HADES MAGAZINE - ISSUE 2 - WANDERLUST by Laura McKinnon

HADES wanderlust

issue 2

WANDERLUST A strong desire to travel

PREPARE FOR TAKE-OFF A Word From The Editor...

aving never left Europe in my 20 years on this planet, I am one of the many people enthralled by the idea of Wanderlust. For the last few years I have been impulsively longing to just pack my bags and go. My involvement in the worldly industry of fashion has only furthered this desire and through working on this issue of HADES myself and the team have, metaphorically, travelled the world without actually leaving the UK. From directing a photographic editorial on a farm with a horse named Gucci to attempting an American Vintage photo-shoot in Scotlandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s torrential rain, the HADES team have bared all to bring you an exciting second issue of the magazine. Since the launch of issue one the original HADES family consisting of myself, Creative Director and photographer Laura McKinnon; Graphic Editor and photographer Siobhan Stewart; Editorial Journalist Stephanie Boyle and Make-Up Artist extraordinaire Nikki McMillan, has grown. For this issue we have proudly welcomed make-up artist Rachel- Louise Newton, freelance stylist Megan Flockhart and filmer Chris Gibson onto the creative team.

Over the last couple of months, we have teased you all with snippets of this issues content in Chris Gibsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wonderful fashion films and now, it is finally here! On our cover we present the futuristic Cypriot bags and accessories label, Talu. Straight out of university and onto the catwalk we search for the next bright young stars of the fashion industry at Graduate Fashion Week. Editorial journalist, Stephanie Boyle explores the world of international fashion photography from past to present. We treat you to an exclusive interview with world famous make up label, Lime Crime and explore the international fashion industry with features on trends and designers from Paris, Dubai, The US, Sweden and Japan. Finally, I would like to thank everyone on the team for all their hard work and persistence this issue and all of our readers for the support you have given the magazine over the past few months, it really has been invaluable. So now sit back, relax and prepare for take-off! Happy travels, Corrine McConnachie

contents 01 10 24 36 38 48 60 68 70 81 92

talu creations karen hale lime crime riptinka accessories bint thani western trend graduate fashion week the world’s lens jennie lö ö f malam paris parma vintage

on the cover: Photography: Laura McKinnon Model:Kirstin Gribbin @ Colours Styling: Corrine McConnachie

WELCOME TO...

CYPRUS

HADES

TALU CREATIONS Photography: Laura McKinnon Model:Kirstin Gribbin @ Colours Styling: Corrine McConnachie Words: Corrine McConnachie

The first time you come eye to eye with a Talu very fresh, I wanted to create a brand that breaks bag is an experience not to be forgotten. At the

away from the mainstream, yet compliments

Margin trade show, surrounded by an array of current trends. Fashion is usually ‘played safe’ designs, I was immediately drawn to the Talu Creations bags and accessories range designed by Chris Christo. The captivating, glass fused

‘I wanted to create a brand that breaks away from the mainstream, yet compliments current trends.’

Talu eye stamp immediately reminded me of

to some extent for mass mainstream interest and greater financial gain. I believe that to have full artistic vision, one must

not think about short term financial rewards

the Big Brother emblem and before I knew it, but, instead, explore all parameters of design.” I was making a beeline straight for the new,

Speaking professionally with passion and

exciting and futuristic designs. Many ancient

confidence it is clear that Chris is no stranger

philosophies consider the symbol of the eye to to the fashion industry. After working under be a channel to a new dimension and, as Talu

the likes of the popular 1980s British fashion

creations journeys towards success, Chris designer, Juliette Spatchette and styling celebrity Christo takes accessorising to a new level with

personalities Chris was ready to “take the bull

his fashion forward, handmade creations.

by the horns” with Talu, “My first taste of the

Founded in November 2011 under the

fashion industry was working in the renowned

slogan of ‘Handmade Individual Design’, the

fashion department store ‘Hyper Hyper’ in High

Cypriot label has already taken the European

Street Kensington, London. With the re launch

fashion industry by storm. In less than a year

of the store, renamed’ HypeDf’ I was appointed

Chris has stocked Talu in Cyprus, Athens and

Assistant store manager and junior buyer by

Mykonos, showcased Talu at Athens Xclusive

the famous Ms Loren Gordon. I owe a lot to

Designer’s Week and Margin Trade Show in Loren for believing in my talent and giving me London, launched the brand’s first official the opportunity to achieve so much. Alongside womenswear collection for Spring/Summer international buying trips, I was creating and 2012 and branched into menswear. With these

implementing the three floor store’s vast window

achievements under his belt, Chris believes that

schemes and visual merchandising.”

his unique tailor-made bags and jewellery can

break the fashion accessories mould, “Talu is

of the customer at the forefront of the Talu brand,

HADES

With a focus on individuality and the needs

HADES

every part of Chris’s artistic

of time. It is said to ward off

become loved and worn by those

design is cleverly thought out.

