Wild Atlantic Way 2018 by guerinmediaireland

Wild Atlantic WAY

The Wild

Slí an Atlantaigh Fhiáin

Atlantic Way Slí an Atlantaigh Fiáin

IRELAND'S WILD ATLANTIC WAY Welcome to the longest defined coastal drive in the world which showcases the rugged beauty of the West Coast of Ireland. The route stretches along the coastline of nine amazing counties from Cork to Donegal , providing you with an adventure you will always remember. This captivating journey will make you fall in love with our beautiful harbours and sandy beaches and the myriad of historical attractions and scenic viewing points. We only hope that our guide can in some way help you appreciate this natural wonder of the world.

“If you go too fast, you miss what’s special about anywhere.” DISCLAIMER: While every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of information provided herein, Guerin Media is not responsible for any loss or injury that result of same. The views expressed are those of the contributors and do not in any way represent that of our advertisers or of Guerin Media.

Flying Boats

Arbutus Breads

Safety

Tourist Offices

Cork Cheese Makers

ree

Cork Roadtrip

Kerry Roadtrip Smashing Pots

For The Love Of Wood Limerick City

CLARE

Art In Stone

Open Hearts

LIMERICK

KERRY

CORK

Outdoor Events

Passion Food

DISCOVER

INTRO

Irish Thatched Cottages Clare Roadtrip Living Long Bows

226

DERRY

212

DONEGAL

200

LEITRIM

186

SLIGO

160

MAYO

GALWAY

124

Arann Islands

Of Metal And Heat

Irish Seashore

Foraging in Leitrim

A Turning Tide

Shipwrecks of Ireland

Connemara

Children Of Lir

Stones Of The Ancients

Folklore and Fairies

Donegal Turf Smoked Salmon

Walking Among Giants

Oysters Thinking In English

Invaders Of Ireland

Tonn MarcaÃocht Surfing

Ways of Walking

Fishing in Ireland

The Derry Brewer

PASSION FOOD Meet some of the local artisan food producers who are bringing magic to your plate, and capturing the unique taste of Ireland’s western shores.

Through our passion for good food, we come to create a better world. The food we eat is our connection to our environment and mother nature. This relationship for all of us is primal and intimate – what we eat keeps us alive. At a wholly fundamental level, when our hearts lead, though our pleasure for flavoursome health giving foods – we ignite a storm for change. Those of us who are passionate food activists recognise that to have good food we need to keep our environment free of pollution, we need to treat our animals with respect, and we need to treat all our farmers well – championing the tenderness of our small scale producers. In these pages you will meet some of the exciting initiatives of local artisan producers, foragers and passionate food advocates who breath the air along Ireland’s western coast. Learn about some of Ireland’s famous foods, from our oysters to local cheeses, seaweeds and the secret healing of the Irish honeybee. Don’t miss a chance to celebrate and meet these local food heroes at one of the many Irish Food Festivals. Travelling along the Wild Atlantic, where the fresh sea salty air is sure to give you an appetite – know that when you go to eat you are sure to be in good hands.

“A Passion for Wild Atlantic Nourishment”

Tourist Offices Addressses emails and telephone number By Region

Time to make a change Cork Kerry

Clare Shannon Heritage Tourist Office

Kinsale Tourist Office

Valentia Island Tourist Office

3 Pearse St, Sleveen, Kinsale, Co. Cork

No 2 Watch House Cottages

Phone: +353 (021) 477-2234

Phone: + 353 (066) 947 6985

Ballyhennessy, Co. Contae an Chláir

Cliffs of Moher Tourist Office Lislorkan North, Liscannor, Co. Clare

Bantry The Old Courthouse, The Square, Bantry, Co. Cork Phone: +353 (027) 50229

Phone: +353 (065) 708 1171 Mid-Kerry Tourist Office Library Place, Iveragh Rd, Castleconway, Killorglin, Co. Kerry. Phone: +353 (066) 976 1451

Skibbereen

Dingle

North Street, Gortnaclohy, Skibbereen, Co. Cork.

Dingle road, Dingle, Co. Kerry.

Phone: + 353 (028) 21766

Phone: +353 (066) 915 1188

Tralee Tourist Office Clonakilty – Discover Ireland Office 25 Ashe St, Scartagh, Clonakilty, Co. Cork. Phone: +353 (023) 883 3226

Castletown Beara Cametringane, Castletown Beara, Co. Cork. Phone: +353 (027) 70054

Ash Memorial Hall, 18 Denny Street, Tralee, Co. Kerry V92 K500 Phone: +353 (066) 712 1288

Heritage Centre, Corofin, Co. Clare. , V95 VX83. Phone: +353 (065) 682 7693

Ennis Tourist Office Arthur's Row, Ennis, Co. Clare Phone: +353 (065) 682 8366

Galway Galway Tourist Office Forster St, Galway City, Co. Galway

Killarney Discover Ireland Centre

Phone: +353 (091) 537 700

Beech Road, Monearmore, Killarney, Co. Kerry. Phone: +353 (064) 663 1633

Aran Island Tourist Office Inis Mor Fire Station, Cill Éinne, Aran Islands, Co. Galway.

Limerick Tarbert Bridwell Visitor Centre N67, Tieraclea Lower, Co. Kerry Phone: +353 (068) 36500

Burren National Park Information Centre

Phone: +353 (099) 61263

Mayo Cong Tourist Information Office

Deirbhile Blacksod

Inishowen Tourism

An Cartúr, Blacksod, Co. Mayo

Railway Rd, Ballymacarry Lower, Buncrana, Co. Donegal.

Phone: +353 (097) 85728

Old Courthouse, Abbey Street, Cong North, Cong, Co. Mayo

Ionad Domhnann Belmullet

Phone: +353 (094) 954 6542

The Docks, Belmullet, Co. Mayo Phone: +353 (097) 81500

Croagh Patrick Visitor Centre Ballina Tourist Office

Phone: +353(098) 64114

41 Pearse Street, Abbeyhalfquarter, Ballina, Co. Mayo. Phone: +353(096) 72800

Bridge St, Cahernamart, Westport, Co. Mayo Phone: +353 (098) 25711

Killibegs Information Centre Shore Road, Cashelcummin, Killybegs, Co. Donegal Phone: +353 (074) 973 2346

Meermihil, Murrisk, Co. Mayo

Westport Tourist Office

Phone: +353 (074) 936 2600

Derry Giant’s Causeway Visitor’s Centre

Sligo

44 Causeway Rd, Bushmills BT57 8SU, UK Phone: +44 28 2073 1855

Castlebar Tourist Information Office Linenhall St, Gorteendrunagh, Castlebar, Co. Mayo

Sligo Tourist Office ‘O Connell Street, Abbeyquarter North, Sligo.

Phone : +353 (094) 902 1207

Phone: +353 (071) 916 1201

Mulranny Tourist Office

Donegal

Main Street, Mulranny, Co. Mayo Phone: +353 087 383 8550

Bundoran Tourist Information Office The Bridge F94 D274, Bundoran, Co. Donegal

Achill Island Tourist Office Davitt Quarter, Achill Sound, Achill, Co. Mayo, F28 W9N7 Phone: +353 (098) 20400

Phone: +353 (071) 984 1350

Falcarragh Visitors Centre Falcarragh, Letterkenny, Co. Donegal Phone: +353 (074) 918 0888

SAFETY CONSIDERATION WHEN YOU ARE HEADING FOR THE HILLS

GET OUT THERE! “12 events that will help you suck the marrow from the Wild Atlantic Way!”

In Ireland we are spoilt for choice when it comes to the abundance of outdoor events happening across the country every weekend. From cycling races and triathlons to adventure races, there’s something out there for everyone. And we reckon there is no better spot to take on these amazing events than along the Wild Atlantic Way. The combination of invigorating sea air and the feeling of crossing a finish line means you’ll be walking on air for weeks afterwards. To give you a steer in the right direction, Roisin Finlay from Outsider magazine, has compiled a list of her favourite events along the Wild Atlantic Way this summer. Roisin Finlay is editor of Outsider magazine, Ireland’s adventure magazine. To subscribe, visit: www.outsider.ie/subscribe or follow at www.facebook.com/outsidermag

www.leavenotraceireland.org

Race2Glory Sport Ireland Tour de Burren See one of the most spectacular parts of the Wild Atlantic Way in all its glory by taking part in this fun-filled cycling event through the Burren in Co Clare. There are four route options, 152km, 104km, 62km and the 10km family loop event, so there’s no excuse not to get involved! As well as the gorgeous scenery, there’s a great atmosphere and locally sourced food. www.tourdeburren.com

Gaelforce West This event offers a 67km course starting on Glassilaun beach in Connemara and ending in Westport town. Cycling, trail running, kayaking across Killary Fjord and climbing Croagh Patrick are all part of this incredible journey which will see you crossing the line with a huge sense of achievement. www.gaelforceevents.com

One of the Outsider team’s favourite races, this 40km event in in Kiltimagh, Co Mayo, has an amazing community atmosphere and will see you run and bike around a course that includes Spankers Hill, the Bog and Craggagh. And you’ll get to splash your way up the Glore River just when your legs are screaming for mercy! If the full event sounds too tough, there’s also a shorter 20km sprint course that may be just the ticket. www.race2glory.com

Frances Thornton Memorial Galway Bay Swim This long-distance event consists of a 13km swim across Galway Bay from Aughinish in Co Clare to the Blackrock Diving Tower in Salthill, Galway. Swimmers have a support boat for feeding and to help with navigation (some swimmers share a boat), and there are solo or relay team options. www.galwaybayswim.com

The Beast The Gleneagle Run Killarney Race With a choice of 10km or half marathon, this race will take you through amazing scenery in Killarney National Park. All participants can avail of well-earned massages, hot tubs and a post-race party. www.runkillarney.com

Women’s Adventure Race, Galway This 27km women-only adventure race is the perfect distance for those new to the sport and a great training race for more experienced athletes. The Galway event takes place around Killary Fjord at Leenane, Co Galway, and includes cycling, running/walking and kayaking. www.gaelforceevents.com

www.leavenotraceireland.org

Over the August Bank Holiday, teams of four will battle it out across some of Donegal’s most challenging terrain in a 40-hour non-stop adventure race. The race, which is self-navigated, will involve kayak, bike, trek and rope sections with a few surprises thrown in along the way! www.thebeast.ie

City Cycle Cork City Cycle Cork is a brand new event for cycling enthusiasts who want to test their mettle on closed roads. With an 80km and 130km route to choose from, it’s open to all levels of cyclist. And those looking to get competitive will be well catered for – the event will include two timed category hill climbs. www.cyclecork.com

Clare Island Singles Weekend Quest Achill With its dramatic mountains, sandy beaches and wild Atlantic coastline, Achill Island is the perfect destination for an adventure race. Take your pick from three routes to suit all fitness levels as you bike, kayak and run around the island. And when youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re done and dusted, kick back and enjoy the famous fancy dress after party which goes on late into the night. www.questachill.com

Gaelforce North With full (64km) and sprint (45km) versions, this running/hill walking, cycling and kayaking event provides a great challenge for all adventure racers. Gaelforce North allows competitors to experience some of the wildest and most remote parts of Donegal, including Glenveagh National Park and Mount Errigal. It finishes in the Gaeltacht village of Bunbeg.

Designed to help active and outdoorsy people meet likeminded folk, this weekend offers activities like coasteering, hiking and beach challenges like building your own raft! During the evenings, there will be set dancing and entertainment in the Sailorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bar. www.clareislandadventures.ie

Quest Killarney The original of the Quest one-day multisport adventure races, this race is now the biggest of its kind in the world. It takes place in the Gap of Dunloe and Killarney National Park and offers no less than five different routes to choose from so there is simply no excuse not to sign up. www.questkillarney.com

www.gaelforceevents.com

â&#x20AC;&#x153;I think it would do the world we live in a great service if we could all tune-in to the intelligence of our hearts more and more of the time.â&#x20AC;? Dr. McElroy is a GP, Hearthmath coach and group facilitator living along the Wild Atlantic Way in Co. Kerry.

PURE AIR, OPEN HEARTS WITH DR. BRYAN MC ELROY

It is well known that the west of Ireland has some of the purest air and most nourishing food available on the planet! Here, Dr. Bryan McElroy encourages us to tune in to our hearts and make the most of the Wild Atlantic experience. Today, statistics state that one in five adults is experiencing mental health issues. It is clear that we need new and innovative ways of dealing with today’s increasing levels of stress, new tools and modes of understanding. There are many challenges that we face in life today, both individually and collectively. I have learned that by moving out of our heads and into our hearts we can begin to make a difference, not only to our own health but that of the world around us. We all have learned to place many demands on our body and mind. Increasing numbers of us are turning to yoga and meditation as healthy ways to alleviate stress. While it may seem romantic to “listen to your heart”, research from the Institute of Heartmath is providing compelling evidence of the benefits of ‘cardiac Coherence’. Heartmath discovered that sustained positive emotions facilitate a whole-body shift in functioning at all levels, marked by a distinct change in heart rhythm, different from relaxation. Cardiac coherence generates increased synchronisation, harmony and efficiency in the interactions between brain, heart, and body. Effects of cardiac coherence include blood pressure regulation, increased levels of oxytocin (bonding hormone) and DHEA (youth hormone), lower cortisol levels (stress hormone), enhanced immunity and optimised cognition - reflection, abstract reasoning, planning and clarity. In other words, tuning in and making a priority to have peace within brings untold health benefits.

When we experience stress or negative emotions, our heart rhythm pattern becomes erratic and disordered. Corresponding non-coherent patterns of neural signals travelling from the heart to the brain inhibit higher cognitive functions. This limits our ability to think clearly, remember, learn, reason, and make effective decisions. This helps explains why we may often act impulsively and unwisely when we’re under stress. In contrast, during positive emotional states a more ordered and stable pattern of the heart’s input to the brain has the opposite effect—it facilitates cognitive function and reinforces positive feelings and emotional stability. Learning to generate increased heart rhythm coherence, by sustaining positive emotions, not only benefits the entire body, but also profoundly affects how we perceive, think, feel, and perform.

Activating Heart Intelligence The human heart has been relegated to a level of importance second to that of the mind or brain, since Descartes pronounced his doctrine “I think, therefore I am”. Today, the Institute of Heart Math is working to change this: “I feel therefore I am” would be a better way to capture the spirit of our age. World renowned spiritual leaders such as Ekhart Tolle and scientists like Bruce Lipton, have been emphasising the limitations of our mind based culture. As Einstein once reminded humanity, “we cannot solve our problems with the same thinking we used when we created them”. When practiced sincerely, these techniques often serve as a catalyst for shifting perspectives and emotions so that life is not only more manageable but can be enjoyed in a kind, vibrant and sensitive way. As you journey along the Wild Atlantic route, take a deep breath and allow the beauty of our environment to nourish your heart. Consciously invite positive emotions more and more of the time.

SAFETY CONSIDERATION WHEN YOU ARE HEADING FOR THE HILLS Every year there are casualties on Ireland’s mountains. Often it is those who decide on a whim to go out hiking –often without adequate essentials such as extra clothing, food and water –who get into trouble. Please be aware of the following cautions and ensure that you are adequately prepared. On a sunny day , there might be a radically different weather system on the mountain top. One story tells of two teenage boys who were discovered cold and lost on the top of one such mountain. It was a summers day , warm and sunny on the ground. Climbing above 600 metres however, the weather turned cold, damp and misty. The boys had set off without food, water or extra clothing wearing only t-shirts and shorts – leaving their parents to wait for them on the other side of the mountain. Mountain rescue teams have responded to many incidents in Ireland’s hills and mountains that could have easily have

been avoided. Please ensure that you plan your route carefully and consider the ability of the group, steep ground, fitness levels, weather conditions equipment and time of year. It is worth investing in a emergency shelter or “bivvy bag”, bring emergency provisions of high energy snacks, a whistle and a fully charged mobile phone. Especially when you are planning off the beaten track. Always inform someone, perhaps someone working at your hotel or guesthouse, of your intention to go out hill walking. State that if you have not returned by an agreed time that they may call for help. Careful planning can save lives. Ordinance Survey maps of Ireland are useful guides to the terrain, a GPS System or compass are also trusty tool to have – especially when mist comes down and when visibility is poor. www.leavenotraceireland.org

• Leave no Trace • Plan ahead and Prepare, • Be Considerate of Others, • Respect Farm Animals and Wildlife • Travel and Camp on Durable Ground, • Leave what you find, • Dispose of waste Properly • Minimise the Effects of Fire

CORK

TRIVIA Cork Harbour is the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s second largest natural harbour after Sydney Harbour. Irish Astronomer Agnes Mary Clerke (1842-1907) from Skibbereen in Co. Cork is the only Irish person to have a Lunar Crater named after her.

Charleville Mitchelstown Newmarket Kanturk

Mallow

Fermoy

Youghal

Blarney

Ballyvourney Macroom

Claycastle Front Strand

CORK CITY

To Kerry KENMARE RIVER VIEW BALLYDONEGH VIEWPOINT

Allihies

DURSEY ISLAND

15 12

Castletown Bere

FAIRHEAD VIEWPOINT

Adrigole WHIDDY ISLAND VIEW

BEAR ISLAND

9 8

Barleycove

MIZEN HEAD

Bandon

Dunmanway

GARNISH ISLAND

Bantry

3 Skibbereen

Schull

Tragumna HORSE, HAIR Baltimore LOUGH HYNE & SHERKIN ISLAND CLEAR ISLAND

Clonakility

2 Courtmacsherry

Inchydoney

Rosscarbery

INCHYDONEY ISLAND

GALLEY HEAD

Garryvoe

Crosshaven

1 KINSALE

SEEFIN VIEWPOINT

SHEEPS HEAD TOORMORE BAY

Carrigaline

11 Glengarrif

The Start of the Wild Atlantic Way!

Garrylucus OLD HEAD OF KINSALE

Artisan Cheese CORK CITY

The City of Cork

THE CITY OF CORK "As we sported and played, 'neath the green leafy shade TRIVIA on the banks ofis themy lovely Lee"after Cork Harbour world’sown second largest natural harbour Sydney Harbour. Irish Astronomer Agnes Mary Clerke (18421907) from Skibbereen in Co. Cork is the only Irish person to have a Lunar Crater named after her.

The word ‘Steeplechase’ originated in 1752 following a crosscountry horse race between the steeples of Buttevant Church and St. Ledger Church in Doneraile, in Co. Cork. The first potatoes in Europe were grown by Walder Raleigh in 1596 on his estate in Youghal, Co. Cork.

he alleys of Cork city house a diverse scene of characterful pubs like the Hi-B and The Long Valley Bar, alongside sophisticated cocktail bars and clubs including the elegant Bodega on Coal Quay and Bowery, offering 3 diverse floors to suit every mood. Venture just outside the city limits to visit Blackrock Castle Observatory where you can even send a message to space! Travel to Blarney to "Kiss the Blarney Stone" for the 'gift of the gab' or take a train to Cobh and step back in time with The Titanic Experience. The kids will love Fota Wildlife Park on Fota Island, which is just a train ride away! Here you will come face to face with animals and birds from around the world in a safari style experience. Set in the grounds of a palatial mansion the extensive gardens that surround Fota Island, hold some of Irelands' oldest trees. Cork is a vibrant city full of youth, creativity and heritage. Cork also has a reputation as the “circus capital of Ireland” – look

Loic Jourdain 20

out for street acts, arial shows and an array of creative characters to delight young and old! For a fabulous walk of a starry night, follow the signs for Montenotte which you can access from the Northern end of Mc. Curtain street. Follow the path as it curves uphill and you will eventually come to the top with it's expansive views upon the city. An historic lane known as “lovers lane” will take you back down towards the city again where you can see Cork's dockland area up close and maybe get a glimpse of one of the many impressive sea going vessels or “Tall Ships” that make a visit here. Traditional music is alive and well in Cork city, support the craft of Cork's many buskers, check out one of the many sessions or catch some traditional singing of a Sunday evening in An Spalpín Fánach.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 2121

CORK CITY Cork City centre is built in the embrace of two arms of the River Lee linked by a series of bridges, earning her the nickname 'The Venice of the North'. The Lee splits into North and South Channels west of the city that rejoin at Cork docklands to flow into the sea. The town itself is built upon a marsh – hence the name “Corcaigh”- the lazily flowing waters of Corks river Lee lend a sultry and relaxed atmosphere. From the narrow streets on the North Side of the river to the elevated views of her southern Hills, Cork is a city of contrasts and magic. St. Patrick's Street or 'Panna' as it is known locally, is the main thoroughfare of the city with offshoots of shoppingfriendly, pedestrianised streets on either side. Wander down Oliver Plunkett Street, discover the exciting and enticing English Market, then head down Opera Lane towards the chic Hugenot Quarter for quirky shops, craft centres and an abundance of cafes and restaurants.

Continued From Shandon you are just a stones throw

Compact Cork is a pedestrian's dream allowing you to visit the many museums and galleries with ease. For fine art and an impressive collection of Ireland's Classical sculpture, don't miss Crawford Art Gallery in Emmet Place. Set in a fabulous Georgian building, you can view many Irish artists of earlier centuries including the heroic works of corkman James Barry and woman painter Evie Hone. Enjoy some of the fabulous pastries at the Crawford's Cafe! Ringing the Bells of Shandon is a must for Cork visitors – climb up the winding staircase and take a birds eye view of the city in one of her oldest churches. The clocks here are known in Cork as “The Four Liars” as each of them tells a different time! But let time go for a while and explore the winding streets of Shandon home to Irish Poet Trevor Joyce and a host of artists who run “The Guesthouse” just around the corner from Shandon Church. Look out for a chance to enjoy

Loic Jourdain

some contemporary dance at the circular Firkin Crane, one of Ireland's leading dance venues. Cork's Butter museum also in Shandon brings you back in time to the days when cattle would throng these narrow streets. Cork was once a major exporter of butter worldwide. from a stunning spot with fantastic views– Patricks Hill can be accessed by the steep stone steps from the bottom of Mc. Curtain street. Here is a nice spot for a picnic in sunny weather. If it's a quiet retreat from the urban scene that you are after – follow the river away from town and you will arrive at a fabulous walk through dappled light along by the river. Crossing the white bridge you can then take a right turn towards the fabulous flowers and gardens of Fitzgerald's Park, or cross over the road to enter the fabled gates of University College Cork. The Glucksman Gallery is found here; a world class museum of Contemporary art, the building itself is of note for it's definitive architectural statement! The Honan Chapel in UCC is one of Cork's well kept secrets – built in a style influenced by the Irish Arts and Crafts movement (1894-1925) the church makes a statement about Irish National Identity. Opened in November 1916 in the year of the Easter Rising this is a gem of HibernoRomanesque architecture blended with Art Nouveau -the floor is set with a remarkable astrological figures. Also in UCC, you can view Irelands' finest collection of Ogham stones, collected by Anglo Irish antiquarians of preceding

centuries these are truly ancient pillars of Irelands' mystical hearitage. Heading once more for Fitzgeralds park you can visit Corks Museum of History ' enlightening you with intimate tales of the city's history. A garden designed by Chelsea flower show winner Diarmuid Gavin surrounds a welcoming cafe here where you can relax to the sounds of the lovely Lee river flowing by. From Fitzgeralds' Park you can access the scenic walk of Sunday's Well across a pedestrian bridge . This is a pleasant walk which will bring you to Cork City Gaol – another historical landmark that is well worth the visit! Returning again to the South of the City, seek out the stunning architecture of St. Fin Barre's Cathedral – adorned with gazing gargoyles and housing the largest Organ in Ireland. St. Finbar, Cork's patron Saint is associated with the mystical glen of Gougán Barra where the river Lee rises. A charming church is found here, also attributed to Finbar and it is said that the Saint Defeated a serpant who lived in the lake. The Cathedral is host to a variety of events, the acoustics here make this a wonderful setting for a concert, if you can catch one! Triskel Christchurch, Cork Opera House and the Everyman Theatre offer world-class entertainment to satisfy all thespian tastes. To find up to the minute information on local theatre, music and arts events – look out for the Cork “Whazon!” Guide.

22 22 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

THE ARBUTUS STORY

THE ARBUTUS STORY Special feature

> by:

Declan Ryan

Arbutus breads have gained widespread notoriety for the great taste and high quality of their artisan home baked goods. Winners of the Georgina Campbell natural food award of 2016 Arbutus breads have gained widespread notoriety for the great taste and high quality of their artisan home baked goods. Winners of the Georgina Campbell natural food award of 2016, one of the “best shops in Ireland” 2015, Arbutus breads have a solid customer base from Cork to Dublin. Arbutus also proudly sport the ‘Real Bread Ireland’ logo. Real Bread Ireland is a new initiative set up to identify real bread, to educate, inform and promote real bread and encourage more people to get back into baking in Ireland. It is bringing together bakeries who are servicing their communities and also home bakers. “Please ask at Farmers markets if you would like some sourdough starter yourself ” says Declan. “Don't be afraid of sourdough there are loads of methods out there including No Knead Bread!” Here, self taught baker, Declan Ryan shares his journey with Arbutus Breads. I started Arbutus Bread in 1999, after selling my previous business Arbutus Lodge Hotel, where we were the first to achieve a Michelin star in Ireland. I knew that retirement would not suit me, and that I had to be active, so I converted a small garage in front of my house into a bakery. In those early days I made the deliveries afterwards from the back of my jeep.

Being self-taught and having learnt about sourdoughs from a San Francisco baker I got in touch with the Bread Bakers Guild of America who had a trip organised to a bakery school in Aurillac in the Auvergne in France. The two tutors were two of the very best bakers in France, Pierre Nury and Xavier Honorin who were inspirational in their enthusiasm. A further influence from France came from our cottage in a little village called Bras d'Asse in Les Alpes des Haut Provence and the now retired village baker Gerard Bourgeac who allowed me to work with him and from whom I copied a number of breads and techniques. We soon outgrew the little garage & the search was on for a larger premises which I eventually found in Mayfield. Here I have been able to indulge my dream of creating an Artisan bakery based mainly on French techniques and styles of equipment. There are now eight fulltime bakers, one of whom has been with me since the days of the two car garage. We are an international crew coming from Ireland, Latvia, Hungary, Romania and Poland. A recent visitor to the bakery said that he had never seen such a hard-working, dedicated group! You can read more of Declan’s Blog on www.arbutusbreads.com

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 2323

"We soon outgrew the little garage & the search was on for a larger premises which I eventually found in Mayfield. Here I have been able to indulge my dream of creating an Artisan bakery based mainly on French techniques and styles of equipment."

24 24 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

ARTISAN CHEESE

AN ABC OF CORK’S ARTISAN CHEESE MAKERS Cork could be described as Ireland’s artisan food epicentre. Undoubtedly, Ireland is experiencing an artisan cheese Renaissance and it has never been a better time to enjoy the wide range of super high quality cheeses on offer.

Renowned for its high-quality dairy, pristine grazing lands and clean air, Cork is a natural choice for passionate artisan cheesemakers. Producers like Gubbeen, Cashel Blue and Durrus have long been appreciated by international gourmets and in recent years there have been countless up and coming farmhouse cheesemakers creating a foodie stir. Here is a short list of some of the finest Cork Cheese Producers, operations both large and boutique. From Milleens, the stunning Irish farmhouse cheese (cow’s milk), made in the beautiful Beara Peninsula, West Cork to Durrus and Gubeen – Cork’s cheese makers are world renowned. Often, these family run businesses are true labour of love – with hand reared animals living as nature intended in the beautiful picturesque countryside. Ardrahan from Kanturk, in County Cork this farm makes semi soft cow’s milk cheese in plain and oat smoked forms. Based in Carrigtwohill, near Cork city, Ardsallagh Goat’s cheese is a family run cheese making operation specialising in goat’s cheese (soft and hard) and yoghurt made with milk from their own goat herd, they sell the goat’s milk. Also from Cork, Bandon Vale is a commercial cheese producer making a range that includes Vintage (mature nutty cheese), Murragh (Irish cheddar) and Glandór (mellow Red Leicester). Frank and Gudrig Shinnik make a Gouda style cheese called Cais Dubh in Fermoy.

Another very popular cheese in Ireland, Carrigaline Farmhouse Cheese has a very buttery texture and is an artisan cow’s milk semi soft cheese made by Ann and Pat O’Farrell in County Cork (Carrigaline) at the “Rock” (under the shadow of the castle in ruins). Distinctive hard goat´s cheese made by Tom and Lena Biggane in Charleville, Country Cork is called Clonmore Goats Cheese. Although a relatively new company, Clonmore is already adored by Irish cheese fanatics and gaining international attention quickly. Coolea Farmhouse Cheese produce a gouda style cheese made with aged cow’s milk in Coolea, in the scenic hills that border the counties of Cork and Kerry. Founded by a Dutch cheesemaker and now run by her son, Coolea is well established as one of Ireland’s classic cheeses. Durrus Cheese is made by Jeffa Gill one of the artisan cheese pioneers of Ireland, along with Giana Ferguson of Gubbeen. These women have been making fabulous cheese since the late 70´s, way before it was in fashion. Durrus is round, semi soft and made with cow´s milk then aged. Gubeen is made by Giana and Tom Ferguson, true culinary pioneers in Ireland based in West Cork just outside the picturesque hamlet of Schull. They make both smoked and unsmoked artisan cheese with cow’s milk from their own herd. This cheese comes highly recommended!

"West Cork to me is the capital of food in Ireland. So much of the best food being grown and produced in Ireland comes from West Cork. From the farmers, to the producers to the farmers markets and restaurants, it is a haven for foodies.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D; Clodagh McKenna, Irish Chef & Food Writer 25

Cork Roadtrip Skibbereen – An Sciobairín

the bay, Baltimore also has become a popular venue for scuba diving. These include a Second War submarine(U-260), the bulk carrier Kowloon Bridge and the Alondra from 1916.

This bustling market town of Skibbereen retains its local colourful and friendy feel and has much to offer including world class food, unique shops, live music and all only 5kms from the nearest beach.

www.baltimore.ie

Drombeg stone circle has been a megalithic site of stature for thousands of years and is one of the more intact circles in Cork. For more recent history,Skibbereen’s Heritage Centre offers an insight into the devastating legacy suffered in this area following those infamous years of the 1840’s. Thousands died and Skibbereen was especially affected lending a passion and fire to the minds of local people in their striving for justice following such brutal suffering. The area was to emerge at the forefront in all great movements towards national freedom seeking independence for Ireland. Today Mc Carthy remains the town’s most common surname. This is no surprise as prior to 1600, most of the local land belonged to the McCarthy tribe! Lough Hyne, close to Skibbereen is Ireland’s first marine wildlife reserve, offering a wonderful place to walk and enjoy the scenery. For those who like to take to the water, a whale and dolphin watching trip may be just the thing, or you may rather a relaxing trip to Heir Island for a romantic pic nic. www.skibbereen.ie

Baltimore – Dún na Séad “Fort of the Jewels” The name Baltimore is an Anglicisation from the Irish, “Baile an Tí Mór”, or town of the big house. The first records refer to Baltimore as a seat of one of Ireland’s most ancient dynasties, the once mighty Corcu Loígde, site of former Kings of Tara and Kings of Munster. In ancient times, Dún na Séad served as a sanctuary for Ireland’s Druidic class. The placename is also associated with the ancient traditional festival of Bealtaine. Today Baltimore is a main ferry port of the West Cork region, and a great place from which to explore Sherkin Island, Cape Clear Island, the eastern side of Roaring Water Bay ( Lough Trasna) or Carberry’s Hundred Isles.. One of the most notable landmarks in the area is the 50ft white stone construction of the Baltimore Beacon also known locally as Lot’s Wife or “pillar of salt”. Due largely to the number and variety of shipwreck in

The Sack of Baltimore The sea brought pirates from the African coastal town of Algiers one balmy summer’s night in 1631. The locals were rudely awakened. On the night of June 17th 1631, two ships from Algiers arrived and anchored at Baltimore, this quiet coastal town. They ransacked the entire town and took away all 163 souls, the entire population of the town – back to North Africa. It has been noted that a number of the inhabitants of North Africa have red hair and blue eyes. Historians of the 19th century have claimed that they are descendants of these captives from Ireland. However, with the possible exception of five people, all of the hostages taken from Baltimore on that fated night, were in fact English. Baltimore was then a “planted” town occupied by settlers. The leader of the Baltimore expedition was in fact a Dutchman!

“All, all asleep within each roof along that rocky street, And these must be the lovers with gently gliding feet. A stifled fast! A dreamy noise! The roof is in a flame. From out their beds and through their doors rush maid and sire and dame. And meet upon the threshold stone the gleaming sabre’s fall And o’er each black and bearded face the white or crimson shawl, The yell of “Allah” breaks above the prayer and shriek and roar – Oh Blessed God, the Algerine is Lord of Baltimore:” The Sake of Baltimore written some 200 years after the event by Thomas Davis. This tale of contact between Ireland and Africa is not unique. To learn more of how the island culture has been shaped through dealings with Africa, Spain and the far east see The Atlantean Irish by Bob Quinn.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 27

Courtmacsherry – Cúirt Mhic Shéafraidh A gem of a town, Courtmacsherry stretches along Courtmacsherry Bay with lush woodlands rising behind. Here you can choose to rent a boat and take a closer look at the coast for yourself. You may even catch a glimpse of the elusive Coutrmacsherry Whale! A branch of a family of Norman settlers known as Hodnetts changed their name to MacSeafraidh (Son of Geoffrey) which was later anglicised to MacSherry of McSharry. This is where the town of Courtmacsherry got its name. One descendent of a “Courtmacsherry Hodnett”, Patrick MacSheafraigh from Antrim travelled to America in 1745 and founded macSherrystown in Adams county, Pennsylvania. www.courtmacsherry.ie

Clonakilty – Cloch na Coillte “Stone of the Woods” Ireland’s first “Fair Trade” town. In 1292 a charter was given to Thomas De Roach to hold a market every Monday at Kilgarriffe (then called Kyle Cofthy or Cowhig’s Wood), close to where the present town now stands. As its name suggest Clonakilty has been a very wooded area, and nature is close to the hearts of this rural community. There is even a community woodland, community gardens and a unique all weather attraction, the “Jungle Park” featuring unique animal sculptures have been decorated by a local or international artist. Take a relaxing walk at the Lisselan Gardens or take in the ocean views at Inchydony beach. One of Ireland’s most captivating republican leaders, Michael Collins, was born close to Clonakilty in Woodfield Farm. In 1919 he founded the IRA (Irish Republican Army). For ten days in 1922 he was head of the Irish Free State prior to his being ambushed and murdered at Bandon in Co. Cork by Irish Republicans opposed to the 1921 Anglo-Irish Treaty. Learn more about this Irish hero at the Michael Collin’s Centre here. Today, Clonakilty is a leading voice for environmental awareness with a 2020 vision for local energy and many exciting community initiatives. There are also community bikes initiative, what better way to explore the local scenery, chat with the locals and take the air! www.clonakilty.ie

Rosscarbery – Ross Ó gCairbre “Wood of the Carberys” Located on a tidal inlet about one kilometre from the Atlantic, Roscarberry is known as a haven for wildlife who make their home in its rugged coastline and lush surrounding countryside. Unspoilt Owenahincha beach here offers a great day of exploring. Here visitors can travel down to Warren strand with its rolling dunes or travel further towards Rosscarberry Pier for a spot of fishing by the sea. Steps lead up from the pier on to the western headland with its rugged cliffs and panoramic view of both bay and ocean. Lovers of nature can avail of some wonderful opportunities to visit many special creatures in their pristine natural surroundings. Lovers of adventure will enjoy the Smuggler’s Cove Adventure Centre which offers the pirate themed adventure golf, Smugglers timber maze, fully floodlight golf driving range, coffee shop, and a spectacular viewing deck, available all year round. From July to September, they also open Ireland’s largest Corn Maize Maze which is a big hit with young families. For those more inclined to the water, the Lagoon Adventure Centre offers boats and thrills for all the family. Around the 6th century, Rosscarbery was one of the major cities in Europe. Today, the town is a relaxed haven with plenty to see and do. www.roscarbery.ie

28 28 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

Cork Roadtrip Bere Island –An tOileán Mór

Adrigole – Eadargóil “between two inlets”

Located just 2kms offshore from the fishing port of Castletownbere Bere Island retains a distinct easy charm of rural Ireland. The Slieve Miskish and Caha Mountain ranges of the Beara Peninsula tower over the island providing a dramatic backdrop. Home to a population of just over 200, the island is roughly 11km x 5kms a size that is manageable for walkers and cyclists. History remembers this Island as the place where the Bantry Longboat ran aground – where the hopes of the French and Ireland’s 1798 Rebellion lay at the mercy of a catastrophic storm.

Adrigole is where today’s global ban on CRC’s took root in the work of scientist Sir James Lovelock, author of the Gaia theory of the earth – sitting in his holiday cottage in Adrigole one summersa day of 1968. Looking out at the thick smog that lay across the village he started to wonder : “could this be caused by industrial pollution blowing across from Europe on an easterly wind?” he wondered. Having some years previously invented an ECD or electron capture device, to measure air pollution he was thus able to confirm that this smog was, in fact, industrial pollution. It was made up largely of Chlorofluorocarbons – CFC’s. Thus, Adrigole became the first in a worldwide network of Atmospheric Pollution monitoring stations. Further research uncovered the startling fact that CFC’s were the main cause of the thinning of the earth’s ozone layer.

Due to its strategic location, Bere Island offers a very interesting heritage. Rich in archaeological sites dating from the Bronze Age through the Medieval times, here you can explore ring forts, standing stones, wedge tombs and burial sites. At various stages the British constructed Martello towers, a signal tower, military barracks and a military fortification which hosts two six inch guns mall of which can be seen today. A quiet island paradise for bird watchers and plant lovers to delight at the many species to be found on land and at the water’s edge. www.bereisland.net

Dursey Island – Oileán Baoi Dursey is an Island separated from the mainland by a narrow stretch of water called the Dursey Sound. This channel has a very strong tidal race, with a reef of rocks in the centre of the channel which is submerged at high tides. This peaceful island is 6.5km long and 1.5km wide with only a handful of permanent residents. It is connected to the mainland by Ireland’s only cable car. Ballynacallagh, Kilmichael and Tillickafinna the island’s three historic villages sit east to west across the island. Quite a few of the buildings that comprised these villages can still be seen today. Another once bustling community lost to the famine and to emigration surely has tales of its own. Today nothing but stones remain to echo mumbling memories of long vanished inhabitants. As Dursey has no shops, pubs or restaurants, visitors are well advised to bring food and water if they plan to go for a walk or stay for a night here. www. Durseyisland.ie

Lovelock’s Gaia theory posits that planet Earth is itself a selfregulating living entity that continuously adjusts the elements to create the best physical and chemical environment to sustain life. Gaia was a Greek earth mother goddess figure MORE. Looking out ahead from Adrigole, we are facing an increasingly bare and rocky landscape of the Beara Peninsula. Far from the crowd and din of the cities small local pubs and café’s offer cosy shelters. Here in the rural periphery, the spirit of ancient lore lives on. The Beara Peninsula is home to the tales of the Hag of Beara. If you take a notion to explore this rocky interior landscape of the peninsula you may even chance to come upon her rocky form – frozen for all time but alive in local imagination. Of all the peninsulas in the south west that I have travelled, Beara is the one that feels oldest. Looking closely, one can see how the wind and rain have eaten into the rock such that today only stubs remain of once towering peaks.

The Hag of Beara An Chailleach Beara, “The Hag of Beara” is a most famous and ancient inhabitant of the peninsula. A fine woman who once had the gift of perpetual youth th eChalilleach is said to have aged seven times asn then become young again each time marrying a king, watching him age and then becoming young once more.

The Beara Peninsula

here. A cosy hostel welcomes visitors. Castletownbere, a town of about 1,500 people and Ireland's leading whitefish port boasts possibly the finest natural harbour in Ireland.

Of all the peninsulas in the south west that I have travelled, Beara is the one that feels oldest. Looking closely, one can see how the wind and rain have eaten into the rock such that today only stubs remain of once towering peaks.

Nestling between the Caha and Slieve Miskish Mountains the town is sheltered from the Atlantic Ocean by Bere Island. Named for O Sullivan Bere. Having served with distinction in the Austrian and French armies, O’Sullivan died defending his ancestral home in Eyeries against a besieging party of English soldiers.

An Chailleach Beara, “The Hag of Beara” is a most famous and ancient inhabitant of the peninsula. A fine woman who once had the gift of perpetual youth th eChalilleach is said to have aged seven times asn then become young again each time marrying a king, watching him age and then becoming young once more. This immortal woman would take herself to bath once every one hundred years in a mountain stream – thus completing her transformation and eternal youth. However, her plans were foiled one early morning when, startled by dogs, she turned and so missed her chance to bathe at the appointed time. She turned to stone. And so she remains to this day.

Located at the mouth to Bantry Bay, (the world’s second deepest bay) Castletownbere Harbour provides extensive piers with safe berthing for both commercial and pleasure craft. Being on the Gulf Stream the winters are very mild and rarely do temperatures drop to freezing. The town, ancestral seat of Clan O'Sullivan Bere with Dunboy Castle within walking distance, (site of the last battle in Ireland between Elizabeth I and the Gaelic Chiefdoms) is the perfect base for both visitors and environmentalists alike to explore the unspoilt beauty of the Beara Peninsula's flora & fauna and the many antiquities it has to offer.

Castletown Bere – Bearhaven Baile Chaisleáin Bhéarra

Among the wide range of business services you will also find plenty of accommodation facilities like bed & breakfast, hostels and self-catering to make any visit to beautiful Beara a relaxing and comfortable one.

Dominated by the rolling Caha mountains, the Beara peninsula is of geological interest. The bare rock in all its wondrous variegated splendour has also inspired stories in the local folklore. It is as if the rocks themselves have a voice in this barren landscape, if we but only listen.

The Beara Way Consists of 9 stages and is 125 miles in total. All sections are well marked and you can join the walk at any stage in the peninsula. The official printed guide is available for sale locally. un-crowded roads, presenting a succession of seascape views which, for sheer grandeur and beauty, are unparalleled elsewhere.

Rich of veins of copper at the end of the peninsula near Allihies. There is evidence that fires were used here as early as 1600 B.C. to crack the ore mined from these hills and extract copper. This was then combined with tin from Cornwall across the Celtic Sea to produce the bronze of weaponry and ornament. In later times, a copper mining business was set up on Allihies around the peak of Hungry Hill. If you are in need of a cosy hideaway you can visit the Great & Company café to sample some home-made cakes and sport the local artisans of Casteltown Bere. UPDATE. A popular Spiritual Centre called Dzochen Beara is a peaceful place to visit while on the Beara peninsula. Here you can relax in a café, browse the bookshop and take a moments peace in the wonderful meditation room whose glass walls allow some breath-taking views of the vast Atlantic ocean beyond. Visitors are also welcome to join the daily loving kindness meditation. Regular spiritual retreats in the Buddhist tradition are also held

Beara is indeed a region of unexpected pleasures, which beckons the discerning tourist, who wants to get off the “beaten track” and mingle with friendly, courteous and helpful people. Everywhere the visitor is received in the spirit of the ancient Gaelic greeting. Céad Mile Fáilte “A Hundred Thousand Welcomes.” As a first days outing from Castletownbere, the visitor will do well to confine his explorations to the district west of the town, as far as Dursey Sound. Barely a mile to the west is the first object to attract attention, and one of special interest to the historically minded, the storied Castle of Dunboy, the last stronghold held by the Irish Chieftains in the Elizabethan wars of conquest. Embosomed in its beautiful environment of woodland, the now ruined fortress recalls many a grim battle waged for its possession.

Cork Roadtrip Bantry – Beanntraí “Place of Beann’s People” Located at the head of Bantry Bay, a deep-water gulf extending for 30 km (19 miles) to the west, Bantry has a rich local history. Here you will discover a historic port and well-appointed market town with a wonderfully laid back atmosphere, caressed by the Atlantic’s salty air. Bantry House, which looks over the town has a lively programme of festivals and events including the world renowned “Masters of Tradition” festival in DATE. The annual literary gathering brings an international array of talent to the town for an engaging week of readings, workshops and inspiration.

Bantry claims an ancient connection to the sixty-century saint Brendán the Navigator famous for his book NAME . He is recorded as the first person to discover America.

The Bantry Longboat –MARITIME HERITAGE In December 1796, hot on the heels of Revolution, the French set anchor just outside Bantry Bay. These sailing ships were gaily painted in Red, White and Blue, the colours of the revolution. Unfortunately for the sailors, bad weather preventing them landing in Bantry port. The army itself consisted of 48 ships and 15,000 troops under the command of General Hoche, and with Irish leader Wolfe Tone on board.

Most of the fleet returned to France due to the bad weather but one ship’s longboat, used in a French scouting landing, washed ashore with her crew on the nearby Bere Island. The men and their vessel were captured and the longboat, known today as the Bantry Longboat was brought to the boathouse at Bantry House where she was to lay for 150 years.

