Emerge Magazine 2012 by Miguel Agawin

EMERGE

SPRING/12 90S

NOSTALGIA:

// Bringing it all back PAGE 28

MEET

BUCKET LIST >> PAGE 21

10 THINGS

YOU SHOULD DO BEFORE YOU

TURN 30

KARLA MOY OTHER

+ONES

TO WATCH // Introducing some of Toronto’s

hottest

new talent

under

Welcome to the Alumni Family Stay Connected... Stay Involved... Enjoy the Benefits

Stay Connected Your Gryph Mail account will remain active for one year after your graduation date. Be sure to update your contact information today by visiting www.guelphhumber.ca/alumni Join the Alumni group:

University of Guelph-Humber Alumni

@GHalumni

Stay Involved As an alumni, you can participate in alumni events, mentor current students, or volunteer at an alumni, recruitment, and/or career services event(s). For more information on how to get involved, email ghalumni@guelphhumber.ca

Get a Deal! Your University of Guelph-Humber Alumni card will give you access to many alumni programs and services including: • Discounts for seasonal attractions • Discount at Humber’s bookstore and athletic centre • Free library services from Humber ITAL and University of Guelph • Savings on insurance, the University of Guelph credit card, and other group plans • Discounted continuing education courses through Office of Open Learning at the University of Guelph

Did you know? 2012 marks the Tenth Year Anniversary for the University of Guelph-Humber! The institution was officially opened in 2002. Ten years and 3,000+ alumni later, it’s time to celebrate how far we’ve come!

SAVE THE DATE! The University of Guelph-Humber will hold an Open House event in celebration of the Ten Year Anniversary on Saturday, October 13, 2012.

INSIDE

EMERGE

Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re young, ambitious and ready to snatch success

ONES TO WATCH

Features //

SKYE SWEETNAM This pop star is making a new name for herself.

GOING FOR GOLD Canadian trampolinistto compete in London.

DOWNWARD DOG Has modern yoga practice destroyed its roots?

Toronto living

SPRING/12 style

18 10

Etiquette in TO

Dining in the dark

Going Up

Fantasy Line

16 18

What will get you a dirty look on the subway?

Pass the butter, if you can see it.

What the gentrification of Liberty Village means.

What does the ideal TTC map look like?

Activism Today The global struggle plays out on Toronto’s streets.

The Green Vote Can pot pull in young voters?

22 20 Coffee breeds conversation. 21

Bucket List

10 things you need to do before you hit the big 3-0.

Interior Decorating

22 Pretty rooms with personal style. Babies 28 A90s backward glance at the glory days of pogs and Power Rangers.

Rad 34 How Designer Rad Hourani loves androgenous style.

In the moment Punctuate spring’s muted look with dollops of colour.

Wonders 42 Boy The men’s fashion game is on. Couture 45 Secondhand Where you can find designer duds at thrift store prices.

Matters (Not) 30 Size Confidence makes Vanessa

Entertainment

Vanelli taller than she is.

21st Century News Is digital media shaping current events?

Opinion Part of That World

74 Should Disney classics be in 3D? the Bus 75 On Learn why commuting sucks. > > ON THE COVER Model: Karla Moy // Photographer: Dani Ayee

4 SPRING 2012

Cream and Sugar?

Music

Books

Video Games

Movies

Madonna, Minaj & Melanie Fiona.

Jodi Picoult offers a dazzler with Lone Wolf.

Heavy Weaponry and Survival of the Fittest makes for a mighty spring. Grab the popcorn! The Avengers, Brave, and The Lucky One are ready to roll.

BEHIND

THE SCENES

Producing EMERGE was gruelling but rewarding. We’re talking about the nitty-gritty business before this beautiful magazine was printed – the long hours spent in production, stories that fell through (and apart), the triumphs, and heartbreaks along the way. It’s been quite the journey for the fourth-year journalism team. Here are some photos documenting the process of seeing, well, EMERGE, emerge. Visit emergemagazine.ca for our video blog!

EMERGE 5

MASTHEAD EMERGE MAGAZINE EDITORS-IN-CHIEF MANAGING EDITORS ART DIRECTORS PRODUCTION EDITORS ONLINE DIRECTORS COPY CHIEFS

DEPARTMENT EDITORS FEATURES EDITOR INVESTIGATIONS EDITOR ASSISTANT EDITORS

ASSISTANT ART & DESIGN EDITORS ASSISTANT MULTIMEDIA EDITORS VIDEO DIRECTOR STORY & COPY EDITORS RESEARCH & FACT CHECKING TEAM LAYOUT DESIGNERS

MULTIMEDIA PRODUCTION TEAM

PROMOTIONAL TEAM EVENTS PHOTOGRAPHERS & CONTRIBUTORS

PUBLISHER FACULTY ADVISORS DESIGN CONSULTANT

Samantha O’Connor / Jay de Belen Leviana Coccia / Teal Johannson-Knox Jasmine Kabiling / D’Loraine Miranda Ashlee Lacasse / Jenn Nucum Camille Co / Michael Dotto / Christian Gennara / Mariam Matti Alex Doria / Katie Duncan

Laura Fixman / Autumn Ladouceur / Jamie Bertolini / Melanie Ravka / Elena Maystruk/ Lucas Archer Melissa Schultz Maria Langstaff Melanie Dziengo / Raynika Awotwi / Jennifer Rich/ Corey D’Souza / Victoria Di Domenici / Sandra O’Brien

Magdalena Kapela / Joelle Berlet / Luis-Enrique Arrazola / Krista Sharpe Chantel Bound / Richard Benn / Jen Gata / Britany Murphy Kristina McGarry Akim Burke / Caitlin Connelly / Victoria Di Domenici / Alisha Karim-Lalji / Lisa MacNeill / Krista Sharpe / Sarah Subnath Alexandria Bridges / Jermaine Murray / Melissa Primok Daniel Lopes / Melissa Reber / Nicole Ruggiero / Megan Santos / Ksenia Stassiouk / Sarah Subnath / Tristan Trumpour / Krisha Yasi / Amanda Braithwaite Matthew Appelt / Akim Burke / Cassandra London / Nathan Martin / Michelle Nelson / Tariq Sbiet

Richard Benn / Joelle Berlet Melissa Reber Apollo / Dani Ayee / Janine Antolin / Paul Bolasco / Antony Creary / Kerry Gallagher / Laura-Lynn Petrick / Melanie Rees / Erica Tham / Tiffany Trinidad

Jerry Chomyn Kimberley Noble / John Fitzgerald / Miguel Agawin John Bullock

6 SPRING 2012

CONTRIBUTORS JANINE ANTOLIN There are a few people who would say bad things about legendary Japanese film artist Hayao Miyazaki. Mississauga-based graphic artist Janine Antolin attributes much of her style inspiration to Miyazaki. Any work produced from Miyazaki’s Studio Ghibli is right up her alley. “The art books for [Miyazaki films] are always, always great references and influence,” Antolin notes. She provided Disney influenced art for EMERGE’s Walt vs. 3D opinion story. Antolin’s personal style shifts Disney’s brand into her very own.

PAUL BOLASCO

City and Colour, Fleet Foxes, and John Mayer are just a few of Toronto photographer Paul Bolasco’s inspirations. His off-hipster taste in music is a pointed reflection of his romantic approach to photography. While shooting this issue’s “In the Moment” (page 56), Lana Del Rey and Bon Iver tunes filled the studio.“I find their music soothing and refreshing,” Bolasco says. He’s undoubtedly right, as Iver’s lyrics to Beth/Rest best capture the exuberance of our spring clothing shoot.

KERRY GALLAGHER

Straight from of the hustle and bustle of Toronto’s Queen West, photographer Kerry Gallagher has comfortably found a place in EMERGE’s pages. Shooting several projects in this issue, such as “Hot Commodity” on page 62, there’s one word that describes this demure woman: reliable. “I’d love to be an art director of a magazine someday,” she enthuses.

TIFFANY TRINIDAD

You can get lost sifting through blogs, particularly that of photographer Tiffany Trinidad. Her shooting style is stark with a focus on definition that brings the subject’s personality through. Enjoy Trinidad’s photos that illustrate our story on the brilliant living spaces of two talented misses for “Intimate Interiors” (page 22) and of the delightful Vanessa Vanelli in “Sterling Stature” (page 30). The essence of Trinidad’s work is honesty and simplicity.

EMERGE 7

EDITORS’ LETTER

For the young people defining Toronto In a changing world, EMERGE magazine is for young university graduates who are helping define Toronto. To that end, the magazine brings together the culture, issues, and numerous lifestyle activities that mark our personal and professional lives. EMERGE focuses on what this vibrant city is all about for our 20-something demographic, whether it concerns work, politics, design, pop culture and any one of the myriad activities this city constantly serves up. Inside these pages, you’ll discover what the city might look like if public transit was available right to your doorstep, whether many (or any) of you would consider electing a government in Ottawa if they championed the legalization of pot, and where to go to find the city’s coolest consignment shops. Meet a group of 20-somethings who are busy putting their mark on Toronto in different ways as they expand their potential. Join us as look back on some of the pop culture moments that defined the 90s generation and experience the thrill

8 SPRING 2012

(and uncertainly) of dining in the city’s O’Noir restaurant where service is conducted totally in the dark. Elsewhere in EMERGE, meet two people whose eclectic interiors reflect their intriguing personalities, and allow yourself to be captivated by the stories of a young Olympian hopeful, and a woman who stands emphatically tall, despite her short stature. There’s fashion too, lots of it, as we present the springtime looks that say style, in spades.

Sincerely,

Jay de Belen & Samantha O’Connor, Editors-in-Chief, EMERGE Magazine

TORONTO

Downtown Etiquette .... 10 O’Noir .......................... 11 Liberty Village .............. 12 TTC ............................ 14 Protest ......................... 16 Smoke and Vote .......... 18

IN THIS SECTION:

Learn how to talk, live, eat and play in one of the world’s most multicultural cities. Whether en route to a meeting, sipping a gin and tonic at The Beaconsfield on Queen St. W., or riding the Rocket, this section defines Toronto etiquette. Read an account of what it was like to chow down at the city’s only dine-in-the-dark restaurant. Mariam Matti writes about how Liberty Village has transitioned from factory zone to hip neighbourhood and check out a TTC fantasy map that gets you from door-to-door. Elena Maystruk takes a look at SlutWalk, Occupy and the Congolese movements as they gear up for further action this spring. And finally, contributor Corey D’Souza talks pot politics with clients at Toronto’s downtown Vapor Central, a place where folks can legally smoke marijuana. D’Souza finds smokers undecided about whether they would vote Liberal should the party, if and when it forms a government, choose to legalize weed.

EMERGE 9

TORONTO

What to do to look and act like a local Let’s hear it for proper etiquette. story || NATHAN MARTIN illustrations || JENN NUCUM

BUSINESS What does business have to do with fashion? Everything.

Depending on where you are in the world, something as simple as a greeting can either be considered protocol, or entirely off-side. For instance, if you were to take a leisurely stroll down the streets of St. John’s, Nfld., you might hear such salutations as, “Where ya to b’y?” followed by a response of equal enthusiasm and slang. Walk down that same street and give that same person a “New York” hello, equipped with an F-bomb or two, and see what a man looks like when he sees a ghost. Co-founder of the social publishing platform Konekt.ca, Jeffrey Howard says that no matter what aspect of life one is talking about, in Toronto, fashion is always involved. “There seems to be almost a pretentious model of conduct when it comes to any sort of etiquette in Toronto,” he says. “Image is everything. How you conduct yourself personally is almost as important as how you conduct your business.” Howard, a Queen’s University grad, says that whether you are a “fan” of this sort of thing or not, in order to be successful, you have to buy in. “Depending on where you are in the world there are simply different business customs that a person needs to buy into. In Toronto, this requires an interest in fashion and material things. The watch you wear or the style you are pulling off in a meeting with a potential young investor can be crucial to a first impression.”

10 SPRING 2012

As important as fashion is in business, know your audience. A group of 45-year-old men won’t exactly be thrilled with your presentation if you’re experimenting with pastel colours in your suit combinations. Conversely, a young and energetic group may appreciate a little flare in your wardrobe.

BAR If you meet an interesting person, be prepared to hear their pitch for a movie idea, clothing line, or some special company that they invented that is going to change the world like Mark Zuckerburg. Toronto folks don’t need Facebook display photos. This is where you want to plug the next big event at your bar. This is good for two reasons: it makes it seem as if you’re a super fun person, and convincing people to go to your bar is the only way to stomach working every Thursday, Friday and Saturday night. “$2 Tequila Bonanza!!”

TRANSIT When getting on a bus or subway, there is no etiquette. Period. If you constantly find yourself in a standing roll on the bus or subway, you’re going to want to work on a good lean that incorporates a wide stance. Looking unstable on a bus isn’t going to get you anywhere in this world.

O NOIR Dining in the dark . . . it’s harder than you think. story || ASHLEE LACASSE

here are many things people do in the dark – watch movies, stargaze, or even . . . Well, you know. But something you may not have thought of doing in complete darkness is to eat; and I’m not talking about a bag of movie theatre popcorn. Imagine eating a threecourse meal: appetizer, entrée and dessert, when you are unable to see your own hand if you waved it in front of your face. You’re surrounded by nearly 100 other people, but you only know this from the sound of their voices. Welcome to O.Noir; Canada’s only “dine in the dark” restaurant located in the BloorWellesley area of Toronto. Be prepared to drink, eat, and converse as if you were blind. I’ll admit, I was very uneasy about going into this restaurant. I walked into

the basement of the Town Inn Suites, and wondered if I was in the right place. Walking through the halls, passing by several doorways, I felt lost. There was nobody at the front to greet me, and the dimly-lit environment sort of freaked me out. My companion and I chose the fixedprice menu, which was $39 for a threecourse meal, or $32 for an entrée and appetizer or dessert. We placed our order with the hostess and were brought to the dining room’s entrance, to be introduced to our server. At this point, I felt like I was waiting in line for a haunted house at Halloween Haunt. After knocking from the other side of the door, a visually-impaired server named Victor came out of the dark dining room. He asked us our names, and whether we had been there before. He then

I JUST ATE A FROG LEG. OH MY GOD, I JUST ATE A FROG LEG

CONTINUED ON PAGE 76 >

EMERGE 11

v Liberty Village is the place to be for 20-somethings. story & photos || MARIAM MATTI

isit Toronto’s Liberty Village today and you’ll find a neighbourhood awash in development, in terms of highrises, luxury loft spaces and loads of amenities. Restaurants and bars are scattered around, emulating the social life of the Spadina, College and Ossington neighbourhoods. Vintage buildings have been turned into yoga studios; with gyms and cafés creating a sense of community for residents. What was an industrial area a decade ago has been transformed into a hip hub for young urbanites. In the 1990s, Liberty Village was home to the John Inglis and Sons factory, a manufacturer of machine guns and later, appliances, and the Central Prison for Men, and Andrew Mercer Reformatory for Women, which was the first prison in Canada built exclusively for female offenders. Fast forward to 2004. The neighbourhood experiences phenomenal growth with new condos and loft spaces. And it hasn’t stopped. Seven new towers are set for completion by 2015 in the Village. Neighbourhoods have undergone a speedy gentrification, leaving residents questioning whether or not the condos that are up are durable (flashback to summer 2011 when all that glass was falling from buildings), and if these modern towers

