and most lodges have full kitchens, fireplaces, hot tubs, and more.

For a special night out, there’s the recently renovated STIX Restaurant & Bar, which boasts a new fine dining menu and state-of-the-art bowling lanes. This summer, guests will also be able to enjoy the beer garden. Crown and Cork offers casual yet trendy fare in a waterfront setting — it’s the only lakeshore restaurant in the city! For those who are anxious to leave winter behind and take in the fresh spring air, there’s always hiking and cycling at Ludington State Park. Visit pureludington.com to learn more.

Brandy Miller, Executive Director

Ludington Area Convention & Visitors Bureau 119 S. Rath Ave. Ludington, MI 49431 800-542-4600 pureludington.com

Q: What are my options for repurposing a piece of fine jewelry?

A: Whether it’s an heirloom you want to preserve, a sentimental piece that needs a style reboot, or a wedding ring you want to take on a new meaning, refurbishing or creating a custom piece is easier than you might think. “At Metal Art Studio, our inhouse jewelers can bring your piece back to life or give it a completely new life,” says Carol Wagen, the studio’s co-owner.

Replacing gems, resizing, and re-tipping are simple processes that can restore your jewelry to like-new condition, or it can be completely redesigned using some or all of the original components. White and yellow gold can often be recast, which can be especially important to those who have inherited jewelry from a loved one.

When it comes to a redesign, you don’t have to have the exact design in mind before you meet with a Metal Art Studio representative. “Our designers will create a style to suit your taste and personality,” Wagen says. “People come in not knowing what they want, and leave with exactly what they want.”

Carol Wagen, Co-Owner

Metal Art Studio Fine Jewelry 978 Cherry St. SE Grand Rapids, MI 49506 616-459-5075 Shop@metalartstudioinc.com metalartstudioinc.com

Q: With car shortages a reality, can buyers even get a vehicle right now?

A: The global chip shortage has affected a number of businesses, especially the automotive industry. Finding a new vehicle is certainly a challenge, but not impossible, and Pfeiffer Lincoln has a select few on their lot.

Pfeiffer Lincoln recommends that if you’re in the market for a new Lincoln in the next few months, you should submit an order for your customized Lincoln. You can choose from a number of options to customize your Lincoln to your specifications.

Pfeiffer understands that some customers aren’t able to wait, which is why they offer the option to purchase a Certified Pre-Owned Lincoln. These vehicles go through a 200-point inspection and come with a warranty at the time of purchase. If they still don’t have what you’re looking for on their lot, they have access to many auctions to help you find what you’re looking for.

Visit Pfeiffer Lincoln today and let them use their expertise to help you find your vehicle.

Steve Kelly, New Car Manager

Pfeiffer Lincoln 2424 28th St. SE Grand Rapids, MI 49512 616-949-7800 pfeifferlincolnofgrandrapids.com

Q: How do I know if engaging the services of a personal injury lawyer is right for me?

A: If you’re injured, it’s important to contact an experienced attorney who specializes in injury cases. Personal injury cases can be very complicated, and insurance adjusters are trained to take advantage of unrepresented victims. An experienced attorney will know how to present the true value of the case to the adjuster, which will force the adjuster to realistically value your case.

As a personal injury attorney, Stephen L. Grimm has aggressively defended the rights of injured victims in West Michigan for more than 36 years. He specializes in medical malpractice, legal malpractice, auto and motorcycle accidents, brain and closed head injuries, and serious personal injuries. He has helped individuals and families throughout the region recover millions in cases involving the negligence of physicians, hospitals, legal professionals, and careless drivers, and he has a proven record of providing exceptional legal counsel and representation.

Grimm has earned Martindale-Hubbell’s AV Preeminent Peer Review Rating — a distinguished designation held by only about 10 percent of all attorneys — and he has been voted by his peers as a Top Lawyer in Grand Rapids Magazine for many years. If you’ve been suffering without recourse, call today to schedule a consultation.

Stephen L. Grimm, P.C.

Attorney at Law 5020 E. Beltline NE, Suite 201F Grand Rapids, MI 49525 1-616-459-0220 slgrimmpc.com

Q: With home values rising, what are some practical uses for my home’s equity?