evil and keep positive energy

who want to be different. I will

Chris, dynamically, explains

around you. Coming from a be spending most of my time

the function of the metal base,

Greek background, “the eye”

between London and Cyprus,

which allows each bag to stand has always been prominent.’

since we are keen to break into

upright. Even the PVC leather

the UK market in big way. I

fabric was chosen for more

the brand’s progress so far, am excited to announce that

Chris is overjoyed with

than just aesthetic pleasure as especially considering the first Talu will be showcasing at the’ the material is easy to clean, official womenswear collection ‘Everything

begins

with

PURE Trade Show’ in London

was only launched five months this August and will, therefore,

thought process followed by

ago, “The past few months of

be exposed to a worldwide

sketches, samples and then the

my life have been the most

audience .There has been a lot

final tweaking to make sure the

exciting and I feel truly blessed

of positive interest shown in

end product is perfect. I believe

to have received such a level of

Middle and Far East and I hope

in functionality as well as visual recognition for my work.” With

to break into the market there

design. I take extreme care, confidence in Talu’s recent

also.’

effort and time regarding the

achievements Chris launched

When

technical side of the procedure

the first “Talu man” collection

envisioning an eye indicates

of designing.’ Inspired by his for Spring/Summer 2012 in

opening a new chapter as your

Cypriot roots and Greek culture,

May, ‘Three new fantastic “man

vision clears and you focus

the iconic Talu eye stamp was

bags” have been designed and on a new direction. As Chris

created to make each accessory

the “man jewellery” is in the

Christo’s

dream

dreaming,

progresses

instantly identifiable: ‘Talu has pipeline and will be launched

and spreads it seems that the

its own unique and individual in time for high summer.’

direction of Talu is not only

identity. I stick with the original

With every belief in his

significant to lovers of bags and

concept, yet experiment with

brand Chris aims high with

accessories but to the fashion

shape, size, colour and of course hopes for the Talu brand to industry as a whole with a new materials. In many cultures,

go global in the future, ‘My brand rising to rival others

’the eye’ has been a symbol of

aspirations for TALU are for

at the top of their game and

protection since the beginning

the brand to grow steadily and

challenge current convention.

HADES

WELCOME TO...

japan

HADES

KH A A R L E NE Photography: Siobhan Stewart Model: Victoria Middleton @ Model Team Make-Up: Nikki McMillan Styling: Corrine McConnachie Words: Corrine McConnachie

rom Alberta Ferretti to Christopher Kane, Fashion Week designers truly embraced statement

prints this season. In the range of popular prints from the Spring/Summer 2012 catwalks an edgy alternative to the frequent floral and tribal dresses was offered in the use of bold geometric prints. Designers such as Kate Kosek, Rob Nadeau and Henri Jacobs embraced the playful trend, reminiscent of the 1980s. Glasgow School of Art student, Karen Hale, impressed many with her own unique take on the trend using traditional Japanese kimonos at the universityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s annual catwalk show.

HADES

rom Alberta Ferretti to Christopher Kane,

Fashion

Week

designers

truly

With an artistic eye, fashion has been an interest

embraced

of Karen’s from a young age and her love for

statement prints this season. In the range of

print dates all the way back to her childhood

popular prints from the Spring/Summer 2012 wardrobe, ‘At a young age I was drawn to repeats catwalks an edgy alternative to the frequent floral and

tribal

dresses

was offered in the use of bold geometric prints.

and patterns, and printed clothes. A lot of my

Designers

clothes when I was a

‘It's so important to go out and see the world and to collect inspiration from your travels.’

such as Kate Kosek,

child were striped or covered in polka dots and floral patterns. So, the Textile Design

Rob Nadeau and Henri Jacobs embraced the

degree (specialising in Print) was an obvious

playful trend, reminiscent of the 1980s. Glasgow

choice!’

School of Art student, Karen Hale, impressed many with her own unique take on the trend

Karen is thankful for her experience at university

using traditional Japanese kimonos at the

as it has allowed her to dabble in many areas

university’s annual catwalk show.

of fashion design. After graduating the textile student plans to utilise most of the skills she

The third year Textile Design student fused both

has learned, ‘I have done short courses in Knit,

contemporary and experimental style in her

Print, Weave and Embroidery, learning the basic

hypnotising prints with the traditional in her use

and some more advanced techniques in each of

of historic Japanese garments, which created

these specialisms. I would love the opportunity

an image of a liberated Geisha girl. Karen said,

to do more hand and machine-embroidery, and

‘I knew that simple kimono-style shapes would

perhaps even knit. I also really enjoy painting

work well with my print designs as kimonos are

and following contemporary art.’

unfussy and have strong visual impact, despite being relatively straight-forward to make. I

With high hopes for an artistic career, preferably

suppose my designs are quite minimalist, but my

in textile design, Karen hopes to embrace the all-

use of shape and repeated motifs means they are

important global aspect of the fashion industry

eye-catching.’

and gain work experience abroad, ‘It’s so

HADES

important to go out and see the world and to

Karen advised, ‘It’s important to have confidence

collect inspiration from your travels. This year I in your work and to know where your strengths plan to get some industry experience under my

lie. Don’t be afraid of having a signature style

belt. I am also trying to organise and save for that you keep going back to, but try not to get personal study trips to Berlin and Florence to

stuck in a rut. Always carry a camera or sketch-

inspire think my final year concept.’

book, you never know when something inspiring will catch your eye.’

