Backyard of the Bourgeoisie

The Silk Stocking District takes visitors on a journey through the past.

100   , Galveston’s more affluent families strolled these palm tree- and oak-lined streets, strutting in full skirts, tapping ebony canes and swishing in their silk stockings. More than 100 years later, those silk-stocking-clad residents are long gone, leaving only memories—and in a few cases, ghosts—behind, but their homes still make the average person gawk in admiration.

One Queen Anne-style home’s white and mustard-yellow paint makes it look like a Victorian sunspot. Nicknamed “The Great Painted Lady,” little red accents and painted quiltlike designs on the facade make the house and its wrapped porch seem like a set out of a movie, while another two-story periwinkle blue residence nearby is topped by a round porch.

The homes hark back to jolly old Victorian England or the Spanish moss-lined streets of Savannah, Georgia, but the blindingly blue sky and distant crashing waves of the Gulf of Mexico give away the illusion. Instead, these more than 200 homes make up one of the prettiest and most unique streets in downtown Galveston.

The Victorian-style homes are two of many tucked along the 14 blocks of the Silk Stocking District in Galveston, which was listed in the Register of Historic Places in May 1996. The colorful Italianate and Victorian manors, charming little cottages and Queen Anne houses are part of a neighborhood that acts as a model for preserving and protecting historic heritage. Several homes within the district also have National Register status.

Nicknamed the Silk Stocking District (referring to the wealth of the families who lived there), the neighborhood was created in the late 1800s along Rosenberg Street. The district, filled with business moguls and early industrialists who “could afford to buy silk stockings,” spanned from Broadway to Seawall Boulevard and from 23rd Street to 26th Street.

But what was an affluent neighborhood in Galveston didn’t start out that way.

Pulling Up The Stockings

Originally, the land was the site of the Texas Cotton Press, but after the Texas Legislature passed a law in the 1890s that stated cotton presses had to be in rural areas where the cotton was grown, the Texas press went bankrupt.

The old press was moved and demolished, and the land divided into lots to be sold at auction. Today, the neighborhood is one of the most intact residential areas in the city dating from the 19th and early 20th century. It continues to charm and attract fans of architecture, history and even ghosts.

“All these lots were subdivided, and all these homes were built around 1898-99. The land was almost all filled in [with homes] when the 1900 hurricane hit,” says David Bowers, real estate broker with Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate Gary Greene. “Galveston was a pure investment-driven type of residential scene at the time. You had your big people who had their mansions, but then 70% of all the other housing was built as rent houses. There was a tremendous flow of people coming through the city making money or moving on, but many of these houses were nice enough to become singlefamily homes.”

Many of the historic homes were spared destruction when the devastating 1900 hurricane demolished Galveston Island. The subsequent grade raising that built up the seawall also didn’t affect the neighborhood, and today, many of the houses retain their historic feel.

From modest to massive, the Silk Stocking homes range in price from $150,000 to over $750,000.

Ghost Tours With Personality

The Silk Stocking District of today still has its own raucous personality. The Galveston Mardi Gras Parade—one of the largest in the nation—dances straight through the main thoroughfare, and every night, ghost hunters line up for tours to hear the ancient and sad tales of the original residents who do not seem to want to leave.

“We had so many ghost tours coming through that it was a problem; people had hundreds of flashlights shining through their windows, so we had to put a stop to that,” Bowers says. Even before the push to save and restore old buildings in Galveston reached its peak in the 1990s, residents of the Silk Stocking District knew these old homes were special. The Silk Stocking local historic district was created in 1975, with 25th Street, or Rosenberg, as the core thoroughfare, and renovations are constantly in motion to keep the bones of the old beauties strong.

A self-guided walking tour brochure is available from the Silk Stocking National Historic District office, and no matter what time of day or year, the District remains one of the country’s most unique—and beautiful—neighborhoods to wander.

Check out these other notable homes

Bowers himself owns an 1899 Queen Anne in the District, a beauty with 12-foot-high ceilings and 42 windows, a second-story balcony porch and large foyer. While working as an attorney for a title insurance company in Houston, Bowers discovered the gem-inthe-rough in 1984.

“I was looking for old homes and went to Galveston,” he recalls. “I found a ‘for sale by owner’ and bought it that night. At the time, there was much blight in historic Galveston with very little renovation, so my house needed to be completely redone.”

When the house next door became available, Bowers purchased it, too. The Waters and Sarah Davis home, a charming intersection of Italianate and Queen Anne styles, was built as a residence in 1868. The Davis home, like so many others in the Silk Stocking District, has its own story. Waters Davis, who was the president of the Galveston Wharf Company and a railroad tycoon, founded the Galveston Chapter of the Red Cross, so it was only fitting that when the family sold the house in 1957, they sold it to the charitable organization they helped establish.

Many of the houses have names. The Hickenlooper House, with its recognizable double-tier entry portico and eccentric blend of ornamentation, was the original home of Lucy Hickenlooper, who achieved international renown as a concert pianist. Although her home still bears her name, she decided that Hickenlooper wasn’t the most elegant name for a concert pianist. Instead, she changed her name to “Madame Olga Samaroff Stokowski” after winning a scholarship to the Paris Conservatoire de Musique.