A: There are many options for borrowers who are curious about using home equity funds. Most people think about remodeling because the credit line is tied to their home. The nice thing is, you can use it for anything. Some people use the funds for sending their kids to college, as the rate is typically much lower than a traditional student loan. You could even consolidate debt and save much more than your average credit card rate. You can always use the money for traditional home projects, too; a new kitchen or a down payment on a new pool are common uses.

Once you have a line, you can use the funds as you see fit — and borrow when you need them. HELOCs work similarly to a credit card, in that you can borrow and pay back while you have the line. You also have the convenience of interest-only payments in the beginning, if you choose, and you can pay a lump sum at any time without fees. HELOCs can be a really convenient and reasonably priced way to tap into your real estate asset!

Visit Lake Michigan Credit Union at lmcu.org today to learn more.

Alicia Force

Vice President of Consumer Lending Lake Michigan Credit Union NMLS: 442967 5540 Glenwood Hills Parkway SE Grand Rapids, MI 49512 616-242-9790 lmcu.org

BY PAT EVANS

Left: Variety of cocktails from Bistro Bella Vita.

Opposite page: Linear's dish, Beets Three Ways, includes pickled golden beets, shaved candy striped beets, red beet goat cheese purée, serrano oil, baguette, smoked walnuts

These hotspots are not to be missed when dining out in the city.

PHOTOS BY STACY FEYER-SALO AND HANNAH RUSHTON

THRIVE

In the 2021 Best Restaurants issue, Grand Rapids Magazine did not name a top restaurant, nor did we adhere to the normal practice of really naming the best restaurants in the city.

With the situation that was the COVID-19 pandemic and the restrictions put on restaurants throughout 2020, the decision was more than understandable. That is not to say there were not incredibly well-deserving establishments on the list.

Places like Quarantino’s opened and impressed with a familiar style of pizza. The Mitten Brewing Co. helped lead a charge in worker welfare while firing out its delectable pizzas and beer, both among the favorites of Grand Rapids Magazine readers.

Others, like Mertens Prime, Luna and Amore Trattoria Italian, were able to maintain the quality they established before the pandemic but kept things new and exciting while adapting to the constantly changing times.

People’s dining habits shifted during the height of the pandemic when more often than not the kitchen table did double duty as a dining room and takeout became the new norm.

Thankfully, lifted restrictions in early 2021 once again transformed the dining experience and more people became comfortable with venturing out.

So, the abbreviated list was the right thing to do last year. Unfortunately, the pandemic didn’t altogether disappear in 2021 and continued to claim much-loved establishments like Osteria Rossa and favorite taco spot Taqueria San Jose.

For 2022, Grand Rapids Magazine’s Best Restaurants will follow a similar approach, while returning a bit to the roots of what the issue did prepandemic: set the standard for fine dining in the city. We’ll also center on dining within the Grand Rapids borders.

This list does not have a Restaurant of the Year. A big part of that is the industry still struggles day-to-day with the intense pressures of a pandemic, including a mindboggling labor shortage. That easily can impact food quality on a plate and, certainly, service.

On any given night, a restaurant can excel, while the next night it struggles. It’s hard to claim this is a definitive list because life for everyone the past two years has been a rollercoaster.

What we can say is you won’t be disappointed when visiting these eateries.

It’s quite possible the Best Restaurants list will look a lot different in 2023, just as this year’s looks different from 2021. But that’s an exercise for next year.

For now, here are five restaurants that are pushing the standard of Grand Rapids dining to new heights.

Following that is a list of five restaurants that create incredible food with regularity but, for whatever reason, might be a bit overlooked.

Food scenes evolve quickly, and some restaurants in the next pages have been able to stick around and pass the test of time. Others are new and are helping push the limits with Grand Rapids diners. Together, they make a vibrant dining experience worthy of a growing city.

Anyway, on to the tasty food.

*Considerations did not include national chains and brands, like Ruth’s Chris Steak House and the Kitchen by Wolfgang Puck, many of which are wonderful restaurants.

PHOTOS BY STACY FEYER-SALO

THE SOVENGARD

Walleye, Chicken Liver Paté, Rissoli, Duck Breast all from Sovengard (left). Sovengard interior (opposite page). Right before my berry eyes cocktail (below). n March 2020, Grand Rapids Magazine named The Sovengard its Restaurant of the Year. Essentially two weeks later, the world shut down and the restaurant lost whatever benefits topping a list like this brings.