This original longboat is the oldest surviving vessel in the French navy.

In 1944, she was presented to the National Museum of Ireland. In 1977, she was lent to the Maritime Institute of Ireland which exhibited her in the National Maritime Museum of Ireland, Dún Laoghaire, until 2003, where a scale model is now displayed. She was restored at the Liverpool Museum and put on display in the National Museum of Ireland, Collins Barracks. Cork’s Atlantic Challenge are building their own Bantry Longboat – look out for them at the Cork Maritime Festival !

Glengarrif – An Gleann Garbh “The Rugged Glen” Glengarrif is a gateway to the Beara Peninsula, famous for it’s staiking natural beauty and deep tranquillity. This has been a popular holiday destination since the 1700’s. Glengarrif is also known to be one of the few areas in either Ireland or Britain to retain much of its ancient woodlands which once covered these islands. Here one can visit “Ireland’s Eden” an interactive sculpture garden, the unique Future Forests, The Hollys centre for Sustainability or explore Glengarrif ’s Bamboo park.

Garnish Island –Isle na Cuillin “Island of Holly” Located in the sheltered Glengarrif harbour Garnish Island is a world renowned Island garden of memorable beauty. Here you will find rare tropical plants thriving thanks to the influence of the warming currents of the Gulf stream. Notable guests who have stayed on this Island include writers George Bernard Shaw, who stayed on the island in 1923 while writing his play, Saint Joan, and the poet, artist and mystic Æ (George Russell). Garnish Island is open to the public from April until October. www.glengarriff.ie

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 3131

un-crowded roads, presenting a succession of seascape views which, for sheer grandeur and beauty, are unparalleled elsewhere. Beara is indeed a region of unexpected pleasures, which beckons the discerning tourist, who wants to get off the “beaten track” and mingle with friendly, courteous and helpful people. Everywhere the visitor is received in the spirit of the ancient Gaelic greeting. Céad Mile Fáilte “A Hundred Thousand Welcomes.” As a first days outing from Castletownbere, the visitor will do well to confine his explorations to the district west of the town, as far as Dursey Sound. Barely a mile to the west is the first object to attract attention, and one of special interest to the historically minded, the storied Castle of Dunboy, the last stronghold held by the Irish Chieftains in the Elizabethan wars of conquest. Embosomed in its beautiful environment of woodland, the now ruined fortress recalls many a grim battle waged for its possession

Allihies – ha hÁilichí Allihies is the only town in Ireland where the houses are built in a Cornish manner, their windows and doors looking out upon the sea. One can imagine many anxious mothers awaiting the return of their menfolk. The local museum offers a unique insight into the history of Copper mining and smelting in the town. Thre is an epic feeling to this sparse and unyielding landscape. The treeless character leaves for little distraction as we ponder our own life’s journey. The Peninsula itself is named after the clan of O’Suilleabhán Béara who is remembered as The Last Chieftain of Gaelic Ireland. The family name “O’ Sullivan comes from the Irish, “O Súil Amháin” which translates as “Of the One Eye”.

Dursey Island off the tip of the Beara Peninsula is connected to the mainland by the only cable car in Ireland – it is licenced to carry three passengers and one cow.

Tallest Ogham Stone On reaching the crest of the Pass, Ballycrovane Bay comes into view on the left - a beautiful little inlet of the Kenmare River which served in the middle ages as a busy port for the light sailing ships of that period, and in later times as a safe harbour for smugglers to ply their “trade.” Here-abouts, between the road and the Bay, the tourist will notice a large pillar-stone. This is one of the most famous monuments in Western Europe. It bears the Ogham inscription: “Magi Decceddas Avi Turanias” “The grave of the son of Decceddas and grandson of Torani.” And of this stone Professor McAllister writes: “Certainly no other stone can compare with it - all the slabs and brasses and statues and tombstones of the middle and modem ages there is not one worthy to he mentioned with this lonely hill-top pillar stone, 17 feet high, watching in solemn dignity over the glorious Ballycrovane Bay.” - North of Ballycrovane Bay rises the peninsula of Kilcatherine, notable as the residence of the Cailleach Bheara, by all accounts one of the most celebrated ladies of Irish antiquity, and immortalised in Pearse’s poem: “Mise Eire, Sine me na an Cailleac Beara.” Here, beside a byroad, is a remarkable figure in stone of the upper half of the body of a woman, the legendary Cailleach Bheara (Beara’s Hag) On the Beara Peninsula we also find the Tallest Ogham stone in Europe – The Ballycrovane Ogham Stone standing just over 17ft (5.2 m) high. Travelling through Ireland’s rebel county you have followed in the footsteps of many a compelling character. We soaked up the atmosphere in Ireland’s scenic and historical gourmet capital Kinsale, past many a green field and grassy glen we have travelled. Past sandy beaches and wild ocean views. Having travelled over 100 km, you will have passed through some of Ireland’s most spectacular scenery and picturesque towns. Remember the distinctive Cork accent and you will begin to notice how the speech begins to take on a Kerry lilt. Among the many wild plants here you will encounter the shock of red fuchsia ( an emblem of West Cork) the cerise pink of rhododendrons or the rowdy yellow roadside gorse hedging. Foxgloves, also known as “fairy fingers”, may also grace your trail.

Cork Roadtrip Kinsale Cionn tSáíle “head of the sea” It has been said that the history of Kinsale is the history of Ireland itself. Originally a medieval fishing town and port – Kinsale is one of the most picturesque, popular and historic towns on the south west coast of Ireland. Having served as Ireland’s gateway for many legendary sailors, pirates and historical figures including Walter Raleigh who introduced the potato to Europe ( before he lost his head!). It was at St Multose Church in Kinsale that Charles II of England, Scotland and Ireland was crowned in 1649 –( X years after the battle of Kinsale). Take in the coastal beauty and stunning surrounding countryside on one of the many scenic walks around Kinsale and the surrounding hamlets of Summercove, Barley Cove and Sandy Cove. A brisk walk out of town will bring you to the Dock beach and James’s Fort, or out towards Charle’s Fort via the Scilly walk past some choice restaurants – a perfect spot to catch the sunset. If you were here in 1601, you would have witnessed a heady battle which essentially sealed the fate of Gaelic Ireland. The Irish princes Hugh Roe O ‘Donnell and Hugh O’ Neill, allied with forces of the Spanish empire of Philip III of Spain and Portugal against the colonial forces of the Crown of England led by Charles Blount, 8th Baron Mountjoy. Alas for the Irish, the Spanish forces went awry, the battle was lost. Ireland’s native regal class took sail to mainland Europe in what is remembered as “The Flight of the Earls”. The Earls of Tír Eoghan ( Tyrone) and Tír Conaill (Donegal) were numbered among those departing in the hope of returning to strike again

for Ireland. They were to endure a gruelling march to Rome but to no avail. The leader (NAME) was assasinated in X . Shortly after this battle, James Fort was built to protect the harbour.

Local historians are on hand offering uniquely informative walks around the town. Another notable feature is Kinsale’s role following the sinking of the HMS Lusitania in 1915 where 1,198 people lost their lives. Today, a dedicated Lusitania museum is open in the old signal tower on the Old Head of Kinsale. Setting out from Kinsale towards West Cork you are entering the picturesque coastline dotted with towns where gaily painted houses sport fragrant flowers in the dappled light of summer. From shelterd sandy coves to long sandy beaches, jagged cliffs and rocky headlands- West Cork offers a haven for those who wish to taste the fresh air never straying far from good food, good company and a cosy Irish welcome. Outdoor activities in West Cork allow ample time to fully appreciate the beautiful countryside. There are many options for horse-riding, snorkeling, golfing, cycling and hillwalking to name but a few. Take to the water for an unforgettable whale watching experience, join a local guide for some deep sea angling or go island hopping. Visit the Irish speaking Oileán Chléire on a boat from Baltimore, or brave the cable car crossing at Dursey sound. West Cork is sure to inspire and awaken you senses as it has done for the many artists, craftsmen and writers who have made their homes here. Here is a gateway to some of the most beathtaking scenery in the world as you begin your journey along Ireland’s wild atlantic. www.kinsale.ie

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 3333

Schull – An Sciol Approaching Schull you have the choice to turn left towards Roaring Water Bay or the right turn will take you towards mount Gabriel whose peak forms the highest point on the peninsula. Set in outstanding natural beauty , Schull is an idyllic place to visit. Prevailing south-westerly winds have crossed over 2000 miles of open sea to meet you – marvellously clear and clean. The safe and welcoming harbour provides a gateway to the many islands off-shore and the Atlantic ocean beyond. This is an excellent base for water-sports, pony trekking, or simply exploring the wonderful wildlife and archaeology of the peninsula. Schull also boasts a unique planetarium where one can marvel at the night sky. Explore the boatyard, catch the local market or make a date for some fine dining. Schull is also home to the popular Fastnett Film Festival. www.schull.ie

Despite its being the least mountainous peninsula, Mizen is a place that reveals the geology ancient sandstone most clearly. Vast purple grey quantities have been twisted and lifted at impossible angles , its original sediment surfaces warped and contoured by aeons of time and powers we can barely comprehend. Here the Signal Tower, was also one of Marconi’s first telegraph stations – heralding the telecommunications revolution that we live in today. To the south, the shilouette of Fastnet Rock Lighthouse, Ireland’s Teardrop was the last landfall seen by the thousands of emigrants who left ireland’s shores for America. www.mizenhead.ie

Sheeps Head Peninsula – Rinn Mhuintir Bháire

Mizen head –Corn Uí Néid Heading south-west from Ballydehob, its banks of fragrant fuscia and elegant roadside strewn with cow parsley and fields of yellow gorse makes a startling contrast to occasional purple grey rocks exposed. Heading along the spine of the peninsula you’ll find yourself in a meandering maze of roads, looping, zig zagging, intersecting one another again and again – if it wasn’t for the GPS system, you may find yourself joyously lost! This area was once, before that infamous Potato Famine, one of the most densely populated areas in Ireland. In 1841, almost 20,000 souls lived here- enjoying the fertile land, mild climate and generous countryside. Almost every field could be a home, and every scrap of land that could grow potatoes was used. By 2002, the population of this area was just 3,000. Wat we see now as unspoilt countryside, holds the memories of many deserted homes.

The Sheeps Head Peninsula extends into the Atlantic close to the Gulf stream and so, it is said, offers the mildest climate in all of Ireland. There are three quaint villages here, Durrus ( the home of famous Durrus cheese ), Ahakista, and Kilcrohane. Here, the Sheep’s head Way is popular with walkers It is a route rich in archaeological sites, this forms an 88 km long-distance trail which follows old tracks and road around the peninsula from Bantry to the headland and back. You can stop for a chat and some delicious home-made food at the Sheeps head café or visit the charming craft outlets on your journey around the peninsula. The trail can be walked any time between April and October and is divided into eight stages – each representing half a day’s walking. www.the sheepsheadway.ie

Located five miles from Goleen, the Mizen Head Signal Station is open to the public . Set in a spectacular location on high cliffs, this offers an authentic all weather experience. To reach the signal station you’ll pass 99 steps and over a towering arched bridge. A bastion at the most southerly point of Ireland, this station was built to save lives off the treacherous rocks of the Atlantic.

Cork Roadtrip

Guided Walks in the Region For a walk with a difference, join the folks of the Culture Kirtchen. Sample the sights and taste the best of Irish artisan food while local archaeologist brings the West Cork landscape to life ! www.theculturekitchen.ie

TRIVIA Cork Harbour is the world’s second largest natural harbour after Sydney Harbour. Irish Astronomer Agnes Mary Clerke (1842-1907) from Skibbereen in Co. Cork is the only Irish person to have a Lunar Crater named after her. The word ‘Steeplechase’ originated in 1752 following a cross-country horse race between the steeples of Buttevant Church and St. Ledger Church in Doneraile, in Co. Cork. The first potatoes in Europe were grown by Walder Raleigh in 1596 on his estate in Youghal, Co. Cork.

An Unmissable Experience! Cobh, The Queenstown Story An informative and emotive story of Irish emigration. Learn about Cobh’s connection with Titanic and the Lusitania. Cobh Heritage Centre, Cobh, Co. Cork, Ireland. Open 7 days 9.30 – 5.30 (Sundays 11am) Tel 353 (21) 4 813591 Find Cobh the Queenstown Story on Facebook

Email: info@cobhheritage.com Web: www.cobhheritage.com

237664_Cobh Heritage_AC_SCIT.indd 1

01/12/2015 14:08

Cork Jazz Fest

Visitor Opening Times Monday - Saturday: 9:30 - 17:30 Sunday: (Apr - Oct) 13:00 - 14.30 & 16.30 - 17:30 Guided tours and group rates available Address: Tel: Email: Web:

Bishop Street, Cork City. 021-4963387 cathedral.cork.anglican.org www.cathedral.cork.anglican.org

36 36 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

IRISH STONEMASON

AN SPAILPÍN FÁNACH REFLECTIONS OF AN IRISH STONEMASON by:

Declan Ryan

Stone walls in Ireland go back a long way. At the Céide Fields in Co. Mayo you'll find the oldest walls in Europe. From a boy who could do nothing and who didn't know one end of a table to another, I became a stone mason. I did my apprenticeship in Rossaveel, Co. Galway. The penny walls built during famine times, gave work to starving people. Today they bear silent witness to the story of Ireland. Restoring one such famine wall in Crosshaven, Co. Cork, I found Victorian farthings. This reminded me of the soupees, the men who worked for soup as stone masons for the British estates, putting their hands into a hollow as their soup bowels were dished out to them. I come from Cork, where generations of Irish men fought for Irish Independence.

In the eighteen hundreds, Ireland was once governed by something like 5,000 landlords. We, the Spailpín Fánachs, the travelling labourers , built walls for them to keep ourselves out. I know this because it is in my town where I grew up in Crosshaven, Co. Cork. When we couldn't pay our rents they shipped us off to Australia to New Zealand, and they burned us out. I have learned so much through coming here to Canada, I have learned of who I am. I could have been an Irish man coming here in the late eighteen hundreds.

Go to the West of Ireland and sit in Synge's chair. As WB yeats said, 'Romantic Ireland's dead and gone'. I am a stone of Ireland. I am in Canada. Never say to an Irish man that the famine never happened. In a vision, I'm putting my brother up on my shoulders he's got TB and consumption and I am going to bury him. I went back to a place in my mind. I have been going back to ancestors as this stonemason and apprentice.

Up at dawn and to bed at dusk. One day I shook hands with a guy in church, he asked me what do you do? I told him teaching, drama, etc. 'What are you doing on Tuesday?', he asked. Eventually he asked me to build an Irish cottage in his back garden. And so I started working as a stone mason in Canada. In America there were all these uncles for people to go to – but I had no one to go to.

It has brought me back to my roots. My father hailed from Corrofin in Co. Clare - Baile na Shlataraigh. I discovered that my father once worked on the train tracks with stones. So it is in the blood. There was no work in Ireland so I have been travelling the world. In Ethiopia I made a short film about different people's shoes, the barefoot people of Ethiopia. In Ireland we too have been barefoot and stood with bloated bellies for want of food.

There is much that we can learn from Ireland's stone walls. They tell their own story. Like life, you have to have your footing, your foundation or else the whole wall would sink. Be a stone, be still and life will come to you. You have to be strong. If you are hiding in the wall, feeling separate from life - come out! www.nathanslattery.com

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 37

qÜÉ=m~ê~Öçå=cmKéÇÑ===N===OULNNLOMNT===NRWOTWPO

`jv

Made in West Cork Celtic Gifts and Cards Handmade and Handpainted Porcelain Shortbread | Irish Books | Designer Knitwear

brings you the very best of beautiful gifts, to give or keep, directly from local crafts men and women.

Quality Irish Crafts & Products

From hand made and hand painted porcelain, inspiring prints and paintings, designer knitwear, to dried organic seaweed sprinkles, there’s something to suit all tastes.

028 36342 | 087 287 4474 info@madeinwestcork.ie carol@madeinwestcork.ie

There are games, cards, art puzzles, photographs, tiny model kits, and an invitation to read about Nosey Rosie, or join jpeg’s adventures along the Wild Atlantic Way! You will find some of our products in The Loop, Cork Airport, the Celtic Ross Hotel, Rosscarbery, and in the West Cork Hotel, the West Cork Crafts Shop, and Skibbereen Heritage Centre, all Skibbereen.

Deasys’ For all our Bed & Breakfast Rates and Offers, check out our website or just call in!

Serving Dinner Wednesday to Saturday Evening 6.00-9.30pm Early Bird Available 6.00-7.00 Sunday Lunch 1.00-3.00 Light Saturday Lunch 12.30-3.00 June to Sept Light Lunches served Wed-Sat 12.30-3.00pm

Seasonal menus packed with local artisan food produce served daily 8am – 9.00pm in the award winning Kingfisher Bar & Bistro Serenity Rooms with a full range of massage treatments Leisure Centre, including Indoor Swimming Pool, Gym, Sauna and Steam Room Regular Music, Entertainment and Events Free Wi-Fi throughout the hotel and ample parking Only one hour (67km) from Cork City and Airport

Celtic Ross Hotel, Rosscarbery, West Cork, Ireland (023) 88 48722 | www.celticrosshotel.com @CelticRossHotel

Phone 028 21277 www.westcorkhotel.com

TRIVIA In the 17th century , the British paid £20 for every Irish priest captured by a bounty hunter. The average annual rainfall in Ireland is about 150cm The world’s first Radio Broadcast is attributed to 1916. Rebels during the Rising, seized teh Dublin Wireless School of Telegraphy and began sending a message in Morse code, continuing for several days: ‘Irish Republic declared in Dublin today. Irish troops have captured city and are in full possession. Enemy cannot move in city. The whole country rising.’ In the 17th century , the British paid £20 for every Irish priest captured by a bounty hunter. The average annual rainfall in Ireland is about 150cm

The world’s first Radio Broadcast is attributed to 1916. Rebels during the Rising, seized teh Dublin Wireless School of Telegraphy and began sending a message in Morse code, continuing for several days: ‘Irish Republic declared in Dublin today. Irish troops have captured city and are in full possession. Enemy cannot move in city. The whole country rising.’ Up to the thirteenth century in Ireland it was commonplace for Prists and Monks to have wives girlfriends and children. It is said that the origin of the British political party, the Tories, has its origin in an old Gaelic word ‘ toraidhe’ meaning plunderer.

The Stuffed Olive HOME-GROWN INGREDIENTS

The Stuffed Olive is a family run Bakery & Café, Food & Wine store in the heart of West Cork. Opened in 2013, Trish, with the help of her daughters Sarah and Grace, make the most of the wonderful local ingredients that west Cork has to offer. The fresh local produce, bursting with flavour, inspires us every day. Many of the items we make in the shop are from recipes passed down to Trish by her mother who thought her to make the most of the simple home-grown ingredients that they had to hand. We love combining traditional skills and the best of west Cork food with flavours from around the world.

We hope that you visit us and West Cork soon

2A Bridge Street, Bantry, Co Cork Tel: 027-55883 www.thestuffedolive.ie

LOOKING FOR YOUR

ANCESTORS Family History Research all over Ireland All areas North & South Especially Cork City & County Special Interests Local History & Social History For a FREE evaluation, quote “Wild Atlantic Way” Email: genealogyinireland@gmail.com or write to Rosaleen Underwood MAGI 15 Whitechurch Drive, Ballyboden, Dublin 16, Ireland Member of Accredited Genealogists Ireland the accrediting body for genealogists in Ireland

Untitled-1 1

11/10/2017 13:20:49

42 42 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

WHALE AND DOLPHIN WATCHING

WHALE AND DOLPHIN WATCHING In West Cork, you are in one of Ireland’s prime locations for Whale and dolphin watching. This part of Ireland is celebrated by whale and dolphin enthusiasts the world over. Ireland’s government declared the coastal waters of Ireland a whale and dolphin sanctuary during the early 1990’s. The first of its kind in Europe, this paved the way for whale watching in Ireland to become a prime activity for our many visitors. In West Cork, you are in one of Ireland’s prime locations for Whale and dolphin watching. This part of Ireland is celebrated by whale and dolphin enthusiasts the world over.

Other species that may be seen off West Cork are:

Coastal waters off the southwest of Ireland are a summer feeding ground for a number of whale species and a year round home for several resident dolphin species including the Harbour Porpoise. Baleen whales commonly seen off the south coast include Fin whale and Minke Whales. This makes for some of the best whale watching in Europe. Humpback whales are also seen of the southwest coast. These large marine mammals feed in Irish waters for over seven months of the year on a variety of small shoaling fish and may be seen just a few kilometres offshore.

Other species of dolphins like the Atlantic white sided, the white beaked, the long finned pilot whale and killer whale are seen less frequently. Although sightings of the large Baleen Whales is the highpoint of any whale watching in West Cork, we must not lose sight of the fact that West Cork plays host to resident populations of Common Dolphins and Harbour Porpoises which may be present in considerable numbers as they move inshore during the summer months. In addition, there are frequent sightings of other dolphin species at different times throughout the year including Bottlenose Dolphins and Risso’s Dolphins.

To date, 24 species of the world’s whales and dolphins have been recorded in Irish waters. In recent years over 12 cetacean species have been seen in the clear, unpolluted West Cork waters making this one of the richest areas for whale and dolphin watching in Ireland. Irish whale watching has definitely taken off in West Cork with wide species diversity present for over half the year. Minke Whales arrive off our coast starting in March. Fin Whales traditionally arrive in the late summer/early autumn . Both species continue through to the early winter months, providing some spectacular opportunities to view these large marine mammals only a few kilometres from the coast if the sea conditions are suitable . The less predictable Humpback Whales traditionally arrive during autumn months.

March to May - Risso’s Dolphins March to November – Minke Whales April to July – Basking Sharks July to August – Atlantic Sunfish August to December – Common Dolphins September to December – Fin Whales November to January – Humpback Whales

Sightings have also been recorded of Killer Whales (Orca), Long-finned Pilot Whales, White Beaked Dolphins and Atlantic White Sided Dolphins. It is common to see the Irish seal when out on the water. Here you can meet two species of seal, the Atlantic Grey Seal and the Common Seal. The Irish Whale and Dolphin Group: www.iwdg.ie www.whalewatchwestcork.com www.marinetours.ie

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 43

species of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s whales and dolphins have been recorded in Irish waters.

SKIBBEREEN FARMERS MARKET Since King Charles II granted a charter to the town of Skibbereen in 1688 allowing a market to be held, ever since then, the town has been the commercial centre of West Cork. For 300 years fairs and markets were held in the town, culminating in the annual horse fair on 15th August. In the mid 19th centure, the Townsend family gave the town a field known as “The Fair Field” to keep the milling crowds of animals and people off the street. In 1958, Cork Marks built a cattle mart on the site. iN the 20th century, the market all but disappeared with only a few traders selling their wares out of doors. The cattle mart moved out of town to a new site, leaving a large empty space in the town centre. Following a conference on the Globalization of Agriculture and the demise of the Family Farm, a food and farming group in Skibbereen called “Growing Awareness” decided to revive the Saturday market. Inspired by the success of Middleton Market, which pioneered the new wave of local food markets in Ireland. The new Skibbereen Farmer’s market has grown from just a handful of stalls in 2002 to over 100 in 2014, making the most of the old market rights and large space in the town centre.

As well as fresh food such as fist, port and a wide array of vegetables, there are lots of cooked foods too such as pies, cakes and bread. Local cheese such as Gubeen and Toonesbridge – the only Irish buffalo mozzarella – are also available, beside a vast array of imported cheese, olives, chocolate and other goodies. Tables and chairs are laid out for custmers and lots of hot food and drinks are available. Where else could you get a Breton Crepe, a West Cork Beef Burger and a Mediterranean sambusak fall for less that €5.00 ? And for really slow food, locally grown herb and vegeables seeds and also available, including many heritage varieties. There are lots of craft stalls selling everything from magic mushrooms to magic wands, antiques and bric-a-brac. There are always several buskers playing anything from Breton dancing music to classical violin concertos to traditional Irish music. The market is a great family morning out where you can do your entire weeks fod shopping, buy presents to bring home and a make a big difference to the local economy. See you on Saturday. The market runds from about 9am until 2pm.

46 46 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

A TASTE OF WEST CORK From the care of the farmer to the loving craft of the cheese maker food is truly something that we take seriously. Through our food choices we can nourish our bodies and minds taking pleasure in the abundance of the natural world. On land or sea, nature is our nourishment. Cork has a bright reputation as the source of wonderful artisan food – smokehouses, hand-made cheeses, extraordinary confectionary and preserved meats. From craft beer to delightful dairy , there is something for everyone here. In the 18th century, Cork had the largest butter market in the world and at that time, Ireland was the world’s largest exporter of that yellow gold. Munster’s rich pastures produced a huge surplus of milk and turning it into salted butter was the simplest way to preserve its goodness. Murphy’s Ale, founded by James Murphy but now owned by Heineken, has been brewed in Cork since 1856. A colourful ancestor of the murphy clan was one Marie Louisa Murphy , a mistress of King Louis XV of France. It is said that the money she sent back to Ireland helped to start up the Murphy business empire. The most common surname in Ireland, the name Murphy is derived from the Irish Murchadh, which means “ sea warrior”. Enjoying Cork’s fabulous seafood or the produce of lush green pastures, lovingly prepared artisan food or golden ales may you relish the goodness of Cork’s culinary imagination. Be sure to look out for Cork’s many fabulous Food Festivals – celebrate the abundance and join in the foody fun ! www.atasteofwestcork.com

“There is no sincerer love than the love of food” George Bernard Shaw

KERRY

TRIVIA The two mountains on the CorkKerry border, called ‘The Paps’, were believed to be the breasts of the ancient fertility goddess Anu. Each of the Paps has a large nipple-like cairn on its summit.

While filming Ryan’s Daughter in 1970/71, director David Lean famously waited for one year so that he could shoot in a storm of sufficient ferocity. Valentia Island is the most westerly point in Europe that is inhabited.

Although nudism is illegal in Ireland, a recent survey has listed Inch Beach, Dingle County Kerry as one of the top ten best beaches in the world to let it all hang out.

To Clare 18 Ballybunion

Ballyheigue Beach

Castlegregory

12 Brandon

Cloghane

The Maherees

BLASKET ISLANDS

Dingle

SKELLIGS VIEWPOINT

Tralee

Castlemaine

Killorglin

Killarney

Cahirsiveen

White Strand

Waterville

COOMAKESTA PASS

Caherdaniel

Derrynane LAMBS Beach HEAD

Castleisland Golf Club

Inch

Glenbeigh Rossbeigh Beach Kells Beach

Ballinskelligs Beach SKELLIG ISLANDS

Ballyheigue

Camp

Valencia Island GEOKAUN VIEWPOINT

Annascaul Inch Beach

Slea Head Ventry Beach MOUNTAIN STAGE

Listowel

Banna Beach

CONOR PASS Dunquin

Tarbert

1 Sneem

Kenmare

KILMAKILLOGE VIEWPOINT

To Cork Guerin Media’s Road Trip Blue Flag Beaches On The Wild Atlantic Way Towns Wild Atlantic Way Route Wild Atlantic Way Viewpoints

50 50 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

ICE CREAM : IRISH STYLE “The Irish climate being what it is, our love affair with the cold stuff is something of a mystery. Kieran Murphy has proposed a theory: “if you can't have a summer, maybe you can have a summer experience”. So, even if we don’t get the weather to have a day on the beach, at least we can enjoy an ice-cream and feel like it is summer. Well, whatever the reason, in Ireland our appetite is sure to be satisfied with some top-quality ice cream!

"We have this ancient dairy tradition here, which is fantastic” says Kieran, “and we have one of the oldest milking breeds in the world, the Kerry cow. We've got our cows on grass where most other cows elsewhere are all shoved into pens and little milking factories. Ours wander the hills and munch away and they've done all sorts of studies that prove that when cows are fed on grass, the milk tastes better." In contrast to the usual maize diet which cows in other countries are commonly fed, a grass diet translates into a superior quality mouth-full. The Murphy brothers are not the only one’s alert to this Irish gold. It is estimated that there are about 20 local artisan ice-cream producers working in Ireland today. Another Irish artisan ice-cream maker, Roger Fahy, of Linnalla Ice Cream is making a name for the local delicacy in the Burren where he uses fresh milk and cream. “We now have bigger pots and pans, but we still make ice cream the same way - breaking eggs and using fresh cream, milk and pure cane sugar to make a delicious custard that we flavour with fresh, natural, real ingredients. There’s no real trick to what we do, we just take care and use the best of everything.” Says Kieran. Free from artificial

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 5151

ICE CREAM : IRISH STYLE

Ireland has one of the highest consumptions of ice-cream per capita, in Europe but it can take a fresh eye to see how good we really have it here. Sean and Kieran Murphy started Murphy's Ice Cream in Dingle, Co. Kerry with the goal of making the best ice cream in the world. "The reason that we went into business is because coming over - my brother and I grew up in New York, even though our father is Irish - it just seemed that the dairy here were head and shoulders above anywhere else we visited, and if the milk and cream were so good, then the ice cream should be as well," Kieran told the Irish independent. Since opening their flagship Murphy’s Ice Cream shop in Dingle in 2000, the Murphy brothers have gone from strength to strength. Today they continue to offer their range of usual and unusual flavours, including Dingle gin, brown bread, rain water and sea salt. Curious foodies will enjoy following Kierán’s culinary adventures which he shares on his blog (www.icecreamireland.com) - blue cheese and caramalised shallot ice cream anyone? In 2003, Murphys Ice Cream expanded into a new production facility and began supplying local restaurants and shops. In 2005, Murphys Ice Cream a second café shop opened on Main Street in Killarney. Since 2006, Murphys Ice Cream have chosen to use milk from Kerry cattle, supporting this indigenous Kerry breed. Serving high quality coffee as well as ice creams and desserts, Murphy’s ice cream cafés have been popping up across the country. With their clean cut sensibility, artisan quality, and a home-made feel, a visit promises to make people feel special. Today in addition to the pioneer outlets in Dingle and Killarney there ice cream lovers can enjoy the Murphy’s experience in Galway, at the Cliffs of Moher, in Dublin and soon in Kilkenny.

Makers of ice cream claim the reason Irish made products are so delicious is because of our excellent and pure dairy produce. Kieran Murphy says it's all about our wonderful milk and cream – so take a bow Kerry cows! "We have this ancient dairy tradition here, which is fantastic” says Kieran, “and we have one of the oldest milking breeds in the world, the Kerry cow. We've got our cows on grass where most other cows elsewhere are all shoved into pens and little milking factories. Ours wander the hills and munch away - and they've done all sorts of studies that prove that when cows are fed on grass, the milk tastes better." In contrast to the usual maize diet which cows in other countries are commonly fed, a grass diet translates into a superior quality mouth-full. The Murphy brothers are not the only one’s alert to this Irish gold. It is estimated that there are about 20 local artisan ice-cream producers working in Ireland today. Another Irish artisan ice-cream maker, Roger Fahy, of Linnalla Ice Cream is making a name for the local delicacy in the Burren where he uses fresh milk and cream. “We now have bigger pots and pans, but we still make ice cream the same way - breaking eggs and using fresh cream, milk and pure cane sugar to make a delicious custard that we flavour with fresh, natural, real ingredients. There’s no real trick to what we do, we just take care and use the best of everything.” Says Kieran. Free from artificial additives, preservatives and flavourings, Ireland’s unique and lovingly produced ice-cream is sure to put a smile on many faces this summer. And for those who cannot eat dairy, Ciarán has also developed sú craobh (raspberry) , banana, and rainwater sorbets. The Irish climate being what it is, our love affair with the cold stuff is something of a mystery. Kieran Murphy has proposed a theory: “if you can't have a summer, maybe you can have a summer experience”. So, even if we don’t get the weather to have a day on the beach, at least we can enjoy an ice-cream and feel like it is summer. Well, whatever the reason, in Ireland our appetite is sure to be satisfied with some topquality ice cream!

PERSPECTIVES ON IRISH MONASTICISM

Photo Credit : Mike Kenneally

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 5353

KEEPERS OF THE LIGHT PERSPECTIVES ON IRISH MONASTICISM Spectacular coastal locations along Ireland’s wild Atlantic were once home to anchorites and monastic communities. “Oileán an Easpaig Gortaigh” the Island of the Starving Bishop, is a sea stack rises 250 feet high atop a sheer overhanging cliff off the coast of Co. Clare. Skellig Michael in Co. Kerry is a famous UNESCO world heritage site, where the beehive huts of a monastery still remain much as they were 1,300 years ago. Inisboffin off the coast of Co. Mayo is another monastic settlement of note. On the settlement of Tory Island off the north coast of Donegal we can see an Irish tau cross, the symbol of monastic authority. St Enda of the Aran islands in Co. Galway is regarded as the patriarch of Irish monasticism. The old saying was ‘if you cannot go to Rome or Jerusalem, go to Aran’. Aran was called ‘Ára na Naoimh’ or ‘Aran of the Saints’. The three Aran islands of Inis Maan, Inis Mór and Iniseer have beehive huts and monastic sites all over them. It is clear that Aran, was an important centre of spirituality in Ireland. It also seems the form of Christianity once practiced in Ireland differ from that of today. Monastic life developed in the near East in late antiquity and was inspired by God’s command to Abraham in Genesis 12:1: ”Go from your country, your people and your father’s household to the land I will show you”. In Ireland, there were no rules for the monastery written in the way that the Franciscans or other European religious orders had rules. Every Irish monastery was different and followed the spirit of the founder. Irish monasticism was thus a unique expression of Christianity found in the Celtic regions. At the time, it did not sit well with mainstream Christianity within the rest of Europe and was considered heretical (Pelagian) and a thorn in the side by the episcopacy and papacy of those centuries. In Ireland, it was only finally overcome through Norman invasion in the 12th century. Until Ireland became Roman Catholic in the 12th century, Christianity was uniquely celebrated in its Celtic form on this island.

Daily life in the monasteries was concerned with the control of the self and spiritual rather than material concerns. While the clergy and episcopate in Europe at that time were known to have often led opulant lives, poverty or frugality was certainly important to the Irish monks. Before the three vows of Poverty, Chastity and Obedience came into existence in the 12th century, celibacy was not uniformly practiced. There is plenty of evidence of Irish monks having offspring. At this time, most of the monks would have lived as ‘cenobites’, i.e. in a community of hermits. Anchorites lived a distance away from the monastic community but were looked after by them. Ireland’s monastic settlements had a role in preserving the learning and wisdom of European civilization. These sanctuaries of purity and devotion sent forth monks of courage and character who became the leaders and teachers to bring Europe out of the Dark Ages. With thanks to Dara Molloy, Celtic Priest of the Aaran Islands (www.daramolloy.com) who shared his deep knowledge of life and belief in early Christian Ireland. For full listings of Early Christian Sites in Ireland visit www.earlychristianireland.net

The Story of Raglan Road Raglan Road is a famous Irish love song. It is a song of unrequited love made all the more captivating as we see that the writer himself has known from the outset that he was going to get hurt. The genius of this song is in how it captures so brilliantly the selfdestructive recklessness that otherwise rational people can display when they fall in love â&#x20AC;&#x201C; no matter how old or mature they may think that they are. Poet Patrick Kavanagh was forty years old at the time of the love affair in question and the girl, student Hilda Moriarty was but a young girl of twenty two. In an interview in 1987, Moriarty reflected how the age gap was the main reason the relationship failed. Hilda was a Kerry woman who hailed from the Gaeltacht village of Baile an Lochaigh. This is a magical place, nestled in the foothills of Mount Brandon, west of Dingle town. On Raglan Road of an autumn day I saw her first and knew That her dark hair would weave a snare that I might one day rue; I saw the danger, and I passed along the enchanted way, And I said, let grief be a fallen leaf at the dawning of the day. On Grafton Street in November we tripped lightly along the ledge Of a deep ravine where can be seen the worth of passion's pledge, The Queen of Hearts still making tarts and I not making hay Oh I loved too much and by such by such is happiness thrown away. I gave her gifts of the mind I gave her the secret sign That's knownTo the artists who have known the true gods of sound and stone And word and tint without stint for I gave her poems to say. With her own name there and her own dark hair like clouds over fields of May On a quiet street where old ghosts meet I see her walking now Away from me so hurriedly my reason must allow That I had loved not as I should a creature made of clay When the angel woos the clay he'd lose his wings at the dawn of the day.

THE STORY OF RAGLAN ROAD

All you need to know about the Skellig Rock UNESCO World Heritage Site Valentia Island, Co Kerry +353 (0)66 947 6306

Exhibition Centre Restaurant Gift Shop Film Show Sea Cruise

IRELAND’S MOST EXCITING VISITOR ATTRACTION

The Skellig Rocks are renowned for their scenery, sea bird colonies, long-lived lighthouse service, their Early Christian Monastic architecture and rich underwater life. In any era of the past 1400 years, the name of Skellig has travelled to the ends of the known world. The two Skellig Island/s – Skellig Michael and Small Skellig – stand like a fairy tale castles in the Atlantic Ocean 12km (8 miles) south west of Valentia. At 714 feet (218 meters) above sea level, Skellig Michael towers the higher; it is also the larger in area – 44 acres (17 hectares) The Visitor Centre has an 80-seat auditorium, where a 14-minute film presentation – “Island on the edge of the World” – takes visitors to the Skellig Michael Monastery. This show runs at regular intervals throughout the day. The very strong visual images from Skellig Michael used in this film, means that the use of spoken words could be kept to a minimum. The music in the programme was specially composed.

The Heritage Centre • • • • •

The Heritage Centre tells four stories from the Skellig Rocks, which are: The history and archaeology of Skellig Michael’s Early Christian Monastery. The sea birds – their habitat, their worldwide travels. The lighthouse which have given 161 years of service to mariners. The underwater Skellig – which has colour and magic equal to any se in the world.

Skellig Experience HP advert and HP editorial_WAW 2018.indd 1

The Skelligs exhibitions brings the magic and mystery of these rocks to you through graphics, film presentation, models, exhibition items, reconstruction and the sound of sea birds and Lighthouse Keeper ship-to-shore communication.

The Building

The building for the Skellig Experience was developed by Cork/ Kerry tourism in 1991-1992 to make the four treasures of the offshore Skellig Islands more easily understood by all. It is an unusual building in that the external roof finish is national grass. The building has been designed to blend into the landscape, and the main external walls faced in Valentia stone

Fionán’s Kitchen

The refreshment area looks out across the water to the fishing village of Portmagee. Hot and cold meals are served all day. Dedicated facilities for disabled visitors and baby changing area is also available.

Craft Shop

The centre has an exciting Craft shop area which has a good range of literature and craft items. Here you can also purchase books about birds, history, fish and other aspects of the Skelligs. Many local crafts are also available. A special full colour Guide Book has been produced on The Skellig Experience and a souvenir DVD of our film “Island on the edge of the World” is available in the retail area.

Skellig Cruise

Cruise around the impressive Skellig Rocks. Take to the open area and discover the magic and mystery of the rocks first hand. Cruise to the Skelligs depart from the pontoon at the “Skellig Experience”. Tickets can be bought at the admissions desk. Subject to weather conditions For more information phone +353 (0)66 94 76306 or email skelligexperience@live.com. www.skelligexperience.com

09/11/2017 23:31:51

Killarney Jaunting Cars Hospitality is in the veins of our family business. For over 200 years, the Tangney family have shared the wonder and magic of Killarney with visitors from all around the World. Tangneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of Killarney â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Killarney Jaunting Cars is regarded as one of the leading Tour Companies in Killarney with many awards and an enviable reputation within the industry. Now in its 6th generation, the business is today managed by Paul, Laura & Michael Jnr Tangney.

The Killarney Jaunting Cars Company is one of the longest privately owned tour companies in Ireland, specialising in Incentive, Leisure Groups and Individual Travel. During the course of our years in the business we have developed an excellent relationship with our clients, they trust us to provide the highest quality service and we deliver, on time, every time. We are aware that for many people traveling to Ireland it can be a once in a lifetime experience, and we want to ensure that it will be an exceptional one. Both the Company and the Tours have evolved over the years with many innovative ideas. We now offer a unique collection of engaging and authentic tours where you can combine multi-faceted options. Why not embark on a leisurely style Lake Cruise or a Traditional Open Boat, or for the adventure seeker looking to hike, bike or kayak through our scenic and rugged terrains. Allow our knowledgeable and expert team to build you a bespoke touring program. From family gatherings to corporate and international tour groups, we cater for numbers both large and small. We work closely with both Failte Ireland and Tourism Ireland, along with International Tour Operators in Tour Series, Adhoc, FIT and Incentive Groups. Our level of repeat business is unsurpassed in the industry, and we take pride in keeping the personal touch of an Irish family run business. Ireland is a country best known and loved for its people so when planning a trip to Ireland, make your first call to a Company known for its people and personal service. For more information phone +353 (0)64 6633358 or email info@killarneyjauntingcars.com www.killarneyjauntingcars.com

• Restored Farmhouse with 180 years of history on a 2km sandy beach adjacent to Waterville Golf Links. • 13 guest rooms each with en suite, TV, hairdryer, tea/coffee and free WiFi • Award winning Gourmet Restaurant, with panoramic sea views overlooking Ballinskelligs Bay, serving Modern Irish & Continental cuisine, specialising in fresh local seafood and produce, showcasing prime ingredients from the Wild Atlantic Way • Fully licenced bar serving bar food • Caters for all special events and weddings

Tel. 066 947 4330 Fax: 066 947 4422 Email: info@thesmugglersinn.ie Web: www.thesmugglersinn.ie

Stay • Eat • Drink • Shop • Explore • Kenmare, Co. Kerry is a tranquil sanctuary with superb food, outstanding accommodation and breath-taking scenery. Kenmare itself has ancient roots with the Stone Circle in the town believed to date back some 3,000 years. It is said that the circle was used as an agricultural calendar. The uniquely planned town that you see today was initiated by Sir William Petty and developed by the surveyor John Powell in the late 1700s. The area of Kenmare suffered greatly through the years of the famine. When the Poor Clare nuns arrived from their convent in Newry they found people destitute and starving. The nuns had been invited to set up a school by Fr. John O’Sullivan who believed that education was the best way to improve people’s future. The nuns established an industrial school where girls were taught the skills of lacemaking and embroidery, while boys were taught wood carving and leather work. Kenmare

Kenmare Marketing HP advert HP Editorial_WAW 2018.indd 1

Lace became renowned not only for its skilful workmanship but also for the intricate designs. The picturesque town of Kenmare is the ideal location from which to explore the South West of Ireland. The Irish name for the town is Neidin which means ‘little nest’. An apt name with the town nestling between both the stunning and unspoiled Ring of Beara and the world renowned Ring of Kerry. Whatever you are looking for, walking in the mountains, cruising on the bay, horse riding, golfing, fishing, touring or enjoying the hospitality and music of the restaurants and pubs, Kenmare has something for everyone! Check out www.Kenmare.ie for more details.

Kenmare Festivals 2018 • Kenmare Wedding Fair weekend 3rd & 4th of Feb • Quest Kenmare adventure series 10th March • Feile Neidin in April • Ring of Beara Cycle Kenmare 26th May • Small Roads Theatre Festival, Sept • Kenmare’s Halloween Howl in 27th Oct to 03rd November • Christmas in Kenmare Events throughout Dec

28/11/2017 10:08:25

TERVIL 89

Waterville House & Golf Links

info@watervillegolflinks.ie | www.watervillegolflinks.ie Waterville, Co. Kerry

For Accommodation, Tee Times, Rates and Reservations please contact: 066-9474102

Visitors and Societies Welcome Golf Memberships Available

No. 10 in Golf World Top 100 Courses Britain & Ireland | No. 4 in Golf Digest Ireland 61

TRIVIA In all, Ireland’s coastline measures 1,448 kilometers.

There are 628 known megalithic tombs in Ireland

2000 men were (legally) executed in Ireland in the 19th century. (prior to independence)

Jack Kelly, who was the father of Irish-American actress and later princess Grace Kelly, was the first person every to win three Olympic gold medals for rowing.

In 1968, a 1000 year old block of cheese was found preserved in a bog in Tipperary. In the mid-17th century, Oliver Cromwell ordered the burning of all HARPS found in Ireland. In 1800, the population of Ireland was twice that of the United States of America. ‘The Pale’ was an area in the twelfth century that included Dublin, Meath, Louth and part of Kildare. If you had your origins outside this area you were considered to be a bit of a savage, thus ‘beyond the pale’. The name Ireland comes from the Celtic mother goddess Ériu, giving us Eire.