In today’s competitive fashion industry the support of a degree can be highly useful and

Looking at her three fine cut, colourful and

Karen advises those with the determination and

mesmerising kimonos it is clear Karen is

passion for design to grasp the opportunity to

talented. With her bubbly enthusiasm and drive

study. Reflecting back on her experiences so far

HADES magazine has no doubt that Karen Hale will succeed in her future endeavours.

HADES

WELCOME TO...

america

C R I M E M E

Photographer: Laura McKinnon Make-up: Nikki McMillan Styling: Corrine McConnachie with Riptinka Accessories Model: Chloe Campbell @ Superior, Muti Goloba @ Superior Words: Corrine McConnachie

Once upon a time

there was a

nature of Lime Crime, the unicorn was chosen

Russian girl named Doe Deere who dreamed of

to be the brand mascot and to serve as a symbol

becoming a creative pioneer. From a young age

of individuality. Now, Doe Deere herself has

Doe knew that a prosperous future lay ahead

been branded by fans as ‘The Unicorn Queen’,

and that, one day, her story would travel far and an example of the modern woman Lime Crime wide. Though this fairy-tale is not one of princes,

target with their fashion-forward make up.

sleeping potions or fairy god mothers, it does involve fluorescent colours, glitter and a lot of

With high profile, celebrity fans such as Katy

determination.

Perry and Nicki Minaj and features in Elle and Teen Vogue, Lime Crime has become a world-

Lime Crime’s story began in 2008 when Doe wide phenomenon. The Unicorn Queen has finally found an outlet for her creative nature:

widened her appeal to the point of being titled

make up. Teamed with a group of chemists

one of the ‘Top Inspiring Woman Entrepreneurs

in Los Angeles Doe began to create the kind of 2010’ by Self-Made magazine. The fairyof revolutionising make-up she had always

tale of Lime Crime is known by many but what

dreamed of and, thus, the vibrant world of Lime

lays beneath the glitter eye palettes and candy

Crime was born. In fitting with the fanciful

coloured lip sticks? HADES magazine finds out.

HADES

Why did you decide to create

our products whimsical names our products vegan. I believe

your own make up brand?

such as Airborne Unicorn and

that makeup should be fun and

I liked to invent fairy-tales when Countessa Fluorescent. To me, harmless, and animal testing I was a child. As I grew older,

Lime Crime means colouring

is the opposite of that. Beauty

the desire to tell stories never

outside the lines, breaking up

should never come at the

subsided and I spent most of my

the stale beauty standards and

expense of another living being.

twenties looking for the right

doing things your own way!

We are also an independent

medium. I tried music, fashion

Plus, lime green is one of my

brand, which allows us to take

and a few others things before

absolute favourite colours.

more creative risks and do what

finally discovering make-up.

we believe without worrying so

Having my own brand allows

Why did you choose a unicorn much about the bottom-line. I

me to tell my own story, create

as the company mascot?

worlds

wished

A unicorn is a rare, mythical

existed, and, of course, create

creature of exceptional beauty

When you first launched Lime

the kind of makeup I myself

and a kind heart. I associate

Crime did you ever expect it to

want to wear.

unicorns

become so popular?

I've

always

with

think it is the only way to go!

happiness,

mysterious nature and above Not in a million years! I just How did you launch Lime

all individualism. Unlike a

wanted to try something new

Crime?

horse a unicorn is a loner. I've

and something that I was

We launched in 2008 with

always felt different so there

personally excited about, I

a simple line of loose eye-

is a natural affinity there. For never expected such level of

shadows. Then, following my an animal-friendly brand like

enthusiasm. That's the nature

gut, I went into lipsticks- the

Lime Crime a unicorn seemed

of the internet; you never know

product we are currently most

like a wonderful fit.

where you'll find your audience.

known for. What

makes

Lime

Crime What inspires and motivates

Where did the name Lime

different from other make up

you?

Crime come from?

brands on the market?

Personally,

Rhyming is used often in fairy-

Our entire line is cruelty-free,

by colours, sounds, nature,

tales. In that spirit, we give

and we strive to make all of

kindness to animals, Los

inspired

HADES

Angeles, and people with a unique sense of style. Professionally, it's mythology and fairy tales! (Although the two are almost impossible to separate most of the time.)