Well, The Sovengard did manage to keep its doors open through twists and turns of lockdowns. With its Scandinavian influence, the menu can hold some surprises for diners and introduce them to new concepts. But admittedly, that has waned some since the restaurant first opened in 2016. The menu is a bit less esoteric, allowing an easier entry for most Midwestern diners.

From an impeccably cooked duck breast to a flaky soft walleye and a creamy winter squash pasta, the main courses can compete with top restaurants in much bigger food scenes.

Likewise, the beverage program at The Sovengard is among the very best in West Michigan. From the cocktails to the beer and wine lists, nearly everything on the beverage menu is thoughtfully curated to help accentuate a wonderful dinner or simply a conversation over drinks.

One thing to watch in the next year will be how the atmosphere changes. The Sovengard is currently in the midst of moving to a new location, much further west down Bridge Street than its current location.

Its original basement location helped set the mood for what The Sovengard is. The raw brick walls and modern design accents encouraged diners to enjoy whatever season was outside, which makes sense with the ever-changing menu. The giant beer garden also was a staple on the West Side and helped make that location so special.

The outstanding food will continue at the new location, but we hope the calming atmosphere will follow as well. (Editor’s Note: At the time of writing, The Sovengard was still operating at its original 443 Bridge St. NW location. The restaurant is moving to a new location, 1213 Bridge St. NW, sometime this year.)

Margaux interior (top) with Tomahawk DePorc (left). Blanc et Salade de Betteraves (opposite page) with variety of cocktails from Margaux

PHOTOS BY STACY FEYER-SALO

MARGAUX

imilar to The Sovengard, Margaux at the JW Marriott garnered a hearty endorsement from Grand Rapids Magazine in March 2020, earning the title of Best New Restaurant. Opened in October 2019, the French-themed restaurant had just a few months to enjoy normal operating circumstances before the COVID-19 tumult.

Thankfully, Margaux has resumed its role as a replacement for Six.One. Six, the previous restaurant in the space at one of the premier hotels in Grand Rapids. In summer 2021, the restaurant also welcomed two important staff members: General Manager Caitlin Hoop and Chef de Cuisine Tyler VanAntwerpen. Hoop returned to Grand Rapids in summer 2020 after spending several years in New York City, working at Union Square Hospitality Group, the famed restaurant group of Danny Meyer. VanAntwerpen, meanwhile, spent time at restaurants in Chicago. Both bring an obvious big-city dining feel to a marquee establishment in the city.

After traversing the first six months of their time at Margaux, they now look forward to excelling further in 2022.

“We’re both very excited now that we both have our legs underneath us,” Hoop said. “Our goal for 2022, and where we hope to take it, is making it more of a Grand Rapids establishment. We are fortunate to be in a hotel and always have those guests, but we want to make it more of a community-driven restaurant.”

The community would do well to embrace the restaurant. French cuisine is one of the cornerstone styles of fine dining, and each time Grand Rapids Magazine visited the meals were on point.

Whether it’s the delicate rainbow trout filets in a puddle of brown butter served on neatly fried potatoes or the wild boar ragout that was perhaps the best pasta dish we experienced, VanAntwerpen and his staff hit the mark every time.

A key to French cooking, like most, is avoiding heavyhandedness. With that restraint, the dishes are light yet flavorful while addressing all levels of hunger.

The staff also is knowledgeable, efficient and quick to recommend a perfect pairing while easily explaining why it’s the right choice.

PHOTOS BY STACY FEYER-SALO

MDRD

MDRD interior (opposite page) with Sherry Cobbler and Espresso Martini (left) and Paella Mixta (right). f Margaux has one of the marquee locations in town, then MDRD has the marquee location in Grand Rapids. Both have little room for error in terms of operations because they are keystone restaurants at the two premier hotels in Grand Rapids. Visitors looking to dine in Grand Rapids while staying at those hotels will first look at those restaurants.

The good news for MDRD is that location gives it a magnificent boost from the get-go. On the 27th floor of the Amway Grand Plaza tower, the view and design provide bonus points for any diner. With an incredible view of West Michigan, the first part of dinner often leaves visitors in awe.

As the view becomes normalized, however, a relaxed and informed service style guides a diner through the menu without even glancing down. While visitors are seated several hundred feet above Grand Rapids, the pace of service certainly helps set the tone for a languid, traditional Spanish dinner, even if there is a snowstorm swirling outside.