Hurling is the world’s fastest field team sport. It has been played in Ireland for at least 2000 years. At one point prior to the Gaelic Athletic Association, sliotars (hurling balls were made of hollow bronze. Forty Million Americans Claim Irish Lineage An ancient Irish marriage ritual called ‘handfasting’ involved tying a rope between the newlywed’s wrists for 366 days. This is said to be the origin of the expression ‘Tying the knot’.

dúchas.ie Great Value 2018 New Members €390

Caith súil ar bhéaloideas na hÉireann View The Schools’ Collection and The Photographic Collection, part of the National Folklore Collection, online now:

www.dúchas.ie

fógraSeniorTimes2018.indd 1

05/10/2017 16:06

Castleisland, County Kerry Ireland’s Most Exciting Showcave

3 ATTRACTIONS IN 1 LOCATION

T: 00353 66 71 41244 For tour times and more information please visit www.cragcave.com

Logainmneacha In earlier centuries, the lore of places was an essential part of the Ireland’s Traditional education and was called Dinnseanchas. History has been described as “the depth of the present” and this sense is nowhere clearer than in Ireland where we live surrounded and immersed in the layers of our history and prehistory. Where historical records fail, we can look to a placenames in their original Irish. A play written by Brian Friel, an Irish playwright, explored the history of place names in Ireland and the psychological consequences of a loss of connection with the landscape. The Down Survey (so called because it was written down) was carried out by English surveyor William Petty in the years 1655-56, place names in English were determined through approximate sound of their original Irish names. Corcaigh became “Cork”, Ciarraí or Ciar Ríocht “the people of Ciar”, became “Kerry” and so on. We can also look to the original Irish names to find clues to local archaeological and geographical features. The Irish word for river is abhainn for example, thus you can find many rivers in Ireland called “Owen”, this is but one example. In 2005, the Irish minister for Gaeltacht regions decreed that all road signs in Gaeltactht would be in Irish language alone. Thus you may visit Daingean Uí

Chúis “The Fort of the Husseys”, also known as “Dingle”. Other names bear a curiously exotic sound. You may pass through “Muff ” in Co. Donegal, which comes from the Irish for plain or level ground “Magh”. It can add a depth to your adventures in Ireland to bear in mind that every place name can tell a story, or at least has meaning. English place names, in Ireland, are approximate sounds but have little meaning. On rare occasions, Irish placenames have origins in Scandanavian language (Waterford for example (Vadderfjord from the Vikings and Vax Hlaup, “Leixlip” in Co. Kildare). You can be surprised by what you learn. Www.logainm.ie is a useful resource online, funded by the Irish Government, where you can view the original Irish name for any place in Ireland and learn something of its meaning. Place names are an important starting point when we wish to learn more about a place ‘s history and geography. Some names speak of Ireland’s kings, saints and heroes of long ago.

LOGAINMNEACHA In earlier centuries, the lore of places was an essential part of the Ireland’s Traditional education and was called Dinnseanchas. History has been described as “the depth of the present” and this sense is nowhere clearer than in Ireland where we live surrounded and immersed in the layers of our history and prehistory. Where historical records fail, we can look to a placenames in their original Irish.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 6767

play written by Brian Friel, an Irish playwright, explored the history of place names in Ireland and the psychological consequences of a loss of connection with the landscape. The Down Survey (so called because it was written down) was carried out by English surveyor William Petty in the years 1655-56, place names in English were determined through approximate sound of their original Irish names. Corcaigh became “Cork”, Ciarraí or Ciar Ríocht “the people of Ciar”, became “Kerry” and so on. We can also look to the original Irish names to find clues to local archaeological and geographical features. The Irish word for river is abhainn for example, thus you can find many rivers in Ireland called “Owen”, this is but one example. In 2005, the Irish minister for Gaeltacht regions decreed that all road signs in Gaeltactht would be in Irish language alone. Thus you may visit Daingean Uí Chúis “The Fort of the Husseys”, also known as “Dingle”. Other names bear a curiously exotic sound. You may pass through “Muff” in Co. Donegal, which comes from the Irish for plain or level ground “Magh”. It can add a depth to your adventures in Ireland to bear in mind that every place name can tell a story, or at least has meaning. English place names, in Ireland, are approximate sounds but have little meaning. On rare occasions, Irish placenames have origins in Scandanavian language (Waterford for example (Vadderfjord from the Vikings and Vax Hlaup, “Leixlip” in Co. Kildare). You can be surprised by what you learn. Www.logainm.ie is a useful resource online, funded by the Irish Government, where you can view the original Irish name for any place in Ireland and learn something of its meaning. Place names are an important starting point when we wish to learn more about a place ‘s history and geography. Some names speak of Ireland’s kings, saints and heroes of long ago.

Photo Credit : Mike Kenneally

68 68 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

MEET THE KERRY COW

MEET THE KERRY COW The Kerry cattle breed is generally considered to be a special and quite rare animal, originating in County Kerry, of course. Kerry Cows are renowned for their milk and are cared for primarily as milk producers. In fact, Kerry cattle are known as the first breed in the world ever to be bred solely for dairy. The Kerry is believed to be one of the oldest breeds in Europe. The skull is very similar in formation to the ancient aurochs, an animal of the Stone Age (Bos primogenus), though smaller in size. The first examples of their use in Ireland date back to 2000 BC. It is thought that the Kerry is derived from the little black cow, a Celtic shorthorn, brought by Neolithic man in his migrations northwards from the Mediterranean basin. There are close affinities with the Heren, another small black breed surviving in the high Alps, and with the fierce black bulls of the Camargue in France. While prehistoric man in Asia, North Africa and Europe was selecting and breeding cattle for work and meat, the Celtic civilisation in Ireland was producing a breed of cattle for milk and dairy produce. The Irish diet back then was based on milk and milk products; meat was rarely eaten. Records have been found which show that milk was preserved in various forms including cheese and butter. There is also evidence that milk was treated with herbs and kept in jars underground. With the mild climate and long grazing season, milk was produced almost all year round. Some consider the rare Kerry cow to be an endangered breed as there arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t many Kerry cattle left in the world today. There are a few herds in Ireland and the UK, and even some in North America. The USA breeders often collaborate with Irish owners to help protect the breed and the Kerry Cattle Society also do excellent work in maintaining the purity of the breed. Kerry Cows are extremely hardy. They can withstand the cold of an Irish winter quite happily, growing a good coat of hair which keeps the cold

out. Their agility enables them to travel safely over rough ground and they do little damage to the pastures. Kerry cattle come from the same ancestral stock as Dexter cattle, and both have their similarities. Kerry cattle are also a horned breed. When horns are allowed to grow, they are white in colour with darker tips. Another distinct characteristic of the breed is that the Kerry cow is small in stature. Bulls only reach about 450kg while cows can reach about 400kg. As the breed originates in the south-west of Ireland, they are optimised to thrive on the Kerry landscape. High rainfall and tricky terrains are no problem for Kerry cattle. Their hooves do not damage moisture-sodden soils as much as heavier breeds. During cold winters, their coat adapts and grows longer, insulating them sufficiently. The Kerry cow is known to have a pleasant temperament, and even bulls are considered to be quite docile. However, bulls are always bulls so if you are coming into caution with a bull of whatever breed, caution is advised! Kerry cows generally have long and quite healthy lives, and they are known to be very active and agile. On average, a Kerry cow will produce about 3,000-3,700kg of milk in one season. Some cows are even known to produce nearer to 4,500kg! Their milk is of a very high quality, and the butterfat content is about 4%. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ideal for cheese, ice-cream and yoghurt production, due to the smaller fat globules that allow easy digestion in humans. With thanks to www.thatsfarming.com and www. kerrycattle.ie

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 6969

70 70 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

ART IN STONE

ART IN STONE “Stone has always fascinated me. Standing stones and ancient buildings testify to the importance of stone to our forefathers. I marvel at the work of ancient poeples like the Inca, Aztecs or Egyptians, who knew that stone is eternal and embodies the essence of solidity and permanence.” Artist Antonio Fazio is a self-taught stone carver. Arriving as a photographer in 1991 and visiting the Dingle Peninsula he fell in love with the rugged beauty of the place. This extraordinary spit of land with its history, archaeology, geology and landscape, inspired Antonio to carve stone. Born in Sicily, Italy, Antonio Fazio moved to the southwest of Ireland Antonio is fascinated and inspired by ancient Celtic design, Irish mythology and wildlife, he began to carve his ideas in stone. Since then he has created stone carvings that have been bought by collectors from around the world.

designs which require a special awareness and skill. Antonio can be found working on one carving for months at a time – returning each day to apply his will, strength and vision to the ancient call of the stones. You can visit Antonio at his Gallery & workshop, nestled in a wooded area 2 Km. west of Dingle on the Slea Head drive (part of the Wild Atlantic Way). www.fazioartinstone.com

Using both three dimensional sculpture and relief carvings, Antonio’s work is strongly influenced by an Irish history of stone working that reaches back over two millennia. The Dingle Peninsula is home to many ancient stone forms that echoe a mysterious past ,from the stone circle at Dún Sheen to the bee hive dwellings along Slea Head and early christian stones at Killmeakeadar church. Just a few hundred meters down the road from Antionio’s workshop you can visit the collection of Ogham stones of Coláiste Íde. Antonio brings a contemporary freshness to these themes, seamlessly integrating the Celtic tradition with his Sicilian background to produce a timeless art of great beauty and power.

Photo Credit: Helen Matthews

Antonio works mainly in sand stone and occasionally lime stone as they are the only stones available in the Dingle Peninsula. Stone carving has been practiced in Ireland for thousands of years. “It requires, commitment, dedication, skill, vision, persistence and lots of patienc” says Antonio. Working with a hand chisel and hammers or pneumatic hammers and an anglegrinder with diamond blades. Antonio works with his material to reveal new forms within it. Working in silence and often in solitude for long hours – Antonio has come to experience his craft as an act of meditation. This is especially when doing the celtic knotwork or interlacing

"For me the subject is already present in the stone and in the carving I set it Artist, Antonio Fazio

Call in and join us along the

Wild Atlantic Way

CHECK ON LINE FOR U TO DATE MEP NUS & OFFERS

Irish Hospitality Award South West Pub of The Year

A multi award winning world famous pub nestled at the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe lies Kate Kearney’s Cottage, a 150 year old family-run establishment.

Serves lunch, dinner, coffee and drinks

Gap of Dunloe, Killarney, Co. Kerry Ireland Tel: +353 (0)64 6644146 Fax: +353 (0)64 6644236 Email: katekearneys@eircom.net www.katekearneyscottage.com | Gapofdunloe.com

Greg O’ Mahoney also of Ember restaurant in Dublin has been bringing his experience in some of Irelands best restaurants including Chapter One and L’ecrivian down to the small village of Castlegregory on the Dingle peninsula for over 10 years now. With its own vegetable and herbs garden and out door seating its the perfect place to relax on a summers evening. Greg’s menu showcases local produce at its finest, a real foodie stop over if in the area.

Coffeehouse 10am - 4pm Restaurant 5.30pm - 9.30pm Early Bird 5.30pm - 6.30pm 2/3 Course €17/€20 BEST NEW COMMERCIAL IN KERRY

Bookings call 087-2130866

Main Street, Castlegregory, Co. Kerry www.gregorysgarden.ie

LIMERICK

TRIVIA The largest Meteorite ever recorded in either Britain or Ireland landed as part of a meteorite shower that fell in Limerick on 10 September 1813. It weighed in at 48kg. Although the game of POLO originated in Persia, it was first played in Europe in Limerick in 1868. The largest stone circle in Ireland is at Lough Gur in County Limerick. It is 50 meters in diameter and has 113 standing stones, the largest of which is 4 meters high and weighs 40 tons. It was built 4,000 years ago.

To Clare

To Kerry

FOYNES VIEWPOINT

To Limerick City

Castleconnell Limerick Mungret Ballyneety Askeaton Patrickswell Foynes Adare Pallasgreen Glin Rathkeale Croom To Kerry Ballingarry Newcastle West Bruree To Limerick City Bruff Castleconnell Dromcolliher Limerick Kilmallock Mungret

Ballyneety AskeatonAbbeyfeale Patrickswell Foynes Adare Pallasgreen Glin Rathkeale Croom Ballingarry Newcastle West Bruree Bruff Dromcolliher Kilmallock Abbeyfeale

Galbally

Kilfinane

Galbally

Kilfinane

Blue Flag Beaches on the Wild Atlantic Way Towns Wild Atlantic Way Route WILD ATLANTIC WAY VIEWPOINTS

Blue Flag Beaches on the Wild Atlantic Way Towns

74 74 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

FLYING BOATS

A journey along the Wild Atlantic Way can reveal many hidden treasures. One of Limerickâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s essential visitor experiences can be had at Foynes Flying Boat Museum a place of nostalgia and history where the magic of an exciting era of world aviation history comes alive. The picturesque village of Foynes in Co. Limerick is a town, an island and a harbour on the southern side of the river Shannon estuary. At Foynes Fying Boat museum you can learn about the role of Foynes in the creation of passenger flights across the Atlantic. The museum itself is located in the original airport terminal building.

Foynes Flying Boat Museum is open June, July and August from 9.30-6.00pm and other months between March and mid-November from 9.30-5.00pm. Last entry is one hour before closing.

The museum is a step back in time to 1943. When celebrities traversed the Atlantic, their first stop was at Foynes. Discover where the delicious Irish Coffee was first tasted. Foynes and flying boats are also connected with this world-famous beverage. A 3D holographic exhibition recreates the night that Chef Joe Sheridan invented the first Irish Coffee for some damp and miserable passengers. You can also learn about the patron Maureen ‘O Hara Blair and the courageous pilots and passengers who pioneered the world’s first Transatlantic Flights. The world famous flying boats were frequent visitors to Foynes carrying everyone from celebrities to refugees. At the museum you can view maps, charts

and memorabilia. You can learn about river pilots and dockers and the tragic story of the Coleen Bawn. It is a story of transportation and emigration on the river and Ireland’s role and relationship to America across the Atlantic ocean. Did you know that uniforms were exported through Foynes for Confederate soldiers during the American Civil War? There are also amazing records of ships and boats who have sailed on the Shannon in past centuries including the Windsor Castle Ghost Ship. All of the commercial flying boats which flew into Foynes had top-class facilities. The Boeing B314 had true ocean liner luxury with a 14 seat dining room, honeymoon suite and sleeping berths

for all passengers and crew. You can experience what it was like to fly one of these flying boats on flight simulators. There are also fantastic views of the Shannon estuary from the Control Tower. Learn about the war years at Foynes with intelligence reports and original newspapers. An award-winning film ‘Atlantic Conquest’ compiled from original footage is shown here in the restored 1940’s style cinema. Step inside the world’s only Flying Boat museum and experience the early days of exciting transatlantic travel. It all began in Foynes. The fantastic Foynes Air Show takes place annually and this year’s show takes place in July every year. If you are in the area of Foynes at this time you are certainly in for a treat!

LOVE OF WOOD

n 2009 I studied permaculture and sustainable land use. Part of that course involved woodland management and that is another passion of mine and compliments the woodwork that I do. I highly respect the value of living trees so all the timber I use has either been felled by a storm or reclaimed. I design and produce bespoke home furnishings from locally sourced timber, most of which falls within a few miles of where I live and work. I also work with reclaimed timber from various sources, if I can acquire it.

can create custom pieces for peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s homes, pubs, restaurants, offices and schools. If someone comes to me with an idea of some feature they would like to design and install, then I will jump on board and get creative to come up with a clever design that looks well and serves a practical function wherever it is.

I love working with the natural colors, shapes and live edges in timber. I also like to create modern designs Most of the things I make are unique, even if they are of furniture that are simple and pleasing to the eye. in the same series of products, they will all be unique Working with reclaimed wood brings the challenge and stand alone, like pieces of art. I enjoy working of creating something special that will honour the with reclaimed timber from different sources such material by giving it a new life. as oak staves from old whiskey barrels or redundant I hope you enjoy what our beautiful country has too scaffolding planks and discarded pallets. These offer and If you are passing through the village of Glin materials can have another life in another form and I in west Limerick, you can visit the workshop and love to bring them from their former life to their new gallery to see my work in the flesh. incarnations as valued pieces of furniture. You can contact me by e-mail to arrange a viewing: I make everything from kitchen tables to coffee tables, benches, chairs, stools and outdoor swings. I rudideasa@gmail.com

LOVE OF WOOD

FOR THE LOVE OF WOOD I run a business from the village of Glin in west limerick. It is a beautiful little village that sits along the banks of the river Shannon, the biggest river in the country. My workshop is part of an old style traditional pub that has been in my family for many generations. My father Thomas currently owns and runs the pub and has allowed me to use one of the workshop spaces to be creative. Here I have a wood workshop, design studio, office and gallery space.

continued

78 78 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

LOUGH GUR FOLKLORE The largest prehistoric stone circle in Ireland can be found at Lough Gur in Co. Limerick. “The Grange” stone circle dates from about 2,000 B.C. Standing 150 feet in diameter and enclosed by 113 standing stones, the largest stone is Rannach Chruim Duibh (Crom Dubh’s Division) and is over 13 feet high and weighs 40 tons. The entrance stones are matched by a pair of equally impressive slabs on the southwest side, whose tops slope down towards each other to form a v-shape. Thomas O’Connellan ..”in that churchyard by Lough Gur’s romantic shore, where the shamrocks and the ivy every grow where the wild dove and the raven like protecting spirits soar o’er the green graves of silent Teampall Nua”.

A poet-harper named Thomas O’Connellan, who died during a feast at Bouchiers Castle around 1700 is buried nearby:

LOUGH GUR FOLKLORE

Another tale, retold by Owen Bresnan in his manuscript “Lough-Gur, its pillar-stones, Stone Circles and traditions” tells the tale of the “Bean Tí and her golden comb”

any curious stories are associated with Lough Gur including one tale of Gearáid Iarla the 3rd Earl of Desmond. He was also the Chief Justice for Ireland in 1367 following the Statutes of Kilkenny. These “statutes” were passed in 1366 and were intended to turn back the rising tide of Irish culture then under Norman or English rule. It was observed that the English settlers of this time had become “more Irish than the Irish themselves”.

Another tale, retold by Owen Bresnan in his manuscript “Lough-Gur, its pillar-stones, Stone Circles and traditions” tells the tale of the “Bean Tí and her golden comb”:

Our Gearóid Iarla, one could surmise, was possibly not so well liked by the local Irish population. He is said to have dabbled in magic as well as composing verse in both Irish and French. As a punishment for his involvement in magic he did not die but was doomed to live down below the waters of Lough Gur. According to local lore, he is said to appear every seven years to ride around the lake margin on his white horse shod with silver shoes. One day, when the silver horse shoes are finally worn, he will regain his mortal form.

High above the seat was the hill on which stood the Herdsboy who watched the lady of the lake as she dressed her golden tresses. On seeing her golden comb, he wanted it for himself. As the Bean’Tí was sleeping, she did not dream of this robber boy who now softly approached the seat and stole the golden comb. From that day, misfortunes hard and fast came upon the Herdsboy and death soon came to him. When he was about to die, he ordered that the golden comb be flung into the lake and so the Bean ‘Tí joyfully regained it”.

Long ago, the Bean ‘Tí sat on her seat, having come up from the depths of the lake. She sat upon her seat and combed her hair with her golden comb which she placed beside her when the work was done. And then the Bean Tí slept.

8am - 3:00pm

10am - 3:00pm

11am - 3:00pm

farmers market

lo cal fo od, relax, family fun

The Milk Market, Mungret Street, Limerick City

Tel: (061) 214 782

A Diverse heritage, Something for everyone

info@huntmuseum.com Tel:+353 (0)61 312 833 www.huntmuseum.com

The Hunt Museum The Custom House Rutland Street Limerick

www.MilkMarketLimerick.ie

116 O Connell Street Limerick Reservations | Gift Cards www.texassteakout.ie Untitled-1 1

09/11/2017 21:46:29

82 82 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

THE FUTURE OF RIVERS OF FOOD IRELAND The rivers of Ireland are one of the most intriguing elements of the landscape. In proportion to the size of the island of Ireland, there exists a huge amounts of rivers and river kilometres.

The Lagan

The River Shannon is the longest in the British Isles. Apart from the 10 longest rivers listed below, there are shorter but significant rivers of great importance to the towns and cities they pass though or where they enter the sea. Some of these would include the River Lagan, which exits through Belfast, the River Foyle, which forms a very wide expanse of water as it exits through Derry City. The Avonmore and Avonbeg Rivers form the famous Meeting of the Waters joining as the River Avoca and then enter the Irish Sea at the busy port of

The Lee

Arklow in County Wicklow.

The River Lagan rises on the slopes of the Slieve Croom Mountain in Co. Down and flows for 60 kilometers in a general north-easterly direction to Belfast city where it then enters the Irish Sea. The River Lagan is sometimes referred to as the birthplace of the Titanic which was built in the Harland and Wolffe shipyard in Belfast and launched at the mouth of the Lagan before it made its way on its doomed maiden voyage.

Stretching a total of 90 kilometers, the River Lee flows eastwards across Co. Cork, rising in the Shehy Mountains in the west of the county and flowing the city of Cork before entering the Celtic Sea near Cobh. The Lee is synonymous with Cork sport with the Cork Gaelic Football and Hurling teams commonly referred to as “The Leesiders”. Numerous water-sports also take place on the River Lee including rowing, kayaking and swimming. Most notably the “Vibes & Scribes” Lee Swom, a 2000 meter swim for charity, takes place on an annual basis attracting thousands of spectators. The river also offers an 8 kilometer stretch of salmon fishing.

The Foyle The River Foyle is well known Irish river as it flows into the sea at Derry City in northern Ireland. A confluence of the rivers Finn and Mourne at the towns of Lifford in Co. Donegal and Strabane in County Tyrone, the river swells as it flows into Lough Foyle and finally into the Atlantic Ocean. The River Foyle is also the fastest flowing river in Europe for its size. A mooring facility is available for small yachts in Derry City. Sports on this river include canoeing, sailing and rowing. Swimming is prohibited here due to the strong currents.

The Munster Blackwater The Munster Blackwater, sometimes referred to as “The Irish Rhine”, iis one of Ireland’s longest rivers and in the Irish language is known as “An Abhainn Mhór”, “The Great River”. At approximately 170 kilometers long, the river rises in the Mullaghareirk Mountains in Kerry, flowing east through County Cork before turning sharply south at Cappoquin, Co. Waterford and entering the sea at Youghal Harbour. While it has been best known as a salmon fishing river, the fish stocks have sharply declined in recent years.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 8383

10 Longest Rivers of Ireland River Shannon River Barrow River Suir River Blackwater River Nore

386km 192km 184km 168km 140km

River Bann River Liffey River Slaney River Boyne River Lee

129km 125km 117km 112km 90km

The Shannon

The Corrib

Measuring 386 kilometers in length, the River Shannon is the longest river on the island of Ireland. Flowing in a southerly direction from where it rises in the Shannon Pot in Co. Cavan on the slopes of the Cuilcagh Mountain, it passes through ten different counties before entering the Atlantic Ocean at the Shannon Estuary in Limerick City. The river is significant from Irish historical, economic and social perspectives. As far back as the 10th century, Vikings used the Shannon to attack and raid Irish monasteries further inland. In the following centuries the Shannon played important roles in many of the battles and wars which took place in Ireland as it effectively divides the western part of Ireland from the east. The Shannon boasts much beautiful scenery along its course, and a wide variety of activities can be enjoyed in its waters including river cruises, watersports, etc.

The River Corrib is located in Co. Galway and is one of Ireland’s shortest rivers, a mere 6kilometers in length. Despite this, it is quite well-known as it flows through the heart of Galway City after travelling the short distance from Lough Corrib where it rises. The Corrib is also one of the most powerful rivers in Ireland and excellent for whitewater kayaking, although a certain amount of experience is advised here, given the level of difficulty. Rowing is also popular in this river, and river cruises take place regularly abord the “Corrib Princess”.

The Bandon The Bandon is a river located in Co. Cork. It rises in the Shehy Mountains in the west of the country and flows eastward through Dunmanway, Balineen, Enniskeane, Bandon and Inishannon to Kinsale Harbour. The river is a good fishing area and has an estimated catch of 1300 salmon and a similar catch of sea-trout per year.

The Bann The Bann is the longest river in Northern Ireland stretching a total of 129km from the Mourne Mountains in County Down to the northern coast of Ireland, entering the Atlantic Ocean at Portstewart. The Bann is unusual as it flows into the very large Lough Neagh at Bannfoot Co. Armagh before continuing its journey northwards. The river to the south of Lough Neagh is known as the Upper Bann, while the Lower Bann lies to the north of the Lough. Popular outdoor activities along the Bann including canoeing, rowing, water-skiing and angling. River cruises along the Bann are also available.

The Erne The River Erne is located in the north-west of Ireland, rising in Beaghy Lough in County Cavan and flowing in a general north-westerly direction. The Erne is approximately 120 kilometers in length and winds its way through a number of loughs including Upper and Lower Lough Erne. The river derives its name from Celtic mythology, from the name of a princess named Éirne. The Erne is also rememberd in a famous Irish ballad, “Buachaill Ó nÉirne”. Boating, water-sports and swimming also take place on the River Erne, in addition to trout fishing.

The Moy Rising in the Ox Mountains in County Sligo, the River Moy flows 110 kilometers through Sligo and Mayo before entering the Atlantic Ocean at Killala Bay. Along its winding course, it passes through the town of Ballina where it is a popular destination for anglers. The Moy Valley is very popular with tourists due to the numerous historic ruins, churches, abbeys and other sites of archaeological significance which can be seen in this area. The river Moy was once one of the best salmon fisheries in Europe, however, due to drift net fishing off the coast, salmon number declined dramatically. This eventually resulted in drift net salmon fishing being banned in 2006.

Limerick You're My Lady Your Shannon waters tears of joy that flows the beauty that surrounds you I think about you love where e're I go While waking in the arms of distant waters a new day finds me far away from home and Limerick You're My Lady the one true love that I have ever known The days when you and I spent endless days of fun in winter snows and summer's golden sun we fished in silver streams, the fabric of my dreams was fashioned by your loveliness so now I have to say CHORUS A gift that time has made to travellers on their way seeking out the beauty of our land a shrine where children play the bells ring out to say that's God that we're alive to see the freedom of each day

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 8787

LIMERICK LUIMNEACH Coming to Limerick city, from Kerry you are approaching the economic centre of the mid-west. Today Limerick is Ireland’s third largest city. Since it was first established by the vikings in the 10th century, for hundreds of years, Limerick has served as a premier port of Ireland opening as it does into the much travelled waters of the Shannon estuary.

Built as a port city, Limerick continues to be dominated by the impressive Shannon river. This river has been a hub of Irish trade and cultural life for centuries – appearing as it does on some of the most ancient maps of Ireland. Limerick has a rich cultural life and much of historical interest for you to explore. Visit the Hunt Museum to see one of Irelands finest collections of Art and antiquities dating from the Neolithic period right up to the 20th century. There are paintings in this Private collection on view from world renowned artists including Renoir, Picasso and Yeats. This is a must see for visitors to Limerick. Every year the famous Eva art festival takes place in Limerick featuring installations and public art pieces as well as a vibrant array of exhibitions throughout the town. Often referred to as Ireland's Sporting Capital, a visit to Limerick is a great opportunity to check out some sport whether it's football, hurling, rugby or greyhound racing- Limerick has it all. Delve into Limerick's history at the Limerick Museum where you can explore the artifacts and stories of the Shannon region's rich inheritance. Remains of Limerick’s castle remind us of the tumultuous 17th century Siege of Limerick, a pivotal point in the struggles between Ireland and England.

Step into a world of medieval Ireland at St. Mary's Cathedral – an 11th century building it is one of the oldest building that is still in daily use in Ireland. The famous Limerick Milk Market retains a charm of yesteryear – here you can sample the very best of fresh, wholesome local produce from Farmhouse cheeses to just-caught fish and artisan meats. A lovely place to relax and meet the locals on your visit to the city. Limerick is the home of international rock bank The Cranberries, the city continues to entertain so why not check out a gig and Limerick's night life: a host of talent awaits you If you fancy a bit of adventure, the Ballyhoura Bike trails offer a great escape not far from Limerick citythe largest trail network of its kind in Ireland you can enjoy many options for off road cycling in the mountains. Golfers have a number of award winning championship lush green courses to choose from. As always in Ireland, there are plenty of opportunities to step out of time in Limerick. At Lough Gur visitor centre you can hear the story of Pre-Celtic Ireland dating back to 3,000B.C. www.limerick.ie

The Limerick An effective tongue- twister, Limerick verse is often used by teachers to illustrate the subtleties of the English language. A short, humorous poem of five lines, the first and the second and fifth lines rhyme with each other. Also, the third and fourth lines. There are many theories as to the origins of these forms of poem – some suggest that it was thought up by soldiers returning to Limerick from France, others that it comes from the chorus “Will you come up to Limerick?” which was once sung at the end of improvised songs at Irish parties. In the 18th century, poets of the Maigue valley would meet and hold festivals at Croom on the river Maigue. Here they would customarily amuse themselves and their friends by concocting light, funny and often bawdy verses, which eventually became known as “poems from Limerick” or “limericks”! A flea and a fly in a flue Were caught, so what could they do? "Let us fly" said the flea. "Let us flee" said the fly. So they flew through the flaw in the flue. Anonymous “There was an Old Man with a beard Who said, 'It is just as I feared! Two Owls and a Hen, Four Larks and a Wren, Have all built their nests in my beard!’” Edward Lear “There was an old man from Peru Who dreamt he was eating his shoe. He awoke in a fright In the middle of the night And found it was perfectly true.” There once was a man from Nantucket Who drank all his beer from a bucket When his arms got too sore A friend gave him a straw And he said 'I will just have to suck it'.

90 90 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

LIMERICK

You will know that you have entered county Limerick when, leaving the dramatic mountains of Kerry the landscape begins to even out and an atmosphere of cool restraint displaces that of the riotous Kerry carnival of contrasts. Crossing into the county of Limerick along this great Atlantic route, you will travel alongside the great Shannon estuary looking west towards county Clare across the waters. Limerick has long been an economic stronghold of the west of Ireland and the trace of wealth, prestige and power remains in the many Medieval buildings, castles and fortresses that can be seen throughout the county today. Limerick is a county that has for millennia been a hub of commerce and cultural exchange. Dominated as it is by the Shannon river, this region has long had one eye to the lands beyond the sea to whom the mighty river brings access and wealth. Having its metropolis in the city of culture and history, Limerick has been a place of great power a seat of the Irish elite for generations. The Limerick coastline links Ireland’s southern and western regions offering scenic drive along the Shannon estuary, looking out to the Clare coast across the waters. Framed by the Galtee mountains to the south east, Limerick is primarily an agricultural county with low, undulating countryside. As you follow the road from Listowel to Limerick city you will pass through the fabulous town of Glin with its quiet charm and many beauty spots. The town also features Glin Castle, home to Ireland's romantically named “Knights of Glin”. The castle is owned by the Fitzgerald family who have lived in the area for 700 years. The castle itself is said to have a window for every day in the year and inside a beautiful and very rare double flying staircase. There have been very interesting characters among these fabled Knights, including “The Cracked

Knight” and “Knight of the Women”. The town of Foynes was a popular haunt for American socialites during the early days of aviation which is remembered today in the unique Flying Boat Museum, also the home of the famous “Irish Coffee’, which is another welcome treat on offer here. Venture further inland and you can delve into the past at the ancient Neolithic archaeological site at Lough Gur. Limerick made headlines worldwide in 1919, with the declaration of an “Independent Soviet Republic of Limerick”. This was founded, along with its own currency and newspaper, by workers objecting to British rule. It is said that they applied to join the Soviet Union but their form was never returned. The fledgling state was discontinued after just two weeks, but not before it’s wouldbe commissioners achieved worldwide publicity! Ireland's longest serving President, Eamonn De Valera (1882-1975) was brought up and went to school in the Limerick city village of Bruree. Although sentenced to death for his part in the Rising of 1916, De Valera was released because, being born in New York he could have been considered an American. His boyhood cottage at Bruree is now a National Monument. Limerick’s Ballyhoura Mountain Bike Park has 98km of scenic trails taking in forest road climbs, tight twisty single track, and technical rocky bits, so you

can unleash your inner adventurer. Bike rental is available in the area. Families can enjoy the scenic countryside on the Great Southern Trail greenway, a unique 96km (60 miles) stretch of countryside which follows the route of the former Limerick to Tralee/ Fenit railway line and includes a 40km long walking/cycling trail between the towns of Rathkeale and Abbyfeale. Just 18 kilometers south west of Limerick City you can visit the pretty town Adare (Áth Dara “place of the oak”) “Ireland's prettiest town” with its 12th century Castle and impressive Abbey. Touted as the friendliest town in Ireland, its quaint shops, gaily painted thatched houses, Adare is a great place to visit for all the family for a relaxing day out. Nearby Matrix Castle, built in 1400, is one of several places in Ireland where Walter Raleigh is said to have planted the first potato in Ireland. Heritage enthusiasts will not want to miss the acclaimed 15th century Bunratty Castle and 19th century Bunratty Folk Park where you will be transported to Ireland of times past. The castle is an impressive setting for the unique Medieval Banquets which are held hear all year round. At the charming town of Bruff you can visit the homeland of the Fitzgerald Kennedy dynasty whose sons made such an impact in U.S. history.

LIMERICK

Limericks people are known to be warm , witty and welcoming. Here is the birthplace of Sir Terry Wogan, author Frank McCourt, Billy Whelan of Riverdance, Actor Richard Harris and rock group The Cranberries to name but a few. www.Limerick.ie

At the Rigney’s farm, they hand rear Tamworth and Glouctesshire Old Spots, two rare pig breeds. The Tamworth are ginger pigs, an original Irish grazer, a breed that has been unchanged for hundreds of years. About fifty pigs are living on the farm at any one time – and Wednesdays and Thursdays are processing days. “It’s not easy, but you get used to it”, Caroline says with a smile.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 9393

KNOWING YOUR BACON

KNOWING

YOUR BACON “When you have collected a just-laid hen's egg, cuddled a baby piglet, fed a pony, visited happy pigs in the field, you have an experience to treasure for ever - tactile; genuine; sustainable; enriching; unforgettable” Caroline Rigney Caroline Rigney runs a B&B and working farm by Curraghchase woods in Limerick, a home to happy, pasture-fed, rare-breed animals living the way nature intended. The Rigneys serve up their home grown home cured bacon and eggs from their hens to guests at breakfast. This is an example of a bygone Ireland and a pastoral tradition that goes back centuries. “For a lot of farmers, the truck comes and it takes the milk away. They don’t know where it goes once it leaves their driveway. Does it get made into cheese, is it liquid milk, is it exported…?” says Caroline. At the Rigney’s farm however, careful attention is given to every part of the process from pasture to plate. The pigs are brought to a family run Cork abbatoir, one the family has long standing ties with. Caroline feeds her pigs with a recipe she has devised herself with Roches feeds. Apart from being used at the B+B, Caroline also sells at Listowel farmers market on a Friday, at Killalo market, Co. Clare on Sunday, at fairs, shows and other agri-food events, and privately. The meat is also served at the Stand hotel, Hook and Ladder and the sausages, rashers and puddings at La Chuchina in Limerick city. The quality of the meat is ensured through the patience, skill, time and attention that

Caroline has given to every aspect of the farming and production process. Having no farming background whatsoever, the skills to run a farm like this are the result of a lot of sharing of expertise from within the organic and alternative farming community. In Ireland today, the majority of farmers operate on a large scale and in a different farming culture to that employed by the Rigneys. It is clear that a lot of Ireland’s traditional farming knowledge was lost through the development of super pigs and super farms, but it is clear that through the efforts of people like Caroline, it is coming back to us, slowly. An admirer of Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall’s River Cottage, Caroline’s farming business has been developed as a complete package. Visitors can also visit nearby Curraghchase woods where the poets William Wordsworth and Alfred Lord Tennyson once walked. For those who enjoy the complete experience of knowing where their food is coming from, Rigney’s farm offers a rare insight into a world of quality and values. www.rigneysfarm.com

CLARE

TRIVIA The world famous boxer Muhammad Aliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Great Grandfather was Irish. Abe Grady was born in Ennis in 1842.

To Galway BALLYVAUGHAN BLACK HEAD PIER

FLAGGY SHORE

To Galway

Fanore Beach

R ARAINN MHOR EA AIIN A IN INS MEAIN INIS OIRR DOOLIN PIER

Lisdoonvarna

CLIFFS OF MOHAR LISCANNOR BAY

Lahinch

Ennistymon

Miltown Malby White Strand SPANISH POINT

Scarrif

Miltown Malby

Tulla

Ennis

MUTTON ISLAND VIEW Doonbeg White Strand

KILKEE CLIFFS

Corofin

Killaloe

Kilmihil

Kilkee

Kilrush

Sixmilebridge Shannon

Kildysart

Kilkee Beach KILLIMER BRIDGES OF ROSS

Cappa Pier CARRIGAHOLT SCATTERY ISLAND BAY

LOOP HEAD

Gort

Aran Islands

To Kerry

Lahinch

Kilkee

Ennis

N67

Killimer N69

Tarbert

Ballybunion N69

Shannon Limerick

Listowel

Tralee

Blue Flag Beaches on the Wild Atlantic Way

ngle Killarney

Towns Wild Atlantic Way Route WILD ATLANTIC WAY VIEWPOINTS

THE OCEAN’S GIFT We have witnessed the power of the sea in shaping ireland’s coast. We have felt the strength the strength of relentless waves, the crystal waters and foamy ocean sprays. The Wild Atlantic offers a unique experience and is it’s own reward. As the time honoured saying goes –“it is not the destination but the journey that matters” – and nowhere is this more true than here. Here at the periphery of Europe, at the edge of civilization we find a place where we can reflect on life itself. Here is where the sun sets and where the final rays of sunlight linger. You will have had your own experiences on this journey and I hope that this guide has been a helpful companion. Have you felt the wild spray of the Atlantic against your skin or tasted the salty sea on your lips? Man’s love for the sea is a call to experience with all our our senses this magical element of water – salty as the womb is, set upon a horizon that points us towards the infinite. As powerful as the human race has become, despite our technology, we can never hope to grasp this untamable force of nature. And yet we can embrace this humbling experience of nature’s power as a part of ourselves. Our bodies too are largely composed of this element of water. The emotional and even spiritual experience that the ocean can evoke in us is a reminder of our connection to all -all people and all places everywhere. Our connection with water is an elemental relationship. The gift of water is a gift of life. Like life itself, this journey along Ireland’s rugged coast has its many ups and downs, from the towering Cliffs of Moher, Achill and Sliabh Liagh to gentle sandy beaches where the waves softly

murmer and we too find rest and peace. You have seen the oceanic majesty and perhaps stood silent witness to this vast and terrible beauty of unfathomable depths. When faced with the Atlantic, we are perhaps also reminded of our own mortality. Looking out upon the vastness of the ocean we may feel small, fearful of the ocean’s power or aware of a danger lest we fall in to be swept away. And yet, this salty ocean is not unlike our first home – the womb. In having shared this time with Ireland’s wild western coast we travel as a vigil to the great mother of us all hinted at in the various names for the sea: “la mer”, “mara” , the mother of all life on earth. I hope you have been touched by something of the mystery, the magic and the majesty of these western landscapes of Ireland. Enchanting and beautiful, rugged and wild- they too have their stories. May you encounters with “áilleaht na mara” , “the beauty of the ocean”, along Ireland’s westen shores leave you emboldened, ennobled and enriched to face the world renewed. We trust that you may return once more to visit us, to breathe again the fresh sea air, and to leave your cares – to the wind…

"Go n’éirigh an bóthar leat!" May the rose rise to meet you

98 98 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

LIVING LONGBOWS

LIVING LONGBOWS Special feature

by:

Donal Mac Polin

Jack Pinson is a maker of traditional and historic longbows, living and working in Co. Clare. Keeping history alive and sparking imaginations to the life of bygone days is one aspect of his work but as we shall see, medieval heritage is alive and well, even today. There is archeological evidence of yew wood longbows in Ireland as far back as 940 CE, with the most intact specimen being the Ballinderry bow found in a Viking settlement excavated in county Offaly. There are wood cut depictions of Irish short bows from various eras throughout Irish history, but the medieval artillery bow arrived with the Norman influx. Every city in Ireland and lots of towns, as well, have archery clubs where members meet up to shoot regularly. There are multiple indoor and outdoor competitions in modern and traditional archery held every year. I spent the four years between 2011 and 2015 studying longbow making with Master Bowyer Don Adams, a retired bowyer of the Craft Guild of Traditional Bowyers and Fletchers. My apprenticeship to Don culminated with my successful presentation of assessment pieces to Craft Guild members in September 2015, when I became a Master Bowyer. Having been interested in archery and woodworking for as long as I can remember, I have managed to combine these two areas in the craft skill of bow making. Living Longbows is a name I came up with when considering a title for my traditional archery business. To me it has a two fold-meaning: that I live for bow making and that the bows are alive, at some level. There are

many different kinds of people who buy my longbows, from the archery enthusiast looking for handmade traditional equipment, to the historical re-enactor, or the committed heavyweight warbow archer. Making a recreational laminate longbow usually takes a minimum of about two weeks. Self-bows (made from a single piece of timber) can take a lot longer, especially when seasoning the wood. This extended period of making is mostly due to the need to let the bow stave rest between sessions of tillering (teaching the bow stave to bend evenly and gradually). Archery is a great sport which benefits hand eye coordination, positive body stance and posture, as well as discipline around safety considerations. The bows that I make are all hand-made from start to finish. This gives them a very pleasing aesthetic and a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;liveâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; feeling when shooting. A longbow really needs to be matched to the archer, therefore I recommend that interested individuals visit and try out what I have to offer for themselves. Visit my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/ LivingLongbows/

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 9999

CELTIC IRISH

BLESSING Through the tireless work of committed organisation such as tourism Ireland, Fáilte Ireland, and Discover Ireland, in partnership with countless local businesses, and tourism initiatives, Ireland’s unique western coastal route has been gaining renown worldwide. These once difficult-to-reach coastal communities can now be accessed with ease : but this brings a new responsibility. Just as the ‘leave no trace’ ethos is in nature, we can appreciate that culture of Ireland is rich as it is diverse because of our respect and care. What is ours to share is more than money can buy; let us care for this precious lands for future generations to enjoy.

“May the road rise to meet you, The wind be always at your back, May the sun shine warmly on your face, And the rain fall lightly on your fields, Until we meet again, May God hold you in the Palm of his hand”

Celtic Irish Blessing

100

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 101101

Venture West Situated on the cliff coast route of Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way, Hotel Woodstock is the ideal base to explore many of Ireland’s natural attractions. • 4 star Hotel Woodstock, boasting 67 tastefully decorated bedrooms. • Just sit back and enjoy the hotel bar and foyer and its spacious surroundings. • Enjoy a fine dining experience in our restaurant overlooking a splendid view of our golf course and stunning landscaped grounds. • Hotel Woodstock Leisure Club consists of a decked pool, kiddies pool, jacuzzi, steam room and sauna and our hotel gym has a full range of techno gym equipment.

It all makes Hotel Woodstock an ideal place for you to stay and relax in.

119

€

FROM

pps

2 NIGHTS BED AND FULL IRISH BREAKFAST PLUS 1 EVENING MEAL

175

€

FROM

pps

3 NIGHTS BED AND FULL IRISH BREAKFAST PLUS 2 EVENING MEALS

Rates based on Double/Twin occupancy - Single supplements apply. Terms & Conditions apply.

Email: reservations@hotelwoodstock.ie

hotelwoodstock.ie I (065) 689 9800

CLARE KERRY Shorter Crossing...Longer Memories!

Daily sailings between Killimer and Tarbert. Save money and miles with this 20 minute trip!

Galway Bay

Doolin

Gort

Aran Islands

Lahinch

Kilkee

Ennis

N67

Killimer

Shannon

N69

Tarbert

Ballybunion N69

Limerick

Listowel

Tralee Dingle Killarney

Your gateway to the

Kenmare

Cork

Bantry

Kinsale Clonakilty

Skibbereen

www.shannonferries.com tel: (065) 9053124

‘A gateway between the South and Mid-West’, Shannon Ferries offer a ferry service between counties Kerry and Clare, saving travellers a huge 137 kilometres of driving! Offering an unrivalled service to tourists and locals alike, allowing them to take in more of Ireland’s beautiful scenery and tourist hotspots with ease, Shannon Ferries links the picturesque Tralee and Dingle regions to the untamed beauty of the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher. Established in 1969 in response to the demand for a route across the Shannon Estuary from Kerry to Clare, the Shannon Ferries service now operates two ferries, the Shannon Breeze and the Shannon Dolphin, which depart from Tarbert in Co. Kerry to Killimer in Co. Clare. Ideally located on the Wild Atlantic Way, Shannon Ferries offers travellers a break from the road with their 20 minute passage across the Shannon. Aiming to promote tourism in Kerry and Clare, as well as surrounding regions, Shannon Ferries facilitate laid back, enjoyable travel.

www.shannonferries.com tel: (065) 9053124

102

Choose from the mixture of majestic mountains and ever changing coastlines, lakelands, woodlands and bustling towns in Kerry, or the equally majestic Atlantic coastline in Clare. Loop Head is one of the most remote and wonderful places in Ireland. The Loop Head Drive will take you to numerous scenic locations as well as to cliff angling spots. The County of Limerick is a place of rural charm and great beauty, with a gently undulating landscape that varies from the mountains of Ballyhoura in the Golden Vale to the Shannon Estuary. With Shannon Ferries, the possibilities are endless and there is something to suit everyone! The service accommodates pedestrian passengers, cyclists, cars, coaches, mini-buses, and commercial vehicles, with ticket prices starting at €4.50. Throughout the summer months, the ferries run from 7.00am to 9.30pm. Visit www.Shannonferries.com.