Going up:

toronto

SKYL

12 SPRING 2012

represent a neighbourhood the way a heritage landmark would. The old buildings in the Village are mostly repurposed, and, depending on how you look at it, this could be a good or bad thing. It’s good for business. The revamped neighbourhoods are attracting new buyers looking to make a low interest purchase. Twenty-eight-year-old Anand Iyer is looking to move to the west end of Toronto, and finds that he’s attracted to living in the Village. “Most of the property you can buy is fairly new and the prices aren’t as expensive as the downtown core but it’s still close enough,” he says. Iyer is open to living in either a townhouse or one bedroom condo. And that seems to be the trend for Liberty Villagers. The condos that are being built are small units, one bedroom with a den, ideal for a twenty-something crowd. There are more people walking their dogs than moms with strollers. Given the absence of schools and daycare centres, and the surplus of the opposite, it’s really no surprise that this is not the neighbourhood for families. Remax real estate agent Lindsey Wallace says that Liberty Village condos are a stepping-stone for 25-year-olds. “It’s usually a one-bedroom-plus-den that young couples move in to and by the end of their time there, I usually see a crib in the den,” she says. Wallace has been working in Liberty Village for four years and says that the neighbourhood has more of a community feeling than if you were to purchase a condo on Spadina Ave. “It has the amenities that you need, banks, gym, restaurants, and cool night clubs,” enthuses Wallace. Buying a condo has its advantages. It’s a lot cheaper than buying a house. Real estate agent Christine Cowern says that even renting a condo is far more convenient

because it’s low maintenance, “One doesn’t have to do much up-keep.” And then there’s also the safety aspect. There is usually always a concierge in a condo. But some see the potential of the neighbourhood as having been lost with all the high-rises. Christopher Hume, urban affairs columnist at the Toronto Star believes the neighbourhood has been a disappointment when it had so much potential. The lack of green space, “what on earth were they thinking?” Hume queries regarding the strip mall, the disconnect from the south side (blame that on the train tracks), and buildings that went up cheap and fast. Hume wonders why developers didn’t make it a pedestrian scale neighbourhood, where residents wouldn’t rely so heavily on cars and there would be activity, much like Kensington Market. Talk of Toronto’s condo boom has many wondering if companies are over-building. No other city in North America is building as many condos, with 32 currently under construction. More than 150,000 people are moving to the city every year and everyone wants to move downtown, according to Cowern. Condo towers are going up because they are in demand; it’s a lifestyle many urbanites cannot turn down. Hume says that the city of Toronto needs to set higher standards when it comes to the planning. He feels as though if time and money were put into the development of the neighbourhood, then it wouldn’t have just ended up being copious amount of parking lot and World War II-era factory buildings sitting next to modern condo towers. And still they come.

LINE

EMERGE 13

fantasy line story || TEAL JOHANNSON-KNOX photo || STEPHEN MICHALOWICZ

ransit remains a hot topic at the Toronto city council with the Toronto Transit Commission, the City of Toronto and anyone else who has set foot onto a platform to ride the Rocket. The subway extension the Ford brothers have been advocating, or the addition of light rail transit (LRT) to the city’s transit web has become a game of tug-of-war. Whether you live in North York, Etobicoke, or the end of the line on the Scarborough RT, you likely have your own opinion on what the future of the TTC should be. The commission prides itself on moving people. We can all admit we have dreamt of how nice it would be if the subway could drop us off at our doorsteps. Alright, maybe that’s just me. Nonetheless, the TTC is always under fire. Despite what council negotiates, some Torontonians dare to envision the subway in a new way. You could call it transit porn: Fantasy maps of subway lines extending to all parts of the city. Stephen Michalowicz of Torontoist created a website compiling a series of speculative maps and blue prints exploring alternative transit proposals. Based on past city maps, Michalowicz created a fantasy TTC map of his own. The map (photo on the right) includes a Downtown Relief Line to decrease the amount of commuter congestion. At first glance, you may recognize this TTC map, but taking a closer look will reveal it extends to the far reaches of the city. “This stuff is essentially map porn, which as a self-described nerd, is right up my alley,” notes Michalowicz. He decided to create his own version of the subway map. “I was living in Etobicoke at the time, so a good chunk of my stations are positioned to improve my own getting around,” Michalowicz says. “The rest of the stations, with the exceptions of those on the Spadina extension and the Scarborough RT/subway, are just placed at or near major intersections, or spots I’d like to be able to get to more easily

14 SPRING 2012

– like the Toronto Zoo and Pearson Airport.” Michalowicz named a lot of stations after intersections, “where one or both street names were already in use elsewhere after nearby parks and smaller roads.” As a TTC rider, Michalowicz thinks there are some ways the TTC can be improved. “At the top of my list would be the TTC’s ridiculously outdated fare collection system. Nobody uses fare boxes anymore. A fully integrated open payment system is long overdue.” Michalowicz thinks the city lacks light rail transit, as some councillors have been fighting for. “There are far too many streets in Toronto like Finch, Eglinton, Sheppard, Dufferin, etc. where buses just aren’t

"This stuff is essentially map porn . . . which is right up my alley"

cutting it anymore,” Michalowicz contends. “The rebirth of Transit City is a good start, but the Municipal, Provincial, and Federal governments need to be doing more to help transform the TTC into a modern, comprehensive, and interconnected transit system. Commute times are already at an all-time high, and gridlock is quickly becoming a drain on Toronto’s economy.” Brad Ross, TTC spokesperson, notes that expansion is underway in a number of areas: “The Spadina subway is being extended from Downsview Station, north to York Region. An LRT line is being built on Eglinton Ave. The Scarborough Rapid Transit line is being rebuilt. A Finch West LRT is being constructed, as is a Sheppard East LRT.”

Michalowicz said one big change must be made. “. . . Toronto desperately needs a rail link to Pearson airport.” However, for the TTC, making changes to transit is no easy task. “Cost is the biggest factor for the TTC,” Ross explains. “There [are] capital costs for construction, and there [are] operating costs when one adds new routes. Putting those two aside, I imagine there’s public concern over the disruption of construction when building a subway or LRT line. There are many and varied opinions.” As the city continues to grow, the transit system will have plenty of new issues with which to deal. Regardless, it’s nice to dream of taking the subway anywhere.

EMERGE 15

in the shadows Where in the world are Toronto’s protestors? story || ELENA MAYSTRUK photo || TEAL JOHANNSON-KNOX

Are they still there? It’s a question sometimes posed to those who still follow the wave of activism that enveloped in Toronto last year. After the initial upheaval during Occupy Bay Street, the news on activists in Toronto revolved around evictions and isolated incidents of protesters clashing with Toronto police. But where are the people who stirred up the citizenry in Toronto last year? The answer lies in two factors: winter and timing. Movements such as Occupy and SlutWalk were prominent news in Canada last year, but their time in the public spotlight was wracked with misunderstandings. While in places such as Egypt, protesters moved forward from occupation of Tahrir Square, to expressing dissent and indignation through guerrilla street art, Canadian activists are facing their own challenges. “We’ve faced every criticism you can think of,” says SlutWalk co-founder and organizer, Heather Jarvis. If self-appointed critics choose to “blame and shame” she says, it is difficult to respond in a constructive way. If the demands are reasonable, there must be a dialogue. So what is in store for the Walk? “Its a bit of a scary question” Jarvis admits.

Toronto’s branch of the SlutWalk initiative received disapproval in the past. Some women’s groups issued complaints of the movement. This is an excerpt from “A Sincere Letter From Black Women to SlutWalk, Sept. 23, 2011”: “As black women and girls we find no space in SlutWalk, no space for participation and to unequivocally denounce rape and sexual assault as we have experienced it. We are perplexed by the use of the term “slut” and by any implication that this word, much like the word “Ho” or the “N” word should be re-appropriated.” On a global scale, this movement has taken a back seat when it comes to presenting a unified international effort. CONTINUED ON PAGE 77 >

“The government cannot address one atrocity and ignore others” FREDDY CABONGO

EMERGE 17

GETTING POT-LITICAL Could legalizing marijuana bring the Liberals back on top?

story || COREY D’SOUZA photos || MARIAM MATTI & APOLLO

Marijuana. Weed. Reefer. Sticky-icky. The green stuff has had us talking for years, and it’s still sitting in the grey area – as far as laws and politics go. Last January, the Liberal Party of Canada held a three-day bi-annual convention in Ottawa. It came after an embarrassing showing in the May 2011 elections that reduced the venerable party to third place in the House of Commons. The federal Liberals took time to elect a new party president (not to be confused with its party’s leader), and changed certain party policies. The one policy that caught my eye and the eye of the mainstream media was a new positive stance on the legalization of marijuana. And it was not something they tried to conceal. Standing in front of a crowded room in Ottawa, interim Liberal leader Bob Rae declared “Let’s face up to it, Canada – the war on drugs has been a complete bust.” Rae received a standing ovation.

18 SPRING 2012

Have the Liberals finally discovered that the political future belongs to the party that understands they have to draw more Canadians into the electorate? Considering how popular marijuana is in Toronto – especially among young people – I couldn’t help but think this could be it. It might be the issue that young Torontonians can collectively rally behind, perhaps sparking their interest in the political process. To find out, I visited Vapor Central. Located on Yonge St., just south of Bloor St., Vapor Central is considered a “vapour lounge,” a place where people can gather indoors and smoke marijuana legally. The mere existence of such an establishment, and four other similar outlets in the city, says something about the impact marijuana has on Toronto. Vapor Central is on the second floor of a building located between a Payless shoe store and Noah’s Natural Foods. I walked up a thin, dimly lit staircase. As I got to the top of the

“With regulation and taxation, weed will become as expensive as beer. Governments should realize how much money can be made.” stairs, I smelled marijuana. The faint aroma from the stairway culminated in an overwhelming burst of strong ganja odour. A thick cloud of smoke floated several feet above my head, making some parts of the ceiling hard to see. I found three young men seated in the corner of the room. They were talking, laughing and trading bong hits. What I thought would be a quick interview with Shane 22, Rob, 21, and Alex, 24, ended up being a deeply articulate and enjoyable conversation about politics. When I mentioned the Liberals’ new stance on marijuana, Alex jumped in right away. “It would get complicated. It’s not that easy,” he explained. “You don’t just snap your fingers and weed is legal. What about smoking in public places? On restaurant balconies? Can I grow it? Can I drive while being high?” All I could say was that I didn’t know. However, he noted that the possible platform (marijuana legalization), change is moving in the right direction. “With regulation and taxation, weed will become as expensive as beer,” Shane interrupted. “Governments should realize how much money can be made.” I looked over at Rob. He was staring up at the cloud of smoke under the ceiling, feet on the table, leaning back on his chair, long blond hair partially covering his eyes. I asked Alex and Shane if this platform on its own could get young people out to vote. “There’s no face to it, nothing to attract the kids,” Alex says. “We need a persona, a character. People want genuine, people want honesty, and Jack Layton wasn’t even that guy. Our politicians are too old.” “Look what Obama did in the States, rallying so many people, including youth,” Shane retorted. “There’s no face in Canadian politics, nothing young people can identify with.” There I was, in one of the most weed-friendly spots in Toronto, and two young, high adults, were telling me the legalization of marijuana is not as important as the face that represents it. I began thinking it might not be about the issue of marijuana legalization, but about how it’s sold to the public. Who will be the face of marijuana in the Liberal Party? Will their stand in favour of legalizing marijuana – as a valid social

issue – be strong enough to convince young people to vote? “Do me a favour, guys,” I declared. “Take a look around this room. Let’s say there are exactly 100 people in here right now. How many of these people, if they have never voted before, will vote in the next election if they have the ability to legalize marijuana?” All three looked at the people surrounding them. “Sixty,” Shane, the first person to speak, said. “Sixty-five,” Alex said, chiming in a few seconds after. As I was about to respond, Rob, for the first time in the entire conversation, blurted out, “35.” I looked at him feeling slightly shocked that he decided to participate in the discussion. He spoke in broken sentences. “Voting isn’t on the Internet, we’re not motivated, we’re just lazy,” he said. “It wouldn’t inspire or motivate everyone who wanted change. It’s not enough . . . the youth vote is so bad, people don’t care, not much will happen.” Whether he knew it or not, Rob came the closest to pointing out the average number of young people (aged 18 to 24), who voted in the 2008 election. I informed them of that number: 38 (37.4 per cent). Alex nodded after Rob’s statement and said, “It’s one thing to like the laws, and say I’m going to vote, but its another thing to get up, actually head down to the voting station and make that vote.” After our discussion, I asked them a final question: “What about you guys? I sense you are all marijuana enthusiasts. Will you vote for the Liberals in the next election, if they say they will legalize marijuana?” Alex and Shane took a few seconds to think, while Rob immediately shrugged. “I don’t know,” says Alex. “It really depends on more than just the legalization. I need to know what will actually change before I make my decision.” Shane agreed. “Nothing much changes, or there are very subtle changes. There’s always more bickering in the House of Commons than there is progress.” We might be a few years away from the next federal election, but the youth response will be interesting. If young Canadians – more specifically, young Torontonians – cannot get behind marijuana legalization as an important social issue, what willit take?

EMERGE 19

LIVING

the

juice on java

In a go-go world, coffee drinking is one of the few ways we get to chill

story || CASSANDRA LONDON

rom East Africa to Brazil, and Indonesia to Europe, coffee, for centuries, has been more than just a beverage. Whether its rich aroma invites people to gather in coffee houses in Turkey, or brings families together at Caffe Doria in Toronto’s Rosedale neighbourhood, the rich brown bean continues to serve as a staple for social interaction. “I think it’s a ritual,” says Trevor Wallace, a 29-year old architect who stops by Caffe Doria every day to savour a latté. “I usually come here and have a coffee before I get into work.” Soft, soothing Italian music plays in the background as friendly customers exchange stories about the latest news, views, and gossip. Every day, Wallace enjoys the sweet aroma of beans, honey, and cream in the café, as he waits for his afternoon cup of Joe. Rosa Agostino-Gemmell, a beautiful woman in her 40s, owns this quaint neighbourhood gem, which sits directly across from a Starbucks on Roxborough Street. Agostino-Gemmell says she believes atmosphere is an important part of enjoying the coffee experience. “I have heard a lot of people say [about Caffe Doria that] they feel like they are in Europe, like in Italy or France. People seem to be very comfortable here,” she says. Suresh Thorairaja, a young professional who works for

20 SPRING 2012

Incorporated Canada says he tells outrageous coffee stories to help break the ice when he meets new clients. “Telling stories helps break the awkwardness and lets us stay off-topic while also being on-topic. It allows me to get to know the person,” he notes. Thorairaja tells of Kopi Luwak, a weasel-like animal from Indonesia that eats and partially digests raw red coffee beans. These beans are then excreted and cleaned before being sold to customers. “It’s my trump card,” Thorairaja says. “I open with a story about Africa and their coffee beans, and end with the weasel story to finish them [clients] off.” For Agostino-Gemmell, friendly smiles and the brewing of coffee help her break the ice and interact with her café’s patrons. “It’s the way to socialize,” she says. “It’s a comfort thing. More people come with their friends than with their laptops. We have people sit here up to three hours.” Coffee originated in the rich soil of East Africa, where it was transported to the Arabian Peninsula and cultivated in Yemen. The first coffeehouses or “kaveh kanes,” were opened in Saudi Arabia, where people played chess and exchanged gossip, sang and danced. Today, this ritual of socializing continues among friends and families in cafés. “Coffee is a great conversation-maker, especially for people in business,” Thorairaja says. “It gives a medium to connect, offers us an open subject, and brings my stress level down when I meet a new person.” For Agostino-Gemmell, her café is more than a meeting place. “It’s a European jewel in Rosedale,” she says, with a smile and a twinkle in her eye.

