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NVQ Level 3 Make-Up Style and Dress Long Hair
Candidate Name: ___________________
Hair & Beauty
INTRODUCTION This will enable you to develop your skills in creative styling and dressing long hair.
The basic techniques to practise are: Knots Twists Plaits Rolls Weaves Ornamentation
Curls Waves Blow drying Alternative setting Postiche
You will be able to create shapes using a combination of basic techniques to achieve designer looks for your clients. You will use conventional and non-conventional methods to achieve the style and consider the following looks to suit individual clients personalities. These looks will suit clients of all ages for special occasions such as evenings out, weddings, proms, balls and parties.
Looks are: Classic Current Emerging
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The physical effects on the hair when styling and using products Hair is made up of polypeptide chains that twist together to form hair as we know it. These chains are held together by strong disulphide bonds. Weak salt bonds help to hold the chains together and weak hydrogen bonds prevent the loops of polypeptide chain spirals from being stretched too far.
When hair is in its normal state - it is not stretched by styling. This state is known as the alpha-keratin state. When hair is stretched – as during setting or blow-drying, it becomes betakeratin. This is a physical change to the hair structure and therefore is a temporary change. If hair is wet and/or heated it is easier to stretch and it will stretch further than when it is dry. This is because the hydrogen bonds and some salt bonds are broken by the moisture or the heat so the ‘springs’ (the shape of the polypeptide chains) can be lengthened and the shape of the hair can be changed.
When hair is set or blow-dried it is stretched slightly by the rollers, fingers or by a brush. Because it is dried into this stretched position the broken hydrogen and salt bonds reform in a different pattern and will stay there until the hair becomes wet or affected by moisture or heat again. Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology Revision 1 Creative Studies/Hair and Beauty/08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26
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Hair becomes wet again: By absorbing atmospheric moisture By shampooing Being in a steamy bathroom Excessive scalp perspiration Being caught in the rain Being outside on a foggy day Being in a humid climate The hydrogen and salt bonds will go back to their normal pattern, Alpha-keratin, and the style will be lost. The use of styling and finishing products will help to protect the hair from these conditions and will assist in maintaining the style longer in the Beta keratin state. Styling Products contain a resin which leaves a film or sheath on the hair once it dries. This film helps to prevent atmospheric moisture from being absorbed by the hair thus preventing the hair from reverting back to its natural alpha state. Finishing products contain plasticizers which help to maintain the style. The physical effects of styling and finishing products on the hair are: Protection from humidity Conditioning action on the hair Holding the hair in place Enabling the style to last longer Heating and Cooling During the wet stretch and drying process of styling the hair becomes hot therefore it is important to allow the hair to cool down prior to dressing out. This can be done in a number of ways: by hitting the cool button periodically during blow drying letting set hair rest as it comes from under heat until it has cooled allowing heated styling equipment such as heated rollers sufficient time to cool before removing them from the hair not disturbing hair that has been tonged or crimped until it has cooled. Note: Cooling the hair allows the curl to harden in its new position for a longer lasting style.
Task: To help clarify your understanding, Discuss with a partner the physical effects of styling and product use on the hair structure and the importance of using products and cooling hair when styling.
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How the incorrect application of heat can affect the hair and scalp Hairdressers must be aware of the dangers involved in using and training staff to correctly use heated styling equipment. If care is not taken there is danger of: Damaging the cuticle Causing the hair to break Burning the scalp making it tight and sensitive Hair becomes scorched or singed Hair becomes dry and dehydrated Discolouring the hair – white or bleached hair becomes yellow, Afro-Caribbean hair will become reddish
Preparing the clients hair Before beginning to style a clients hair and using any equipment on the client you must have carried out a full consultation with the client to make sure you have the necessary equipment available to carry out an efficient service. Effective preparation makes it easier and quicker to achieve the desired look You will need to discuss with the client: The agreed look required Use of styling and finishing products Use of dressing products Ornamentation and added hair required
The following factors affect the styling, dressing and finish result of the hair by determining the size of styling tools and styling products used, the temperature of tools and the direction of the styled hair, the effect or finish you wish to achieve. Desired look or occasion for which the style is required Hair Out Hair growth patterns Hair elasticity Head, face shape and features Hair texture Hair length Hair density
Task Discuss each one with a partner giving examples of how you think the factors contribute to the consultation process.
