From Abroad: Solo Trip to Almaty – Kazakhstan’s Largest City

Solo Trip to Almaty

Kazakhstan’s Largest City

By Ellie Goodwin

WHY KAZAKHSTAN?

During my three years living in China, I was fortunate enough to travel to a few countries in Southeast Asia, and though I am far from saying that I have “seen” this part of the world (revisits are definitely needed), I can say that I did want to see a part that was new to me. With that in mind, I turned my attention to Central Asia.

If asked what I had known about Kazakhstan prior to my visit, my answer would have been woefully ignorant and misinformed with one “source” as a point of reference: Borat. (Unsurprisingly, any Borat quotes will earn you an eye roll from the locals). However, a few hours spent researching gave me an insight that was previously a blank space on the map. The five nations of Central Asia – Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Uzbekistan, and Turkmenistan – were once part of the USSR. Their being late to obtain independence has meant that they are arguably still overlooked, though they are hidden gems in their own right. Kazakhstan, like its neighbors, is home to scenery that is nothing short of epic: Mountains capped with snow, glacial lakes, and gorges make it a dream for keen hikers and novices alike. It is a country where the influences of Islam and communism still clash wonderfully with each other, making way for some truly beautiful architecture, the likes of which I have never seen anywhere else.

When planning my trip, I was torn between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Both offered cities with rich histories and distinctive characters as well as the chance to surround myself in nature. Additionally, the cost of flights and accommodation worked out roughly the same. Despite writing dozens of pros and cons list, I was still undecided, leading me to the last resort: tossing a coin. Tails. Kazakhstan. A few minutes later, I had a flight booked to Almaty.

ALMATY, KAZAKHSTAN

Almaty has been described as one of Kazakhstan’s main transport hubs, though there are an array of reasons that make it a city worth visiting. It is a city with mountains for a backdrop, high-end shopping malls (where I was suitably out of place with my oversized backpack and hiking boots), with stylish bars, restaurants, and apartments with a price range that will forever be out of my reach. Hiking and skiing are popular activities given that the Trans-Ili Alatau range is a stone’s throw away.

PLACES TO VISIT

I had three full days in Almaty – not nearly as long as I would have liked, but still enough time to cram in as much as possible with the promise to return again and see more of Kazakhstan, as well as the rest of Central Asia. What I saw, I loved, and below are my recommendations for what is undoubtedly a long and extensive list of places to see in Almaty, though not including the rest of Kazakhstan.

BIG ALMATY LAKE

Big Almaty Lake is a natural alpine reservoir in the Trans-Ili Alatau range close to the Kyrgyzstan border. I can think of a few occasions where the overhyped beauty of a place falls short of expectations, but this was certainly not the case with Big Almaty Lake. The whole landscape is enough to leave you stunned into silence for a few seconds. It reminded me of one of those auto-generated Windows desktop backgrounds: too perfect to be a place that actually exists on the planet, despite the location provided

▲ View from Big Almaty Lake.

in the corner of the screen insisting that it does. The lake’s distinctive turquoise-blue color turns a different shade every season, which make it an allyear-round destination, and being 15 km from the Almaty city center makes it a convenient one, too. Like I said, the lake is close to the border, which means you need to bring your passport, as patrol guards will ask to see it.

At the time of this writing, the only road leading to the lake was closed for planned renovations which are not due to be completed for another three years. This left me with three options for getting there: 1) taking the number 28 bus from the Park of the First President to the final stop and walking uphill for the remaining 8 km, 2) hitchhiking which, to my surprise, is a very common and safe practice in Kazakhstan, and 3) paying for an organized tour to do all of the legwork for me. Given the limited time I had, I went for option number three. For 45 USD, I had transportation provided for me, as well as lunch and national park tickets. We also had a local guide who took us on the best trails while giving a surmised history lesson of Kazakhstan, taking the time to answer our bombardment of questions along the way.

GREEN BAZAAR

This is a wonderful place to visit on an empty stomach with free samples all around and food to be purchased at a very cheap price. The Bazaar has two floors packed with stalls. Some were piled with nuts or fresh and dried fruits, while others sold smoked meat and fish. Ready-made food can be bought, too, including Korean cuisine. (I thought I had temporarily seen the last of kimchi but apparently not!)

CENTRAL MOSQUE

Baiken Mosque is one of the largest in the country and, according to the free and helpful tourist information guides I picked up, has a space for 3,000 worshippers. It is unmissable from a distance, with its golden dome topping white marble, and can be visited outside of prayer hours. You will need to dress appropriately if you want to see the interior, which means covering arms and legs (heads for women, too).