 The Ocean at your Feet  Wild Coastal Landscapes  Energizing Activities

 Mellow Country Living  A Variety of Attractions  Delicious Daily Menus

And a Great Clare Welcome!

Bellbridge House Hotel, Spanish Point, Miltown Malbay, County Clare, Ireland.

Tel: + 353 65 7084038 | eMail: info@bellbridgehotelclare.com | www.bellbridgehotelclare.com

boasts a fantastic exhibition, audio visual film theatre, local craft show and tea room.

“Trace the music & history of “Trace the music & history of The Kilfenora Band at The Burren Centre.” Kilfenora Band

The visitor centre in the historic village of Kilfenora boasts

history of the Burren in the Burren Centre. Services: Tourist Information Point, Free Explore the flora, fauna, archaeology & natural parking, Beside Kilfenora High Maps Guides history of the Burren in the Burren Crosses, Centre. all BurrenIfreference you are looking for a& country house weekend or relaxed hotel accommodation, available in craft shop. Services: Tourist Information Point, local craft show and tea room.

then a few nights stay at our hotel in

Free parking, Beside Kilfenora High Doolin, Co Clare, is just right for you. We offer luxury accommodation Crosses, all Burren reference Maps & Guides o pening t imes: Midand March to at MayBallinalacken 10am to 5pm;Castle Hotel, style available in craft shop. June, July & a ugust 9.30am to 5.30pm; September to full bed and breakfast and dining in 30 ourmin award Last Admission beforewinning closing restaurant.

Opening times: Mid March to May 10am to 5pm; We are situated 3 miles from Doolin village and within June, July & August 9.30am to 5.30pm; easy reach of the Cliffs of Moher, the Aran Islands, Connemara Burren Centre, Kilfenora, Co. Clare & Galway, it would be difficult to find a more September to October 10am to 5pm; beautiful place on the West Coast of Ireland in which to Last Admission 30 min before closing wake up. The Ballinalacken has been described in the press Telephone:

E-mail: info@theburrencentre.ie Kilfenora, Co. Clare.  065–708 8030

as one of the finest located houses in Europe. Our guest rooms offer spectacular panoramic views of the Aran Islands, the Cliffs of Moher and Galway Bay.

BURREN CENTRE, KILFENORA, CO. CLARE

Telephone: 065-708 8030 Fax: 065-708 8102 E-mail: info@theburrencentre.ie Website: www.theburrencentre.ie

Ballinalacken Castle Country House Hotel, Doolin, Co Clare, Ireland Tel: 065 7074025 Email: info@ballinalackencastle.com Web: ballinalackencastle.com

103

At the Heart of the Wild Atlantic Way The Gateway to the Cliffs of Moher & Burren Geopark

WWW.FALLSHOTEL.IE | Tel: 065 7071004 | e-mail: reservations@fallshotel.ie

Falls Hotel & Spa As one of the finest hotels in Clare, the Falls Hotel & Spa is nestled in a wooded vale beside the tumbling waters of the River Inagh in the quaint town of Ennistymon, just 10 minutes from the majestic Cliffs of Moher. It is surrounded by 50 acres of grounds and has wonderful riverside and woodland walks around the property. At the heart of the Wild Atlantic Way, the hotel is perfectly located to soak up all the wild natural attractions from Loop Head to The Burren & The Cliffs of Moher Geopark, and everything in between. Beaches, surfing, walking, climbing, potholing, exploring - all on their doorstep. The hotel has 140 bedrooms, nine self catering apartments. The award winning luxurious River Spa is a haven within the Aqua & Fitness Club â&#x20AC;&#x201C; leave time for their Thermal Suite and stunning relaxation room! The

104

Club itself has a 20-meter swimming pool, Jacuzzi, steam room, hydro therapy pool, childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pool, a sauna and outdoor hot tub overlooking the river and a large gymnasium - everything for the perfect breakaway! The hotel is privately owned and managed by the McCarthy Family and you will always receive a warm and friendly welcome when staying. The Falls Hotel & Spa can be contacted on 065 707 1004 or on www.fallshotel.ie.

The Burren, County Clare

6,000 years of history excitingly captured! Discover authentic artefacts, colourful text panels and touch-screen inter-actives in the Riches of Clare exhibition. Opening Hours:

October to May: Tuesday to Saturday 9.30 - 13.00 (last admissions 12.30) and 14.00 to 17.00 June to September: Monday to Saturday 9.00 - 13.00 (last admissions 12.30) and 14.00 to 17.00

Closed Bank Holidays weekends.

Clare Museum, Arthurâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Row, Ennis, County Clare.

105

Untitled-4 1 WildAtlanticWay.indd 1

106

27/01/2017 14:37:33 24/01/2017 16:20

“Our Favourite stay in all of Ireland” - Robert and Seam Brunelli, Boston MA, USA

Aran View Country House, Doolin, Co. Clare, Ireland Tel: +353 65 707 4061 | Fax: +353 65 707 4540 | Email: info@aranview.com

www.aranview.com

107

m. 0a

Ope n

ly from i a d 1 C

a ill w e e c a v

CMY

Welcoming Visitors to the Burren for over 40 years Aillwee Cave and its Birds of Prey Centre, Ballyvaughan, Co. Clare is a very special place in the heart of the Burren. Let our knowledgeable guides at Aillwee welcome you to the dramatic underworld of this unique landscape. Your tour consists of a 35 minute guided walk through beautiful caverns, over bridged chasms, under weird formations and alongside the thunderous waterfall which sometimes gently sprays the unsuspecting visitor. Marvel at the frozen waterfall and explore the hibernation chambers of the long extinct brown bears.

Visit the Birds of Prey Centre, home to one of the largest and most varied collection of Birds of Prey in Ireland – Eagles, Falcons, Hawks, Owls, and Vultures. Our expert Falconers are always available to help you understand these amazing Raptors and let you know about all the conservaton programmes that are ongoing both nationally and internationally. Audio guides and information boards also give detailed information on all our residents. Daily Flying displays provide a rare opportunity to see many of these wonderful species in dramatic free ﬂight set against the Burren Landscape. Book a Hawk Walk – A once in a lifetime opportunity to interact with one of nature’s top predators. Guided and instructed by your experienced falconer, this hour long “Walk with a Hawk” through Hazel Woodland and across Burren Limestone pavement is tailor made for anybody seeking a totally unique experience. At our Farm Shop, watch cheese being made. The Burren in North Clare is the birthplace of this Award Winning Farmhouse Cheese, Burren Gold@

Aillwee. This wonderful cheese has won numerous Gold and Silver Medals at

various national and international cheese fairs. Burren Gold is a firm textured Gouda style cheese with a rich creamy taste. It comes in a variety of flavours:Plain, Smoked, Cumin, Garlic & Nettle, Black Pepper and for something a little more exotic—Piri Piri. Why not pop in to the Farmshop at Aillwee Cave and taste some delicious Burren Gold Cheese! You may even be lucky enough to see our cheese maker at work. Relax in the friendly Tearoom with a coffee and scone or drink a glass of wine on the terrace and see the most breathtaking views of Galway Bay along the Wild Atlantic Way. Browse our two wonderful Gi� Shops to find that something special from our extensive range of crafts, souvenirs and knitwear.

Open daily from 10am. For more details check out our website, www.aillweecave.ie

110 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 111111

IRISH THATCHED COTTAGES

IRISH THATCHED COTTAGES Special feature

by:

Liam Broderick

There is an inexplicable joy in encountering an Irish thatched cottage. Indeed, no other symbol of Ireland so conjures a sense of Irish welcome: a turf fire burning, freshly baked bread, the old lady waiting at the half door. At one time, Ireland was dotted with such picturesque dwellings, built of stone and sometimes earth and capped with straw or reed. Thatched cottages were homes for the ordinary farming people. As such, it was once considered a poor man’s option to thatch the house. Richer folk would have used slate on their stately homes as it was not part of the fashion to include thatch. On a practical level however, a thatched roof offers superior insulation to slate and across the hills and valleys of Ireland, a cosy retreat during the storms of winter. The nature of rural life saw to it that the raw material of thatching, mostly straw, was readily available in plentiful supply. According to Liam Broderick, reeds came to be more widely used in the sixties and today the use of reed has entirely overtaken that of straw for thatchers. Reed, of course, is more water-resistant, being a plant grown in the marshes. The knowledge of reed harvesting was passed down from father to son for generations and continues to this day particularly along the river Shannon basin in Limerick. I spoke to Liam Broderick who offered some insights into the life of an Irish thatcher today. Liam has completed work for the OPW, the Irish Georgian Society and the Heritage Council in all parts of Ireland. He describes himself as the youngest thatcher working in Ireland today and, while demand is high, he has been concerned for the future of the craft in Ireland. Thatching is big business in England and there is a demand in Ireland for experienced thatchers here. As one cannot train here to a high

standard, an opportunity is being lost. “I bought an old cottage and decided to do it up. An old man of 76 did the thatching and I decided to train in it myself. A person could be paying €2,000 euros a year for a thatched house whereas it would be €300 for an average house. There are numerous benefits to having a thatched roof however. Apart from the obvious beauty of the traditional thatched roof there is the practical advantage of the warmth and natural insulation such a roof provides. Heat rises and the thatch really keeps that heat inside the building. Thatching is not your normal job today, it’s very weather dependent and you could be working 12-14 hours a day, working straight for 10-12 weeks. A hundred years ago, thatching would have been undertaken through a meitheal, whereby the locals would come together and enjoy the process helping one another. A farmer would also maintain his own thatched roof and thus as such there were no specialist thatchers. You can still see these picturesque cottages dotted around the country today. With thanks to Irish thatcher Liam Broderick. www.IrishThatchedCottages.com

112 112 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 113113

NOBLES OF THE FOREST

NOBLES OF THE FOREST Special feature

by:

Sharon Ní Chuilibín

In this article you will learn about Ireland's native trees and Ireland's Gaelic past at the place where culture and nature meet. There are some particularly special trees that you can visit as you travel along the Wild Atlantic Way. Opposite the Heritage Centre at Tuamgraney, there is an old driveway to the forest of Suidain, the ancient oak, wild wood of the Sliabh Aughty Mountains of east Clare and south east Galway. Standing majestically on its own here is the famous Brian Boru oak. This tree is reputedly 1,000 years old. No one knows who planted the tree - maybe it was Brian Boru himself. With a girth of twenty-six feet below its lowest branches, it is one of the oldest, and best known oaks in the country. As long ago as the 10th century Brian Boru, in his initial wars with the Vikings, had his headquarters in these Sliabh Aughty woods, in Co. Clare. Of all the trees that grow today in Ireland, a few deserve special attention. Ireland's 'native' trees, include the Birch, Rowan, Willow, Alder, Ash, Elder and of course Oak. The importance of these trees in Gaelic Ireland was such that in Ireland's Brehon laws, those who would damage these trees faced severe punishments. Trees were a part of everyday life in more ways than you would expect! Ireland's children would have sounded the letters of the Irish alphabet as late as the 1820's with the names of Ireland's native trees – those who were fortunate enough to receive a hedge school education. In later years, Ireland's native alphabet was changed in order from the original 'Beith-Luis- Nuin (Birch-Rowan-Ash)' to the A-B-C's we know today. Trees also feature prominently in the folk-belief and customs of Ireland and served some special functions in daily life. A peeled willlow rod for instance, was comonly wrapped around a milk churn, 'to keep the profit in the milk' in other words- ensure it didn't spoil. Modern science has proven that willlow contains salicylic acid an active ingredient in Aspirin prevents bacterial infection. Far from being mere naieve supersitition, the effectiveness of this ancient custom has been proven today. In Ireland there are a number of beliefs that may defy logic but

are intrinsically part of who we are. One famous incident was in 1999 when construction on a national road from Galway to Limeick was delayed and finally rerouted to protect a fairy hawthorn tree that stood in its path. Stories abound of misfortunes visited on those who risked disturbing lone howthorn trees. There have been many incidences in the past where digger drivers have refused to touch them, despite threats of sacking. There is no doubt that these trees have a remarkable power about them. At Coole Park just outside Galway town you can visit another special tree at the former domain of Lady Gregory. In a walled garden at Cool there is an Autograph Tree, carved with the names of some of the bright lights of Ireland's cultural revival scene including poet WB Yeats, playwright Bernard Shaw, J.M Synge and the mystic and author AE. Just as all trees share the same earth – we too share a common destiny. Like the great Brian Ború oak, Ireland's roots grow deep. There are a number of National parks along the Wild Atlantic Way where you can enjoy the full variety of Ireland's native trees. These include stunning National Parks in Killarney, the Burren, Connemara, Ballycroy and Glenveagh. These specially designated and environmentally protected areas are home to a wide range of plant and wildlife. While you enjoy the beauty of the great outdoors, please remember to observe the guidelines of Leave no Trace. To learn more visit www.croiglas.org/crann óg

CELTIC REVIVAL

A Story of Ireland’s Traditional

The native music of many a once-colonised country may rest in obscurity, displaced by the obedient rhythms of a dominant culture. Were it not for the composer, writer and musician- pioneer, Seán ‘O Riada, born one “John Reedy”, Irish Traditional music may not occupy the pivotal role it carries today. Just as memory ceases to become collective memory as stories stop being passed down through generations, the practice of playing traditional music had come to be frowned upon in polite Irish society: disregarded as part of what was then considered a backward and downtrodden culture. Tradition in all forms was once associated with the poor of the wild atlantic seaboard. Until a revival took form in the mid-20th century. Seán ‘O Riada, a classically trained musician, took an unprecedented u-turn in his own personal life. Ó Riada was not content to simply continue in the vein of imitation – seeking approval from the established culture or limiting his own self-expression to the accepted vocabularies of the centrally progressive. As ”John Reedy”, a successful composer,

114

broadcaster and university lecturer, he moved his family from urban Cork to the rural Gaeltacht region of Baile Mhuirne a wellspring of tradition where the Irish language continued to be eloquently spoken. This is a place of deep spirituality, song and learning. He changed his name to “Seán Ó Riada”. He started to speak the Irish language and to seek inspiration in the deeply rooted culture of that Gaeltacht community. At this time the wellconnected composer, author and a lecturer at University College Cork, deliberately set about reclaiming a voice for Ireland, while planting another seed of cultural resurgence. Through taking a cultural stand, Ó Riada formed new ground for a revival of Ireland’s consciousness. He opened a way for countless Irish people who have followed his example, authentically turning towards their roots – integrating what once was cast aside; a voice of song at Ireland’s heart. It was an opening that brings the Irish story into international relevance: how many other cultures, other songs, have been forgotten in the march of progress and amnesia ?

In his score for the film Mise Éire ( I am Ireland), Irish Traditional music role to popularity among the general Irish public. The film was named after a famous poem by the Irish patriot Pádraig Pearse. Documenting the rise of Ireland from British colony to Nation State, through use of archival footage, the film shows the birth of Ireland anew. For the film’s soundtrack, Ó Riada used the traditional song airs of Ireland, presenting them through orchestral sound. As Ireland had no film industry of its own at that time, the film Mise Éire gave form to a new sense of Ireland, an Ireland that had only just awoken . Ó Riada became a household name and what was once a marginalized national culture sounded a triumphant note of celebration.

“This is a place of deep spirituality, song and learning. ” > Celtic Revival, Ireland’s rich tradition of folklore and mythology

115

The West Coast Of Clare (originally by Andy Irvine)

Sorrow and sadness, bitterness, grief Memories I have of you Won't leave me in peace My mind was running back To the west coast of Clare Thinking of you And the times we had there I walked to Spanish Point I knew I'd find you there I stood on the white strand You were everywhere Vivid memories fade But the mood still remains I wish I could go back And be with you again In Milltown there's a pub Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s there that I sat down I see you everywhere Your face is all around The search for times past Contains such sweet pain I'll banish lonesome thoughts But theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll return again I walk along the shore The rain in my face My mind is numb with grief Of you there is no trace I'll think of this again In far off lands I roam Walking with you By this cold Atlantic fog Sorrow and sadness, bitterness, grief Memories I have of you Won't leave me in peace My mind was running back To the west coast of Clare Thinking of you And the times we had there.

116

The West Coast Of Clare

117

Clare Roadtrip Cliffs of Moher

Stretching for 8 km and with a sheer drop into the sea of 214 metres, this natural wonder can literally take your breath away. Go on a windy day and you will see...

“Hags Head” is a name given to the most southerly point of the Cliffs of Moher in Ireland where cliffs form a remarkable rock formation resembling a woman's head looking out to sea.

The cliffs are also the site of the aptly named Atlantic Edge interpretive centre. Built into the side of sloping grass land and showing displays which examine the various elements of the cliffs, your experience to another level. Those of a sensitive nature may wish to sit at the back if you decide to view ‘The Ledge’, a film shown on a wrap-around screen as the camera zooms around and down over the cliffs – it can induce vertigo!

According to legend, an old woman, Mal, fell in love with the Irish hero, Cú Chulainn and chased her would-be suitor across Ireland. Cú Chulainn however, made his escape by hopping across sea stacks as if they were stepping stones. As Mal was not so nimble, she lost her footing and was dashed against the cliff. A tower stands at the Hag's Head known locally as Moher Tower.

The River Shannon Abha na Sionainne / an tSionainn / an tSionna

Kilrush Cill Rois "Church of the Woods" A listed Heritage Town of Ireland, Kilrush is a picturesque market town and port. Looking offshore you may catch a glimpse of a large pod of Bottlenose dolphins, resident yearround in the estuary Kilrush. Having first been settled as a town in the 16th century Kilrush saw major development in the 18th century under the influence of the Dutch Vandeleur family. Once the most prominent landlord family in West Clare, the De Vandeleurs constructed the towns’ layout and today many streets now bare their names. The Western Yacht club, located here is one of the oldest yacht clubs in the world. A 1500 year old monastic settlement is located on Scattery Island in the Shannon estuary which you may visit - it is about 15 minutes from Kilrush by boat. The settlement was founded by St. Senan. Here you will find one of the oldest and tallest round towers in Ireland.

Cliffs of Moher Aillte an Mhothair

118

Shannon is Ireland’s longest river at 360.5 km (224 miles). In the geography of Ireland this body of water is a major physical barrier between east and west, with fewer than thirty crossing-points between Limerick city in the south and the village of Dowra in the north. So named after the goddess and granddaughter of Lir, Sionna (older spelling: Sínann or Sínand ) - Shannon has played a crucial role in Ireland’s history. This ancient waterway has been an important entry point to Ireland since antiquity, having first been mapped by the Graeco-Egyptian geographer Ptolemy. According to the medieval Book of Lismore, the Shannon hosts a river monster named Cata, We are told that Senán, the patron saint of County Clare, defeated the monster at Inis Cathaigh. Cata is described as a large and gruesome monster with a horse's mane, gleaming eyes, thick feet, nails of iron and a whale's tail.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 119119

A quiet and picturesque village, Doonbeg sports the worldrenowned Trump International Golf Club and fine sandy beaches. From here you can embark on a number of loop walks of varying challenge through the wild and captivating scenery. For ice-cream flavoured with sea buckthorn, wild hazelnuts, Burren stout or ‘Irish Coconut (yellow gorse flowers) why not visit Bríd and Roger Fahy’s Café Linnalla (linnallaicecrea.ie) on Clare’s Flaggy Shore.

Fanore Fánóir, Fán Óir "the golden slope" With a fabulous sandy beach set against the dramatic burren landscape, Fanore is a memorable spot to relax and be refreshed in the wild Atlantic air. For those familiar with Irish television, the Father Ted series often featured scenes filmed in Fanore and its surrounding villages.

Ballyvaughan Baile Uí Bheacháin Beachán's townland"

"Ó

Ballyvaughan is a charming harbour village in the northwest corner of the Burren. Here you can visit celtic ring forts such as Caherconnell Stone Fort, medieval churches and castles. Another point of interest is the famous Poulnabrone dolmen of megalithic origins, located 8km south of the town. Why not take and air and join the many Botanists and Naturalists who are to be found roaming this lunar landscape. You may be rewarded with a glimpse of the rare Arctic, Alpine and Mediterranean plants that grow in profusion over the limestone pavements of the Burren. If you are adventurous you can visit Aillwee Cave, a show cave over 1 kilometre (0.6 miles) long. More serious enthusiasts will want to venture further to explore Poll na gColm (the Pigeon hole), Faunarooska, and the Cullaun series of caves.

Quin Cuinche "five ways" Once upon a time there were five roads out of this village - and this gave rise to the name. Today, the ruined but still impressive, Quin Abbey, is classed as one of the finest and most complete remains of monastic antiquity in Ireland and is open to the public. The present ruined Abbey was founded in 1433 and housed many Franciscan monks until 1820 when the last monk, Father Hogan, died. The abbey was built on the foundations of an earlier Norman castle and the foundations of its corner towers are still to be seen. Earlier remains of a monastic settlement date to 1250 but this was burned to the ground in 1278. Quin was a Prehistoric centre for skilled Irish metalworkers and gold in particular.

Spanish Point Rinn na Spáinneach Named after the Spanish who died here in 1588. Ships of the Spanish Armada were wrecked off the rugged coastline in high seas. Spanish point golf course here is over 110 years old. Thomas Moroney built the Atlantic Hotel here in the early nineteenth century. For a time it was renowned as the largest hotel in the British Isles and a holiday resort of the aristocracy. Today, only a small portion of the hotel’s ruin remains, a memento from a bygone era. Spanish Point continues to supply world class accommodation and fine dining. You will have plenty of opportunities to sample the fantastic local seafood fare.

Clare Roadtrip Lahinch or Lehinch An Leacht or Leacht Uí Chonchubhair "The Memorial cairn of O'Connor". Lahinch is a small town on Liscannor Bay, on the northwest coast of Clare. A popular and celebrated seaside resort Lahinch is also home to the world-famous Golf club that bares its name. Also famous as a surfing location, here you can attend surfing school here or try out other popular water-sports such as windsurfing or kitesurfing. The town has ancient origins having been recorded by the Annals of the Four Masters as Leith Innse - a variant of the Irish word for a peninsula leithinis ("half island") referring to the village's location between the Inagh River and the sea.

Liscannor Lios Ceannúir "ringfort of Ceannúr Cill MacCreiche (Kilmacreehy) Church, dating to the 6th century, is celebrated as one of the most ancient ecclesiastical ruins in County Clare. According to legend, Baoth Bronach (king of ancient Corcomroe) gave the site for the church. It is said the inhabitants of the place, at the time, pointed out a spot on the strand, below the church, which they called Saint MacCreehy’s ”bed”. Locals have claimed that further out along the coast to be the submerged church and town of Kilstapheen. Indeed, it is on record that shortly after the time of MacCreehy there was a tidal wave/earthquake that was responsible for the loss of some two thousand people on the Miltown Coast . If you wish to visit this enchanted island, you shall have to find the golden key of Kilstapheen which is said to lay under the tomb of Conan (one of Finn mac Cumhail warriors)! A holy well dedicated to St. Bridgit Dabhach Bhríde is found near here by the Cliffs of Moher in an area of great scenic beauty. Behind the well on a higher level, to which steps lead, is an ancient cemetery in which the Uí Bhrian (‘O Briens), the Kings of Dál gCais, are buried.

120

The Spanish Armada At least 30 ships of Philip of Spain’s mighty armada, sent to invade England in the summer of 1588, perished along the coast of Ireland, mainly along the western seaboard. The oar-powered galleass Zuñiga anchored off-shore at Liscannor with a broken rudder, having found a gap in the Cliffs of Moher. The ship came under surveillance by the sheriff of Clare and by crown forces and had to withdraw to their ship. One captive was taken and sent for interrogation. The Zuñiga escaped the coast with favorable winds, moored at le Havre, and finally made it home to Naples in the following year.

Doolin Dúlainn A charming seaside town set against the rugged Atlantic, Doolin’s proximity to the bare limestone of the Burren makes it a place of breathtaking beauty. This town bears an international ambience and sure practice in giving a warm welcome to visitors. Here you are a mere 8km from the Cliffs of Moher. Another noted surfing location- a break which generates Irelands biggest wave, 'Aill na Searrach', can be seen here just off the Cliffs of Moher and featured in the film “waveriders”. A centre for Irish traditional music, you will find sessions nightly in the pubs here. There are numerous nearby archaeological sites, many dating to the Iron Age. The castles of Doonagore and Ballinalacken are not far away. The Great Stalactite, measuring 7.3 metres discovered in 1952 is to be seen in Doolin Cave, thought to be the longest stalactite in the Northern hemisphere.

Doonbeg An Dún beag “The little Fort” A quiet and picturesque village, Doonbeg sports the worldrenowned Trump International Golf Club and fine sandy beaches. From here you can embark on a number of loop walks

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 121121

Foynes Faing This busy Port on the Southern bank of the Shannon estuary has much to offer by way of history. A final landing site for planes bound for America in the 1930’s and 40’s, Foynes became one of Europes’ biggest civilian airports during WW2. Stop and visit the Flying Boat museum to learn more about this towns’ pivotal role in aviation history - Charles’ Lindberg’s famous “Flying Boats”. Foyne’s is also the place where the world-famous beverage known as “Irish Coffee” was first enjoyed - reputedly to alleviate the sufferings of cold and wet aviators of the late 1930’s.

Miltown Malbay (Kilfarboy) Cill Fear Buí “Stones of the Yellow Man” To the east rises the summit of Slievecallan a place of ancient heritage. From here, cliffs extend along the coastline as far as Spanish Point so called as part of the Spanish Armada was wrecked here on the coast. On the south side of Slievecallan there is a large cromlech, or druidical altar which is well preserved. It is thought that this was dedicated to the sun, and it is called “Darby and Gráinne’s Bed” by the local people. There are two smaller cromlechs nearby, and the remains of a stone rath, or fort. The town comes to life each year for the famous Willie Clancy Summer School - an annual celebration traditional music. Streets close and pubs swell and strain to the sounds of a thousand reels. This region is especially rich in musical heritage and the locals provide much in the way of encouragement for budding musicians.

Kilkee Cill Chaoi "Church of Chaoineadh Ita – lamentation for Ita" The horseshoe bay in which the town is found is protected from the Atlantic Ocean by the Duggerna Reef. As you face onto the horseshoe shaped bay, take the path that leads away on the lefthand side. The beach gives way to flat rocks and you may see quite a few of the hardier locals who can be found swimming in the pools left by the receding tide. Here a yearly skinny dip for Cancer is held where brave survivors, patients, family and friends bite the cold Atlantic and bare all. The path then takes a sharp turn upwards as the steep cliff faces come into view, with several stacks left isolated by erosion. Look closer and you will see that one of the stacks even has the ruin of a dwelling perched on the top! Once you’ve been to the windswept cliffs, return to the warmth and sample the fine cakes at the popular Diamond Rocks Café. Kilkee was a small fishing village until a paddle steamer service was launched connecting the town with the busy merchant city of Limerick.

Shipwreck On 30 January 1836 a ship from Liverpool bound for New Orleans the Intrinsic was blown into a bay near Bishops Island in Kilkee. The ship was dashed repeatedly against the cliffs and sank along with her crew of 14, of whom none survived. The shipwreck site is now called 'Intrinsic Bay'. Exactly 50 years to the day after the Intrinsic sank, the Fulmar sank just north of Kilkee in an area known as Farrihy Bay on 30 January 1886, . The Fulmar was a cargo vessel transporting coal from Troon in Scotland to Limerick, but never reached its destination. Only one body was ever recovered of a crew of 17. For golfing enthusiasts you will find a number of courses to choose from here. The East End of the town is home to an 18hole golf course. The first and second tees overlook the Atlantic Ocean and the third tee overlooks Chimney Bay. Other golf clubs in close vicinity to the town are Doonbeg Golf Club and Lahinch Golf Club, both world renowned links courses.

Cliffs Of Moher, County Clare Photo by Elias Ehmann on Unsplash.com

anvil FARM GUESTHOUSE

6,000 years of history excitingly captured! Discover authentic artefacts, colourful text panels and touch-screen inter-actives in the Riches of Clare exhibition. Opening Hours:

October to May: Tuesday to Saturday 9.30 - 13.00 (last admissions 12.30) and 14.00 to 17.00 Anvil Farm Guesthouse is a 5 Bedroom country-style guesthouse located in scenic Loop Head Peninsula on the West Coast of Ireland. We provide either Bed & Breakfast or Self Catering facilities for up to 10 persons.

Anvil Farm Guesthouse, Kilbaha, Kilrush, Co. Clare. Telephone 065-9058018 / 087-3141791

www.westclare.net

June to September: Monday to Saturday 9.00 - 13.00 (last admissions 12.30) and 14.00 to 17.00

Closed Bank Holidays weekends.

Clare Museum, Arthurâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Row, Ennis, County Clare.

Curious about how we smoke our salmon? Discover our first kiln and our unique salmon mosaics. Taste our freshly Smoked Organic Salmon from Irish waters and enjoy more culinary delights.

We are open every day core opening times 10am - 5pm Lisdoonvarna, Co. Clare V95 HD70

ph. +353 (0)65 7074 432

www.burrensmokehouse.ie

DON’T JUST VISIT

charcoal grilled foods. All ingredients are seasonal and as locally sourced as possible.

THE BURREN TASTE IT!

The Burren Food Trail is more than a listing of quality food establishments in the area – it aims to uncover for you the path that your food takes from field to plate. You have the choice between restaurants, cafés or artisan food producers.

“Don’t just visit the Burren - taste it!”

The food businesses among the Burren Ecotourism Network members have created a very special trail, the Burren Food Trail, and the Burren Smokehouse is of course part of it. The Trail was honoured as the Irish winner of the 2015 EDEN (European Destination of Excellence) Award for developing a tourism offering based on their culinary offer. The Burren area was also awarded The Foodie Towns Awards 2015. All the Food Trail members are passionate about food, growing and producing it locally for you to enjoy. In Lisdoonvarna alone there is a great food offering starting with the Burren Smokehouse visitor centre, and the 150 year old Roadside Tavern next door in which Kieran’s Kitchen delights with well-known dishes that are cooked and presented with a modern, Irish twist. In a wonderful and complementing contrast, another venue right next to the Roadside Tavern opened recently, called the Burren Storehouse. Since it’s opening, it has already become a favourite with locals and visitors to the region alike. The food offering spans from mouth-watering pizzas to

Members of the Burren Ecotourism Network create interesting events and rare looks behind the scenes, all to do with the Burren and food. Each week in summer, something else takes place in a different venue in the Burren: the Burren Food Trail Mondays.

The Burren Smokehouse, Lisdoonvarna, Co. Clare, Ireland +353 65 7074432 | www.burrensmokehouse.ie @BurrenFoodTrail

GALWAY

124

TRIVIA Lough Corrib in Galway has an island for every day of the year -365 in total. Muckanaghederdauhaulia (22 letters) in County Galway is the longest placename in Ireland. It is a townland and port and is the longest port name in the world! There are 120 recognised saints buried in the churchyard of St Eanna on the Aran island of Inismore. The sun sets in Galway a full hour after it sets in London.

INISBOFIN ISLAND

To Mayo

CRUMP ISLAND VIEW

KILLARY HARBOUR SOUTH

OMEY ISLAND

Kylemore

SKY ROAD

Clonbur

DERRIGIMAGH

Tuam

Cliften BUNOWEN BAY GORTEEN BAY

Oughterard

GORT MOR

OILEAIN FINIS

Carraroe LIEITIR MOIR CAUSEWAY

GALWAY CITY Athenry

AN SPIDEAL

Trรก an Dรณilin CEIBA AN TSRUTHAN

Trรก Mhรณr, Coill Rua

Silver Strand

Salthill Traught Beach

Cill Mhuirbhigh ARAINN MHOR

To Clare

INS MEAIN INIS OIRR

Ballinasloe

RINVILLE PARK

Loughrea

Portumna

Kinvara Gort

Blue Flag Beaches on the Wild Atlantic Way Towns Wild Atlantic Way Route WILD ATLANTIC WAY VIEWPOINTS

125

THE HUMBLE OYSTER You may either love them or hate them, but there are probably a few things you don’t know about this tasty, slimy and expensive seafood. If you are a pregnant woman, it is good to know that you are not meant to eat raw oysters – cooked oysters are still ok. Oysters are certainly good for your health and rich in zinc, which is great for making you feel good and keeping up your energy. Zinc is also the reason the humble oyster is known worldwide as an aphrodisiac. It has other benefits too, it enhances your immune system, helps get rid of acne, eases rashes and even makes your bones stronger. While there are over a hundred acknowledged varieties of oyster, these come from only five species; Pacific Oysters (or Japanese Oyster), Kumamoto Oysters, European Flat Oysters, Atlantic Oysters and Olympia Oysters. Of these, it is the Atlantic species which is celebrated in Galway. This looks like a comma or tear drop and tends to be on the larger side. The European Flat has a large, straight shell with fine ridges but the Pacific Oysters are smaller with wavy casings. Kumamotos are also smaller, and the shell is rounder and pale, which is similar to the Olympias oyster, though this one has a smoother shell with a bit of iridescent coloring. It is a little known fact that the humble oyster filters about 30 to 50 gallons of water a day. This makes these little creatures not only tasty but good for the environment too.

126

Also take note. The oysters that we eat don’t actually make these precious gemstones so we can abandon our hopes of popping open a shell to discover a precious pearl. While the edible oysters belong to the family ostreidae, pearl oysters, or pinctada, are members of the pteriidae family. There is a saying not to eat an oysters in months that don’t have an r letter (May, June, July and August) – this is because prior to the coming of refrigeration, it was harder to keep them cold in the heat. Another reason is that in the summer months the bivalves are spawning and this gives them a weak and watery flavour. During the winter months, when the water is nice and cold, these molluscs really thrive. In Galway the care of oysters continues as it has for hundreds if not thousands of years. The Kelly family (www.kellyoysters.com) ensure a sustainable supply of oysters through careful stewardship of their beds without the need to farm intensively. Indeed, with a lineage that can be traced over 1000 years to the first kings of Connacht, the Kelly’s long and proud connection to the sea and land is perhaps why they have a complete understanding and affinity with this part of Ireland and the fine oysters that grow so well here. The Native Oyster is the gourmet’s favourite, also known as the European Flat Oyster, this is the oyster which is Native to our Irish shores. Native Oysters are considered to be a great luxury due to their wonderful flavour and due to the fact that they are a relatively scarce species. The Atlantic gushes into the harbour twice daily mixing with the rich fresh waters from the Clarinbridge and Kilcolgan rivers which gives just the right mix of water and an fabulous flavour. Then the oysters themselves filter up to 11 litres of this pristine water every hour. These Galway oysters take four to five years to grow to edible maturity. You may indeed believe you hold in your mouth the very essence of the ocean.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 127127

THE HUMBLE OYSTER

128 128 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

THE ARAN ISLANDS

THE ARAN ISLANDS The Aran Islands have long been associated with the hardy resilience of Ireland’s people. Celebrated and immortalised in Robert ‘O Flaherty's 1934 film “The Man of Arran” and beloved of artists, writers and all who relish that raw and real experience of life in the open air. Inis Mór (Inishmore)

Inis Oírr (Inisheer)

The largest of the Arann islands is called Inis Mór (Inishmore) meaning “the big island”. That being said, the island is only 12km by 3 km in size. A windswept home to over 50 different monuments of Christian, pre-Christian and Celtic mythological heritage, and untouched by industrialisation, the island experience offers a unique glimpse into a bygone Ireland, when man looked always to the sea. Nowhere is this more tangible than at the spectacular pre-historic fort of Dún Aengus. There isn’t far you can go before being somewhere where there’s some-thing of historical interest and little reason to question its importance in modern Irish Culture. If you wish to stay on Inis Mór it is advised that you book your accommodation prior to your departure. Look on the helpful website below for more details.

The smallest of the islands is characterized by its distinctive charm. The island is 3km by 3km wide with small hills and intricate little valley’s and is easily covered by foot or by bike This island has a character similar to the Burren with its unusual eclectic mix of colour and the Cliffs of Moher clearly visible in all its panoramic splendour. From the pier you are greeted with a pristine carpeted white sandy beach facing clear crystal turquoise water and plenty of fishing boats, their nets, and fisherman returning at the end of the day with their catch. Inis Oirr is also home to St. Kevin’s church or Teampal Chaomhain. Over a thousand years old now, it has sunk deeply into a sandy hill close to the shore. The saint is thought to be a brother of St. Kevin of Glendalough. His feast day is celebrated locally on June 14th.

Inis Meáin (Inishmaan)

This appears to have been a popular spot among Ireland’s noble early Christian leaders of old. You can also visit St. Gobnait’s Church, or Cill Ghobnait, the Church of the Seven Daughters, or Cill na Seacht nInghean. This is thought to be the same St. Gobnait who is associated with the little Gaeltacht area of Ballyvourney in Co. Cork.

Inis Meáin Island is where you’ll find a more authentic escape from the modern world. With a population of 200 people, it is the less visited of the three islands. Visiting Inis Meáin will give you the best chance to acquaint yourself in the precious sanctuary of Irish Cultural tradition. This island has a hilly landscape. It also features crystal clear views of the cliffs of Moher. This island was a retreat for Synge, one of the most famous playwrights to emerge from Ireland, and continues to inspire artists and writers to this day. More recently it has become a centre for diving with its beautiful marine life and clear waters. The island also features cultural courses in themes as diverse as dance, poetry. A popular “Road Race” along this spectacular island coast is held yearly in the Springtime to support the local school(www.inisironmeain.com). Resident business, Inismeáin knitwear, bring the unique island tradition of Irish outdoor wear to an international market (www.inismeain.ie) . As there is no bank on the island, the bank flies in once a month to do business. So it’s a good idea to come prepared – you never know what you might want to take home with you.

The main village area is right next to the beach and is enclosed by a small hill bearing a castle and fort at the summit keeping vigil over the islanders and its visitors. This is O’Brien’s Castle, a 15th century tower house that stands within a stone fort. A walk to the lighthouse or the shipwreck of the Plassy is a great occasion where you feel the island with its diverse landscape unfold before your eyes and encounter the rare flora and fauna that thrive in the salty air. Inside the village you will find a strong local community still adhering to the traditional Irish way of life. The island features a traditional music bar which is has a nationwide reputation for the finest of traditional music and a great night out. The island also has an arts center. Find out more about this island on www.discoverinisoirr.com.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 129129

Getting to the Islands There are two main choices when it comes to accessing these jewels of green land in the vast Atlantic ocean. By sea or by air. Visitors can choose to travel as locals have done for countless generations, by sea – taking in the rhythm of the sea, the salty air and the spectacular scenery. Or, choose to leave fair earth and take to the skies with Aer Arann. The Aran Islands are located just off the coast of Galway and Clare. The traditional local boat, the currach, would have once been the most common mode of transport for those who wished to access these islands. Today they are accessible by ferry daily from Doolin in Clare (www.doolinferries.com) and Ros a mhíl, just 23 km west of Galway city. Ferries also cater for wheel chair users and cyclists may bring their bikes too. It is advised to book in advance. For more details visit www.arranislandferries.com. With frequent daily flights at less than ten minutes from lift-off to touch-down, Aer Arann Islands serves both commuting locals and visitors making the most of a day trip, and especially for a fast hop to an island holiday. All flights depart and arrive

to Connemara Regional Airport, reachable by a scenic driveand featuring free parking facilities; or a convenient shuttle bus service from the city centre. In addition to a regular service, Aer Arann Islands also provide charter flights for freight, passengers, and scenic flights. To find out more about this service you can visit www.aerarannislands.ie. Meet the people, enjoy an Arran Island atmosphere from cosy firesides to cliffs, awesome archaeological sites and spectacular coastal views. Here you can appreciate roots of Irish culture in this Gaeltacht area where locals naturally speak the Irish language as they have for generations. Inish Mór, the largest of the Islands is set as a prime tourist attraction. Leave behind the pace of modern life and take an opportunity to slow down while you are here – you can explore the boreens by bicycle or on foot. There's no better way to meet those fabulous Arran Island donkeys! If you wish to stay longer than a day the Aran Islands offer excellent options such as Bed and Breakfast accommodation, Hotels, and Hostels.

“In defiance of their modest size these islands offer a wealth of nourishing experiences: breath-taking scenery, ecclesiastical ruins from early Christian times, medieval castles, cliffs, prehistoric stone forts (sandy beaches, clean air, unique flora and fauna and a rich folklore that the islanders are proud to recount.

130 130 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

THE FUTURE OF FOOD

THE FUTURE OF FOOD Special feature

A Call to Action Food on the Edge was founded by JP McMahon, a chef, restaurateur and food activist based in Galway. We all need to eat better. And who better to discuss how food culture worldwide can be developed in a positive way and where it can take us than the world’s best chefs, food activists and passionate advocates. “We started out with zero funds, and invited 40 of the world’s best chefs to Galway.” Says JP, “I thought it was important to have an event of this calibre in Galway.” Food on the Edge (9-10 October 2017) is a unique not for profit conference seeking to make good food accessible to everyone. It is the coming together of chefs to listen, talk and debate about the future of food in our industry and on our planet. It is for chefs & food enthusiasts all around the world who want to create a better global network. The aim is to challenge our perspective on food and our connection to it. Approximately 50 chefs speak over the two-day symposium. All are chosen for their innovation, passion and influence on today’s food culture. Each speaker, with their own unique perspective, talks for 15 minutes on the cultural, social, environmental and educational aspects of food. The emphasis for the talk is on their vision for the future of food and how we can make things better on both a local and a global level. The mission of Food on the Edge is to create a benchmark for best practice, in terms of food, its culture, and the people who produce it. Chefs everywhere have a responsibility to be the avant-garde of food education, whether in the context of fine dining, street food, or in our hospitals and schools. We all need to eat better and in order to do this we need to debate this on an open platform at an international level. “It is no longer feasible for chefs to stand behind the stove. They must reach out to all in order to make food better for the next generation.” Says JP.

Our speakers present on the future of food, in personal and political ways. These talks will excite you and hopefully bring you to the point of something new, to the edge of a new idea or action that you can fulfil. To inspire action through debate and dialogue: this is Food on the Edge. This unique gathering has been described as being about the exchange of culture and emotion through food. The future of food is what we do with it. “We need more action” says founder of Food on the Edge, JP Mc Mahon. This year’s Food on the Edge will also have the important theme of Action / Reaction – the actions and reactions that both previous speakers, audience members have had in response to Food on the Edge to date. “We’ve had stories of wonderful actions that have been born from the seeds of ideas sown at Food on the Edge, and this is important to ensure we are really making a difference.” says JP Mc Mahon. These actions will stem from the topics to include sustainability, food ethics, animal welfare, organic farming and seaweed, and the future of Irish food. www.foodontheedge.ie

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 131131

”We sailed [to the Aran Islands]. It was a kind of sense of leaving the land and going out to a more ancient place. We went to the seaweed farm on the Aran Islands, we went to the goat cheese farm, and then we went to Dun Aengus. [..] I think the guys that came along with us really got a sense of what’s new and what’s old

in Irish culture. You’ve got a new and sustainable ways of making cheese, and harvesting seaweed, but at the same time, we’ve been eating seaweed for thousands of years. It was really great” JP Mc Mahon.

coachhouse FP_WAW 2018.pdf 1 30/11/2017 15:04:29

COACH HOUSE HOTEL basilico restaurant

CMY

It is ideally located in the heart of Oranmore village and is renowned for its excellent accommodation bedrooms, a Multi Award winning Italian restaurant “Basilico” and a newly refurbished hotel bar. Limited on site parking.

and with the new M6 Motorway we are within 2 hours of Dublin Airport. Many of Galway’s major Industrial Technology and Business Parks such as Deerpark, Westlink Business Park and Oranmore Business Park are within a 5km radius of the Hotel. BOOK VIA WEBSITE NOW FOR YOUR BEST RATE GUARANTEED!!! OR CALL RESERVATIONS ON 00353 91 788 367

Main Street, Oranmore, Galway. Tel: 091 788367 / 091 788368 Email:info@coachhousehotel.ie. Website: www.coachhousehotel.ie 132

Galway’s Finest Four Star Hotel Situated in a prime location on the Promenade, Salthill Hotel offers breathtaking views across Galway Bay to the Clare Hills. Base yourself in the comfort of Salthill Hotel & explore the Wild Atlantic Way spanning the length of the West Coast of Ireland taking in some of the most amazing sites that Ireland has to offer.