The dishes themselves are upgraded simplicity. The Ensalada de Pepino, for example, offers spirals of cucumbers, topped with dollops of creamy coconut cheese on a bed of salsa verde surrounded by sweet peppers. Simple, yet delicious.

The tapas are small, shareable plates, as they should be, and are fantastic. Try combining the Gambas Al Ajillo and Patatas Bravas, which allow the slightly spicy shrimp to be balanced by the crispy potato cubes.

The main dishes can be tricky and will depend on the diner’s preferences. The pan-seared scallops were perfect, but the whole rainbow trout is stuffed with olive tapenade — great if you love olives, but not so great if you expect a true representation of a fragile, buttery trout.

On the drinks side, the cocktails are inventive and sizable, and the wine list is well curated with an appropriate slant to Spanish varieties.

PHOTOS BY STACY FEYER-SALO

LINEAR

Linear interior (top and bottom). Roasted porkbelly and grilled swordfish (opposite page). ff the beaten path and essentially on the border of downtown Grand Rapids, Linear was a stellar addition to the Grand Rapids dining scene when it opened in 2018. The sleek, modern dining room is a great way to set the tone, which owner Todd Hoort said is not trying to be pretentious but rather straddle the lines of fancy and comfort food. No dinner jackets required.

The menu is meant to be shared. The plates are not small by any means, but they’re not overflowing, either. It’s best to go into a dinner at Linear by ordering enough plates to adequately share with another diner or three.

The starters are inventive, including plates like “Beets Three Ways,” highlighting the versatility of an oft-overlooked root vegetable, while toasted raviolis hit a more familiar note.

The main dishes have a nice array of vegetarian options, like wild mushroom manicotti and the grilled cauliflower and couscous plate. There’s also plenty of options for fish lovers, including a grilled swordfish that delivers a mild but meaty punch.

Then there are the meat options, like the wagyu flank steak, which pairs incredibly with the pungent blue cheese sporadically parsed onto the plate — light enough for those who normally shy away from a stinky cheese.

Finish it off with a delightful S’mores Trifle.

Linear also has an incredible weekend brunch menu if a dinner date isn’t in the wheelhouse.

BY PAT EVANS FIVE MORE THAT SOAR

There are valid reasons to include these stops on your dining tour.

San Chez Bistro

It’s almost like stepping onto a set from the sitcom “Friends” and the charm that emanates from sitting in essentially the same dining room as when it opened in 1992 really helps elevate a meal.

As a tapas restaurant, it’s best to take a trip throughout the menu and order in excess for the table, then pass them around.

Leo’s

Another staple to the upscale dining scene in Grand Rapids, Leo’s was essentially alone in its extensive seafood menu in the downtown area.

That status finally is changing, thanks to the opening of places like Beacon Corner Bar and soon-to-be-open Real Seafood Company. Whether that changes how a place like Leo’s operates is yet to be seen, but for now it’s the cream of that crop and is a must-try experience on the seafood side.

The Chop House

Cooking a steak often is viewed as a simple task, but to do it well is a science. And The Chop House presents a pretty-darn-close-toperfect steak. Those grill skills also translate well to other items like succulent pan-seared scallops and juicy rib lamb chops.

The atmosphere also might be the most traditionally “fancy date night” vibe of any GR restaurant.

Reserve

A previous Restaurant of the Year award winner, Reserve helped set the stage for new wine expectations in Grand Rapids when it opened in 2010. Not a massive menu by any means, a great route here is leaning on the wine and exploring the extensive meat and cheese menu.

MeXo

MeXo takes Mexican cuisine, both modern and more traditional, and pulls together a menu unique to Grand Rapids and certainly outside what most Grand Rapidians know about Mexican food. The dishes also offer gorgeous colors to stimulate more than just the tastebuds.

PHOTOS BY STACY FEYER-SALO

BISTRO BELLA VITA

Bistro Bella Vita interior and bar area (opposite page). Parisian gnocchi (top left) with tuna crudo (right). staple in the Grand Rapids dining scene since the 1990s, it would be easy for Bistro Bella Vita to rest on its laurels and let its name and history carry the menu.

Instead, the restaurant continues to kick out new menu items to help keep pushing the Grand Rapids dining scene forward.

Sure, there are staples that have been on the menu for years, like the creamy pesto Rotini con Pollo or the juicy rotisserie chicken and mashed potato and veggie Poulet de Provence. The pizzas, too, are generally can’t-miss options, particularly the Rustica.

