Expat Living: From China to Korea

From China to Korea

By Ellie Goodwin

TTeaching is a popular career choice for the expat community, and given the perks that come with the job, it is easy to understand why: a healthy salary with decent saving opportunities, a comfortable work-social life balance with some of the living costs covered. And let’s not forget the students who (for all our exasperated sighs and hair pulling) tug at our heartstrings with their quirky ways and infectious laughs.

These perks alongside the travel opportunities are the reasons why I chose to take my teaching career to Asia. Before moving to Gwangju, I was a teacher in China. Naively, I figured that given the two countries were not that far apart geographically speaking, then there would be many similarities between the neighbours. I could not have been more wrong. In this article, I have written about some of the differences and similarities about my time in each country.

DOMESTIC TRAVEL

First of all, I loved living in China (and currently love living in Korea) but for entirely different reasons. There’s the Great Wall of China, the Terrocotta Army, the Yellow Mountains and Avatar Mountains in Huangshan and Zhangjiajie, respectively, the West Lake in Hangzhou, Yu Garden in Shanghai, and the Gobi Desert in Xinjiang. It goes without saying that China has a lot to offer. The downside? Getting to these places. China is the third largest country in the world. Travel in China was not as convenient as a three-hour bus ride from U-Square or a train ride from Gwangju’s Songjeong Station. I would often have to give far more thought to travel time, weighing up the everlasting debate of ‘shall I spend more money on a flight which will get me to point B quicker or save money and take the train, which will add another four hours to my journey?’ For me, the considerably smaller size of Korea is an inexpressible plus. Though a fraction of China’s size, it has just as much to offer, perhaps more, and with the added bonus of a shorter travel time. For me, Korea wins the first round for domestic travel opportunities.

AFFORDABILITY

One of the biggest selling points for those considering work in China (be it teaching or another line of work) are the saving opportunities. I arrived in China with a malnourished bank account and left with a nice, chubby figure. I was able to save money without compromising my lifestyle. I could afford to go to restaurants and bars, take day trips, and travel abroad (imagine a world before COVID-19 and PCR tests) while saving money all the while. That is not to say that I do not think it possible for me to save some pennies in Korea, especially considering all the living expenses that are covered, but I do not expect to save

▲ The iconic Bund skyline.

▲ Suzhou, famed for its canals and referred to as “the Venice of China.”

as much given that the cost of living here is higher. Depending on how large my appetite was on a given day, a meal out at my favourite restaurant would average between 6,000 and 10,000 won. The cost of my weekly shopping would be around 30,000 won. Cocktails at my favorite bar would be between 5,500 and 10,000 won. An IMAX 3D cinema ticket would cost 11,000 won. So, China wins this round.

QUALITY OF LIFE

There is a perk to living in a costlier country, namely an improved quality of life. China was a cheaper country to live in, with lower taxes to pay and cheaper rent, and that showed. You paid for what you got. I should add here that I did not live in either Beijing or Shanghai. However, I did live in a first-tier city which, by definition, is a city with a high income level, infrastructure, consumerism, and career opportunities. And still, the quality of life did not compare to Korea. Piles of trash, spitting, derelict buildings, and kids wearing split pants (I will let you Google that one) were common sights for me during my time living in China. True, I have seen the odd pile of trash on the street in Gwangju, but these are few and far between, and the pile is far less mountainous. The buses and trains here are spacious, and the public toilets are clean. On that note, I can categorically say that I have not missed the squat toilets. (One word: mess. I will leave the rest up to your imagination).

Along with a higher quality of life, I am also enjoying some liberties that I did not have in China. Google, Instagram, WhatsApp, Western news outlets, and Facebook are all examples of platforms blocked in China. The only way to access these platforms was by using a VPN, which was often temperamental, not to mention illegal. On top of that were certain conversations which were not to be had aloud, let alone via WeChat – the Chinese equivalent of KakaoTalk. Talk of Hong Kong, the 1989 Tiananmen Square Massacre, as well as conversations about politics, religion, sexuality, and so forth were not discussed. Even now, I forget that I can freely talk about Tiananmen Square and not have to drop my voice to a whisper and was surprised to hear conversations about the 5.18 uprising being freely spoken about. So, the winner of the ‘quality of life’ round is Korea, without question.

▲ A lone walk on the Great Wall in Beijing.

CULTURE SHOCK

Experiencing culture shock comes with any relocation, be it a country of a shared continent or one on the other side of the globe. For me, the culture shock that came with moving to China was far more pronounced than moving to Korea. Written English is not used as much, and when it was, it was often mistranslated. I would breathe a sigh of relief whenever I went to a restaurant with an English translation or saw a bus station offering timetables in English. Of course, there is no obligation for a country whose first language is not English to cater to those who do not speak the language fluently or who cannot decipher those confusing characters, but it certainly makes for an easier transition when a country has English translations widely provided. For me, settling into my life in Korea has been far easier than China. But like I mentioned, I did not live in either Beijing or Shanghai. Perhaps if I had lived in either of these cities, then the culture shock would not have been such a slap in the face.

TEACHING

I spent three and a half years teaching in China and am currently into my third month teaching in Korea, so I may not be the fairest judge between these two countries, as my experience in China far outstrips that of Korea. There are the obvious similarities: the students that find a special place in your heart and nestle there, whose cute picture you will have saved on your phone and who (years down the line) will make you wonder what kind of person they have grown into, or if they remember you as fondly as you remember them.

And now to the more practical similarities. It just so happens that I taught at a private institution in China (commonly known as a training center) and currently teach at a hagwon in Korea. The pay and packages are similar: My accommodation has been paid for as have some of my utility bills and start-up costs. The holiday allowance is similar: a break for summer and winter with national holidays scattered in between, though not as generous in number compared with a teaching job at a public school. The only striking difference I have personally experienced is the role of the teacher. In China, I often felt like I was more of a performer or entertainer rather than a teacher. For the school where I worked, the color of my skin and my British citizenship was a commodity, whereas my experience and qualifications took a backseat. I do not feel like this is the case here. I will be the first to say that my experience may not be an accurate representation of all schools in China, and that I am not a well-seasoned English teacher in Korea, so this final point should be taken with a pinch of salt (and then some).

It was difficult at times, but I loved the years I spent in China, and though I have only spent a few months in Gwangju, intuition is telling me that I am in for another good few years. At present, I can say only positive things about the little life I have set up for myself here. Korea is a beautiful and diverse country, easy to travel around, and has friendly locals welcoming me and other expats into their culture. Opportunities are ripe for the taking, and I am sure I am not alone when I say that I am going to try and take as many as humanly possible.

The Author

English teacher by trade and keen traveler the rest of the time, Ellie Goodwin has been to 35 different countries, lived in China for over three years, and has been living in Gwangju for as many months. In her free time, she enjoys (you guessed it) traveling, hiking, reading, and the occasional soju. Instagram @elliee_goodwin