What inspired the Aquatænia eyeshadow palette? My friend Traci Hines, who is known for being a real-life mermaid and for singing The Little Mermaid’s Part of Your World on Youtube in

How does it feel to have celebrity fans and to be featured in publications such as Elle? We have received support from numerous wellrespected publications and people, and it always feels very humbling. I am still surprised and

character. Meeting Traci made a deep impact on me as a life-long mermaid fanatic. I think the palette is an excellent representation of Lime Crime aesthetic and Traci’s effervescent beauty. What can we expect from Lime Crime in the

flattered whenever somebody wants to wear or future? talk about my brand Recently I was invited on

We are super-excited about all the releases we

Dave Navarro's radio show, Dark Matter; Dave

have planned for 2012. I can't give away too

is a huge anti-fur activist and found out about

much but let's just say it's going to be our most

my brand on the internet. It was cool to meet a magical year yet! person with similar inclinations.

Shop Lime Crime: http://www.limecrimemakeup.com Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/limecrime

HADES

RIPTINKACCESSORIES R

Words: Corrine McConnachie

iptinka accessories is an up and coming UK

Katie’s recent collections have played upon

jewellery brand. Formed in 2009 by Katie Reekie,

popular trends and given them an all-important

Riptinka’s handmade designs offer costume

Riptinka twist, ‘In my tribal range for Spring/

jewellery lovers with unique, quirky and high

Summer 2012 I managed to incorporate a lot of

quality pieces adorned with Swarovski elements

my signature style with the use of popular spikes

and genuine vintage components. Now three

whilst still keeping the range more commercial.’

years since the brand was founded, Riptinka is fast rising to success with plans for a US launch.

With Riptinka fast rising in profile, Katie has exciting plans for the future, ‘I have a large

After studying Fashion Design at Herriot Watt

project that has been bubbling under the surface

and working as an assistant buyer for footwear

for around a year now. I have been creating a

and jewellery companies such as Quiz, Katie

range which will be the first of its kind in the

decided to follow her instincts and launch her

UK. I’ve been bursting at the seams to show

own company. With expert knowledge on how

these samples but it is not long to wait now and

the market works Katie wanted to create designs

hopefully by mid-July l will be given the green

that were truly unique and distinctive, ‘I could

light to go into production. My newest venture

tell early on that I was on to something special.’

should open up a lot of doors for Riptinka and taking my brand to the US is something I can

Katie’s first designs took inspiration from see happening in the not so distant future.’ childhood nostalgia with a Barbie and fairy-tale

Returning to her original roots, Katie also hopes

inspired collections. The Barbie designs were

to add handmade womenswear to the Riptinka

particularly popular, ‘My initial range featured a

label in the future. The team at HADES cannot

lot of Barbie references and at the time there

wait to see Riptinka’s latest project and watch

were only a couple of sellers in the UK selling

Katie work her way to the top!

such styles.’ With an eye on emerging trends,

HADES

WELCOME TO...

DUBAI

HADES

BINT THANI Photography: Siobhan Stewart Model: Sula Powell @ Superior Make-up: Nikki McMillan Hair: Lorraine Powell Styling: Corrine McConnachie Words: Stephanie Boyle

ondon, Paris, New York and

now Dubai- another city that is

Inspired by the artistic and cultural

making its own trademark stamp

diversity found during her travels,

on the fashion world. Chic, trendy

Khulood created Bint Thani in

and of course girly; three words

2009 as a way of expressing

Khulood Thani uses to describe

her individual take on fashion.

her incredible collection. Though

Although her inspirations mainly

originally from the UAE, Khulood

come from fashion history, art and

studied at ESMOD in Paris before

movies, Khulood still takes the

moving to London and, as a result,

forever changing trend forecast

this burst of different cultures had

into consideration when creating

a profound impact on the image of

clothing. Each collection carries

her London Fashion Week featured

a theme and those themes each

brand ‘Bint Thani’

express a story. Her collections are where couture meets the

“Dubai,

very

dynamism of the high street to

encourages

create an incredibly strong identity

creativity. As a designer I have been

that comes with Bint Thani - an

exposed to the evolving scenes of

identity that is further expressed by

fashion, art and design in all three

Khulood’s description of a typical

cities which has contributed to the

Bint Thani customer:

cosmopolitan

city, and

way I think about fashion”

HADES

The Bint Thani girl is bubbly, playful yet innocent and, above all, chic. “The Bint Thani girl is bubbly,

look like colourful candies. The overall feel of the

playful yet innocent and, above all, chic. She is

piece is bold and very feminine.

effortless in her style and never over-dressed. She likes to be indulged in luxurious fabrics such

Bint Thani as a brand is incredibly fun,

as silk, chiffon and satin. She is sophisticated,

aesthetically stunning and what you could

enjoys travelling to enrich her knowledge and

call happy fashion. Khulood herself is a truly

adores arts and culture”

inspirational designer with a unique style and worldly knowledge of culture and the arts. She