10 before you THINGS you should do

turn 30 story || SARAH SUBNATH illustrations || JENN NUCUM

MAKE A PERSONAL YOUTUBE VIDEO

Film yourself singing, dancing or even doing a tutorial, and post it onto YouTube channel. You may just get your “15 minutes of fame.”

AUDITION FOR CANADA’S GOT TALENT

Before marriage and kids, you may want to try having that one night with no strings attached.

LEARN FRENCH Living in Canada, it is always beneficial to know another language, especially an official one. Learn French.

Visitors to Toronto ’s CN Tower can walk the perimeter of the roof. Dare to get strapped up and test your fears? Toronto resident Blaise Power, 25, said she had her “butt hanging off the edge of the tower” as a guide made the group do activities like squats while on the roof. If you have a fear of heights, overcome them with this challenge.

ZIPLINING IN VANCOUVER

Flying free across a suspended cable, between the mountains in Vancouver?! Nothing can get any more awesome than that!

GO SKYDIVING Blindfolded and handcuffed to his waist, escape artist Scott Hammell, 27, made it into the 2010 Guinness Book of Records when jumped 11,000 ft. just outside of Hamilton, Ont. “There is nothing on Earth like it,” recalled Hammell. “No car, or roller coaster can simulate it, and the mental rush you get from jumping out of an actual airplane cannot be duplicated.”

You may not know how to sing, but you can definitely still try out for this Canadian version of the popular American talent competition.

HAVE A ONE NIGHT STAND

CN TOWER’S EDGE WALK

FINISH SCHOOL By 30, try to at least have one degree down. Maybe two. Or three...whatever floats your boat.

GO TO LAS VEGAS

In Toronto, you can gamble at 19. In the United States however, it’s 21. Making the trip to the gambling and party capital of the world should be one of your adult duties.

MOVE OUT OF YOUR MOM’S HOUSE!

It’s just not classy to bring your date home, and have them see you’re 29 and still living with your mom and dad. Before 30, try at the very least, to get our own home and step out on your own two feet.

EMERGE 21

Intimate Interiors story || JOELLE BERLET & MARIA LANGSTAFF photos || TIFFANY TRINIDAD

outh African-born Paula John, 25, is a Ryerson University graduate with a BA in Photography and a Masters in Documentary Media. These influences can be seen in the many pieces of artwork displayed throughout her Queen and Bathurst apartment. Photo collages and film reels grace her walls, and a mannequin proudly wears a dress made entirely of filmstrips, which she spent two weeks sewing together. It was a daunting task made no less easy by her two cats, Ziggy (the overweight teenager) and Jenny (the weight-watching senior), who decided they quite enjoyed battling over any unguarded strips of film.

22 SPRING 2012

John has been living in her apartment for a year and a half and chose it specifically for the lighting. No dark, dingy basement dwelling would do. Natural lighting, and lots of it, was a must. One of the most sentimental pieces of art in Johnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s apartment is a wooden puzzle in the shape of South Africa, where her family is originally from. The puzzle is an exact replica of one that was a fixture in her childhood home growing up. When John saw it while on a trip, she snatched it up. She has been building her portfolio at www.paula-john. ca and, with several current works in progress, she dreams of opening up her own studio in the near future.

RIGHT: “This puzzle is identical to one my parents own that sat on our lounge table during my childhood. When I went back to South Africa in 2009, I found it at a shop in Cape Town and bought it for my home.”

BOTTOM: “The film dress came out of me wanting to combine the two mediums that I use most in my art practice: textiles and 16mm celluloid filmmaking. I’m interested in how the two technologies relate to each other, and the myriad of similarities that exist between the two. At the time I was studying the Italian Futurists, a group of vanguard artists in the early 20th century who wrote impassioned manifestos on everything you can imagine. One of the Futurists, Vincenzo Fani, wrote a manifesto on women’s fashion where he calls for the use of non-traditional materials, which inspired me to fix the dress. It’s made of approximately 150 feet of one of my earlier films and took me two weeks to make, working almost constantly.”

EMERGE 23

TOP: “This piece was one of my MFA [Documentary Media] projects which examined my experiences with severe depression and a breakdown I suffered at age 15. Through the production of various art projects, including the quilt, I was able to examine and come to terms with what happened to me. It was an outlet for these very dark feelings and a means to channel them into something positive. It allowed me to take control and transform my experience.”

LEFT: “This [embroidery] is a much older work of mine, where I was just beginning to create hybrid pieces. It’s also from when I was starting to develop my own feminist philosophies. I was interested in pornography as an issue that is incredibly divisive within the feminist community. By pairing this heated subject matter with a method that is quintessentially feminine, as well as something that begs to be looked at close-up, touched, examined, I hoped to create a dialogue surrounding what pornography means to women.”

24 SPRING 2012

The Accidental Artisan

mma Thompson, 21, a third-year Fashion Communication student at Ryerson University, describes the design of her bedroom at Church and Wellesley as a “wellplanned collage,” stemming from creativity that arrives at unexpected moments. Drawing her inspiration from numerous, sometimes obscure sources, she says that, “It’s like a merger of two or more things I’ve come across, and somehow it just works – or you figure out how to make it work.” She then asks, “Am I the only one who experiences that sudden mind explosion, where a whole bunch of things collide in the mind’s eye and that’s the only thing you can think of – and it has to be done, or at least sketched down for later?” To build on the look and feel of her room, Thompson picks up pieces here and there to add to the mix. Many of her design ideas stem from an unlikely influence – her grandmother, from whom she has acquired everything from a treadle sewing machine to a 1920s cloche hat. Besides raiding Grandma’s antique shed to nurture her own collection, Thompson takes on more do-it-yourself projects than her hectic schedule allows. “I enjoy that I can say I’ve made a lot of the things in this room when people ask, ‘Oh, that’s neat; where’d you get it?’ I often forget how busy my schedule already is before I dive into my next project, so sometimes they sit on pause for a while. “I would say that in my experience, you like something more that you’ve created than anything you could buy.”

EMERGE 25

“The antique dresser (at left) is from my grandma. An addition to her house was actually built around it. When my mother and grandma went to move it out of the room, they had to take off part of the door encasement just to get the dresser out. You can tell it’s old because there are hardly any nails used in it; they would’ve used different knotches to make it all fit together.”

26 SPRING 2012

TOP: “I bought the print at the Royal [Agricultural] Winter Fair. The thing about Audrey [Hepburn] is I think she was obviously quite the fashion icon, but there’s something about her character I’m attracted to – something that movie stars this day lack. She was a very feminine, respectable figure. She wasn’t so much of a sex symbol, just a very sharp lady.”

RIGHT: “This [jewelry board] was a necessity. I’ve made many smaller versions, so to accommodate my large collection of jewelry, I just made it [extra] big. I like old stuff so I ‘podged’ old, old, Old Life Magazine ads that I thought were funny.”

EMERGE 27

90s Babies

More than ever, Pop culture h 1990: The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air’s first episode airs.

Born this year: Kristen Stewart Emma Watson Soulja Boy

1991: Super Nintendo gaming console is released in North America on August 23. PBS airs the cartoon Where in the World is Carmen Sandiego?

1992: Are You Afraid of the Dark?

1990

debuts on TV.

Born this year: Demi Lovato Selena Gomez Miley Cyrus

1993: Boy Meets World and Mighty Morphin’ Power Rangers air.

1994: PlayStation 1 is released in Japan Died this year: Dr. Seuss Miles Davis B.F. Skinner

and Disney’s The Lion King hits theatres. Notorious B.I.G releases his album entitled Ready To Die.

Design: Jen Gata & Jenn Nucum // Illustrations: Melanie Rees & Erica Tham

28 SPRING 2012

Born this year: Dakota Fanning Justin Bieber

Died this year: Kurt Cobain

s Timeline

helped to enrich and define us 2000: Fears of the Y2K bug ring in the new millennium. 1999: Christina Aguilera’s album drops, and her songs Genie in a

Bottle, What a Girl Wants, and Come on Over Baby top the Billboard Hot 100 chart over the span of one year.

Born this year: Willow Smith

1998: N’Sync appears on the Boy Band scene and

Born this year: Elle Fanning Jaden Smith

Died this year: Tupac

Died this year: Notorious B.I.G Princess Diana Mother Teresa

Died this year: Frank Sinatra Bob Kane Shari Lewis

2000

Britney Spears’ hit single Baby One More Time is released, along with a scandalous music video. Pokémon airs its first episode in North America.

Died this year: Big L Curtis Mayfield

1995: Los De Rio’s song Macarena becomes a hit single, and dance is born. Japan’s anime TV series Sailor Moon makes its North American debut.

1996: The Tamagotchi toy lands on store shelves.

The world is introduced to the Spice Girls and Backstreet Boys.

1997: Teen brother band Hanson releases its

debut album Middle of Nowhere, and gets everyone singing the catchy hit song MMMBop.

EMERGE 29

sterling S stature Meet vivacious 26-year-old Vanessa Vanelli, living large at 3’ 9” story || MELISSA SCHULTZ photos || TIFFANY TRINIDAD & LISA TATONE

30 SPRING 2012

tanding three-feet-nine-inches tall, 26-year old Vanessa Vanelli lives in a world not designed for her. Usually mistaken for being a little person, she was born without femur bones, the result of a leg deformity called femoral hypoplasia. When I first met with Vanelli for coffee, the only empty seats were bar stools. I awkwardly looked around for an empty chair or couch, but Vanelli, without hesitation, pointed out the tall chairs and led the way. What I thought would require considerable effort, Vanelli accomplished with ease, manoeuvring onto the stool, and casually sipping her latté. Raised by her parents, Rose and Ray Vanelli, to try everything at least once, she has developed a tenacious and persevering attitude. Rose, Vanelli’s mother, used fertility drugs in an effort to get pregnant for a second time. During her first trimester, however, she learned she was diabetic and had to start using insulin, which many doctors linked to being the cause of her daughter’s femoral hypoplasia. For the remainder of her pregnancy, doctors closely examined Rose and the baby. Throughout her term, Rose and Ray were told every imaginable detail: the size of the baby’s head, how much she weighed, and how long she was. However, when Vanelli was born, it was obvious that her legs weren’t

"I wish I could just finish an outfit with a nice pair of heels when I'm going out with Friends"

develop properly. Of all the complications the couple were notified of, how could something so major be left out? “We had been to the hospital so many times and were so excited . . . it was a real shock,” Rose says in the interview. “You’re dealing with the shock that you can’t believe that this has happened, that she was born like that.” With no explanation from doctors other than “it’s environmental,” Vanelli’s parents were left to raise a disabled child on their own. As if the shock of their daughter having femoral hypoplasia wasn’t enough, her anxious parents were then informed she was also born with a cleft palate and Pierre Robin Syndrome. The latter meant she had a smaller than normal jaw and tongue. After being hospitalized for three months, and struggling to nourish Vanelli via feeding tube, Rose and Ray finally got to take their new baby home. As she grew up, people seemed to pay more attention to Vanelli’s small stature. As her body developed, it became more prominent that she wasn’t on the same physical level as her peers. Vanelli says she never experienced bullying or name calling, but staring was something else. “It makes me feel like a monster,” Vanelli says. “I think the worst is when there are two or more people and one person sees me and taps the other person so that they can stare, too. It makes me crazy.” Her reaction to such blatant gawking is dependent upon her mood, though most days she says she’s able to just ignore it. Her mother has a slightly different approach to dealing with people who stare at her daughter. Rose will march right up to the offender, put her face mere centimetres from theirs and boldly

return a stare. Vanelli and her father frown upon Rose’s antagonistic method, but she does it regardless. “I want to make them feel what it’s like to have that stare right in their face,” Rose says, adding she has no problem with setting obnoxious people straight, as there is no reason why her daughter shouldn’t be able to live in this world. Vanelli has noticed a difference in the way people approach her, which she says may be due to TLC’s airing of The Little Couple and Little People Big World. Vanelli thinks these shows have created an outlet for people to express their curiosity and avoid harsh judgments. “It’s better that they are open to asking questions instead of just staring and making fun of me,” she explains. “It’s nice that people can open their eyes instead of being rude.” Being compared to others may be a problem for Vanelli on other levels, too. “It is so frustrating that I can’t wear heels because of my legs being different lengths,” she says. “I wish I could just finish an outfit with a nice pair of heels when I’m going out with friends.” Vanelli has recently faced the challenge of finding a job, as well. She receives return calls from potential employers, but experiences a problem after the first face-to-face meeting. “Obviously no one has come out and said it’s because of the way I look, but I can tell by the way they look at me when I walk in,” Vanelli explains. After not being offered any jobs, Vanelli tells me she has decided to take a break from the hunt and plans to remain working for her father. Vanelli aspires to eventually run the company. In the summer of 2011, a long-time friend of Vanelli, Lisa Tatone, brought up the idea of participating in the Ride for Heart, Toronto’s largest bike fundraiser. Having always longed for the freedom of riding a bike, she jumped at the opportunity. As a person with femoral hypoplasia, Vanelli doesn’t have knees, making it physically impossible for her to pedal a standard bike. After some research – and the pricey purchase of a bike that Vanelli would propel with her hands – she says, “[Riding the bike] made me feel so free.” For her, the next step was to begin training for the charity race. Although always trying to be supportive, Vanelli’s parents feared for their daughter’s well-being. With only a week left until the race, Vanelli did not have much opportunity to train and her family suggested she back out. Despite their doubt, Vanelli remained determined to experience something she had never done before. “If you want to support me, you can wait at the finish line,” she said to her family. Twenty-five kilometres and two-and-a-half-hours later, a sore and tired, but very proud Vanelli met her family at the finish line. “It felt amazing to do the 25-kilometres for someone who didn’t get to properly train for it,” she said. “I had no idea I had it in me.”