ZENKOV’S CATHEDRAL

Located in Almaty’s most popular park, Park of 28 Panfilov Guardsmen, is Zenkov’s Cathedral. It is one of Almaty’s few remaining tsarist-era buildings and built entirely of wood, including the nails. The park was named Panfilov in honor of the 28 soldiers of an Almaty infantry unit who died fighting the Nazis in a village outside of Moscow in 1941. There is also a striking, almost haunting, war memorial in the park to commemorate this loss alongside an eternal flame to honor the fallen soldiers of the Russian Civil War (1917–1922) and the Second World War.

FIRST PRESIDENT’S PARK

Named after the First President of Kazakhstan, Nursultan Nazarbayev, it is a lovely place to take a relaxing stroll. I spent a few hours there walking in the shade from the trees – much appreciated given the thirty-degree temperature. The park is a beautiful spot to visit with some impressive architecture and lawns to stretch out on.

WHEN TO VISIT

September and October are considered the best months to visit Kazakhstan (not to mention the other “stans”). The worst of the summer heat is over, accommodation prices drop, and the autumnal colors make for beautiful scenery when hiking in the mountains.

PEOPLE

Kazakhstan is a diverse, multi-ethnic country. In the short time I was there, I met locals with various roots: Russian, Ukrainian, German, and Polish, to name a few. Hospitality is an important value and it shows. My Kazakh hosts would invite me to eat dinner with them every evening (explaining that I did not eat meat was always an interesting conversation which attracted much confusion and pity) and often asked if my room was comfortable. Like all countries, Kazakhstan has its problems (petty crime, bribery, and so forth), but this was a side that I did not see during my visit. I was traveling solo and felt safe the entire time.

VISAS I am fortunate to have a British passport, which means that visas are rarely something I need to worry about. At the time of visiting, British citizens were eligible for a single-entry tourist visa for up to 30 days. No paperwork, no documents – just a passport with at least two blank pages and threemonths’ validity remaining. The same can be said for citizens from EU countries, Canada, the USA, Australia, and the UAE (the latter have 90 days rather than 30). This may have changed since the time of this writing, so it goes without saying that a quick peruse on the Kazakhstan government website is an imperative before traveling.

MONEY

Finding somewhere to exchange my Korean won to Kazakhstan tenge was my own equivalent of Mission Impossible, albeit with a far more mundane plotline. My local exchange stores only dealt with US dollars, British pounds, Chinese yen, and the Euro. Though countless quick internet searches promised that exchange stores at Incheon Airport had hundreds of currencies available, this did not

extend to the Kazakhstan tenge. When I arrived at the airport, I found out to my cost (pun intended) that none of the numerous exchange stores sold the currency that I needed. My only option was to exchange my Korean won when I landed at Almaty Airport. The interest rates were high (as expected), but I was not in a position to decline and so was forced to swallow that bitter pill. Unsurprisingly, my advice would be to bring some form of debit card that can be used abroad without sneakily charging a fee with each purchase. Monzo is one such card that has been recommended to me.

"It is a country where the influences of Islam and communism still clash wonderfully with each other, making way for some truly beautiful architecture, the likes of which I have never seen anywhere else."

TAXIS

The Uber app is no longer available in Kazakhstan. The reigning taxi app used by locals and tourists is Yandex Go. This app is a must. Hailing a taxi or taking one from Almaty Airport can be three times more expensive. Unfortunately for me, I was unable to download Yandex Go, and I was not the only one. Lots of tourists were greeted with the message “App not available in your region” whenever a download was attempted. In these situations, I asked the locals to order taxis for me and thought the language barrier made way for lots of wild looking hand gestures on my part, yet I still managed to get one in the end. If you are planning on spending a long time in Kazakhstan, then it would be worth investing in a SIM card so you can download the Yandex Go app.

LANGUAGE

On the subject of language barriers, be prepared for one if you cannot speak either Kazakh or Russian.

▲ The entrance to First President’s Park.

English is not widely spoken here. During my time in Almaty, the only locals I met who could speak English were around the twenty-year-old mark. Those who could speak English were eager to strike up a conversation to practice.

SUMMARY

My time in Almaty was a small snippet of what Kazakhstan and the rest of Central Asia has to offer: a clash of cultures, the remnants of fallen regimes, and an awe-filling landscape to top it all. That it is still an overlooked part of the world makes now the ideal time to visit, before the swarms of tourists descend and the character of the place is dimmed. I know that I will definitely be making a return trip to Central Asia in the near future.

Photographs by Ellie Goodwin.

The Author

English teacher by trade and keen traveler the rest of the time, Ellie Goodwin has been to 36 different countries, lived in China for over three years, and has lived in Gwangju for eight months. In her free time, she enjoys (you guessed it) traveling, hiking, reading, and the occasional soju. Instagram: @elliee_goodwin