3 minute read
A Somewhat Biased Review
The closing of The First Alleyway almost two years ago represented nothing less than a tectonic shift in the Gwangju community. For it was more than just a place to grab pizza and drinks: It was a gathering place and a de facto community center for Gwangju expats. And that is why when The Alleyway opened its doors last April, the city was abuzz with excitement. While there is not much else to say about the legacy of The First Alleyway (it has been covered in numerous articles in both the Gwangju News and other news outlets such as The Korea Times), there is actually quite a bit to muse over when discussing this new restaurant.
Perhaps the most important thing to understand is that The Alleyway in Dongmyeong-dong is not a “reopening” of The First Alleyway, but rather a new iteration, with a different menu and fresh management. Instead of thinking of it as a sequel, a “First Alleyway 2.0” if you will, it is more like a spin off with a different cast of characters and different vibe. Kind of like how Joey had a spinoff from Friends, only not God awful.
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The Elephant In The Room
While The First Alleyway’s long-term downtown location was big enough to accommodate at least two medium-sized elephants, even a baby elephant would have difficulty making itself comfortable at the new Alleyway. At the time of writing, The Alleyway has five tables and five bar stools, giving it a total of 27 seats. On weeknights, this means that it is usually not a problem to get a place, but on the last couple of Saturday nights, there has been a waiting list to get a meal.
From a business perspective, I think this makes a lot of sense. It seems clear to me that it is better to have a smaller establishment that is always busy (or full) than a bigger one that is not. That being said, after talking to a number of friends (who were, shall we say, very, very acquainted with the downtown location) they expressed that the atmosphere at times seemed a little more “rushed” than they were used to. For example, instead of being able to grab some food, have a couple of cheap beers, then sit around and chill or play board games for a while, they felt there is now a bit of pressure to eat then make room for the next people who want the table.
Das Menu
From wings and poutine to sandwiches and pizza, the menu at The Alleyway is solid. From personal experience, I would say that the various pizzas are somehow even better than at the old place. The sandwich offerings are very decent, and the pastrami Reuben was my personal favorite.
The smaller kitchen means that there was no way the Alleyway was going to be able to have all the classics, so it was inevitable that some compromises and adjustments would have to be made. They have done a great job of keeping the core items on the menu, but fan favorites such as fish and chips as well as burgers did not make the cut.
As well, when it comes to the speed of service and overall quality, I would say that The Alleyway completely nailed it.
Ambiance And Location
The management made some really smart decisions about layout and decor. The space feels open, and all the tables and chairs are top notch (especially the bar stools, which are extra comfy). As well, there is a picnic table and some lawn chairs outside, which will be in high demand in the summer months.
A subtle shift I have noticed at The Alleyway is that there is much more of a focus on providing a solid dining experience and much less of a focus on drinking. Of course, there is still a large selection of beers and drinks, but it does not strike me as the kind of place where people would go just to hang out and bend some elbows.
The Alleyway
• Address: Gwangju, Dong-gu, Dongmyeongdong, 200-21, first floor (beside the stairs) / 광주 동구 동명동 200-21, 1층 (계단 옆)
• Hours: Open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. / 오전11시부터 오후10시까지 영업
Closed on Sundays and Mondays / 일요일 월요일 휴무
• Last order at 9 p.m./ 9시에 마지막 주문
• Phone: (070) 4006-0612
Finally, I think the new location in Dongmyeongdong is actually much superior to the old place for a number of reasons. First, Dongmyeong-dong is undergoing a revitalization and has become a trendy place for the younger generation to hang out. That means it is a lively area that is just kind of a fun place to walk around and explore. Second, when compared to the downtown core, Dongmyeongdong is a mixed zoning area, meaning it is much more laid back with different kinds of buildings and not just store after coffee shop after restaurant. The last and most important reason that the location is better is because it is a mere five-minute walk from my house!
The Verdict
Instead of comparing The Alleyway to the old restaurant that was an intrinsic part of the Gwangju identity, patrons should just accept it for what it is: an amazing restaurant that pays tribute to the legacy of The First Alleyway while also doing things its own way.
The Author
William Urbanski is the managing editor of the Gwangju News. He has strong opinions about pizza.