EMERGE 31

STYLE

Rad Hourani ............................................... 34 In The Moment ........................................... 36 Boy Wonders ............................................... 42 Sustainable Fashion ................................... 45

Jump into Spring Whether looking for added f lare, searching for the season’s newest trends or going through last year’s wardrobe, find everything you need this spring here. Meet designer Rad Hourani, who made his Canadian runway debut in Toronto. Raid the shelves at H&M, The Gap and Urban Outfitters to find your perfect fit. Meanwhile, discover Toronto-based Dreamland Apparel, and get tips on how to make use of last year’s closet.

spring awakening EMERGE 33

Toronto designer finds he’s his

own best

MUSE story || LUIS-ENRIQUE ARRAZOLA photos || courtesy of RAD HOURANI

ashion is a cutthroat industry. That’s especially true for aspiring designers in the feeble Canadian fashion industry and it’s an uncommon feat when Canadian designers are able to garner international critical acclaim without having to relocate to one of the four fashion capitals: New York, Paris, London or Milan. Complex Geometries’ Clayton Evans relocated production to New York. Jeremy Laing presents his collection during New York Fashion Week while still based in Toronto. And Rad Hourani made the move to Paris from Montreal in 2006 to get his two labels off the ground. After leaving Montreal for Paris six years ago to launch his eponymous couture label, Hourani returned to Canada to make his runway debut. The fifth season of his readyto-wear line, RAD by Rad Hourani, was presented at Toronto’s World MasterCard Fashion Week. As part of the runway presentation, Hourani also debuted his new short film Five Years of Rad Hourani as the show’s opener, documenting the designer’s past work and inspirations. “I’m inspired by the idea of creating something that can’t be defined by a limited category and things that have no reference from the past,” says Jordan-born Hourani, who moved to Montreal when he was 16 before decamping for Paris in 2005. “I believe the only way you can attend to this kind of inspiration, is by observing everything around you.” With a strong focus on combining androgyny with modernity throughout his

34 SPRING 2012

Challenging conventions: Five years of

Rad hourani

two labels, Hourani’s garments blur the line between the genders. His is a unisex collection of garments that challenge and de-classify social conventions through a unique use of silhouettes. The clothes are architectural in design, marked with astute precision, austerity, bold lines and linear silhouettes that push the garments into androgynous territory. “Even the most advanced societies are very limited in the way they define themselves,” notes Hourani. “The way I do

things without gender or season, it applies to everything in life.” says Hourani who numbers his collections. “It’s about defying those limitations that are so often self-imposed and it’s important for me to question things rather just fitting in. My objective is to create garments that can be worn by anyone at any time.” Hourani goes as far as creating a signature leather boot. It has a bold square toe and a chunky heel that measures a soaring 11 cm, defying all gender barriers and

stemming from Hourani’s own personal tendency for towering footwear. “I used to wear cowboy boots and I would custom make for myself every year one pair of boots with heels. They weren’t from a brand,” says Hourani, who often wears his own creations and heeled boots. “I just found a shop that custom made them and that’s where I used to go and I designed the heel boots as I needed it.” While Hourani’s heeled boots are a provocative play on gender that fit in well with the rest of his collection, it isn’t often you see a man strolling down the street in a pair of heels higher than those of his gal pals. “My shoes are very well received and I’m always happy to see people wearing them on the street all around the world,” he says. Combining symmetrical lines and crisp cuts, Hourani’s collection maintains a sense of multi-functionality with a series of transformable coats that can be worn in different ways. They have removable sleeves and re-adjustable lapels, that, create with just a zip a drastically different look. “Fashion for me is about clothes transcending simple functionality and gaining symbolic, evocative power by engaging in a dialogue with their environment and their time,” say Hourani. “It’s a tool for selfexpression and self-invention. I’m not into trends. I’m into style in which I focus on my signature look.” Hourani’s signature look is rooted in monochromatic materials but, every so often, he delves out of his comfort zone and experiments with particular colour palettes. For his fifth collection, Hourani features deep shades of green and khaki accents. “It’s a question of a feeling,” he notes. “I like to study timeless colours and to use my favorite shades in them in my collections. I have also used red and grey and white in the past. It’s always about what I feel like wearing and having in my wardrobe.” While most designers design their clothes with a man and woman in mind, Hourani opts to design with himself and the Rad Hourani person in mind. “A Rad Hourani person is someone who does not follow a trend, people who do not define themselves as men or women, who feel ageless all the time, and looks comfortable when they move, think, talk and dress,” says Hourani. “I guess they are people that I see my reflection in. It’s all about the mirror when it comes to others.”

EMERGE 35

IN THE MOMENT be seduced by spring’s alluring styles Photographer / PAUL BOLASCO Director & Stylist / JAY DE BELEN Makeup / CAMILLE CO Model / NICOLE BRAMER

PREVIOUS PAGE: TOP BY ARITZIA / MAXI SKIRT BY THE GAP / BOOTS BY JEFFREY CAMPBELL THIS PAGE: T-SHIRT BY MELISSA BENNETT / KHAKIS BY THE GAP / SANDALS BY H&M

TOP BY URBAN OUTFITTERS / MAXI SKIRT BY THE GAP / BOOTS BY JEFFREY CAMPBELL

PREVIOUS PAGE: SHIRT BY THE GAP / KHAKIS BY THE GAP / BOOTS BY JEFFREY CAMPBELL. THIS PAGE: DRESS BY URBAN OUTFITTERS / RAINBOOTS BY THE GAP

boy won Creators of Toronto

streetwear capture the cool

PHOTOGRAPHER Antony Creary || STORY Jay de Belen || DIRECTOR & STYLIST D’Loraine Miranda || MODEL Patrick Justin Silverio

1LOVETO

/1loveto.com

Three years in, and 1LOVETO is a local sensation, grabbing attention from celebrities Drake, J.Cole and Melanie Fiona. Founder Bryan Brock says Toronto has the world in one city, and we couldn’t agree more. // Hat by Supreme, T-Shirt by 1LOVETO, Jeans by Wings&Horns, Shoes by Converse.

42 SPRING 2012

nders

DREAMLAND

/dreamlandapparel.com

Hip-hop and board sports were the inspiration for Dreamland Apparel. But it looks like nautical themes are the main sartorial influence for founders Chris Elliott and Brian Caicco. Urban and seafarer style aside, Dreamland stands by its â&#x20AC;&#x153;fulfill your dreamsâ&#x20AC;? ethic. Positive vibes meets positive minds equals positive living. // Hoodie by Dreamland Apparel hoodie, Hat by SSUR.

EMERGE 43

WILHELM APPAREL /wilhelmapparel.com

It’s a high school dream come true for Wilhelm Apparel’s Adam Doupe and Julian Bolinger. Based in Mississauga, Ont., the brand hasn’t even turned one-year-old. Loving metal, posthardcore, and Canadian rock, Wilhelm Apparel represents living with passion. Might be broad, but the message is universal. And their product is definitely ready-to-wear. // T-Shirt by Wilhelm Apparel, Pants by Club Monaco.

Sustainable Fashion: A Guide to Consigning

story & photos || MAGDALENA KAPELA

verywhere we look, there’s someone giving us advice on how to reduce our carbon footprint and create an environmentally-sustainable society. But if you’re like me, reducing the thermostat a few degrees during the winter months, or making homemade cleaning products isn’t something easy to commit to. Adopting a green lifestyle and diminishing my carbon footprint are things I want to do – I’m just not willing to sacrifice a certain quality of life. I guess I’m what Josh Dorfman would call, “a lazy environmentalist.” According to Earth Day Canada, a national environment communications organization, 70 per cent of waste in landfills can be recycled. As I prepare for my annual closet purge, I realize I have a lot of unwanted, good-quality stuff that can definitely be recycled. Obviously, giving clothes to charity is always a commendable choice; but when you have designer duds or barely-worn clothes on your hands, dumping them into a plastic bin at your local thrift or charity shop can just provoke anxiety. This is where consignment stores come in. Consignment shops connect your pre-loved items with new owners who will give them a loving new home. Unlike thrift shops, where merchandise is donated, consignment stores offer you a profit in exchange for your designer pieces. The store will take your items and sell them for you. This relieves you from the work and expense involved with selling your merchandise on your own. Once the item is sold, the store will take a percentage.

Tips for consigning your duds: DO NOT SHOW UP WITH A GARBAGE BAG FULL OF YOUR CRAP > Clothes should be cleaned, pressed, on hangers or neatly folded.

PAY ATTENTION TO DETAIL > Secure loose buttons, trim stray threads, and, go wild with the lint roller.

VISIT THE STORE OR WEBSITE... > Get a better idea of what brands and labels they carry.

DO YOUR RESEARCH > Each store has different policies and guidelines, so make sure you investigate the shop’s consignment rules.

Some shops, such as Kind Exchange, offer a donate-to-charity option, which alleviates any guilt you may feel for skipping the Salvation Army. In addition to being green, the act of consignment is also economical. Those looking to become the proud new parent of underappreciated Louboutin booties can get them for a fraction of the cost by visiting a consignment store. Whether you are consigning or making a purchase through a consignment shop, you’re extending the lifeline of a garment. The longer a garment’s lifeline, the longer it stays out of a landfill. And that’s something you can feel good about. These ‘Emerge Approved’ shops have been carefully inspected and you can rest assured the apparel found in these stores don’t have sweat or stain marks.

EMERGE 45

Haute Classics / 946 Yonge Street Mon. - Sat. 11 a.m. - 6 p.m.

The Place: Best friends Jina Han and Stella Kim ran an online store

for two years before deciding to open this consignment boutique. The shop incorporates classic and trendy styles, which is backed up by their motto “it’s in the mix.” In-house styling is also offered, and, unlike some boutiques, the staff at Haute Classics will not push a sale if they don’t feel an item looks good on the potential buyer. “We are very blunt. We want customers to be returning customers, so we are honest when something looks terrible and will help you find something that will be flattering with your body figure,” says Han.

Stocked with: An immaculate handbag and shoe collection as

well as high-end designer labels like Vera Wang, Emilio Pucci and Prada. The store also has a full rack of clothes priced at $50 and less, for those glamour gals looking to dress like Carrie Bradshaw on a tight budget.

How it works: Consignors must make an appointment. For

those who prefer working from the comfort of their couch, the store offers an online appraisal. An appointment will be scheduled to make sure your items meet the store’s criteria: Label, Authenticity, Condition and Demand. Once the pieces are accepted, an agreement is signed and the authentication process (by a third party authenticator) takes place. The store wants to make sure the consignor is comfortable with how the items are priced, and will work with them to set a price that both parties can agree on. The consignment service also includes high-quality photographs and descriptions on the store’s website. Any items that are not sold within a three-month period will be returned or can be donated to a charity. Consignors receive a 60 per cent cut from sold merchandise. This is the best rate available in Toronto for a designer consignment service.

What they want: Classic and timeless designer labels. “We have a

reputation for luxury goods and carrying designer labels so we want to continue with that in order to properly serve our clientele,” says Erika Hrycun, the store’s manager. Items have to be 100 per cent authentic, new, or in mint condition. Items must be less than two-years-old, except for classic vintage pieces. Shoes cannot have any visible signs of wear.

What they don’t want: Scuffed shoes. Damaged clothing. Coveted items: I marveled at a pair of cork slingback pumps

($310) with a chain heel from Brian Atwood’s Resort 2011 Collection, a cropped DKNY blazer ($30) and a Gucci Sukey Medium Straw Tote ($625).

46 SPRING 2012

Kind Exchange / 611 Queen Street West Mon. - Sat. 11 a.m. - 7 p.m., Sun. 12 - 5 p.m.

The Place: In October 2011, Jeffrey Wexler and Court-

ney Callahan, a boyfriend/girlfriend team opened Kind Exchange. The store is a treasure trove for budget-conscious fashionistas. It offers an assorted inventory that is reflective of the diverse and vibrant community in which it is situated. Kind Exchange also strives to give back to the community by offering a “Skip-a-bag” programme, which encourages people to bring in their own reusable bags. This option is both environmentally-friendly and charitable, as they match the bag cost and make a 10 cent donation to one of three charities.

Stocked with: If you’re looking for mall labels at thrift store prices, head here. You’ll find designer pieces from Anna Sui and mall labels like H&M, BCBG and Club Monaco.

How it works: Callahan stated the store is moving away from the consignment model: “we are going to be paying cash on the spot for everything from H&M to Gucci.” The store also offers a trade option. Those who opt for a trade will get 20 per cent more value for their merchandise. That means instead of getting $20 cash, you can trade for $24 worth of merchandise. You can also choose to donate, so the profit from the sale of your merchandise goes towards a local charity. The store is currently working with three charities: Red Door Family Shelter, The Multiple Sclerosis Society of Canada and Goodwill.

What they want: Clean, seasonally-appropriate cloth-

ing, shoes and accessories. Items do not need to have designer labels. Classic designer pieces and wardrobe staples are always welcome. Courtney encourages people to bring everything in.

What they don’t want: Stained and ripped clothing. The store does not accept lingerie and athletic gear.

Coveted items: Seven for All Mankind jeans ($29) and a never-been-worn D&G lace front dress ($279) – original tags shows it retailed for $650. My shopping partner went crazy for a vintage saddle bag ($35).

ONES TO WATCH THEY’RE YOUNG, HIP AND TALENTED. MEET SOME OF TORONTO’S UP-AND-COMING FRESH FACES UNDER 25 story || D’LORAINE MIRANDA & JASMINE KABILING photos || D’LORAINE MIRANDA

THE TRIPLE THREAT KARLA MOY, 19 BLOGGER/GRAPHIC DESIGNER/ ASPIRING PHOTOGRAPHER Meet Karla Moy: a blogger and graphic designer who, at 19-years-old, has already built quite the name – and resumé – for herself. Moy was the mastermind behind Drake’s former official fan website (allthings-fresh.net), Lil Wayne’s e-diary (weezythanxyou.com) and the designer behind his No Ceilings and Sorry 4 The Wait mixtape covers. Moy picked up design at the tender age of 10 when she first downloaded Paintshop Pro [later moving onto Photoshop], and by 12, she had learned how to use HTML. While many students were only thinking about internships, Moy already had interns working for her on All Things Fresh. Impressive? We think so. For Moy, the bustle never seems to stop and we cannot help but watch. Currently, you can find her running her own website and blog (hustlegrl.com), studying at York University where she plans to major in graphic design and minor in French, or working with Ro Ransom and JMSN – two new, up-and-coming artists. If your house was up in flames and you could only take three things with you, what would they be? My external hard drive, my hamster, and my purse. As a 90s baby, what were your favourite toys, TV shows and artists? Easy-bake oven – I loved that; favourite TV show was Fresh Prince of Bel-Air (even though that was towards the late 90s when I could understand it more) and my favourite artist would probably be Aaliyah. What are some of your life and career highlights? Going on tour with Drake was a great experience; doing a couple of events with Michaëlle Jean, the former Governor General of Canada and being able to be the voice of Lil Wayne while he was in jail – it got a lot of media attention so that was pretty cool.

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photo || DANI AYEE

THE FRESHMAN

CARA CHEUNG, 23 FASHION DESIGNER “I’ve always loved to draw clothes,” says Torontobased designer Cara Cheung who showcased her Fall/ Winter 2012 collection at Toronto’s World MasterCard Fashion Week. Cheung, who grew up in a family that loved to travel, has always had a passion for creativity and art. However, applying to Ryerson University’s Fashion Design programme wasn’t what the 23-year-old had in mind after high school. “I decided to take a risk and go for it,” she says. Aside from showcasing at fashion week, Cheung scored a coveted segment on Canada’s Fashion Television and her designs have been seen on prominent Canadian personalities such as eTalk’s Tanya Kim and MuchMusic’s Pheobe Dysktra. On her newfound success, Cheung says “I feel like I still have so much left to learn.” What’s the most random fact about you? I used to play badminton, intensely. Who would you love to dress next? Nina Dobrev. I’m a huge Vampire Diaries fan, and I know that she’s from Toronto. Actually, this is really random too but the show Degrassi, which she used to be on, had an episode that needed badminton players and I was an extra in it. Where do you see yourself in the next five years? I’d like to show in New York. I wouldn’t go until I felt confident enough and had enough experience to take my stuff there. Maybe sooner than five years but that’s definitely something I’d like to do by then.