Recently, Khulood has launched a collaboration

describes her contribution at London Fashion

piece with UAE-based jewellery designer Amal

Week as her greatest achievement so far and,

Haliq which merges their love for fashion and

in the future, she hopes to see Bint Thani as a

jewellery in one piece: a summer coat. On the

trendsetter in the world of fashion. With a strong

mood board, the designer describes everything

following and a host of new ideas, it is no wonder

as “sweet as candy” as the pastel colours; baby

that with designers like Khulood Thani, Dubai

pink, mint green and lemon yellow remind her of and the UAE are truly making their mark on the Parisian macaroons whereas the bolder shades

fashion map.

such as flash yellow, fuchsia and bright whites

HADES

WELCOME TO...

america

WESTERN TREND

Photography: Laura McKinnon Model: Samantha Davidson @ Colours Make-up: Rachel Newton Styling: Corrine McConnachie, Stephanic Boyle Special thanks to: Lisa Brewster and Gucci the horse Words: Stephanie Boyle

HADES

aloon doors creak as they swing in the

breeze, metal spurs spin on leather boots and a tumble weed blows across the sand. Who knew that fashion could take inspiration from the Wild West? It's not a replica of old spaghetti western movies but more a nod towards the ethereal wilderness of American style; a little less Calamity Jane but a little more Texan belle; think sexy gold rush.

In recent collections at fashion week, designers such as Scott Sternberg and Isabel Morant took inspiration from the Wild West with their use of capes, Navajo and suede. Kinder Aggugini channelled feminine styles with prints based on vintage Cowboy wallpaper and Thakoon Panichgul decorated bold western cuts with oriental fabric to create a collection where east meets west. In the July issue of UK Vogue, Karen Elson stars in Tom Craig's editorial â&#x20AC;&#x153;Don't Mess with Texasâ&#x20AC;? which sees the flame-haired model pose as part of a story that takes place in a sleepy Texan town at sunset.

HADES

We sat down with model and designer Emma Louise Connolly on set at the Hades photo shoot to talk about her graduate collection which fitted

The strong American fabrics of this collection

perfectly with the western inspired trend. The

inspired the more industrial scenes of the

mix of tan suede and black leather fringe detail

editorial; hay filled stables and rusty farm

made each piece stand out as a true statement

equipment posed as the perfect backdrop for

on its own but also made the pieces versatile

the cowboy inspired styling. To create a softer

enough to style with other items. Breaking away

image in the editorial, The Tolsta Ghost dress by

from the uniformed “pretty” image set by her

HandmadeInPartick was used to enhance a more

lecturers, Emma created designs that were a lot

feminine dynamic. Designer, Lorna Shields said,

edgier: “The tartan of the bodice came from left-over “It all started when we were looking at packaging;

fabric from my kilt and the muslin gives the

all the bows and frills were too girly for me so lightness and ethereality of a spectre. The I started playing around with the materials;

fabric is easily distressed and I thought taking a

weaving, pleating and fringing – that's where blowtorch to it would complete the look” the basic inspiration came from for my graduate collection”

HADES

riding

horseback across the desert, blowing in the wind...

the fabric

As there has always been a strong image of plaid

Whether it's the distressed makings of an all-

shirts on western styles, the tartan bodice made

American cowboy, or the whimsical styling of

a convincing statement in connection with the

a Southern Belle, it's this image of wilderness

theme. However, it was the muslin skirt that

and old American ways attached to the west that

created that striking image with the horse; it makes it such a popular trend in the world of conjures up images of riding horseback across

fashion.

the desert, the fabric blowing in the wind.

HADES

WELCOME TO...

London

GRADUATE FASHION WEEK Photography: Laura McKinnon Words: Corrine McConnachie

raduate

Fashion

Week

jacket that transformed into

who set the tone for the rest of

celebrated its 21st birthday

a suitcase HADES magazine

the show with her pop art, face

this year by showcasing the

really did see it all. It seemed

image designs. Acton’s colourful

finest talent from numerous

each university had its own

fringing

UK fashion courses. In recent

speciality such as knitwear or silhouettes, accessorised with

years Graduate Fashion week

print and Bath Spa University

and

hair

inspired

oversized hair clasps all added

has been considered one of was awarded the highest honour to her clever take on the theory the most influential events in of the week with student, Chloe

that

the annual fashion calendar as Jones winning the George Gold

Having impressed many, it was

it provides the British fashion

The establishments

no surprise when Acton was

equivalent to a crystal ball. which really inspired the team

awarded with the runner up

Award.

image

everything.

Since its opening year, when

at HADES with their catwalk prize for the prestigious Gold

Burberry’s Christopher Bailey

shows were the University of Award.

won the debut student of the

Central Lancashire, Newcastle’s

year award, GFW has provided

Northumbria University and Following on from Acton’s fun

a platform for some of Britain’s

De Montfort University.

pop art designs, Emma Guilfoyle

most influential designers from

used similar Andy Warhol style

Stella McCartney to Antonio Though Berardi.

the

University

of prints in her politically inspired

Central Lancashire showcased

collection.