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Preparing the hair for dressing up Some salons ask clients to shampoo their hair the night before a service to ensure the hair is clean and has had enough time to harden and become more manageable to dress up. If this is not the case you will need to prepare the hair in the salon. Freshly shampooed hair can be slippery and sometimes static making it difficult to work with so it is important that the appropriate preparations are made depending upon the techniques to be used. Technique
Preparation
Rolls, Twists, Curls
Setting or Blow-dry and tonging
Knots and Weaves
Blow dry
Plaits
Blow dry or wet hair
Styling Techniques Styling techniques
When
Why
Blow drying
Wet Hair
Soft smooth look
Pin curling & Finger waves
Wet Hair
Create waves or specific direction
Heated styling equipment
Dry Hair
A variety of looks
Setting
Wet hair
For increased volume and a firm hold
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Setting by winding on and off base (E4)
The diagrams show conventional setting methods, points to roots Picture 1 Winding on base - gives root movement creating maximum volume.
On base
Winding on base - dictates the direction the hair moves.
Off base
Picture 2 Winding off base - gives less root movement creating minimum volume Winding off base - gives maximum direction of hair movement.
Practice alternative setting methods from roots to points and use non-conventional items such as rickracks and bendys to achieve different looks.
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Tools and equipment Look at the range of tools and equipment available in your salon for styling, finishing and dressing hair and state how they are used.
Tools and equipment
How to use
Brushes, combs, clips etc
Rollers conventional and velcro Hairdryer & attachments
Curling tongs
Spiral hot rod
Straightners
Crimpers & wavers Covered elastic Grips Hair pins Combs Fine nets
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Products It is equally important that the correct products are chosen for the service. All styling and dressing products should be use economically to minimize the wastage of products in the salon. It is important to follow manufacturer’s instructions when using products in order to: To use products correctly To get the best results To be able to give the correct advice to clients You will need to have good knowledge of the products available in the salon to use when styling and dressing the client’s hair. Manufacturers may give different names to their products but they are all designed to achieve similar results on the hair. It is personal preference as to which manufacturer your salon uses. You will be familiar with these products and understand which ones will produce the best results on different hair types. Research the products your salon uses.
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PRODUCTS Follow this chart and complete by identifying products you use in the salon, state which are styling, dressing and finishing products and include manufacturers’ instructions.
Product
Sprays
Brand name Silhouette
MFI How to Use Fix finished style & lengthens life of style Help protect from atmospheric moisture Spray fine mist 10-20cms from the hair Protect eyes, do not inhale
Dressing cream
Oil
Wax
Gel
Lotion
Mousse
Activator
Moisturiser
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Securing long hair Long hair should be handled and controlled prior to and during the dressing process by brushing and detangling before and throughout the service to prevent damage to the hair and discomfort to the client. Long hair may have to be secured for a range of styles; at the end of a plait, at the roots for a roll, to secure knots, curls and twists. This can be done using a variety of techniques: Covered elastic Grips Hair pins Combs Fine nets Care must be taken not to damage the hair structure when using different securing materials and devices, unsuitable securing may cause: • • •
Fragilitis crinium (split ends) Damaged cuticles Trichorrhexis nodosa (swollen, broken hair shaft).
You must only secure long hair with covered bands or bands designed especially for this purpose. Do not use elastic bands as they will damage and break the hair. The start of many styles can be with the use of pony tails. One method of securing this is:
1. Knot a 24cm piece of covered elastic into a circle and attach a grip at each end. 2. Gather the mesh of hair in one hand after smoothing it with a brush or comb and with the other hand push one of the grips, flat to the Head, into the middle of the pony tail. 3. Ensure that the grip feels secure and then pull the elastic around the hair mesh by the second grip wrapping it over the top of the first grip until it will not go any further. 4. Slide the grip half way out of the elastic and the push the second grip into the underneath of the mesh of hair and secure. You may use this method of securing hair on any part of the head and as many times as is required. It should not damage the hair because it does not pull the hair when removing the elastic. You can see where this is used by Patrick Cameron in all of his books on long hair styles or on www.patrick-cameron.com This method of securing hair can also be used when adding a hair piece. Follow the directions for securing then add a row of overlapping grips in a circle around the elastic. Remove the elastic and spread the hair evenly this will provide a secure base to attach the hair piece to. You are now ready to dress the hair and the hair piece. Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology Revision 1 Creative Studies/Hair and Beauty/08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26
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POSTICHE (Added hair) Added hair postiche also comes in the form of: Pin curls - small meshes which can be added - different colours, straight or curly Ringlets - larger meshes Marteaux - flat, folded pieces of weft - attached by either combs or loops - useful for adding waves Switches - lengths of weft - twisted, coiled ,plaited or spiral Torsades - made from marteaux and switches - forms coils Swathes - made from marteaux and switches - encircle the head Chignons - rolls or knots - can be worn on the crown or nape Wefts – a curtain of hair that can be gripped or sewn in You will need to carry out research into other types of added hair from text books, web sites, trade magazines, trade shows and manufacturers. See some examples of added hair below.