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THE TAILOR MATTEO SGARAMELLA, 24 FOUNDER & CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF OUTCLASS

In 2010, fresh out of university, Matteo Sgaramella launched Outclass, his own locally produced menswear label. At the time in Toronto, it seemed as though the trend amongst 20-somethings was to ditch their jobs and become their own bosses. Sgaramella is thriving. The 24-year-old has released four collections, organized three pop-up shops, and his designs can be found in several boutiques in Toronto and Vancouver. Sgaramella, who initially studied graphic design at the Ontario College of Art and Design only began taking a serious interest in branding and fashion design in his final year of studies. For his thesis, Sgaramella wanted to focus on branding and concept development, and, from there, Outclass was born. After showcasing his

project at OCADU’s grad show, which received a great response, the designer went to work. Outclass was officially launched in September 2010. So what’s next for Outclass? “In a couple months, I’d like to be in three more stores,” he says. “For the most part, I’ll be making everything in Canada because it’s where I live. It’s where I rest my head”. Who are some of your favourite artists at the moment? ASAP Rocky. [His music is] like a resurgence of old school vibes but blending it with new styles, which is exactly what Outclass is – influenced by older designs, older styles, older aesthetics and blending that with new fits, new fabrics – contemporizing old stuff.

THE LYRICIST BRANDON DRAMATIC, 22 EMCEE/SONGWRITER/MUSICIAN “It’s always interesting when people who have absolutely no idea who you are, are able to contact you and tell you that the things [you’ve] said; the songs [you’ve made], are things that mean something to them,” says Toronto-based rapper and songwriter, Brandon Dramatic. The 22-year-old, who released his freshman mix tape What You Don’t Know in 2009 (followed by his latest Domino Jones in 2011), gained the attention of MTV Canada and embarked on his first tour last year. He’s well on his way to becoming the next big thing in Toronto’s hip-hop community. Dramatic, who participated in musicals and orchestra throughout school, penned his first song after graduating from Monsignor Cederbrae Collegiate Institute in 2007. Aside from writing and performing, he has also been involved in community mentoring programs and took part in The Remix Project in 2010. His best advice to aspiring musicians is to become immersed in the community. “If you want to be creative – if you want to have a craft you have to surround yourself with

artists. Especially if you’re living in Toronto,” he says. “Go to Kensington Market on a Sunday and just see the culture that’s right there . . . it’s all about the community . . . people who don’t even know each other’s names become the best of friends well before the end of the night, so just make sure you surround yourself with positive things and positive reinforcement.” Within the next 10 years Dramatic is hoping to become more established as a rapper. True to his Torontonian roots, the songwriter isn’t looking to leaving Canada for good. “I would never limit myself to anything, but at the same time I’d love to establish something for myself independently right here [in Toronto].” Who are some of your musical influences? James Brown and Miles Davis. When it comes to a guy like James Brown, I see him as being very charismatic and lively. He commands the stage; he commands the crowd in an enigmatic way . . . and when you listen to Miles Davis . . . I’ve never heard a single word from him, I’ve never heard a quote from him, I’ve never heard his voice. That fact he’s still able to speak so coherently to me through his music is something that I will never forget. What has currently been playing on your iPod? Blue and Green by Miles Davis, Before the Night is Through by Jesse Boykins III, and Stranger by Jhene Aiko.

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THE FIGHTER NINKO PANGILINAN, 24 FOUNDER OF NITRO FITNESS BOOT CAMP If there’s someone who knows about persistence, it’s Ninko Pangilinan, personal trainer and owner of Nitro Fitness. “I have a lot of self motivation; a lot of self-drive,” says the 24-yearold. Pangilinan, who graduated from the University of GuelphHumber’s Kinesiology program, found himself immersed in health and fitness at a young age. When he was 16, he was coaching children and men’s league basketball teams. In May 2010, Pangilinan launched Nitro Fitness, an intensive boot camp that specializes in helping clients lose weight within a certain amount of time. Pangilinan attributes Nitro Fitness’ growing clientele to his method. “It was a different style of training that I was bringing,” he says. He was unaware of the events to come. In June 2011, he was diagnosed with Stage 3 Non-Hodgkin’s Lymphoma. “It was one of the toughest things I’ve ever went through,” he explains. After a six-month hiatus, in which his business partner, J Cruz, held down the fort at the gym, and eight chemotherapy sessions later, Pangilinan was back on his feet and at it again. In January, the team opened its second location in Mississauga. “The drive to continue with Nitro is what keeps me going,” the survivor says. “To me, we haven’t even started yet. We are nowhere near close to what we are capable to doing.”

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What have been some of the major accomplishments for you and Nitro Fitness? Having the ability to help. It’s really motivating for us to keep helping people when they’re really happy with the results. Opening up the Mississauga location, it was huge for me. Being awarded [Brampton Business Times’ Platinum Winner Award in Fitness Health and Recreation] within six months of starting. Favourite songs at the moment? Motto by Drake. Party by Beyonce. I love that song. Any long-term goals for you? I can see us all over Canada. My ultimate goal is to have Nitro Fitness in Vancouver, where I used to live. I love it there, and, at least one in the Philippines. I’ve always wanted to be a teacher. I kind of want to be a motivational speaker, in a way.

THE graduate CASSIE STEELE, 22 ACTOR/MUSICIAN If you’ve ever seen an episode of Degrassi: The Next Generation, you might remember Cassie Steele as Manuella ‘Manny’ Santos.Today, you may recognize her as Abby Vargas, an aspiring actress, on MuchMusic’s L.A. Complex. Though Steele plays the role of an aspiring actress, she’s definitely not new to the acting business. She began taking improv classes at the age of eight and by the time she was 13, knew she wanted to pursue a career in acting. Steele cites her parents and little sister, Alex, as her main influences: “They have the most amazing hearts and heads and it really opens up my mind and soul when we’re all together.” When she’s not filming, you can find Steele in the studio working on her third music album or working with FunnyorDie. As a 90s baby, what were your favourite toys, TV shows, and artists? Oh God . . . Sailor Moon, Power Rangers, Batman and XENA; Toys? Yuck; Artist? Spice Girls, Nirvana, Sonic Youth, Portishead, Hole, Garbage . . . so many 90s artists, I can’t pick a fave! Any advice to those who want to follow in your footsteps? I think the best advice I could give to budding artists is always remember to broaden your skill around your main occupational goal. There is so much competition out there and there is always going to be someone better than you. What makes you stronger is your ability to do every job relating to yours and the middle man jobs in between. The stronger you are at everything, the more doors will open until you find the door that’s yours.

photo || LAURA-LYNN PETRICK

the traveller MAYAN RAJENDRAN, 24 DOC MAKER Meet Mayan Rajendran, soon-to-be the first male to receive a Master’s degree in fashion from Ryerson University. He is also director of the upcoming streetwear documentary called The 1270 Tour. Rajendran recently came back from a 70-day long trip, having visited 12 countries to meet with different streetwear and fashion connoisseurs around the globe. His travels have taken him to Paris, Milan, Tokyo, London and Australia. “The documentary targets blog followers between the ages of 15 to 25, to show them that travel, experience and relationships are the foundations of fashion and streetwear. The net only gives so much,” he says. In the next five years, he hopes to open his own creative agency which would allow artists to push

THE Class clown SLAVA PASTUKHOV, 21 COMEDIC/HIP-HOP WRITER “To be a good writer, you need to have a voice,” says 21-year-old Slava Pastukhov. If there’s anyone that has a good one, it’s he. Last year, Pastukhov published his own free e-book entitled Bros & Hoes in Prose, a collection of his writing since he was 17. He got his first gig writing weekly comedy columns for pointsincase.com and developed his skills from there. Currently, you can find Pastukov doing video interviews and writing for a number of websites

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photo || KURT EAGLEMAN

their own forward-thinking ideas in fashion, art or film. Who or what inspires/influences you and what you do? I heard a very good saying when I was doing my undergrad: “Want inspiration? Stare at your lawn.” So creatively, I try to zone out as much as possible to get

inspiration. Any advice to those who want to follow in your footsteps? Don’t follow in my footsteps. Make your own – it’s more fruitful. Remember where you come from and support enthusiasm from younger people who approach you. Be a support, not a barrier.

including hustlegrl.com, brokencool.com, and his own (slavap.com). Pastukhov says he would like to pursue a career in writing, hopefully doing so one day for a major hip-hop related magazine such as Complex or even VICE and The Source. He cites his mom, Chuck Klosterman, Tucker Max and Kurt Vonnegut as his influences. What are some major highlights you’ve experienced in your life thus far? Seeing the number of times my e-book Bros & Hoes in Prose was downloaded, reading the first review of it and being mentioned in Complex magazine. If your house was burning down (God forbid), and you could only take three things with you, what would they be? Henry, my stuffed hippopotamus, my phone charger and . . . I probably wouldn’t want to bring much anyways because I’d be trying to help the rest of my neighbours from their burning apartments.

Do you have any advice for those who want to follow in your footsteps? If you’re funnier than me, then don’t do it. But seriously – find and craft your own [writing] voice and don’t try and be something you’re not. Also, eat your veggies.

THE ENTREPRENEUR TREPANY FALVO, 25 OWNER OF PERT LINGERIE

Dedicated, hardworking and independent best describe Trepany Falvo, owner of PERT Lingerie. Falvo acquired an interest in business at a young age while working for a family friend who owned a lingerie store. During high school and university, Falvo worked retail jobs and gradually made her way up the ranks to managing positions until she felt it was time to fly solo. “I was unhappy working for someone else,” she says. “I figured, why not do this on my own?” Located at 1817 Queen St. E, west of Woodbine Ave., PERT Lingerie, which opened its doors to the public last summer, is paving the way for up-and-coming boutiques within the Queen East area. Although still in its early stages, PERT has gained media attention through NOW Magazine and Falvo is currently working on some new projects. Not bad for your first store, right? What are three things you can’t leave the house without? My Blackberry, any sort of lipstick and shoes. What is your usual Starbucks order? A tall soy green tea latte. Who are your favourite artists at the moment? John Mayer, Rachelle Jordan, Jesse Labelle and Mandippal Jandu.

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THE POET LISHAI PEEL, 25 POET “Poetry is a way of communicating, connecting and reaching out,” says Toronto-based spoken word artist, Lishai. The 25-year-old, who is a household name amongst poets in Toronto, got her start in spoken word two years ago. Since then, Peel has established herself as a powerful, independent and fearless female artist. Her newfound career has allowed her opportunities to travel and perform to audiences big and small, from local gigs, TED Conferences and the Women of the World Poetry Slam. When she’s not onstage, the award-winning poet finds herself involved in youth work and community development, alongside organizations such as UNITY Charity and Elevated Grounds. “A lot of people think that poetry is about stuffy academics; reading Shakespeare, but it’s so raw and it’s so visceral, and it’s such an incredible way to bring human beings together,” says Peel. “I think that’s what has most astonished me about poetry – it’s ability to bridge gaps.” What does poetry mean to you? It’s really not holding back . . . I think all too often in society, we have so many walls around each other that we don’t really know where to start in terms of trying to get to know or trying to be real with one another. But when I’m onstage, I let down all my social barriers and I’m like ‘Let me be real for these three minutes’. What has been your favourite gig thus far? I got sent to the Women of the World Poetry Slam to represent Canada [last year] and then the other week, I was featured in it . . . It’s like a love fest and at one point, I got two people up on the stage to do some interpretive dancing to a dinosaur poem and it was just so much fun.

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THE HUMANITArian

THE VISIONARY

DANIEL FRANCAVILLA, 22 GRAPHIC DESIGNER/FOUNDER OF ACCESS CHARITY

SEAN BROWN, 25 FOUNDER & BRAND DIRECTOR OF THE ART OF REUSE

University life is hard, and finding the time to balance school, work and other activities can be overwhelming. This, however, is not the case for Daniel Francavilla, founder of ACCESS Charity. The 21-year-old graphic design student at OCADU dedicates his free time to running the organization. He began to work in charity and non-profit activism after witnessing the high rates of poverty during a trip to the Dominican Republic in high school. From there, ACCESS Charity was born. Now in its sixth year, ACCESS, a youth run non-profit organization, which gives children in developing countries a chance at education, has helped in countries such as Haiti, and with several local youth leadership projects. They have no plans of stopping there. Within the next year, Francavilla and the ACCESS team are looking to travel to other developing countries, working locally and spreading their message.

At first glance, Sean Brown may look like he just stepped out of a menswear magazine. Little would you know that the 25-year-old is considered one of Toronto’s most noted thrifting enthusiasts. In 2010, Brown founded The Art of Reuse – a thrifting collective. The team travels to thrift and vintage stores within the GTA in search of clothes that they eventually re-sell at their pop-up shops called Interim. To date, the group has opened five pop-up shops, including their first women’s shop earlier this year, and, one in New York last summer. In June, Brown and the team will be traveling to San Francisco to open a men’s pop-up shop, inspired by Ivy League and East Coast elements. As well as being covered by media outlets such as The Globe & Mail and Hypebeast, Brown and the team are looking to expand The Art of Reuse into a global brand synonymous with thrift shopping.

You’re a graphic designer. What’s your favourite font? There’s a font called The Sans. There’s also Helvetica Neue. I can’t really say because it’s controversial to choose a favourite font [laughs], but I really like san serif fonts.

What influences the way The Art of Reuse man or woman dresses? Timelessness, not trend-hopping. I’ve never believed in editors dictating what’s going to be “hot” . . . To me chucks never get old, Docs never get old, a good pair of denim never gets old…Someone who lives outside of trends, who kind of puts themselves together outside of fashion.

How do you manage your time with school, your thesis, and ACCESS? With ACCESS, it’s kind of a passion. If it’s something you really care about, you’ll try to fit it in whenever. What are your words of advice to individuals looking into nonprofit charity work? I know a lot of high school kids who say they want to help out but they never really take the step. The whole thing is to actually do something.

What’s your favourite aspect of thrift shopping? It allows you to discover a lot about yourself, because something in here is just for you. There’s no size runs here. It’s just one thing – you gotta try it on, it’s gotta fit you. It allows you to build your own style. And the biggest thing about thrift is the history behind it. This whole place is just a history lesson. Recycled ideas go hand-inhand with fashion.

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THE FASHIONISTA GRACE CARROLL, 24 FREELANCE FASHION WRITER/PUBLICIST

“I always had an interest in writing and English, but I didn’t necessarily want to study that,” says Grace Carroll. The Torontobased freelance fashion writer and publicist studied at Ryerson University, specializing in Fashion Communication. Through this, Carroll got a feel for Public Relations and went on to intern at Toronto’s Lush Magazine for exposure in writing. From here, Carroll found herself interning at Teen Vogue in New York and eventually packing her bags for London where she landed a gig with ELLE UK. Currently, Carroll holds the title of Fashion Features Editor at Filler Magazine, contributes to Post City Magazine, ELLE Canada as well as Plaid Magazine, and manages her personal fashion/lifestyle/culture blog. Carroll is a firm believer that interning will help you get to where you want to be. “I would push really hard to intern at publications where you want to be. I really think that’s the best experience you can get,” she says.