On the southerly end of the District is a gigantic 22,000-squarefoot stucco structure called the Letetia Rosenberg Home for Aged Women. When local philanthropist Henry Rosenberg died in 1882, he left numerous gifts to the Island, including the home for aged women named after his first wife.

“When the 1900 storm hit, that big building saved our neighborhood,” Bowers says. “As the storm hit that structure, it was so big that it started a debris line. All that debris built up and made a dam, so to speak, to keep from letting in other debris and floodwaters. It’s amazing how the Silk Stocking District was basically saved by this monolithic structure at the south end.”

Ashton Villa, a fully restored historic home on the corner of 24th and Broadway, was built in 1859 as the first and largest brick structure in Texas. After the 1900 hurricane, when the Island was raised, the family could not afford to have the massive brick mansion lifted, so the dirt was put around the house. Today, instead of 14 steps up to the front porch, there’s only three. Of the 14-foot fence, only four remain above ground.

“Every home has its history and its stories,” Bowers says. “It’s also just a beautiful neighborhood to explore.”

Galveston’s “pier culture” is unlike anywhere in America, a series of designated wharves where families can watch for dolphins, couples can enjoy a romantic Gulf-side dinner, and visitors and locals alike can fish, fish and fish some more. Add in daily fishing boat excursions and it’s easy to see why Galveston’s coast is considered among the best destinations in North America for pro, novice and experienced fishermen and women.

“I come from North Carolina and I can tell you the fishing here is insane,” says Edwin Galarza of the Galveston Fishing Pier. “I’ve seen 10-foot tiger sharks and red drum runs when people are pulling out fish after fish. This is also one of the best flounder fishing spots anywhere in the world.”

Recently restored, the 50-year-old Galveston Fishing Pier is the longest privately owned pier between Texas and Maine. A 30-pound smooth puffer, the largest ever caught anywhere, and a 220-pound tarpon—a Texas record—were caught from the Pier.

In addition to prize sport fishing, the Galveston Fishing Pier functions as an important education center. The innovative “Teach a Kid to Fish” program features a variety of lessons for second to fourth graders. This is considered a key age for children not only to develop the proper fishing skills but also to learn about the Gulf of Mexico’s fragile ecology and its inhabitants.

The Teach a Kid to Fish program, which comprises of “Intro to the Gulf,” “Ethical Angler Intro” and “Pier Fishing,” provides second through fourth graders with casting lessons, fish ID skills and, for third and fourth graders, lunch at Jimmy’s on the Pier. The program is perfect for parents who love to fish and want to introduce their children to a lifetime passion.

“Lots of families come annually and everyone loves it,” says Galarza, who has worked at the pier for several years. “We provide a safe environment for the often hundreds of people who visit us every day and, as importantly, for the fish by providing paper instead of plastic bags and encouraging environmentally friendly fishing practices from the beginning of a young angler’s career.”

Visiting the Galveston Fishing Pier, which is open 7 a.m. to 11 p.m depending on weather conditions, is often a whole day or evening affair. The day may begin with Dirty Pier Chai or Colombian Supremo at The Seabean, Galveston’s only seaside espresso stand. Lunch and dinner diners head to Jimmy’s on the Pier, the classic waterfront seafood restaurant that serves custom cocktails and fresh Gulf seafood with a twist (think bacon-wrapped shrimp and a tuna tartare tostada, as well as favorites like classic fried oysters and shrimp).

Two miles away, the 61st Street Fishing Pier also offers an exceptional vantage point from which to cast about for the day or evening. Another 24-hour fishing pier (open from March to December), with reduced entrance fees through the night, and the tackle shop rents gear and sells bait for angling success as well as souvenirs. The two-story observation deck offers excellent coastal views in addition to an assortment of snacks. The new upstairs bar features sodas, beer and margaritas, among other coastal cocktails.

“Fishing here is generally a really good time,” says owner Austin Kimbrough. “People catch a lot of sand trout and small sharks in the summer, which is always a thrill. We also see a lot of red drums. They tend to be 40-to-50-inch fish that weigh upwards of 20 pounds. There’s a lot of excitement on the dock when someone catches one.”

Like other piers, 61st Street Fishing Pier staff received a Texas Parks and Wildlife Angler Education Program Certificate. This prepares them to aid novice fishing enthusiasts as well as encourage proper fishing techniques for all experience levels.

“I began fishing before I could walk,” Kimbrough says. “And I never get tired of seeing people, especially children who’ve never held a fishing pole in their life before, screaming and hollering when they catch their first fish. I like that we help make memories that a child will never forget.”

In addition to privately owned piers, the Galveston jetties stretch 6.5 miles, a world record. They provide ideal granite platforms as wide as 7 feet for safe fishing along the beachfront. Many Galvestonians and visitors recall making their very first cast on a family excursion to the North and South jetties.