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Ask
Dressing Long hair tools & equipment
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Ornamentation Ornamentation can be added to complete the look if required. Think of alternative types of ornamentation you might use and how to secure in the hair e.g.: Wood shavings, Christmas decorations, Chop sticks, Fans, Flowers, Beads, Buttons, Feathers, Ribbons ect It is important to ensure that ornamentation and none conventional styling items are suitable for use by checking that there are No sharp edges No Broken teeth No Broken clasps Not cracked or broken See some examples below:
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Backbrushing and backcombing Backbrushing
- gives more height and volume to the hair - brushing backwards from points to roots - roughens the cuticle of the hair to create volume - slightly tangles the hair binding together for a fuller shape - fullness dependant on amount back
brushed Backcombing
- uses a comb rather than a brush - backcomb from points to roots - provides support and volume - Roughens the cuticle to create volume - applied deeper towards the scalp - gives a stronger result
Both these methods provide a basis for creating a variety of effects eg: Rolls both vertical and horizontal, high and low knots, curls and sometimes as a base for added hair to be attached to. If incorrect methods of these techniques are used however damage of the hair will occur so care must be taken when back combing / brushing to avoid damaging the cuticle of the hair. Take care and always check that grips are not secured in a way that may cause discomfort to your client and also to damage the hair.
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Vertical Roll Backbrushing and backcombing are used when creating a pleat or roll. After smoothing over the backbrushing or backcombing spray with a fine mist of hairspray. Begin to secure with grips in a zigzag row. This will secure the hair more firmly. Mould hair into shape required and secure with grips and hair pins. Ensure you use the mirror throughout creating a style to check for the shape, balance, direction and volume required Vertical roll
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Curls Curls can be dressed up or down for a casual or a special occasion. Large smooth curls can be dressed on top of the head or at the back of the head. A range of curls can be achieved using a variety of media eg rollers, rickracks, chopstics, etc to create a smooth or funky look. To dress roll the hair around the fingers and work down to the roots to secure with pins alternatively work from roots to points and curl back. For your assessment needs you need to be able to style hair using conventional and none conventional methods. Try out a range of methods in your practical session and share your results with your team.
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Non-conventional styling: Hair is wound around chopsticks or rickracks and dried then gently pushed back with the fingers in a backcombing motion to create a wild frizzy finish.
Curls created by using a spiral technique on rods. Spiral curls are piled up on top of the head.
PLAITING A basic scalp plait can be enhanced by adding additional hair.
Divide the hair section onto three. Take the mesh of hair you are adding and lay 2/3 rd of the hair across the outside sections. Fold the remaining 1/3rd of added hair over the outside section. Plait the added hair into the plait and secure.
Plaiting is often a method used on special occasions and may be accompanied by Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology Revision 1 Creative Studies/Hair and Beauty/08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26
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ornamentation other than added hair: There are many options when plaiting: How many strands you are working with The number of plaits required Plait positions — around or across the head Over or under plaiting
You can see the three strand plait above but there are also 4 strand, 6 strand and 8 strand plaits if you are skilled enough to try them.
Fact It is important when dressing hair up to maintain tension. Irregular tension may cause the hair to sag or the style to become loose giving an unbalanced effect.
Perimeter plaitPerimeter plait Perimeter plait Cornrowing – A method of plaiting the hair to the scalp in small parallel sections individually secured with cotton and often beads. The hair must be worked close to the scalp to prevent sagging.
In this example corn rows are used creatively with curls to achieve a feminine look for a special occasion.
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Multiple 3 strand plaits The plaits can be maintained with: Braid sheen Scalp oils Hair oils Moisturisers These products will prevent the scalp from becoming dry
A fishtail style plait is achieved by plaiting the hair in the traditional scalp plait method whilst holding the strands away from the head.
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Twists Twists can be use in several ways, one way is to take fine pie shaped sections from the hair line to the crown and twist away from the hairline back towards the crown securing with grips and dressing the ends in creative ways.
Knots
Knots are created by taking postage stamp size sections of hair and twisting the hair away from the roots until it begins to curl back on its self. The tight twist can then be controlled by doubling back and wound around its base into a knot.