Using

images

on the first day of the event, of former Prime Ministers, The event stretched over a three their memorable avant-garde

Margret Thatcher and Winston

day period beginning on June and highly impressive show was

Churchill,

10th and hosted 20 catwalk still being raved about at the

upon the current Thatcher-

shows,

ite trend in her use of pastel

than

1,000 end of the week after several of

students from 39 universities

its graduates won prizes at the

Guilfoyle

played

and tweed panelling, rosettes

and 20,000 visitors. From Gala closing show.

and statement 1980s power

jewellery

shoulders.

made

out

stationery, millinery designed

The UCLan catwalk opened

using back supports and a

with designs by Claire Acton,

HADES

the

UCLan

show

the

HADES

best designs were definitely

consensus of respect; I have yet

the use of bandanas, Hannah

saved for last. The incredible

to hear anyone utter criticism

captured

collection by Xiaoping (Fiona)

about the show or the university.

perfectly with a retro briefcase

Huang had those in the front

From the spectacular line up of

and

row staring open mouthed as graduate collections, Amelia

the

tourist

statement

style

sunglasses.

Her use of screen and digital

the photographers frantically Smith, Hannah Harrison and printing, dyes, foil and layering snapped

away,

determined

not to miss a single step taken

Gary Wilson were the students

gave the collection a quirky

who really stood out.

edge which was added to by a

down the catwalk. Xiaoping’s collection

took

the

term

slogan t-shirt- ‘my friend went Amelia

Smith’s

art

deco

on holiday and all she got me

thinking outside the box literally

collection delivered decadence,

with 3D accordion style pleated

class

trousers, which bounced as

Inspired by the architecture

Gary Wilson rounded up the

the models strode down the

Red

Northumbria show in style with

catwalk. Decorated with music

Square, the shapely dresses

bondage clad models depicting

and

Moscow’s

was this lousy t-shirt.’

femininity.

famous

sheet print and primary colours, were detailed with intricate futuristic these

elaborate

structures

femme-bots.

The

monochromatic patterns and black bobbed wigs and ripped

truly represented the jack in gold embellishments which, tights gave the collection, which the

box

theme.

Xiaoping’s

unique collection earned her

teamed with traditional fur

was about a confident woman

hats, created a strong and experiencing

breakdown,

the honourable Zandra Rhodes mature collection.

an all-important edge. The

Textiles award.

contrast

used

between

the

Hannah Harrison’s fun travel tight leather dresses with large Northumbria

University

inspired collection took us

gold zips and soft fabrics such

graduates stood out for their

far away from Amelia Smith’s as satin portrayed each stage

high fashion couture style,

Russian winter on an imaginary in the meltdown of a broken

attention to detail and edge.

journey

After

Asia. With a nod towards the

walking

Northumbria seemed

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out show

the there

around

South-East

woman perfectly.

recent Prada vintage Americana Last but not least in the handful

overall Spring/Summer campaign in of establishments

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that impressed was the highly regarded fashion

plastics, which created statement necklines and

school at De Montfort University. In the 2012 intricate cuff detail, looked stunning on the catwalk show graduates from De Montfort

catwalk.

were unsurpassed in their manipulation of unconventional materials.

Jade Clark’s bold menswear designs were definitely the most memorable from the De

Many of the De Montfort graduates made use

Montfort University catwalk show. The bondage

of knitwear; however one designer stood out in

style PVC masks and anarchic t-shirt slogans-

particular for the new, fun and quirky dimension

‘bad man’ and ‘sick’- provided a striking contrast

she brought to knitwear design. Kellie McGuiness

to the use of bright pastel colourings, glitter

combined knit and print in her colourful and

and googly eyed rucksacks, therefore, creating a

feminine knitted hold dresses. The innovative striking message about lost innocence. use of miniature photo frames to create necklaces gave the collection a more high fashion appeal.

The high standard on the catwalk at GFW 2012 had even industry veterans flabbergasted. It is

Charlotte Booty took the use of unconventional

difficult to predict who from the 2012 graduates

materials to the next level in weaving hundreds of

will become the next Christopher Bailey or Paul

cable ties into the dresses, Mac style jackets and

Smith but one thing is for sure, the future of the

even the shoes in her collection. The colourful

British fashion industry is in safe hands.

HADES

the lens Words: Stephanie Boyle

'm no photographer: I don't even have an expensive camera to pretend I'm a photographer.

You see, I'm merely a spectator, an admirer, if you like. As a writer, it is important to understand the craft of the written word but, arguably, it can be more important to understand the power of a great photograph.

I remember this one poster as a little girl, my

vintage swimming caps, it is said that their

great aunt had it in a frame above her dresser;

heads, aimed to resemble colourful round balls,

between two huge elephants, wild and flailing, were to be placed as a stark contrast against the stood a lady, delicate and graceful in a floor architectural form of the Egyptian pyramids. The length black gown, her hand on each animal. My

result was both a historical homage to ancient

aunt had worked as a nurse in India for a while

Egypt and a nod towards the fashion forward

and the elephants were always her favourite. The

culture of 1960s Europe. Fifty years on and the

photograph in question turned out to be Richard

allure of travel is as strong as ever.