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What are your most memorable moments of the 90s? Clueless has been my favourite movie of all time. I remember always wearing white t-shirts with a black tank top over it. That was my “Cher” moment [laughs]. Who are you style icons? Definitely my former boss at ELLE UK, Rebecca Lowethorpe. I love Taylor Tomasi Hill, Kate Moss, Chloë Sevigny. Friends of mine too, like Steph from The Coveteur – she has the best closet.

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osie (Rosannagh) MacLennan, 23, began trampoline lessons for the first time when she was just six-years-old. For her, though, it wasn’t as soon as she would’ve hoped. Being the youngest of four siblings, she had to watch from the stands when they were old enough to switch from gymnastics to trampoline, while she wasn’t. “Being the fourth child, she was always trying to keep up with everyone,” says MacLennan’s mom Jane. “She always thought she should be able to do what all the others were doing. Because she was younger, it didn’t matter.” Jane, MacLennan’s dad John, grandmother Jean, and family friend Bob MacDonald speak about how they had her in water-skis at the cottage when she was only 18-months-old. As MacLennan grew, so did her goals. “Rosie was keen on getting into the competitive program,” says Jane, explaining that her brothers had already begun to bounce competitively. At nine years old, she was finally able to. Today, MacLennan is on Canada’s national trampoline team and getting ready to compete in her second Olympic Games taking place this summer in London, England. MacLennan graduated from the University of Toronto in a Health and Physical Education Program. She spread her studies over five years so she would be able to balance school with her rigorous training schedule. MacLennan says she is most excited for the opportunity to represent Canada for the second time. “The whole experience of just watching other sports and seeing other Canadians and cheering them on is really fun too,” she says. “But having the chance to compete in front of such a big crowd, knowing the number of supporters you have – and having the chance to compete at that level – is kind of what you’re working towards.” MacLennan placed second at the annual Trampoline and Tumbling World Championships in Birmingham, England in November 2011. Competitors who place in the top eight spots are guaranteed a spot in the Olympics. MacLennan and her teammates, as well as Olympic medalists Karen Cockburn and Jason Burnett (pictured above), qualified three spots for the Canadian national team. A few weeks before the world championships, MacLennan also attended and placed first at the Pan American Games in Guadalajara, Mexico. She describes the Pan Am Games as the second largest multi-sporting event in the world, after the Olympics. “It’s really a good experience because it’s still in a major stadium and it’s still a bigger crowd, and I guess you get the experience of another multi-sport event before the Games,” she notes. “I think that helped us at World’s because we had really recent experience with the bigger crowd and more pressure in that sense.”

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having the chance to compete in front of such a big crowd knowing the number of supporters you have competing at that level That's what you're working towards

MacLennan trains six-days-a-week to keep herself in top condition for upcoming competitions. She says she trains anywhere from two to seven hours a day, doing a variety of workouts. She is on the trampoline at Skyriders Trampoline Place in Richmond Hill, nine-times-a-week. Twice, she is in a strength and conditioning gym, with one or two intervals on a bike. She also does two sessions of Pilates and takes a ballet class, to help with footwork and calf-strengthening. During her trampoline practices, MacLennan says she begins her training with a warm-up. She then works on drills and technical turns to improve specific skills, or tricks on the trampoline. She also practises different routines and even sets aside times to learn new skills. “When you’re learning a skill at our gym, we have a couple of tools we use, like the belt or the bungee,” she says. “You have really little impact on the tramp so you can kind of manoeuvre in the air and figure out the special awareness of it.” Skyriders’ “Supertramp” is another tool that helps trampolinists work on these tricks, as well as helping to maintain height. According to the Rebound Products’ website, founded by Dave Ross – who is also the coach of the Canadian national trampoline team – the “Supertramp” is a one-of-a-kind 13-by-21-foot trampoline. It was permanently installed at Skyriders in 1990, after it was used for a demonstration at the Reach for the Sky trampoline festival in the mid-1980s. As the Olympic Games get closer, practising routines for the competition becomes more and more important for MacLennan. At the moment, MacLennan says she is 90 per cent certain of the sequences for her qualifying routine and final routine, should she make it that far. “I have a dream routine that I would love to do but I don’t think it’s worth the risk so I’m still kind of working on it in the back of my mind, and if it somehow magically clicks, then I would do that,” she explains. Aiming for the Olympics is something MacLennan has been doing for most of her life. “I wanted to compete in the Olympics like any kid says ‘I want to be an astronaut’,” remarks MacLennan. Her mom, Jane, recalls her daughter writing stories about the Olympics and watching the Games on TV. MacLennan’s goal became a reality and something she really started working towards in 2000, when trampoline first became an Olympic sport. It made its debut as a sport at the summer games in Sydney, Australia. The Canadian team qualified two spots, and the two athletes, Karen Cockburn and Mathieu Turgeon went home with bronze medals. Cockburn is the only trampolinist in the world who has won a medal at every Olympic Games event she has attended, MacLennan says. MacLennan comes from a very athletic family. One of her brothers and her sister managed to make it to the national team, which MacLennan is currently on – until their interests in the sport changed. Her brother had school conflicts and her sister started sailing competitively. Her mother competed in figure skating before having children. Her grandfather and biggest role

model, Lorne Patterson, qualified for the Olympics for gymnastics in 1940. Unfortunately, the Second World War broke out and he was never able to compete. “I was living something that he never really got the chance to,” says MacLennan. Later, when it would be MacLennan’s time to shine during her first Olympic Games in Beijing, her hope was that her grandfather could watch her. Patterson died two weeks before MacLennan would compete in the biggest competition of her life. MacLennan had a huge support system heading into the Beijing Olympics. “We made it a trip to China, so that it could take the pressure off of Rosie,” Jane says. MacLennan came third in the qualification round, allowing her to advance to finals, where she placed seventh overall. “This time around, she plans to practise both routines, so that she can be more confident in that stage of the competition. MacLennan says a lot of her preparation for this summer’s Olympic Games in London comes down to keeping it all in perspective. Her mother and coach give her the same advice: “Your ability as an athlete isn’t really defined by one competition; it’s kind of the whole journey,” says MacLennan. “So if you’re doing it for the right reasons – you’re enjoying training, you’re enjoying what you’re doing – then it takes a lot of pressure off that final outcome of that one competition.” MacLennan is grateful to her parents who made certain that if there was anything she wanted to accomplish, she could. Money is a large issue that can sometimes quash young athletes, notes MacLennan’s mother. “We allowed each child to take each sport to the level they wanted to take it,” she says. “We were fortunate enough to be able to do that. Luckily, trampoline is a relatively cheap sport.” Trampolinists only require a pair of socks, shorts and a T-shirt to practise in, as opposed to other sports like hockey. MacLennan says now that she is older, her family really only travels with her to see the bigger competitions like the Olympics in Beijing. They also plan to be there this summer in London. The Olympics was something MacLennan valued, and it was one of her “ultimate goals,” she tells me; but it was never the reason she continued the sport. “At the end of the day you don’t do the sport to get to the Olympics . . . you do it because it is fun,” says MacLennan. When I ask what she loves about the sport in general, she answers, “Everything. The challenge, exercise, feeling of jumping, exhilaration of learning new things and pushing your limits, the people, [and] the opportunity to travel the world.” Though MacLennan has reached the top, she hasn’t set an end date to competing in the sport she loves. “I believe that there is a lot more in the sport for me, and while I have reached a high level,” she says. “There is so much of that journey still left, more limits to be pushed and heights to be reached.”

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HOT COMMODITY HAS YOGA BECOME TOO POPULAR FOR ITS OWN GOOD? story || AUTUMN LADOUCEUR photos || KERRY GALLAGHER

lose your eyes and clear your mind. Breathe in through your nose, out through your mouth, and stretch. Widely known and practised in the western world since the 1960s, yoga was introduced by various spiritual leaders from the east. Today, it’s hotter than ever. According to a recent article in The New York Times, there are approximately 75,000 yoga instructors across North America. Each June, thousands of yoga practitioners take part in Solstice in Times Square. A series of mass yoga sessions are held in one of the most fabled and frenetic places on earth. Retail stores such as Lululemon, which has 13 outlets in the Greater Toronto Area sell mats, yoga props and athletic wear, as do Old Navy and American Eagle. Many of the products geared to young people. Yoga Journal, which boasts more than a million readers a month, estimates the United States yoga market to be valued in the billions of dollars.

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Ashley McEachern, a 26-year-old assistant manager at Lululemon on Toronto’s Queen St. and professional yoga teacher, says that the retailer’s mission is to help clients live a life beyond mediocrity. “It’s about taking care of one’s body, community, and embracing healthy and happy living,” she says. Lululemon provides shoppers with advice and supplies for yoga practice, and other forms of exercise. Staff members are referred to as “educators” rather than sales people. The Queen St. location even offers free community classes five days a week. Some criticize Lululemon because of high prices and its having joined in the commercialization of yoga, but McEachern says critics are just misinformed. Before she worked for Lululemon, McEachern says the thought of yoga’s commercialization frequently crossed her mind, but she now thinks it’s a good thing.

“No matter how they get there, the more people doing yoga, the better the world,” she says. There are numerous variations of yoga practice. Nude hot yoga classes are held in in Los Angeles and New York, aimed primarily at gay men. There’s also yoga for dogs, and ball yoga. A.C. Bhaktivedanta Swami Prabhupada, influential to yoga, was the first to translate the Hindu spiritual text Bhagavad Gita into English. He spread the tradition of “Bhakti yoga,” a type of practice based on reaching spiritual fulfillment through connecting with internal consciousness and developing a connection with the Hindu God, Krishna. In North America, his influence brought forth the “Hare Krishna” movement. Sri K. Pattabhi Jois introduced North America to“Ashtanga yoga,” better known as “Power yoga”, consisting of a combination of deep breathing and movement. These and other types of yoga practice have since mushroomed into a multi-billion dollar industry. Some question whether yoga’s popularity, with its emphasis on physicality and attendant commercialization, has succeeded in drawing people away from its true essence and spirituality. Yoga was made widely known in North America in the 1960s, after it was embraced by celebrities like The Beatles, who were directly influenced by their experiences speaking with Prudhapada. Songs such as John Lennon’s “Instant Karma” and “Give Peace a Chance” were inspired by Bakti yoga. George Harrison produced two songs about the movement entitled, “The Hare Krishna Mantra” and “My Sweet Lord” as well. Madonna has been practising Ashtanga yoga for 15 years, having started in a bid to get into shape following the birth of her daughter, Lourdes. Madonna says she continues to do it because she believes it has positive effects on her body and mind. Other notables who practise are Sting and Trudie Skyler, who are said to have been doing yoga for 20 years. Jennifer Aniston says it has helped her quit smoking. You might imagine a certain unease and disapproval from oldtime practitioners and spiritual leaders of traditional yoga at its many manifestations. But that’s not the case, according to Mangalarti Devidasi, who leads the Kirtan yoga classes at the Bhakti Lounge in downtown Toronto. Kirtan yoga is an ancient practice that involves physical yoga, as well as chanting a “mantra”, a word in Sanskrit meaning to “free your mind.” Devidasi grew up in India where yoga was as common as eating breakfast, but ironically she didn’t discover her passion for it until she moved to Australia. She says the minute she walked into her first Kirtan class and heard her first Hare Krishna mantra, she was brought to tears, and fell in love. “I don’t think much about these things. We have to focus on the positive. We have to focus on the people who have genuine yoga,” she says when asked how she feels about the Kardashians doing naked yoga on their reality TV show. Devidasi believes our society is based upon commercialism, and therefore commercializes everything. But she also says she doesn’t think yoga is just a passing fad.

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THE EVOLUTION OF YOGA 1960s

1979

1990s 1967

The beginning of the Hare Krishna movement. The Beatles begin to practise yoga.

Bikram Choudhury, millionaire and founder of “hot yoga,” copyrights his first Bikram’s Beginning Yoga Class.

Celebrities such as Sting and Madonna are spotted practising yoga.

“I think there is a future for genuine yoga,” Devidasi says. “I don’t think commercialism stays because it has no basis. I think more and more places like Bhakti Lounge will open up in every town and every city, where people can come and experience genuine yoga.” Anne-Lise Dugas, a young Toronto-based singer-songwriter and volunteer at the Bhakti Lounge, is more critical. “It’s very contradictory that someone would utilize the yogic practice, no doubt looking for some sort of sexual satisfaction. What we’re actually doing is letting go of our material desires, so we’re not actually seeking to satisfy ourselves,” Dugas explains. “This is how we achieve true inner peace.” Shawna Clark, a naturopath at the Forces of Nature wellness clinic at Yonge St. and Eglinton Ave., believes that some are just misinformed about yoga.

WHAT'S YOUR TYPE?

Want to attend a yoga class but aren’t sure what type to go for? Here’s a rundown on different popular types of practice.

HATHA

1967 1999

The first Lululemon store opens.

Primarily based on the alignment of the body, this practice enforces balance physically through strength and flexibility, as well as balancing the mind. There are many offshoots of Hatha yoga, stemming from these key elements, but Hatha is generally slow and relaxing, where others are more physically demanding.

VINYASA

2011

The Kardashians do naked yoga on their reality T.V. series.

Called “Flow yoga,” it’s based on the concept of matching movement with breath. The popular “Sun Salutation” sequence of poses is a good example of this, wherin each move is paired up with an inhale or an exhale. This type of yoga is faster paced for those who want to work hard and break a sweat.

KUNDALINI

2012

More than 100 Lululemon stores and more than 75,000 yoga teachers appear across North America.

This practice is comprised of a series of postures, mantras and breathing exercises, an important aspect being embracing the “supreme energy” in the universe. The postures are based on angles that put pressure on the glands and promote secretion and flow through the body, that is said to help balance brain and gland function.

BIKRAM “For most of the people I know, they are aware of the physical benefits but the spiritual ones are ignored. Yoga was made to prep for meditation. People don’t realize that and so they don’t get the benefits of that aspect,” Clark says. Clark also says the yogic meditation brings the consciousness into the body, clearing the mind, allowing for relaxation and a better understanding of the body. Despite this, Clark remarks that she doesn’t think the separation between the yogic tradition and its religious roots is a bad one. “If it helps somebody be more one with themselves, what does it matter what religion they’re from? Mediation is inherent in our nature,” Clark says. About half of Clark’s clients practice yoga and she recommends it to all those for whom it is appropriate. She says she is passionate about the

“Hot yoga,” traditionally called “Bikram yoga,” is a type of Hatha done in a room heated to 105 degrees. It consists of 26 postures that founder, Yogiraj Bikram Choudhury says, if done properly, are the key to a healthy, happy peaceful life.

IYENGAR What makes this type of yoga different from the others is the use of props like belts and ropes, where most yoga relies on the weight of the body. This type of yoga is said to aid in physical therapy.