Breaks starting from

CMY

Breaks include 2 nights B&B, dinner on 1 night & a day tour of the Burren & cliffs of Moher or Connemara & Kylemore Abbey.

BOOK YOUR BREAK TODAY Call: +353 91 522 711 Email:reservations@salthillhotel.com Visit: www.salthillhotel.com

Tigh Fitz 3 Star B&B

Overlooking the Connemara Coast & Galway Bay, we are located on Inis Mór the largest of the 3 Aran Islands & features several ancient stone forts & churches!

An enjoyable st op along t he W ild At lantic Way

Situated on the doorstep of Connemara and the Wild Atlantic Way. • Bar Located 5 m inutes d • Restaurant fr om Salt hil r ive • Meeting Facilities l and 10 minutes fr • Banqueting Suite om Eyre Square • Extensive Leisure Facilities . • Swimming Pool • Outdoor Hot Tub • Free WIFI • Free Parking

Call: 00353 99 61213 Penny@tighfitz.com | www.tighfitz.com

Email: info@clybaunhotel.ie

Phone: +353(0)91 588088 www.clybaunhotel.ie

133

134 134 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

IRISH THATCHED COTTAGES

IRISH THATCHED COTTAGES with Liam Broderick

There is an inexplicable joy in encountering an Irish thatched cottage. Indeed no other symbol of Ireland so conjures a sense of Irish welcome: a turf fire burning, freshly baked bread, the old lady waiting at the half door. At one time, Ireland was dotted with such picturesque dwellings, built of stone and sometimes earth and capped with straw or reed. Thatched cottages were homes for the ordinary farming people. As such, it was once considered a poor man’s option to thatch the house. Richer folk would have used slate on their stately homes as it was not part of the fashion to include thatch. On a practical level however, a thatched roof offers superior insulation to slate and across the hills and valleys of Ireland, a cosy retreat during the storms of winter. The nature of rural life saw to it that the raw material of thatching, mostly straw, was readily available in plentiful supply. According to Liam Broderick, reeds came to be more widely used in the sixties and today the use of reed has entirely overtaken that of straw for thatchers. Reed, of course, is more water-resistant, being a plant grown in the marshes. The knowledge of reed harvesting was passed down from father to son for generations and continues to this day particularly along the river Shannon basin in Limerick. I spoke to Liam Broderick who offered some insights into the life of an Irish thatcher today. Liam has completed work for the OPW, the Irish Georgian Society and the Heritage Council in all parts of Ireland. He describes himself as the youngest thatcher working in Ireland today and, while demand is high, he has been concerned for the future of the craft in Ireland. Thatching is big business in England and there is a demand in Ireland for experienced thatchers here. As one cannot train here to a high standard, an opportunity is being lost. “I bought an old cottage and decided to do it up. An old man of 76 did the thatching and I decided to train in it myself. A person could be paying €2,000 euros a year for a thatched house whereas it would be €300 for an average house. There are numerous benefits to having a thatched roof however. Apart from the obvious beauty of the traditional thatched

134

roof there is the practical advantage of the warmth and natural insulation such a roof provides. Heat rises and the thatch really keeps that heat inside the building. Thatching is not your normal job today, it’s very weather dependent and you could be working 12-14 hours a day, working straight for 10-12 weeks. A hundred years ago, thatching would have been undertaken through a meitheal, whereby the locals would come together and enjoy the process helping one another. A farmer would also maintain his own thatched roof and thus as such there were no specialist thatchers. But this meant that the standards were also not what they are today. You can still see these picturesque cottages dotted around the country today. If you would like to comment on this or other traditional crafts and support these indigenous skills please visit www.irishthatchedcottages.com and show your support. With thanks to Irish thatcher Liam Broderick. www. IrishThatchedCottages.com

Established in 1936, The GBC Restaurant and Coffee Shop is Galway city’s oldest family run eatery. Ideally located in the heart of Galway City, we pride ourselves in friendly customer service as well as traditional Irish food. The self service coffee shop, located on the ground floor, serves everything from all day breakfasts to light lunches, such as various sandwiches and salads. We recommend trying our award winning seafood chowder, or our ever popular: chicken curry. We are one of the very few establishments who still use traditional tea leaves too. Our Restaurant, on the second floor, is carvery style during our lunch hours and an a la Carte or a set dinner menu is offered from 4pm onwards. We have daily specials which are under €10 as well as other traditional dishes such as Bacon and Cabbage and Turkey and Ham. We offer a wide range of gluten and dairy free dishes, including our homemade soup. All of our pastries and cakes are home made. We aim to offer a friendly and relaxed atmosphere and provide you with affordable food, with no delays, to ensure you make the most of your visit to Galway City.

GBC, Williamsgate Street, Galway , Tel: +353 91 563087  Email: gbc@eircom.net https://www.facebook.com/GBC

Galway Bay Fishing.com Boat Trips l

cal

086 854 7890 or kevin@galwaybayfishing.com for info

Cashel House Hotel Cashel, Connemara, Co. Galway PH: 353 95 31001

Cashel House Hotel is a luxurious 4-star property

A perfect romantic hideaway - Cashel House formerly one of Connemara’s most gracious homes, set in 50 acres of magnificent gardens on the beautiful coastline of Cashel Bay with Cashel hill rising behind. Owned by the McEvilly family for 50 years, where a warm welcome awaits you. Relax in our drawing room with its open log fires, antiques and fine arts. Retire to comfortable bedrooms all individually decorated or dine in our restaurant overlooking the garden which serves the finest seafood and meat dishes with vegetables from our garden and region. Enjoy walking, hiking, sea and lake fishing, golf and horse riding. We have Connemara ponies in our stud farm or visit Kylemore Gardens, travel to Aran and Inis Bofin islands or take a boat trip off Killary Fjord.

In the Heart of Galway

Restaurant | Food Emporium | Irish Whiskey specialists | Irish Confectionery | Gift Hampers

Restaurant

Serving Breakfast, Mon-Sat: All Day Menu, Mon-Thur: All Day Menu, Fri-Sat: Sunday Brunch:

8.30am - 11.30am 12noon - 5pm 12noon - 8pm 10.30am - 4.30pm

Shop

Mon-Thur: 8am - 7pm Fri-Sat: 8am - 8pm Sunday: 10.30 - 6pm

Deli - Cafe | Select Grocery | Confectionery | Hampers | Fine Wines & Spirits

DayTrips 9am - 6pm evening trips 6 - 9.30pm

Email: retail@mccambridges.com Phone: 091-562259

www.mccambridges.com @mccambridges38

135

few department stores in the country where Irish or Gaelic can be heard spoken on a daily basis. Irish is the first language of most of the staff in Standún. Standún have a vast ladies fashion department, with top Irish brands catering for young and more mature customers alike. There is also a Menswear, Giftware, Jewellery, Homeware and a Childrenswear department and it is a place where you can happily while away a few hours of quality retail therapy.

THE

ARAN SWEATER One of Ireland’s longest established family businesses in it’s 3rd Generation and the first to export Aran Sweaters. Standún Spiddal was set up in 1946 by May and Máirtín Standún, who cycled from Dublin to Spiddal on the west coast of Ireland and bought a two bedroom bungalow which contained a little grocery shop. The pair expanded the business - which was the first exporter of Aran sweaters to the US - in the fifties and sixties. Their son Donal took over at the helm in 1973 when he was aged 25. He was joined in the business by his wife Raymonde and they decided to move away from the grocery trade in 1983 to focus on tourism. The business is now run by the third generation of the family, sisters Cliona and Laragh Standún. Standún was originally known as the home of the Aran Sweater and in the 60s May & Mairtin had 700 women around the country knitting aran sweaters in their homes for them. Máirtín would travel around the country collecting the parts of the sweaters and they would be assembled in the store in Spiddal. Standún became the first to export Aran Sweaters to department stores in the US such as Nordstrom and Lord & Taylor. Every year people travel far and wide to visit Standún and it has become a family destination store on the West Coast of Ireland.

Standún has evolved into a unique shopping destination visited by both locals and tourists. It boasts stunning views of the Atlantic, The Cliffs of Moher, The Burren, The Aran Islands and Galway Bay. Standún has a small cozy café serving light lunches and delicious home baking. A business does not continue to grow and evolve over 70 years without having a reputation for quality, choice, and service, and Cliona and Laragh Standún have really put their own stamp on the place transforming the store into a destination shopping experience for tourists and locals alike. Standún, won a Wall Street Journal award for being ‘The best place to buy Aran sweaters’, and has developed a reputation for its choice and great value. It is a signi cant local employer in the Connemara Gaeltacht with 18 employees.

May & Máirtin Standún

The Bungalow 1946

Standún in the 1960s

Only 20 minutes drive from Galway City in a stunning picturesque location, it is worth paying Standún Spiddal a visit while travelling along The Wild Atlantic Way. Standun, Spiddal, Connemara, Co. Galway Tel: +353 (0)91 553115 eMail: standun@standun.com Website: www.standun.com

Donal Standún

Standún Shop 1983

Cliona & Laragh Standún

Standún Shop 2017

Standún is also unique as it is one of the

Standun FP_WAW 2018.indd 1

136

23/11/2017 11:30:41

Killary Sheep Farm

Demonstrations start at 11am, 1pm and 3pm Tuesday to Sunday. Open from the 1st of April to the 30th of September.

Killary Sheep Farm is a Traditional working Connemara sheep farm located high in the mountains overlooking Killary Fjord. • •

At the farm visitors experience skilled sheepdog demonstrations, turf cutting demonstrations, sheep shearing demonstrations and bottlefeeding orphan lambs. Tom welcomes visitors of all ages and looks forward to introducing you to the sheep and the dogs. Please phone or email in advance of visit.

Phone 353872988051 Email info@killarysheepfarm.com Bunowen, Leenane, Co. Galway, Ireland

Directions: Killary Sheep Farm is located on the southern shores of Killary Harbour 6km from the village of Leenane on the N59. GPS/sat Nav coordinates 53.595379, -9.793127

NO.1 VISITOR ATTRACTION IN IRELAND WEST KYLEMORE

6 Acre Victorian Walled Garden Gothic Church and Mausoleum Woodland & Lakeshore Walks

Restored Rooms in the Abbey History Talks and Guided Tours Café & Tea House, Craft & Design Shop

ABBEY

FIND US ON THE N59 : ONE HOUR FROM GALWAY CITY CONNEMARA, CO. GALWAY T:+353 95 520001 E: bookings@kylemoreabbey.com W: www.kylemoreabbey.com

& VICTORIAN WA L L E D G A R D E N

137

Joe Watty's Bar FP_WAW 2018.indd 1

138

07/02/2018 15:29:25

All The Twos B&B

Guided tours of the historic and scenic sites of

Located on the

WILD ATLANTIC WAY

Inishmore

the largest of the three Aran Islands.

Built to Hotel Standards • Ample Private Parking • Early breakfasts available • Upstairs can be reached by stairs or lift • Contemporary dining room

Aran Bus Tours

• Safe storage for bicycles etc

Inishmore, Aran Islands, Co. Galway

• Spacious rooms with en suite bathrooms • Satellite TV, broadband internet access • Direct dial telephones

Phone: +353 872356584 Email: oliverfaherty@eircom.net

Galway Road, Connemara, Clifden, Galway

Phone: +353 (0)95 22222

www.aran-bustours.com

www.clifden-allthetwos-connemara.com

GALWAY TAXIS FA S T

•

EFFICIENT

•

RELIABLE

091 561111 GALWAY’S NUMBER 1 TAXI COMPANY • Tours of Galway and surrounds. • Credit cards taken in all taxis. • Download and use our app to get discounted taxi fare.

Book online at www.galwaytaxis.ie 139

Connemara National Park Photo by Robert Ruggiero on Unsplash.com

The Mister’s – Achill Island On the Wild Atlantic Way!

I have a story to tell! Over 100 yrs ago, my Gr Grandfather Patteen O'Donnell lived here, he was a survivor of the 'Clew Bay Disaster'. He was on the boat with his father (who was in his 70's) and his sister (who was 16) going to Scotland to pick potatoes when the boat overturned in Clew Bay. Patteen survived and lived to almost 100yrs. He lived here with his wife Julia and her mother(Julia Lynchehaun) .They had one son Tom who was married at 17 to Mary (Cafferky) and they lived here also. Tom and Mary had 8 children here, who all emigrated to Scotland to earn a living in the potato fields, as most young people did in those days. My mother Sheila was only13yrs old when she left Achill to work in Scotland. When my Grandmother Mary died in 1947 my mother returned to Ireland on the 'Queen Mary’, which at that time was commandeered as a troop ship (as it was during the war). The only other time my mother came back to Achill was in 1989 to show me and my family this house where she was born. My Grandfather Tom O'Donnell was known as 'The Mister’, he was a market gardener who grew fruit and vegetables and also kept bees, and I am told he used to sing on Radio Éirean, and he was very well respected in the community. When my Grandfather died in 1969, none of the family were living in Ireland and the house and land was sold. Now 40 years later the cottage is back in the family and I am sure Grandfather would be happy! We have rebuilt and restored this cottage to make it a most beautiful comfortable home, retaining all the charm but with all the modern comforts. We hope you will be happy and comfortable here at 'The Mister's' and that you enjoy the beauty of Achill Island.

Visit our website: www.westcoastcottages.ie Email: westcoastcottages@hotmail.com

PUB FOOD AND RESTAURANT We offer a wide selection of fresh, locally caught seafood dishes including our famous Seafood Chowder. We also serve the best Irish beef and Connemara lamb,as well as vegetarian dishes.

Cleggan Fishing Village, Connemara, Co. Galway Ireland ++353(0)9544640 • oliverscleggan@gmail.com

140

LOWRY’S Sweater & Gift Shop

Browse at your leisure

Shop at your pleasure

Lowry's is family owned store in the beautiful seaside town of Clifden ( Capital of Connemara). Lowry's offer a high quality shopping experience. Our store incorporates the finest of traditional Irish manufacturing together with a contemporary range of Irish knitwear and Gifts.

“ TAX-FREE SHOPPING”

Market Street Clifden

353 95 21139

annlowry@eircom.net

141

142 142 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

FROM SALLY ROAD TO BASKET

“For me nature is an endless source of inspiration. We are fortunate to live in a wonderful landscape. There are mountains, lakes, rivers on our doorstep and areas of wild moorland nearby to delight the eye and nourish the soul.” Joe Hogan

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 143143

FROM SALLY ROAD TO BASKET Special feature

with Joe and Ciarán Hogan Joe Hogan has worked as a basket-maker since 1978. Ciarán Hogan, his son, also continues to work in the family tradition. As we look to the practical virtues of Ireland’s traditional crafts, we cannot but admire the beauty and simplicity of a handmade Irish basket. All the materials required for the creation of a basket can be grown in Ireland. Here is a truly sustainable Irish craft, it speaks of a rare harmony and a joy of working with nature. When Yeats wrote about being “Down by the Sally gardens” he was referring to the gardens or small fields where willows for basket making are grown. Traditionally each small holding in the west of Ireland had a willow bed or sally garden where willows or sallies (as they are known in Ireland) grew. These were harvested each winter and once seasoned were woven into baskets to be used around the house and farm. The potato skib was one of the most popular traditional baskets and this was used for straining and then serving potatoes. After use, it was hung on the wall to dry and so became a popular decorative item. The skib is one of the many baskets made by Ciaran Hogan who works form the Ceardlann or Craft village in Spiddal, 10 miles west of Galway city on the coast road. Ciaran has been making baskets there since 2010, having learnt his craft form his father Joe, who has worked as a basket-maker for 40 years. Joe Hogan also wrote “Basketmaking in Ireland”, the definitive book about Irish indigenous baskets.

brittle, so they have to be soaked in water for about a week to allow them to become pliable to weave into baskets. Although it is not generally realised, all baskets including the very cheap imported ones are made by hand. No one has succeeded in mechanizing the process. The Hogans believe that making to a high quality is very important; they feel it is the best way to distinguish their work from poorly made imported baskets. In his 40 years as a basketmaker, Joe Hogan has developed an intimate understanding of his materials. Since 2000, Joe has applied his skills to the creation of unique works of art, working intuitively and incorporating other natural materials such as wood, catkins and bog oak. To depart from the tradition, however, one must rst grasp the fundamental principals and skills involved.

Ciaran and Joe grow several varieties of basket-making willow in a very beautiful area of north Connemara near Lough Na Fooey in a wide range of natural colours. These coloured willows are then integrated into the designs of the baskets. The range of baskets available from Ciaran Hogan includes log or turf baskets, market baskets, skibs, bread baskets, platters, St Brigid’s crosses and even baby rattles. His father Joe now devotes most of his time to making artistic baskets.

Ciarán Hogan is available to visit at his studio in Spiddle. Current opening hours are 10 to 5.30 Tuesday to Saturday, 12 to 5.30 on Sunday and closed Monday. Basket making courses are also available for those that would like to give it a go. If you plan to visit Ciarán it is advisable to call him rst on 0871516062. ‘I get great satisfaction of having something solid that I have made at the end of a day’s work, I also really enjoy passing on the skill through my basket making classes. I am happy also to be following in my Dad’s footsteps.’ Ciarán Hogan

After harvesting, rods have to be air dried for several weeks before being then stored indoors. In their dry state they are

www.ciaranhoganbaskets.com www.joehoganbaskets.com

by:

Donal Mac Polin

Traditional

Boats of Ireland All around our coast, for generations, Irish people have shared a bitter-sweet relationship with the sea. Not alone is the sea a source of food from both ocean and shore but the water also marks a boundary. Where the land ends and the ocean begins marks the start of a connecting route to every conceivable elsewhere, from Africa to Nova Scotia. In high seas, shipwrecks could bring inconceivable bounty, or claim the lives of one’s neighbours. In the west of Ireland it was uncommon for sailors or fishermen to learn how to swim – their deep respect for the sea dictated that this was not a realm of leisure. Here, Donegal author, artist and boat-builder Donal Mac Polin invites us to explore the fascinating world of Ireland’s Traditional boats.

144

oday much of Ireland’s traditional boats survive as pleasure craft – and but for a few exceptions, they are out of daily use. When Robert ‘O Flaherty filmed “Man of Arran” in 1934, it was the iconic black currachs that sealed an image of rural Ireland and its hardy sailors. Today only a couple of currachs continue to serve local fishermen. Restrictions from central command in Europe seek to curb overfishing. Unfortunately, these restrictions would appear to be taking these functional vessels off the water. Ironically, it was never these smaller craft that caused such pressures on fish stocks. Two award winning films have been made in recent years, Loic Jordain’s Turning Tide in the Life of Man and Risteard ‘O Domhnall’s Atlantic – both highlighting this tension as traditional fishermen are no longer being allowed to fish in the old ways – and super boats prevail. It would seem to be more appropriate today to foster and support the culture of the local and small scale fishing industry, and the respect and values that went with that. These boats are a reminder. Of the few currachs that remain in use today, many have come to rely on outboard engines to propel them at speed. The legendary bravery of local seafolk is now attendant to a list of safety precautions and yet, if the engine fails, the oars become once again the essential method of movement through the waters. Reflecting on our present day dependency on fossil fuels, and acknowledging the wisdom of low impact technology it is timely to appreciate, revive and explore this exciting traditional boating culture. Ireland’s west coast remains the last repository for some of Ireland’s most iconic traditional boats. Although most are now used for recreation they were once the main mode of transport and essential to the livelihood for many hundreds of years in Ireland. The iconic image of the currach, battling through rough waves, is one that evokes the resilience of Ireland herself. Because of Ireland’s location on Europe’s western fringe, certain boat types have survived here for generations long after they have disappeared from mainland Europe, and many distinctive variations have evolved within quite small regions. For example, eight different currach types evolved in county Donegal alone as we shall see.

Boat Types Ireland has three distinct boat types: ‘carvel’, ‘clinker’ and ‘skin’. A carvel boat is one with a smooth rounded hull while the sides of a ‘clinker’ in comparison, is formed of thin overlapping boards. A ‘skin’ boat (or ‘currach’) is one which has a very light internal skeleton of narrow laths covered with a ‘skin’ of canvas and tar. Today, of course, animal hides are no longer used and

these boats are now covered with a black nylon or fiberglass covering.

Currachs Perhaps the most distinctive craft to be seen along the west coast today are the ‘skin’ boats or currachs known as naomhóg in Kerry. Currachs once reflected the poverty and isolation of the west coast, and were made famous by Robert O Flaherty’s 1936 documentary ‘Man of Aran’. (Visitors to Inis Mór in the Aran Islands can still see this film each evening in the local hall at Kilronan!). In early medieval manuscripts Irish monks are described as making journeys far out into the Atlantic, apparently as far as Iceland, perhaps even to America. Their ancestry goes back at least to the Iron Age. An exquisite gold model of a currach known as ‘the Broighter Boat’ dating from the 1st century AD, can be seen in the National Museum in Dublin. Currachs have disappeared from the rest of Europe, with the exception of England and Wales, yet Caesar crossed the Rhine and invaded England in skin boats. Descendants of these skin-covered boats (now covered in black nylon or fiberglass) can still be seen on Ireland’s west coast today both fishing and racing at the many maritime festivals held throughout the summer, rowed by children of the old men who once worked them at sea. In Donegal, amazingly five different currach styles exist along its rocky coastline. Unique among these is a currach called a ‘paddling currach’ which is propelled by a single man kneeling in the bow. This currach was the first to evolve from the ancient river ‘coracle’ first recorded by Giraldul Cambrensis when he came to Ireland with his fellow Normans in 1170. Other currachs here include an example unique to Tory Island, another (and Ireland’s most primitive currach) known as the Dunfanaghy currach, has its ribs cut from rough hazel. The remaining three types – the Fanad, Rossguill, and Bunbeg currachs survive, but only just. Along the Mayo and Galway coasts, heavy, fiberglass-covered versions of the older skin boats have evolved and are still fishing and transporting people, seaweed and animals, in fact anything that needs to be moved along the coast or in and out to the islands. Fine examples can be seen on Achill Island. Here also , sails the mighty Achill Yawl, a heavy work boat now brightly coloured and carrying large dipping lug sails once as ubiquitous as the Galway hooker but nowadays locally built and raced at regattas here all summer by dedicated local crews. Working currachs abound all along the Mayo coast and south as far as Connemara. Here the working currach is still king, but for how long more as fishing declines and ready–made boats inexorably advance.

145

146 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

Continued...

The Boats Today Few of the old builders and fishermen who worked these unique Irish boats remain. A few of their words are recorded in books and archives, where their ferociously dangerous yet exhilarating history still comes through to us. Much has been lost, unfortunately, as our maritime history and traditions have never held the same importance in the national psyche as our music or literature. Small local communities work alone to preserve or revive maritime traditions which will otherwise be lost. Perhaps it is too strong a reminder of poorer times, or perhaps that more of our history has been written by farmers and urban dwellers than by the people of the sea. However, along the Altantic way the sons and daughters of the old fishermen and some of our newer incomers are keeping the old traditions alive. You will not see many traditional boats among the fiberglass dream machines of Kinsale (although a celebrated cousin of the Galway hooker once worked out of here), but look out on the River Lee in Cork city for the currachs of ‘Meitheal Mara’.

Search out the naomhóg builders around Dingle the currach men of West Clare, the hooker men of the Galway Hooker Association and Bódóirí an Chladaigh in Galway City. Look in the little coves and harbours of Galway, Mayo, and up to Donegal’s rocky coast. All along the Wild Atlantic you will still find the traditional boat festivals and people of the sea still keeping faith with their tradition against all odds. To learn more about Ireland’s boating culture look out for “Traditional Boats of Ireland” compiled by Donegal man Donal Mac Polin, and Chriostóir mac Chartaigh of UCD in Dublin. Charting the great variety of baots that are to be found along the Irish coast this is a comprehensive and highly engagine publication. Learn about the specific boat types in detail and marvel at the many wonderful photographs from the precious archives of the Folklore Department in University College Dublin.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 147

The Drontheim In Donegal and elsewhere on the north coast, there is a unique boat type, called variously a ‘drontheim’, ‘skiff ’ or ‘yawl’. It owes its origins to a boat type introduced from Norway in the 18th century. For two centuries, it was the most common small fishing boat on the whole north coast. Like their forebears, these are sharp-ended ‘clinker’ sailing and rowing boats. Thousands were built here once, modelled on examples shipped from Trondheim fjord in Norway. Today, only a few are left, but replicas are slowly reappearing and can be seen racing at regattas in Inishowen and along the north coast as far as Rathlin Island. Donegal is also home to many small, graceful clinker ‘punts’, which are still the county’s most small coastal ‘jack of all trades’. Of these the most elegant is the beautiful Lough Foyle punk which can be seen spectacularly sailing every summer weekend in Lough Foyle. All are built in Ireland’s oldest (1745) boatyard by the McDonalds of Greencastle. Regretfully, today the McDonalds primary business is building fiberglass, twin-hulled fishing catamarans, reflecting the crisis at the heart of Ireland’s tradition wooden boat-building tradition.

West Clare and the Shannon Estuary On the Clare coast and in along the Shannon Esturay an attractive currach design, known as the ‘West Clare currach’ (or ‘canoe’), which was on the point of disappearing, has been revived with great success. Colour has now enlivened the once drab brown and black working currach of this area, and local clubs have sprung up under the banner of the West Clare Currach Club. They are reviving the skills handed on by fine local builders and ensuring that currachs will not disappear from the Shannon. On the Shannon river next to Bunratty castle a unique river craft known as a ‘gandelow’ can be seen. Once used for all manner of fishing on the river, some are still in use here but many replicas are again being built and raced by a new generation in Limerick where the AK Ilen Boat Building School has begun to train a new generation of boat builders.

coast. Crews train all winter and races are keenly contested, with the skills of their fathers still in evidence among the crews. Once exclusively a male preserve, women have taken their place here to compete as strongly as the men. So popular has the racing currach become that it can now be seen racing on America’s Great Lakes and anywhere Irish emigrants have settled.

Galway Hookers and the Wooden Currach The west coast’s other traditional types are the glorious Galway ‘hooker’ which is probably Ireland’s most iconic craft. The hooker’s origins and curious name are lost in history but they were once the work horses of Connemara, traditionally carrying turf for fuel out to the Arann Islands off Galway or supplying its once isolated coastal shops before proper roads appeared. Once almost extinct they have been spectacularly revived and can be seen racing with their great black sails and bulbous hull throughout Connemara each summer. Hookers have crossed the Atlantic and raced with Arab dhows in Dubai. The principal hooker festival is ‘Crinniú na mBád’ or ‘Gathering of the Boats’ each August in Kinvara near Galway city, but they race elsewhere throughout the region. Along the coast of Galway can also be seen the beautiful little ‘currach adhmaid’ or ‘wooden currach’. Built in carvel style, like the hookers but in the shape of a currach, the story goes that it was made first by a fisherman who got tired of his skin-covered currach being punctured by sharp stones! Originally tarred black like the hookers, many are now painted in bright colours. Truly a work-boat, they remain beloved of the fishing folk of Connemara and its islands who still prefer them to the increasingly popular fibreglass (‘tupperware’) boat. Though still working boats, they also race in the summer regattas.

The Kerry Naomhóg The high-point of currach design is the Kerry ‘naomhóg’, or simply ‘canoe’. This craft reached the high-point of its long evolution from the 19th century among the people of West Kerry, including the Blasket Islands, featuring in the many biographical accounts of life written by the islanders in the 20th century. No other currach has attained such a peak of design perfection: narrow and sleek, with a great up –turned bow and stern, it evolved over generations, perfectly suited to the needs of fishermen in the real ‘wild’ Atlantic. Replicas of the original working naomhóg are still build, worked and raced here today.

Books

The Racing Currach

Traditional Boats of Ireland, ed. Criostóir Mac Cártaigh, 2008.

Of late, the traditional ‘working’ currach has evolved into a sleek racing model which is raced enthusiastically each summer in traditional regattas along the

Rain on the Wind, Walter Macken, 1975.

148 148 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

CONNEMARA Connemara is a region west of Galway city along by the ocean and inland, distinctive stony landscape and rolling hills. Irish folklore is alive in the Connemara landscape. Here, the playwright, author and foundress of Dublin’s Abbey theatre, Lady Gregory, received inspiration and the storytellers whose words she has immortalised in books and plays. On a 16th century map of Ireland, we can see the area of Connemara is represented by many hundreds of islands, inlets and bays more conductive to movement by sea than by land.

Connemara is named after Conn-mhaicna Mara – “the descendants of the sea”.

Here, ocean waves are known as Capaill Mhanannán, “Manannán’s Horses”. The tribal name “Conmacna Mara” designates a branch of the Conmacne, an early Irish tribal grouping with a number of branches in different parts of the province of Connacht. Since this particular branch of the Conmacne lived by the sea, they became known as the “Conmacna mara”- Conmacna of the sea which has since formed the name ‘Connemara”. County Galway west of Lough Corrib is referred to as Connemara and traditionally is divided into North Connemara and South Connemara. However, there remains some mystery as to where it truly begins and ends. This is a paradoxical landscape of geological jumble where masses of sandstone, limestone, granite and quartzite overlap and mushroom into mad creations of nature. Prior to the construction of the Victorian roads, this area was out of bounds to the mainland – accessible only by sea and then nigh impossible to cross. It’s rocky moonlands and moorlands have given it a startling cultural resilience. The defiant structures of Dún Aengus fort on the Aaran Island of Inismore speaks volumes of the ferocious opponents the people of this region once had to face. The local traditional boat, the currach, is still built and used in this region the choice of transport among both farmers and fishermen for generations. The mountains of the Twelve Bens and the Owenglin River flowing into the sea at An Clochán Clifden, mark the boundary between the two parts. The raging Atlantic ocean frames the region on the north, south, and east. Known as the largest Irish speaking region or Gaeltacht in Irealnd, Connemara’s people exhibit a brisk rural charm and a rugged independent spirit.

Photo Credit : Mike Kenneally

Connemara

Photo Credit : Mike Kenneal

Today’s Connemara is accessed by road but this was not so but a hundred years ago. With a mind emboldened by the wild sea air, the Irish Republican leader and educator, Pádraig Pearse, found in Connemara a spiritual home and courted visions of Ireland’s freedom. Connemara is a far cry from Ireland’s apparent citadels of power. One hundred years ago it would have taken up to six days to make the long trip from Dublin to Connemara. Here another Ireland continues to live on as the local culture and language is now a source of celebration . You can visit the Heritage Centre where Padraig Pearse former house here. Mannin is the widest of Connemara’s west facing bays. Here, about three miles of water separate its northern shore of Errislannan (Iorras Leannán) from Errismore (Iorras Mór), a peninsula at its southerly end. A number of beaches line the head of the bay and the silvery Coral Strand is one worth seeking out. Not strictly a coral that crunches underfoot , but rather fragments off a coralline alga, a seaweed that draws on the calcium carbonate dissolved in seawater. An Trá Choireálach near An Ceathrú Rua is another fine coral beach of Connemara. The coralline seaweeds are collectively known as maerl and offer an abundance of hide outs for the great variety of sea creatures found here.

destinations. By the shores, you can tread in the footsteps of generations of Connemara fishermen – expert boat builders and sea men. Take a walk out to Slyne Head ( Ceann Léime ) from Ballyconneely (Baile Conaola) or take a boat out to explore the Islands. There is a regular tour from Cleggan to the Island of Inishbofin with its monastic remains. The Twelve Pins Mountains rise to the east, Hillwalkers are advised to purchase a local Ordinance Survey Map to assist in navigating the wilds of these mountain treks. Passing through Letterfrack NOTE and Kylemore where you can visit a famous neo gothic Abbey. Through Leenaun village with its charming homesteads you will finally arrive at Killary harbour where the wilds of Connemara open to lush Mayo countryside. In 1948 the philosopher, Ludwig Wttgenstein arrived at Rosroe in Connemara to stay at a friend’s holiday cottage. To the south in Maam Valley, it is said that the mother of one of Ireland’s heroes, Fionn Mac Cumhall, found her final resting place. www.connemara.net

Of course, Connemara’s rich coastline invites adventure – the many inlets peninsulas, bays and beaches are yours to explore. Alongside the rich sea life of Connemara, there is a bewildering array of onshore and offshore geographical phenomena. From cosy pubs to relaxing restaurants where local sea-food is served in ultimate freshness – you will find many places to relax and unwind in Connemara. To the east rises the Mamturk mountains and beyond them lies Joyce country divided by the two lakes, Lough Corrib and lough Mask both excellent fishing

149

150 150 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

IRISH TRADITIONAL MUSIC

A GUIDE TO IRISH TRADITIONAL MUSIC

Ireland's outgoing culture continues to foster musicians and storytellers in every town and cove. If you are out enjoying an Irish seisiún or music session in one of the many pubs along your coastal journey you are likely to meet some of these fellas! The Bodhrán ( “bow-rawn”) This is a traditional Irish hand drum usually made of goatskin which is played either with the hand of with a small wooden stick. Popular throughout North Africa and undoubtedly related to the Moroccan Tambir, the Bodhrán, like all hand drums finds it's ancestor in the ancient sieves once used to separate the wheat from the chaff. To play this instrument, it is usually balanced on the knee and a player places the left hand as a balance while playing with the right. As an instrument, evidence suggests that it was not much used in traditional Irish music performance until the twentieth century. Since Ó Riada's innovation, however, the bodhrán has been an almost indispensable element within Irish music groups. There is an energy and vitality in the music of Ireland that can equal anything popular music has to offer.

The Tin Whistle An Feadóg Stáin (“fa-oak stawn”) Beloved of Irish school children, the feadóg or Irish penny whistle or “tin-whistle” as it is sometimes called, is a versatile and portable staple of the Irish music scene. Every traditional musician has one in his musical armoury. If you are starting out in Irish music, this is an instrument of choice. With this you can learn the many traditional airs of Ireland's rich musical

repertoire. From here, you can progress to the more elaborate fingering of the Irish flute, the Pipes or the finger-stretching Low Whistle.

The Fiddle The Irish fiddle, fidle, is an instrument mentioned as early as the Book of Leinster, a manuscript written in 1160 , in an ancient poem describing the Fair of Carman. This was not of course the modern form of the violin which was developed in its present form in only the second half of the sixteenth century in Italy. Although the fiddle is in surface identical to the Violin, four strings wooden body and played with a bow- the Fiddle is played in an entirely different manner and in a variety of regional styles. Mostly known for fast snappy reels and jigs this versatile instrument can also draw out Irish slow airs once played by sensitive hands. Where a classical repertoire may demand precision and clinical adherance to notation – traditional music prides itself in a virtuosic individuality. As part of an oral tradition, the music is optimally learned by ear; notation is sometimes referred to as the “hanger” upon which the tune must take form. The beauty of this distinction is that a player of traditional music is not as such always putting on a show nor is he or she slavishly following the dictates of another. Rather, a culture bearer of this tradition allows something to flow through that belongs neither to him nor to those who are listening.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 151

Search by date and location all over the world to find your nearest session on www.thesession.org

A spiritual dimension is at play here and who knows where the music will take you, if you can still your mind and only listen. Irish music can rather be understood as a gateway to one's interior landscape. Musicians are often seen, eyes closed, transported to another world. There is at times a kind of reverence that descends upon a room when such special musical magic is about to happen! The Concertina Like the various accordions and the harmonicas available, the Irish concertina is a free-reed musical instrument. It has a bellows, and buttons typically on both ends of it. Unlike accordion buttons, when pressed, the buttons travel in the same direction as the bellows which travel perpendicularly to the bellows. Various forms of Concertina are also used for classical music, for the traditional music of England, and South Africa, and for polka music. Dedicated players and a rousing repertoire ensure the continued popularity of this distinctive instrument.

The Uileann Pipes (Uilenn - “ill-in” means “elbow”) To play the Uileann pipes may appear a bit of a feat at first viewing but this mystery can be explained. A small set of bellows is strapped around the waist of the musician and the right arm (in the case of a right-handed player) is used to inflate this bag. The bellows not only relieve the player from the effort needed to blow into a bag to maintain pressure, they also allow a dry air to power the reeds, protecting against the effects of moisture on tuning and longevity. You might see some dextrous pipers chatting away or singing while playing. Distinguished from many other forms of bagpipes by their tone and wide range of notes – the chanter of the Uileann Pipes has a range of two full octaves, including sharps and flats – together with the unique blend of drone and regulators. The regulators are equipped with closed keys that can be opened by a piper's wrist action thus enabling him or her to play simple chords.

Thinking in English Dreaming in Irish Sharon Ní Chuilibín

In this article we reflect on the challenges and opportunities offered by the Irish language. Up until the famine, Irish was the dominant language spoken in Ireland. The famine dealt a terrible blow to the morale of the country. Without food or dignity, such suffering as we can scarcely imagine today – such was the fate of the ancestors of Ireland : emigration or death by starvation in the workhouse, following cruel evictions. Today, as a result of the mass emigration from Ireland, there are up to eight million who would claim Irish roots . Large numbers are found in America, Australia and in England. Far from the country of their ancestors, many have taken to task, learning the Irish language. There are free online classes offered worldwide through the Philo Celtic society, and there are Irish speaking communities wherever the Irish have landed. The Irish language also features as part of university curriculum in Holland, Germany, Canada, Australia and the USA. This Irish language movement however meets a sizable challenge. Despite the fact that the community of Irish speakers is growing worldwide every year. The English language has the upper hand almost everywhere. This is not just an issue confined to Ireland of course. All across the world, native languages are dying under the pressures exerted by homogenisation and globalisation and a dominant Anglo American culture. This is not alone a cultural force but essentially an economic one. It is a question also of centralisation. As English becomes a dominant language, so too money and value saps out of a locality. The words ”thinking in English: dreaming in Irish” attributed to the Limerick born poet Michael Hartnett, Micheál O Hartnéide, evoking the power of the dream –for the future. At home in Ireland, there has been a growing demand for Gaelschileanna, schools where children are educated through the Irish language. Parents recognise the benefits and have taken it upon themselves to raise their children through Irish. There are tender shoots innovative companies to develop a realm wherein the Irish language can be spoken, outside of institutional settings. Of the 40,000 children who are being educated through the medium of Irish and whose parents are also learning the language, Irish people ask what facilities are in place for them to be able to use the language outside of the school system ?

152

Is í an Gaeilge mo rogha teanga” Irish is my language of choice” Ciarán Mac Fhearghusa is one such passionate advocate of the Irish language. Growing up his mother spoke to him only in Irish. Today he runs Óga Yoga offering classes workshops and retreats through the Irish language to schools. Wherever possible, Ciarán chooses Irish as his working language, giving preference to those companies who will conduct business through Irish. T-shirts are printed by An Spailpín Fanach in Galway. Hurls used in the activities of the GAA GaelÓga also. This is not an arbitrary decision. Have w underestimated the importance and potential of the Eurogaelach? And of the value of the Irish language in potentially fostering the growth of business and employment in Ireland? Such is the aim of Snastablasta – supplying chocolate bars and premium coffee which all-Irish packaging. You can visit Ciarán’s website to buy your own supplies www.snastablasta.ie. As Ciarán notes “People first buy these products for the novelty value, but they return to buy more because of the quality”. “Snasta” cool and Clasta means Tasty. Looking at the influence of the Equality of Languages Act in Canada, we can see the benefits of having products available in one’s own language. The fragility of the Irish language is evident in its lack of visibility in day to day life. Whether you speak Irish or would claim an Irihs heritage, it is a pleasure to find products in one’s own minority language. Award winning Irish language poet Simon ‘O Faoileán lives inside the Gaeltacht region of Corca Dhuibhne in west Kerry. He compares the effort required when one chooses to conduct one’s life through Irish in Ireland as swimming up a waterfall! “Tá sé cosúil le snámh in aghaidh easa.”

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 153

Death by Stealth Studies suggest that unless something radical is done within this generation, the Irish as an a language, even within the Gaeltacht is losing ground to English. The education system as it is does not serve the needs of Gaeltacht speakers of Irish. Studies have been done but recommendations are yet to take effect on the ground. Funding seems to be an issue at hand. On a practical note, what is needed is for companies and therefore employment to be created that Irish speakers may use their language on a day to day basis. The evidence suggests that there is a definite need now for a working policy and practical and innovative projects that not only acknowledge but begin to work to actively serve the needs of a growing Irish speaking community not just in Ireland but world-wide. “Whenever the question of the Irish language has been raised it has been brought back to the simplistic and devisive issue of whether Irish should be compulsory subject in the educational system. This is completely missing the point and curtailing any reasonable space from debate on the question of the Irish language.” Ciarán describes the government attitude to Irish language as death by stealth. It is not enough to try and maintain and protect the boundaries of Gaeltacht areas.. We really need to look at expanding through new innovative projects. To expand the present “Gaeltacht” and create new Gaeltacht areas. At present there is little support for families raising their children through the medium of Irish. There is not enough awareness at a national level of the question of raising children through Irish, it is not on the agenda. Awareness needs to be generated as a National Question these issues need to be publicly explored. We can effectively see no strategies of supports in place to actively foster the flowering of the language and nurture the rich culture of Ireland’s heritage. In the Gaeltacht areas factories have been closing down – what kind of employment can be created to continue to facilitate Gaeltacht communities ?

Tearmann Teanga Sanctuary of Langauge The Irish language was key to Ireland’s self consciousness as a full nation and yet once a Republic was formed the Irish State claimed an identity as a Catholic state rather than on the basis of

language. After all, leaders of the language movement included many who were of Anglo Irish and Protestant heritage. Their’s was a vision beyond the distinctions of caste or creed.

For right or wrong, the cordial relationship among both Catholic and Protestant fostered within the Irish language movement suffered through a limited image of ‘Irishness”. Indeed, following the dawning Republic in 1932, the distinctive bawdiness and playfulness character implicit within the Irish language, was squeezed into the tight grip of Victorian values. The language enjoyed a widespread blossoming of interest in print and public discourse and had come to be associated with a sense of Ireland’s glorious past. But when the dust settled on a new Republic, the language was caught in the teeth of a different agenda. Where once those who had spoken Irish in schools were punished severely, now the teaching of Irish often lacked the love and enthusiasm with which it had first been embraced. “It was forced down our throats” is a common complaint. Today, faced with the onslaught of Anglo-American influences, many recognise the value of the Irish language, in preserving one’s sense of connection to both ancestors and the land of Ireland. For one whole ancestors spoke Irish as their first language, through speaking the language, one firmly locates one’s centre within oneself. The next step is in determining how to integrate the language as part of one’s day to day life. Irish as a sexy, earthy language full of playfulness and dynamic sense of presence has yet to take centre stage. It is not object orientated as the English language is. In its very structure the human being is allowed a fluid, juicy sense of identity. This playful joie de vivre is found in the celebrated works of Irish writers James, Joyce Samuel Beckett and Flann ‘O Brien- where the English language sets to define and rigidly dictate the relation of a person to environment through the medium of objects. In Irish on the contrary we can say “ Tá brón orm” this translates as “sadness is on me” . A language can bestown upon the speaker a distinct moe of perceiving and operating within the world. The person who would have said “Tá brón orm” knows that –“this too will pass”. Like a cloud passing over. So too our perceived limitations are not really ours – learning the language does not have to be experienced as a constraint, but rather a new and true kind of freedom.

154 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

ARAN ISLANDS

ONCE UPON A TIME ON THE ARAN ISLANDS A journey west also provides ample opportunity to revisit all those essential skills and handcrafts from pottery to woodcarving that are being practiced today all along the Wild Atlantic Way. Ireland is renowned for creativity and passion – here you can find both, and experience the variety and skill of Ireland’s crafts people living and working along our western shores. John Millington Synge gained fame as a playwright and the Playboy of the Western World was met with riots in Dublin’s Abbey Theatre. Bringing the life of the countryside to the audiences in Dublin, Synge contributed to the development of Ireland’s national cultural consciousness at the beginning of the last century. The Aran Islands by John Millington Synge (18711909) was first published in 1907. It is a four-part series of essays on the geography and people of these islands with whom the playwright and author became intimate with over several summers in the late 1890s.

by a party of young girls.

“There has been a storm for the last twenty-four hours, and I have been wandering on the cliffs till my hair is stiff with salt. Immense masses of spray were flying up from the base of the cliff, and were caught at times by the wind and whirled away to fall at some distance from the shore. When one of these happened to fall on me, I had to crouch down for an instant wrapped and blinded by a white hail of foam.

Bards of purple cloud stretched across the sound where immense waves were rolling from the west, wreathed with snowy phantasies of spray. Then there was the by full of green delirium and the Twelve Pins touched with mauve and scarlet in the east.