House-made pasta helps set the stage for the pasta dishes, including the rigatoni bolognese, which quite possibly could be the best restaurant bolognese in the area.

On the beverage side, since opening with a massive martini menu — which it still carries the legacy of — Bistro has generally kept pace with cocktail trends, including a recent push on Negronis. More impressively though, General Manager Tristan Walczewski recently earned his level 3 sommelier, helping diners match their meals with wines from an extensive cellar list.

After the meal, while there’s plenty to choose from by way of after-dinner drinks, one would be hard-pressed to find a better capper than an espresso along with the butterscotch budino.

That’s why Bistro Bella Vita has been in Grand Rapids Magazine’s Best Restaurants issue each year for more than a decade. Of note: Essence Restaurant Group reopened Grove in February, resurrecting the restaurant that won Restaurant of the Year for five consecutive years after opening in 2011. (Editor’s Note: The author’s sister is a partner at Essence Restaurant Group.)

Italian hoagie from Schnitz Deli (above) and interior (below).

BY PAT EVANS PHOTOS BY HANNAH RUSHTON

EVERYDAY GEMS

When you crave comfort food, these are some tasty recommendations.

Grand Rapids is full of incredible restaurants of all types, far too many to list in the pages of Grand Rapids Magazine. Beyond the fancier restaurants within the Grand Rapids borders, there are a lot of great date-night spots in the greater Grand Rapids area and places to enjoy incredible morsels for everyday occasions. Half fried chicken with two sides (mashed yukons and pimento mac and cheese) at Hancock.

Schnitz Deli

Sandwiches are a dime a dozen, but few in Grand Rapids put together a fresh deli sandwich like Schnitz. The deli has topped the Grand Rapids Magazine Best Of Readers Poll as best deli for years and that’s because the sandwiches are topnotch. So are the soups.

Hancock

Fried chicken isn’t exactly a hard sell, but hot chicken was the belle of the ball a few years ago and fried chicken sandwiches took the world by storm in 2020. Hancock hits both on the head and out of the ballpark, to mix some metaphors.

Wei Wei Palace

For a traditional Chinese dim sum experience, head out to South Division Avenue near 43rd Street. While Wei Wei Palace also serves up more Americanized Chinese dishes, diners should experience the wonderful flavors of the real deal, at least

Cantonese style.

Chez Olga

Like properly spicy food? Chez Olga is among the best bets for that in Grand Rapids. The Caribbean-themed restaurant allows diners to take a trip all over the region, with plenty of options.

Mikado Sushi

Grand Rapids’ best sushi spot very likely can be found in a strip mall, which is where longtime staple Mikado opened in 1995. The fish is fresh and the menu carries an incredible value for quality sushi in Grand Rapids. Pasta Chez Olga (top) and Chez Olga interior (below).

Chicken sandwich with sweet potato fries, Calistoga Cobb, Noco Nachos all from Noco (top)

40 Acres Soul Kitchen

A true representation of Southern comfort food is hard to come by in mainstream Grand Rapids restaurants, but not at Forty Acres Soul Kitchen, where the food will put meat on your ribs and a smile on your face.

Noco Provisions

There are a lot of places that claim a really tasty hamburger. There’s plenty of different styles of hamburgers as well, so while it may be a matter of preference, Noco Provisions offers a savory and mouthwatering burger a diner probably won’t soon forget.

Aperitivo

One of the original Downtown Market vendors, Aperitivo has expanded its footprint in the downtown attraction. That’s good news for lovers of a casual meal of meat, cheese, bread and accouterments. It can be a true culinary adventure when matching with the appropriate beverages.

Roam by San Chez Bistro

This cozy restaurant on Monroe Avenue offers the ability to literally roam the globe searching for a cuisine that will hit the spot. Roam’s menu ranges from full plates to sandwiches and appetizers, taking cues from destinations ranging from South Korea to Germany to the good ol’ USA. Dakgangjeong (below) with interior of ROAM (left).

food+drink

DIVE INTO THE CITY’S GREATEST EATERIES AND BARS

Cacio e pepe is a quick and easy recipe that can impress, even when the fridge is empty.

CREATE

Pantry magic

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» PLUS: BREAKFASTS TO TRY

A PIECE OF MARKY MARK IN GR

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