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"We live in a world where we are busy... and yoga gives us time to slow down and connect our body and mind" 66 SPRING 2012

way it works in the healing process and helps prevent sickness. “The deep breathing in yoga is a really excellent way to get in ‘rest and digest’ mode. Especially in the western world, where things like heart disease are so prevalent, these kinds of stress relief are really important,” says Clark. Like her, McEarchern believes that yoga is perfect for a society like ours. “We live in world where we are busy, busy, busy and yoga gives us time to slow down and connect our body and mind and it feels good,” McEarchern says. Clark doesn’t think the yoga phenomenon is over, and she isn’t upset by its commercialization. “I hope that [yoga] has a long future. I hope it becomes part of more people’s everyday lives. If yoga as a fad lets people gain health benefits, I don’t have a problem with that.”

FEATURE: SKYE SWEETNAM

Four things you should know about Skye Sweetnam After a long break from her teen idol days, Sweetnam is back with a new name and band. story || ALISHA KARIM-LALJI photos || courtesy of SUMO CYCO

Ten years experience and a Juno nomination in the music industry is a pretty big deal. Especially if you’re only 23-years-old. Skye Sweetnam was a small town girl from Bolton who caught her big break at a hair salon. One of the customers (who was a relative of an entertainment lawyer) overheard Sweetnam’s impromptu performance in front of her grandmother’s hairstylist. Sweetnam quickly acquired a manager and her demo made its way to local producer James Robertson. She often ditched school to work with Robertson on songs that would later appear on her debut album Noise in the Basement, released in 2004. After catching the attention of Capitol Records, who won her over with a wine and dine experience, Sweetnam signed her first contract. She was on her way to becoming a teen pop sensation when she opened for Britney Spears’ Onyx Hotel Tour in 2004. She worked with The Matrix and Tim Armstrong on her album Sound Soldier in 2007. Now, after a prolonged break, Sweetnam is back with a new name and band. CONTINUED ON THE NEXT PAGE >

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WELL, FOR ONE THING, SHE’S NOT 14-YEARS OLD ANYMORE.

“When I released Sound Soldier, I remember my identity was so wrapped up in being this teen pop singer,” says Sweetnam. Then, when she hit 20, she went through an identity crisis, not just with her public image, but as a musician. “So much of my identity was being young, cute and bubbly all the time and I was like ‘I’ve been that since I was 14’,” she says. “I wasn’t sure if that’s what I wanted to do for the rest of my career because there are so many other sides to me.”

SHE HAS A SPLIT PERSONALITY AN ALTER EGO (AND A NEW BAND).

The idea of a new persona was Sweetnam’s way of expressing a side of her that the public hadn’t seen before, without losing her current fan base. She joined her new band, Sumo Cyco, with a new name, Sever. “I decided if I give this character a name, I can do whatever I want without getting myself wrapped up in thinking that I am – 24 hours a day – that person,” Sweetnam explains. The band released its singles “Mercy” and “Limp” in 2011. Band members then donated the sales funds to relief efforts in Japan, following the devastating 9.0-magnitude earthquake.

HER MUSIC HAS EVOLVED OVER TIME, LIKE IT OR NOT.

Sweetnam learned early that people listen to a variety of music, not just one genre, and she feels that she basically grew up in front of the world. “You know a lot of people tell me that I’ve changed my style so much and I’m like ‘Well, aren’t you a different person than you were when you were 14?’” She agreed that she’s not exactly the same person she was nine years ago. Although her parents used to buy Top 30 pop CDs for her, Sweetnam currently enjoys listening to female fronted bands. The rock group Animal Alpha is a big influence for Sumo Cyco.

SHE STILL (KIND OF) MAKES HER OWN CLOTHING.

Her fans boast that she makes her own clothes, but Sweetnam sees it differently. “I have a sewing machine, but I’ve never really learned how to sew,” she notes. Instead, Sweetnam uses extra-large T-shirts of her favourite bands, and shreds them up to create new outfits. She still enjoys accessorizing, often in eccentric ways. “The other day I stuck a bunch of old toys and weird key chains onto my shoes [laughs].”

So much of my identity was being young, cute and bubbly all the timE. Quick Q&A with Skye: WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE PIECE OF CLOTHING? > “This big furry hat that I got recently. I’ve worn that every single day this winter.”

WHAT CAN’T YOU LEAVE HOME WITHOUT? > “I would say my iPod.”

WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE FOOD? > “Chocolate chip cookies. It always has been.”

FOR THE FULL INTERVIEW WITH SKYE SWEETNAM VISIT THE EMERGE WEBSITE AT WWW.EMERGEMAGAZINE.CA

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MUSIC

ENTERTAINMENT *p.70

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ideo games

ovies

book

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IN THIS SECTION: EMERGE writers preview the season’s hottest music, books, video games and movies. From pop icons to local artists, find out which albums will have you toe-tapping. Spring’s new book releases meanwhile focus on families, magic, mystery, sex and crime. Discover games that have taken the traditional action and combat formula, and tweaked it for a new crop of fans. Get the lowdown on the latest movie magic, from love stories to superheroes and fairytales. Revisit film’s most iconic characters and stories – except, this time, with unexpected twists. EMERGE unveils what entertainment has in store. Then, it’s up to you to explore, hit play, and turn the page.

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music // MELANIE FIONA The MF Life Melanie Fiona, Canadian R&B artist, is set to release her second studio album, The MF Life, this Spring. The record features collaborations with Nas, J Cole, T-Pain, and John Legend. Fiona is signed wit labels Title 9, SRC, and Universal Republic. Hip-hop beat makers Rico Love and Salaam Remi produced various tracks on the new album. Fiona’s lead single, “Gone and Never Coming Back,” peaked at number 37 on American R&B charts. Her second single, “4 AM,” was released to urban radio stations in August 2011, where it hit the number 23 spot. - M.S.

NICKI MINAJ Pink Friday: Roman Reloaded

MADONNA (MDNA) She may be 53, but Madonna’s 12th studio album entitled MDNA proves that music can be fun at any age. Notable DJs Benni Benassi, Martin Solveig and William Orbit produced the 12-track record. Madonna collaborated with hip-hop artists Nicki Minaj and MIA on her first single, “Give Me All Your Luvin’,” which was also performed at the 2012 year’s NFL Super Bowl halftime show. After 11 albums associated with Warner Bros. Records, Madonna signed a new deal with Live Nation Entertainment and Interscope Records. The highly anticipated halftime show last February didn’t disappoint, luring 114 million viewers. Party rockers LMFAO and singer and The Voice judge Cee-Lo Green also performed. Despite it being a Vogue-dancing and talent filled night, Madonna’s guest MIA managed to stir up some controversy when she swore and stuck up her middle finger midperformance. The NFL later apologized for the unexpected situation, saying she never did it in rehearsals. The single has elements of an upbeat pop anthem, and adds a different dimension to Madonna’s music arsenal. She recently released “Girls Gone Wild,” the second single off MDNA. The track has a slightly more electronic vibe compared to “Give Me All Your Luvin’,” guaranteed to be one of this summer’s club bangers. The two MDNA singles are just a sneak peek into a new dimension of Madonna’s music. - Megan Santos

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Pink Friday: Roman Reloaded, is Minaj’s second album. The Young Money, Cash Money princess released two promotional tracks titled “Roman in Moscow” and “Stupid Hoe” last December, which received negative feedback. “Stupid Hoe” was criticized for its music video, directed by Hype Williams, in which a hip-gyrating Minaj is featured in colourful leopard-print. The lead single, “Starships,” premiered on Ryan Seacrest’s radio show on Valentine’s Day. And released on iTunes the same day. At the end of February, she released Roman Reloaded, which features her Young Money boss, Lil’ Wayne. The single, produced by Rico Beats, has a completely different vibe compared to “Starships.” Its hard-hitting sound, mixed with pounding drums and welltimed gunshots show Minaj’s tough girl side. - M.S.

books // In One Person by John Irving This first person book explores the life of a 60-year-old bisexual man who struggles with his attraction to men, women and transgendered individuals. The main character, Billy Abbot, tries to change until he considers himself “worthwhile.” Billy’s life as someone considered a “sexual suspect,” by both the gay and straight communities, is examined in Irving’s book, from his adolescence in the 1950s through the AIDS epidemic of the 1980s, to the present. Irving says In One Person, his 13th book, is his most political since A Cider House Rules. It is also a tribute to his friends and family. The book explores nascent unreturned desires, love, loss, secrecy, and what it means to be different. As Billy says in the novel, “We are formed by what we desire,” and this novel shows his struggles to come to terms with this truth. The novel both describes several eras in American culture and is an intimate portrait of a solitary man who struggles with self-acceptance. More than a book about politics, is the story of one man discovering his identity. - Laura Fixman

Thirteen by Kelley Armstrong It has been 10 years and a dozen novels since Kelley Armstrong introduced us to the Women of the Otherworld. They are a collection of werewolves, witches, vampires, necromancers and halfdemons trying to fit in the human world. Thirteen is the novel that ties all these stories together and brings them to a thrilling conclusion. Savannah Levine, a half-demon, half-witch, was first heard from as a scared teen held captive. In Thirteen, she is older and wiser and uses inner strength to save the world. Hellhounds, genetically modified werewolves and every conceivable creature, join the war that will decide the fate of the world. For those who already love the series, the book brings back all the characters you’ve grown to know over the course of the last 12 books, For those new to the Otherworld, this book is a perfect introduction to the world of magic. Thirteen will be released on July 24. Expect kick-ass women like those on Buffy the Vampire Slayer, mixed with the intrigue and mystery of True Blood. - L.F.

Lone Wolf by Jodi Picoult

Who decides when to take someone off life support? Do the benefits of organ donation outweigh the costs of hastening the death of another? Jodi Picoult addresses these questions in her new book Lone Wolf. Edward Warren hasn’t seen his father Luke, famous for living in the wild with a pack of wolves, in years. His sister Cara blames her brother for their parents’ divorce and is confident a miracle will return him back to the vibrant and dynamic man he once was. When Luke dies as result of an accident, Cara is suspicious that her brother’s attempts to donate their father’s organs are an act of revenge. The two disagree on which is the most moral decision. Cara and Edward both wonder if their father loved his wolves more than them. Luke hunted with his wolf pack, slept with them, howled with them, and was eventually accepted as one of them. Are you looking for a tear-jerker that confronts tough moral questions? This book is perfect. - L.F.

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video games // RESIDENT EVIL: Operation Raccoon City Forget standstill third-person shooting and forget having only one partner. Forget everything you know about Resident Evil because Resident Evil: Operation Raccoon City is turning the formula on its head. Used to one partner? Try four. Operation Raccoon City will have you playing on one of two squads. The first is a team of Umbrella agents entering the infected area of Raccoon City to contain the T-virus outbreak. The other includes members of Echo Six, sent by the United States government to investigate the outbreak. Members of each squad have his or her own specialty, like VECTOR’s stealth run and SPECTRE’s enhanced vision. Instead of just dying, bitten players may end up becoming zombies themselves, losing control of their character and attacking fellow squad mates. Eradicate the witnesses and contain the infection on your Xbox 360, Playstation 3 and PC. - Lucas Archer

KID ICARUS: Uprising

MAX PAYNE 3

After an 11-year absence, Nintendo’s guardian angel Pit makes his triumphant return. Having only appeared in brief cameos, before his inclusion in the mascot mash-up Super Smash Bros. Brawl, this will be Pit’s first starting role in a game since the days of Game Boy. Pit battles the reborn Medusa and her army of creatures from the underworld across land and air while also dealing with the presence of his doppelgänger Dark Pit. Uprising is an action game combining elements of on-rail shooters with in-the-air and hack-and-slash/third person shooter combat on the ground. The fast-paced environment will have you dodging through waves of enemies and trying to escape lasers and missiles. You can pick up Kid Icarus: Uprising now, exclusively for your Nintendo 3DS. - L.A.

Having been originally planned for release in 2009, the ‘father of bullet-time combat’ is making a comeback with Max Payne 3. Judging by the trailers Rockstar Games has released, the game bears little resemblance to its predecessors. Surely, bullet-time makes its return, allowing you to see every bullet and its impact on the enemy. The game also brings back Payne’s habit of diving around the screen in said bullet-time. This time around, Rockstar blends the over-the-top combat animations with realistic physics, so Payne manoeuvres according to his surroundings. Max Payne 3 will also feature more cinematic action with interactive cut-scenes and slo-mo hand-to-hand combat, following the trend of current generation games mimicking the Uncharted series. Max Payne 3 dives onto store shelves for your Xbox 360, Playstation 3 and PC. - L.A.

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movies //

THE AVENGERS Starring: Robert Downey Jr., Chris Evans, Mark Ruffalo, Chris Hemsworth, Scarlett Johansson, Jeremy Renner, Tom Hiddleston, Stellan Skarsgard and Samuel L. Jackson. Based on the popular Marvel comic book series The Avengers, this movie is packed with the usual superhero action excitement, except in 3D. This film pulls all Marvel superheroes together.

The roster features iconic characters Iron Man (Robert Downey Jr.), The Incredible Hulk (Mark Ruffalo), Thor (Chris Hemsworth), Captain America (Chris Evans), Hawkeye (Jeremy Renner) and Black Widow (Scarlett Johansson). They team up to save the world from disaster with S.H.I.E.L.D. Director Nick Fury (Samuel L. Jackson), to fight the out-of-control Norse deity Loki (Tom Hiddleston). - Melanie Ravka

BRAVE Starring the voices of: Kelly Macdonald, Emma Thompson, Kevin McKidd, Craig Ferguson and Julie Walters. An animated princess comes to theatres yet again in Brave. This time, however, she is not the typically helpless Disney character. A Scottish redhead named Merida (Kelly Macdonald) defies custom and unleashes chaos upon the kingdom, then must fight to undo an evil curse. Brave, Pixarâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first fairytale is darker and more mature than previous movies, and, for the first time, it features a female protagonist. - M.R.

THE LUCKY ONE Starring: Zac Efron, Taylor Schilling and Blythe Danner. Another novel by Nicholas Sparks has been turned into a chic flick. This one is based on destiny and the drive to find the one woman who has given a soldier hope of survival. Zac Efron plays the strong, silent type who has been on three tours in Iraq. On the last tour, he finds a photograph of a woman in the rubble. Driven by a compulsion to discover who the woman in the photo is (Taylor Schilling), he works to find her and thank her, which eventually leads to love. Of course, there is a tearworthy twist that destroys their relationship, but what good romance doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t involve heartbreak? - M.R.