Avedon's iconic 1955 poster “Dovima with the Elephants” the monochrome gown was Dior and

This year, Prada's Spring/Summer collection

the image was captured at the Cirque D'Hiver

brought back the glamour of the American road

in Paris. Despite being iconically Parisian, this

trip. It might not seem as foreign and mysterious

photograph has and always will remind me of

a concept as say, Mario Testino’s “High Plains

India. It is incredible how one image can make

Drifter” in UK Vogue but it has that retro vibe of

you travel to a different place, where in your head

the USA like Elvis in Viva Las Vegas. The prints

you can see, taste and smell the imaginary oasis

are made up of vintage cars, cherries and flames

around you. Throughout the history of fashion

– a mix of the boyish obsession with speed

photography, the power of stunning editorials

and the romanticism of American diners. The

have been enhanced by the allure of places far, far

advertorial tells the story of a road trip; it's all

away and deepened by man’s desire to travel and

scorching skies and cat-eye sunglasses meet with

discover the hidden corners of places unknown.

classic cuts and bright red lips. Not only does it encourage us to travel back in time, but also calls

One photographer who stands out for the use

to our inner adventurer taking to the open road

of travel in his work is F.C Gundlach, the most

and travelling down Route 66.

recognised German photographer of the postwar years. A particular editorial, which was

You do not need to be a photographer, you do

commissioned in 1966 for Brigitte magazine, not even need to have a great camera; but as a saw Gundlach travel to Egypt to shoot one of

spectator, a traveller and a dreamer it's more

the most recognisable series of photographs

than possible to become lost in a photograph

from his entire career. With the models in

and travel to wherever your mind may take you.

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WELCOME TO...

SWEDEN

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J EN NIE LööF

DESI G N Photography: Siobhan Stewart Model: Jennifer Gribben Make-up: Rachel Louise Words: Stephanie Boyle

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Jumping in puddles, running in the

rain and realising that you don't have to grow up is the

happy-go-lucky ethos behind the stunning collections of Swedish born designer

Lööf

. Looking at her designs, you become enraptured by the eclectic mix of

Jennie

modern cuts

with vintage fabrics- a combination that works incredibly well. We sit down with the designer herself to talk personal

style, sewing classes and future plans…

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When did you decide to start Jennie Lööf designs?

approach the design process. What has been your greatest My inspirations mainly come achievement

since

starting

It all started when I was very

from the people that are closest

your brand so far?

young, being the youngest of

to me; my family and friends.

I feel the biggest achievement

six, my clothes were all hand-

is still to come, however I am

me-downs. I wanted to look

Along

the

enjoying working with charities

different, but not that different

collection, do you have any

in Glasgow; Impact Arts and

so I started altering second

other projects going on at the

Starter Packs Glasgow. I teach

hand clothes and, from there,

moment?

sewing classes and doing this

built up towards making them

with a charity ensures that they

projects on the go. I recently

are accessible to everyone. And

launched my first diffusion

working with the kids from

So, you've always liked to have

line, ‘LOVELY’, made solely

Impact Arts is so rewarding.

an individual style but who,

from

would you say, is the 'Jennie

and I am currently designing

Finally, what do you hope to

Lööf' customer?

the costumes for the latest

achieve in the future for Jennie

Everyone and anyone who

Barrowlands Ballet production

Lööf?

likes to feel special, unique and

called ‘Dancing Voices’, which

This year I will be launching

quirky. My designs cater for all

will

the

my accessory line as well as

Merchant City Festival and in

my menswear line. Next year,

London this summer. On top of

I will showcase brand new

You're originally from Sweden,

this, I am also working on the

collections for all 4 lines: Jennie

has your heritage influenced

designs for my new accessory

Lööf, LOVELY, accessory line

your designs?

line that launches later this

– Spat-zera and the menswear

ages and types of characters.

Being Swedish does not necessarily

influence

designs but rather how I

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always

promoting

from scratch.

with

have

loads

contemporary

showcased

fabrics

summer as well as for all my collection. My plan is to have my

private orders.

the ready to wear ‘LOVELY’ line in shops around the world.

WELCOME TO...

PARIS

MALAM PARIS

Photographer: Laura McKinnon Make-up: Nikki McMillan Styling: Megan Flockhart Model: Lauren Haggarty @ Model Team, Iona Stoddart @ Superior, Amy Watson Words: Corrine McConnachie

The sun rises

on a crisp morning in Paris as merchants flee to a side street tucked

away in the corner of the city to set up their stalls for market. Beneath the bustle of early morning grumbles and the unfolding of tables a faint simultaneous clatter of footsteps can be heard as three girls appear in the distance, strolling down the cobble street hand in hand. The girls slowly pull into focus as if they are travelling forward in time. Dressed almost like Victorian porcelain dolls, they move through the eras and with each step a new chapter in the deeply woven history of Parisian fashion is told as a new colour, texture, print or layer can be spotted.