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A range of shapes can be achieved using the knotting method and incorporated into different styles combining other techniques. Here knots are arranged in a worm like pattern at the crown, the hair at the back of the head is twisted and dressed up leaving the ends of the hair out to create a funky look.
A combination of twists and knots Twists are arranged in a pie shape around the head and knotted at the crown leaving out the ends for a young fresh look.
Classic knots An alternative type of knotting is used here to create an elegant classic evening look. The hair at the nape is dressed into a roll, the front of the hair is arranged by taking fine strands of hair which are looped around and tied into loose knots then secured with fine pins.
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Weaving This is a method of interlacing strands of hair in a crisscross pattern to produce various effects on the head or on added hair pieces that can be attached or removed. Large and small areas of hair can be woven with dramatic effect at times. A simple method of this is to intertwine strands of hair from each side of the head weaving back to secure the hair off the face. Weaving is achieved by using no less than 3 sections of hair criss cross from the root working towards the ends of the hair. Now research and practice how to achieve a more intricate method of weaving called basket weave. It is a good idea to carry this out on a hair piece so it can be used again. Keep checking with your client throughout the styling and dressing process that you are achieving the correct style and that the look is the agreed look as discussed during the consultation. Attention must be paid to maintain correct tension when dressing up long hair and the methods of securing long hair styles as the client may keep the style in for a long time. Check client comfort at all times.
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Finger Waving Apply a strong setting gel to the section of hair which is being finger waved. Use a large tooth straight comb Comb the hair until the section is really smooth Using the comb and your fingers, start at the front hairline and comb to the crown Secure section with finger and comb back to the front hairline Lift the wave slightly between fingers and secure with pin/section clip For second wave comb back to crown and repeat back to front hairline forming another crest Continue with this movement until desired finger wave section is complete Finish loose ends with pincurls Place setting net avoiding disturbance to the waves Dry hair under the dryer When hair is dry remove clips Use a soft brush and brush into waves formed
Finger waves are used to mould the hair into an ‘S’ shape using the fingers and a comb. Dry waves can be created using the reverse pin curling technique. This creates a softer look see image 3. Ask your trainer for a demonstration.
1
2
3
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Pin Curls There are various types of pin curls, your tutor will demonstrate the following types: Stand up barrel curl Flat barrel curl Clock spring curl Anti-clock spring curl Reverse pin curl
Curl parts
Procedure Apply appropriate setting aids Always use small sections to enable the hair to dry quicker Mould the stem of the curl in the required direction of style Ensure that all the hair is smooth and secure the curl with a pin clip over it. Traditionally the curls are wound on wet hair from point to root however longer hair may benefit from a root to point technique on semi dry hair for a softer look, your trainer will show you how this can be done. Barrel curls For stand up barrel curls hold the section of hair up from the scalp and mould the hair together. Mould the hair to root and secure at the base with a clip. Barrel curls have an open centre and can replace setting rollers.
Flat-barrel curl Stand up barrel pin curl Clock spring curls For clock/anti-clock spring curls take a small section of hair and mould the ends of the hair. Mould back to the section base, using a small and tight diameter movement starting with the points in the centre and becoming wider on the outside of the curl towards the roots. Secure curl on its base with a pin clip. Gives a tight curl Clockspring curl Ensure that no pin clips are laying on the clients face, ears and nape, as they can get very hot and burn the skin. Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology Revision 1 Creative Studies/Hair and Beauty/08-09-0128 ND Level 3 Style and Dress Long Hair H26
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Traction alopecia Wearing hair up for long periods of time leads to constant pulling of the hair shaft this cause’s excessive tension at the scalp and pulling the hair too tightly causes the hair to be pulled out of the follicle. The potential consequences of excessive tension on the hair cause the first signs of Traction Alopecia. The first signs are: Discomfort Hair becomes dull Sensitive and sore scalp Raised Follicles Damaged follicles Hair becomes sparse and begins to recede Severe cases can produce hair loss and permanent baldness Even when hair has been plaited carefully an increase in tension occurs at the roots so do think ahead. The likely areas for this to appear are: hair line nape crown Traction alopecia can take a few months to several years to develop. If the hair is pulled excessively tight every day, then the condition is likely to appear very quickly. Fact Wearing hair up over a long period of time can lead to a sensitive dry scalp and can cause traction alopecia to occur
Web sites: http://www.hairboutique.com/tips/hairextensions.htm http://www.hair-styles.org/selecting.html http://www.instylemagazine.co.uk/instyleuk/video/behind/0,26965,20037242,00.html http://www.ukhairdressers.com/hair_move/index.asp
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-NOTES-
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