The waves were so enormous that when I saw one more then usually large coming towards me, I turned instinctively to hide myself, as one blinks when struck upon the eyes. After a few hours the mind grows bewildered with the endless change and struggle of the sea, and an utter despondency replaces the first moment of exhilaration. At the south-west corner of the island I came upon a number of people gathering the seaweed that is now thick on the rocks. It was raked from the surf by the men, and then carried up to the crow of the cliff

In addition to their ordinary clothing these girls wore a raw sheepskin on their shoulders to catch the oozing sea-water, and they looked strangely wild and seal-like with the salt caked upon their lips and wreaths of seaweed in their hair. For the rest of my walk I saw no living think but one flock of curlews, and a few pipits hiding among the stones. About the sunset the clouds broke and the storm turned to a hurricane.

The suggestion from this world of inarticulate power was immense, and now at midnight when the wind is abating, I am still trembling and flushed with exultation. I have been walking through the wet lanes in my pampooties in spite of the rain, and I have brought on a feverish cold. The wind is terrific. If anything serious should happen to me I might die here and be nailed in my box, and shoved down into a wet crevice in the graveyard before anyone could know on the mainland."

continued....

155

156 156 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

ARAN ISLANDS

An excerpt from J.M Synge’s Aran Islands and Connemara, Mercier Press, 2008. Synge wrote of the seaboard from Spiddal to Clifden on his travels west. These writings offer a precious insight into the lives of Ireland’s people at the turn of the last century: “On each side of the road, one sees small square fields of oats, or potatoes, or pasture divided by loose stone walls that are built up without mortar. Wherever there are a few cottages near the road one sees bare-footed women hurrying backwards and forwards, with hampers of turf or grass slung over their backs, and generally a few children running after them , and if it is a market day as was the case on the day of which I am about to write, one overtakes long strings of country people driving home from Galway in low carts drawn by ass or pony. As a rule, one or two men sit in front of the cart driving and smoking, with a couple of women behind them stretched out at their ease among sacks of flour or young pigs, and nearly always talking continuously in Gaelic. These men are all dressed in homespuns of the grey natural wool, and the women in deep madder-dyed

petticoats and bodices, with brown shawls over their heads. One’s first feeling as one comes back among these people and takes a place, so to speak, in this noisy procession of fishermen, farmers and women, where nearly everyone is interesting and attractive, is a dream of any reform that would tend to lessen their individuality rather than any real hope of improving their well-being. One feels then perhaps a little later, that it is part of the misfortune of Ireland that nearly all the characteristics which give colour and attractiveness to Irish life are bound up with a social condition that is near to penury. The horses have been coming back for the last few days from their summer’s grazing in Connemara. They are landed at the sandy beach where the cattle were shipped last year, and I went down early this morning to watch their arrival through the waves. The hooker was anchored at some distance from the shore, but I could see a horse standing at the gunnel surrounded by men shouting and flipping at it with bits of rope. In a moment it jumped over into the sea, and some men, who were waiting for it in a Curragh, caught it by the halter and towed it to within twenty yards of the surf. Then the Curragh turned back to the hooker, and the horse was left to make its own way to the land.”

157

SEAN NÓS, LITERALLY “OLD STYLE” SINGING Sean nós, literally “old style”, singing is part of an unbroken tradition with ancient roots. A number of theories have been shared concerning the various influences that have shaped this particular form of singing. Unaccompanied singing in the Irish language is today an echo of the tradition of the poet, file or seer, who once occupied a central role in Irish society. For Ireland’s ancestors of a distant past, in a time when words held more power than bullets have today – and were respected as such : poetry was sung or chanted.

n bardic times, it was through the authority of the poet, with his encyclopaedic knowledge of regal genaeology, that an Irish King would lay claim to the throne. Sometimes the poet would be accompanied by the “cruit”, an early forerunner of the Irish harp. Sung poems brought news of events, could be used to praise or to condemn. Today the tradition of “amhránaíocht ar an sean nós” the old style singing, continues to be handed down from generation to generation. These songs are by reputation entirely in the Irish language although occasionally you may hear a song in Irish which includes a chorus in English ( this is called a macaronic song ). Although at yearly Oireachtas or the Fleadh, singers of all ages compete for highly prized awards, traditionally the real life of this singing tradition is found in local community gatherings wherever the Irish language

158

continues to be spoken. There is much scholarly discussion on the origins of this form of singing. One of the first sean nós singers to gain international recognition, Seosamh Ó nÉanaí is described( by Martín Ó Cadhain) as singing his songs “effortlessly, one after the other, in a manner which strongly reminds one of Gitano Singing in the caves of Granada. In fact, his splendid figure and face is the southern Spanish type. There is a strong tradition that survivors of the Armada remained along the Connamara coast.” Others have observed how this Connamara sean nós singing is comparable to the unaccompanied tones of the muezzin calling to prayer in the Islamic world. Indeed, the sean nós calls us away from the senses – and into the trance and the realms of the spiritual where one

can move out of space and time. As the Irish language is sounded, Ireland’s ancestors are invoked in every word. It cannot be denied that Ireland’s western coast bears evidence of continuous contact between Islamic Spain and even north Africa. As an island nation, Ireland’s rich boating traditions have shaped our culture in many ways. Prior to the definition of nation states, our own sense of self would have been as fluid as the waters that surround the Irish coast. Whatever the influences that shaped this form of singing, in the pressure cooker of time, it is the sense of evoking a connection with unbroken essence of a life lived on this island that remains. As each singer brings his or her own unique voice inviting the songs to life, the spirit of these songs remains.

In Connemara, you would be likely to find a traditional singing session in local pubs, on the Aaran Islands too, the music persists. Look out for “Féíle Joe Éiniú” on the May bank holiday weekend in his homeplace of Carna each year. You can also learn more about Seosamh ‘O Éanaí online at www.joeheaney.org. In recent years it has become popular for non-Irish speaking singers to take up the style, first learning the

language and listening to recordings. Singing sessions are then a good place to try out your skills – while in Cork, visit the Sunday session upstairs at the Spailpín Fánach. Taking the ‘sean nós’ singing to new audiences, voices such as those of Eithne Ní Catháin(www.INNY-K. com) , or Iarla Ó Lionaird offer a new approach. As part of The Gloaming supergroup, Ó Lionaird has been singing Ireland’s sean nós songs to audiences from Sydney Opera house to London’s Royal Albert Hall. If you care to learn more about Irish Traditional Music and Singing you will enjoy browsing the online collection of the Irish Traditional Music Archives

159

MAYO

TRIVIA The giant sea stack at Dun Briste, Mayo was connected to the land by an arch as recently as 1393. On its collapse, people living there had to be rescued by climbing across the chasm on ship’s ropes. No one returned to the top of Dun Briste until the twentieth century. You will find the HIGHEST SEA CLIFFS in Europe at Croaghaun, Achill Island. They extend 668 metres above the sea. Céide fields, in Erris Co. Mayo was the site of Europes’ largest known Stone Age Community with as many as 5,000 inhabitants at its peak.

160

DOWNPATRICK HEAD

BARR NA BINNE BUI

Blue Flag Beaches on the Wild Atlantic Way Towns

MINNAN

CEANN DHUN MODHA CEANN EANACH

Belmullet

Elly Bay

Wild Atlantic Way Route

Ross KILLAHA QUAY

CLAGGAN ISLAND

Mullaghroe

WILD ATLANTIC WAY VIEWPOINTS

Bangor Erris

Golden StrandINIS BIGIL

Keel

CLEW BAY VIEW Mulranny

Dooega

SPANISH ARMADA VIEWPOINT

To Sligo

Ballina

FAL MOR Dugort Strand Keem

LACKAN STRAND

Foxford

Charlestown

Newport

Clare Island

Old Head Bertra Carrowmore Westport CARROWINSKY STRAND INISTURK DOO LOUGH ISLAND FAMINE MEMORIAL WHITE STRAND HILLARY HARBOUR

Castlebar Knock

To Galway

Blue Flag Beaches on the Wild Atlantic Way Towns Wild Atlantic Way Route WILD ATLANTIC WAY VIEWPOINTS

161

Artisan Cheese MAYO BLACKSMITH

OF METAL & HEAT BLACKSMITH The life of a Mayo Blacksmith with Ray Munnelly At his forge in scenic Killala bay, Ray has worked as a blacksmith for over fifty years. He is one of the oldest people practicing blacksmithing in Ireland today. Before the tractor came on the scene all the work on a farm was done with a horse and cart. There was no garage in those days and so farmers went to their local forge for farm implements and tools and to have anything fixed. continued

Loic Jourdain 162

Artisan Cheese MAYO BLACKSMITH

Loic Jourdain 163

Artisan Cheese MAYO BLACKSMITH

‘My God you have to keep a good re going. The fire is fuelled by coal and it has to be hot enough to melt iron – 1,200 to 1,400 degrees!’ Ray Munnelly Blacksmithing refers to the art or process of shaping and forging metal with the use of heat and tools. From the time that civilizations discovered that metal could be forged, at least one blacksmith was present in nearly every town across the world. At heat of between twelve and fourteen hundred degrees centigrade, metal becomes soft and pliable. This metal shaping technique made it much easier to forge better weapons, tools, and building materials. With mention of the word “blacksmith”, a majority of people may conjure up images of men in the old West pounding out horseshoes. This is the role of the Farrier however. Ray is

Loic Jourdain 164

admired for making all of his own tools. He has also produced tools for other crafts people including basket weavers, boat builders and basket makers. Through his skills, he can make all manner of useful objects and this lends him a refreshing sense of independence; if he can make it he won’t buy it! The Industrial Revolution nearly put an end to the blacksmithing trade. New machines, like screw-cutting lathes, could produce metal goods much faster and cheaper than blacksmiths ever could. There were some jobs that machines couldn’t do, however, such as to provide shoes for horses, and although the number of blacksmiths in the word declined, they have not altogether disappeared. Today, blacksmithing is more of an art than

a necessity, and a majority of modern blacksmiths may now consider themselves to be artisans. In order to forge metal, blacksmiths use tongs to heat metal in a furnace or re until it is red hot. Although it is still technically a solid at this point, this makes the metal much softer and more pliable. While the metal is easy to manipulate, a blacksmith will use a variety of different tools to shape and forge the metal. He can place the red-hot metal on an anvil or metal bench, for instance, and hammer it at. He can also use several other tools to twist it, bend it, pull it, or drill holes in it. The process of heating and shaping the metal is repeated several times until the metal has reached the desired shape.

Artisan Cheese MAYO BLACKSMITH

OF METAL & HEAT BLACKSMITH The life of a Mayo Blacksmith with Ray Munnelly The history of Blacksmithing is an interesting one. In Europe of the Middle Ages, Blacksmithing was banned as a black art and anyone caught practicing the craft was likely to be put to death. What went on in the darkness of the smithy was a mystery to most people. Many stories evolved about the man of fire, and some people say that this is where the stories of a Devil in burning hell began! Today we can appreciate the art of the smith for the skill and ingenuity it requires. Nonetheless, there is still magic to be witnessed here even today, as metal takes new forms before your eyes. Just outside Castlebar, Co Mayo you can visit Turlough House Park the National Museum of Country Life where you can learn about the way of life in Ireland in times past. Contact Wild Atlantic Cultural Tours to enjoy a morning in Ray’s forge making traditional ‘cockle hookers’ followed by an afternoon foraging for cockles along the beautiful Mayo coast. Ray is available to show people the forge and demonstrate how blacksmiths worked in metal seventy years ago. You can call Ray on 0894345909 between the hours of 10am and 2pm. www.facebook.com/WildAtlanticCulturalTours @WildAtlanticCulturalTours

Loic Jourdain 165

2018

Packages priced to suit every budget.

+353 (0)98 24100

Escape to Mulranny

***

Gift Vouchers Available

***

The Wild Atlantic Way at Our Front Door and the Great Western Greenway at Our Back Door

Call 098 36000

Special Offers for Golden Year Breaks

“One of the best places for walkers in Ireland”

“Nephin Restaurant - one of the best restaurants in Ireland”

for reservations

Mulranny, Westport, Co. Mayo www..mulrannyparkhotel .ie

166

2 AA Rosettes

Weddings. Hotel. Restaurant. Museum. Cafe

THE BOUTIQUE HOTEL is a member of the prestigious “Irelands Blue Book” with 10 rooms available Belleek is the prefect place to make a base to discover County Mayo, North West of Ireland and the Wild Atlantic Way.

BELLEEK CASTLE, is one of Ireland’s historic stately homes, expertly restored by Marshall Doran. Set in the middle of Belleek Woods near Ballina (Salmon Capital of Ireland) 40 minutes drive from Knock Airport. Superb AA Rosette fine dining from master chef Stephen Lenahan. International golf courses, world class salmon fishing & shooting, scenic walks, cycling and historic sites all close by.

OUR RESTAURANT has won a number of awards over the years including “Best Customer Service” in Mayo & Connacht, and “Best Restaurant in Connaught” for 2017, making it a picture~perfect location to dine during a tour of the “Wild Atlantic Way”. The Armada Bar and lounge is open for bar food from 2:30 throughout the year, perfect for some nourishment before or after a tour.

THE CASTLE TOUR includes an explanation of the origins of the Castle & the Knox Gore family, the historic period when Belleek was built, life of Marshall Doran and his collection. See the Armada Bar, Mediaeval Great Hall, fossil collection, Grace O’Malley room and the Castle armoury. See and feel up close, the weaponry of the mediaeval soldier. Enjoy the facilities of this ancestral home of the Earl of Arran, historic and unique, intimate and magical.

NEW CAFE OPEN! Join Lilly Lenahan (manager & head chef at Jack Fenn’s Courtyard Cafe). The cafe is housed in our former 1820s stables & coach house. The exterior brickwork & character has been restored and the interior of the building has been given a modern design. The interior also reflects the life of Jack Fenn, a sailor & adventurer! The cafe is open Wednesday to Sunday, 11am - 5pm (closed Monday & Tuesday).

Please call in advance to book a table, room or tour. We look forward to welcoming you through our doors.

Ballina, Co. Mayo, Ireland | Tel: +353 96 22400 | belleekcastle.com

Untitled-13 1 BEL-Ad072-Castle-A4-F&W-Nov17-v1.indd 1

22/11/2017 15:12:06 08/11/2017 18:48

167

...FIND YOUR WILD AT THE ICE HOUSE.

FROM CLIFF WALKS TO SEA STACKS...

✳

Experience the ‘Wild Atlantic Way’ your way with a stay at the Ice House. Enjoy fantastic food, our award winning spa, spacious rooms with panoramic views over the River Moy and sensational service from the moment your arrive. Explore the Ceide Fields, Foxford Woollen Mills and all the raw natural beauty, culture and heritage that’s here on your doorstep.

...FROM SPA TREATMENTS TO SEAFOOD TRAILS.

To book, call 096 23500 or visit theicehouse.ie

T H E I C E H O U S E, T H E Q U AY, B A L L I N A, CO. M AYO

The Ice House The Quay, Ballina, Co Mayo

The Ice House is located in a truly iconic building overlooking the spectacular River Moy, at the Quay, Ballina, Co Mayo. Funky furnishings, eclectic styling and stunning architectural design at the Ice House combine with delicious food and drink, first class service and an award winning boutique spa to create a destination full of character, luxury and charm in the heart of North Mayo. With unparalleled views of the River Moy and Beleek Woods, the design of the hotel takes full advantage of its stunning

two relaxation rooms. Chill Spa uses the revitalising Irish made organic seaweed based VOYA products and has been winner of People’s Choice, Irish Tatler Spa Awards 2016, Best Spa, Irish Hair and Beauty Awards 2016, Best Organic Therapy (VOYA) and RSVP Awards 2016. The hotel’s 32 ultra-luxurious bedrooms & suites feature underfloor heating, goose down duvets and pillows, and VOYA lotions and potions. The Restaurant features modern Irish cuisine with seasonal and fresh local ingredients. The delicious food is matched by genuinely friendly and attentive service. With great service, fantastic food, fine wines, clever cocktails and Ireland’s best boutique hotel spa guaranteed to soothe, the Ice House is unlike any other hotels in Mayo. Experience the ‘Wild Atlantic Way’ your way with a stay at the Ice House. For more information or to book your stay visit www.theicehouse.ie, call 096 23500 or email chill@theicehouse.ie.

setting with floor to ceiling glass in the restaurant and in each guest room. Chill Spa has a unique thermal garden, perched on a deck on the river, with outdoor hot tubs, outdoor seaweed baths, a barrel sauna and relaxing seating, all allowing guests to enjoy the great outdoors in the most relaxing of ways. Indoors, Chill Spa has five Treatment Suites, a steam room and

The Ice Hotel HP advert + HP Editorial WAW_2018.indd 1

168

10/11/2017 12:27:24

Comhlacht Farantóir Oileáin Chliara

SERVICING CLARE ISLAND ALL YEAR

Contact Tel. No.: 098 23737. Mobile: 086 8515003 / 087 9004115 Email: bookings@clareislandferry.com Purchase your tickets on line at www.clareislandferry.com to avail of discount fares Untitled-1 1

23/01/2017 18:31:11

4* Award-Winning Hotel in the heart of Westport Town Ideal base to explore Westport House, the Wild Atlantic Way, Mayo & Connemara Bar Food Daily | Dinner Nightly in the Islands Restaurant | Afternoon Tea Leisure Centre with 20m Pool & Children’s Splash Pool Senses Spa | Children’s Club in Season Check out our website for Special Offers A Genuine Warm Welcome Awaits You!

STAR AWARDS

AS CHOSEN BY READERS

WINNER

BEST HOSpITAlITy AWARD

Westport, Co. Mayo www.hotelwestport.ie | +353 98 25122

Create Memories to treasure at Ireland’s Most Beautiful Stately Home, the award-winning rides, slides, boats & trains of the Pirate Adventure Park, 3 Star Caravan & Camping Park, Westport Train Tour and the Adventure Activity Centre. Check out our website for upcoming special events!

STAR AWARDS

AS CHOSEN BY READERS

BEST SERVICE TOURISM BUSINESS AWARD

Westport, Co. Mayo www.westporthouse.ie | +353 98 27766

169

WINNER, 2015 best tour feature in Ireland by CIE Tours International SEASONAL OPENING HOURS

FOR ACCOMMODATION IN CONG

WINNER, 2016 Awards of Excellence, CIE Tours

www.michaeleensmanor.com www.lakelandhouse.net www.congcamping.com

Award Winning Guided Tours

Quiet Man Museum, Tours & Giftshop

www.facebook.com/glenkeenfarm

Phone: +353 87 6167396 eMail: glenkeenfarm@gmail.com GPS: 53.6887939 -9.7869131 Glen Keen, Louisburgh Co.Mayo

www.glenkeenfarm.com

Working Sheep Farm, Farm Restaurant, Craft Shop, Antiques, Farm Demonstrations Of Sheep Herding,Turf Cutting, Wool Spinning, Guided Historical Walks, Private Hill Walks For Groups 12+

The North Mayo Heritage Centre is dedicated to promoting and preserving the rich heritage of the region.

Looped Walks Family History Unit Exhibitions Secret Garden Cafe Organic Garden with fresh produce Located 4km from Crossmolina on the R315. Find us on Google Maps: 54.070482, -9.311686 Tel +353 (0)96 31809 www.NorthMayoGenealogy.com

170

The Quiet Man Museum is a must for any Quiet Man enthusiasts. It is an exact replica of the White O’Morn Cottage in the movie. Painstaking effort has ensured that all the furnishings, artefacts and costumes are authentic reproductions.  Walking or Chauffeur tours to The Quiet Man film locations  Visit many of the key locations  Hear what happened when Hollywood took over the village of Cong in 1951  Hear what the film stars were like and how they interacted with the locals.  Dress up in costumes for photos and re-enactments Museum, walking tours & Gift shop opening times: 10am to 4pm Daily from April to the end October Chauffeur Tours available all year

Circular Road, Cong, Co Mayo Tel: +353 (0)94 954 6089 quietman@congholidaygroup.com www.quietmanmuseum.com

Knock House Hotel FP_WAW 2018.pdf 1 13/10/2017 17:31:59

KNOCK

...where a warm welcome awaits you all year round!

HOUSE HOTEL • A haven of Peace and Tranquility in the Heart of Ireland West • Contemporary and A ordable Accommodation • Relaxing Bar & Restaurant • Direct Train Links to Dublin • Complimentary Shuttle Bus from Claremorris Train Station Knock House Hotel loverlooks the beautiful grounds at Ireland’s National Marion Shrine, in the heart of County Mayo. Superbly located adjacent to the N17, and twenty minutes from Ireland West Airport Knock, it is the ideal location to explore Mayo and let your imagination be taken aback by its natural beauty. Take a gentle stroll around the Basilica and Knock Shrine and visit the Museum which captures the compelling story of the Knock Apparition of 1879.

Relax in one of our 68 contemporary bedrooms, 6 of which are wheelchair accessible rooms; sample excellent cuisine in the Four Seasons Restaurant or extensive Lounge Menu before enjoying a drink in the Bar, the perfect way to round up your day. You can be assured of our attention to your every need.

Open all year round

CMY

KNOCK HOUSE HOTEL, KNOCK, CO. MAYO, F12 R6Y5.

T: 094 9388088. E: info@knockhousehotel.ie W: knockhousehotel.ie

Gift Vouchers available 171

Kilronan Castle Estate & Spa BALLYFARNON, CO. ROSCOMMON.

Gourmet Break

2 Night Stay

gourmEt brEak

1 Night Bed & Full Irish Breakfast plus a delicious Gourmet Dinner in our 2AA Rosette Award winning Restaurant. From €129pps

Treat yourself to a well−deserved break away & enjoy 2 Nights’ accommodation with Full Irish Breakfast each morning & a wonderful 5 course evening meal in our fine dining 2AA award Winning Douglas Hyde Restaurant, on the evening of your choice. From €145pps

071 96 18000 enquiries@kilronancastle.ie www.kilronancastle.ie

CASTLE HOTELS

172

night stay dbb

Quick Escape spa Quick EscapE 1 Night Bed & Full Irish Breakfast, with a 50 min Elemis Treatment, plus a delicious Gourmet Dinner in our 2AA Rosette Award winning Restaurant. From €185pps

This historic Georgian House (4 star) provides its guests with a unique opportunity to experience the elegance and hospitality of an historic Irish Country House. The high-ceilinged and elegant dining room, drawing room and sitting room overlook the garden and river.

HEARTY FOOD, FINE ALES, COMFORT & WELCOME!!!

Famous as an angling centre Newport House offers preserved salmon and sea trout fishing on the Newport river (8 miles) and Lough Beltra. The award winning menu offered at Newport House reflects our use of local produce only – fresh fish and shell fish sourced daily also including our own home smoked salmon. Local beef, lamb poultry and Irish farmhouse cheeses all combine to provide a sophisticated menu beautifully enhanced by our internationally recognised wine cellar. Main House 10 Bedrooms - Courtyard 4 Bedrooms. Dinner: from 7.00pm to 9.00pm.

Newport House, Newport, Co. Mayo. E-mail Info@newporthouse.ie

Tel: 098 41222

Web: www.newporthouse.ie

HOUSE

Hidden among the woods at the foot of Mount Nephin is Enniscoe House

“The last Great House of North Mayo” - Mid Week Breaks - Self Catering Breaks - Pet Breaks Things to do:-

Fishing | Golﬁng Gardens | Heritage Centre

Address:Castlehill, Ballina, Co. Mayo Email: mail@enniscoe.com Pone: +353 96 31112

www.enniscoe.com

173

Tours and Tastings

We enjoy sharing our love of Irish spirits with visitors. Our guided distillery tours bring you through our process of making whiskey and will help you understand why we are so passionate about pure pot still Irish whiskey. We set up our tours to be small and interactive, so that you can really enjoy the experience. If you wish to make a booking for the distillery tours and tastings, please visit www.connachtwhiskey.com, contact us directly on 096 74902 or e-mail hello@connachtwhiskey.com

Winter Opening Hours

Monday to Fri – 10am - 6pm, Sat- 12noon – 5pm

Summer Opening Hours

Monday to Fri – 10am - 6pm Sat & Sun - 12noon – 5pm Guided Tours available please book online or call the distillery directly to make a booking

Guided Tours Available

Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday & Sunday (Summer Only)

The Invaders of Ireland An anonymous poem by a travelling Irish versifier recorded at the beginning of the 18th century. From Eoin Neeson’s “The First Book of Irish Myths and Legends”, Mercier Press 1965. Should any inquire about Erin, It is I who can give him the truth, Concerning the deeds of each daring Invader, since time was a youth. First Cassir, Bith’s venturesome daughter, Came here o’er the eastern sea; And fifty fair damsels she brought her To solace her warriors three. Bith died at the foot of his mountain And Ladr on top of his height; And Cassir by Boyle’s limpid fountain, Ere rushed down the flood in its might. For a year, while the waters encumber The Earthm at Tul-Tunna of strength. I slept, none enjoyed such sweet slumber, As that which I woke from at length. When Partholon came to the Island From Greece, in the Eastern land, I welcomed him gaily to my land, And feasted the whole of his band.

176

Again, when death seized on the strangers, I roamed the land merry and free, Both careless and fearless of dangers, Till blithe Nemed came over the sea. The Firbolgs and roving Firgallions Came next like the waves in their flour: The Firdonnians arrived in Battlion And landed in Erris –Mayo. Then came the wise Tuatha de Danaans. Concealed in black clouds from their foe: I feasted with them near the Shannon, Though that was a long time ago. After them came the children of Mile From Spain, o’er the Southern waves; I lived with the tribes as their file (poet) And chanted the deeds of their braves. Time ne’er my existence could wither, From death’s grasp I always was freed, Till Patrick the Christian came hither To spread the Redeemer’s pure creed.

177

GUIDED WALKS

CEATHRÚ THAIDHG GUIDED WALKS “The best sustained coastal walk in western Ireland, with a profusion of precipitous cliffs, crags, caves, chasms and islands along the remote North Mayo coast” > Lonely Planet Walking Guide 1999 ”

178

GUIDED WALKS

The Ceathrú Thaidhg Looped Walks begin with their trailhead at the Seanscoil (Old Schoolhouse) in Ceathrú Thaidhg, a place where stunning coastal backdrops are visible at every turn. A day spent in the region will leave you yearning to return, to catch glimpses of glistening or tumultuous seas (depending on when you visit), magnificent sea stacks, Iron age promontory forts on rising headlands and hidden inlets and where many ships faltered along the craggy coastline in years past. The area is rich in history and the geology of the region references the coastline of the Outer Hebrides in Scotland with the spectacular sea stacks (Stags of Broadhaven) 1.6 billion years old. The series of planned and way-marked walking routes enables you to take in this splendour whether a seasoned walker or a novice. With distances between 5kms and 13 kms on the routes ranging from moderate to difficult you can choose a walk to suit you. Treasa in the Seanscoil will provide you with walking guides to the area and her passion and knowledge will enlighten your visit and set you off with a spring in your step. If you choose to be guided along the walks you may be lucky enough to meet Uinsíonn, whose knowledge of every nook and cranny in the area is phenomenal. He brings to life times in history where this region housed look out posts during the Second World War, the existence of ne china clay, international exports from the tiny village of Portacloy and the lives of people who lived on the coast, all told in true Irish storytelling style and building memories which will live with you long after your visit. These stunning walking trails include : The Children Of Lir Loop, The Black Ditch Loop , The Binn Bhuí Head Loop. From time to time you will encounter impressive contemporary sculptures which reference the folklore of the region including the internationally renowned Travis Price – Children of Lir Sculpture and its association with the nearby Inis Gluaire Island where the Children are fabled to be buried. Another unique element of the Ceathrú Thaidhg story is how the community of Dún Chaocháin identities with their environment with each place name giving meaning to features on the landscape and a sense of place in the lives of the people. Every inlet, cave, reef, rock, hill, headland, field, stream etc. is imbued with its own special name and various customs and activities are also recorded. Place name maps, CDs and other local publications are available in the Seanscoil Information Office in Ceathrú Thaidhg. Be captivated by what this remote corner of north mayo can offer and see if you can remain away for long. Full and half day guided walks are available and lunches can be arranged. Speak to Treasa who is happy to develop an itinerary to suit your groups’ needs. Hot and cold lunches are also available at Seirbhísí Curaim, 3kms outside Ceathrú Thaidhg at Greannaí.

GUIDED WALKS For Further Information Contact: Treasa Ní Ghearraigh

Address: Email: Phone: Seanscoil, Ceathrú Thaidhg dunchaochain1@eircom.net 097 88082 / 087 1251642 Travel Distance to Ceathrú Thaidhg: Béal an Mhuirthead (Belmullet) to Ceathrú Thaidhg – 33.5 kms Bangor to Ceathrú Thaidhg – 28 kms Céide Fields to Ceathrú Thaidhg – 32 kms

179

180 180 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

MUSSELS IN MAYO

PICKING COCKLES & MUSSELS IN MAYO Special feature

by:

Anthony Hickey

There is nothing better during the autumn and winter months than spending an hour or two picking cockles and mussels on one of Mayo’s magnificent Wild Atlantic Way beaches. We are spoiled for choice in Mayo when it comes to picking shellfish for dinner – from Killala Bay in North Mayo to the shores of Clew Bay – Mayo’s many sandy beaches have shellfish such as cockles, mussels, clams and winkles in abundance. We have a few favourite places we like to go during the cockle picking season – Aughleam beach (Eachléim) on the Mullet, Doolough beach, Geesala, and nearer to home at Bullockpark, Killala, alongside Bartra Island. Our most recent trip took us to the beach at Aughleam (Eachléim) to fill a small bucket full of tasty cockles and mussels from the shores of Blacksod Bay. It’s a enjoyable way to spend an afternoon, having a walk, and, at the same time, collecting delicious and organic dinner ingredients. Of course, we always check to see when it is low tide before planning a trip to make sure we have plenty of time to forage along the seashore. That’s particularly important at Bullockpark near Bartra Island because it is only possible to access the sandbanks at low tide.

Shellfish picking pointers There are a few other considerations you should remember before setting out to pick shellfish. Firstly, the old adage that says, “you should only be eating shellfish when there’s an ‘R’ in the month” is true because

cockles and mussels spawn in early summer. So avoid picking the shellfish from May to August. Also make sure you bring a bucket and an implement to rake up the cockles which are easily found lying on the sand, or just under it. A table fork or garden trowel will do. Some people like getting down on their hands and knees to rake the sand, but we usually find the cockles are so plentiful they can be picked straight off the sand making it possible to enjoy a good walk into the bargain. Also it’s a good idea to fill the bucket with seawater to keep the shellfish alive. This serves another very important purpose as it allows the cockles and mussels to purge themselves of sand and other debris when left overnight. Fresh water from the tap is also fine. Preparing the mussels for dinner takes a little bit of effort as you need to remove the beard, a small hairy spot where the two parts of the shell connect. Cockles and mussels can be thrown into the saucepan after purging and are best cooked by steaming. It’s just a pity that the bottle of wine doesn’t come as cheap! Anthony Hickey is a Ballina-based journalist and photographer who writes about Co. Mayo on his website, www.mayo.me

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 181

Filling a bucket full of tasty cockles and mussels on Aughleam beach, Co Mayo. Photo: Anthony Hickey

Cockles and Mussels Mayo Photo: Anthony Hickey

"Firstly, the old adage that says, “you should only be eating shellfish when there’s an ‘R’ in the month” is true because cockles and mussels spawn in early summer. So avoid picking the shellfish from May to August.

182 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

FROM SALLY ROAD TO BASKET

“ Fionntán is looking over a Mayo beach by the wild atlantic. “It’s like the medditeranean” he says. “Beautiful blue skies and the colours of the atlantic. I don’t know what we did to deserve it, but we’re going to enjoy it! "

pending many days in the beautiful Mayo landscape, Fionntán takes great joy in gathering the wild flowers, berries, seaweeds and herbs that become a part of his unique Wild Wood Vinegars. One of the loveliest aspects of this job is the harvesting, says Fionntán.”70% of what we are using comes from the wild. Later today, I’ll be down on the shore harvesting seaweed. Two weeks ago, I was harvesting gorse”.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 183

WILDWOOD VINEGARS Fionntán Gogarty is the founder of Wildwood Vinegars, a unique artisan food company based in the little village of Rathlackin, near Ballina in County Mayo. His award-winning vinegar creations are unique, flavoursome and met with rapturous delight by increasing number of culinary fans in Ireland and abroad. Fionntán has unique ethnic roots. “I am 1/4 Meath and 1/4 Italian-Sicilian, ¼ French, ¼ Donegal”, he says. The influence of grandmothers from both sides of his family can be found in Fionntán’s artisan vinegar creations. On the French side, his grandmother would have made wine at home as would be common to the region. They would have made their own vinegar too. On the Irish side, a Donegal grandmother’s love of berries jams would have secured Fionntán’s early awareness of the bounty of Ireland’s rural landscape. Inspired by his grandmothers and through his work, continues these age-old values, love and respect for nature. An artist by profession, Fionntán Gogarty brings his keen aesthetic sense to his artisan creations. While he had been making vinegars all his life, it wasn’t until the recession hit that he considered turning his skill with making vinegars and passion for great flavours into a business. “No one was buying paintings, and so it because clear that it was easier to sell a €10 bottle of vinegar than a painting that costs €2,000”, he says. In Ireland, we do not have the grapes, but we still can make a wine from anything. From the wines then I make a vinegar. Fionntán also keeps a garden where they grow the organic lavender, thyme, tarragon and sage which contribute to the flavours of Wild Wood Vinegars. A particular delicacy is the wild mountain thyme vinegar which is foraged in the mountains of Nephin in Co. Mayo and in Cashel in Connemara. “We have to be careful not to overharvest it”, he says. Then there are the floral notes of heather blossom, gathered where it grows bountifully in the hills of Mayo, this has won the gold award (at taste of Donegal) then there is wild fuscia, plenty of that along the Wild Atlantic route. Other flavours include the Elderflower and Honeysuckle. Along by the sea, Fionntán gathers the dulse and a wild cliff samphire which only grows in cracks in the rocks. This he combines with a wild fennel to make a vinegar. The vinegar that is sold this year was made last year but some of the vinegars are allowed to age for longer. A speciality of Wild Wood Vinegars is the 5 year old aged balsamic blackberry

and fig vinegar. “With the exception of November, December and January there’s always something to harvest to make a vinegar”, says Fionntán. “It all starts with the Wild Garlic and then there is seaweed until November, then the blossoms come in the elderflower, honeysuckle and fuscia..” With my grandmother, nothing gets wasted. If you don’t eat one meal, it is served up in another way. The French don’t like to waste food. Similarly, the philosophy the lies behind the making of a vinegar follows the adage that nothing is wasted. In the homes of Provence, they would have an oak barrel which contain a vinegar “mother” and into this they would pour any dregs of the wine that are left over. This would then be turned into vinegar and so a family would never have to buy vinegar. “Usually with the making of vinegars, the final product is pasteurised which means it can have a great culinary benefit but very little health benefit” Fionntán explains. The vinegars of Wild Wood are live and aged in oak barrels, which adds to their rich depth of flavour and their viscosity. “Anything you can make a wine from, I make a vinegar from” he says One of the most popular wild Wood Vinegars is the blackberry and fig balsamic vinegar.“To turn a vinegar into a balsamic”, says Fionntán, “you return the leftover fruits from the wine making process or you add more vinegar. In Italy they take all the skins anything that was rejected and they cook it up. That is why the traditional balsamic vinegar is brown.” For Wild Wood Vinegars, they take ten litres of blackberries and cook them until bubbling. Then they add this to twenty litres of blackberry vinegar. “I put it into an oak barrel and forget about it for five years” says Fionntán. Unlike standard vinegars, this gets the tannins of the oak as well. It can be used then across the culinary spectrum- as an accompaniment to strawberries breads and salads. If you are cooking meats, pan frying a steak for example, right at the end if you drizzle in enough vinegar to coat it you can have this wonderful balsamic flavour. www.wildwoodvinegars.com

184 184 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

Inishkea Islands

WILDLIFE OF THE INISHKEA ISLANDS The Inishkea Islands are two relatively low lying islands, with magnificent, sweeping, white sandy beaches, 3 miles west of the Mullet Peninsula in Co. Mayo. There is evidence that the islands were inhabited by man as far back as 5,000 years. There are also significant early Christian sites dating back to the 6th Century. The islands were deserted in the 1930’s following a tragic fishing accident in 1927, when 10 island men were drowned. Boat tours visit the Inishkeas throughout the summer, weather permitting, and you can explore these magical islands for about 4 hours before returning to the mainland. The Inishkeas are designated as a Special Protection Area. The islands are the most important wintering site in Ireland for over 3,000 barnacle geese. Brent geese also feed here during the winter. Significant numbers of waders also spend the winter on the island (ringed plover, sanderling, purple sandpiper, turnstone, oystercatcher, golden plover and dunlin). Breeding birds include fulmar, shag, 4 species of gulls, storm petrel, common tern, Arctic tern and little tern, oystercatcher, lapwing, ringed plover, redshank and dunlin. The islands are also listed as a Special Area of Conservation. They are an important breeding location for Grey seals, where they haul ashore from August to December each year to give birth. Over 280 fluffy white pups are born on the island. Grey seals feed on a variety of fish and squid. As you walk around the island you will hear the

constant screeching of the various tern species. You need to take great care not to disturb the ground nests of these vulnerable birds – don’t go into the colony, just watch from a distance. Approximately 180 pairs of the world’s greatest travellers, back from Antarctica, the Arctic tern, nest here. You will also see a rare colony of little terns, back from their winter trip to the west coast of Africa. Only a few colonies of these birds exist in Ireland. Terns feed mainly on small fish, which they catch by plunging from a great height into the sea. Kevin Murphy is an amateur photographer with a love of nature, based in Co. Mayo. You can view Kevin’s photographs on www.irishwildlifephotography.blogspot.ie

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 185

STRAND

Enniscrone

Point

Sligo

SLIGO

STRANDHILL

Ballysodare

Enniscrone Beach

Collooney

Tubbercurry

Ballymote

MULLAGHMORE HEAD STREEDAGH POINT AUGHRIS & EASKEY DUNMORAN BEACH STRAND

Blue Flag Beaches on the Wild Atlantic Way Towns

Enniscrone

Wild Atlantic Way Route WILD ATLANTIC WAY VIEWPOINTS

186

Sligo Ballysodare Collooney

Tubbercurry

Towns

Grange

STRANDHILL

Enniscrone Beach

Blue Flag Beaches on the Wild Atlantic Way

Rosses Point

To Leitrim

Ballymote

TRIVIA Coney Island in New York USA was named by an Irish captain, Peter ‘O Connor, after a tiny island of the same name in Co. Sligo. At Markee Castle in Co. Sligo the lowest air temperature in Ireland was recorded -19.1ºC, on 16th January 1881.

187

188 188 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

STONES OF THE ANCIENTS

STONES OF THE ANCIENTS While out walking once in Sligo in the early 1900’s, WB Yeats asked an elderly man he met on the road if he believed in the fairies. ”I do not” replied the man. “What do you take me for? What kind of eejit would believe in the little people or in witches and goblins and leprachauns? Don’t be ridiculous. I do not believe in them. Not at all..” There was a pause. “But they’re there,” said the man.

n Co. Sligo you can visit one of the great heartlands of mystical and megalithic culture in Western Europe. For some, these megalithic sites are regarded not as a grave but as a dwelling inhabited at the present time. In this regard, among forts, raths and stone circles, megalithic sites are said to be the regular abode of “the other people”. When the Milesians arrived in Ireland and contended with the ruling magical race known as the Tuatha Dé Dannen it is said that they divided the land between them: the Milesians take the world above, while the Tuath Dé take the world below, the Otherworld. Thus, the spirit of the Tuatha Dé Dannen may have come to inhabit these ancient burial mounds that dot the Irish landscape. Carrowmore in Co. Sligo is the largest of the four great megalithic centres in Ireland. The other sites are at Brú na Bóinne, Co. Meath, ( home to Newgrange and Knowth passage tombs), Sliabh na Cailllighe or Loughcrew near Oldcastle, Co. Meath and Carrowkeel Co. Sligo, 22km southeast of Carrowmore. The remains of at least 65 monuments are known, though it was thought by earlier researchers that there may have

been up to 100 monuments at Carrowmore. The stones used to construct the monuments are a very hard form of local stone called gneiss, which comes from the nearby Ox Mountains. There are 6 more mountain-top cairns on the peaks of the Ox Mountains to the south. Apart from Carrowmore, the only other stone circles in Connaught are to be found at Nymphsfield in Cong Co. Mayo. A few miles to the east of Cong is the hill of Knockma where Noah’s granddaughter Cesair is said to have landed after the Biblical flood. The great unopened cairn on the summit is said to be her grave. While the passage tombs at Brú na Bóinne are said to have been built between 3,400 and 2,900 BC, the tombs at Carrowmore are at least as old. Dates of around 4,000BC or earlier are suggested from excavations here. Just 3km south-west of Sligo town on the Cúil Irra peninsula you will find an area of undulating land between Sligo Harbour to the north and Ballysadare Bay to the south. To the west, stands Knocknarae mountain, over 300m high, with the massive cairn at its summit.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 189

here are some 30 passage-tombs in varying states of survival in the Carrowmore complex. Another 25 or so are said to have been destroyed since 1800. As a result of both land clearance and sand and gravel quarrying, particularly during the early 19th century many of these tombs have been lost.

know. We can visit just like the many centuries have come and gone, yet these stones continue to bear out their silent witness. Carrowmore is owned and protected today under the OPW and State Heritage Services. For tours or further information visit www.carrowkeel.com.

There are a number of isolated passage tombs on the Cúil Irra peninsula and at the eastern edge of Sligo town. The great unopened cairn of Miosgán Meadhbha on the summit of Knockarea mountain is also said to conceal a passage tomb.

It had long been taught that the Irish had no culture of their own and Irish history was not given much attention – the people as if an empty canvas amenable to the desires of a powerful minority – ignorant of history. Through the Irish Literary Revival, this began to change.

In the 1970’s, extensive excavations were undertaken at four of the Carrowmore tombs. Material recovered included cremated human bone, pins with mushroom-shaped heads made of antler or bone, small bits of chalk or stone and simple stone implements of flint or cert. Pottery was also found in the socalled Carrowkeel style – the typical pottery of Irish passagetombs. The tombs are laid out in an oval around a free space, thought to be a site of ritual activity. On plotting the direction of view from the chambers, it is found that they look towards this open area. What once happened here, we may never

The Irish Literary Revival of the late 19th and early 20th century included the work of poets and writers such as William Butler Yeats, Lady Gregory and mystic ‘AE’(George Russell). This was a time of looking to the past and appreciating Ireland’s own language, stories, songs and literature. All that was native and Irish became worthy of attention and scholarship – myths and legends of Ireland were collected or translated from the Irish, artists and crafts men adopted Celtic designs and there followed a great outpouring of passion and a sense of national identity.

WOODCARVER & WORDWEAVER Michael Quirke Craftsman, artist, and gentleman storyteller, Michael Quirke is one of Sligoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s treasures. At his butcher shop turned creative cauldron on Wine Street in Sligo town, you can watch as mythology takes form before your very eyes.

190

WOODCARVER & WORDWEAVER

Michael explains that, of the 45 boys that were in his class as a boy in Summerhill in Sligo, 23 went on to join the priesthood. That was not uncommon for Ireland in the fifties and sixties. 118 “If I had said to my father that I wanted to be an artist, it would have been like saying I wanted to be a rhinoceros!” Michael’s father built his own butcher’s shop in 1932 on Wine street. Michael grew up watching his father practice his trade cleaving roasts and chops. And he accompanied him on buying trips to farms in the community. It was said that his father, a quiet man by nature, could calm an animal by placing his hand on it. And he could judge the dress weight of a steer to within a few pounds. Michael followed in his father’s footsteps for 31years, living a dual life as both butcher and artist, but woodcarving was his love. In 1988 he decided to stick to the woodcarving. He sold his last steak and, keeping the same shop, he moved in his carvings which had already begun to creep into the display cases. These aren’t

just carvings however. They are legends come to life. Michael is a gifted storyteller and this carries through in his work. He has an excellent knowledge of ancient Irish history and mythology and a feeling for the landscape as a living repository of Ireland’s past. Michael will talk to you while he carves, chipping away on his latest inspiration or commission, and without looking up from his work, will explain the symbols that he’s chosen and how they relate to Irish myth and legend. Queen Maeve, buried at the summit of nearby Knocknarae mountain, is a popular gure in Michael’s carvings. Legend has it that she has not yet forgiven Ulster for not giving her the brown bull of her desiring but instead stands spear in hand, waiting for her auspicious moment. She does not lie dead but is an active element of the place. “You can bring a small stone to throw up to Queen Maeve’s cairn for luck and to wish her well”, says Michael. “The Ulster men would through up a big stone to make sure she stayed there! “ Michael really is a lovely man and always has a tale to tell.