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MINI MAG (P. 78) ANSWERS: 1. Thirteen: A battle between supernatural races for the fate of the world || 2. The Hunger Games: A fight to the death on live TV || 3. The Lucky One: A man searches for his unknown true love after returning from war

OPINION shining, shimmering, expensive

story || LEVIANA COCCIA photo || JANINE ANTOLIN

et’s go see this movie,” is commonly tossed around my household. But with illegal streaming, we often watch poor quality videos through fingerprints, stains and dust on my 13-inch MacBook. When someone ends that phrase with, “in 3D,” bags are quickly packed with stale treats. The thought of a higher ticket price then crosses my mind, prompting me to grab my debit card. Lately, the 3D movies we escape to are re-releases by Disney — blasts to the unforgettable past of a 90s child. When the original films were my sole form of movie entertainment during the days of half-day kindergarten and morning cartoons. “[These re-released 3D movies] expose the children of this generation to how cartoons used to be when we were younger,”

"Either we're simply in love with our childhoods or we're too engulfed in consumerisM" Janine Antolin, a college animation graduate, says. “Now, several film companies just pump out mediocre plots.” Nostalgia may not be Disney’s only incentive. The largest media conglomerate is money-smart when it comes to re-releasing animated films in 3D, but even more intelligent for making The Lion King its guinea pig. The Lion King in 3D grossed close to $100 million in September 2011, making its Domestic Lifetime Gross more than $420 million. Beauty and the Beast in 3D grossed almost $42 million this January. I feel about these movies the same way I do about going to Canada’s Wonderland and breaking the bank to stay hydrated. Eli Glasner, arts reporter for CBC TV and film reviewer says, “I detest 3D. It’s needless, distracting and annoying.” What does that make those of us who pay more to relive storylines we can recite without a script? Either we’re simply in love with our childhoods or too engulfed in consumerism. Who couldn’t love a life of Hakuna Matata and promiscuous feather dusters in 2D? Adding a third dimension must make these classic tales look like gold. Right? Glasner said the conversion from Beauty and the Beast’s classic animation to 3D “wasn’t that dramatic,” adding some characters are just in the foreground, floating over the background. Instead of looking as flawless as an expensive metal, these 3D

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re-releases are sprinkled with modern fairy dust, while the company continues to stack its pile of gold bricks à la Pirates of the Caribbean. “It’s strictly a business decision,” Glasner says. “. . . for as little as $10 million, [Disney] can spend the money and make more of it.” Finding Nemo in 3D is coming to theatres next September – something Glasner says he is surprised wasn’t done in the first place, but a logical move “because [the film] was computer animated and visually terrific to begin with.” The Little Mermaid follows in 2013. Glasner says he doesn’t want to see some Disney classics like Bambi or Dumbo because, “we need to draw the line somewhere” and I have to agree. If Disney were to decide to re-release every film, then before I know it, my hypothetical children could witness Barney the 3D dinosaur instead of something new and innovative. “Right now, it’s just new so people are excited to see the films in 3D. But, it is going to die out really quickly,” Antolin says. No Disney representatives were able to comment at this time, so I leave the company with this: Please stop dig-dig-dig-digging for diamonds.

Commuting OP ED The Weirdos on the Bus Go Round and Round

story || KATIE DUNCAN

’ve learned in my two years worth of traveling between Guelph and Toronto via Greyhound that there is one thing you should never do while commuting. My mother would cringe at the thought of what I’m about to tell you, but hindsight being 20/20, I wish someone would have warned me to never, ever offer a stranger more help than you’re willing to give. Actually, allow me to rephrase. Never offer to help. Ever. Last September, a man approached me at the Greyhound station in Guelph asking directions to the American ConsulateGeneral in Toronto. For reasons still unknown to me, I offered to Google map his coordinates. I must admit, even this was pushing my general niceness at 5:30 a.m. Needless to say, I found what he was looking for. Conversation over, yes? Not according to him. In the time it would probably take Rob Ford to climb all the way to the top stairwell of Toronto City Hall (the same amount of time it takes to get from Guelph to Toronto by bus), I had learned this man’s life story. This included that he was from Ethiopia, and probably only knew that one word in English. Make that two words: he also knew the word penis and continued to spout off about his for about an hour. Not too many other stories I’ve heard come close to this one, with the exception of Toronto’s own “TTC screwers”, who insisted on having sex this winter on the subway. The point is, there is invariably a ton of people you will meet while you’re commuting and this bit of warning will not only save your time, but in my case, your breakfast. In honour of our phallic friend above, let’s start with talkers. I don’t mean your everyday, eye rolling, ‘Hey, how’s it going?’ types. I mean the ones that begin with personal details and never stop once they’ve caught your gaze. This moment is crucial. Once you’ve made eye contact, there’s no going back. I personally like to mercilessly point at my headphones and fane disappointment that I can’t carry on the meaningless conversation they were hoping to have. The next is a personal favourite of mine because it offers the only form of entertainment in Toronto that early in the morning, without having to stand outside of the Zanzibar. They vary in size, and I don’t mean the people. Instead, I refer to the endless

slew of belongings that they deem themselves important enough to bring to work everyday. These people come with more baggage than Charlie Sheen on tiger blood, but without all the “winning”. Instead, they give you whining, mostly because there isn’t a seat strong enough for all of their crap. I call them sluggers because of the inevitable swing to the groin they give other passengers who get in their way of a free seat. It should be noted that this also qualifies as entertainment, so long as it’s not you. For Greyhound and Go riders, I give you next, the regulars. These are demanding little jerks who assume they should be served first regardless of the fact that we all pay the same going rate. I personally love standing in line for an hour only to see those last minute priority boarders show up to stake claims on prime seating. They’re the ones with heated blankets and neck pillows who pretend to be asleep, as other unlucky passengers move on. What makes it worse is, regulars know all of the other regulars. They save seats for each other and talk so loudly that it’s impossible to curl up against the window to avoid dying of exhaustion. By far the worst, though, are the ones who look absolutely normal. Even they can pack a powerful punch, and I don’t mean with their luggage. These are the folks I like to call the odour ogres. The smell sneaks up on you like the Pink Panther. You frantically look at your watch to determine how long you can survive the watering eyes and gag reflex in the back of your throat. It’s enough to make sure you never judge another book by its perfectly pressed suit cover again because the truth is just lurking beneath. Finally, we come to the ingrates. These are the types, particularly for Greyhound riders, who request stops that do not exist on the route. The bus is not a cab, people. It will not drop you off at your preferred destination, nor does it end at your front door. The worst part is that once an ingrate has requested a stop, it gives way to more requests from other riders. If your face doesn’t literally resemble that of a troll face from the online comics by the time you reach downtown, pat yourself on the back. You’ve won this round. Now that you know who you’re looking for, I challenge you dear reader to think; as unfortunate as it is, every person falls into one of these categories. The real question, aside from how the hell am I going to survive the smell of the guy sitting next to me, which category do you fall under?

. . . [Regulars are the] ones with heated blankets, neck pillows and bags foisted on the seat beside Them who pretend to be asleep as other unlucky passengers move on.

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"O.Noir" > CONTINUED FROM PAGE 11

asked us to form a line, and place our left hand on the left shoulder of the person in front of us. There was no turning back. I was guided through a pitch-black room, with nothing but a shoulder to hold on to. Luckily, I didn’t have to go far. My table was fairly close to where (I think) we entered. Victor described what was on the table in front of us, and retreated. I laughed. “What are we doing here?!” I asked my friend. I made funny faces and waved my hands everywhere, amused at the thought I was the only one who knew what I was doing. It was then I realized that facial expressions and lip reading is often taken for granted. Focusing on one single voice in a loud, dark room is a lot harder than you would expect. “Hello!” said Victor in greeting. When you don’t know it’s coming, it can be scary. “Ashlee, I have a glass of water for you – please take it from my hand.” It took me a second, but I found it, and put it down without spilling – second success of the night. He then brought drinks to the couple sitting two tables down, who were loud and just as amused as myself and my friend. Until suddenly…They went quiet. For 20 minutes. Very low whispers, and what I think may have been slight moans are the only sounds they uttered. Oh my gosh, this cannot be happening. My dinner guest and I laughed as we talked about pulling our phones out and flashing a bright light on them to reveal what was inevitably taking place. I even joked about turning this article into an O.Noir exposé. “Victor, could we get more napkins?” the man shouted from his table. I had a chicken breast with a side of potatoes and green beans, while my friend, who is vegetarian, chose the pasta with tomato sauce (the only vegetarian option, by the way).

This part was the tricky one. How do you know if the meal you ordered is the one sitting in front of you? “The entire chain of staff is responsible to make sure the food we bring is what they ordered,” said Jianrong Feng, the owner of O.Noir. “It’s a transfer of trust between the customer and us.” My friend volunteered to be the brave one, and took the first bite. It was important they did not mistakenly bring her a meat dish. “I just ate a frog leg. Oh my god, I just ate a frog leg,” she squealed. Unsure of what was actually in her mouth, she imagined the worst. “Oh . . . it’s just penne,” she realized. Not everyone is that lucky. “Once in a while, we still make some mistakes,” said Feng. “The probability of mistakes is very low, though, because [the servers] do memorize and they’re talented.” O.Noir also offers surprise dishes, which 10-20 per cent of the clientelle chooses. The chicken dish was good – not too salty, not too dry. They were sure to cut up the chicken breast prior to serving it, too, which was nice. That didn’t seem to do much for me, though, as I had great difficulty locating the food with my fork and finding my mouth afterwards. So I did what any elegant lady would do, and used my hands. They were soon covered in tomato sauce, and spices from

Courtesy

76 SPRING 2012

the potatoes, but I could not, for the life of me, get a hang of coordinating the movement without light. I’m a charmer, I know. Not to mention, I have a newfound appreciation for the sight-impaired and everything they are able to do seemingly effortlessly. Dining in the dark is not for everybody, but I recommend everyone tries it at least once. “It’s an eye-opening experience for them [customers],” said Victor, who has been working at O.Noir for three years. “It creates awareness differently, increases the understanding.” He explained that when you cannot see, it’s natural to become more aware of your other senses. He noticed this change when he began going blind at the age of eight. The other servers are also visually impaired, and use memorization to find their way through the dining room. “The servers we have are very talented,” said Feng. “We need three people to do one person’s job, yet we do not lose time or efficiency.” The other two positions are the order taker, who is also the bartender, and the runner, who brings the food to the server, tells him or her what it is and where it is going. Overall, I would give this experience a 4 out of 5. The dinner lasted roughly two hours, which is a little long, but it’s definitely worth the time and money.

"In the Shadows" > CONTINUED FROM PAGE 17

“We couldn’t keep up with other SlutWalk cities,” Jarvis says. She identifies fragmentation and lack of dialogue as shortcomings. Though she says the SlutWalk was never meant to be sustainable, there may be plans going forward for another event. No Vacancy for Toronto Occupiers: With Slutwalk experiencing division among its followers, and Occupy Toronto campers sent home earlier this year, activists say they are biding their time. “A lot of people are getting disillusioned,” says Occupy supporter and documentary filmmaker, Nadim Fetaih. “Everyone knows it’s going to get a lot worse before it gets better. People hit the streets when they have nothing to lose.” Occupy Toronto activists have been attempting to consolidate with other movements around the world. The

Occupy Toronto website has a packed events calendar listing. With a continuous growth of diversity in activist movements, protestors and supporters are disgruntled at their portrayal in the media. In the past, mainstream news outlets depicted protestors as ragged and flustered in photos. When the cold weather arrived last November, CTV News published a story saying negative media portrayal of occupiers “may have caused the crackdown by authorities on the movement.” The reality of activism in Toronto today has broadened to encompass more than just displaced occupiers. The original initiatives of last year triggered activist actions within a number of cultural groups. Community leaders have reached out to their counterparts in other countries to create consolidated, global protests. The Congolese Movement: On a grey, damp day last February, members of the Congolese community in Toronto, along with a few Occupy supporters, gathered

in the hundreds at Queen’s Park in solidarity with other Congolese around the world. There was no fragmentation here, with communication via telephone and e-mail, showing unity in a fight against political corruption, and exploitation of the country’s people and resources. “Corporations are getting richer! Why?” asked Congolese community spokesman Freddy Kabongo. He is passionate and loud, as were many of the protestors. He talked about why the community came out, about how Canadian officials needed to admit their role in the exploitation of Third World countries by not putting economic pressure on dictators and corrupt foreign politicians. The shivering, chanting group was one example of how last winter’s activist movements continue to express themselves. And there was an increasing number of groups within Toronto coming together to voice issues specific to them. Winter challenged activists but did not still them. There is a boiling brook of plans to continue the revolutionary wave into the summer.

Elena Maystruk

EMERGE 77

mini-mag

VENA AMORIS Engagement rings are often worn on the fourth finger of the left hand. The ancient Greeks maintained that this finger contained the ‘vena amoris,’ or ‘the vein of love,’ that runs straight to the heart. The first recorded wedding rings originated in ancient Egypt, with the circle representing eternity as well as the powerful sun and moon deities.

LIES & A TRUTH

1) What is Thirteen? • A battle between supernatural races for the fate of the world • Teen girls dealing with peer pressure • A man is haunted by the number in the year 2013 • A re-make of the 2003 movie thriller of the same name 2) What are The Hunger Games? • An annual eating contest • Jumanji-esque board game that devours the players • A fight to the death on live TV • Dieting gone wrong 3) What is The Lucky One? • A woman wins $20 million in a lottery • A man searches for his unknown true love after returning from war • A pair of leprechauns search for their pot of gold • A girl wishes on some fairy dust to fast forward to a better part of her life Answers on PAGE 73

78 SPRING 2012

WHAT IS IT? The pope has it but he does not use it Your father has it but your mother uses it Nuns do not need it Arnold Schwarzenegger has a big one Michael J. Fox’s is quite small Answer: A Last Name

By Melanie Ravka

SUMMER OLYMPICS

WEIRD YOGA Some of the strangest looking yoga poses and names we’ve seen

1896: The first Olympics were in Athens. Canada did not compete. 1976: Montreal hosted the only Canadian Summer Olympics and Canada didn’t win a single gold medal. 1984: In Los Angeles, Canada won its most medals ever, with 10 gold out of a total of 44 that year. 2012: London will be hosting its third Summer Olympics - the most by any country. 2016: The Summer Olympics will be hosted by Brazil - the first time a South American country will have ever hosted.

Left: Intense spread-leg pose Right: One-legged king pigeon pose.

Check out a Canadian trampolinist that’s heading to the 2012 Olympics on PAGE 60

You Might Be A 90s Baby If... • You played Pogs until they got banned in your school “for gambling” • You can finish this: “ice ice _ _ _ _” • You can name each of the original Power Rangers • You saw Titanic in theatres the first time • You got up early on a Saturday morning just to watch cartoons • You always wanted to send in a tape to America’s Funniest Home Videos...but never taped anything funny • You had a survival kit for Y2K • You had a Tamagotchi and did everything you could to keep it alive • You remember Dolly, the first cloned sheep

THE A-MAZE-ING RACE:

Help Mayor Rob Ford find the elusive ice-cream cone.

Convocation 2012

10:00 a.m. Convocation Ceremony Kinesiology Media Studies Psychology Reception to follow 1:00 p.m. Convocation Ceremony Business Reception to follow 4:00 p.m. Convocation Ceremony Computing Early Childhood Family and Community Social Services Justice Studies Reception to follow

Guests Graduates will receive three guest tickets by early June. If you wish to be put on a waiting list for additional tickets, please e-mail your name, program, student number, phone number, and number of extra tickets required to graduate@guelphhumber.ca by Friday, May 25, 2012. We will distribute any extra tickets through a lottery system beginning Monday, June 4, 2012. Gowns Graduates are required to rent their gowns. Gown rental early bird price: $20 Please reserve your gown now by visiting: guelphhumber.ca/graduates/convocation.

For more information or to reserve your gown, visit

www.guelphhumber.ca/graduates/convocation

guelphhumber.ca

Renée Weekes Media Studies graduate, 2006 Founder & Managing Director, Strata Public Relations

“The practical aspect of my courses prepared me to navigate the dynamics of the media industry.”