HADES

Founded in 2007 by Emmanuelle-Marie Remise, using lace, embroidery and unusual modern MALAM Paris embodies the ethereal stylishness

patterns to create charming dresses, petticoats

of traditional French fashion, from the birth

and modern blazers. Thanks to an extensive

of couture to the post war Christian Dior ‘New

supply of fabric coupons Marie became a self-

Look’. Using both vintage and contemporary confessed compulsive fabric buyer and managed customised materials to create a label for the

to collect an assortment of vintage materials,

self-confident

‘With too many fabrics and not enough room, I

romantic,

Emmanuelle-Marie

and MALAM Paris have gained fans in France decided to make dresses out of the fabric to sell. and the UK, ‘Vintage fabrics and trims hold After selling some dresses I decided I should so many stories. I love how, when mixed with

make petticoats because my first fitted dresses

contemporary design and a modern accessories,

were very short. This has become a habit and,

vintage material instantly adds edge to a

needless to say, I am now swimming in hundreds

garment.’

of yards of fabric at the workshop.’

After graduating from the EM Lyon Business

From what began as just a way to shift material

School, Marie decided it was time to pursue her

soon developed into the establishment of the

true passion and began a fashion design degree

MALAM Paris label and, inspired by fairy-tales

at the ESMOD Paris Fashion School in 2005.

and summers spent as a child in an old fashion castle that belonged to her great grandmother,

It was during her years at the ESMOD when

Marie created the Poupées Perdues (Lost Dolls)

Marie found the MALAM Paris signature style

collection.

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I would like to open a shop in PARIS and give new LIFE to my DESIGNS... With a unique style fusing romance and edge

After continuously building upon the Lost Dolls

MALAM Paris caught the attention of the LGN

collection, which is sold through the MALAM

Events group in London and Marie was invited

Paris online store, Marie sets her goals higher

to showcase the ever expanding Lost Dolls

with the development of a second ready to wear

collection at their Spring/Summer London collection, ‘As sales steadily increase I hope Fashion Week show in 2010 and 2011, ‘Preparing

to expand upon the brand and branch out into

a collection to showcase is a very interesting way menswear. I would like to open a shop in Paris of working. It is totally in contrast with what I

and give new life to my designs.’

do the rest of the year because, for runway, I try to give a homogeneous feel to the garments

With all eyes on them the girls glide past me,

shown. It is very exciting and rewarding to see

gripping a hold of one another and starring

the finished product.’

ahead with determination. As they turn around a new corner, it is clear that their journey with MALAM Paris has only just begun…

HADES

WELCOME TO...

america 93

HADES

PARMA VINTAGE Photography Laura McKinnon Make-up: Nikki McMillan Styling: Gillian Chalmers, Stephanie Boyle Model: Nicole McCubbin @ Superior, Iona Stoddart @ Superior Words: Stephanie Boyle Special Thanks: Gordon Leith, West End Cafe

HADES

he glamorous life of an air hostess is an ideal career but for Gillian Chalmers it was a mile high platform for the future. What started off as a simple obsession with thrift stores on her travels grew into Parma Vintage; a thriving business based in Gourock selling vintage fashion on a global scale. HADES magazine sat down with Gillian to talk all things vintage...

HADES

What first attracted you to the idea of opening

The internet has played a huge part in the

your own vintage clothing business?

success of Parma Vintage. We use our facebook

When I worked for Virgin airlines I would often

page to post real time updates to our customers;

pick up vintage pieces and sell them online sometimes we post an item on our page and it but I always wanted to open my own shop.

sells out the next day. Most of our sales are online

My favourite retro sweets are Parma violets so

too; last year we opened our ASOS Marketplace

in 2009, I set up shop in Gourock and Parma boutique and we have sold items all over the Vintage was born.

globe since. The blog feature is a great tool on ASOS because it allows people from all over to

What attracts you most to vintage fashion?

see what's going on with Team PV.

It's original, unique and has a quality that doesn't really exist anymore. Each piece has a

Who, would you say, is part of Team PV?

story behind it that's added to with every owner-

Team PV includes me, my staff and the

and I guess in a way it's also a form of recycling.

extended family of Parma Vintage. Anyone from our customers to our models and creative

What sets Parma Vintage apart from other

contributors are considered to be part of our

vintage outlets?

team.

The stock is a mixture of both new brands and vintage so we have a great mix of styles that

What do you hope to achieve in the future for

allow us to keep on top of seasonal trends. It's

Parma Vintage and Team PV?

important to cater for all of our customers.

At the moment we are working on rebranding PV and creating a real corporate image. Everything

How do you stay connected with your customers?

is going so well and I can't wait! In the future

Has the internet played an important role?

I'd like to have more Parma Vintage outlets, who knows? We may even go global!

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