Seawolf Park also offers public fishing on its pier in addition to many diverse recreational options for visitors. Located on Pelican Island, land that was once the site of the secondbusiest immigration station in the United States, Seawolf Park is today home to the Galveston Naval Museum, the USS Cavalla, a WWII submarine, and the USS Stewart, a rare escort destroyer (see story on page 38).

“We have a lot of families and groups who come to Seawolf Park,” says Galveston Beach Parks General Manager Vince Lorefice. “Two or three group members will buy a fishing wristband, others will barbecue, and the kids will hang out at the playground and play basketball, soccer and other sports. It’s a great location to do a lot of different things.”

Like the private piers, Seawolf Park teems with fishing enthusiasts throughout the year. Park attendants sold more than 79,000 fishing passes in 2021 alone.

“Seawolf is a very popular, multicultural park as well as Galveston’s premier fishing location,” Lorefice says. “People may come to fish, but they also love seeing the variety of ships—from ferries to giant container ships—come through adjacent channel. Because we’re open 24 hours from March through mid-December, you can also come and fish in relative solitude.”

The same can be said aboard Galveston Party Boats (GPB), a Pier 19 institution since 1961. The GPB fleet embarks to premier fishing grounds each morning based on veteran fishing knowledge and real-time data. Red snapper is usually the first target of the day, an exciting catch given the species’ renowned fighting spirit. Novice and experienced sport fishermen and women may also encounter ling, dorado (mahi-mahi) and shark, among other challenging fish to reel in.

“Our most popular trip is the 12-hour fishing trip that runs from 7:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.,” says Liz Rogers, who represents Galveston Party Boats. “The fishing offshore is pretty fast-paced. After we get started we try not to make too many fishing spot moves, but we also want to ensure our customers are catching—or at least losing their bait!—on every down hook.”

It’s About More Than the Fish

The Importance of Recycling Fishing Line

There’s a reason why fishing line is strong enough to raise fish weighing 50 pounds or more out of the Gulf of Mexico. The clear monofilament line—a single fiber of plastic that is very hard to see—does not break down in salt water or elsewhere. Relatively cheap to produce and purchase, discarded fishing line is responsible for more than 100,000 marine mammal deaths annually, according to the BoatUS Foundation. The line can also hurt other sea life, kill birds and destroy boating equipment. The high-density plastic, which is not biodegradable, requires a special recycling process.

The Galveston fishing community encourages its members, clients and other visitors to do their part and use special recycling receptacles at various marine stores and vendors. Galveston also schedules regular recycling efforts throughout the year. Please look for specific recycling bins or ask your crew how to recycle your discarded fishing line.

Of course, a voyage in the Gulf of Mexico can yield much more than a great catch, says Rogers. “We can sometimes see really unique species like whale sharks, pilot whales, turtles and so many dolphins. I think our most unique sighting in the last two years would have to be the pod of killer whales [orcas] sighted down south of Galveston. They followed our boat for a long time.”

Wildlife and bird viewing offers a break for friends and family members who may not choose to fish for the entire voyage, which can range from a four-hour Bay and Jetty outing to a 30-hour tuna excursion. True to its name, Galveston Party Boats also offers private charters of every stripe, from corporate outings to bachelor, bachelorette and large group parties.

Captain Shane Cantrell of Galveston Sea Ventures agrees that a variety of experiences makes for the best trips. Like so many sportfishing captains, Cantrell spent his youth, especially his college years, fishing off the various piers. Today, he spends most of his time guiding experienced and novice fishermen and women.

“For our typical fishing charter in Galveston,” he says, “you can expect the captain to provide all the rods and reels, tackle and bait, with fuel and fish cleaning also included for the trip.”

Like GPB, Galveston Sea Ventures offers non-fishing excursions, specifically sunset cruises, dolphin and birding tours.

“A Galveston fishing trip is about having a good time on the water and enjoying time with family and friends,” Cantrell says. “You’ll also learn about fishing and have a professional to assist you along the way to increase your chances of a successful day catching fish.”

Cantrell still loves to fish off the Galveston piers and jetties in his spare time. Likewise, Rogers loves the fishing vibe around the piers and parks.

“Fishing is a legacy industry and activity in Galveston that has developed into its own culture and look,” she says, citing casual clothing styles that have grown out of it.

The fishing community is famously interdependent. It is among the most inclusive recreational activities on the planet, with avid participants from every ethnicity and economic and social class.

“Everybody’s friendly here,” says Andrew Quintana, manager of Aunt Margie’s Bait & Seafood, the locals’ go-to for over a quarter century. “It’s an excellent vibe.”

Whether catching your first speckled trout at 5 years old off the pier (to the delight of Austin Kimbrough) or wrestling successfully with a 25-pound red snapper out in the Gulf or spending a quiet night fishing for flounder from Seawolf Park, there's a perfect spot waiting for you to cast away.

Writer and photographer Crai S. Bower contributes articles and images to dozens of publications including Conde Nast Traveler, Garden & Gun and AARP, where he writes the monthly “Aging Playfully” column. He received a 2022 Lowell Thomas Award for Excellence in Travel Journalism.