191

Sligo Knocknara seen form the Carrowmore Tombs

Castle Dargan Estate, Ballygawley, Co.Sligo. e: info@castledargan.com t: 071 911 8080 w: castledargan.com

Castle Dargan Estate.... “I liked the place for the romance of its two ruined castles facing one another across a little lake” W.B.Yeats Set in the heart of Yeats County, with 170 acres of parkland and ancient woodland set against Sligo’s rolling hills, Castle Dargan Estate is an infusion of history and beauty with spectacular views and ancient castle ruins. It is worthy of a visit for all visitors to the land of the great poet and the Wild Atlantic Way. This 4-star Castle Dargan Resort, complete with a Darren Clarke designed golf course and Icon Spa, is the ideal venue for a relaxing break. Located just a short ten minute drive from Sligo town, the resort’s centrepiece is the opulent Castle Dargan House, built in the 18th century and lovingly restored to modern standards.

game putting facility, a putting green, a NEW driving range, golf shop and The Middleton Bar & Terrace, which overlooks the spectacular course. For off the course relaxation, Castle Dargan Resort’s Icon Spa is an ideal destination for rest, relaxation and rejuvenation in Sligo. Complete with panoramic views over the Darren Clarke designed golf course from the spa’s relaxation suite, Icon Spa offers treatments using Voya products ranging from balneotherapy baths, dry floatation, massage, facial and beauty treatments. Accommodation at Castle Dargan Resort offers guests a range of luxury 4 star hotel accommodation with other options including luxury suites in the 18th century Castle Dargan House and self-catering lodges. With a playground and games room Castle Dargan Resort is the perfect family destination. Castle Dargan Resort, Ballygawley, Co. Sligo +353 (0)71 911 8080 | Web: www.castledargan.com

Castle Dargan Resort’s championship golf course, which was designed by 2011 British Open winner Darren Clarke in 2006, offers visitors 18 spectacular holes with a short

193

Benbulben Mountain Co. Sligo

Coleman Music Visitor Centre Ceoláras Coleman, Gurteen, Co. Sligo Phone: 071 9182599

An Authentic Traditional Music and Cultural Experience!

This Centre is one of the best equipped and dedicated centres of Traditional Irish Music in Ireland. The visitor can be ‘transported’ back in time through audio-visual and touch screen facilities to enjoy the best of traditional music as presented by the old masters and the younger musicians of today. The centre has a fully stocked Music Shop carrying a comprehensive range of CDs, music books, instruments, souvenirs and local crafts. The Coleman School of Music offers one to one or group tuition to visitors, available all year round but must be booked in advance. Enjoy top quality artists in concert in our modern tiered seated theatre. During July & August there are weekly traditional music concerts performed by local artists. A traditional music experience of music, song and dance can be arranged for groups, day or evening, all year round.

www.colemanirishmusic.com

VISIT

Eagles Flying Irish Raptor Research Centre

Ballymote, Co. Sligo Tel: 071 918 9310 www.eaglesflying.com All Weather Suitable

BIRD SHOWS daily at 11am & 3pm (Two hour programme in total) Open: 10.30 - 12.30 & 2.30 - 4.30 24th March - 7th November

A visit to Eagles Flying is fun for all the family. The highly entertaining and interactive shows at Ireland’s Largest Bird of Prey Centre means excitement, photo opportunities and the chance to get up close with the birds of prey. Experience Eagles, Hawks and Vultures flying right over your head or landing beside you. You have never been that close to such a bird. There are more than 100 birds of prey - some with a wingspan of more than 3 metres. If you are lucky, you can fly or touch one of them during the show. If you like more cuddly creatures you can stroke the animals in our large petting zoo.

Petting Zoo We have rabbits, guinea-pigs, geese, hens, pids, raccoons, mini ponies, goats, donkeys, foxes and more, so a visit is fun for all the family.

FREE PARKING FOR CARS AND COACHES FULLY WHEELCHAIR ACCESSIBLE

To Find Us: Drive from Ballymote towards Temple House / Ballinacarrow or from the N17 towards Temple House / Ballymote. Our4 GPS co-ordinates: N 54°06.207´ W 8°34.053´

Clayton Hotel Sligo

Clayton Hotel Sligo is set on beautiful grounds overlooked by the spectacular Benbulben Mountain, situated on the edge of Sligo town with easy access from all major routes. Clayton Hotel Sligo features 162 luxurious bedrooms, Bulbens Bar & Bistro, Sinergie Restaurant, Club Vitae Health & Fitness and Essence Spa. Bed & Breakfast rates starting from only €99 per night for 2 people contact us today or visit claytonhotelsligo.com

Stunning Scenery, Steeped in mythology and History, fine dining and right in the heart of the Wild Atlantic Way...Explore the hidden gem in Co. Sligo

claytonhotelsligo.com +353 71 9119000 info.sligo@claytonhotels.com

THE SLIGO FOOD TRAIL

THE SLIGO FOOD TRAIL As you drive through Sligo, you’ll witness the outstanding landscape which yields the fresh ingredients that create its exceptional cuisine: the lush green fields, the majestic mountains, the charming farms, the salmon rivers, and the mighty Atlantic Ocean! Sligo’s premiere location on the Wild Atlantic Way means you can enjoy freshly-caught fish in any local restaurant. Alternatively, indulge your taste buds on Knocknarea honey, wild Mullaghmore lobster, Lissadell oysters, and fresh eggs from the foot of Benbulben Mountain. Mapping the very best in fresh Sligo produce, the Sligo Food Trail treats your palate to an

196

abundance of culinary treasures. You can map your own route to choose the cuisine that you love best. What makes Sligo such a fantastic foodie destination is the culture that goes hand in hand with the food experience. Producers and Food Trail members take pride in giving you fresh, local, healthy, (and very often) organic food that nourishes your body while the scenery nurtures your soul. www.sligofoodtrail.ie

THE SLIGO FOOD TRAIL Strandhill People’s Market The Strandhill People’s Market takes place in the unique venue of Hangar 1 at Sligo Airport in Strandhill, just a short stroll from the beachfront every Sunday 11-4pm. Featuring live music and the best in artisan foods, baked goods, freshly baked juices, cheeses fresh meat and vegetables, as well as arts and crafts– this market is a great chance to take in the local atmosphere. A focal point for the community, the market takes place against the backdrop of Knocknarea Mountain and under the watchful eye of Queen Maeve. www.strandhillpeoplesmarket.ie

Sligo Farmer’s Market Sligo Farmer’s Market boasts a wide selection of fresh locally produced produce. The market located in the I.T. Sligo car park has producers on hand to discuss any questions about their produce. There are homemade jams, chutneys and tapenades along with wide variety of organic yoghurt, smoothies, vegetarian meals, fair trade coffees and teas. Craft also features during the summer months.The Market opens Saturdays 9am1pm at the Sligo IT Car Park, Ballinode, Sligo. T: 071 9147007

“organic food that nourishes your body while the scenery nurtures your soul.”

Rathcormac Craft Market This market has in excess of 40 stall holders supplying artisan food and local crafts and is located in Rathcormac Craft Village. Open every Saturday from 10am-3pm at Branleys yard in Rathcormac. The village is also home to Vintage Lane Café. T: 085 2752589

Beltra Country Market Selling home produced baking, deli items, preserves, seasonal locally grown fruit and vegetables. Welcoming vintage-style tearoom featuring members’ own cakes. Fresh crepés made to order. With crafts and workshops for children and adults. Open on Saturdays from 10am-Noon at Beltra Hall, Beltra, Co. Sligo. T: 085 8148896/ 087 6743693

197

ALANTIC SEAWEED

HARVESTING IN THE ATLANTIC SEAWEED Dr. Prannie Rhatigan has been advocating for the benefits of seaweed for over two decades â&#x20AC;&#x201C; encouraging people to integrate this nutrient dense ingredient into our cooking repertoire.

198

ATLANTIC SEAWEED

In recent years seaweed has been celebrated as a new superfood, but of course this rich harvest of the oceans foliage has been around four thousands of years ; we just were not aware of its value. Of the estimated 50,000+ edible plants in the sea, very few seaweeds are used as foods today, and most of those are used in Asia. Dr. Prannie Rhatigan has been advocating for the benefits of seaweed for over two decades – encouraging people to integrate this nutrient dense ingredient into our cooking repertoire. Born and raised by the Atlantic ocean, she first developed a love for seaweed during her childhood in Sligo, harvesting the nutrient rich from the shoreline with family. “As children, my father took us harvesting, where we learned about the glistening crop on the foreshore and how not to get cut off by the tides in early April. These trips to the sea revolved around the seasons, and followed a harvesting pattern.” writes Prannie. “looking back on all that, I realise that we as seaweed gatherers, were just a link in a long and basic chain of survival stretching back thousands of years. The stresses of modern living, coupled with an array of nutritionally poor foods make for a lifestyle as hazardous in some ways as that experienced by our early ancestors.” A medical Doctor and GP by profession, Prannie is well aware of the medicinal values as well as the taste benefits of incorporating seaweed into our daily recipes. Often asked on how to acquire better health, Prannie says that her general advice revolves around what you put on your plate. “ ..the food you eat is directly related to the state of your health and your attitude to life” she says. In November 2009, Prannie

“In November 2009, Prannie released her long awaited and much celebrated book, The Irish Seaweed Kitchen.”

released her long awaited and much celebrated book, The Irish Seaweed Kitchen. In it she offers a collection of artful recipes and traditional folklore as well as up to date medical knowledge on the benefits of including seaweed in the diet. This includes cancer prevention and treatment of nutrient deficiencies. There is the time honoured folk tradition of treating chest problems with carraigeen moss which has been confirmed by modern science. We know now what our ancestors accepted with faith – the high mineral content and gelling agents of Carraigeen naturally sooths a sore throat. Seaweeds can be dried and used as a source of vitamins and minerals and many seaweeds contain valuable natural thickening or gelling agents that are very useful in a range of dishes. Seaweweds are powerhouses of nutrients and are a rich source of minerals that are often lacking in modern day diets – such as magnesium, zinc and calcium. Apart from her work in Public Health, in her personal work Prannie has also explored the relationship between genetics, the environment and the benefits of live foods on health and well-being. She offers talks, lectures and guided seaweed walks in Sligo. Since the publication of her Irish Seaweed Kitchen in , Prannie has also released The Guide to Edible Irish Seaweeds, a pocket sized, splashproof, laminated booklet, designed to survive even the closest encounters with sea and weather. For details of this or to book a seaweed walk with Prannie visit www.irishseaweedkitchen.ie

199

LEITRIM To Sligo

Tullaghan

To Do Askill Rossinver Glenade Kiltyclogher Lurganboy Kinlough

Manor Hamilton Glenfam Drumahaire

Dowra

Drumkeeran

Ballinagle

Ball

Drumshambo

To Sligo

Carrick on Shannon Jamestown

Tullaghan

To Donegal Askill Rossinver Glenade Kiltyclogher Lurganboy Kinlough

Roos

Dowra

Drumkeeran

Blue Flag Beaches on the Wild Atlantic Way

Ballinagleragh

Towns

Ballinamore

Drumshambo Carrick on Shannon Jamestown

Leitrim

Fenagh

Famaght Roosky

200

Newtown Gore Killygar

Cloone Mohill Aghamore

Drumod

Agha

Drumod

Manor Hamilton Glenfam Drumahaire

Leitrim

Carrigallen

Wild Atlantic Way Route WILD ATLANTIC WAY VIEWPOINTS

TRIVIA Leitrim is Irelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s least populous county with just 15.7 people per square kilometer.

201

FELT EXPERIENCE

202

FELT EXPERIENCE

Felting is an ancient textile process believed to be the oldest form in existence.

with Brigitta Varadi

The Hungarian born textile artist Brigitta Varadi has lived in Ireland since 2001. Today she has made her home in Drumshambo Co. Leitrim. Brigitta has developed felting as a unique art form in itself and her work is grounded in an ethos that is entirely in harmony with environmental concerns. Using natural dyes is also integral to Brigitta’s work as an artist – maintaining a sensitivity and integrity of the material in which she works.

Prehistoric samples date from the Neolithic period (6500-6300 B.C), while other important finds come from the Bronze and Iron Ages. Felt was good at keeping people warm and dry in cold weather, especially when knitting hadn’t been invented, and it is clear that people all over Asia and Europe used felt. Roman soldiers used felt pads as armoured vests, felt tunics, felt boots, and felt socks. By about 500 A.D., the Vikings further north made felt blankets too. Felt is still made today in eastern Europe, Asia, and by nomads in Tibet and Mongolia where they use the material for clothing and tent coverings (yurts). Felt fabric is strong, durable, and warm. Norwegian knitters have routinely felted their handmade mittens for warmth and waterresistance. When Scandinavian children come in from playing in the snow, they shed their boots for felted clogs. The felting process is virtually unchanged since ancient times yet its versatility allows the modern textile

and everyday rituals of working life and our constructed environment. The process of creation that is involved in felt making reflects the essence of her work –an erosion of memories through repetitive action till all that remains is the action itself. The raw material of wool is first carded, washed and prepared for use. Dyes are added if required. Wool fibers are next laid out until a dense mesh is created. Through the action of pressure and friction, rolling the moistened fibers together repetitively, a new unit of felt is created. It takes patience, hard work and perseverance to produce any substantial work in felt. Brigitta is well endowed with these qualities. Brigitta’s latest project markings gathers together and explores the different marks that are used by farmers to identify their sheep in the NorthWest region. Creating a dialogue with farmers and their place within the environment, the project opens to a broader reflection concerning the signs and forms of identification we humans use. Brigitta’s work is found in many public and private collections including a site-specific commission by the Office of Public Works for The Department

“As an artist, Brigitta Varadi’s work explores how memory can inform our present-day perspectives on life and artistic expression. ” artist a new perspective on this ancient craft. As an artist, Brigitta Varadi’s work explores how memory can inform our present-day perspectives on life and artistic expression. Brigitta’s use of different patterns and repetition of gesture help her relate to the invisible

of Education and Science, Athlone, Ireland. She has been acknowledged for her contribution to the arts of Ireland by the President, Mary Mc Alesse in 2008. www.brigittavaradi.net

203

204 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

FORAGING IN LEITRIM

FORAGING IN LOVELY LEITRIM Tina Pommer is passionate about nature and for many years she has studied the local landscape, aware of the best places to find local delicacies. She hosts guided walks in the Leitrim countryside and also teaches about wild mushroom foraging at the local Organic Centre in Rossinver. She also holds a diploma in Archaeology and so she is able to incorporate her love of the bounty of nature with an keen awareness of local heritage. ‘At Belhavel in Leitrim there is an incredibly well preserved crannog Promontory Fort”, she says. “There’s a little jetty and you can bring a boat and pick some of these leaves from the boat.” Early Irish settlers in this area would have planted such trees in close proximity to their homes to ensure a ready supply of foods. Today, Tina is keeping this knowledge alive and opening people’s eyes to a to nature and encouraging a newfound respect .

“I am more about teaching people how to forage than gathering baskets of stuff ” she says, “more of a guide than somebody who takes heaps of stuff out of nature. When I started collecting stuff – I quickly realised your taking more than you need most of the time” Now when I bring out a small group into nature, I encourage people to be respectful, everybody can take a handful and have a look. It is all about being sustainable.” says Tina.

There is a species of Willow, the leaves of which are edible and delicious and it is particular to North Leitrim. The leaves of common willow trees can be bitter- due to the presence of the chemical from which aspirin is produced, however, according to Tina, this special breed of willow has leaves that are delicious in a salad”.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 205

FORAGING IN LEITRIM

Leitrim is definitely a hot spot for wild mushrooms. They have a preference for certain soil conditions and the company of certain plants and will only grow when conditions are right. On the continent where summers are hot and dry, the mushroom foraging season is far shorter than in Ireland where mushrooms can be foraged from late June until December. Few realise, however, that the mushroom is only the fruiting body of what is quite an intelligent organism called a mycelium which can grow for kilometres underneath the earth. Mushrooms are neither plant nor animal, and in Tina’s opinion they are closer to the animal kingdom than plants. When it comes to mushroom foraging, if people pick all the mushrooms and trample the mycelium – the organism is likely to just decide to fruit somewhere else instead.

nothing to drink, Tina suggests that you put a few sprigs in your mouth. The lemon flavour is so refreshing that it takes the thirst away!

When out walking another good tree to know is the Larch. This is the only coniferous tree (needle tree) that loses its leaves every year. These larch sprigs are edible and are very aromatic. When used sparingly they can really be a treat. Their flavour is a mix between resin and lemon. If you are going through a forest with

Tina Pommer is available for guided walks in Leitrim. Bookings can be made by calling 00353 (0) 87 9172143 or by e-mail,

Did you know that you could eat the leaves of the birch tree? In early spring when the first tender leaves come out Tina collects these young birch leaves. “These ones are most delicious”, says Tina,” when they are just unfolding they are bright green in colour and thin as paper.” What is Tina’s favourite way to eat these leaves ? ”I put them on buttered bread like a good ham”, she says. “Scrunch them up and cover one side of buttered bread. They give a beautiful flavour. This is an absolute delicacy, so simple and so good. The leaves stiffen up after a few days, you have to get the tender ones, so they are not chewy.”

info@tawnylustlodge.com or visit www.tawnylustlodge.com.

206 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

WAYS OF WALKING In pursuit of a Masters Degree in Art in Public at Ulster University, artist Seamus Dunbar walked from Enniskillen to Ballysadare, tracking the dismantled Sligo, Leitrim and Northern Counties Railway. For him, walking was used as a tool of research and artistic practice. Here he shares some ideas and reflections that can enrich your own journey through and into the Irish landscape. With Artist Seamus Dunbar

’ve trained in a process called Body/ Landscape as a way of exploring the possibilities of being in the landscape in a phenomenological way. This involves techniques

Travel is often now regarded as dead time or space we want to arrive at our destination and often our minds are occupied with thoughts of future plans. In my own work, every step was both an arrival and a departure. What came to interest me was like moving very slowly or moving with eyes the detail, the very immediate experience of closed for an extended period. Using these it. The focus is on the minutiae, plants and techniques one can experience the natural fungi, even the sounds, sloshing through surroundings in a new way. This can be water and mud, even the smells; it really described as getting inside the landscape or becomes a very local journey. Perhaps this allowing the landscape to get inside you. It’s awareness of the present is what it means to a breaking down of the barriers between our walk as an artist. subjectivity and the landscape, such that we no longer feel so separate in our surroundThe route I walked is now being developed ings. We often see ourselves as being quite as a greenway, and the rst section to be alien to our environment. We march across accessible to the public will open at Dromaor move through the land, but we don’t hair this summer. I worry lest it becomes really enter into it; we conquer it, almost. another roadway, or corridor that shuttles Through this new way of being we can people from A to B; focusing on the destibegin to see ourselves as just another part of nation rather than the journey. But perhaps the landscape, another creature or life form there is something my experience can bring within it but not superior to it. that might encourage people to walk more thoughtfully, and with more awareness. Mine was a journey through a landscape Séamus Dunbar is an artist who lives in both topographic and cultural, which has Manorhamilton, Co. Leitrim. His walk shaped me and on which I in turn have left resulted in the exhibition “The Lost and some traces of my activities. Shadowing the Found Office”, and was featured in the BBC physical journey is a socio-cultural one, that NI programme “Walking the Line”. Further cuts an exploratory trench through layers images can be seen on www.seamusdunbar. of history, from the contemporary threat of com hydraulic fracturing, through Northern Ireland’s “Troubles”, partition, the railway era *Phenomenology (from Greek phainómeitself, back through the history of colonisanon “that which appears” and lógos “study”) tion to the early Christian era, and deeper is the philosophical study of the structures still, into the iron, bronze and stone ages. of experience and consciousness.

207

Poem to Ireland I give my heart to thee, O mother- land, I, if none else, recall the sacred womb, I, if none else, behold the loving eyes Bend over on thy myriad progeny Who care not nor regard thee as they go, O tender, sorrowing, weeping, hoping land I give my heart to thee, O mother land I give my heart to thee, heroic land, To thee or in thy morning when the Sunday flashed on thy giant limbs- thy lurid noonOr in thy depth of night, Fierce-thoughted one, Wrestling with phantoms Of thy own wild soul Or, stone-still, silent, waiting for the dawn, I give my heart to thee, heroic land. I give my heart to thee, ideal land, Far-soaring sister of the starry throng, O fleet of wing what journeyings are thing, What goal, what God attracts thee? What unseen glory reflected Makes thy face a flame? Leave me not, where thou goest, let me go. I give my heart to thee ideal land. Standish O Grady

208

209

IRELAND'S ORGANIC CENTRE

It is a pleasure to drive through the Leitrim countryside. Departing from the wild atlantic one can drive inland along one of Irelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most scenic routes by the shores of spectacular Lough Melvin. Travelling out from the Donegal town of Bundoran via Kinlough and onto the R281 will finally bring you along to the quiet Leitrim countryside and one of Irelandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s loveliest environmental education centres.

210

The Organic Centre in Rossinver, Co. Leitrim was established in 1995 as a non-profit making company with charitable status (CHY 11547). The centre is located on a 19 acres site in and operates from an ecologically designed building with a grass roof winning an award for “most appropriate building located in the countryside”. The Organic Centre is where Ireland’s organic growers come to learn their trade. The aim of the centre is to provide training and education, information and demonstration of organic gardening, growing and sustainable living. The word Organic refers to a holistic approach to farming and food production. Organic growing encourages biodiversity on farms and in their surroundings. There is also an emphasis on maintaining the long-term fertility and biological activity of the soil and minimising pollution and waste. Through their working gardens, and other areas of demonstration, the Organic Centre provides an invaluable resource for education and training for both the public and specialist visitors. Each year since it opened, the Centre has seen significant development. It is certainly an inspiring example of nature’s abundance and cutting edge knowledge of how to work in harmony with the environment. Among their many awards, they have received the Euro-Toques Award 2012 “For outstanding contribution to Irish Food through training and education” and have also been recognised by the Bridgestone and McKennas “Best in Ireland” award for many years. Visitors to the centre can explore two unique demonstration gardens, the kitchen garden and the Robin’s garden which show a productive small-scale family garden and a community garden run by a group of 21 local people. In addition to this, are a range of 9 polytunnels showing protected cropping on both a domestic and commercial scale. So, whether you are an avid gardener, a lover of nature or curious about sourcing high quality ingredients, Rossinver offers plenty of insight and opportunity to

gather practical knowledge. For the eco-conscious there are also compost display areas showing different methods of composting and recycling as well as the pioneering wetland sewage disposal system. Families will enjoy the exciting willow sculpture area with is growing every year with new features added. In the orchard, there are 50 varieties of apples suited to the Irish climate and a soft fruit area where hardy varieties are being tested. There is also a native woodland to explore. At present the centre provides over 100 short courses ranging from gardening, food production and healthy cooking to crafts and renewable energy. Participants come from all over Ireland and some from abroad. Our major events throughout the year are our Annual Potato Day in March, The Garden Party in July and our Harvest Festival and Apple Day in September. The Organic Centre also has an Eco Shop which stocks garden organic seeds, tools, books, herb plants, seasonal vegetables and a range of organic and fair trade wholefoods. If you would like to visit the Organic Centre for an educational tour, pre-booking is advised. Participants can choose workshops about composting, propagation, protected cropping and organic food production. On site there is also the popular Grass Roof Café which is open at weekends for course participants and the public. It can also cater for groups by arrangement and can be hired for outside catering. Just a short walk from the Organic centre, you can also enjoy Fowley’s falls, which is a waterfall accessed via a scenic and magical river walk. The Organic Centre is open to the public 10am to 5pm from Tuesday to Sunday from March to October. For further information phone 071-98 54338, e-mail info@ theorganiccentre.ie or visit www.theorganiccentre.ie.

211

DONEGAL

212

TRIVIA When Red Hugh ‘O Donnell escaped from Dublin Castle in 1592 with Art and Henry O Neill, they became the only prisoners in history to successfully escape captivity in Dublin Castle.

Ireland’s most northerly point is Inistrahull Island, 7km north off the coast of Donegal.

MALIN HEAD BALLYHIERNAM BAY FANAD HEAD ROSSGUILL HORN PENINSULA HEAD

TORAIGH

Fanad Bay

Portnablagh CNOC FOLA GABHLA

INIS BO FINNE

Bunbeg

Marble Hill

Ballyliffin Gleneely

DUNREE HEAD

ISLAND ROY

DOECASTLE VIEWPOINT

Malin

Buncrana

Milford Kilmacrenan

ARAN MHOIR

Burtonport

MALAIDH GHLEANN GHEIS

Letterkenny

Dunglow

INISFREE

Narin-Portnoo Strand Glenties Ardara

Killybegs

MALIN BEAG IONAD Fintra SLIABH CIONN LIAG MHUCROIS

MOUNT CHARLES PIER

Lisfanon Beach INCH ISLAND

KINNAGOE BAY INISOWEN HEAD MAGILLIGAN VIEWPOINT

White Castle BALLYMASTOCKER STRAND

To Derry

Ballybofey

Donegal Murvagh Rossknowlagh Ballyshannon Bundoran

To Leitrim Blue Flag Beaches on the Wild Atlantic Way Towns Wild Atlantic Way Route WILD ATLANTIC WAY VIEWPOINTS

213

214 214 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

A TURNING TIDE

A TURNING TIDE Filmed over eight years, A Turning Tide in the Life of Man follows John O’Brien, a small-scale fisherman from the island of Inis Bó Finne, as he embarks on a journey to save his community by navigating the corridors of Brussels and the intricacies of a reform of the EU Common Fisheries Policy. The film documents the threats faced by small-scale fishermen and coastal communities. The years leading up to Ireland’s strike for freedom, the1916 Rising, saw a growing idealisation of the lives led by farmers and fishermen of the west of Ireland. People sought hope and an alternative to the ugliness of the industrial development model and the centralisation that came with it. Along the western seaboard and the islands, communities still hold knowledge of a world in balance. In contrast to the factory ships whose methods present a threat to the life and health of our oceans small scale fishermen have long respected the rhythms of the seasons and ensured that fish stocks are allowed to recover. Here, fishing has been a way of life and is one thread in a complex weave that makes up the living heritage of this country. John ‘O Brien, and fishermen like him wish to pass on their knowledge and skills to their children, and the culture that this way of life supports. Ireland has been good to me, since my arrival on the Tim Severin boat replica called the St Efflam in 1999, (17 years ago), coming from Brittany in France, I have long been fascinated with the life of the Islanders and the sea. Through my films I share a vivid experience of the rich maritime culture of this country. My most recent film “A turning tide in the life of man” underlines a very emotive and deep issue among the fishermen of Ireland’s Islands and coastal regions - many of them Gaelic speaking: the loss of their right to fish as their ancestors

have done for generations. The threatened loss of Ireland’s indigenous and sustainable fishing tradition has undermined the cultural life of our coastal peoples. Living by the sea is not just about the fishing, it is a way of life. Songs, stories and ancient traditions are also sustained through this lifestyle. As future generations are forced to emigrate or move to the cities, a way of life is being lost. Ireland’s people have been farmers and fishermen for generations, living in harmony with the needs of the land, the environment. Today as we collectively face issues such as that of Climate Change, I believe that we also need to start looking to how our ancestors lived and honour our rich maritime heritage. Born in France in 1971, Loïc Jourdain decided to settle inDonegal in 2003 while shooting his first film in Ireland Tory Island, after the prophecy. He set up his production company Lugh Films and his award-winning documentary A Turning Tide in the Life of Man(2015) is part of a world wide campaign to save Ireland’s maritime culture and restore the fishing rights for Ireland’s coastal communities. Follow the film on Twitter @ Bealstoirme. New episodes from the filming of A Turning Tide are regularly updated on the campaign facebook page. www.a-turning-tide-in-the-life-of-man-film.eu

“If I choose to tell this story through the “little window”, through the eyes of one man, one family and one community, it is because it’s essential for the public to identify themselves with John’s case. Through him, it’s possible to truly and deeply understand the need for survival, the reason for the fight, the responsibility he carries in defence of ancient traditions and local knowledge in order to keep his own dignity and to be an example for his children.“ Loic Jourdain

Loic Jourdain 215

216 216 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

TURF, SALMON & SMOKE

TURF, SALMON AND SMOKE “When you think back to your childhood of the things you used to do.” says Declan. “You’d go on your bike, and go fishing, and light a fire next to the bank and eat a piece of fish that’s cooked fresh from the river bank. That never leaves you that’s a taste memory. The only way I can describe it to yourself I feel is like a songwriter with a tune nagging in their brain – its’ that compulsion of having to do it.” “When you think back to your childhood of the things you used to do.” Says Declan. “You’d go on your bike, and go fishing, and light a fire next to the bank and eat a piece of fish that’s cooked fresh from the river bank. That never leaves you that’s a taste memory. The only way I can describe it to yourself I feel is like a songwriter with a tune nagging in their brain – its’ that compulsion of having to do it..” After many attempts and experiments, Declan found a way to recapture the taste of his childhood, of locally caught salmon prepared over a turf fire. Today, the unique produce of the Haven Smokehouse is that memory come to life. With turf harvested by hand, and fish that is organic, locally farmed and hand selected – Declan speaks of old world values and the earthy heart of his Donegal home: “Peat is 10,000 years old in the making and we dig it, take it out let it dry we use it for heating homes. The smell is so evocative of home, when you’ve travelled and you’ve gone away – you come back and you breathe deeply and you say: this is home” The Haven Smokehouse was born of dedication and one man’s quest to recapture the tastes of his childhood. Flying in the face of industrial values for efficiency and high scale

mass production – at the Haven Smokehouse Declan does the work by hand. Filletted by hand, no machinery, smoked by hand, no machinery to have an element of a time gone by. “A salmon with an old soul- that’s what I wanted.”, says Declan. Contrary to popular understanding The Haven Smokehouse do not use salt to cure salmon - they use smoke! Salt is used to create a pellicle on the flesh to let smoke stick to it. Given time, smoke will slowly displace the moisture in the salmon, therefore curing and creating a low salt product. A wonderful short film has been produced about Declan’s journey with Turf Smoked Salmon set in the beautiful countryside of Donegal. www.theperennialplate.com You can also find more about about this Donegal Smoked Salmon on www.thehavensmokehouse.com

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 217

“When I started on this journey, I only knew one thing - I had to do it!” says Declan “There was a picture in my mind, Of what the ultimate smoked salmon should look and taste like.” After many late nights and many mistakes, I realised it was a taste of my memories, of a time when simplicity was understanding. And knowledge was watching the salmon, with the old soul.”

fter many attempts and experiments, Declan found a way to recapture the taste of his childhood, of locally caught salmon prepared over a turf fire. Today, the unique produce of the Haven Smokehouse is that memory come to life. With turf harvested by hand, and fish that is organic, locally farmed and hand selected – Declan speaks of old world values and the earthy heart of his Donegal home:

Flying in the face of industrial values for efficiency and high scale mass production – at the Haven Smokehouse Declan does the work by hand.

“Peat is 10,000 years old in the making and we dig it, take it out let it dry we use it for heating homes. The smell is so evocative of home, when you’ve travelled and you’ve gone away – you come back and you breathe deeply and you say: this is home”

Contrary to popular understanding The Haven Smokehouse do not use salt to cure salmon - they use smoke! Salt is used to create a pellicle on the flesh to let smoke stick to it. Given time, smoke will slowly displace the moisture in the salmon, therefore curing and creating a low salt product.

The Haven Smokehouse was born of dedication and one man’s quest to recapture the tastes of his childhood.

Filletted by hand, no machinery, smoked by hand, no machinery to have an element of a time gone by. “A salmon with an old soul- that’s what I wanted.”, says Declan.

Europes Highest Sea Cliffs The Sliabh Liag Cliffs, on the South West Coast of County Donegal, are the highest and one of the finest examples of marine cliffs in Europe. Standing 601 metres (1972ft) above the Atlantic Ocean, Sliabh Liag offers a unique experience to view an untouched landscape,

www.sliabhliagtours.com

boasting many forms of wildlife, including seabirds big and small, and if you are lucky you may see some dolphins or whales passing by. The cliffs are made up mainly of quartzite and schist, with sheer faces of rock standing above the roaring ocean, with many sea stacks scattered along the rugged shore below. Standing at the viewing point, 165 metres above the sea, you can take in the fantastic views of the Wild Atlantic, Sligo, Mayo, Rathlin O’Beirne Island and Donegal bay, with lots of photo opportunities and plenty of space to explore in safety. Experienced walkers might want to venture beyond the viewing platform onto the Cliffs and the “One Man’s Pass”, which loops onto the pilgrim path, and also covers part of the “International Appalachian Trail”. The sacred Sliabh Liag Mountain has drawn Christian pilgrims for over 1000 years, and some of the early Christian monks’ beehive huts and church ruins still remain on top of the mountain. Sliabh Liag Tours is a family run business, established over 30 years ago by Joe Haughey, situated in Teelin Co. Donegal at the base of Europe’s highest sea cliffs. We at Sliabh Liag Tours offer a special service to individuals and to groups of all sizes who wish to visit the cliffs, as access to the cliffs is unsuitable for coaches and large volumes of traffic, we run a guided shuttle bus service from the Slieve League Cliffs Centre to the viewing point. Along with the breathtaking views, the surrounding area is steeped in history. On the short journey to the cliffs ,our drivers and guides will point out all of the interesting landmarks and structures left on the mountain from hundreds of years ago, in the form of Napoleonic towers and navigational aids used by aircraft during World War II. You will learn the history of the cliff itself and of the

Sliabh Liag Tours provide a guided shuttle bus service to the viewing point at Sliabh Liag, from the Slieve League Cliffs Centre. We cater for all groups, and whether you are just viewing or if you are up to the challenge of walking and crossing the famous “One Man’s Pass” we can pick up/drop off on any of the many quality walks in the area. So why not join our many loyal customers from all over the world and share in the Sliabh Liag Experience. Sliabh Liag Tours, Rhannakille, Teelin, County Donegal, Ireland. PHONE

Aidan: +353 (0)87 6711 944 Joe: +353 (0)87 2860 471 EMAIL

sliabhliagtours@eircom.net

people who have inhabited the area throughout the ages, in a fun and exciting way. So to connect with Sliabh Liag Tours, you can call or email with any queries, and we will be happy to help you on the way to your “Sliabh Liag Experience”.

218

www.sliabhliagtours.com

Photograph by Fergus Burke.

Travel the Wild Atlantic Way Buy an Open Road Ticket from Expressway Experience the Wild Atlantic Way with Expressway from Bus Éireann – Ireland’s only nationwide coach network. Our Open Road Ticket allows you unlimited 3 day travel on all Bus Éireann scheduled services, meaning that you can travel as often as you like, when you like, and all for just €60. Have a real adventure – experience the Wild Atlantic Way with Expressway.

ONLY 60 HOP ON

HOP OFF

OVER 3 DAYS

Buy your ticket at buseireann.ie or in any of our stations!

Like the car. Only better.

Wildatlanticway_A4_120215.indd 1

219

12/02/2015 12:23

Horn Head Discovery Point of Horn Head Eastwards to the coastal promontory fort of Duncap Isle, rival the Cliffs of Moher not just in height but definitely in variety of dramatic views and accessibility. In days of very good visibility the mountain range “The Paps of Jura” on the Island of Jura off the West coast of Scotland can be observed. There are two splendid viewing points on Horn Head one on the North side where the cliffs dominate the scenery and the other on the South side, overlooks Horn Head “I am off on holiday to Dunfanaghy ..., to the wildest, loneliest and loveliest country I know, a country of hills, and hollows, of lakes and woods, of cliffs, mountain rivers, inlets of sea, sands, ruined castles and memories from the beginning of the world.” George Russell (-AE,c.1905)

orn Head is a magnificent peninsula jutting out into the wild Atlantic Ocean, giving shelter to the village of Dunfanaghy and Sheephaven Bay. It has been designated as a Natural Heritage Area. New Lake near Dunfanaghy was formerly part of the inlet with salt water marsh but alterations to local sand dunes meant the marsh filled with fresh water and became a lake. Over time New Lake became a haven for seabirds and is now a Special Protection Area. Horn Head which can be visited via the picturesque seaside village of Dunfanaghy has been described by the noted early 20th century Naturalist and Botanist, Robert Lloyd Praeger, as “perhaps the finest headland in Ireland”. This is probably the most dramatic of the beautiful Donegal peninsulas. Visitors get a real sense of the power of the Atlantic while standing at these cliffs. The viewpoint on Coastguard Hill at approx 700ft (213m) shows Atlantic Ireland at its best. The vista starts in the South-West with Aranmore Island and Bloody Foreland, Tory Island and the three inner isles. To the North the viewer has a bird’s eye view of the restless North Atlantic and the opportunity to spot Basking Sharks, Sperm Whale and pods of Dolphins, frequently seen quite close to shore. Looking North -East one sees Melmore Point, Fanad Head with its lighthouse and Ireland’s most Northerly point, Malin Head and Tor Beg rock - but none can match the drama of Horn Head’s cliffs, their tops carpeted in a covering of purple heather. The cliffs, from the point

@ Martin Fleming Photography McAuliffes-Craft-Shop-Fp advert and FP editorial.indd 1

220

Killahoey Blue Flag Beach C

Dunfanaghy village and Killahoey Blue Flag Beach. During the nesting season the almost 660ft (200m) rock face scored by ledges comes alive with nesting sea-birds. It has been designated as an Irish Natural Heritage Area and a Refuge for Fauna (specifically sea birds). M

CMY

Horn Head is packed with reminders of our early ancestors. There are dolmens and court cairns dating back to Neolithic times, a stone circle, cashels and ring forts. The latter are evidence of Iron Age fortified homes. A discovery last century of a hoard of fine golden torcs on the slopes of Largatraney gives a glimpse of a level of prosperity we would not have otherwise imagined. This collection can be seen in the National Museum in Dublin. (Most of the monuments can be found on the Discovery Series Ordnance Survey Maps). K

Two new way-marked walks are almost ready for opening. The longer one will enable visitors to walk out to the horn itself and enjoy the spectacular views from the cliffs. The shorter walk will take visitors out above the magical Tramore Beach and back through the dunes with their unique flora and fauna. This magnificent sandy beach with breath-taking views of the islands of Tory and Innisbofin is also accessible directly from Horn Head bridge. Horn Head discovery point offers an unforgettable experience. Tramore Beach

McAuliffes Craft Shop FP_WAW 2018.pdf 1 30/11/2017 18:55:02

www.mcauliffescraftshop.com

30/11/2017 18:55:47

221

Donegal Airport FP_WAW 2018.pdf 1 23/01/2018 16:29:19

Where could you be in less than 1 hour Fly Fly Donegal Donegal -- Dublin Dublin Fly Fly Donegal Donegal -- Glasgow Glasgow Book now on Dublin

Glasgow

Donegal

Explore the

‘Wild Atlantic Way’

from Donegal Airport with

Enterprise rent-a-car

CMY

Tel: 00353 74 9548284

Book Dublin www.aerlingus.com Book Glasgow www.loganair.co.uk E: info@donegalairport.ie W: www.donegalairport.ie

222

Free WiFi

Find us on Facebook

Book now on www.aerlingus.com

Guided tours 7 days per week 10:00am - 6:00pm Take a

or get away completely

guided tour and climb to the top of the tower

stay in a lightkeeper’s cottage and

Teach Solais Fhánada, Co. Dhún na nGall

teil: 00 353 83 8091199 ríomhphost: info@fanadlighthouse.com

www.fanadlighthouse.com In the North West of Donegal lises the thoroughly charming and modern Downings Bay Hotel, Leisure Centre and Kidz Kingdom. This 40 bedroom family run hotel is ideally situated along the Beautiful Wild Atlantic Way. JC@s Bar & the Haven Dining Room serve locally sourced fresh Donegal Cuisine. Dowmings Bay Hotel is the ideal location for your holiday activitites newarby including golf, hill walking, water sports and much more.

Rooms available From €55pps for more information email info@downingsbayhotel.com Downings, Co Donegal

T:+353 74 915 5586 www. downingbayhotel.com

223

224 224 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

There was always a paper bag of carraigĂn moss in our kitchen press. When the west of Ireland winter brought its coughs and colds, my mother made us caraigin puddings with skimmed milk, a little honey, rum, raisins and chocolate powder or vanilla in a visionary effort at producing a palatable healthy treat.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 225

CARRAIGÍN

CARRAIGÍN Today, carraigín is as popular as ever, and current research tells us that the old folk were correctr in their assessment of its healing properties; it is both antiviral and an expectorant (helps expel phlegm) and was the seaweed of choice to hasten recovery from chest infections. Chondrus crispus and mastocarpus stellatus. Also known as carrageen moss, carragheen, carraigín, Irish moss, jelly moss, cosainin carriage, mousse d’Irlande. Mastocarpus stellatus is also known as cluimhin chait. “The name ‘Carrageen’ was introduced around 1830 and probably came from Carrigan Head in Co. Donegal in north-western Ireland. ‘Carrigan’ or ‘carrageen’ is a common name throughout Ireland. There does not appear to be a standardised spelling.” Michael D. Guiry, Professor of Botany, National University of Ireland, Galway Looking North West from our house across Donegal Bay we can see the sheer 595 cliffs of Slieve League, at the bottom of which lies Carrigan Head, Ceann an Charraigín. Carraigín means ‘little rock’, a description that aptly sums up the steadfast and unshakable position this delicate sea plant has traditionally held in Ireland for many generations. Prepared in kitchens throughout the country to relieve sore throats, coughs, colds and chest problems, it was an equally valuable source of finance to coastal dwellers, who harvested feverishly during the equinox spring tides, so the crop could be spread to dry and bleach in the March winds and rain and be ready for sale a few weeks later. Caoilte Breathnach, writing about folklore from Kinvara, Co. Galway, reports that carraigín was ‘plucked’ (never picked) and sold in Galway for six pennies a stone. Dangerous work, the harvesters sometimes risked getting cut off by incoming tides as they plucked the plant off the rocks and into sacks as quickly

as possible, often damaging their hands in the process. The main buyers were French cosmetic and pharmaceutical firms who used the carraigín for gels and cough mixtures, and London breweries that used it to purify beer. In certain parts of Donegal, washed boiled carraigín, known for its nutritious qualities was fed to calves during lean times to supplement their diets, and during the uyears of the great potato famine, 1846-49, carraigín is said to be one of the three plants that kept many from total starvation, the other two being charlock and nettle. Traditionally it was also used for the treatment of burns where it was boilewd, stored in a cold place and applied to the affected area when needed, according to Peggy Hughes from Carrickfergus. Like the Irish themselves, caraigin has travelled, and become integrated into the folk medicines of other countries. Several recipes abound especially on coastal areas, like Prince Edward Island in Canada where the carraigín is called “Irish Moss’. It was exported as far as New Zealand for making the famous Bonnington’s Irish Moss cough mixture. There is even an Irish Moss Interpretive Centre, where the Seaweed pie Café uses freshly harvested carraigín moss to make their sweet pies. As carraigín transcends centuries and is so steeped in folklore and memories it is fitting that some of the most respected chefs in Ireland keep it firmly in their repertoire as a special treat on their desserts trolly. This is an extract from ‘The Irish Seaweed Kitchen’ written by Prannie Rhatigan and published by Booklink. Learn more about Ireland’s seaweeds on www.seaweed.ie.

DERRY Portstewert Strand

Magilligan Strand

To Antrim

Downhill

Colraine Limavady LondonDerry

To Donegal

Eglinton

Claudy

Aghdowey

Garvagh Kilrea Dungiven Maghera Draperstown Magherafelt Ballyronan Moneymore

Blue Flag Beaches on the Wild Atlantic Way Towns Wild Atlantic Way Route WILD ATLANTIC WAY VIEWPOINTS

226

TRIVIA The Red Hand on the Ulster Flag is reputed to have its origin in a legend about a boat race between rival Irish chieftains, the winner being awarded the kingship of Ulster. The victor, it was agreed, would be the first one whose hand first touched the shore. Losing as he approached the land, the chieftain Heremon Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Neil so loved Ulster that he cut off his hand and flung the bloodied appendage ashore, so claiming victory.

Torr Head in Antrim is just 23 km from Scotland.

Bushmills in Antrim is the oldest WHISKEY DISTILLERY in the world still in operation. It is 401 years old.

The Largest farm in history was owned by Samuel Mc Caughey from Ballymena. Located in Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Northern Territory, it was bigger in size than Northern Ireland.

227

228 228 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

FISHING IN IRELAND

LOUGH NEAGH EELS Lough Neagh is home to the largest wild eel fishery in Europe and the eels produced are regarded as the best available on the continent - a reflection of the high quality natural feeding available to the fish in the lough. The eel fishing industry on Lough Neagh has a rich heritage and is steeped in tradition. A significant proportion of the fishermen are based in the East Tyrone area. Fishing methods have remained largely unchanged for more than a century while fishing techniques and knowledge of the lough have been passed down through successive generations of fishing families.

ough Neagh Fishermen’s Co-operative Society was established in 1965 and markets in excess of 400 tonnes of Lough Neagh eels annually of which approximately 80% are shipped to Holland where they are sold mainly as smoked eel while the remainder goes to Billingsgate in London for sale as fresh eel or are processed for the jellied eel trade. The Eel fishing co-operative was founded in 1965 by a priest, father Oliver Kennedy and it is one of the most unusual examples of Christian ministry on this island. Concerned to safeguard the livelihoods of his parishioners, the co-operative sought to return control of the fishing rights to this local community. When father Oliver arrived in 1961, a powerful London company owned the fishing rights on the Lough and fishermen had to sell eels to the company at whatever price it determined. Families who had fished eels for generations were seeing their livelihoods evaporate. Father Kennedy, who had grown up in Andersonstown in Belfast, knew little about eels, but he soon realised he would have to become an expert. The co-operative began raising money to buy shares in the London-based company. It took six years, but by 1971, the cooperative had accumulated enough shares to buy the company out and take control of

the fishing rights. It was a coup of 'David and Goliath' proportions and it made the front page of many local newspapers. Sadly, across Europe, the eel fishery industry is in crisis due to profit orientated management of fisheries and over fishing. At the Co-operative in Lough Neagh they have been involved in scientific study & research to ensure the security of the eel population. Other measures include fishing quotas for fishermen and a limit on the number of licences issued. In 2011 ‘Lough Neagh Eel’ was granted Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status, the first food product from Northern Ireland to be awarded the status recognising the unique quality of ‘Lough Neagh Eel’ and its connection with the local area and community associated with its production. At the Lough Neagh Fishermen’s Co-operative Society’s premises on the northern shore of Lough Neagh at Toomebridge on the banks of the Lower Bann River, fresh whole eel and smoked eel fillets can be purchased during the season. To learn more visit www.loughneagheels.com

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 229

t the Lough Neagh Fishermenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Cooperative Societyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premises on the northern shore of Lough Neagh at Toomebridge on the banks of the Lower Bann River, fresh whole eel and smoked eel fillets can be purchased during the season.

230 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 231

THE CREATIVE BREW

THE CREATIVE BREW STORY As with artisan food producers across the country, Ireland has a growing craft beer industry, and Derry is no different. True artisan products appear as labour of love and passion for the craft itself. These artisan producers are innovators in their own right – creating unique flavours infused with their own particular style. Up until 1925, Derry’s Watts & Company was the largest whiskey distillery in Ireland and a massive city centre plant covered eight acres, including now Abbey Street, Fahan Street and adjoining thoroughfares. Following a strike in 1921 this one-time world leader in whiskey production then closed for good. Since then, the spirits industry has been quiet in Derry and for more than one hundred years, the city of Derry had no craft brewery in the city centre. This has all changed however since a young brewer named James Huey is taking on the challenge and fast making a name for Derry’s finest craft beers. Having spent 12 years brewing with Ireland’s largest beer company, James set about establishing a craft brewery of his own – fusing his love of craft beer with his love of the city. Exactly 496 days after writing out his vision, James and his wife Louise opened the Walled City Brewery on May 15th 2015. Today, his Walled City Brewery located in Ebrington Square in the city of Derry-Londonderry also offers a unique restaurant where visitors can enjoy their choice of beer with an evening meal. Huey has produced some remarkable creations in the short time since opening the Walled City Brewery, evoking history, culture and the particular joys of Derry. The Walled Brewery maiden brew is “Boom”: a Derry Pale Ale with a fusion of cascade and amarillo hops inspiring tropical and citrus flavours that are wonderfully balanced.

Londonderry was home to 44 shirt factories. The city was once the principal seat of shirt-producing industry exporting to Britain, Ireland, Europe and the colonies. Capturing this fascinating heritage through taste is no easy task but at the Walled City Brewery they appear to have success. Multiple hop varieties are used in this ale, at several different points in the brewing process. With emphasis on late hop and dry hop additions, there are also tropical fruit and citrus flavours and aromas on a bed of pale and Munich malt. Another unique creation is called “Kicks”, inspired by the greatest band ever to come out of Derry – The Undertones! Here, a crystal-clear Sperrin water has the perfect mineral content for this crisp, refreshing pilsner. The wonderful malty sweetness is delicately balanced with a subtle addition of noble and new world hops. Food enthusiasts can marvel at the bacon-infused Snout creation which was added to the Walled Brewery repertoire to celebrate Northern Ireland’s “Breakfast Month”, it was an immediate success. Themed brews are no surprise coming from this master brewer. A Valentine’s edition which has been named “Love LocALE” is infused with Armagh Bramley apples and home grown rhubarb from their garden. And so, another tender partnership with mother nature continues to inspire new brews as Ireland’s artisan food and drink story continues. www.walledcitybrewery.com

Stitch is a unique ale developed by Huey and inspired by the city’s extraordinary shirt-factory history. By 1926, Derry-

232 232 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

GOLFING IN IRELAND Champions Rory McIlroy, Phil Mickelson and Tiger Woods, and actors Will Ferrell, Paul Rudd and Bill Murray all have something in common: they love golf in Ireland. The general theory is that Golf developed in Scotland during the Middle Ages. There is evidence that a forerunner of today's Golf was played in Holland in 1261: Flemish poet Jacob van Maerlant's Boeck Merlijn mentions a ball game "mit ener coluen" (with a “colf/kolf” [club]).

What a colourful history! Today, the game of golf is in full swing and Ireland has many celebrated fairways to enjoy. No wonder then that Ireland 's Golfing Union, dating to 1891, is the oldest in the world. Our first golf course was the Royal Curragh, Co. Kildare, which dates to 1856.

Surprisingly, the council of Brussels banned the game of colf (Golf) in 1360: “... wie met colven tsolt es om twintich scell’ oft op hare overste cleet ..!.” (he who plays at colf pays a fine of 20 shillings or his overcoat will be confiscated!). The first development towards today's Golf courses began in 1389, when Dutch regent Albrecht offered the citizens of Haarlem a field called ‘De Baen’ (the course) to be used exclusively for playing games – especially colf – because these were too dangerous within the city walls. The word golf, or in Scots gowf , is usually thought to be a Scots alteration of Dutch "colf" or "colve" meaning "stick, "club", "bat". One of the oldest Scottish golf organisations, asserts that the game of Golf as it is played over 18 holes, clearly originated in Scotland. In a 1457 Act of the Scottish Parliament, an edict was issued by King James II of Scotland prohibiting the playing of the games of gowf and football as these were a distraction from archery practice for military purposes – this is the first known documented reference to Golf. Here follow some of the most remarkable golf courses on this "Emerald Isle".

GOLFING IN IRELAND

Mulranny Golf Course on the shores of Clew Bay in Co. Mayo Golfers aware of the 90% rule will know that if there’s a chance of passing through an obstruction that is 90% air, you should take the shot. However on Mulranny Golf Course, local wildlife help to maintain the fairways! There are fences of course, but you'll often see sheep or donkeys observing the games or taking in the views of Croagh Patrick and surrounding countryside. As you can discover, Mulranny posits a unique take on this 90% rule.

Lahinch Golf Course in Co. Clare. A special companion to this course is the resident herd of goats who are said to act as weather guides. You are in luck if you see them strolling around the sand dunes but watch out if they are hiding close to the clubhousethis suggests that your prospects aren't so good. You'll be glad you packed an umbrella! This is a favorite haunt of American Golf legend Phil Mickelson, an honourary member. "Some of my fondest memories of great golfing holes in the world include the number four and five holes there," he says. Set snugly by the stunning seaside town, you can enjoy views of white washed home on one side and beautiful beach on another. Spots called the ‘Klondyke’ and ‘Dell’ are known for their blind spots on this course. Here, you’ve only got white stone markers to help guide your aim, and high dunes block the view of the green; an unusual and challenging feature.

Doonbeg Golf Course Co. Clare Doonbeg is shaped by many distinctive high dunes – offering a special challenge . Spanning 1.5 miles of crescent shaped beach Doonbeg offers spectacular views of the Atlantic from 16 of its 18 holes. Many an unwitting golfer has been stumped by the bunkers

guarding the 11th and 12th holes in particular. These can measure as much as 15 foot deep!

Achill Island Golf Course Co. Mayo Overlooking the blue flag beach of Keem Bay and sheltered by the dramatic Slievemore Mountains, Achill Island Golf Course is truly special .

Otway in Co. Donegal This is one of the older courses in Ireland and was founded in 1893. Here you'll need to park any fear of heights and gather your wits about you. The 9th tee is sited on a headland overlooking Mackamish Fort – this mean hitting your ball over the sea, from a cliff. With panoramic views of Lough Swilly and the surrounding countryside, Otway is worth the trip. You'll be sure to hear plenty of shouts :“Fore!”.

Ballybunion Golf Club in Co. Kerry Popular both with former US. President Bill Clinton and austronaut Daniel Tani, the course at Ballybunion has earned it's reputation as one of the finest courses in the country. Bill describes it thus : “It's perfectly Irish: beautiful, rough and a lot like life – you get breaks you don't deserve, both ways. You just have to keep swinging and know it will all even out.”

Old Head Golf Links, Kinsale, Co. Cork The Old Head Golf Links has been designated “top dog” in Links Magazine's listings of the most spectacular golf courses on planet earth. Built on a diamond of land, the spectacular course is unique - jutting out over two miles into the Atlantic Ocean. Golf fans are encouraged to play this course at least once in their life. The 12th hole is said to be the finest challenge. See for yourself!

233

NIGHT DRIVE Taking to the road between earth and sky, there is nothing so stunning as the open sky at night. Here by the western seaboard, you can drink in the beauty of the starry skies. Today, as the majority of us are living in the cities, we have become accustomed to a black sky where light pollution and atmospheric pollution have cloaked our view of the heavens. Looking skywards we can once again see the stars as they once appeared to our ancestors. In awe and wonder, rarely is one more keenly aware of the vast and mysterious universe as we are beneath a clear night sky. In James Joyces’ famous work, Ulysses, we find some beautiful meditations in appreciation of the stars of night: “The heaven tree of stars hung with humid nightblue fruit” “Meditations of evolution increasingly vaster: of the moon invisible in incipient lunation, approaching perigee: of the infinite lattiginous scintillating uncondensed milky way, discernible by daylight by an obersver placed at the lower end of a cylindrical vertical shaft 5000ft deep sunk from the surface towards the centre of the earth : of Sirius (alpha in Canis Major) 10 lightyears (57,000,000,000,000,000 miles) distant and in volume 900 times the dimension of our planet : of Arcturus : of the procession of equinoxes : of Orion with belt and sextuple sun theta and nebula in which 100 of our solar systems could be contained : of moribund and of nascent new stars such as Nova in 1901 : of our system plunging towards the constellation of Hercules : of the parallax or parallactic drift of so called fixed stars, in reality ever-moving from immeasurably remote eons to infinitely remote futures in comparison with which the years, threescore and ten, of allotted human life formed a parenthesis of infinitesimal brevity”. From page 810 of James Joyce’s classic Ulysses”, Perguin Books, 2000.

234

236

OF HANDS & HEART

TRADITIONAL CRAFTS IN IRELAND A journey west also provides ample opportunity to revisit all those essential skills and handcrafts from pottery to woodcarving that are being practiced today all along the Wild Atlantic Way. Ireland is renowned for creativity and passion – here you can find both, and experience the variety and skill of Ireland’s crafts people living and working along our western shores. The Arts-and-Crafts Movement flourished in Ireland between the early 1890s and the late 1920s and is one of the glories of Irish creativity. Arts and Crafts Movement in Ireland and Britain in a climate of resistance to a growing industrial society. Spurred on by the use of fossil fuels, oil, coal and gas - cities grew and rural populations declined. In response to this, the Arts and Crafts movement promoted values such as harmony with nature and the virtues of work as an end in itself. A vision of Irish sovereignity also blossomed in this intellectual climate. It was recognised that there had to be an alternative to the industrial economic model, the rural life was idealised, recognising the virtues of traditional skills. Figures such as William Morris challenged the social divisions of intellectual and manual labour such that the making of crafts and working with one’s hands was seen as a noble occupation. Born into a prosperous family, Morris taught himself embroidery, wood engraving and natural dying, he revived lost techniques in illumination and calligraphy and immersed himself in manual disciplines of craftwork and hand weaving. Beautiful things came to be recognised as being essential to the spirit of Mankind and it was envisaged that all would share in art as part of everyday life. Stained glass artist Harry

Clark, the Yeat’s sisters and the Irish arts and crafts movement in its day Today too, we can feel dismayed by a souless quality of factory mass produced goods. As we visit these skilled makers living along Ireland’s western shores, we can feel the pride and joy of making – we know that hands and heart have worked in unison and that these are truly objects to treasure. Featuring a wide range of skills including textile making and clothing, pottery and ceramics, jewellery, glass and woodworking and furniture there are numerous craft trails on the Wild Atlanic Way. Meet the maker and see for yourself how tradition lives on. For more details visit: www.craftinireland.com

237

TRIVIA

DERRY

The longest distance you can travel in a straight line in Ireland would be from a point on the north east coast of Antrim, east of Ballycastle, to a point on the south west coast of Cork to the east of Schull, a distance of 468km. Between AD 500-800 Ireland’s Monastic Settlements had the status in Europe in educational terms that Harvard, Yale or Oxford enjoy today. Lord Edward Firzgerald, who was one of the leaders of the 1798 rebellion, was also an officially adopted Chief of the Huron Tribe of North American Indians. The Marxist revolutionary Che Guevara’s full name was Che Guevara Lynch, as both his parents were of Irish-Spanish descent. In Hurling, a sliotar (the ball) can travel at speeds of up to 150kph. The body that preceded the Irish Censorship Board was called ‘The Committee on evil literature“ The green white and orange of the Irish Tricolour was inspired by the red, white and blue of the French ticolour after Thomas Francis Meagher had visited Paris during a period of revolution. In 2005, there was one pub for every 350 people in Ireland. In all, Ireland’s coastline measures 1,448 kilometers.

238

239

WALKING AMONG

GIANTS

The Wild Atlantic Way is followed by a Causeway Coastal Route extending from Derry city to the Giant’s Causeway in Co. Antrim. Breath-taking scenery will greet you as you make this exciting journey along the picturesque coast of Northern Ireland. The Giant’s Causeway is made up of over 40,000 basalt columns. Geological studies of these formations over the last 300 years have greatly contributed to the development of the earth sciences, and show that this striking landscape was caused by volcanic activity some 50–60 million years ago. Naturalist David Bellemy has described The Giant’s Causeway as the jewel in the crown of the fabulous coast of Antrim. This site of World Heritage is ranked alongside Mount Everest and the Giant Redwoods of California for its importance. It is today the habitat of rare plants and animals. We ask that you please treat their home with the pride and the care it deserves. For centuries, countless visitors have marvelled at the majesty and mystery of the Giants Causeway. At the heart of one of Europe’s most magnificent coastlines its unique rock formations have, for millions of years, stood as a natural rampart against the unbridled ferocity of Atlantic storms. The rugged symmetry of the columns never fails to intrigue and inspire. To stroll on the Giants Causeway is to voyage back in time. Your imagination will travel along stepping stones that lead to either the creative turbulence of a bygone volcanic age or into the mists and legends of the past. According to legend, the 40,000 or more basalt columns that can be seen here, are the remains of a causeway built by a giant. The story goes that the Irish giant Fionn Mac Cumhaill (Finn MacCool), from the Fenian Cycle of Gaelic mythology, was challenged to a fight by the Scottish giant Benandonner. Fionn accepted the challenge and built the causeway across the North Channel, so that the two giants could meet. In one version of the story, Fionn defeats Benandonner and in another, Fionn hides from Benandonner when he realises that his foe is much bigger than he. Fionn’s wife, Oonagh, disguises Fionn as a baby and tucks him in a cradle. When Benandonner sees the size of the ‘baby’, he reckons that its father, Fionn, must be a giant among giants. He ees back to Scotland in fright, destroying the causeway behind him so that Fionn could not follow. Across the sea, there are identical basalt columns (a part of the same ancient lava ow) at Fingal’s Cave on the Scottish isle of Staffa, and it is possible that the story was influenced by this. The Irish name of the Giant’s Causeway, Clochán na bhFomhóraigh or Clochán na bhFomhórach means “stepping stones of the Fomhóraigh”. The Fomhóraigh are a race of supernatural beings in Irish mythology who were sometimes described as giants. www.giantscausewayofficialguide.com

240

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 241

WALKING AMONG GIANTS

241

242 242 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

SURFING THE WILD

A first Irish surfer is said to have been one Joe Roddy who rode the waves off Dundalk on Ireland’s east coast in a self-made board around the year 1949. Those in the know would tell you that the Irish beaches of Kerry’s Inch Strand, Clare’s Lahinch, Keel or Bundoran in Donegal are among some of the best surf outside of Hawaii!

The crew of the HMS Endeavour under one Captain James Cook were the first peoples to witness the art of surfing. That was in 1769 when they landed in Polynesia. Surfing was suppressed and almost forgotten through the influence of western missionaries. However, westerners revived surfing when it was rediscovered almost simultaneously in both America and Australia. A revival in its native Hawaii followed. Today , surfing’s popularity continues to grow. A first Irish surfer is said to have been one Joe Roddy who rode the waves off Dundalk on Ireland’s east coast in a self-made board around the year 1949. The names of Kevin Cavel and Ian Hill are remembered as progenitors of Ireland’s surf scene which became a firm phenomenon in the 1960’s. Today Ireland’s surf scene continues as Ireland bears out a reputation as one of the surf capitals of the world. Origins of surfing can be traced to somewhere in the Pacific ocean some three thousand years ago. Among archaeologists, ancient Peru is believed to have been the cradle of surfing. Images of people riding on waves on what very much resemble surfboards adorn pottery found these. The “boards” that appear on the pottery are considered to be half way between a boat and a surfboard and are called “Caballito de Totora”. These ancient surf boards are thought to have been made from buoyant reeds.

Surfing the Wild Atlantic Waves

www.surfingireland.com www.bundoransurf.com

SURFING THE WILD

243

244 244 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

SHIPWRECKS OF IRELAND

SHIPWRECKS OF IRELAND Ireland might be a small country but its offshore area certainly isn’t. The massive Irish offshore area of 850,000 square km reaches out towards Iceland North America and the Iberian peninsula. Efforts are underway to catalogue all of the known shipwrecks that lie in Irish waters, and these efforts, using the latest surveying technologies, have yielded a rich harvest of previously unknown wreck sites.

This watery realm has devoured many vessels and seafarers. Until recently, much of the hard data on shipwrecks lying in Irish waters was fragmented and very confused. However, a project to survey shipwrecks in Irish waters by combining all the known information and generating new data along the way had proven extremely successful. The shipwreck project supported by the Geological Survey of Ireland (GSI) and the National Monuments Service (NMS) was completed at the end of 2006. Using the ;attest om seafloor imaging techniques, spectacular 3-D images have been made of famous wrecks such as the Lusitania as they appear today on the seabed. The project managed to increase the number of shipwreck records from 140 when it began, to 246 when it was completed. Many of these new records correspond to “new shipwrecks’ previously unknown. In time, the identity of these wrecks can now be revealed either by divers, or robotic submersibles. There is a great deal of interest in shipwrecks from divers, and the general public. The tale is dramatic, recounting a desperate life-and-death struggle that took place in Irish waters over two World Wars involving German U-Boats and the British Navy. Older boats sank too of course, just think of the Spanish Armadam but these boats were made of wood and thus, very little is likely to remain on the seabed from such early times. The oldest known shipwreck in Irish waters is the Queen Victoria, which sank in a storm off Howth in 1853. This was a wooden vessel, and all that is left of it now are its metal boilers.

To learn more about these sea wrecks around Ireland visit: www.Irishwrecks.com A comprehensive database of more than 14,000 shipwrecks in Ireland’s coastal waters.

The project to survey shipwrecks, name and locate them is not exclusively of interest to divers, who can be fanatical in their enthusiasm for wrecks, and members of the public with an interest in naval history. Others are interested too, for example fishermen. Shipwrecks provide a hazard for fishing vessels whose nets can get caught in them so the fishing community would like to know precisely where all the wrecks are located. For marine biologists meanwhile, wreck data provides an opportunity to study the unique micro-habits that exist around wrecksm while marine geologists can learn more about sub-sea sedimentary processesm by looking at how sediments behave around these wrecks.

SHIPWRECKS OF IRELAND

245

THE CHILDREN OF LIR CLANN LIR The originals are hanging Killorglin, County Kerry in the offices of FEXCO. Unfortunately, they are not open to the public but next door in Killorglin library, there is a permanent exhibition of her Seven Ages collection open to the public see link- http://www.paulinebewick.ie/kerry_collection.html Open Monday to Saturday, 10am until 5pm.

246

people remembered as the Tuatha Dé Danann once ruled Ireland. They are said to have come across the waters from the far east. Scythia and come to Ireland via Spain. A soulful people skilled in music and poetry, they also had gifts of magic and enchantment. Records describe them as being tall and fair of face like the Gaels descendants of Goidel son of Mil who conquered them.

t one time a king of the name Bov Deareg ruled the Tuatha de Danann. Another leader, Lir, was his rival to the throne. On loosing his bid for kingship, Lir went to live apart from the rest of the tuatha de Danann. To placate Lir and maintain peace, as was the tradition at the time, Bo Deareg sent one of his three children, a daughter named Aev to be a wife to Lir. Together they bore four children – three boys; Fiachra, Aodh and Conn. And a daughter named Fionnula. Sadly, Aev did not survive long after the birth of her fouth child Conn. Bo Deareg, seeing that Lir needed a mother for his children, send another daughter –Aoife to be a wife to him.

ow, Lir’s children are said to have been the most beautiful children ever seen in Ireland. They had bright red lips, snow white skin and eyes that shone green when they gazed upon the sea-blue when they looked skyward. So handsome were they that the King Bov Deareg would visit just to delight in the sight of them playing , full of the blooms of youth.

ir was close to his children and loved them dearly – far more he loved them than ever would he care for his new wife ! This over time brought a hardness to Aoife’s heart. She grew jealous and angry. One day, she took a chariot and put her four step children into it and set out on the road towards Bov Deareg’s Palace. They stopped on the way at a lake called “Lake of the Oaks” and there she sent the children to bathe and play in the water.

here they were playing happily as usual, when she took her magic wand and chanted a spell as she touched each one.

“

From now my dears, no more shall you near, with flocks of birds you’ll fly, and in cries of birds, no more human words, you’ll live and never die”

nd, one by one, they were transformed into majestic white swans! The children, now terrified at their trusted mother’s callous magic begged her to undo her magic. They longed to be turned once more into their own, beautiful, human forms. Aoife refused. She laughed now at their misery, her jealousy avenged. Finally, Fionnula, who was the eldest of the four children spoke: “you have played a wicked spell on us Aoife. But at least please can you put some limitations on this enchantment so that one day we may be human beings once more?”

humble birds”.

n hearing of the fate of his only children Lir rushed to the side of the Lake of Oaks. On seeing the four swans he asked them what had happened. And so Fionnula told him of their fate: “ from this time forth, we shall remain as swans- we have not the power to live with any human being. But we have our own language, the Irish and we have the power to sing sweet music, and it is enough to satisfy any man to listen to that music. Stop here tonight. We will be making music for you”.

ir returned that night in company with al the noble dwellers of the Palace and all weer indeed delighted with the music that they heard. Lir set off soonafter for Bov Deareg’s castle and told him what Aoife had done. The High King was furious with Aoife. Striking her with a druid wand he turned her into a Cailleach na Gaoithe, a Witch of the Air and she went from the earth in that formless shape of the wind. And she’s yet in it!

t this, Aoife agereed; “But it would be better for you if you had not asked me! For three hundred years you will remain on this Lake of Oaks, for three hundred years after you will go to the Isle of Maoile between Ireland and Scotland; and then three hundred years more you will spend at Inis Gluaire, on the Wild north coast of Ireland. You will not take again your human forms until you hear a bell chanting in honour of God three times a day in Ireland.”

hose were Aoife’s last words to the poor children now in their sorry state – 900 years to live out their term in the form of swans.

T S

he ordered her step-children out of her sight, but, for a moment, her heart softened as she turned to go. “Ah, but you will have one saving grace – you will retain your beautiful human voices and sing the sweet music of the fairies. And your own sense of nobility will remain with you. It will not weigh so heavily upon you to be in the shape of

eanwhile, each day at the lake where the Swan Children were singing, thousands of nobles gathered to listen to their wonderful music. Never before had there been such a delight in Ireland as the sweet music of the Swan Children. Every day was spent telling stories, each night they sang the music of the fairies. Anyone who heard that music would sleep soundly and whatever troubles or long sickness he may have had would be lifted by that music of the birds. nce three hundred years had passed for the Swan Children on that Lake of the Oaks, Fionnula told her brothers “Now it is time for us to leave our home on this Lake of Oaks and go to the Isle of Maoile, far across the sea “ Alas her brothers were sad at this news. Their time at the Lake had been happily spent in its own way talking and singing with their many visitors form the Gaels and the Tuatha de Danann.

continued

247

THE CHILDREN OF LIR CLANN LIR

he ordered her step-children out of her sight, but, for a moment, her heart softened as she turned to go. “Ah, but

you will have one saving grace – you will retain your beautiful human voices and sing the sweet music of the fairies. And your own sense of nobility will remain with you. It will not weigh so heavily upon you to be in the shape of humble birds”.

248

n the Isle of Maoile, their feathers would often freeze in the ice and their wings heavy from the cold sea spray. There was once a furious storm there where one of the children of Lir was almost lost to the others. What could they do? Neither swan nor human, who had they for companionship? They were swept away in the powerful waves, tossed in the foam and whipped far from one another. Fionnula, who was wisest of the four children, called out that they would meet again on the Island of Seals.

ionnula then waited three days on that Island of Seals for her brothers. She grew sad as she feared she would perhaps never again see them. But to her joy, there was Conn returning to her, the youngest of her brothers, against the setting sun coming towards her. His head hung low, his feathers wet through , a miserable sight. Soon after him Fiachra arrived, likewise wet and perished with the cold. Spreading her wide white wings, Fionnula welcomed her brothers and held them close to her to dry them. There they lay on the seal Island. Three swan children awaiting their third brothers . He came at last, his feathers a dazzling white as he flew to them against the bright sunshine. They rejoiced to be together at last those swan children. It is a pity indeed that not a soil was there to hear their beautiful music except the seals on that cruel island. With the roar of the sea and the crashing waves off the island of Maoile it was little chance they had to tell stories to one another. Their final three hundred years were spent on Inis Gluaire.

inally, having done the time allotted them by that cruel step-mother Aoife, the children set off to return to their own country of Lir. Flying and singing songs they soared through the air. But when they returned, having lived some nine hundred years as swans, nothing remained of the life they once knew. No one was left of those who they had known in their lifetime. The castle was empty and nothing was inside of it but green hillocks and thick nettles. Neither fire nor hearthstone was there to welcome them home. Next day they returned to Inis Gluaire and all the birds of Ireland gathered near them on Loc na n-Ean, the lake of birds. Everyday they

would set out from here to the far parts of the country to feed on all the western isles of Connaught.

t was at this time in history that the Saint Patrick arrived in Ireland, with stories of the Christ and the forgiveness of sings. HE was a passionate teacher and through him many priests and missionaries sprang up across Ireland. One of these, St. Mackevig arrived on Inis Gluaire. On the island he built a small chapel. One of the mornings as he was putting on his vestments to say a mass, he heard a melodious song of the swan children coming across the water to him. “What beautiful music” he declared. “ ah, one who sings so beautifully as that could be singing hymns in my church to praise God”.

earching around the island of inis Gluaire, the missionary discovered to his astonishment that it was four white swans, and not human beings, who were making the music. Being a kind man of God, St. Mackevig’s heart was touched indeed by the sufferings of the children of Lir who were neither Swans nor humans. He invited them to come to his church each day as he thought the mass and praises offered to God would be of some comfort to them. On their request, he made them a little chain of silver, one between Fionnula and Conn and another between Aodh and Fiachra. The Children of Lir told the priest they would come to his church.

the prophecy of their step mother that they would once again assume human form when a bell was run in Ireland three times a day in honour of God.

las, what St. Mackevig saw that day was not the blooming faces of three young men and fair young girl but rather an old withered woman and three frail old men. Nine hundred years had passed since that curse had been put on them.

“

A pity for you Children of Lir to find yourselves like this, human beings once more but crippled to the floor the weight of time on your shoulders”. St. Mackevig then gave them each a blessing with waters of a nearby holy well. Soon afterwards, they died. Their time on earth had been a sad one. Yet it would not be so in eternity.

he End.

rriving at the small church the following morning there was some trouble about this as holy men from other islands heard about these enchanted singing birds. Local people spoke that it was not right to bring a swan into a Holy Mass or into a church. St. Mackevig, however, was a holy man close to God as well as a saint. He knew that the Almighty would certainly be very pleased to hear the beautiful music coming from the children of Lir.

t so happened that at the mass one morning, three bells rang- breaking the nine hundred year old spell the three children had be put under by their step-mother Aoife. In no time at all, they took the form of humans again. This was

249

IRISH

250

SEASHORE LIFE Walking along the shore at the high tide mark you can often encounter debris that was left behind by the tide. On this strandline you can sometimes find some interesting or unusual objects. Some of these may have come from the deeper waters of the ocean, attached to a ship wreck or freely floating to arrive upon the shore. The ocean covers an immense area and is inhabited by countless forms of plant and animal life. Here is a selection of the creatures you are likely to meet in the rock-pools around Ireland’s shores. MERMAID’S PURSE Sparrán na caillí mairbhe Scyliorhinus canicula

This is an egg case laid by the dogfish in deeper waters. Long twisted tendtils are to be found on each corner which once were used to attach the egg case to seaweed or other floating structures. Light brown in colour, the “mermaid’s purse” is only seen when it is washed upon the shore. By this time it is usually quite dry and hard. The mermaid’s purse is normally found empty as the young fish will have hatched out by the time it has washed ashore. COMMON CUTTLEFISH (skeleton) Cudal (Cnámh) Sepia officinalis Belonging to the same family as the Octopus and Squid, the Cuttlefish lives usually in bays and estuaries. When alive, the bone inside its body has many tiny holes which fill with gas halping it to float. You may find such a Cuttlefish bone on the shore as it floats about in the water for a long tiem after the uttlefish dies. If you have a pet budgie, you may give it such a bone to help it keep its beak trim! STARFISH AND SEA URCHINS Starfish and sea urchins are part of a group of animals known as echinoderms –the spiny-skinned animals. They all carry spiny skins as their name suggests however in some, the spines are soft and not so obvious. Apart from their spines, echinoderms share another feature –they have bodies divided into equal sections arranged around a central point. The starfish is a case in point. THE SEA URCHIN If you examine it closely you will find that it too is divided into segments, not unlike an orange. Starfish have five arms, which may be rough and spiny or quite smooth to touch. Many small tube-feet with suckers line the underside of their bodies. These are used for moving about and feeding. Some of these suckers are strong enough to prise open shellfish. Once open, a starfish can stick its stomach out of its mouth and into a shellfish. Using digestive juices it then proceeds to soften the animal that is to be dinner, and absorbs it.

SEA POTATO ALSO KNOWN AS A HEART URCHIN Croídín Buí Echinocardium Cordatum If you are lucky enough to chance upon a Sea Potato, be careful to handle with care – their shells tend to be extremely fragile and brittle – much to the dismay of small children! This sea creature gets its name from the potato-like appearance of its empty white shell. The Sea Potato usually lives where it can burrow into clean sand in deeper waters. Covered with a thick layer of yellow-brown spines, the Sea Potato can grow up to 9cm but is usually smaller. When alive it uses rows of tube-feet to collect particles from within its burrow. SANDHOPPER Dreancaid trá Talitrus saltator You are bound to encounter many sandhoppers if you decide to venture onto one of Ireland’s beaches. By day they care to be found under the debris or seaweed of the high tide mark. These little creatures come out at night from their hiding places to feast on seaweed. There are numerous different kinds of sandhopper. By flexing its tail this small creature can hop quite long distances. EDIBLE CRAB Portán dearg Cancer pagurus The red-brown crab with its “pie-crust” edging is easy to recognise, its small green eyes, black tips on its large pincers. Claws used for defence and feeding tend to be bigger in the male crab than on the female. To hide, the edible crab may tuck its legs under its body and partly bury itself among stones making itself difficult to see. You may find big specimens in the deeper waters but on the shore smaller edible crabs may be found.

COMMON OR CURVED RAZON SHELL Scian Mhara Chuar Ensis ensis This shellfish has a long, thick and slightly curved and rectangular shaped shell. You may be lucky enough to encounter one empty on the shore. The two halves of this shell or valves are held together by a strong ligament along one side. When the shell is closed, the ends remain open, creating a tube-like effect. A filter feeder, this bivalve must remain close to the surface of the water as its siphon is very short. If it feels threatened it can pull itself deep into the sand by extending a strong, muscular foot to pull its shell downwards.

continued

251

252

Photo Credit : Mike Kenneally

continued

COMMON OR EDIBLE COCKLE Ruacan Cerastoderma edule (Cardium edule) The Common Cockle is a bivalve that lives buried in sand or mud by the shore. Often its empty shell is all that you may see on the surface. The shell is thick and greyish white in colour having broad rounded ribs running from the top to the edge of the shell. You can tell the animals’ age by looking at the growth rings running across these ribs. Each year a heavy ring is added. The cockle lives 2-3 cm below the surface of the water anchored by its foot. It pushes its two tube-like siphons up to the surface of the sand to feed and breath when the tide is in. Excerpts from A Beginners Guide to Ireland’s Seashore. COMMON OR BLUE MUSSEL Diúilicín Mytilus edulis This mollusc prefers to attach to a hard structure, rocks or a shipwreck. Its slightly oval shaped shell may be blue, black or brown in colour. Inside it is pearly white with a darker boarder. You will find mussels living together in huge colonies on rocky shores. They will choose areas where there is plenty of water in movement, such as a tidal zone. Water carries tiny animals and plants that the mussel filters out as food using its gills. Using its strong hair-like byssus threads the mussel attaches itself to rocks, stones or other mussels. EDIBLE PERIWINKLE Gioradán Littorina littorea This is one of the most common and familiar sea snails on the Irish seashore and is the largest of the winkle family. Edible Periwinkles bear a thick coiled shell dark grey brown in colour and often with darker lines. This colouring is a camouflage helping the Periwinkle to blend in with the seaweeds under which it lives. Out of water the Edible Periwinkle closes its shell with a horny disc called the operculum sealing the creature inside. This type of Periwinkle can be found on all types of shore of the Irish coast. COMMON LIMPET Bairneach coiteann Patella Vulgata The common limpet is a common sight on rocky Irish shores, easily

recognised by its cone shaped shell. One strong sucker foot allows it to cling onto the rock surface. The watertight grip allows the limpet to keep water within its’ shell also protecting it from predators and strong waves. Look closer and you will see how each Limpet has its own “home base” on a rock. This is an oval scar which is the exact shape of the shell. The limpet likes to wander when covered by water grazing lazily on tiny seaweeds and encrusting animals. It then returns to the scar once the tide goes out once again. LUGWORM Lugach Arenicola marina Walk upon a beach and you may notice some spaghetti like casts in the sand. These, more than likely are a type of bristly worm, the Lugworm. This sea worm spends its life inside its U-shaped burrow feeding on the sand and extracting any nourishment it can. A pit is formed above its head as it eats while the undigested sand is removed and this forms the cast. The body, as in all bristle worms, is segmented and looks similar to an earthworm. COMPASS JELLYFISH Smugairle an chompáis Chrysaora hysoscella Bluish white in colour and bearing brown V-shaped markings on the top of its bell-shaped body and a ‘frill’ of brown markings around the edge – the Compass Jellyfish is quite a pretty sight. The anatomy of this Jellyfish is made up of 24 tentacles arranged in groups as well as four very long and “frilly” mouth arms and eight sense organs. You may find Adult Compass Jelly fish in Ireland’s coastal waters from July to September often to a size of 30cm in diameter. Also, they may be seen washed up on a beach. The Compass Jellyfish feeds on worms and small jellyfish. A free floating animal, the Common Jellyfish feeds on a wide range of plankton and small fish. It has a body shaped like a saucer and can grow up to 25 cm in diameter with four mouth arms purple in colour hanging below it. It has four purple horseshoe shaped rings on the top of its body which are its reproductive organs. This Jellyfish is most commonly seen as a blob of transparent jelly washed up on the shore. It may be found in large numbers in the summer around coastal waters.

Excerpts from A Beginners Guide to Ireland’s Seashore.

253

254 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

On the world stage, “Riverdance” was another well known international phenomenon that presented Ireland’s rich musical heritage, cultural roots and feisty character to the world. Today the supergroup known as the Gloaming are continuing an evolution of Irish traditional music. Combining the traditional with the

innovative, as the genius of jazz pianist Thomas Bartlett joins the unique voice of sean nós singer Iarla Ó Lionaird, together with fiddlers Martin Hayes and Caoimhín Ó Raghallaigh – continue to surf the surging tide of tradition.

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 255

TRADITIONAL MUSIC

A STORY OF IRELAND'S TRADITIONAL

MUSIC

Through the Celtic Revival, Ireland’s rich tradition of folklore and mythology came to national attention at the turn of the last century. An awakening had begun. Still, it was not until sixty years later that the full emotional force of Ireland’s passion, as it is carried within music and song truly found welcome within the heart of Irish cultural identity. This is a journey of Ireland’s true voice and it continues even today: from obscurity to acclaim, out of the shadows and onto centre stage. The native music of many a once-colonised country may rest in obscurity, displaced by the obedient rhythms of a dominant culture. Were it not for the composer, writer and musician- pioneer, Seán ‘O Riada, born one “John Reedy”, Irish Traditional music may not occupy the pivotal role it carries today. Just as memory ceases to become collective memory as stories stop being passed down through generations, the practice of playing traditional music had come to be frowned upon in polite Irish society: disregarded as part of what was then considered a backward and downtrodden culture. Tradition in all forms was once associated with the poor of the wild atlantic seaboard. Until a revival took form in the mid-20th century.

the well-connected composer, author and a lecturer at University College Cork, deliberately set about reclaiming a voice for Ireland, while planting another seed of cultural resurgence.

Seán ‘O Riada, a classically trained musician, took an unprecedented u-turn in his own personal life. Ó Riada was not content to simply continue in the vein of imitation – seeking approval from the established culture or limiting his own self-expression to the accepted vocabularies of the centrally progressive. As ”John Reedy”, a successful composer, broadcaster and university lecturer, he moved his family from urban Cork to the rural Gaeltacht region of Baile Mhuirne a wellspring of tradition where the Irish language continued to be eloquently spoken. This is a place of deep spirituality, song and learning. He changed his name to “Seán Ó Riada”. He started to speak the Irish language and to seek inspiration in the deeply rooted culture of that Gaeltacht community. At this time

Through taking a cultural stand, Ó Riada formed new ground for a revival of Ireland’s consciousness. He opened a way for countless Irish people who have followed his example, authentically turning towards their roots – integrating what once was cast aside; a voice of song at Ireland’s heart. It was an opening that brings the Irish story into international relevance: how many other cultures, other songs, have been forgotten in the march of progress and amnesia ?

256 256 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

Whether a seasoned expert, novice, or just open to trying something different â&#x20AC;&#x201C; fishing in Ireland might just be one of the highlights of your trip!

THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY 257

FISHING IN IRELAND

FISHING IN IRELAND Special feature

Ireland’s clear Atlantic waters, miles of coastline, over 14,000 km of rivers and thousands of lakes mean that this country is beloved of anglers the world over. Ireland’s waters are uncrowded and amongst the cleanest in Europe both inland or by the coast. The vast variety and quality of fishing experiences on offer here has secured a reputation of which Ireland is justly proud. As an island of approximately 500 km in length by 300 km wide there is a very high ratio of water to land (1:35). Here, the warm waters of the North Atlantic Drift animate the south and west coasts, bringing a milder climate than our geographical location would indicate. The result is a wonderful mixture of both cold and warm water fish species. In fresh waters of Ireland’s lakes and rivers you can find species of trout, salmon and pike. Warmer water species of tench and roach are also to be found here. Marine species range from the cold water cod and coalfish to Mediterranean-loving bass and the mid-Atlantic blue shark. Lakes, rivers and coastal areas are mapped, surveyed and maintained throughout the land. Fisheries are managed and stocked. River banks and inland water routes have been developed to ensure prime access for the enthusiastic angler. Salmon and trout fisheries tend to be the property of one individual, club, organisation or the Irish state and permission is usually required to fish except in the case of state owned lakes. Such lakes include the Lakes of Killarney or the Great

Western Loughs. For free fishing information and advice as well as regular angling updates, you can visit the Central Fisheries Board website on www.cfb.ie or email your angling query to info@cfb.ie or phone +353 1 8842600. Some initiatives supporting Ireland’s water sustainability and fishing stocks include: The Sustainable Water Network, SWAN, a network of Ireland’s leading environmental organisations working to ensure that new Water Framework Directives and water management plans provide protection for our natural marine resources. See www.swanireland.ie for details. Streamscapes & Coomhola Salmon Trust. In 1989 Coomhola Salmon Trust was founded by Paul Kearney and Mark Boyden, based at a small research facility on a tributary of the Coomhola River. Between producing native salmon stocking projects for Irish southwest rivers, helping with the efforts to reintroduce salmon to the great River Rhine, and hosting successful freshwater pearl mussel captive breeding research, the StreamScapes Aquatic & Biodiversity Education Project was conceived to assist with wilder efforts to conserve our waters and our wilds. See www.streamscapes.ie for more details.

INVOCATION TO IRELAND I invoke the land of Ireland Much-coursed be the fertile sea, Fertile be the fruit strewn mountain, Fruit-strewn be the showery wood, Showery be the river of water-falls, Of water-falls be the lake of deep pools, Deep-pooled be the hill-top well, A well of tribes be the assembly, An assembly of kings be Tara, Tara be the hill of the tribes, The tribes of the sons of Mil, Of Mil of the ships, the barks. Let the loft bark be Ireland, Lofty Ireland, darkly sung, An incantation of great cunning; The great cunning of the wives of Bres, The wives of Bres of Buaigne; The great lady Ireland, Eremon hath conquered her, Ir, Eber have invoked for her, I invoke the land of Ireland.

Amergin 258

Photo Credit : Mike Kenneally

259

260 THE WILD ATLANTIC WAY

ANCIENT LANGUAGE FORBIDDEN TONGUE “Tír gan teanga, tír gan anam” There is a certain little trodden path that must be taken if one wishes to look squarely at the issues of language loss, and cultural change. To reclaim something, anything, that has been lost, involves first a time of mourning – as we come to recognise what is missing. Then begins the task of gathering, returning and relearning. Choosing what we take with us as we go forward. But “Irishness” is not something that exists as a mere image or sound-byte, everybody wants to be Irish on St. Patrick’s Day. Why do the Irish drink so much ? The day may come when we forego the image of a pint of Guinness as a measure of Irishness. We are also a country that has suffered generations of alcoholism. One may observe that with such a history as ours, it is common for one to wish to forget the past – but if, by a seeming cultural duty of

inebriation one fails to envision a better future, it is clear a country is losing its way. To see clearly and to act effectively, requires sobriety and a willingness to break from the habits of one’s peers. Too long has Ireland trodden a path of imitation, unwilling or unable to foist the bonds of self-determination on her own terms. By butchery, by necessity and by default; the language of Ireland became the English language. But was has been lost? To be Irish then is more than surface qualities. Less than two hundred years ago, to have one’s surname in Irish displayed in public on one’s cart for example was an offense for which one could be fined or even imprisoned. Today, many are turning to the Irish versions of their names, and starting to learn again, and speak in Ireland’s own forbidden tongue.

ANCIENT LANGUAGE

“We have always found the Irish a bit odd. They refuse to be English.” - Winston Churchill”

261

Through the tireless work of committed organisation such as tourism Ireland, Fáilte Ireland, and Discover Ireland, in partnership with countless local businesses, and tourism initiatives, Ireland’s unique western coastal route has been gaining renown worldwide. These once difficult-to-reach coastal communities can now be accessed with ease : but this brings a new responsibility. Just as the ‘leave no trace’ ethos is in nature, we can appreciate that culture of Ireland is rich as it is diverse because of our respect and care. What is ours to share is more than money can buy; let us care for this precious lands for future generations to enjoy. “May the road rise to meet you, The wind be always at your back, May the sun shine warmly on your face, And the rain fall lightly on your fields, Until we meet again, May God hold you in the Palm of his hand” Celtic Irish Blessing

Photo Credit : Mike Kenneally

Guerin Media

s n o i t u l o S t n i r P e v i t a e r C

As a cutting edge publishing and design company we specialise in creating engaging branded media to suit your companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s needs on every consumer platform both offline and online.

Guerin Media is a Kildare based design and publishing agency providing creative solutions for your print, publishing, branding, web and advertising needs, working hard and smart since 1999. We can turn your brand into a powerful asset, increase sales and raise your company profile. We change your business by design!